berlin January 15-16,
fashion week begins ... with Karlie ! plus:
achtland, arp, weber, ditto...and naomi!
I C H F Ü H L’ M I C H S C H Ö N M I T M AY B E L L I N E J A D E .
BERLIN FASHION MEETS NEW YORK COLORS.
OFFIZIELLER MAKE-UP-EXPERTE DER
FASHION WEEK BERLIN Maybelline Jade ist offizieller Make-up-Experte der Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin: Über 40 Designer. 800 Models. 720 Stunden Styling. OFFIZIELLER MAKE-UP-EXPERTE DER
WERDEN SIE ZUM FASHION-VICTIM! Hier noch mehr entdecken.
BFW’S BEST PARTIES! 1/15: Don’t Shoot The Messenger new store opening 1/15: Marni party at KaDeWe 1/15: Elle dinner at The Waldorf Astoria 1/16: Vogue and Mercedes-Benz host a party at Borchardt 1/16: The Eye Has to Travel book launch at Galeries Lafayette 1/17: Premium’s 10th anniversary party at U3 Metro Station 1/17: Hugo Boss party 1/17: GQ’s Best Dressed Cocktails at Das Stue 1/17: Burda Style Group party at Home Base Lounge
Fi x ‘Allo, Berleen!
front row Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Managing Editor Tangie Silva Berlin Editor Alonso Dominguez Editor At Large Christopher Tennant Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Senior Editor Maria Denardo Art Director Teresa Platt Photo Editor Catherine Gargan Production & Distribution Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialist George Maier
MISSING IN ACTION After repeated attempts and promises of an interview, Bonnie Strange went MIA on The Daily. We managed to speak to Heidi Klum, Beth Ditto, Karlie Kloss, Karolina Kurkova, and Naomi Campbell, but Bonnie was just too busy.
HAVE YOU SEEN ME?
I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE I AM!
Will Marc Jacobs be back in town to host Designer for Tomorrow winner Leandro Cano’s first solo show? Said so on the invite! ☛ Everyone’s buzzing about Escada skipping out on Berlin this season. A spokesperson tells us the brand is focused on opening a second Berlin outpost, another in Frankfurt, and ramping up e-commerce in time for spring. Busy, busy! ☛ Just asking! Why is Michalsky not listed on the Mercedes-Benz show calendar? ☛ Just asking, part deux: Will the early Tuesday start leave a lot of empty seats? ☛ Sightings Alert! Expect lots and lots of Wolfgang Joop this Fashion Week. Bidding adieu to Paris? ☛ LALA Berlin is hitting the tents again after taking July’s off to recharge ☛ And! Freshly acquired Marni boss Consuelo Castiglioni will be at KaDeWe to launch the brand’s first-ever fragrance....
THE DAILY BERLIN German Publishing Director Olaf Holzhäuser German Marketing Director Michaela Fischer Ad Sales Burda Community Network GmbH
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notable happenings on January 15th
THE DAILY Front Row
1913: Telephone service begins between Berlin and NYC 1929: Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. is born 1937: Japanese fashion designer Hiroko Koshino is born 1950: Prohibition goes into effect 1961: Motown Records signs Diana Ross and The Supremes 1994: Queen Elizabeth falls off her horse and breaks her left wrist
Louis A. Sarmiento Vice President, Publisher The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
A MOMENT WITH... MAXIME BALLESTEROS The tatted-up French expat has shot for German Interview and Purple Diary and manages to capture Berlin like nobody’s business... You’re engaged! When are you marrying Don’t Shoot The Messenger’s Jen Gilpin? September, in the south of France. How does a guy from France end up in Berlin? I went to Germany for nine months when I was younger and I liked the country. Then I went to Berlin for the holidays, took my car and moved here with a friend—I didn’t plan on staying! Now it’s been five years. What is your philosophy as a photographer? When I moved here, I was going out a lot and meeting a lot of people. I was very excited about everything and shooting everything. But five years later, I’ve changed and so has Berlin, so I’m shooting the FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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On the cover: Karlie Kloss in Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2012 Couture by Getty Images
evolution of Berlin. I’m just a spectator; I just look at what is happening. I go out on my bike or in my car and get lost in the city to see what is there. Anything can happen here… How many languages do you speak? Only French and English; my German is very bad. Does that make it tricky to live in Germany? It’s not that hard. Do you carry your camera around everywhere? All the time! Even just to get cigarettes or to the mailbox. How many cameras do you own? I use three for my work; there’s one
I use for jobs that I don’t like as much, and I have a lot of other ones that I don’t really use anymore. What are the tattoos of? Anything; it’s really random. I bought a tattoo machine when I was in Germany because I got really bored. I would be like, ‘Oh I want a snake,’ and my friends would do one on me. It’s very spontaneous! Do you have any tattooed regrets? No. What’s Fashion Week like for you? It’s very fun; I work a lot. I wake up in the morning and bike to the shows. I usually like to shoot backstage, then I have to do the catwalk. In the evenings, I go to parties, go home, and look at the photos. I sleep for an hour, and then do it again the next day. getty images (3); patrickmcmullan.com; Maxime: katja ebstein
GALERIES LAFAYETTE | FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 76-78 | 10117 BERLIN www.galerieslafayette.de | facebook.com/galerieslafayetteberlin
The Premium Decade
Schönes Jubiläum, Premium! The international tradeshow that flipped the Berlin fashion scene on its head is marking the big 1-0 with a slew of events, from happy hour on the terrace of the Premium Atelier, to a special 10th anniversary edition of the legendary Premium + Friends soirée. But first: Founders Anita Tillmann and Norbert Tillmann recount their top 10 moments along the way.
BY MARIA DENARDO
“We launched Premium in the tube system under Potsdamer Platz in January 2003. It was very Berlin. We thought of everything, from the atmosphere to the architecture, but not how to heat it. The designer from La Matina actually got frostbite on his face! The show was featured on the front page of one media outlet as ‘The Cool Premium.’ If you weren’t there, you probably didn’t get the headline.” —Norbert
“Our goal has always been to support young designers. That’s why every brand gets the same amount of square meters, and we curate the shows so an emerging brand might be next to Marc Jacobs. On top of that, we invented the Premium Young Designers Award in 2005. Retailers at the show look at the award as a stamp of approval.” —Norbert
“We kept growing in 2007, so we bought an old railway station from the 1900s that was used as a loading station for food. We call it Station-Berlin. When you look at the brick wall inside the building, you can see a face. It looks like a ghost taking care of us. We always talk to her.”—Anita
“We grew quickly with our tradeshow model combining men’s, women’s, and accessories into one show, so we erected a tent in 2004 in the former Wertheim property near Leipziger Platz dedicated exclusively to top international brands like Rena Lange. We called it Premium+. It was like glamorous camping.”—Anita
“We opened our first boutique in 2005 called F95 The Fashion Store at Frankfurter Allee 95 to show what a shop looks like when you mix established designers like DvF with young designers like MSGM. Now the space is 360-square-meters at StationBerlin.”—Norbert
“We expanded Premium to Düsseldorf and Munich in 2006. We presented more than 600 international brands and brought in 15,000 visitors. Then we hit the road to Russia for Red Moscow!”—Anita
“IMG teamed up with us in 2007 to create the first IMG-organized Fashion Week at the Brandenburg Gate. I have to say: Germany never had a real Fashion Week before that.”—Norbert
“It was pouring rain during our Premium + Friends party in 2010. There were about 2,000 people up to their knees in water! The next day we had a group of Japanese buyers hugging us, which was so unusual. They said, ‘That must have been what Woodstock felt like. Thank you for the best experience we’ve ever had!’”—Anita
10 NO, SERIOUSLY, WE’RE NOT MARRIED Norbert Tillmann and Anita Tillmann
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“In 2008 I married my husband, Ole, who coincidentally has the same last name as my business partner, Norbert. When people in the industry read I got married and changed my name to ‘Tillmann’ they sent Norbert and I flowers. They see us as the godfather and godmother of fashion in Germany. No matter how many times we correct them, they still think Norbert and I are married!”—Anita
“Station-Berlin received a major revamp in 2012. Hall 5 gained a new terrace, and we opened a new restaurant behind Hall 7. That left us room to dedicate Hall 4 to shoes and handbags, Hall 2 for jewelry, and the new ‘7th Heaven’ hall to avantgarde collections.” —Norbert
all c ourtesy p remium
It’s so much more beautiful than I could have ever imagined and it’s crazy to be somewhere with so much history. To see bullet holes on buildings shocked me. —Lily Aldridge
I went to high school in Frankfurt so I have a soft spot for the country. It’s so creative, innovative and right in the center of Europe. It’s right in the heart of everything. —Julianne Moore
I’ve been to Berlin for a job. I was shooting with Karl Lagerfeld outdoors on train rails. It was a super cool experience. I love that city and the people are very nice. I didn’t get to go out at all, though. Next time! —Constance Jablonski
Berlin has so much history and, at the same time, an amazing youthful energy. —Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa
The art scene is fantastic. I recently shot in Cologne on a Lars von Trier movie. I’m part German, too, so I’m partial. —Uma Thurman
The thing I love about Berlin is the way Berliners embrace decay. I love dancing in a club that’s a disused factory or seeing art in a place where aircraft used to land. That’s what I like about Berlin. —Alan Cumming
Berlin! But we’re hardly
We asked a few of our favorite international chicsters e ways …
to help us count th
It’s about my family. I have German in my blood! —Miranda Kerr
I haven’t been back since walking in the Hugo Boss show last year. I remember I had a great pretzel! —Karlie Kloss
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
We have so many talented designers that deserve to become household names. Hopefully, Berlin Fashion Week will open more doors for them so they are recognized on a worldwide stage. —Heidi Klum
I remember when I went there and the wall was down…on the east side? Which side was it? I always get confused. I think it was the east side. There was one side where you really felt like you were in Europe and very modern, and there was one side that wasn’t. I actually like the side that was older. I launched a few of my perfumes there and I have always enjoyed myself. Oh, and I have a magazine there. —Naomi Campbell
I love Berlin because it’s really green. The countryside outside of Berlin is amazingly beautiful, too. If you live there, you can consider yourself lucky. —Doutzen Kroes
g e tt y i mag e s
Fall / Winter 2013/14
JANUARY 15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17, 2013
StAtioN-BeRliN luckenwalder Str. 4-6, 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com
best moments You are fearless! A mad, wild, bold fashion city where the weird and the wonderful collide. With truest talent and an eye for the theatrical, you never fail to deliver. Six years in, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve most certainly earned your cred. But we hope youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never be afraid to let your hair down, you schick schick thing.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
g e t t y i m ag e s
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moments Who said fashion had to be so self-serious? Gritty, gorgeous Berlin, you always deliver the magic (with a side of raw wit.) The cheeky lace at Dawid Tomaszewski and hairy cheeks at Patrick Mohr...pure genius! The blooming beauties in bikinis at Michalsky’s Stylenite and the flower crowns at Lena Hoschek? Simply unforgettable. Your wicked sense of fun has lured in the major models (Agyness, Irina, Karolina, oh my!) and fashion’s royals (Mario, Marc, Vivienne, and Wolfgang, to name but a few.) Oh, and did we mention the clothes? We can’t wait to see how you titillate us in 2013.
g e t t y i m ag e s
She’s fashion’s top girl, booking major campaigns and shooting with the big guns. Where else would she be this week? Karlie Kloss took time out of her jam-packed schedule to dish on her heavenly new gig and how she plans to spend her time in Berlin. BY EDDIE ROCHE
Have you been brushing up on your German? One of my best friends, Toni Garrn, is German and she has been teaching me a word or two. I can say ‘doch’ and ‘auf wiedersehen.’ I am looking forward to being there. Over the summer I was in Hamburg for almost a week with Toni. German is a very complicated language. I don’t think I will be learning it before my trip. What brings you to town? I am the new face of the Mercedes-Benz campaign and I am very excited to do the launch of the video and the campaign and to see it really for the first time. Other people from the team are going to be there and I am looking forward to that, too. I won’t be walking in any shows. This will be the first time I’ll be participating in a Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week where I’ll be off the runway as opposed to on it. I’ll be on the other side of the stage; it’s going to be exciting. Congrats on being signed as a Victoria’s Secret angel! It is a very big honor! Growing up in St. Louis, Missouri that brand has such a huge influence. Worldwide these angels are known as these incredibly strong, beautiful, powerful, sexy women and I think that to embody that and to be a face of that brand is a huge honor. It is a serious undertaking putting on those wings but I am excited. You’re everywhere these days. How does it feel to always be so busy? It is kind of overwhelming at times but it is really keeps life interesting. My sister is with me in New York and has moved in with me and it has been really very
When were you last in the city? The first and only time was last year at this time for Berlin Fashion Week. I did the Hugo Boss show and I remember it was so beautiful. It was freezing cold. But I’m excited to go back for a little bit longer and hopefully stay and have time to see a little bit more. When I went last time I got the express tour. I made my driver take the long way around the city and point out the Berlin Wall, and where the parliament was, and where the museums and beautiful churches are. I ran around the city with my iPhone and just jumped out and took a picture of I don’t even know what. So I’m looking forward to getting to know the city. Is Kloss a German name by any chance? Kloss is Danish but it has a German meaning, I think ‘dumpling.’ I think for a long time if you Googled Kloss a dumpling came up, and finally I am beating out the dumpling. I am very proud of that. I think it is a donut or dumpling or something.
head of the
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helpful to have the support of her and my family who live not too far away. And even though things are busy I feel like I have only been able to do it because of the support team around me and my family. There’s never a dull moment that’s for sure. Are you still filming MTV’s House of Style? Right now is the break! The season wrapped before the end of the year and we are going to start filming at the beginning of February before the shows start. We are brainstorming ideas and getting things together for the upcoming season. Who is on your bucket list of people to interview? Joan (Smalls) and I each have individual people that are on our bucket list. Of course the icons, Karl Lagerfeld and these names that Joan and I have had the pleasure of working with like editors, designers, other models but also young talent. I’d really like to highlight Anthony Vaccarello this season. Have you interviewed Christy Turlington yet? I have not! That is definitely on my bucket list both personally and professionally. I would love to interview her for the show, but I would also like to have a conversation with her just as a big fan. Cindy Crawford as well! Joan and I have to take House of Style back to its roots. Would you ever want a furniture line like Cindy? Definitely! I don’t know if it would be furniture or makeup but the whole concept of using this career as an opportunity or a platform to go into developing bigger projects is appealing. I want to use this platform as a way to do anything. The possibilities are endless, whether it’s furniture or makeup or cookies, it doesn’t
matter. That’s what I love about my job. I meet people from all ends of the spectrum, from all different fields. Every industry is in a way tied to the fashion industry. Mercedes-Benz is one of the most luxurious classic car brands known around the world, but yet they put on Fashion Weeks around the world. You have your own brand of cookies! It’s my little love. I am obsessed with Karlie’s Kookies and we have been able to do so much with the project in such a short amount of time. I think we just passed 40,000-plus meals that have been donated for school lunches for kids around the world and for New Yorkers affected by Hurricane Sandy. It’s been a good little project and we have big plans for it. Do you still want to attend Harvard someday? I will fit it in. That is the great thing: I‘m 20-years-old! I feel fortunate to have an incredible career and experiences behind me but there is so much more that I want to do with this career and with my life. Harvard at some point is in the plan, but all in good time. What do you want to major in? I’m interested in so many things. I’m not really sure what specific field I would want to focus on. I have always had an interest in medicine; my father is an emergency room doctor. Now that I am getting more and more involved in these entrepreneurial projects I think business is something that would also be fascinating. To have a better understanding of economics and business, and the way to run a successful company. Tyra [Banks] did it. She went to Harvard business school. I can do it, too.
GeKsy E S S LER p o r t r a i t: t h e pau l g r e e n . c o m ; s t o r e : a l l c oGuRE rt
Design duo Thomas Bentz and Oliver Lühr packed their bags two years ago from the U.K. and headed to Berlin to launch their own label. Today, they’ve got Christiane Arp as a mentor and are part of the Vogue Salon. How’d they make it so quickly? We had to ask! BY EDDIE ROCHE PORTRAIT BY KATJA EBSTEIN FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Are you guys a couple? Oliver: Yes! We’ve been living together for five years and working together for a year-and-a-half on the brand. Thomas: But we had been thinking about doing the brand for a very long time. The product was always there. We knew it was going to be about fashion, but we weren’t sure about the time frame. We always thought we’d attempt this much later in life. It came to a point where we knew we had to do it now. So you moved to Berlin? Thomas: We’d been living in London for a long time and both felt that we were getting a little too comfortable. We thought we needed to shake things up. Berlin seemed much less comfortable than London. It’s not as pretty. It’s very brutal, in a way, in its architecture and everything else. It was a very intuitive decision. It just came to us one Saturday. Oliver: There’s so much less space in London. German society is always looking for something new and that’s the opposite of what we found living in London. The need for mental and physical space made us come to Berlin. You’re probably saving a few bucks, too! Thomas: Absolutely. In London every project is about the money. In Berlin the idea comes first and then the budget. That might be a good thing or it might be a bad thing, but for us it was very attractive. You guys are clearly on a roll lately… Thomas: Fingers crossed! We’re going to Paris this year for the first time to show the collection. We’ve been showing in Berlin, but we’ll be in a showroom there to talk to international buyers. How did you get into the Vogue Salon? Thomas: We had a presentation of our first collection in a hotel room at the Hotel De Rome and invited the Vogue team and the first person to come in was a fashion assistant. He liked the collection and then brought in his colleague who was a features writer. The next morning we were getting ready for a private appointment and Vogue called and said they were downstairs and wanted to come up with the fashion editor, who then came up with Christiane Arp. After she looked at the collection, she asked us to be a part of the Vogue Salon that day. It was very surreal. Wow! Oliver: We felt very privileged. Christiane liking our collection was very encouraging and quite a compliment. It still is. Thomas: She’s been a very passionate supporter of
all the people she’s mentoring through the Vogue Salon. It’s remarkable to see what that’s done for our reputation and quite frankly to our confidence. Oliver, You’ve worked at Balenciaga and Chloé, but started out as an intern for Phillip Treacy… Oliver: That was fun! I did a millinery course before I started and I always wanted to learn a different craft and I thought millinery was the way to go. It was quite inspiring because at the time he was a total idol for me. Did you get to work closely with him? Oliver: Not at all. He worked on the couture hats and I worked on a smaller team. I don’t know how it works now, but our workroom was a cave of feathers. Pink, pheasant feathers, there was material everywhere. Selfridges in London actually did a mock up of the workshop at the time in their window. It really captured what it looked like. It was quite fun being surrounded by pink feathers. Thomas, your background is a little different. You interned at Jil Sander in the PR department. I did. That was almost 11 years ago. Jil had just left for the first time and Milan Vukmirovic was the designer. It was my only run in with fashion for a very long time. I went to university after that and got a political and business degree. You studied Middle Eastern politics! Any common thread between that and fashion? Thomas: They are both complicated. I enjoyed working in politics. There is a fundamental difference that I was craving for before fashion. When you do something like that you don’t get to produce something, you don’t get to hold on to a finished product in your hands. In fashion you can hold something and appreciate it. I like that about this process. What are your exact roles? Thomas: At the start of the collection when we hunt for fabrics, we collaborate very closely and then there comes a time at the beginning of the process where Oliver lays the ground work for the new collection. In the meantime, I take care of PR, marketing, and sales. Basically anything. We’re now at a point where we’re both doing each other’s work. You’ll find pieces in the collection where I didn’t have much input in and other pieces where you can definitely see my influence. Olivier: It’s good for me as a creative to have somebody to bounce off ideas with who, shares the same taste and value of quality. The design work like the drawing is what I do, but the other decisions like the color, the fabric, the
combinations of details is something we essentially do together. Are you around each other 24/7? Thomas: Yes! The only thing we don’t do together is drive to work. We live together and work together in the same room, but it’s turned out to be very healthy to have 10 minutes apart every morning. It sounds crazy, but it does make a difference to us. Do you listen to music in the car? Oliver: I listen to BBC World. It sounds really nerdy, but it’s fabulous! I sometimes can’t get out of my car. What designers are you buddies with in Berlin? Thomas: There’s a nice sense of community among the Berlin designers. We’re pretty new to the scene and the city so the people we’re buddies with are mostly from the Vogue Salon. There’s a nice sense of camaraderie among them. It feels like the scene is still developing and there’s no sense of rivalry or competition. Who are your inspirations? Thomas: We like Erdem. Not only do we like his style, but all of his stuff is very recognizable. Proenza Schouler has done an amazing job. They represent a very down to earth, but sophisticated approach to design and how to run a business. Oliver: I have friends who went to school with Erdem and he’s apparently one of the nicest guys in fashion which is good, because you need that in fashion, right? As relative newbies in town, do you go clubbing? Thomas: The only nightlife we participate in takes place in our studio. We’re slaves to our own work at the moment. That famous side of Berlin is lacking in our lives. Oliver: We’re not so much slaves to the rhythm of Berlin, as slaves to fashion. Do you cook? Thomas: Absolutely! We rediscovered cooking in Berlin. We’re currently into things like roasting ducks and deer. Who’s the better cook? Oliver: Thomas! I’m very bad at it, but I love doing it. Thomas is very good at it, but he doesn’t love it. Working together is brilliant, but cooking together in the kitchen can be a bit tricky. Thomas: It’s one of the few things we physically can’t do together!
ACHTLAND IS A STATE OF MIND … Or maybe it’s a person? Or a place? Or a Celtic queen of some sort? Even they don’t sound so sure. Thomas explains … “There was a mythical Celtic queen who was dissatisfied with the choice of men available to her so she choose to leave her earthly life behind and married a god to become a godess herself. As for the name, there is a certain ambiguity to the name. It sounds German, but it’s not. It doesn’t really signify what it stands for. Is it a person? Is it a place? We like that there is a story to discover behind it. It possibly contradicts what the brand stands for.” c o u r t e s y ACHTLAN D p o r t r a i t: t h e pau l g r e e n . c o m ; s t o r e : a l l c o u r t e s y
the world according to arp Enough about Anna! In her decade-long reign atop the German media scene, Vogue editrix Christiane Arp has proven herself an able diplomat, engaging muse, and cerebral fashion soothsayer. The Daily sat down with BFWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s benign dictator to find out what fuels herâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and the one thing that could make her abdicate. BY EDDIE ROCHE
FAFA SH OIN E EEK LIY. CO SIH OW NW ED KA DIA L Y. CM OM
How did you end up where you are today? The lottery. [Laughs] You’re funny! Thanks. You can use that. So you want me to tell you how I got here? I studied fashion design in Hamburg, but before I went to university I started working as a trainee at a special-interest magazine, Nicole, that folded in 1988. I worked there for eight years. I knew I would never be a great fashion designer, but I could manage to become a fashion editor. After it closed, I was hired by Brigitte. After a couple of months they started Viva magazine, and I worked there and then I was hired by Amica as fashion director. After a couple of years, I left in 2000 and had an offer to join Stern and before I even started I got the offer for Vogue, but I’m from the north of Germany and a handshake is a contract so I couldn’t do it. I did Stern for a year and then joined Condé Nast as the deputy editor in chief of Vogue and then nearly 10 years ago, I became the editor. Was Vogue your dream job? It would have been on my secret wish list, yes. I don’t know whether I didn’t allow myself, or if I could just never imagine becoming the editor in chief of Vogue. After a decade it’s something that I think, ‘Hey, I managed 10 years! Can you believe it?’ Why do you think you’ve lasted so long? It’s very important when you’re the EIC that you don’t lose your passion. I’m totally emotional, and I can get on everybody’s nerves with that. I wouldn’t stop with how I want it or what I think is right. That’s a good driver. I still don’t think I’ve done my best issue yet. What would be in your best issue? When I did the 30th anniversary and had the opportunity to work with legends like Bruce Weber, Peter Lindbergh and Karl [Lagerfeld], I thought that would maybe be my best issue. But there’s a saying that if it’s the best than you should stop. So I thought, ‘No, I can’t stop like this! I have to go on.’ How is German Vogue different from other Vogues? The first years when I was here, I had my doubts whether I would ever be a good EIC. There was a time when I didn’t look at any other fashion magazines for six months to develop my own voice. When you look at other magazines you are so easily influenced. We look at pictures all the time and it does something to you when you see a picture that you like or that you don’t like. It interferes with your judgment for the next few moments, the next hour. You question yourself about whether you should do something like that as well. I wanted to do something that was German Vogue; that you can
judge even if you don’t see the logo or read the writing. I wanted something that had its own identity. In our country we love fashion, but we are not a fashion country number one. We don’t live in Paris, New York, London or Milan. In our country design is really important, travel is really important, art is incredibly important. What international versions of Vogue do you read? I have them all in front of me. They are displayed in my office on a shelf like a bookstore. I look at all of them. Have you ever thought about moving to America? No. Everybody knows that I love New York and I have to go there all the time, but I think mother tongue is so important to express yourself. I can express myself best in German. Do you consider yourself a visual editor or are you more of a wordsmith? I love the right word with the right picture. Together they are the strongest couple. Of course I can see a picture and see that it’s a fantastic picture, but then when you read the headline and it fits perfectly, it makes the picture better. I see everything as I edit the magazine. What kind of boss are you? I want to be everybody’s darling, but I know that I’m not. At a certain point, you have to make the decision and sometimes you don’t like a fashion story that comes in. I would never run something that I don’t like. I sometimes make decisions that people don’t like, but I had a sign on my door that said, “You leave democracy and enter my monarchy.” What’s a common misunderstanding
Who’s your Grace Coddington? I have somebody who wants to be like Grace. It’s Nicola Knels. She read a very touching editor’s letter about Grace in the US version of Vogue. She liked it so much that she said she wants to be my Grace. Do you and Anna ever talk? Not often. We won’t pick up the phone and just have a chat, but when we see each other, we talk. We have official and unofficial meetings where all the editors in chiefs sit together. That’s made the relationships better over the years. I’m sure you’ve seen the picture of all of us together in Tokyo. That was not done in PhotoShop. We were all there! Is there any editor that you’d like to switch places for a day with? There’s a magazine that I love, World of Interiors. I’d love to go to those offices for a week. I go through it page-by-page. How did the Vogue Salon come about? I came up with the idea. There was a certain time where we could see that Fashion Week in Berlin had developed in the right direction. We saw more and more young talents and more people were coming, but there was still so much press that was against Fashion Week in Berlin. I couldn’t just tell everybody that it gets better and better. I had to do something. What do you think of the state of fashion right now? We’re talking less and less about trends and more about the right clothes or the wrong clothes, which I like. Trend isn’t a real modern word. I like the idea that a woman chooses clothes that she really wants to have and not just wearing them because it’s a trend.
about being a Vogue EIC? In The September Issue, Anna [Wintour] said it best: It’s not about the red carpet, it’s really hard work. Red carpets and beautiful dresses are wonderful once in a while, but that’s not the first thing on our daily list that we have to do. People have a misunderstanding that we’re performing in a kind of fashion theatre, but we’re more backstage.
What would you like for Berlin Fashion Week? I’d love to have more people come and look at our young talents. Sometimes there is a young talent out there who isn’t ready for their own collection but could be ready to be the assistant of a designer. Not everybody is an entrepreneur and our designers have to be these days.
“I had a sign on my door that said, ‘You leave democracy and enter my monarchy.’”
G E T T Y I M AG E S ; C O U R T E S Y VO G U E G E R M A N Y
What time do you wake up? If I work out, 6 a.m. If not, 7:30. What’s the first thing you see? My phone. Then the view of a neighboring building’s water tower. What’s the first sound you hear? I actually wake up naturally. When do you pick out an outfit? After I’ve showered in the morning. It’s spontaneous. What do you eat for breakfast? An iced coffee and a banana. How do you take your coffee? Unsweetened and black, from Pret a Manger. How do you get to work? I normally take the subway. But if I’m late, I hop in a taxi, which ironically always takes longer. How many emails do you get before 10 a.m.? Probably between 20 and 30. Who do you respond to immediately? Everybody! Well, not generic or spam emails, but everyone else. I try to stick with a policy that if I’ve opened and read an email, I have to deal with it right away. If I know I can’t respond, delegate, or delete, I don’t open it. What time do you have lunch? If I have a lunch appointment, once or twice weekly, around 1 p.m. If not, the day rolls by until my assistant emails me about lunch, between 2 and 4 p.m. What do you eat? A Diet Coke at lunch meetings; a vegan salad at Pret A Manger if I’m alone. Who do you eat with most often? Fashion PRs, or friends of the magazine. How many meetings do you have each day? Anywhere between 10 and 15. What’s your assistant’s name? Brooke, with an ‘e’ at the end. How would you describe your relationship with your assistant? Codependent! Do you ever go into the InStyle beauty closet? I don’t hang out there—nobody really hangs out there, since it’s basically under lock and key, and it’s kept very organized. Once in a while, I’ll ask Brooke to grab me a tweezer or moisturizer from the beauty closet. How many reader letters do you read in an average day? Between 20 and 40. One of the first FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
things I do each morning is read a red folder full of reader letters that Brooke prints out for me. We also get a lot of mail from high school and college students who want to learn about the publishing industry. What’s your favorite cover? Gwen Stefani, on the November 2011 cover. What was your biggest seller? The March 2008 issue, with Eva Longoria on the cover. It sold 889,000 copies. What time do you leave the office? I don’t get out of here until 7 or 7:30 p.m. Most nights, I leave here to go to an event, like a screening, cocktails, or something, and then a dinner. I rarely eat dinner before 8:30 p.m. What time do you go to bed? Not before midnight. Have you ever done a juice cleanse? I’ve done a few of them. I’ve enjoyed doing cleanses; I like a challenge! What’s your night cap? I’m a Sancerre guy, and in the winter I like a Dark and Stormy. Do you watch reality TV? I watch all of The Real Housewives. I’ll watch anything on OWN, and I’m obsessed now with this new TLC show, Neat Freaks. Oh, and Cougar Wives! How often do you tune in? I don’t have time to watch TV every night, but one night each week I’ll watch a bunch of stuff. How’s your German? Nil! Actually, my father speaks Yiddish, as did my grandparents, who’ve passed away. There’s a lot of overlap between Yiddish and German, so I can understand every third word when I hear German friends speak the language. But I can’t piece together everything. What’s it like to oversee German InStyle? One of my monthly highlights is seeing the new international editions before they go to press. It’s fun to see which words are used on German covers. They wouldn’t seem strange to a German person, but to me they look so animated. The covers are sent with translations, thank God. My art director always asks me to use shorter words on our covers; I can’t imagine what it’s like to be a German art director! Where did you go to college? I went to Harvard. What’s your Zodiac sign? Aquarius. I feel like we’re dating right now…that you’re going to set a profile for me on, like, German OK Cupid. Do you follow astrology? Absolutely! But only Susan Miller. I check every day. She’s usually right. What’s your nickname? People call me ‘Foxy.’ What designers are in your closet? Tom Ford and Dries Van Noten. When were you last in Berlin? Six or seven years ago. Are you on Twitter? Yes, of course! I live on Twitter.
If I work out, I’m up at 6 a.m. If not, 7:30.
Two InStyle Editors,
Two Very Different Days
An Ar di
In the morning I don’t do makeup or my hair. I just rush to my wardrobe.
Annette runs German InStyle; Ariel helms the U.S. edition. How different could their lives be? BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV & EDDIE ROCHE
What time do you wake up? 6:00 a.m. What’s the first thing you see? Either my son or one of my boyfriends. How many boyfriends do you have? At the moment, one. What’s the first sound you hear? Horns! It’s awful. I’m awake in a flash. When do you pick out an outfit? In the morning I don’t do makeup or my hair. I just rush to my wardrobe. What do you eat for breakfast? Hot full-fat milk, toast, and an apple. How do you take your coffee? Sometimes I have a spoonful of instant coffee in hot milk. How do you get to work? I have a BMW X5. How many emails do you get before 10 a.m.? No emails at all. I hate email. I have three secretaries and they take all the email for me. I hate, hate, hate email. I am on Facebook, but I only check it once a week. If something is really important, you call or meet someone. And I hate the cc! Millions of emails that aren’t of any interest, just because people want to make sure everyone is informed. My secretaries tell me what is important. What time do you have lunch? 1 p.m. What do you eat? I normally go out and have business meetings. I go to an Italian espresso place. I usually eat potatoes, white cheese, and vegetables. Who do you eat with most often? I go with my deputy editor, Marianne. How many meetings do you have each day? I have a lot! At least five. What are your secretaries’ names? Ute, Natalie, and Irene. They call me Mrs. Weber; I call them by their first names. How would you describe your relationship with your assistants? Very good; professional. I rely totally on them. They organize my life. Do you ever go into the InStyle beauty closet? No! How many reader letters do you read a day? It depends on the subject. Certain topics receive a lot of mail. Do you write back? If people write me, I write them back. I’m a great fan of hand-written letters. What’s your favorite cover? It’s always the last one. What’s your best seller? Our 10th anniversary issue. We wrapped it with red foil. It sold more than 520,000 copies, which in Germany is a record. What time do you leave the office? 6 p.m., sharp, to be with my son. I make sure he does his school work. In Germany, we love to have business meetings in the evening; normally, we start at 8 p.m.
What time do you go to bed? I want to be in bed no later than 11:30 p.m. because I wake up so early. Have you ever done a juice cleanse? No. What’s your night cap? I go out a lot during the week. I’m such a party animal. I start with champagne, but the later it gets I have vodka and cranberries; at the end of the night, I drink beer. The business meetings are very, very boring, so I have to go out afterwards with my fan club. Your fan club? Please explain. Some of my boyfriends. Do you watch reality TV? No. I have a problem with TV. I sometimes watch the news, though. How’s your English? Bad! It should be better, but there is no time to improve that. My daily routine is a nightmare. I couldn’t take lessons. Where did you go to college? I went to a little school in Germany’s second oldest city, in the middle of nowhere. What’s your Zodiac sign? Pisces. Do you follow astrology? Not at all. What’s your nickname? Netti. It means that I’m a nice girl. What designers are in your closet? My uniform is jeans from Closed, silk blouses from Rena Lange, a lot of Prada and Christian Louboutin shoes. Also, I wear a lot of Akris and I love Cavalli. When were you last in NYC? September. Are you on Twitter? No. Why not? I’m not too into that electronic thing. I’m so old school. Do you know Ariel Foxman? Of course I know him! Ariel is also the director of the international InStyle. He’s also my partner. He gives approval for all of my covers and coverlines. He’s very good looking! He’s very precise, intelligent; he knows exactly what he wants and what he doesn’t want. He’s a very good editor! Also, he has the most beautiful skin I’ve ever seen. Every woman envies him for his skin! It’s amazing. Maybe he can tell me who his dermatologist is.
FOX M A N : G I O R G I O N I R O ; W E B E R : C O U R T E S Y G O R A N G A J A N I N / T M & (C) T U R N E R B R OA D C A S T I N G S Y S T E M
Gossiping! o t t i D h t e B With
Germany loves her! And The Gossipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beth Ditto canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get enough of you, either. The Daily rang up the opinionated popster and memoir-ix (she recently wrote Coal to Diamond) in her hometown of Portland, Oregon to get a slice of delicious dish before Fashion Week. BY EDDIE ROCHE
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
goes there? A highly discriminating guide to the city’s chicest party spots!
Rockin’ at the Asphalt
Name: Tausend Address: Schiffbauerdamm 11, 10117 WEB sITE: TausendBerlin.com
Name: Berghain Address: Am Wriezener Bahnhof, 10243
DOORMAN’S NAME: N/A (It’s members only.) SMOKING POLICY: Liberal AVG. WASHROOM WAIT TIME: 2 mins. WASHROOM CLEANLINESS: 10 out of 10 HOUSE DRINK: Bottle service—it’s one of the few places you can get it in Berlin PLAY LIST: Ecclectic DON’T WEAR: Sneakers DO WEAR: Prada SMELLS LIKE: Gasoline DECOR: Sleek and vaguely tunnel-like, by Berlin-based designer Robert Neun FEELS LIKE YOU’RE IN: New York’s Meatpacking District LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL MEET SOMEONE WORTH SLEEPING WITH: 80% LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL REGRET IT LATER: Naomi Campbell 55% CHANCE OF FINDING LOVE: 10% IF IT WAS A CELEBRITY IT WOULD BE: Naomi Campbell IF IT WAS A MOVIE: Eyes Wide Shut EXPECT TO PAY: 10 Euros at the door; 10 Euros per cocktail
DOORMAN’S NAME: Sven Marquardt NAME TO DROP: Nobody’s, or you’ll be turned away EXCLUSIVITY RATING: 3 out of 10 SMOKING POLICY: Liberal AVG. WASHROOM WAIT TIME: Depends on how many people are in the stalls WASHROOM CLEANLINESS: 6 out of 10 HOUSE DRINK: Water PLAYLIST: Mostly techno DON’T WEAR: Open-toed shoes, suit jackets, or any kind of button-down shirt DO WEAR: Discreet designer labels SMELLS LIKE: If you can smell it, you should probably have another drink. FEELS LIKE YOU’RE IN: New York’s East Village circa ‘92 BEST TIME TO GO: After 5 a.m. LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL MEET SOMEONE WORTH SLEEPING WITH: 100% LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL REGRET IT LATER: 99% CHANCE OF FINDING LOVE: N/A IF IT WAS A CELEBRITY IT WOULD BE: Lady Gaga IF IT WAS A MOVIE: Party Monster
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
WEB SITE: Berghain.de
Name: King Size Address: Friedrichstraße 112b, 10117 Web Site: KingSizeBar.de
Name: Grill Royal Address: Friedrichstraße 105b 10117 web site:
DOORMAN’S NAME: Frank EXCLUSIVITY RATING: 4 out of 10 SMOKING POLICY: Binge AVG. WASHROOM WAIT TIME: 10 mins. WASHROOM CLEANLINESS: 2 out of 10 Lindsay Lohan HOUSE DRINK: Maker’s & ginger PLAYLIST: House DON’T WEAR: Anything dry-clean only DO WEAR: Nothing you cannot afford to have destroyed SMELLS LIKE: Ashtray DECOR: Shabby chic FEELS LIKE YOU’RE IN: The L train at rush hour BEST NIGHT: Wednesday and Saturday LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL MEET SOMEONE WORTH SLEEPING WITH: 95% LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL REGRET IT LATER: 90% CHANCE OF FINDING LOVE: 0% IF THIS CLUB WAS A CELEBRITY IT WOULD BE: Lindsay Lohan EXPECT TO PAY: 10 Euros per cocktail, cash
GrillRoyal.com DOORMAN’S NAME: Reservations are a must. EXCLUSIVITY RATING: 5 out of 10 NAME TO DROP: A manager’s SMOKING POLICY: Smoking lounge AVG. WASHROOM WAIT TIME: None WASHROOM CLEANLINESS: 9 out of 10 HOUSE DRINK: Gin martini, dry, with a twist DON’T WEAR: A T shirt DO WEAR: Dior, Yves Saint Laurent SMELLS LIKE: Heaven DECOR: Modernist FEELS LIKE YOU’RE IN: Mad Men BEST NIGHT: Weekend LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL MEET SOMEONE WORTH SLEEPING WITH: Depends on your pocketbook LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL REGRET IT LATER: 10% CHANCE OF FINDING LOVE: 30% IF THIS CLUB WAS A CELEBRITY IT WOULD BE: Christian Bale IF IT WERE A MOVIE: American Psycho EXPECT TO PAY: 100+ Euros per person
Name: Flamingo Address: Kleine Präsidentstrasse 4a
Name: Borchardt Address: Französische Straße 47
Am Monbijoupark S-bahnbögen 157/158 10178 web site: FlamingoBerlin.com
web site: Borchardt-Restaurant.de
DOORMAN’S NAME: Tom EXCLUSIVITY RATING: 3 out of 10 NAME TO DROP: Conny Opper, Peaches SMOKING POLICY: Open AVG. WASHROOM WAIT TIME: 5 mins. WASHROOM CLEANLINESS: 4 out of 10 HOUSE DRINK: Vodka tonic PLAYLIST: Varies DO WEAR: Don’t Shoot the Messenger SMELLS LIKE: Cigarettes DECOR: Black FEELS LIKE YOU’RE IN: Lower East Side LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL MEET SOMEONE WORTH SLEEPING WITH: 80% LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL REGRET IT LATER: 55% CHANCE OF FINDING LOVE: 20% IF THIS CLUB WAS A CELEBRITY IT WOULD BE: Courtney Love IF IT WERE A MOVIE: Cocktail EXPECT TO PAY: 8 Euros per cocktail, 3 Euros per beer, plus cover EASIEST BARTENDER TO GET A FREE DRINK FROM: Candace
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DOORMAN’S NAME: Reservations are a must. EXCLUSIVITY RATING: 4 out of 10 SMOKING POLICY: Smoking lounge AVG. WASHROOM WAIT TIME: None WASHROOM CLEANLINESS: 8 out of 10 HOUSE DRINK: Vintage Ruinart DO WEAR: Chanel, Hermès DÉCOR: Brasserie FEELS LIKE YOU’RE IN: Paris LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL MEET SOMEONE WORTH SLEEPING WITH: 20% LIKELIHOOD YOU’LL REGRET IT LATER: 20% CHANCE OF FINDING LOVE: 50% IF THIS CLUB WAS A CELEBRITY IT WOULD BE: Edith Piaf IF IT WERE A MOVIE: Midnight in Paris EXPECT TO PAY: 50+ Euros per person
getty images (2); kingsize & royal grill: all interiors courtesy of the clubs
15° 03,057’ S 40° 45,901’ E Mozambique
you’re a work of a
Rebekka Ruetz FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Van Gogh’s Selfie
Helleu’s Mademoiselle Louis-Guerin
Van der Weyden’s Lady
Some of us create it, some of us collect it ... and some of us look like 19th century paintings. Say hello to your priceless peers!
Isaac Olivier’s Unkown Man getty images (2); PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; VAN GOGH & HELLEU: ERICH LESSING/ART RESOURCE, NY; DER WEYDEN: NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON/ART RESOURCE, NY; OLIVIER: V8A IMAGES, LONDON/ART RESOURCE, NY
Lena Hoschek and Rolfe Scheider
About Patti: A recognized expert in the field of body language analysis, Wood is the author of Snap: Making the Most of First Impressions, Body Language and Charisma.
“She really doesn’t want to be seen as a unit with him and he’s all about being seen as a unit with her. If you look at how close together her feet are they are really tight. She’s trying to get away from him. Her head is also pulled away and her smile is asymmetrical. She’s trying to smile for the camera. The feet are particularly interesting to me. The asymmetry is very subtle but, to me, very obvious. His elbow out makes his whole silhouette even larger but also very dramatic. It’s unusual for a man to just do one arm out. It says: I want to be seen, I want to be dramatic, and I am larger.”
More than words Renowned body language expert Patti Wood decodes your “non-verbal” behavior … BY EDDIE ROCHE
Karl Lagerfeld and Linda Evangelista
“Look at his toe! See how his toes are pointing out and his feet are apart slightly? He knows he has to face toward that camera and that part of his stance is very confident. But you see how the whole upper torso, from the waist up, is turned away? This is one of those photographs where it is about what is going on in that particular instance than about how two people feel about each other. Her feet show she wants to be seen with him. She is doing what is called the ‘love v’ towards him. Which is really interesting for a model because whenever I usually read models feet it’s about them being skinny, when one foot is placed oddly in front of the other. She’s decidedly not doing that, so it says to me that her relationship with him is very important and she wants to be seen as having a good fun relationship with him. She is also having a good evening, if you look at how straight up and down her posture is, and her eye looking upwards.” Love stance!
Protect your mate!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Marc Jacobs and Harry Louis
“Harry has a more outgoing personality and you can see that by how he’s standing in front and has his right arm dramatically out and forward, protecting his mate. It’s interesting that his look is much more serious. You can see his eyes are focused in a different manner. I didn’t even recognize Marc, because he’s usually sitting in front. Notice how close Marc’s arms are to his body—if you look at his silhouette he’s making himself smaller. That’s interesting and surprising because he is not that way when he’s by himself; he takes up much more space. Typically, he holds his arms away from his body, almost creating a cove..”
Michael Michalsky Super confident!
“What’s wonderful about this is that it’s a mixture. With his face he is actually smiling and has a playful little boy smile. You can tell that by how high the cheeks go. There’s a playful moment there, but something must have happened to make him do that because he was uncomfortable. You see the way his hands are pushed down straight in his pockets so he was Comfort uncomfortable but in that moment zone! he said, ‘Oh, okay. I’ll be playful.’ This is a peculiar posture, with his legs crossed that way. Guys do that toe up when they are showing off to other guys or are really comfortable with other guys. I see it usually when guys are standing side-by-side when they have equal statuses. It shows supreme confidence. So, you see over confidence, then the arms in the pockets, which would show a lack of confidence, and then a playful smile.”
Harald Glööckler and Amanda Lepore
the foot placement says, I am either trying to block her and I want to be up front. The most telling part “One of the most important things about her, besides the fact that she to notice is how his hand is at his has her chest out, is look at her chin neck. That is called a ‘comfort cue.’ and how it goes up. That shows that It’s usually done by women when she is very confident with how good they’re really uncomfortable. At this she looks, that chin moment I think he is above center line shows very uncomfortable Superiority! extreme confidence and with her showing off superiority. See how it’s and he wants to be angled over towards more center stage. See him? She is showing him how his foot is out and up decidedly not doing forward? He doesn’t that, so it says to me that like that she is taking her relationship with the stage and being so him is very important sexually obvious. See and she wants to be how his chin goes down seen as having a good and his eyes placement fun relationship with towards her with that him. She is also having judgment look on his a good evening, if you face? The combination look at how straight up of that comfort cue and down her posture and the face shows his is, and her eye looking lack of comfort with upwards.” what she’s doing, and
g e t t y (4) ; c o u r t e s y J a n i n e D r i v e r
PRÄSENTIEREN DAS NEUE FASHION-TALENT DER SAISON HERBST I WINTER 2013
Nach Designern aus den Niederlanden, China und Kanada betritt diesen Winter wieder ein vielversprechendes Nachwuchstalent die internationale Bühne:
AM 17 | 01 | 2013 PRÄSENTIERT DAS JAPANISCHE LABEL „A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT“ AUF DER MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN SEINE BEEINDRUCKENDE KOLLEKTION IM FASHION-ZELT AUF DER STRASSE DES 17. JUNI | BRANDENBURGER TOR. Entdecken Sie den Newcomer auf www.elle.de/adegreefahrenheit