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Paintings of Travels to Bhutan DUYGU KIVANC

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“PEACE”

Copyright © 2006 by Duygu Kivanc. 34063-KIVA Library of Congress Control Number: 2006905521 ISBN 10: Softcover 1-4257-2165-6 ISBN 13: Softcover 978-1-4257-2165-7 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or in any form or by any means, electronic or including photocopying, recording, or by any storage and retrieval system, without in writing from the copyright owner.

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INTRODUCTION

This book is about my travels and my observations with my paintings in Bhutan…. The first day,we spent in Thimpu is difficult to describe.. After flying for two days via Honolulu ,Hong Kong and Bankok,we felt like we had entered the unknown… Overwhelming presence of The Himalayas,the colors of The Valley and the stillness of the day was beautiful as well as scary.. I never imagined ,I could survive a week, let alone living there for three years.. But,it was the most unforgettable three years of my life ,I cherish, when I look back.. Waking up in a land with a clear mind and spirit,gives one a determination of doing one’s best in eacht day,which is full of sunshine in the winter and the trickling of the monsoon rains in the summer. There are wonderful gardens to tend:Animals to take care of and enough time to listen to your inner thoughts and attend your duties and hobbies.. And the solitude of the evening,makes one humble and thankful for being alive..

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Chapter 1 My Visit To The Himalayas

When I heard that we were going to a country called Bhutan, I had to look up in the world atlas to see where we were going. My husband had just accepted an assignment to work as a financial advisor to the Government of Bhutan, for the World-Bank/IMF representative.We had to make our decision as quickly as possible since thedeadline was approaching quickly. But it was not easy to make the decision, which would involve our family’s future. … After, many sleepless nights, we decided to take the assignment and accepted our adventurous journey….The first thing was to find a high school for our youngest child, Mert. It turned out that the curriculum of the High School Of Thimpu, was only up to tenth grade, and the children were sent to India to finish their studies. Time was running out on the arrangements. We applied to the University of Nebraska’s correspondence studies and started to pack our suitcases. We were going to leave our daughter, Mugé, who is the eldest of our children and our elder son, Tunç were attending George Mason University, so we found a flat for our base in the United States. And had our vaccinations and packed two trunks of needed items as much as we can and flew to Hawaii as the first leg of our journey.

Chapter 2 MY PICTURE BOOK OF BHUTAN Mountainous Bhutan, half the size of Indiana, is situated on the southeast slope of the Himalayas, bordered on the north and east by Tibet and on the south and west and east by India. The landscape consists of a succession of lofty and rugged mountains and deep valleys. In the north, towering peaks reach a height of 24,000 ft (7,315 m).

The landscape of Bhutan explodes with blossoming things, ensuring an enchanting experience for those new to botany and seasoned enthusiasts. Among them dendrobium, cymbidium, bulbophyllum, calanthe and goodyera are a few of the orchid kind as well as beautiful species of rhododendrons. Although archeological exploration of Bhutan has been limited, evidence of civilization in the region dates back to at least 2000 B.C. Aboriginal Bhutanese, known as Monpa, are believed to have migrated from Tibet. The traditional name of the country since the 17th century has been Drukyul, Land of the Drokpa (Dragon People), a reference to the dominant branch of Tibetan Buddhism that is still practiced in the Himalayan kingdom.

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The perpetually snow-covered Great Himalayas are uninhabited, except for some Buddhist monks in scattered monasteries. Bhutan is drained by several rivers rising in the Himalayas and flowing into India. Thunderstorms and torrential rains are common; rainfall averages from 200 to 250 in. (508-635 cm) on the southern plains. The valleys, especially the Paro, are intensively cultivated. It’s religion is: Lamaistic Buddhist 75%, Indian- and Nepalese-influenced Hinduism 25%. And the languages are: Dzongkha (official), Tibetan dialects (among Bhotes), Nepalese dialects (among Nepalese).. The Country is ruled by a king,named: King Jigme Singye Wangchuck (1972) Some Bhutanese say that the arrival of airplanes in 1974 marked the true moment that Bhutan opened to the outside world. They say that Bhutan joined the global community when the kingdom became a dot on the map where people could fly. The government, the Buddhist monastic community and members of the Bhutanese press all agree that Bhutan’s unique heritage is its most valuable strength. And personally, I hope that the policies of cultural protectionism prevail. But as the foreign minister so aptly acknowledged, in this increasingly small world, the globalized exchange of cultures is simply inevitable Bhutanese honor their cultural inheritance and decorate the outside of their homes with huge phallic symbols. “paro valley”

“village scene”

Chapter 3

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After a forthnight stay at Tashi Hotel in Thimpu,we moved to our assigned housing, provided by the Bhutanese Government.. There, the days spent mostly ,trying to adjust to the living of the required lifestyle: Which meant getting up early in the mornings,going shopping and preparation for the food..Not everything was available to buy at that time.So,I had to be imaginative and tried to be self sufficient, by starting the day with making bread and sausages when fresh meat was sold in the open market. There was a library outings to the Town and the Swiss Bakery for meeting with friends and friends to be.. During our stay :Between 1984-1987, there was no television, but we,could get video tapes of the movies,even though the visibility of the pictures were not so good. In November/19/1984,we bought a puppy,a Tibetan terrier and named him:Rusty He was the joy for the whole family... We managed to bring him back home(Fairfax,VA/USA) and he was with us for 18 years,before his life was ended.. “rusty”

Chapter 4 On Saturday Mornings,we used to go to the weekly vegetable and fruit shopping at the outdoor market grounds.. Sometimes,we could also, find a recently slaughtered cow hanging from a hook .That meant ,finding out about our butchering talents to cut and divide the meat in sections for the family and the dogs.. We had three months of Mansoon Rains in the summertime.It was very important to keep some of the meat in the freezer,because the transportation was difficult in the slippery ,muddy situations,to bring food from Phuntsoling(A southern town,in the Indian Border). It was always important to boil the water, whatever the season was. Even though,The Himalaya’s have the clearest water and pleasant to drink,the plumbing to the houses were inadequate. But,as a tea drinker it was the best place to be.I used to make lovely tea with the Lopchu brand,from Darjeeling.. The Budhist Monks ,play important part in the everyday life of Bhutan.They follow a discipline,observing monastic vows while training the young monks in reading and writing and preaparing them them in taking part in various ceremonies.. Boys are admitted to the monasteries at an early age of 5 or 6 and are placed under the tutorship of an older and educated monk. They live in Dzongs.. Dzongs are built in each valley to educate the monks,since each contained a monastery but also constituted instrument of government and unification of the Country.. Thimpu Dzongs.. “THIMPU DZONG”

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“DZONG” (above) “PARO “DZONG” (below)

“ENTRANCE TO THE DZONG”

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“MONK IN FRONT OF THE DZONG”

“THE DZONG FROM A DISTANCE”

“INSIDE THE MONASTERY”

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Chapter 5

“ENROUTE BUMTHANG”

Many Festivals are celebrated in Bhutan. Most are religious festivals,where dances are performed with masks. For the Bhutanese,these festivals are unique occasions to dress up,and socialize and prove their religious fervour.. “DUSK IN THIMPU”

The Royal Orchestra Musicians play,while various dances are performed.

“TW

“THIMPU MUSICIANS” (below)

Chapter 6 I love to observe peoples’ faces wherever I go. Bhutan was no exception. I saw feelings of emotion on young and old alike.The lifelines were much more visible on older people. There were young women, carrying their babies on their back,while working on the road building jobs for a daily wage of a dollar. .Those women were usually Nepalese Women ,working for daily wages.. Young people carried responsibilities on much younger age.. They are very warm and sincere people

“TWO BHUTANESE WOMEN”

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“FLOWER CARRYING GIRL,FESTIVAL IN PARO”

“W

“WOMAN WITH HER BABY #1”

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“KESAN DEKI”

“PRAYING WOMAN”

“WOMAN WITH HER BABY #2”

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“WOMAN WITH HER BABY #3”

“CHILD CARRYING CHILD “

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“A NEPALI ROAD WORKER”

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Chapter 7 I remember having three breakfasts, all in one day, flying nonstop to the United States on our breaks. There is eleven hours time difference between the two continants. But it is all worthed, because,you gain a whole day when you reach home.. Sometimes;We used to stopover at our birth country,Istanbul,Turkiye. To be a Mediterrenean means that you have to be near the water. It enriches your life.Or at least, that is how I feel. Visiting,Istanbul or Bodrum, even for a couple of days was the highlight of the journey.. But,when we had limited time frame, we had to fly nonstop.. In and out of Thimpu was a little adventurous at the time.

“BODRUM/TURKEY”

Bhutan Government had only two sixteen seater jet planes ,which were not pressurized, and meant they could not climb more that ten thousand feet.. During the Mansoon Rains, the planes did not follow a precise schedule. Weather was more important for the safety.. It was one of those rainy days,when Mugé and Tunç were scheduled to fly in from Calcutta,India.. We could manage to talk on the telephone and learned that they made it safely to Calcutta . 23

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The expected Thimpu flight would be the next day,weather permitting… Ashok,Airport Hotel was the place for many passengers,traveling to Thimpu.from Calcutta. It was a comfortable place and close to the airport.. There is a better hotel in Calcutta,called Obiroi. But,it is in the City and inconvenient for travelers for it’s distance and the traffic. The next day came with pouring rain.We were told that the plain returned to Calcutta after an hour flight.It was impassible with the clouds and the rain. We returned to Thimpu, disappointed, from Paro Airport. The second day, we went back to Paro and at, 2.00 p.m we saw the plane’s sight and got very excited. It was wonderful to be together again… Now,Bhutan has bigger and pressurized jet planes ,that travel both Calcutta and New Delhi.

“ISTANBUL/TURKEY”

Chapter 8 The first winter was pleasant.We did not have any snow. Even though,we were surrounded by the Young Himalayas,Thimpu was in the valley and the winter days were warmer.The temperature could rise up to 60s Fahreinheight and up... But,for the evenings everyone had to have some kind of a heater to feel warm. We had two carosene heaters and a wood stove. During the days,we went on long hikes and gathered dry flowers,and the shrub branches,left from the sunny and warm days. And the evenings were to meet with friends and for reading and hobbies.. Our Toyota car,which we ordered from Hong Kong,arrived after seven months and we started to go on rides to learn more about our surroundings.. It was one of those days,we crossed the manmade stone bridge to the other side of the town.. “HARVEST TIME IN THIMPU”

There was a long winding road called: Dechen Choling which meant Palace Gate Road. And on that road, there was a construction ,we thought was beautiful.It was being built all by hand by a carpenter and had circular windows and a studio on the second floor. After questioning about it,we met the young woman ,Kesan Deki ,who was the owner.

We told her about our interest in renting it.And after five months,we were able to move to the new house…

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“PALACE GATE ROAD/DECHEN CHOLING PALACE ROAD”

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“THE VIEW FROM THE FRONT DOOR”

“THROUGH THE WINDOW”

“THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR”

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“FROM THE LIVING ROOM/THROUGH THE WINDOW#2”

“THROUGH THE WINDOW #3”

“hills”

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Chapter 9

After a year in Thimpu/Bhutan,we were feeling comfortable in our new home and thinking that ; The education of our youngest child,Mert was in control and he could be with us for another year to finish his studies.. We asked the young German/Ducth couple,who were working with the United Mations Development Program(UNDP) to tutor him. We used to receive the University Of Nebraska lessons by mail. After Mert, studied them, the tests were done by Niko and Greta. But,that arrangement turned impossible,when, the mail stopped for a three month period. and we decided to send him back to The States with two of our other children,when they would come to visit us. So,we started to wait for the Spring Session to end at The George Mason University to see our two children’s arrival and to say goodbye to the youngest….

Chapter 10 Now,Bhutan has bigger and pressurized jet planes ,that travel both Calcutta and New Delhi. It was time to leave for the kids.. Not a day I was looking forward to…I looked in control,giving advice ,acting unemotional and preparing for a whole year of separation...When the Day came, it was not an easy task as planned. But,still, as parents ,we still looked in control and waited for them to leave to cry...Rusty gave me a hug, on the way back from Paro... The rest of the remainder of two years were spent mostly,traveling to Phuntsoling,an Indian border town with a tropical climate and beautiful landscape, Bumtang, and Punaka... One of the most Interesting sites in the Himalayas is Taksang Temple. It was built into a cliff and appears almost inaccessible,hanging 3000 feet over the valley below. It takes three to four hours to climb to the Temple,which is also known as Tiger’s Chapter# 10. Nest,because of the legend that Guru Rinponche,visited the site by flying there on the back of a tiger. Phajoding Pass which looks over the valley of Thimpu has an altitude of 4000meters.In the background of snow capped peaks of the Black Mountains are full of prayer flags...It is not unusual, to find yourself among the fog and the clouds,when you are at that altitude. Tibet is visible from that region.

“TAKSANG/BHUTAN”

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TAK

“VILLAGE SCENE #2”

TAKSANG#2

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Chapter 11 It is now in every Bhutanese heart.as a religious capital . Tibet is one of the “five fingers of China”as stated by Mao and it’s religious leader Dai Lai Lama resides in India after fleeing Tibet. An old monk told me that the real reason to build a temple in unsually high places was not only to represent the greatness of Budha,but, also to establish a national security of communications web. As known,Bhutan is the only country,which was not accupied by the British Empire in that region. Many factors are argued ;Such as lack of roads,presence of the high valleys and highly skilled Bhutanese archers.. When we were in Thimpu, we gardened (we planted fifty rhodadendruns in the garden, along with many bulbs and other plants) And I paintied in that beautiful studio,surrounded by colors,;Challenging and always changing… At the end of 1987,in November, my husband and I returned home to be together with two of our older children....

“SOLITUDE”

“HAWAII”

“MORNING TEA CHAIR/VIEW FROM THE LIVING ROOM”

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You can find many informative books about Bhutan. My version is: To thank the Peoples and the Government of Bhutan for making our stay wonderful and memorable .. I also lso want wan to thank my husband Turan Kivanc for taking me places, which I would not even dream about. ab An And my children;For being understanding the meaning for our reason to take the assignment and turning turnin out to be great kids.. Duygu Kivanc

“ON THE ROAD”