Scabal Guide to Cloth

A GUIDE TO CLOTH

A GUIDE TO CLOTH 1- RAW MATERIAL 2- FINENESS OF THE FIBRE 3- YARN 4- WEAVING 5- DESIGN 6- COLOURATION 7- FINISHING 8- PROPERTIES 9- BUNCHES BY WEIGHT 10- CARE INFORMATION

1 - RAW MATERIAL

natural

synthetic

ANIMAL - - - - - -

wool mohair cashmere vicuna camel silk

PLANT - - - -

cotton bamboo linen kapok

- polyester - microfibre

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

WOOL characteristics : • Wool fibre is found in the fleece of the sheep • Fine wools come from the Merino breed, Australia is the No.1 producer properties : • Light, volumous, ability to absorb humidity and an insulater • The length, diameter, amount of crimp and strength between fibres vary.

It is these properties which determine the value of wool • The unit of measure for fineness is micron(µ) = 1/1000th mm • Super xxx’s is a classification used to grade the wools by fineness

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

WOOL

collections

overcoatings

eton

capri Merino sheep in Australia

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

MOHAIR characteristics : • Mohair is from the Angora goat • South Africa is the No.1 producer properties : • smooth, shiny, fresh and hard wearing • Fineness: 24µ for Kid Mohair to >36µ for Adult mohair.

• Fine mohair is usually blended with wool for summer suitings and sports jacketings.

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

MOHAIR collections

monterey bay festival

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

CASHMERE characteristics : • Cashmere is from the Falconari goat, which lives at an altitude of 5.000 mtrs. properties : • It is very fine, lustrous, soft, light and volumnous.

• Fibre length: 28 to 45mm • Fineness : 13 to 16.5 µ

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

CASHMERE collections

romance loch fyne casheen overcoatings ultra caresse charme

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

VICUNA characteristics : • From the vicuna lama which live in the Andes, Peru at an altitude of 5,000mtrs properties : • Is the finest and rarest natural fibre • Is warm, extremely soft and lustrous • Length: 20 to 25mm • Fineness: 10 to 13µ

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

VICUNA

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

CAMEL characteristics : • camel fabric is obtained using the hairs located on the animal’s neck properties : • Used in the production of luxury coats • The fibre is much appreciated for its insulating qualities, as well as for its elasticity and rigour • Fineness : generally between 16-18µ • Length of the fibre : from 25-130mm

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

CAMEL

overcoatings

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

SILK characteristics : • Silk is the secretion of the Bombyx moth or Bombyx mori.

• It is taken from the cocoon • Duppioni is a wild silk properties : • Shiny, smooth and extremely fine • Length: 800 to 1,200 mtrs • Finesse: 9 to 11µ

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – ANIMAL

SILK collections

nobility sleek pure silk festival royal silk ultra silk siberia

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – PLANT

COTTON characteristics : • Cotton is a vegetable fibre grown in Egypt and America properties : • Strong, soft, cool in summer and warm in winter • Length: 2 to 5cm • Fineness: 12 to 20µ

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – PLANT

COTTON collections

cashmere cotton cashmere corduroy pure cotton riviera st.tropez corduroy ascona

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – PLANT

LINEN characeristics : • Linen is a vegetable fibre taken from the latin linium usiatissimum properties : • Very hard wearing and cool for summer jackets, trousers and suits • Length: 7.5 to 15 cm • Fineness: 15 to 18µ

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – PLANT

LINEN collections

PURE LINEN VINTAGE LINEN ST. TROPEZ ACAPULCO RIVIERA

1 - RAW MATERIAL – NATURAL – PLANT

KAPOK characeristics : • The fibres produced from this tropical tree’s fruit - ceiba pentandra- are known as ‘silk cotton’ • A luxurious feel properties : • Ideal for formal and active wear • Natural resilience • Excellent thermo-regulatory properties • Can be machine washed at cold temperatures

1 - RAW MATERIAL – SYNTHETIC

POLYESTER characteristics : • Man-made, the result of a chemical reaction • Historically regarded as a cheap alternative to wool, today it is a similar price • Fine Polyester is named microfibre properties : • Easy care, resistant to stains and creasing and is washable • Usually blended with wool to obtain an optimum blend • Length: infinite • Fineness: variable, measured in Dtex

ADDITIONAL RAW MATERIALS • Cupro (LINING) • Guanaco (IMPERIAL TRILOGY) • Viscose (LINING)

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2 - FINENESS OF THE FIBRE

The fineness of the fibres is defined with the diameter of one fibre.

It is specified in Îź = microns If a fine Wool fibre measures 18Îź, that means 18/1000 of a millimetre.

Specially for wool the fineness of the fibre is very important.

A second quality characteristic is the length of the fibres.

Only with long and fine fibres is possible to spin a fine yarn.

Generally you can say: the fine and longer the fibre, makes a finer and lighter yarn and results in a softer handle of the cloth.

The S numbers may be used on products of 100 percent wool as well as on blends of at least 45 percent wool

2 - FINENESS OF THE FIBRE

CLASSIFICATION what is the meaning of a «super xxx’s» wool for scabal?

The wool quality is defined by a special classification called “Super xxx’s”, which is connected to the fineness of its fibres.

For example, the fineness of the fibres of a Super 100’s wool is about 18,5 μ The International Wool Textile Organisation is the promulgator of the Fabric Labelling Code of Practice which governs the use the "S" and "Super S" designations for fine wool and wool blend fabrics.

The Code defines the S number by correlation to maximum fiber diameter. For example, 80s must have maximum fiber diameter of 19.75 micrometres or finer and 90s, 19.25 micrometres or finer. This scale continues to the 210s at 13.25 micrometre or finer.

Thus each step of ten (as from 80s to 90s or 90s to 100s) corresponds to 0.5 micrometre less in allowed maximum fiber diameter. It has been proposed to extend the scale to 250s at 11.25 micrometre or finer.

2 - FINENESS OF THE FIBRE

CLASSIFICATION I.W.T.C.

SCABAL SUPER

MICRONS

19.75

super 80’s

19.25

super 90’s super 80’s

19.00

super 90’s

18.75 18.50

super 100’s

18.25

super 110’s

18.00 17.75

> the royal, new deluxe, heroic, cortina, monterey bay, flannel & saxony,

super 110’s

17.50

> galaxy, finest jacketings

super 120’s

17.25 17.00

> jewel, triple a, champion, silver cloud, flannel & saxony, hercules,

super 100’s super 120’s super 130’s super 140’s

16.75

super 150’s

16.25

royal gabardines

golden ribbon, shuttle, mosaic

super 130’s

16,00 15.75

> eton, festival, mosaic

super 140’s

15.50

> toison d’or, londoner, triumph

super 160’s

2 - FINENESS OF THE FIBRE

CLASSIFICATION I.W.T.C.

SCABAL SUPER

super 170’s super 150’s

MICRONS

15.25 15.00

> concerto, sleek, homer, royal gabardines

14.75

super 180’s super 160’s

14,50

> royal flush

super 180’s

14.25 13.80

> zenith, eos, super 180’s

super 190’s

13.75

Super 200’s super 210’s

13.50 13.25

super 220’s

12.75

super 200’s

super 230’s super 240’s

super 230’s

12.25 11.75

super 250’s

super 250’s

11.25

> the star, sunrise, expression

> imperial trilogy

2 - FINENESS OF THE FIBRE

CLASSIFICATION what is the meaning of a «super xxx’s» wool for scabal?

It is always possible to spin a thicker yarn out of very fine fibres to get a heavier cloth with a luxury soft handle

Nevertheless, Scabal fabrics are again finer than the classification Super xxx’s declares.

3 - YARN

3 - YARN

THE FINENESS OF THE YARN

Measured in terms of weight over length commonly known as the count using the system New Metric, Nm. The finer the yarn the higher the number.

Typical values: Jacketings: 1/19Nm to 2/ 56Nm Suitings: 2/50Nm to 2/150Nm

3 - YARN

SPINNING • • •

The process used to produce a yarn is known as Spinning. The individual fibres are turned around one another to produce a continuous thread or yarn that can be used for Weaving.

The fibres are sorted by hand based on their quality, fineness, strength, appearance and length.

The fibres are washed, and seperated using a carding action then prepared for Spinning in one of two ways:

Coarse fibres Carded (woollen) Fig. 1

Fine fibres Combed (worsted) Fig. 2

3 - YARN

SPINNING Fibres are put together into tops and then, worsted or not, into rovings.

These rovings are drawn and twisted to create the thread on an twisting loom.

twisting of a thread

ring spinning

4 - WEAVING

•

Weaving is the interlacing of many vertical, or warp yarns with many horizontal, or weft yarns.

•

The sheet of warp yarns are opened up and the feeder or rapier passes a single weft yarn inbetween, forming the interlacing, or weave.

4 - WEAVING

THE WEAVING LOOM

4 - WEAVING

WEAVES - TYPES OF There are numerous varieties of weaves available, here are the most popular: plain weave A plain weave is one of the three basic types of weaving. Each horizontal weft thread is interlaced with each vertical warp thread by going over one and under the second, over the third and so on.

Because of so many interlaces of the weft with the warp, the plain weave generally is the most solid construction.

The fabric can be very light and airy without loosing its stability.

That’s the reason why plain weaves are very popular.

4 - WEAVING

WEAVES - TYPES OF hopsack A hopsack is a modification of the plain weave.

2 of more vertical warp threads going over and under 2 or more horizontal weft threads. The structure looks like little cubes. The contstruction is very popular for jacketings, bit it can also be used forsuiting qualities.

4 - WEAVING

WEAVES - TYPES OF twill A TWILL is on of the three basic types of weaving.

A characteristic for a twill is it’s diagonal appearance. A vertical warp thread going over one or more and under one or more horizontal weft threads. Very common is the 2 and 2 twill: that means 2 warp threads going over 2 and then under 2 weft threads and so on. Twill fabrics offer great versatility and drape and can be worn all year round.

Twill weave 2-2

prunelle A PRUNELLE is a special kind of twill weave. For this construction one vertical warp thread goes over two and then under one horizontal weft thread. You can also say it is a 2-1 twill. A characteristic is that the face of the fabric looks different from the back, especially if different shades are used in warp and weft.

4 - WEAVING

WEAVES - TYPES OF herringbone A HERRINGBONE is a modification of a twill weave.

The diagonal structure of the twill changes its direction after a constant numbers of warp threads. The result is a zigzag effect, which reminds a little bit of the skeleton of a herring.

satin weave A SATIN is one of the three basic types of weaving.

The fabrics have a very brilliant and clean face, which is different from the back. Normally they are heavier than the plain weaves or twills. A characteristic is the smooth handle and the excellent draping and fall.

Venetian, Sharkskin and Faille are special kinds of satin weaves.

4 - WEAVING

WEAVES - TYPES OF birdeye A BIRDEYE is a spot-like micro-design for worsted spun wool qualities, which looks a little bit like the eye of a bird. Normally two different yarn shades are used for this design.

gabardine A GABARDINE is a derivation weave of a twill. It shows diagonals on the face with a steep degree. The construction of the cloth is very tight and is often used for trousers.

4 - WEAVING

WEAVES - TYPES OF velvet A VELVET has a short pile of normally 2 to 3 mm and is mainly made of cotton.

Velvets are in general very delicate and have to be treated very carefully not to damage the pile (never put a press on it and be careful with rubbing it). Because of this Scabal does not recommend them for trousers.

The pile of a velvet as well as the one of acorduroy has a direction which we have to take in account during the manfacturing. Velvets have an exeptional elegant and noble appearance, which makes them very popular for ceremonial wear. In fancy or light shades they are also important for new fashion trends.

corduroy A CORDUROY is a fabric with a pile. For a corduroy this pile is grouped in ribs, which are normally vertical and can be different in width.

The ground weave and pile are mainly made of cotton, which gives the cloth comfortable wearing properties. These fabrics are often used for trousers or sportjackets. Especially popular in winter.

5 - DESIGN

The following are all obtained by the formation of colour woven on the twill weave

houndstooth

pick and pick

chalk stripe

pinhead

5 - DESIGN

glencheck GLENCHECKS are big checks, generally with a coloured overcheck.

The can be found for sportive jackets as well as for classical suits.

prince of wales A special type of glencheck is the « Prince of Wales » check, which is a classical design for suitings.

6 - COLOURATION

METHODS

Greater risk of colour continuity

• • • •

Fibre dyeing Yarn dyeing Piece dyeing Garment dyeing Less economical

7 - FINISHING There are many different routes a cloth will take at this stage. The route determines the final touch and appearance of the cloth. Here are the basic routes:

7 - FINISHING

WET FINISHING SCOURING . The cloth is washed to clean it from additional spinning or machine oil from previous processes. . For wool qualities there is a certain degree of shrinkage and conditioning at this stage.

PIECE DYEING . If required MILLING . This action gives volume to the cloth important for Flannels and Overcoating, not all cloths are milled.

FLANNEL

7 - FINISHING

DRY FINISHING

DRYING

. The fabric is dryed to a certain width.

RAISING

. The surface of the cloth is brushed. This is important for cashmere and overcoating qualities.

raising

7 - FINISHING

WET FINISHING CROPPING

. The cloth is passed over a knife edge and the raised fibres on the surface of the cloth are cut to an equal height.

BLOWING/PRESSING

. The cloth is wrapped in a centrifuguel chamber and blown using high pressured steam. This consolidates the cloth and gives the final shrinkage.

PAPER PRESS

. A traditional press given to Superfine and Ultrafine worsted qualities to give the brilliant smooth handle. . The cloth is layered between electrically heated card under pressure for 24 hours

7 - FINISHING

WET FINISHING

paper press

8 – PROPERTIES

The life of a garment is determined by the carer.

COMFORT For larger sized people it is advisable to use a cloth that is less delicate, i.e. London, Eton,..

CREASING All natural cloths crease to a certain degree. Most qualities return to their original condition either on their own or with steam and a light press.

DRAPE This is the way in which a cloth falls.

8 – PROPERTIES

DELICATE CLOTHS i.e. silk, cashmere The more delicate the cloth the more expensive it is and the most amount of care is required.

Problems that can become when the garment is not correctly cared for are pilling, pulled up threads and abrasion.

COLOUR CONSISTENCY There is a certain degree of colour tolerance between pieces when comparing different deliveries. This is quite acceptable especially in cotton qualities.

9 – BUNCHES BY WEIGHT

Light weight: 150 - 260 grms • • • • • • • • •

Pure Linen Riviera Acapulco Jason Royal Silk Cashmere Cotton Cosmopolitan Finest Jacketing Festival

• • • • • • • • •

Jewel Homer Fresh Nobility Pure Silk Mosaic Caravelle Image Vintage Linen

• • • • • • • • • •

Silver Cloud Monterey Bay Triumph Zenith Sleek Golden Ribbon St Tropez Shuttle Colibri Toison d’Or

9 – BUNCHES BY WEIGHT

Medium weight: 270 -320 grms • • • • • • • •

Kapok Cortina Riviera Smart Galaxy Salt and Pepper Heroic Eton

• • • • • • • •

Young Generation Finest Jacketings Festival Flannel & Saxony Cortina Corduroy Ascona Fidelio

• • • • • •

Gallery Just in Time Triple A Heraldic Royal Flush Rhapsody

9 – BUNCHES BY WEIGHT

Heavy weight: > 320 grms • • • • • •

Panache Festival Finest Jacketings Royal Gaberdines Fidelio Super 180’s & Cashm Flannel

• • • • • • •

Overcoatings Ascona Cashmere Corduroy Flannel & Saxony Classics Cortina Acapulco

• • • • • • •

Velvets Alpaca Corduroy Noble Tweed Loch Fyne Gallery Shetland and Donegal

10 – CARE INSTRUCTIONS

CLEANING It is always necessary to consult the cleaning instructions of each garment and have the work carried out by a renowned company.

do not wash

do not bleach

do not iron

professional cleaning symbol

handwash only

do not bleach

iron at low temperature

dry clean, hydrocarbon solvent only

wash at or below 30°C (USA = cold)

tumble dry

iron at medium temperature

gentle cleaning with PCE only

wash at or below 40°C (USA = warm)

do not tumble dry

iron at high temperature

professional wet cleaning

10 – CARE INSTRUCTIONS

TRAVEL Remove the jacket when seated, this is the main cause for creasing.

Lay, or better still hang the jacket.

CHANGE OF SUIT, rotation of suit Garments should be changed each day. 2 days in succession can already be too much.

After wearing the jacket always hang on a substantial hanger, placing the trousers in a press, overnight should be sufficient.

STORAGE A garment requires a certain amount of space. In the wardrobe leave a distance around the garment to breath and recover.

Never store garments that are soiled.

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