We’re going way back to our roots and embracing the oldest form of cooking: open
Making the Case
Our Editor-in-Chief shares a selection of wines she likes to drink
14 The Search for Calgary's Best Birria
Is there anything that could possibly sum up ‘summer’ more than a spritz? National Spritz day is August 1, but we don’t need an excuse to celebrate it! Thanks very much to photographer Katarzyna (Kasia) Kowalewska for her fresh and mouthwatering photo encapsulating what spritz is all about!
The results of our collaboration with the Mexican Consulate to find Calgary's best birria! by
Quinn Curtis
17 Go South - Alberta Style Day tripping to Southern Alberta? We have ideas for tasting what these prairie communities have to offer. by Lynda
Sea
Summer Seafood Spectacular Summer is a great time to enjoy fish, and we have three delicious recipes for you! by
Natalie Findlay
Comfort in a bottle
When Laurie Rowe retired from decades of shift work as a police dispatcher and postmaster, she wasn’t going to sit idle. by Lucy Haines
26 Step by Step: Garden Vegetable Caponata
A dish for eating outside under a shady umbrella, with a cold drink in hand, and good friends nearby. by Renée Kohlman 28 Puttin’ on the Spritz
For the best ways to “beat the heat”, it’s a good idea to see how places known for it, manage it. by Tom Firth 30 In Good Spirits
Five Scottish whiskies and a local gin! by Tom Firth and Linda Garson 31 Off the Menu
Celebrating 250 years, what’s on the menu for Americans in Alberta this July 4? by Linda Garson 32 World Cup of Beer
If you’re cheering for your favourite team with a beer, what are your options? by David Nuttall
Summer in the City!
It’s here and it’s something to get excited about: those long days, festivals everywhere, patio dining (and drinking – spritzes, cold beers, bubbles, beautiful wines), maybe road trips, BBQ meals and cooking over fire… and in this issue we have them all!
But first some thanks – to all the participants and the vendors that took part in our 12th annual World Taste Tour Treasure Hunt at Calgary Farmers’ Market. Everyone said it was the best Hunt of all the ones we’ve done, and there were so many happy faces and happy tummies at the end of the day. So a huge thanks to all!
And to everyone involved in this year’s Terroir Symposium, celebrating 20 years of Canadian restaurants and food culture. What a huge undertaking, and a wonderful way of building community among chefs, farmers and
producers, and people like us who can tell those stories to a wider audience, for you to know the passion behind so many of the people and places that make our food culture here as vibrant as it is.
I’m always out (21 nights out of 23 recently, and most of the lunchtimes too), eating in restaurants, meeting winemakers, whisky distillers (and rum distillers too!), running events myself, trying new menus and new eateries too, to broaden my own education and to be able to tell you what’s happening in our province and beyond. It occurred to me recently that some people don’t understand why we do what we do, and they think it’s all about commercialismand they couldn’t be more wrong.
We do what we do to support the food culture in Alberta, to let you know what’s available to you, where you can find it, eat it, and drink it. We’re those
‘rising tides float all boats’ people, and when we can get you excited about something here, everyone benefits.
“Hot town, summer in the city. Back of my neck gettin' dirty and gritty...” Are you old enough to remember The Lovin' Spoonful’s song? It’s 60 years old this year!
Wishing you a very delicious summer, Cheers,
Linda, Editor-in-Chief
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher
Linda Garson
linda@culinairemagazine.ca
Managing Editor
Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca
Contributing Editor
Quinn Curtis quinn@culinairemagazine.ca
Multimedia Editor
Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca
Design
Kendra Design Inc
Contributors
Quinn Curtis
Natalie Findlay
Lucy Haines
Dong Kim
Renée Kohlman
Katarzyna Kowalewska
David Nuttall
Lynda Sea
Contact us at:
Culinaire Magazine
#1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802
Renée Kohlman has been cooking and baking professionally for over twenty years. Her two cookbooks All the Sweet Things and Vegetables: A Love Story (both TouchWood Editions) have won awards and been on best-of lists. Renée is often in her kitchen, baking gourmet cookies, which she sells at The Saskatoon Farmers' Market every weekend. She's also a freelance content creator, developing recipes and writing about all things food.
David Nuttall
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He achieved his Beer Judge Certification in 2012, and is the head judge for Calgary International Beerfest, as well as judging the Alberta Beverage Awards and Alberta Beer Awards. He has appeared on radio, television, and in the movie Aleberta: Our Bee History. He is also a freelance writer for print and online, speaker, and has run Brew Ed beer courses since 2014. Follow him @abbrewed.
For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Lynda Sea
Lynda is an awardwinning writer based in Lethbridge. She is also a freelance copywriter/ editor and currently is a communications specialist at the University of Lethbridge. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, WestJet Magazine, EnRoute and Flare. You can usually find her out hiking in the Canadian Rockies or eating her way through Alberta. Follow her @lyndasea.
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. We are committed to support Indigenous chefs and amplify their voices to bring awareness of the food and culture of the First Nations.
Proudly printed in Alberta by Burke Group.
Burwood Distillery is celebrating 10 years, and the passing of the Alberta Whisky Act by breaking ground on their Whisky Trail Experience Centre at the historic D4 Stables in Calgary’s Currie Barracks. Expected to open early 2027, the Centre will certainly help put Alberta whisky on the global stage!
Congratulations to Eight, placing #2 on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants 2026 list! An incredible achievement, Darren MacLean’s Calgary restaurant was also named Best Restaurant in Western Canada and took the Highest New Entry Award. eightcdn.ca
Vaycay Brew Co. has opened its second-floor lounge in Calgary’s Marda Loop, above their taproom. With old school music and a tropical vibe, this lounge-meets-pub (there are two dartboards) has a cocktail bar, comfy couches, and a Chef’s Bar with fresh food (tuna nachos are here!). It’s perfect for events too, with the half sun/half shade sheltered patio, and outdoor games. Cocktail-forward, with 20 taps (beers from Vaycay’s friends too) and non-alcs, boxed lunches outside and plated meals inside. 2248 33 Avenue SW, vaycaybrew.co
La Mesa is Edmonton's newest Filipino restaurant, in the former Agora Greek Market space at 4620 99 Street NW. Chefs Benji, Czar, and Garry, are creating a delicious Filipino-inspired menu with Spanish influences in an elegant, candlelit setting with dark wood walls and a beautiful bar. A perfect spot for date night or a special evening out. Seven days, Sundays only for events. lamesarestaurant.ca
Romero Distilling has opened an intimate lounge and cocktail bar inside the Calgary distillery at 688 Heritage Drive SE, with an elevated prohibitionera cocktail menu and an elevated food menu of shareable plates and handhelds to match. A full bar with wine and beer too! Tuesday-Saturday 10am-close, romerolounge.ca
Finally! Felina’s speakeasy is open upstairs above the taproom at Tailgunner Brewing. It’s been a while
coming, but we’re happy as there are so many requests for events downstairs, and now there’s a private space, completely soundproofed, for 40-ish people to meet, eat from the brilliant, small sharing snack menu from Acme Pizza (downstairs taproom menu available too!), and enjoy excellent cocktails, wine, and beer, with soulful house lounge music. 1602 10th Avenue SW, Calgary. Thursday-Saturday, 5pm-late, tailgunnerbrewing.ca
Edmontonians - get your fix of gourmet marshmallows and s'mores at Marshy Mallows, 8115 Gateway Boulevard. Handmade marshmallows come in clever collections such as the Garden Party Collection and the Little Luxuries Basket, or pick up individual marshmallows to try all the unique flavours. Perfect for gifting or simply treating yourself! marshymallows.ca
Another hit from Calgary’s Block Hospitality! As Kensington’s Hayden Block celebrates 10 years, they’ve opened Stable Palms Club down the street at 1153 Kensington Crescent NW, totally (and beautifully) refurbished from the former Freehouse, a mammoth task by Way of Normal interior designers. A similar feel to their Blue Rock Swim Club, this was originally a stable eons ago, and now it has Cali cocktail bar vibes and steady hands behind the central sunken bar… There’s a huge list of cocktails (try the signature, Pickle Martini!) and they’ll also create cocktails to your preference, sweet, spicy, savoury, and non-alcs. Chef Jordan Mayo’s menu has so many choices – and we’ve discovered they’re all unmissable. With a wood burning pizza oven and grill, a raw
menu, pizzetta and pastas, and a crazy good, local, half wagyu burger (face down in an incredible jus.) that comes with fries and sake aioli (!). There are many different areas with high and low seatings, and a small semi-private dining room. Watch out - they’re opening for lunch and the patio’s open too! Seven days, stablepalmsclub.com
Downtown Edmonton is now home to Solar, a new breakfast and lunch spot from the folks behind Cask and Barrel and Rocky Mountain Icehouse. The space is bright and welcoming, as perfect for a relaxed brunch with friends as a quick stop for coffee before work. 10357 Jasper Avenue. solarbrunch.ca
Calgary’s Dorian Hotel is host to The Magic Table, a new 3D, immersive dining experience that is so clever, you’ll be totally enthralled! It’s excellent entertainment, with a superb five-course meal (and exemplary cooked steak!) that we enjoyed as much as the show (veggie and kids’ menus offered too). Get the pairing or share it, and take lots of photos – there’s a magic wand and hat too. A wonderful evening out; dinner and a show, and you can still talk to your dining partner. 525 5 Avenue SW, ThursdaySunday, themagictable.com
Alberta - get your appetites ready! Taste of Edmonton is July 16–26 at Sir Winston Churchill Square, and Taste of Calgary, July 30–August 3 at Cowboys Park. Download maps and menus to see the list of vendors and what they're serving! tasteofedmonton.com, tasteofcalgary.com
Kathie the Mail Girl’s Mother’s Cookies
-and other good things from my grandma’s recipe box
By Julie Van Rosendaal Dinner with Julie, $20
It’s always with a sense of enthusiasm when we get our hands on a book from Julie Van Rosendaal, who, perhaps like no other around here, feels and shares the connection we have of just having great food, fun food, and fine treats that bring people together.
As someone who’s own family (at least maternally) hails from southern Ontario (by way of a little burg called Shelbourne), I too can completely relate to the history and challenges of interpreting familial dishes – as Van Rosendaal delightfully puts it, “I adore the brevity of old recipes”, but for the uninitiated, deciphering those ancient recipe cards can be a challenge, especially when the weight of tradition, nostalgia, and memory sometimes demand near perfection. Van Rosendaal has skillfully navigated the challenges of old family recipes and framed them in such a way that you may get closer than you'd think when looking at tackling your own heirloom dishes.
Comprising about 60 recipes, broken out into various groupings like cookies, squares and balls, pies and pastries, and the like, I often found that I knew some of these items under slightly different names in my own family history. You’d likely want to try Aunt Maud’s Yorkshire Pudding (p.17) and Nancy Carroll’s Mother’s Shortbread (p.30) if you need to find a new favourite version. Hello Dollies (p.48) are a blast from the past for many who know them as “Dream Bars”, and a delightful recipe for Grandmother Woodall’s Butter Tarts (p.78) which have currants, but raisins are optional. The list goes on, and all written with clear directions, some options when needed, and some appreciated explanations where those traditional recipes might benefit from some clarity – ever had to guess how much a “lump of butter” is?
Possibly my favourite of Julie Van Rosendaal’s cookbooks, and in many ways, the most meaningful so far for bridging the gap of memories of childhood family gatherings, thinking about and enjoying sweet treats that bring you back, and sharing those once lost culinary memories with friends and family of a “certain age”, and perhaps those youngsters looking for their own memories.
Flame On!
We’re getting back to our Cro-Magnon roots this summer and embracing the oldest form of cooking: open flame. There’s really nothing like the sounds, smells, and the mouth-watering result of a meal prepared on the fire, and these Alberta chefs can attest to that with the recipes they’re bringing to the table.
BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM
Disclaimer: ‘open flame’ is a bit misleading when it comes to cooking, so let’s start with a few quick tips:
1. Those gorgeous big flames you love so much? They’re not going to help with the cooking. Instead, let your flames die down a bit and develop a good bed of hot embers.
2. Some like it hot and cold: whether
At Calgary’s Foxtrot, there’s one ingredient that is more or less a constant in every menu item: open flame. Executive Chef Matthias Fong says the key to cooking well over the fire, whether it’s in a restaurant, a backyard charcoal grill, or a self-dug fire pit on a beach, is managing temperature. “If the fire is made too hot you’ll have difficulty cooking, but not adding enough fuel early enough is also a mistake many people make.”
With dishes like Wood-Grilled Calamari and Charcoal-Roasted Sablefish on the menu, it’s safe to say that Chef Matthias knows his way around a fire. For him, his favourite dish is the Dry-Aged Duck. “It’s a labour of love. The dry aging makes the skin perfectly crisp when rendered, and it’s served with caramelized yogurt sauce and fermented rhubarb preserve.”
His recipe for Charcoal Grilled Dungeness Crab is inspired by family camping trips on the BC coast. “We’d catch crab and dig up clams and cook them on
our campfire. The scent of fresh seafood on a campfire grill makes me nostalgic to this day.”
Make sure you get fresh crab and that it’s properly cleaned, and put together the pineapple salad in advance so all you need to do is grill and serve. “Eating the crab while it’s warm is a much better experience,” he adds.
Charcoal Grilled Dungeness
Crab with a Chili Lime Dipping Sauce
Serves 2
1 whole live dungeness crab
1 Tbs garlic finely chopped
110 g butter
Dipping sauce
5 Tbs (75 mL) Cholula green pepper hot sauce
1 tsp granulated sugar
1/3 cup + 4 tsp (100 mL) fresh lime juice
you’re using a charcoal grill, smoker, or fire pit, create a hot zone and a cooler zone to give you control and move food around as needed.
3. Patience is key, from letting the flames settle to allowing proteins to rest after cooking. The juices will redistribute and result in a tender, flavourful final dish.
Grilled Pineapple and Herb Salad
½ pineapple, cleaned and cut into bitesized pieces
Fresh basil leaves
Fresh cilantro leaves
Fresh mint leaves
½ tsp sambal
½ tsp fish sauce
1 Tbs (15 mL) lime juice
1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice
½ tsp honey
Salt to taste
1. Clean the crab and separate legs into sections. Most vendors who sell live crab will also do this for you. Steam the crab for 7-8 minutes.
2. Heat the butter until it begins to brown then add the garlic and fry for 10 seconds. Toss the steamed crab with the butter and garlic.
3. Prepare the grill and grill the legs 2-3 minutes on each side as well as the pineapple for the salad.
4. Combine the dipping sauce ingredients.
5. To serve, combine the pineapple salad ingredients in a mixing bowl. Place on the base of a platter and place the grilled crab on top. Crack the legs and enjoy with the dipping sauce.
Fire is at the heart of the menu at Edmonton’s Woodwork, and it’s also central to Chef Trevor Johnston’s life outside the restaurant. “My family and I love spending time outdoors. Camping, hunting, and fishing are a big part of our lives.”
In the kitchen he combines locally sourced ingredients with open flame, resulting in dishes like Smoked Pork Ribs, Brome Lake Duck Breast, and his favourite, Woodwork Sausage. “I enjoy the process of making it and coming up with new flavour combinations.”
When it comes to cooking over the fire, he advises paying attention to what you’re using for fuel. “Be mindful of the wood you’re using as it can really affect the flavours of your dish.” He recommends tamarack or birch, and says to be patient and let the flames die down to hot coals before you start cooking. “Coals give both a better flavour and more consistent temperature.”
Campfire Chicken with Portabellas and Succotash was created with cooking outdoors in mind. “It’s a lighter dish with fresh flavours that can be enjoyed on a warm summer evening.”
Drying the chicken skin before oiling is the key to a better sear and to prevent sticking. And take your time cooking the chicken to prevent it from drying out.
Campfire Chicken with Portabellas and Succotash Serves 4
4 chicken supremes
40 g kosher salt (plus more for seasoning)
2 L water
2 Tbs (30 mL) light soya sauce
2 tsp minced ginger
1 clove of minced garlic
1 Tbs dark brown sugar
2 large portabella mushrooms
1 bunch kale
4 corn cobs
2 red bell peppers, skinned and deseeded, medium dice
As needed canola oil, for grilling
2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil (plus more for finishing)
1-2 lemons, halved
To taste black pepper
Pinch Maldon salt
1. To brine chicken dissolve 40 g salt into 2 L water. Submerge chicken into brine for 3-4 hours. Remove from brine and pat dry with a paper towel.
2. Combine soya sauce, ginger, garlic, and brown sugar, and add mushrooms. Marinate in a sealed bag pressing out as much air from the bag as possible. Let marinate for 2-3 hours.
3. Remove stems from kale and tear into medium sized pieces, massage with a pinch of salt until tender, set aside.
4. Coat corn and peppers with oil and grill over coals until lightly charred and cooked through.
5. Grill lemon halves until very dark.
6. Cut corn from the cobs and combine peppers, corn, and kale with olive oil. Season with grilled lemon juice, fresh ground black pepper and salt to taste.
(reserve at least half a lemon for finishing). Set aside and keep warm.
7. Coat brined chicken with oil and lightly season. Cook over hot coals, start directly over coals to get a good sear then flip and move the chicken slightly off the coals to finish cooking slowly over indirect heat. Keep the thicker part of the breast closer to the coals to ensure even cooking. Cook chicken to 165º F.
8. While the chicken is cooking grill the marinated mushrooms, brushing them with marinade while they cook. Once cooked allow them to rest.
9. Divide the warm succotash between four plates, creating a base. Slice the grilled mushrooms 6 mm thick and fan out over a third of the top of the succotash. Place one chicken breast on top so the succotash and mushroom are still visible. Finish with a squeeze of grilled lemon and a pinch of Maldon salt.
Jeff Lusis, at True Wild Distilling, is candid about where he gets his inspiration from: “I just steal ideas from better chefs.” But what it boils down to is someone who knows that in the kitchen, instinct is as important as technique. What he eats ignites his imagination, and he also admits to a fascination with using fire and smoke in his cooking.
“Airflow is everything when it comes to cooking over the fire,” says Chef
Jeff. “Don’t cram your grill full of fuel and expect it to behave. Fire needs to breathe.” Use a fan or adjust vents to bring heat up when needed, and dial back flare-ups. “Control, not volume, is what separates a good cook from a great one over live fire.”
A recipe for open flame shouldn’t be complicated. BBQ Short Ribs is perfect for home chefs, and both satisfying and honest. “The dish came from a restaurant I love, made by someone I respect, and it tastes nice. Sometimes, a recipe doesn’t need a grand origin story. It just needs to be good.”
He suggests sourcing this cut of rib at Korean grocery stores, but you may also have luck at Costco or T&T. The marinade is high in sugar, ensuring a gorgeous, sticky char on the grill. “Don’t rush the cook,” he adds, “and don’t skip the mustard and pickles. The acidity cuts through the richness and makes the dish.”
BBQ Short Ribs with Mustard and Pickles
Serves 4
8 beef short ribs, cut into 1 cm strips across the bones.
1. Blend pineapple and onion together and press through a fine mesh strainer reserving the juice.
2. Combine the remaining ingredients with the pineapple and onion juice in a bowl.
3. Using an appropriately sized nonreactive container place the ribs into the marinade one at a time to ensure coverage. Marinate for 4 hours prior to grilling.
4. Remove ribs from marinade and grill over well-lit charcoal turning frequently until the beef is charred and cooked through but still juicy. The high sugar marinade will find balance with the char from the grill.
5. Serve next to 3 or 4 different pickles and cheongyang pepper condiment you picked up from the Korean Market while you were getting your short ribs. For a more substantial meal add lettuce and perilla leaves to make wraps, and a side of rice.
The foundations of Chef Adam Walch-Fuhrer’s cooking style were built early in life, first by his grandmother, and then later by his father. “From my nana, I inherited a respect for technique, tradition, and cooking from scratch. From my father, I developed a passion for firecooked food and the simple pleasure of bringing people together around a meal.”
The lessons learned from his family continue to shape his approach to cooking. As Executive Chef of Barbacoa in Spruce Grove, Chef Adam creates dishes that range from a classic Beef Wellington, a dish that “demands both precision and consistency,” to Braised Beef Short Rib Tacos. “No matter how refined my cooking becomes, a great taco will always make me happy.”
When cooking with fire, Chef advises: “Don’t underestimate the importance of seasoning. You don’t need much: salt applied generously before cooking and using a finishing salt like Maldon after grilling can make all the difference.” And don’t be afraid of a little char. “A properly caramelized crust on a steak can add incredible depth and complexity to a dish.”
Grilled Ribeye with Bourbon Mushrooms is as gourmet as it sounds, but it’s also approachable, says Chef Adam. There’s no special equipment or advanced culinary technique needed, but he does suggest investing in an instant-read thermometer to get your temperature right. And as always, prep ahead of time as much as possible. “Fire cooking moves quickly, and staying organized makes the experience far more enjoyable.”
Grilled Ribeye with Bourbon Mushrooms, Fire-Roasted Roots and Tallow Potatoes
Serves 2-4
2 ribeye steaks, 275-330 g each
Kosher salt
4 Tbs (60 mL) beef tallow or canola oil
1 Tbs butter, optional
Fresh thyme, optional
Brush meat with tallow or oil, and season generously with salt. The thicker the steak, the more salt you will need. Let steaks sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. Grill over medium-high heat for 3–5 minutes per
side, depending on thickness, until nicely charred and cooked to your preferred doneness. For medium rare, aim for an internal temperature of about 115° F before resting. Let the steak rest for 8–10 minutes before slicing.
Tallow potatoes:
450 g fingerling potatoes, halved lengthways
2 Tbs beef tallow
To taste salt and pepper
1 Tbs (15 mL) garlic oil
Fresh herbs, optional
Preheat the oven to 425° F. Toss fingerling potatoes with tallow, salt, and pepper. Place cut-side down on a baking tray and roast for 25–35 minutes until golden, crispy, and tender. Once cooked, toss with garlic oil and fresh herbs if desired.
Bourbon mushrooms:
1 Tbs butter
1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil
2 cups mushrooms, sliced or torn
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
Fresh thyme
¼ cup (60 mL) bourbon
½ cup (125 mL) beef stock
1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard
To taste salt and pepper
Place a cast iron pan over the grill or stovetop on medium-high heat. Add butter and olive oil, then add the mushrooms.
Cook until they begin to brown. Add shallot, garlic, and thyme, then cook for another minute. Carefully add the bourbon and let it reduce by half. Add stock and mustard, then simmer until the mushrooms are glossy and the sauce has thickened slightly. Season to taste.
Fire-roasted root vegetables:
2 carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces 2 beets, peeled and cut into wedges
2 parsnips, peeled and cut into large pieces
2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil
To taste salt and pepper
¼ cup goat cheese
Fresh chives, sliced
Toss the carrots, beets, and parsnips with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Grill them over medium heat until lightly charred and just tender. If cooking indoors, roast them at 425° F until caramelized. Once cooked, place the vegetables into a cast iron pan, crumble goat cheese over the top, and place back on the grill with the lid closed until the cheese softens. For extra colour, lightly torch the goat cheese. Finish with fresh chives.
To serve, place the roasted vegetables and crispy potatoes on the plate. Slice the ribeye against the grain and spoon the bourbon-braised mushrooms over the top. Finish with a little flaky salt, fresh chives, and a drizzle of garlic oil if desired.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.
The Search for Calgary's BEST BIRRIA
BY QUINN CURTIS
Birria has taken the world by storm in recent years. Thanks in part to growing trends on social media, this slow-cooked meat dish has become a staple on many of Calgary's Mexican restaurant menus. But what exactly is birria, anyway?
Evelyn Vera Barreto is the Head Consul of Mexico in Calgary, and a birria connoisseur. She describes birria as one of the most iconic and traditional dishes in the state of Jalisco, Mexico.
“Birria is a slow-cooked stew made with goat or beef and a variety of chiles, spices, and herbs. Its origins can be traced
WHAT MAKES THE PERFECT BIRRIA?
What were we looking for?
* THE BROTH OR CONSOMMÉ How good is the birria broth or sauce? Does it have good consistency and deep, complex flavours? Is there some heat?
* THE MEAT Was the meat lean? Was it slow-cooked? Is it tender? Is the quantity and quality of the meat appropriate for the dish?
* THE PRESENTATION AND ACCOMPANIMENTS
How does the dish look? Is the presentation appealing? Does it include tortillas, lime, beans, salsa? Are there other accompaniments? How is their flavour and texture?
* THE RECOMMENDATION
With double the marks of the other criteria, how likely are you to order this again? Would you recommend it to a friend? Would birria enthusiasts enjoy this dish?
back to the 16th century, when Spaniards introduced goats to the continent.
Because of the overpopulation of goats, the Spaniards decided to give some away to the Indigenous community of Sayula, in Jalisco, with the intention of causing indigestion because of the meat's rough texture. Colloquially, birria is something of little value or poor quality, hence the goat dish was supposed to be a low-quality dish, a ‘birria.’ Much to the Spaniards' surprise, the local community found a way to season and cook the meat to soften it and enhance its flavour. The result was a dish that captivated the
WE'VE SPLIT OUR AWARDS INTO FIVE DISTINCT CATEGORIES:
Spaniards' taste buds, and one that has become an icon in Mexican gastronomy.
In short, birria is a dish without a specific recipe, but it consists of meat cooked for a long time until very tender, and accompanied by a spicy, well-balanced, and flavourful sauce.”
So, in collaboration with the Mexican Consulate, we set out to find Calgary's best birria, asking our readers and social media followers to nominate their favourite birria restaurants – and they really showed up. With more than 30 nominated restaurants, our judges set out to determine which restaurant would claim the title.
5
BEST TRADITIONAL BIRRIA
BEST OVERALL BIRRIA
The highest-scoring restaurant among all our judges, with strong ratings in every category.
BEST CONTEMPORARY
BIRRIA Awarded to the restaurant that pushed birria beyond tradition through creative ingredients, modern techniques, or unique presentations while still delivering the rich flavours that make birria so beloved.
1 2 3
BEST QUESABIRRIA
Slow-cooked meat in a corn tortilla with Oaxaca cheese generously layered inside and fried until melted and gooey, creating a crispy exterior.
4
BEST BIRRIA CONSOMMÉ
The rich and flavourful broth created by slowcooking meat and chiles, and used as a dipping sauce for crispy tacos.
The rich, savoury, Mexican stew featuring flavourful broth and slow-cooked meat, typically served with tortillas and classic accompaniments such as lime, cilantro, and onion.
“The cooking process must include patience and excellent seasoning, and the preparation must use traditional Mexican ingredients such as ancho and guajillo chiles, ripe tomatoes, white onion, and garlic cloves. The ingredients and preparation make birria a unique dish that allows you to enjoy what was once considered a low-quality meat through a flavourful dish with a delicious consommé,” says Sebastián Galván Duque, Deputy Consul (Cónsul Adscrito) of Mexico in Calgary.
“Despite being more than 4,300 km from Jalisco, the birthplace of birria, we enjoyed delicious dishes with authentic flavours, rich chile-infused consomés, handmade tortillas, and the soul of a dish created from ingredients that were once considered a ‘birria,’” adds Consul Vera Barreto.
We're delighted to announce the winners of Calgary's Best Birria below, along with comments from our judges explaining why each restaurant stood out. The Highly Recommended winners are in alphabetical order.
1
Best Overall Birria
MEXICO CITY MEXICAN FOOD @mexicocitycalgary
“Mexico City Restaurant transports you to a typical fonda in any Mexican town; from the decor to the flavour of the food, everything feels authentic and as delicious as if your aunties were cooking it.” EVB
“Rosa Maria has been making her mother-in-law's birria recipe for 25 years, and there's nothing to fault here. The broth is very authentic — a large bowl that is flavourful and delicious — and you can add more heat with the smoky chipotle sauce and serranojalapeño sauces provided.” LG
2
AÑEJO anejo.ca
“A beautiful dish — a good broth and three flour tortillas with Oaxaca cheese and salsa cascabel, all overflowing with filling. I love that they also offer chicken and vegetarian birrias with matching broths. These are really good tacos: overstuffed, juicy, and delicious.” LG
Highly Recommended Contemporary Birria
FONDA FORA fondafora.com
“The meat is a huge hunk of 16-hour braised short rib, and it's really well done — it simply falls apart. It's an impressive dish meant for sharing. I tried my best to finish it, but I suspect it's intended for three people. This is an elevated restaurant dish.” LG
MILPA milpa.ca
“Milpa offers a contemporary vision to Mexican gastronomy. Their quesabirria with the extra kick offers a unique taste to a traditional dish. You will definitely want to order more!” SGD
VAYCAY BREWPUB vaycaybrew.co
“A novel and creative way to serve birria, stuffed into taquitos. Two crunchy taquitos with a flavourful broth and avocado sauce for dipping hit the spot. Pure comfort food — satisfying and delicious. Come hungry for these.” LG
3
Best
QuesaBirria
DON TACO dontacoyyc.com
“Now we know why there's a 45-minute wait for takeout. This went down in about three bites. Every bite is consistent and flavourful, and I was blown away by the smoked brisket, wrapped in banana leaf, and slow braised in broth. Tender, lean, and beautifully cooked. Every bite was delicious.” KS
Highly Recommended Quesabirria
BIRRIA CANTINA birriacantina.com
“The beef flavour is excellent— prominent without overpowering. There's a great blend of spices, and the meat is tender and slow-cooked. This is the kind of birria you crave after too many margaritas the night before. Come hungry because these are incredibly satisfying.” KS
EL CHEFE @elchefecalgary
“You can tell immediately this is a community favourite - it’s friendly and energetic, and every customer had a smile on their face. I left with a smile too, it’s hard not to after eating such a fantastic birria taco, stuffed full of tender, juicy beef and a tortilla crisped to perfection.” QC
TACO LIBRE tacolibre.ca
“Taco Libre is a restaurant with a great atmosphere, themed around the traditional Mexican Lucha Libre; not only do you eat well, but you also enjoy the ambiance and decor.” EVB
4
Best Birria
COnsOmmé
BODEGA MEXICAN RESTAURANT
@bodega.restaurant
“Good value and a nicely cooked, wellpresented meal. A complete plate with cheese, meat, avocado sauce, guacamole, chips, and plenty of lime. The broth is rich and flavourful, with a touch of spice, onions, and cilantro.” LG
“A beautifully authentic taco with tender beef and a fresh corn tortilla served with delicious red and green salsa and loaded up with plenty of cilantro and onion. The consommé is deeply flavourful and has a gorgeous vibrant colour from all the chilis, a perfect addition to the tacos.” QC
SALSITA salsita.ca
“Everything you could want in a birria taco, inside a Mexican grocery store stocked with everything you could want to buy. This broth was rich and complex, yet perfectly balanced with just the right amount of spice, tanginess, sweetness, and saltiness. I couldn't stop eating these tacos despite already starting to feel full.” QC
Mexico City
Fonda Fora
Bodega Mexican Restaurant
Añejo
THE BURRITO MEXICAN FOOD theburritomexicanfood.com
“A dish that truly warms the soul, served traditionally in a rich bowl of broth with slow-cooked meat and fresh, warm tortillas on the side. Fill the tortillas with the tender, flavourful meat and enjoy one of those meals you simply can't find in many places. It's the kind of dish you'll be thinking about for days afterward.” QC
Many thanks to Edmonton International Airport Air Cargo Development Mexico for their support of the competition, and to Calgary’s Inkless Engraving Services for the beautiful plaques awarded to the winners
OUR JUDGES
Vera Barreto
Sebastián Galván Duque (SGD) Deputy Consul of Mexico in Calgary
Linda Garson (LG) Editor-in-Chief and publisher of Culinaire
With the aim of recognizing authentic Mexican cuisine abroad, the Government of Mexico and the Mexican Academy of Gastronomy award the “M Seal” to restaurants distinguished by the authenticity and quality of their Mexican food.
We are thrilled to announce that two Calgary restaurants have been recognized with the M Seal: Golden Cactus and Mexico City.
Quinn Curtis recently graduated from journalism school and is a contributing editor with Culinaire.
Keane Straub (KS) Culinaire’s Digital Media Editor
Curtis
Evelyn
(EVB) Head Consul of Mexico in Calgary
Quinn
(QC) Contributing editor with Culinaire
GO SOUTHAlberta Style
BY LYNDA SEA
Together, Lethbridge County, Coaldale, and Taber make up a major agri-food sector in Southern Alberta that provides quality local ingredients to the area. The region has branded itself Canada’s Premier Food Corridor (CPFC) and produces over 54 specialty crops.
The Crowsnest Pass also boasts a variety of restaurants from casual eateries to fine dining experiences. So whether you’re day tripping to Lethbridge and area or passing through this area on your way to BC or Saskatchewan this summer, stop at Southern Alberta’s small towns and urban eateries along Highway 3 to taste what these prairie communities have to offer.
MAMA LA (Lethbridge)
This bright and modern Vietnamese restaurant on Lethbridge’s westside has a reputation for its huge portions of comfort foods and traditional dishes of pho, vermicelli, and banh mi. Think soups laden with punchy flavours like the sweet and sour tamarind broth with shrimp, pineapple, tomatoes, sprouts, and celery, served with rice or vermicelli noodles. Don’t miss the rice paper papaya salad with fresh mango and papaya, onion, carrots and fish sauce. The BBQ Pork Banh Mi is a perfect lunch option with sliced pork in sweet char sui barbecue sauce and the usual fixings of paté, mayo, pickled carrots, onions, cucumber, cilantro, and jalapenos. Quench your thirst with any of their
signature drinks like the Vietnam Airlines (blue sweetened peapod Jasmine milk tea) or a blended mango fruit smoothie. mamala.ca
LITTLE NICARAGUA COFFEE COMPANY (Lethbridge)
Ask anyone about great coffee and brunch in Lethbridge and locals will tell you, without hesitation, Little Nicaragua is the place to go. This coffee shop in the city’s north is co-owned by brothers-inlaw Dylan Morris and David Ubeda who locally roast coffee beans sourced straight from Nicaragua where Ubeda’s family has a history of coffee farming. Grab a table in the bustling and colourful restaurant for weekend brunch which is only available
Courtesy Tourism Lethbridge
on Saturdays. Order the Tipicos breakfast, a heaping plate of food that’s a traditional Nicaraguan inspired breakfast of two eggs, two pieces of bacon and salami with gallo pinto (beans and rice), fried cheese and fried plantain with avocado, tomatoes, and handmade tortillas. They also sell spudnuts (potato doughnuts), coffee to go and specialty coffee items like filters, mugs, kettles, and bags of Little Nicaragua coffee beans to enjoy at home.
STEEL AND VINES WINE BISTRO (Lethbridge)
This intimate downtown winebar in Lethbridge opened five years ago and is known as one of the top fine dining options in Lethbridge. Founded and run by Jenna and Dave Low, Steel and Vines highlights local and small producers through its chef-inspired menu of small plates and entrees, which pair with curated cocktails and unique wines. The dishes speak for themselves, like the black cod entree which is perfectly cooked crispyskin cod served with warm potato salad, preserved lemon, and tarragon buttermilk dressing. Or the brussels sprouts with pork belly, Korean pepper vinaigrette, and black sesame. A fan favourite is the sublime burrata, a perfect summer dish with smoked beets, sunflower shoots, pistachio, maple balsamic, and arugula oil. Steel and Vines also hosts wine tastings, pairing menus, cocktail classes, and chef’s table experiences where exclusive offmenu wines are chosen by the chef to complement the food. steelandvines.com
ANTOJITOS LATIN MARKET & CAFE (Lethbridge)
Lethbridge resident Yeny Mora started Antojitos as a booth at the Lethbridge Farmers’ Market selling Latin-American food that spoke to her Colombian background. In 2023, she opened a downtown restaurant and storefront to offer the Mexican and Cuban-inspired fare that she had built a reputation for, only now with casual table service. Highlights on the menu are the Patacon - Con Todo, a popular Colombian street food dish, that’s fried green plantain topped with meat, beans, chorizo, fresh avocado, and peppers with cheese chipotle mayo. You won’t regret the loaded Antojitos french fries with longaniza sausage, pork belly, corn, melted cheese, and Antojitos sauce with pink mayo. The market shelves lining the restaurant are stocked with imported grocery items like spices, sauces, canned goods, snacks and frozen empanadas, arepas, and tortillas, to take home. antojitosfoods.ca
LIGHTHOUSE JAPANESE RESTAURANT (Lethbridge)
Arguably one of the best sushi spots in Lethbridge, Lighthouse is known for simple, high-quality nigiri and sashimi at reasonable prices. The rolls are precisely prepared with fresh ingredients flown in daily from Canada’s coasts and Japan, and all the sauces are made from scratch. Chef Yukinari Takahashi is the man behind Lighthouse’s menu of traditional Japanese favourites and creative specialties. He completed his apprenticeship and journeyman training in Japan and brings 25 years
of experience to the kitchen. You’ll find traditional futomaki rolls, sushi pizza, and unique items like the Sansai cuttlefish with vegetables, sesame and citrus dressing, and just-right battered assorted tempura. Service here is top-notch and the result is a comfortable, relaxed dining experience. lighthousesushi.com
COULEE CAFE (Taber)
Located on the outskirts of Taber and housed in a building called Coulee Place, Coulee Cafe’s unassuming exterior looks like an office and a medical clinic, but don’t be fooled. Head upstairs and you’ll find sweet treats, baked goods and a breakfast and lunch menu where local farms and suppliers are the focus. Their Cheddar Smash burger features a patty made with Vauxhall Meats ground beef, Big Marble tomatoes, local greens, red onion from Gouw Farms, garlic and mayo, on a fresh baked bun. The Brisket Bacon Bowl uses local eggs, house-smoked Vauxhall Meats brisket, Berkshire bacon from Broek Pork Acres, and house-smoked Crystal Springs Cheddar, finished with potato wedges and everything sauce. They also serve hand-crafted coffees, specialty drinks, and dirty sodas. For grab-and-go options, find delicious pastries, muffins, and cakes. The cafe also sells honey from ChickBee’z, and Crystal Springs Dairy cheese curds and local milk, butter, and Bles Wold yoghurt in the fridge. couleecafe.ca
CATTLEMEN'S CHOPHOUSE (Taber)
This swanky steakhouse is housed in Taber’s historic 1912 old Imperial Bank building downtown and uses beef raised in South Alberta as well as fresh ingredients from local farms, greenhouses, and ranches. The huge menu features many flavourful dishes from perfectly grilled juicy Alberta steaks and crisp salads to globally inspired appetizers. Whether you order the steak and fries, a 12-ounce New York Striploin served with Madagascar whiskey peppercorn sauce with house-cut fries, or the Tan-Wich, a tandoori-spiced chicken thigh with lettuce and chopped Indian kachumber salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, and herbs, in lemon) with mint-chutney between a brioche
bun, the presentation is always precise and the service, quick. For an even quicker casual meal, ask to be seated at the sheltered outdoor patio, and enjoy a cocktail with any of their stone-fired pizzas, where the homemade dough is made with stone-milled semolina flour. cattlemenschophouse.ca
COALDALE BAKERY (Coaldale)
For more than 40 years, this European-style bakery and Dutch import store has been a community staple in the town of Coaldale. Open since 1986, this bakery, shop, and café offers a wide variety of freshly baked goods like danishes, croissants, cinnamon buns, turnovers, bagels, breads, buns, and doughnuts. Dessert-lovers with a sweet tooth will revel in their eye-popping display of cream pies, slices of tiramisu and cheesecakes, to chocolate eclairs and meringues, and cupcakes. Coaldale Bakery uses real whipping cream in their cakes and one of their most popular items is the whipped cream cake which comes in either white or chocolate cake iced in whipped cream, and layered with custard and whipped cream with fruit and pieces of chocolate. Find rye sourdough bread made from their very own starter, Austrian whole-grain bread, and countless Dutch goodies, like liquorice candies, stroopwafel biscuits, and more in the store. There’s always a line-up here, but the wait is never long as it moves fast. coaldalebakery.com
LOST THINGS DISTILLERY
(Pincher Creek)
This Pincher creek distillery and tasting room offers tourists and locals a
cozy and welcoming space to sip cocktails and enjoy live music. Co-owners Rachel Van Bussel and Jennifer Parker have garnered international attention for their small-batch award-winning craft gins, liqueurs, and spirits, made from locally foraged ingredients. The flagship Wild Forage Gin made with botanicals like juniper, angelica roots, and pine tips won gold at the Canadian Artisan Spirit Competition. A great summer sip is the Huckleberry Tea Liqueur made from wild Alberta huckleberries and its leaves - its honey and floral notes mean it mixes well with lemonade, in an iced tea latte, or on its own. The tasting room, filled with curated antiques, often hosts open mic nights, live concerts and artisan workshops. Come and try cocktails like the Pincher Creek Paradise (passionfruit juice, Wild Forage Gin, and liquor) with almonds, pretzels, or a charcuterie board. You can even order takeout or delivery from local restaurants to enjoy here. lostthingsdistillery.ca
THE PASS BEER CO (Blairemore)
Make sure to stop at The Pass this summer to savour Alberta craft beers and wood-fired pizzas on its huge, pet-friendly outdoor patio and beer garden. The green space faces an impressive Rocky Mountain view so you can sample a flight of crispy lagers to hoppy IPAs as you enjoy poutine, nachos, or ‘sammiches’ which are made with fresh-baked pizza dough and filled with fresh toppings. Standout pizza options include the Diavola which has pizza sauce, spicy Italian sausage, salami, olives, jalapeños, and fior di latte, finished
with basil, and the Italian Easter, which is Italian sausage, ham, salami, mozza, pepperoni, on a herb ricotta base topped with shredded parmesan. You also can’t go wrong with an order of the Furious Fries topped with their secret spicy parmesan garlic sauce and green onions. passbeer.ca
ONEMORE RESTAURANT (Coleman)
Local and seasonal is the name of the game at Chef Adam Tundak’s contemporary casual restaurant in downtown Coleman. His ‘New Canadian’ menu has global flavours but features mostly sharing plates with regional ingredients sourced from local farms across Alberta, BC, and Saskatchewan. Tundak has trained in Paris and the Michelin-starred NoMad Hotel in New York and brings classic French techniques with bold Korean, Japanese and Polish flavours to his cooking. The Pork Bo Ssam features Broek Acres Berkshire pork shoulder that has been sous vide cooked for 24 hours, and served as build your own wraps with butterleaf lettuce, carrots, sprouts, gochujang sauce, and rice. Try the Beef steak, a take on the Chicago Hot Beef sandwich, made with Alberta flat iron beef, stewed hot, sweet peppers, and onion, red pepper rouille, and tangy antipasto. A crowd favourite is the umami popcorn with brown butter, nutritional yeast, and porcini powder, which is a great pre- or post-meal snack. 1morerestaurant.com
Coaldale Bakery
Lost Things Distillery, courtesy Abuvmedia 2024
Onemore Restaurant, courtesy MLV Imagery
Lynda is an award-winning writer based in Lethbridge. Her writing has appeared in Avenue, Westjet Magazine, enRoute and Flare. You can often find her hiking in the Canadian Rockies and eating her way through Alberta.
A MODERN 'NEIGHBOURHOOD' ITALIAN RESTAURANT offering a variety of classic pasta, antipasti, pizza, and entrata dishes made from scratch using the freshest ingredients. Our location boasts a substantial wine cellar, innovative cocktails, and local craft beer. Showcasing exposed brick and soft colours our downtown restaurant space honours the iconic building located along historic Stephen Avenue. It also boasts a great private dining room, which seats up to 10 guests.
111 8 Avenue SW, annabelleskitchen.ca
A vibrant gastropub and event space in the historic Bank of Nova Scotia building in the heart of downtown Calgary on Stephen Ave. Built in the 1930, it seamlessly blends stunning Modern Classical and Art Deco architecture with the traditional Pub. With a central bar that plays off the glass ceiling, to the main vault that echoes times past, this Pub is a reflection of how Calgary has merged the old with the new. The Bank and Baron is known for upscale pub grub, a bar that boasts 26 beers on tap, signature cocktails and a stunning atmosphere that elevates any gathering big or small.
Welcomes You Back!
For generations, Stephen Avenue has been Calgary’s main street—a place where history, architecture, culture, commerce, and hospitality come together in the heart of downtown.
Home to some of the city’s most iconic buildings, restaurants, bars, hotels, and gathering places, Stephen Avenue has long been where Calgarians celebrate milestones, host visitors, and experience the best our city has to offer.
Today, as the street continues its revitalization and renewal, we are excited to welcome guests back to a refreshed Stephen Avenue. More than just a destination, Stephen Avenue remains a symbol of Calgary’s past, present, and future—and there has never been a better time to rediscover it.
NEW LOOK. NEW FEEL.
BEAR & KILT has been serving Calgary since 1993 and is one of the premier local pubs with an amazing cozy atmosphere and excellent food.
Snug basement pub with a chill vibe offering daily food specials & local beers, plus darts & pool.
This eating establishment serves breakfast and lunch conveniently located within walking distance from downtown hotels with a wide variety of dishes to choose from.
NEW STEPHEN AVENUE.
"FINEPRINT OCCUPIES THE ORIGINAL 1887 CALGARY HERALD BUILDING… a three-storey historical building and the birthplace of this city's written word. Locally owned, it's fine-casual dining with soft French influence and Prairie soul, built on the farmers and producers who've been here as long as the building has."
Is an authentic Irish tavern located on Stephen Avenue and is a major draw for downtown Calgary due to its popularity among locals and travelers alike. It was established in 1997 by Irish immigrants, who built the pub in the Old Molson Bank Building that dates back to 1910. It has been designated as a “Guinness-approved pub,” with all the hallmarks of Irish ancestry. The bar prides itself on the perfect pint of Guinness and extensive Irish whiskey collection with a pub menu that follows suite and celebrates classic Irish pub fare.
Elevated True North cuisine, crafted from scratch and served with exceptional value. Unwind with our dedicated Happy Hour menu, expertly curated cocktails, and a sun-drenched patio on the south side of Stephen Avenue.
110 8 Avenue SW, kleinharris.com
Located in the heart of Calgary, Modern Steak is renowned for its exclusive partnerships with local ranchers, its celebrated Alberta Prime and Wagyu programs, and its distinction as the only steakhouse in Alberta licensed to serve authentic Certified Kobe Beef from Japan. Guests can explore one of the country's most dynamic wine collections while enjoying expertly prepared steaks, elevated seafood, and vibrant social spaces including a rooftop patio and newly renovated lounges. Blending local pride with global culinary excellence, Modern Steak has become a destination for both discerning locals and visitors seeking one of Canada's premier dining experiences.
Summer Seafood Spectacular
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS
BY NATALIE FINDLAY
Summertime is a great time to enjoy fish. It cooks quickly, doesn’t need long marinating times, and is a light meal that can be made on the stove or the barbecue. It can even be served raw as the Tuna Tostada, following.
Albertans primarily rely on flash-frozen seafood choices. Processed and frozen within hours of catch, preserves its peak nutritional value and texture. Locally sourced seafood is limited to fishes such as pickerel, whitefish, and rainbow trout.
Pickerel is a versatile, mild, flaky white fish which would be great in the “Summer Fish Puttanesca.” Lake whitefish has a higher natural fat content that gives it a rich, buttery taste and could be a great substitution if you can’t find trout in the “Steelhead Trout with Fennel and Zucchini” recipe. Salmon would also be a complementary fish to use.
The hardest part about adding seafood to your summer meals is remembering to take it out of the freezer to thaw in time for dinner.
Summer Fish Puttanesca
Serves 2
1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil
6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 anchovy fillets
4 sprigs fresh thyme, stripped from the stem
5 leaves fresh oregano, finely chopped
¼ cup (60 mL) dry white wine
5 small tomatoes (or more cherry tomatoes)
½ cup Castelvetrano olives, halved & pitted
1 Tbs capers, drained
2 pieces ling cod (or other white fish)
¾ tsp sea salt
Garnishes as desired: red pepper flakes, fresh basil or flat leaf parsley (finely chopped)
1. Preheat oven to 375º F.
2. Add olive oil to a medium ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Once the olive oil is hot, add the garlic, anchovies, thyme, and oregano. Cook, stirring to break up the anchovies, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Stir in the wine and cook until slightly reduced, about 4 minutes.
4. Add the tomatoes and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes are broken, then add the olives and capers.
5. Season the fish with sea salt. Add it to the skillet with the sauce. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the fish is opaque and flakes easily with a fork, 8 minutes (or longer depending on the thickness of your fish). Remove from the oven.
6. Divide the fish among two plates. Spoon the sauce over the fish and sprinkle with basil, parsley and red pepper flakes, if desired. Serve with garlic bread and a salad on the side for a quick summer dinner.
Note: if not using fresh tomatoes, then you can use 400 g pureed tomatoes, ½ teaspoon dried oregano and ½ teaspoon dried thyme. Add the puree after the wine but cook for 10 minutes before adding the fish and continuing with the recipe.
Tuna Tostada
Serves 3 - 4
1 cup (240 mL) avocado oil
4 corn tortillas
1 small mango, peeled and cubed
¼ cup cucumber, small dice
1 green onion, green part only ¼ cup red pepper, small dice
1 Tbs pickled ginger, finely chopped
¼ jalapeño, small dice
3 avocados
To taste salt and pepper
2 Tbs (30 mL) soy sauce
3 tsp (15 mL) lime juice
2 tsp (10 mL) sesame oil
240–320 g sashimi grade tuna, cubed Garnish: limes, cilantro, basil
1. In a pot big enough to fit one tortilla, add avocado oil and heat over mediumhot heat. You will know the temperature is hot enough when you tear off a small piece of tortilla and place in the oil and it starts bubbling.
2. Add tortillas one at a time. Apply pressure to the tortilla to keep it as flat as possible. Fry for 20-30 seconds and then flip sides. Fry for another 20-30 seconds until golden and crisp. Place on a paper towel-lined cooling rack and sprinkle with sea salt.
3. Add the mango, cucumber, green onion, red pepper, pickled ginger, and jalapeño to a medium stainless bowl and stir gently
5. To make the sauce, in a small glass jar add the soy sauce, lime juice, and sesame oil and stir or shake to combine.
6. Add the tuna to the bowl with the mango mixture along with the sauce and gently combine. To assemble, place the tortilla on the bottom, add the mashed avocado, add the tuna mixture and garnish as desired.
Steelhead Trout with Fennel and Zucchini
Serves 4-5
1 head fennel, green part trimmed
½ small green zucchini
½ small yellow zucchini
15 cherry tomatoes, halved
1½ Tbs (22 mL) olive oil
1 tsp sea salt
¾ tsp black pepper
½ tsp sumac
500–800 g steelhead trout fillet
½ tsp sumac
½ tsp sea salt
GOLDEN HOUR, ABOVE THE CITY.
1. Preheat oven to 375º F.
2. Using a mandolin, slice the fennel and zucchini (or thinly slice by hand).
3. In a large bowl add the fennel, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, olive oil, sea salt, black pepper, and sumac, and stir to combine.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the vegetables on the baking sheet and place in the oven. Roast for 10 minutes while you prep the trout.
5. Line another baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the trout on the parchment. Season with sumac, salt, and pepper to cover the trout.
6. Cut lemons into halves and place on the baking sheet. Roast for 10 - 15 minutes depending on the thickness of the trout.
7. Remove trout and vegetables from the oven and top with olives and garnish with parsley. Squeeze the roasted lemons over the top of the fish and serve. Enjoy!
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Tuna Tostada
Steelhead Trout
Comfort in a bottle:
The evolution of Jordan Ridge Sauces
BY LUCY HAINES
Entrepreneurial roots run deep for Laurie Rowe. The Alberta businesswoman describes hers as starting with a farm family – and generations of cooks; from her grandfather and the early days of the family’s general store, to around a dozen current and ongoing businesses in Ontario and Alberta within the family circle: from ‘soup to nuts’, as she describes it. As for Rowe, she said she always knew she would have her own business someday, but what?
The ‘what’ it turns out, began when a nephew (and chef) commented to Rowe that there were some good sauces in the family. A look through the family recipe box reminded her that those sauces were economical and versatile, made with simple ingredients and a hit to pour over meatballs, or with pulled pork–family favourites that had survived generations.
For Rowe, a self-professed ‘ketchup and mustard’ gal, who doesn’t like the
harsh, sharp taste of most barbecue sauces, she remembered trying a sweeter one in the US, with hints of vinegar and smoke. An idea was hatched, and by 2017, the one-woman band was sampling her own line of gourmet dipping sauces at local farmers’ markets – Maple Campfire, Smokey Smokey, Piquant, and Mrs. J’s Mustard – under the name Jordan’s General Store, later re-branded to Jordan Ridge Sauces.
It wasn’t an obvious step for the Ontario native, who moved west in her early 20s, after going to college for hotel and resort management. Rowe and her husband settled on the outskirts of Calgary, in Black Diamond, raising two daughters and working full time, volunteering, ie. family life. When Rowe retired from decades of shift work as a police dispatcher and then as a postmaster, the go-getter wasn’t going to sit idle. After all, her personal motto is ‘tuck and roll’ - get around obstacles and
always move forward.
Starting with just a one-cup recipe and a four-gallon pot, Rowe soon jumped to a 550 kilogram steam kettle to fill the 340 mL glass bottles she’s used for sauces from the start. In 2018, Rowe partnered with a third-generation co-packer (based in BC, to access that market too), while keeping product stored in a warehouse on her acreage. Even today, she continues to use the Turner Valley Legion’s commercial kitchen, where she can develop a recipe idea, or fill small custom orders. And as Rowe has wanted, growth of her business has been slow and steady, with the aim of having a work/life balance and the chance for the family to work together.
“I want to stay close to all aspects of the business. I could go great guns – work 24/7, but I try to work four days a week and achieve sustainable growth,” says the self-described ‘maker and shaker’ of Jordan Ridge Sauces. Rowe’s husband
and son-in-law pitch in with deliveries, (and moving furniture for the Christmas markets), her eldest daughter helps with product labels and her younger daughter helps to run Christmas markets – Spruce Meadows being the biggest.
“We’ve been involved from the start, especially at the busy Christmas markets,” says Rowe’s daughter Beth, a Calgary foods teacher, adding the family blocks off time to work the special event. She also points to her mom’s volunteering and community efforts, like donating to the Veterans Food Bank. “We’re so proud of what mom has accomplished, and that it has been her focus from the beginning to create a local, Canadian made product. I still get a flutter when I see the sauces on grocery shelves, thinking my mom did this!”
Beth says she’s good at talking up the product at markets, showing how versatile the sauces can be. Her husband likes it on barbecue chicken pizza, she explains, while others use the dipping sauce with raw vegetables, on burgers, meatloaf, fish or eggs – and with cream cheese as an appetizer. Whether in markets, independent shops or grocery stores, Beth points to the Big 3 as top sellers: Sweet BBQ, Sweet Jalapeno BBQ, and Maple Campfire. “My great grandmother would put maple campfire sauce on meatballs and meatloaf. Now people put it on pizza – we Canadians love our maple syrup – mom even puts a little on vanilla ice cream. It’s a quality product meant for home cooks. After all, we show we care about others with food.”
“The small-batch business grew in spite of me,” laughs Rowe, still mostly a one-woman operation, working out of her home office (where she starts her day at 6:30 am coffee in hand, to answer emails). But the company has reached a point of growth where Jordan Ridge Sauces now has a sales person on board, a testament to the demand for product from varying sources, including a local BBQ pitmaster, the Canadian Finals Rodeo in Red Deer, and the Calgary Stampede. Jordan Ridge Sauces are also used at Badlands Catering, the Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity, and on Stadium Burgers at Okotoks DAWGS baseball games.
“My definition of sustainable is growing at a steady pace, so we’re here for the long run,” she says. “But it’s easy when a product sells itself. People love my sauces – bottom line: they taste good. That’s validating.” It’s also validating when Rowe enters her sauces in competitions, such as a few years back at the Millarville Farmers’, where a judge said the Maple Campfire was her favourite; like comfort food in a bottle. Now, Rowe says she doesn’t take for granted that others seek her out to add her sauces to a menu or to be part of an event. She now creates food service size 3.78 litre plastic containers for restaurants – and the executive chef of the Calgary Stampede is bringing in her sauces too – but remains with the Canadian-made glass bottles for retail sales.
“I looked at plastic pouches, plastic squirt bottles – we could cut packaging costs by a third if we went that way,” she adds. “But glass is infinitely recyclable, so
we walk the talk. I haven’t raised prices in five years because it’s important to me to have an affordable product for family kitchens. I’m proud we offer a gluten-free, premium product at a fair price.”
Since partnering with distribution and delivery companies in the last few years, Jordan Ridge Sauces has expanded its retail footprint, available in Safeway, Sobeys, Calgary Coop, Freson Bros., The Italian Centre – even souvenir shops in Whistler, BC. In 2023, Jordan Ridge began wholesaling the ‘Big 3’ in larger, 12-ounce glass bottles, phasing out the 8-ounce bottles except in seasonal gift boxes.
“I’m a little fish in a big BBQ sauce pond, but I’m growing,” says Rowe, adding she’s found that customers of her small batch, premium grill and dipping sauces are those who read labels, care about recyclable bottles and use simple ingredients to create comfort foods for their families. “I thought it would be more men buying sauce for the barbecue, but it’s women – buying for their husband to cook!”
“We created Jordan Ridge Sauces to see where it can go,” she says, adding more exposure is giving the brand traction. “This year, we want to expand and grow into BC, and to grow into butcher shops in Alberta – we’re a good fit there.”
Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and
GardenCaponataVegetable
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
With backyard gardens and farmers’ markets bursting forth with beautiful produce, there is no better time to love vegetables than right now. How glorious it is to wander into your garden and pluck off a variety of veg for your summer supper! Or, if the farmers’ market is more your thing, a Saturday morning is well spent when tucking a variety of garden
goodies into your basket.
For me, the summer months are all about eating fresh and local, savouring and celebrating the moments as much as possible. Because the season is so short-lived, I have crushes on all kinds of vegetables, but the trifecta of tomatoes, bell peppers, and eggplant is near the top of the list. When combined, you know that only delicious things can
happen - like caponata.
Caponata is a Sicilian eggplant salad that’s more like a relish. It is tangy, briny, slightly sweet, and has a wonderful silky texture. Caponata is quite lovely when served with crusty bread or crostini. Talk about ideal summer snacking! In addition to the aforementioned vegetables, you’ll need onions, celery, garlic, tomato paste,
capers, red wine vinegar (sherry vinegar works well too), and raisins. Yes, raisins. As a card-carrying raisin hater I was going to omit them from this recipe but I’m glad I didn’t. They add a complex sweetness to the dish, and with everything else going on, I swear you can’t even tell they are in there. As you can imagine, there are quite a few variations on caponata, some with and without olives. I love the briny vibe they give to this eggplant salad-relish so into the mix they go! And what is summer food without plenty of fresh herbs? Parsley and basil are the stars here.
Now, let’s grab the cutting board and get chopping! Firstly, the eggplant is cubed and roasted with olive oil until it’s tender and golden around the edges. While that’s in the oven, the capers and raisins are soaking in the vinegar, and the onions, celery, peppers, tomatoes, garlic, olives, and tomato paste are stirred around in a skillet until everything is married together and saucy. All the components are then added together and cooked a little longer. Toss in the herbs, season to taste, and that’s all there is to it.
While you may be tempted to dip into the caponata right away, it’s best to wait until it’s at room temperature. Better yet, refrigerate it for a couple of days and then serve it with crusty bread or crostini. The time spent in the refrigerator only enhances the
LIMONCELLO SPRITZ
Build over ice:
2oz Luxardo Limoncello 3oz Fiol Prosecco Splash of soda water
Gently stir and garnish with a lemon slice.
flavours even more, making this an ideal make-ahead appetizer for summer entertaining.
Other ideas for serving caponata: on a cheese board along with other charcuterie items; slather it onto a sandwich with arugula and fresh mozzarella; toss it with hot pasta and plenty of Parmesan cheese; pile it on top of toast and add a fried egg, add it to pizza; serve with grilled chicken or fish. I swear it tastes even better when eaten outside under a shady umbrella, with something cold and fizzy in hand, and good friends nearby.
Garden Vegetable Caponata
Serves 6-8
1 large eggplant, diced 1 cm cubes
2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
3 Tbs sultana raisins
3 Tbs (45 mL) red wine vinegar
2 Tbs capers
2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil
½ medium onion, chopped
2 celery stalks, diced
2 bell peppers, diced
½ tsp salt
500 g plum tomatoes, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste
2 Tbs chopped pitted green olives
½ tsp sugar
Pinch red pepper flakes
¼ cup fresh parsley
Fresh basil leaves, for garnish Crostini, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 425º F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Add the cubed eggplant to the baking sheet and toss with the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast for 25-30 minutes, until tender and golden around the edges.
2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the raisins, vinegar, and capers.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and celery, and cook for 5-7 minutes, until the vegetables have softened. Add the bell peppers and salt. Cook for another 5 minutes or so until the peppers are tender. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, tomato paste, olives, and sugar. Cook, stirring often for about 8-10 minutes until the tomatoes have softened and become saucy.
4. Add the roasted eggplant, raisin mixture and red pepper flakes. Cook for another 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with more salt and pepper.
5. Let the caponata cool to room temperature. It’s even better after 2-3 days! Garnish with fresh basil and serve with crostini.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon. Her two cookbooks ‘All the Sweet Things’ and ‘Vegetables: A Love Story’ have won awards and been on best-of lists.
Puttin’ on the Spritz
BY TOM FIRTH
The humble, or not so humble spritz has its roots in the Veneto where in the early 1800s, soldiers from the Habsburg Empire in Austria weren’t used to the high(er) alcohol wines of Italy (don’t forget cooler regions generally produce wines that are lighter in alcohol and the opposite is true of warmer regions), and these “visitors” took to asking for a “spritzen” or splash of water to make it a little more to their tastes. And drinking history was made.
Since then, the spritz has evolved, becoming a bit of a national icon in Italy, and widely available and widely loved around the world as a refreshing summertime (or summer evoking) treat. These days, the Veneto region estimates that around 300,000 spritzes are enjoyed every day (at least in the summer months) – you could probably throw a biscotti in any direction and have it hit a spritz.
To make a spritz, the formula is easily remembered as 3-2-1. Three parts prosecco, 2 parts of a bitter liqueur, and 1 part (you guessed it – the spritz) soda or sparkling water. All poured over ice. In a somewhat surprising turn of events, the Italians are rather peculiar about the spritz, and for them, most are either made with brands like Aperol, or Campari for an Aperol or Campari Spritz respectively (if ordering in Italian, it would become a Spritz Aperol) and less commonly, Cynar or other liqueurs can be used. Typically enjoyed late afternoon in Italy, often with a light snack of salted nuts or chips, to slow down a little, relax, enjoying those special moments before dinner.
Throughout the rest of the world, the formula remains the same, but we tend to be less fixated on the base, the liqueur, and even the sweetness is up in the air. Garnishes are optional (slices of lemon or maybe an umbrella?), a straw isn’t even necessary, and club soda, or sparkling water are perfectly fine. Here in Canada, while the classics are much loved, we aren’t quite as concerned
DID YOU KNOW, SPRITZ HAS ITS OWN DAY?
NATIONAL SPRITZ DAY IS CELEBRATED
ON AUGUST 1.
with the specifics for a spritz, and we tend to experiment quite freely with prosecco or other sparkling wines, the liqueur, and various sodas, tonics, or non-alcoholic bases.
Even though a spritz is one of the quickest cocktails to make, there also is no shame in getting your feet wet and exploring some of the ready made bottles, often in a four-pack – just add the ice.
One of the appealing things about enjoying a spritz at home is that it really doesn’t require much in the way of cocktail equipment, extensive quantities of never-used liqueurs or bitters, and can be as fancy or as friendly as you might wish. Though something worth exploring on your spritz journey might be options for the “mix”. Any sparkling wine works well in a spritz, but feel free to experiment with white, rosé, or red wine – even non-alcoholic examples. Bitter to off-dry liqueurs open a number of doors too with floral (like elderflower) or fruit-centric liqueurs, again, there are many non-alcoholic options available if reducing or cutting out your alcohol consumption. So too are carbonating options for the spritzen, which should be relatively dry (so avoid the pop), but tonics and soda waters with various flavourings can really blow the options wide open. Have fun experimenting!
THE EUROPEAN UNION SUPPORTS CAMPAIGNS THAT PROMOTE HIGH QUALITY AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS
In Good Spirits
Apparently, we have whisky on our brains still, but in our defence, we’ve been trying so many recently – from all parts of the world that you can’t blame us! This month, we do have an excellent, exceptionally local gin that is 100 percent worth trying, and supporting some local history, while with our whiskies, we turn back to Scotland
Burwood Beaulieu Botanicals Gin
A collaborative effort between the Lougheed House Conservation Society and Burwood Distillery highlights all manner of connection and celebration of local with a part of the proceeds going to the society to help support their efforts. Rosehips and rose petals come from the Lougheed House Gardens in addition to other local and exotic botanicals (including palate expanding Szechuan pepper) making a rather expansive gin experience. This would absolutely make a noteworthy G&T, but also a brilliant late afternoon Negroni. Available at the Distillery and select shops. About $55
We look forward to Ardbeg Day, and the limited editions they release to celebrate - and the irreverent humour that comes with the confidence of knowing your market, and your product too! The 2026 Dolce is exceptional: peaty of course (but maybe less noticeable than previous releases), and a complex, layered profile with apricot, date, and dark chocolate sweetness from the Marsala cask, and the baking spices, salted nuts, and char from the bourbon barrels, both softening the edges of the peat for a simply delicious, lip-smacking sipper. Viva La Dolce Vita!
CSPC 1238528 around $175
The Balvenie Doublewood 12 Years, Speyside, Scotland
Sometimes we’re so tantalised by the new releases that we overlook the classics: the highly respected whiskies for their traditional methods, the longevity of the distiller, and their experience. Now 23 years old, Balvenie DoubleWood 12 whisky is an icon, created by former Malt Master, David Stewart in 1982, it’s matured in two different barrels – first for 12 years in American bourbon casks, then some in sherry barrels, mellowing the spirit, and adding vanilla with spice, honey, complexity, and depth to this classic!
CSPC 387316 $95-105
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
(for the most part) with some easy going blended bottles to knock your socks off, and some classic, much-loved single malts including some newly released.
Perhaps, the best way to beat the heat this summer would be to stay up late with a nice dram or two and watch the sun go down!
Single malt whisky might get all the glory, but blended malts and the deft hands making them are getting a lot of attention, and with very reasonable prices, they should be on your radar too. The musical-themed Turntable has three whiskies in their regular range, and three in more limited or special in their releases. From the regular set, the sherry cask heavy Bittersweet Symphony is rife with butter tart style toffee, raisin, dark chocolate and orange fruit, with a long and heated finish. Bottled at 46 percent, it’s your preference to dilute or not – but it’s at its finest at full strength.
CSPC 353792 About $85-90
Glenfiddich 15 Year Old Solera Reserve, Speyside, Scotland
Another icon, Glenfiddich 15 Year Old is the essential premium Scotch for novices and enthusiasts alike. Aged in both new oak and sherry barrels, their Solera Vat has been kept half full for 28 years and never emptied, allowing newer and older whiskies to mix and marry, adding to the depth of flavour and combining notes of ginger, vanilla, and cinnamon with peaches, toffee, and sweet yet earthy honey. We didn’t need any ice or water; it has such a creamy mouthfeel, so just enjoy it and savour the flavours without dilution.
CSPC 728132 $97-104
Turntable Collaboration Drop 02 Dingle International Blended Whisky
An “international” collaboration rather than a Scottish blended whisky, but wildly interesting and wickedly tasty. Bottled at a rather heated 52 percent ABV, the nose is classically whisky but with nuances of mint leaf or pine, a little black berry fruitiness, and some rock dust mineral tones. In the mouth, it’s rather composed as is, but a wee bit of filtered water open things nicely to a clean, complex, evolving finish. Brilliant from start to finish.
CSPC 116737 About $115-125
IBeer Cheese Spread from Quivey's Grove Heritage Cookbook
t’s a big anniversary this year on July 4 when the US celebrates its 250th Independence Day, and hot dogs and hamburgers will be grilled by the thousands, but what’s on the menu for Americans in Alberta?
We asked US Consul General Emily Fleckner what she’d serve to mark the occasion, and she told us about her preferred crowd-pleasing dish - beer cheese spread from historic family restaurant, Quivey's Grove, in her hometown of Madison, Wisconsin.
“I’ve been making and eating it forever, since I grew up with the restaurant owner’s daughter, and even worked in the kitchen one summer,” she says. “So, you could say I am a professional beer cheese maker.”
Wisconsin is known as the Dairy State, so cheese is king, and Fleckner explains that beer cheese is served in one form or another across bars, supper clubs, and
“garage parties”.
“Beer cheese is brilliant because you can serve it in ramekins, you can roll it in a log and cover it with pretzels,” she adds.
“You can use the leftovers — if there are
One Night Only! Vine & Dine at Aloha Modern Kitchen, July 16
We’re back on island time this July! For one night only, we’re relaxing in the lovely summery decor, and soaking in the island vibes of this laid-back atmosphere, with Chef Harris’ menu from his years of Hawaiian culture and heritage in Maui.
Vine & Dine at Cucina Bistro
July 18 and August 1
We’re at Teatro Ristorante’s little sister with a choice of two Saturday nights for you this summer! Six delicious dishes await, each carefully paired to complement the flavours.
Vine & Dine at Brar Fine Dining
Indian Cuisine, July 22 and August 19
Another Indian summer for us this year with the chef at our very first Vine & Dines in 2005! We’re excited for these evenings of six delicious North and South Indian dishes!
Vine & Dine at Aama
July 30 and August 27
It’s our third season at one of Cochrane’s best restaurants for two Vine & Dine evenings of outstanding Nepalese food in this elegant settinga memorable evening!
Vine & Dine at SOT
August 17, 31, and September 9
Three summer pairing nights of elevated and creative cuisine, based on Korean dishes and prepared in a modern way, at Calgary’s Best New Restaurant of 2025!
BY LINDA GARSON
any — to make beer cheese soup. You can put it on anything; the possibilities are endless.”
And what does she serve with it?
“It pairs well with Old Fashioneds, long days at the lake, and your uncle’s offcolor jokes,” laughs Fleckner.
Beer Cheese Spread from Quivey's Grove Heritage Cookbook
4 cups grated aged cheddar cheese
225 g cream cheese
1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp dry mustard
1 clove garlic
½ cup (120 mL) Wisconsin or other beer
1 tsp onion salt
Put all ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Chill and serve with tiny, sour gherkin pickles.
Vine & Dine at La Brezza
October 14, 22, and 28
We’re back at one of Calgary’s longtime favourite Italian restaurants, La Brezza Ristorante, for three Vine & Dine evenings. Everyone has loved our dinners here!
We’ve added another night at IBU Restaurant, now October 7 and 20
Our special one-off evening at IBU in October sold out so quickly that father and son, Chefs Jeff and Joel Matthews, have let us have another night just for Vine & Dine!
These evenings can – and do - sell out quickly and new events are added regularly, so check vineanddine.ca for details and menus, and email linda@vineanddine.ca to reserve your places, and to be included in our bi-monthly updates. We try to cater for all allergies.
World Cup of Beer
BY DAVID NUTTALL
The World Cup of Football (soccer) is in full swing; the largest sporting event on earth, with qualifying matches starting almost three years before the final selection of teams is made. The Fédération Internationale de Football Association (FIFA) has more member nations (211), than participate in the Summer Olympics (206 countries took part in 2024), and even more than comprise the United Nations (193), making this the most inclusive event the world experiences every four years. Although the tournament began in 1930, this year hits a bit differently for Canadians as it is the first time that final games will be played in this country. As a host nation, Canada was an automatic
qualifier, but our team's ranking in the top thirty means they are actually fairly good. So, if you want to cheer them on with a beer, what are your options?
Truth be told, if you get to attend any of the 104 games in either of the three host countries (Canada, United States, and Mexico), your beer choices will be rather restricted. AB InBev (short for Anheuser-Busch InBev), the largest brewing conglomerate in the world, has the rights to the tournament with Budweiser designated as the official beer, and Michelob ULTRA and Stella Artois as “hospitality activations”, meaning they are also at stadium and host events. Michelob ULTRA is the beer sponsor of both US and Canada Soccer while Estrella
Jalisco is the official beer of the Mexican National Team. Estrella is not exported to Alberta, but the other products should be familiar to most fans.
Still, with forty-eight countries participating in this year's tournament, can you hoist one for other nations with their local beer? To a certain extent, yes. Thirty nations do not have any beer represented in Alberta, leaving fifteen other countries beyond the three host nations.
While they will not be present inside the stadiums, there are several brands that back different national teams. Otherwise, here are beer brands you can find in Alberta from those other fifteen countries.
Argentina
Quilmes is an official beer of Argentina Football through its parent company AB InBev and is the only Argentinian beer in Alberta.
Australia
Football Australia's main beer sponsor is Hahn, a beer that has never been imported into Alberta. Coopers is the sole brewery from Oz currently available, and they have three styles in the market here.
Austria
Stiegl is the official beer of the Austrian Football Association and has many products here in all formats.
Belgium
Being home to over four hundred breweries, the Belgium National Football Team has several partnerships, but their primary is with Jupiler, not coincidentally brewed by AB InBev. Jupiler is not exported to Alberta, but there are well over 130 beers from Belgium if you want to ride with the Red Devils.
Croatia
The beer of the Croatian National Football Team is Ožujsko, which is not in Alberta, leaving Karlovačko as the sole Croatian beer here.
Czechia
Gambrinus is a backer of Czech football, however, it is not sold here. Despite its reputation for great beer, only two breweries have product in Alberta: Plzensky Prazdroj (Pilsner Urquell) and Budejovicky Budvar (Czechvar).
England
Budweiser is all over English football, as the official beer partner of the England Football men's national team, and as a sponsor of Wembley Stadium and the Football Association (FA) Cup. Bud is brewed in London, but that beer stays in the UK. There are sixteen different breweries you can choose from if you want to side with the Three Lions.
France
Due to French Law, there is no direct or indirect advertising of alcohol in sport. However, if you want to salute Les Bleus, you have exactly one French beer label to do it with; X-mark Beer, which is actually a Dutch brand.
Germany
There are around 130 beers from Germany in this province, but you can support the team with Bitburger, a promoter of the German Football Association.
Japan
Kirin is the official partner of the Japan National Football Team. It did previously sell here but is no longer being imported. However, if you want to back Japan there are several different breweries here (Asahi, Coedo, Echigo, Far Yeast, Kiuchi, and Orion) with around twenty different beers to try.
Netherlands
As one of the most popular brands on earth, Heineken is no stranger to beer drinkers. It also backs Dutch soccer, so you can cheer for De Oranje with any of its multiple formats. There are also dozens of other Dutch beers available.
Portugal
Sagres is the sanctioned beer of the Portugal National Football Team and used to be in Alberta, but no longer. Today, if you fancy Cristiano Ronaldo and the rest of the Seleção Nacional, there is only Coral Branca (from Madeira) and Super Bock.
Scotland
Tennent’s is the official beer of Scotland’s men’s team and is here in Alberta. If you want to join the Tartan Army, you can find more beers from Innis and Gunn, Traquair House, and Harviestoun.
South Korea
Cass (produced by Oriental Brewery) is the authorized beer of the Korea Football Association and is sold in Alberta. You can also find Kloud and Jinro here.
Spain
The Spanish National Football Team partners with Cervezas Victoria but it is not exported to Alberta. Alhambra and Damm are the two breweries represented here.
Needless to say, this is not the realm of tiny craft breweries, and a substantial proportion of the beers represented above are lighter lagers. Only major sponsors get recognition, but that does not mean there will not be beers around made by craft breweries and other competing brands that might hint at the spectacle while avoiding specific words.
So, cheer on Canada, or any country you like, with a beer (or other beverage) of your own choice and enjoy "the beautiful game."
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow David @abfbrewed
MAKING THE CASE
A Personal Selection
By LINDA GARSON
Irarely get chance to select wines for this column, but when I do – my goodness do I enjoy it!
I was asked many times what my theme would be for this summer roundup, and I thought about fresh-tasting wines, bubbles, beach wines, anything really for hot weather, but in the end, I decided to keep it simple. My theme (such as it is) is wines I like from people and wineries I like, most of which I’ve visited, and some several times, that I can honestly recommend to you.
It’s a no-brainer to include superpremium, high-scoring, expensive wines, and of course you’ll like them too, but it’s more satisfying to talk about wellmade, good wines, that hopefully won’t break the bank, and that pair well with food (if I’m eating, I’m usually drinking wine, and if I’m drinking wine, I’m usually eating) as is my joy.
I’m always asked what my favourite wine is, and there are far too many to include here, but here is a selection of some of them, and I hope you enjoy them too.
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Alvear Amontillado, Montilla-Moriles, Spain
Being an old-world girl as well as an old girl, I’ve been drinking dry sherry for very many years, and always had a bottle of Fino in my fridge, but now it’s been supplanted by Amontillado. Made in Montilla-Moriles, from pedro-ximénez grapes (95 percent of grapes here are PX), this wine isn’t fortified, it’s fermented to 15 percent ABV and aged in oak for eight years. Mouth-wateringly juicy, and now with less then 5 g/L of sugar, it’s a dryer wine now than previous editions with crusty, dried fruit notes, and a little complexity from the oak – pass the marcona almonds and green olives!
CSPC 137436 $30-32
Poplar Grove 2025 Pinot Gris, Naramata Bench, British Columbia Poplar Grove are celebrating their 30th anniversary this year, and they’re also celebrating the return to BC VQA with the 2025 harvest, and their own grapes. For me it’s like meeting an old friend, one you’ve been missing. Mostly pinot gris (93 percent) with a little muscat, viognier, and chardonnay, it’s peachy and pineapple-ly, and it’s meant to be enjoyed upon release. My bottle didn’t hang around - it’s so food friendly, with salads, chicken, prawns…
CSPC 125184 $26-29
Sattlerhof 2024 Sauvignon Blanc Sudsteiermark, Austria
Austria likely isn’t the first country you think of for sauvignon blanc, but for me it’s one of the finest and most elegant, and here in southern Styria, close to the border with Slovenia, it’s the most important grape. Brothers Alex and Andi Sattler are serious winemakers, and this sauvignon blanc is organic and biodynamic, with no cultured yeasts, and more akin to a Loire sauv with a softer acidity and apple, elderflower, and peach notes. Perfect with goat cheese, and leafy salads, asparagus, and creamy dishes.
CSPC 785297 $30-34
France
The picturesque Château de Lamarque has a thousand-year history and has been in the same family since 1050. That, along with the 2019 vintage - an excellent vintage in Bordeaux - and you have a remarkable wine at a very good price. From right-bank Medoc, the wine is equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot (42 percent each) and the rest petit verdot bringing that lovely ‘chewy’ mouthfeel, dark fruit, and spice. It’s intense, soft, and makes me want to eat burnt ends.
CSPC 124413 $50-55
Château de Lamarque 2019, Haut Medoc Bordeaux,
Carpineto 2020 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany, Italy
There aren’t many Vino Nobile wines in Alberta, and they are beauties when you find them From the hilltop town of Montepulciano, 50 km from Sienna, it’s sangiovese, called Prugnolo Gentile by locals, and dry-farmed, producing one bottle of wine per vine. As a Riserva it’s aged for three years for an elegant, medium-body wine with good acidity, dark fruit flavours, and earth – pair it with wild boar if you can get it, and hearty ragu/pasta dishes. Age-worthy.
CSPC 368910 $40-42
Emiliana 2022 Coyam Colchagua Valley, Chile
New from Pares Balta this spring, their organic (and biodynamic) rosé cava is a break from tradition with the addition of grenache to the indigenous Catalonia grapes, parellada and macabeo . Made in the traditional method, it rests on its lees for 18 months, and ultimately bottled with zero dosage for a wine that is delightfully refreshing with red berry notes and a little tart citrus. Chill well, and it will be as good with your appies (beet salad!) as it was with our dark chocolate truffles!
CSPC 883929 $22-27
Cipriani Bellini, Veneto, Italy
Giuseppe Cipriani founded Harry’s Bar in Venice, and around 1948 created his Bellini cocktail, combining prosecco with white peach purée (20 percent in this case) – and here it is, refreshing, a gorgeous pink colour, lightly effervescent, and only 5.5 percent ABV. The peach purée is naturally sweet, but in a fruity rather than sugary way, and be sure to follow the suggestions on the bottle and chill to 2-3º C, and flip upside down (and back upright) to mix everything together before popping the cap. A perfect brunch cocktail!
CSPC 130204 $18
Celebrating 25 years of certified organic production and the first vintage of Coyam, Emiliana is by choice my most visited winery in Chile, and Coyam is what I call a dangerous wine - far too easy to drink! It’s a full-bodied wine for Alberta tastes, and a blend of eight grapes; 72 percent of which are syrah and carmenère. In this heavy bottle is a complex and powerful, silky smooth wine with dark berry and herbal notes that you’ll want to take to your next dinner party or BBQ!
CSPC 727518 $30-34
Bio Bio, Chile
Another far too easy to drink wine from Emiliana (and at an outrageously good price!), the new-to-Alberta pinot noir is one you’d probably buy by the case - a bottle at a time will be too many trips to the store! This certified organic wine is silky smooth, medium bodied, juicy yet intense, and fruity with those sour cherry notes we love in a cool climate pinot. And it is cool in Bio Bio, and windy and rainy too! Easy to pair with salmon, mushroom dishes, charcuterie…
CSPC 127666 around $15
It doesn’t get much more classic-o than this! From Italy’s oldest winery, and from the great-grandson of Baron Bettino Ricasoli who created the recipe for chianti in 1872, Ricasoli 2023 Brolio is textbook Chianti Classico – all red fruits of tart cranberry and sour cherry, raspberry and redcurrants, pomegranate, and with a touch of balsamic that means as well as being the obvious wine for your weekend pizza, it also complements the flavours of any soy sauce-based dish.
CSPC 3962 $30-33
Meerlust Estate 2022 Rubicon South Africa
I couldn’t be happier to discover that Rubicon is available in Alberta again. This iconic Cape Bordeaux-style blend was my first South African love, and I still think fondly of visiting this historic estate. The 2022 vintage, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot all fermented separately, is yet young, intense and brooding, with dark –yet sweet – juicy fruit, and notes of cedar and chocolate. Terrific with venison, bison, roast lamb, and more.
CSPC 780501 $63-$67
Casa Ferreirinha 2023 Papa Figos Vinho Branco, Douro, Portugal
We don’t see many white wines from the Douro here, maybe a dozen or so as it’s the land of Port, but when we get them – oh boy are they delicious! From vineyards at the higher elevation Douro Superior, Casa Ferreirinha have blended seven indigenous grapes (mostly rabigato, with viosinho, arinto, códega do larinho, gouveio, and muscatel), for a delightfully soft and creamy wine, showing white fruits and the right amount of citrus to pair with cheese gougeres, and my chicken coconut curry at home.
CSPC 100077 $21-22
Blue Grouse Estate Winery Charme de L’île Vancouver Island, Canada
Vancouver Island’s own designation, the sparkling "Charm of the Island" wines are made from 100 percent island grapes, and in our case from Cowichan Valley schönburger, with pinot gris and ortega, bacchus, and maybe a little chardonnay (each year it may vary a bit). A low-intervention wine, Blue Grouse’s Charme de L’île is an easy-going, easy-drinking, crowd-pleaser – with a soft and creamy mousse, apple, melon, and citrus, and a lovely refreshing salinity. Any hour would be a happy hour if you’re sipping this!
CSPC 414755 $27-33
Ricasoli 2023 Brolio Chianti Classico Tuscany, Italy
Emiliana 2023 Adobe Reserva Pinot Noir
Pares Balta Pink Cava, Penedes, Spain
Napoleon Griddle Starter Kit
Any at-home chef knows that becoming a whiz on the BBQ starts with having the right tools. While Napoleon has long been an industry leader in professional-grade grilling accessories, its 2026 lineup of stainlesssteel grilling essentials really impressed us with its versatility and reliability. These are just simply wellmade, functional tools that would be equally at home in the hands of a seasoned pitmaster or someone firing up the grill for the very first time. $40 at most home/ hardware stores, napoleon.com
STAUB Cast Iron Square American Grill
Living in Alberta, our warm weather only sticks around for a few months each year. While we usually try to pack all our grilling and barbecuing into those precious summer months, a new way to enjoy grilled food year-round has found its way into our office. The STAUB stovetop grill pan is optimized for high-heat indoor cooking and delivers those perfect grill marks every time. Better yet, it's compatible with all stovetops, while its castiron construction provides exceptional heat retention and even cooking – whether it's the middle of January or the height of patio season. Around $250, zwilling.com
Our Place Tiny Cookware Duo
More beautiful pots from Our Place – they’ve released the ‘Tinies’ Collection, miniature versions of their Always Pan and Perfect Pot at only 14 cm. We love the super non-stick ceramic coating, made with no harmful chemicals, and that the domed lid fits both the pan and the pot, and they stack! Cooking for one, I’ve found them really useful for small quantities of sauces etc, and they have dual pour spouts, so the pot pours cleanly - perfect for left-handers too! Available in five colourways, $175 fromourplace.com
Jelly King (Non-Alcoholic)
New to the market, Ontario's Bellwoods Brewery has a number of cool and awesome sours gracing our shelves, but we really enjoyed their non-alcoholic offerings at a recent tasting session. Top of mind was a Raspberry-Lemon Seltzer that was tart, juicy, AND balanced, and we really loved the Dry-Hopped Non-Alcoholic Raspberry & Blackberry Sour that is a perfect, non-sweet, way to beat the heat! 473mL $6-8. Craft liquor stores and grocers.
MeatStick V
Speaking of outdoor grilling, have we mentioned that we have a new favourite meat thermometer?
Built for grilling, smoking, searing, and deep-frying, the MeatStick V operates in temperatures up to 1200° F. Whether you're a professional chef pulling off a pig roast or an at-home cook trying to perfect a steak on the barbecue, it really takes the guesswork out of cooking. One feature we particularly love is the companion app; the MeatStick V tells you exactly when to pull your meat off the heat and even how long to let it rest to reach your desired internal temperature. It makes achieving that perfect doneness far less stressful. Around $140, themeatstick.com
Bubly
Pop
Which came first, singer Michael Bublé or bubly water?
Naturally, we know the answer, but the two will be forever linked. For those perhaps looking for a “little more” in their flavoured beverages comes “bubly pop” that is a little more soda like with real fruit, not too much sugar (made with stevia), and about 20 calories or less per can – and Canada is the first country to get them! Available in three, well-loved flavours, Lemon Lime, Black Cherry, and Berry. 6 x 355 mL around $10.
VG Gourmet Burgers
As the vegetarian and vegan space continues to evolve, we are happy to report that there are even more options for those eschewing meat regularly or occasionally during the grilling and barbecue season. We tried three different burgers from VG, and they work well on the grill, in an air-fryer, even in toaster ovens. We found the Lentil and Walnut and Sweet Potato burgers were very tasty, and the new, Beet Power Burger was balanced, flavourful, and versatile too (19 grams of protein and 10 of fibre). Sourced wherever possible from Canadian-grown ingredients. 4-pack around $9-10 at Nutters, Community Natural Foods, and Sobeys, vggourmet.com
Maynards Fuzzy Peach Blends
Classic Canadian staple candies, Maynards Fuzzy Peaches, have launched their first new flavours in their 100+ year history! There are three flavours of these sour and sweet, sugary gummies in the new ‘Blends’ bag: Peach/Raspberry, Peach/Mango, and Peach/Lime – and they’re still chewy, still peachy, still mouthwatering, and still very moreish! Widely available, 154 g around $3-4
More Please!
In Rachel Mansfield’s "Feel-Good Meals for Busy Families and their Picky Eaters", with about 100 recipes, there is plenty for everyone. Most recipes are gluten-free, plenty are low in sugar, high in fibre, and pack in the protein too - and many are quick to make. Lots of options for those picky eaters of course, and flavours and recipe selection cover most of the bases, with items that tie into the little one's "deep connections" to certain dishes like pizza, pasta or fries. As a nice bonus, many of the dishes included would really work well as a potluck item or something to adjust and bring to a gathering. Simon Clement $49
...with Blair Lebsack
BY QUINN CURTIS AND LINDA GARSON
PHOTO BY DONG KIM
Growing up on a farm in Joffre, just outside Red Deer, Blair Lebsack was living off the land before it was even a thing. “My mom planted a huge garden every year. We had tons of vegetables, and we lived next door to my grandma, so there were a lot of family meals,” he says.
Being a kid on a farm, Lebsack learned a lot about food, and how to make it your own. “I knew where milk came from. I knew that it separated out into the cream. I knew how to churn cream to turn it into butter. We would make our own ice cream as well because my mom would be like, ‘I'm not running to the store to get ice cream, so we can make some.’ There was a lot of that in my upbringing,” he laughs.
At 19 years old, Lebsack travelled to Vancouver for a visit, and was shocked by the power of restaurants to transport patrons to other countries through food and atmosphere. His passion for food and newfound appreciation for hospitality led him straight to the Food and Beverage Management program at Red Deer College. Thirty years later, Lebsack still hasn't left the kitchen.
After apprenticeship training at NAIT, Lebsack worked his way through restaurant jobs in Calgary, Edmonton, Saskatoon, and everywhere in between,
from a small restaurant in Bragg Creek to executive chef at the Banff Rocky Mountain Resort. A position as executive chef at Union Bank in Edmonton followed, though after five years, Lebsack could no longer ignore the itch to own his own restaurant.
Working as an instructor at NAIT, Lebsack began pursuing his dream of restaurant ownership during the summers when he wasn't teaching. “We would do these dinners out in the middle of farmers' fields, and we would cook for people. It would be Dinner at Range Road. We started in 2011, and then kept looking for a space. We found our current location in late 2012, and after renovations, we opened RGE RD in 2013.”
Lebsack and his wife Caitlin opened the 1,700-square-foot restaurant, and quickly realized there were certain limitations. “We had the idea of a small restaurant and the bigger idea of wanting to do whole-animal butchering because we were buying stuff directly from farms. It was very difficult because we would come in in the morning, get a cow in and butcher it, and then we'd have to package it up and take it offsite to store in a different cooler. However, our landlord let us know the tenant next door was moving out, so we took that space, got to blow out a wall, and doubled our
footprint. We went from 1,700 to 3,400 square feet, and that's where we built our first little butcher shop,” says Lebsack. But they didn't stop there. “Another area in our building opened up, and we took it. It's where we have The Butchery by RGE RD. Now we have a great team, and we have to rely on them heavily. They're doing a great job, and the butcher shop just keeps getting busier. We're selling more and more cuts out of there,” he says. “It’s our local Edmonton clientele, and the food scene here is why we are still open, because they just continually come and support us and buy what we're putting out there.”
And the special bottle that Lebsack is saving? “The one that I'm pulling out because I think it's absolutely delicious, is the Jamet Côte-Rôtie. I don't typically go looking for a syrah, but when this one was introduced to me – my wife was actually the first one to show it to me – I was blown away. We've had a couple of bottles of it, but now we're putting some down in our cellar that will hang out for another ten years and gain some age. We opened one a couple of years ago on my birthday, and it ended up being our favourite wine of the night again,” says Lebsack. He says that if his daughter ever takes over RGE RD in ten years or so, that's when he'll be cracking open his next bottle.
