MAKING THE CASE for the last days of summer

By TOM FIRTH

September is a bit of a mixed bag for many. For a lot of families, it’s back to school, for others, it’s back to the grind after vacations, getaways, and the like, and for others, it is still part of summer as the days are often still nice, the parks and destinations are a little less busy than they were, and there are still ample days to relax, soak up some more sun, or just enjoy a nice glass here and there.

This month was a bit of a struggle to find the right wines, but what seemed to come together was a wide selection of Italian wines notably some incredible bottles, but also versatile, tasty wines that go with so much more than just pasta or pizza. In deference to the hoped-for fine weather, we have a few nice whites that really shine.

Next month, in October’s Culinaire, we won’t have my wine recommendations as we are publishing the results of our 2025 Alberta Beverage Awards where we’ll have hundreds of curated, awardwinning bottles (and cans too) as selected by our esteemed panels of judges. I sincerely hope you pick up a copy and I know that you’ll definitely find something to enjoy.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Escorihuela 1884 2022 Estate Grown Viognier, Mendoza, Argentina

While Argentina is best known for its wonderful malbecs, the really exciting wines being made there are made from other grapes – including white grapes (the climate and altitude that work so well with ripening malbec has a lovely effect on other grapes too). A viognier from Argentina is an exciting wine. Look for intense floral characters, peach and nectarine fruits, almonds, and a slight honey tone too. A lovely, delicious bottle sure to please viognier fans.

CSPC 246165 $19-23

Talamonti 2022 Tre Saggi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Abruzzo, Italy

This is a producer and bottling that have long been established in our market, and the Tre Saggi is fantastic, year after year. Made from 100 percent montepulciano, aged in barrel for a year and then further aged in bottle for another, the wine is lush and powerful with expressive, almost raisin-like berry fruits, earth and asphalt, and a lengthy, complex finish.

CSPC 868690 $32-36

Montecchiesi 2020 Preziosatera Tuscany, Italy

A genuinely pleasant and enjoyable wine that paired well at dinner and struck the right balance of classic, sangiovese flavours along with a little added fruit power from a smidge of syrah in the blend. Abundant red cherry style fruits with a fine plum and blackberry support, along with agreeable tannins, lovely acids, and an easy balance. It was a star with a brisket, but would be just as at home with a nice selection of cheese or light nosh.

CSPC 756312 $39-42

Tenuta San Guido 2022 Sassicaia Bolgheri, Italy

Sassicaia is one of the great wines of the world, and a rather recent addition to that pantheon of luminaries. The new release is always highly anticipated, and I know very few professionals in the wine business that would turn down a glass (or two). The 2022 is getting very close to its release, and it’s worth asking about it at your favourite store. Cabernet sauvignon with cabernet franc at its finest with power, polish, and perfection in the wings. Cherries and tar, floral abundance, and a star for the cellar once again.

CSPC 940040 About $385-400

Spinelli 2022 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy

Over the course of many trips to Italy, I firmly believe that it’s in Abruzzo that the breadth and depth of cuisine is perfected. And the wines – *Chef’s Kiss*. A full and rich expression of the grape here, with liquorice, cherry, and plum in a rather lush expression. Plenty of spice to go with flower blossom and a juicy finish too. An easy match with meaty sauces, deep dish pizza, and grilled red meats.

CSPC 799608 $20-25

Sumo Cat 2023 Riesling Rheinhessen, Germany

Honestly, how could you not want to try this one? Sumo Cat just might be the next well-priced, cheerful, off-dry table pleaser you didn’t know you needed. Definitely on the off-dry side veering into sweeter territory, but well-chilled, the sweetness lets the crisp and tart apple fruits move to the fore, and with brilliant acids the wine isn’t cloying in any way. Hints of steely mineral character add extra nuance, but this is a zesty, easy glass of nice riesling.

CSPC 112416 $19-22

Guardacaccia 2021 Viognier, Terra Alta, Spain

A highly unusual example of viognier coming to us from Spain of all places, but an absolute gem. Wildly intense as viognier can be, but with a feral leafiness and more intense herbal tone to go with those lush stone fruits that keep on coming. Quite nutty and oily towards the finish, and classically viognier the whole way through. Just as good at the table as it is on the patio, it’s a fine pairing with grilled poultry, creamier sauces, and intense, creamy cheese. Very nice indeed.

CSPC 882476 $30-35

Terenzuola 2022 La Merla Canaiolo, Tuscany, Italy

Merla is an uncommon name for us, but it’s specifically used to describe a local variant of the canaiolo grape. Packed with deep, dark, brooding berry fruits backed up by hints of tar and smoke. Restrained tannins especially compared to the big fruits, but an absolute pleasure to enjoy a second glass or third. Should be an easy guest at the dinner table and would pair very well indeed with steaks or other premium cuts of beef.

CSPC 101118 $41-45

Villa Maria 2022 Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

A much loved, classic expression of New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Villa Maria is exceptionally priced especially in the Private Bin line, and the wine checks off all the boxes that NZSB lovers want. Gooseberry, jalapeño, melon and lime on the nose and palate with “wake you up” acids and a clean tropical fruit palate – you know, under all that goosey/grassiness. A wine that screams out for summer, and who am I to argue with that?

CSPC 725171 $18-22

Wild Goose 2023 Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, Canada

Is it just me, or has pinot gris from the Okanagan gotten really “dialed in” over the past few years. Wild Goose has always brought their white grape “A” game, and the pinot gris really stood out recently for its nuance and expression. Not to be served too cold, macintosh apple, bartlett pear, and straw show on the nose with flavours ringing true and evolving nicely over the palate. The finish is fantastic with a medley of acids, mild bitterness, and clean fruit. Highly recommended.

CSPC 536277 $35-38

Terenzuola 2024 Vermentino Vigna Basse Tuscany, Italy

Here, my notes started with “Wow, just wow!” a beautiful vermentino with crisp apples, pear, oranges, and a mild honey note supporting intense white blossom aromas. Crisp, complex and polished, it’s a true gem of a white with pepper spice, and loads of mineral character on the palate supporting the fruit. Perfect to enjoy in the sun, but also with creamier dishes, sushi, or freshwater fish. Absolutely a bottle to look for.

CSPC 891277 about $32-34

San Felice 2023 Vermentino Tuscany, Italy

Another beautiful bottle to enjoy in the fresh air when you can, and from an esteemed producer whose reds we are likely more familiar with. Fresh and lively, vibrant, and nearly bursting with grapefruit-style citrus notes but also softer, fuller fruits like pear and even quince. Lightly spicy with a fresh, dry grassiness, and a bright core of acids tying it all together. A treat to enjoy with seafood or freshwater fish, it also shines with cured meats and light snacks.

CSPC 120313 $20-24

Tenuta San Guido 2023 Guidoalberto Bolgheri, Italy

A complete stunner on all counts. From a wetter, cooler, and trickier year than most, the blend of about 55 percent cabernet sauvignon and 45 percent merlot delivers. Beautiful fruits shine with slightly wild, woodsy aromas of herb and spice, but also cedar and earthiness; all of it nuanced and layered, evolving in the glass along the way. Still very young of course, a short time in the cellar would be ideal, with my recommendation being to open one after 2030 at the very least, with 2035 being closer to ideal.

CSPC 709301 $95-105