Calgary Entrepreneur is Baking up a New Beginning

BY LUCY HAINES

Gluten-free baking wasn’t even on Jon Betke’s radar less than a year ago when, after 15 years working in the oil patch, the Calgary native found himself needing a re-set. The pandemic was part of it, as Betke had already started a side hustle setting up walk-in fridge/freezers for food industry customers when he had time to spare; handy connections and knowledge he’d gained years earlier after graduating from SAIT’s culinary program. But it was the untimely loss of his wife from cancer in 2021 that turned the now 43-year-old’s world upside down.

“I was definitely a hermit for a time, but so lucky to have amazingly supportive family and friends,” says Betke, adding he eventually got out into the fresh air and sunshine playing soccer and slo-pitch and, of course – throwing himself into work. “Randomly, I installed a freezer for Renay Eng-Fisher, the longtime owner of Delissitude. She said she was looking to sell the business, and I started to think it might be something for me.”

Betke laughs that he had gotten into bread making during COVID, the same way many others did, so it was funny to then buy a gluten-free bakery. Calling the last year eye-opening would be an understatement, he agrees, saying the learning curve about promoting the business through social media, navigating a wholesale operation, testing new recipes and discovering different gluten-free ingredients has been a 24/7 job.

“Renay was celiac and got very good at baking for herself. She’s a mentor to me now on what works and what doesn’t, and I’ve also got my mom and sister –fantastic bakers – to try recipes at home. So far, we’ve had more failures than successes, updating the recipes for our muffins, cupcakes, cookies and pastries. But I also have three full-time bakers to help through the process.”

As recipes for breads, cakes and more are being tweaked in the 2,000 square foot kitchen and store front on Calgary’s 42 Avenue SW, Delissitude is settling into a different way of connecting with customers – storefront versus farmers’ market. But because he’s looking for word of mouth exposure and customer input on the taste of new recipes, Betke says he’s put his name in to return to market sales too.

A couple of part-timers work the store front or do deliveries for Delissitude’s wholesale business of gluten-free perogies. Betke says he relies on the thriving wholesale side of the operation, which now accounts for well over half of his business.

That’s where the continued growth looks brightest, Betke admits, adding he’s definitely had jittery moments – even tears – in knowing it’ll take time to bring the business to the vision he has for it. He thanks stalwart family and friends for picking him up and holding him steady when he has had those wobbles – best called growing pains.

“I just got a new machine to help with product automation, because handpinched perogies take time,” he says, adding Delissitude frozen perogies (gluten-, dairy-, nut-free, some vegan options) are in demand from as far away as Grande Prairie, Fort McMurray – even Winnipeg, “I’ve been working to find new wholesalers (current spots include Sobeys/ Safeway/FreshCo, IGA, and independents like Amaranth Foods), as the celiac community is active on social media, and they tell each other about great products like our perogies – potato cheddar and potato onion are top sellers.”

Betke says he’s barely been able to get into the kitchen himself – he’s swamped with the administrative side of the business –but adds he’s grateful for the support of fellow gluten-free bakers in Calgary that send customers his way when they don’t have what someone is looking for. “Being totally gluten-, nut-, and dairy-free is pretty unique in a bakery,” Betke adds, “so sometimes we’re the only spot people can get what they need.”

Betke’s desire to be part of the community (gluten-free and otherwise) is already taking shape. Delissitude has signed on with Cubbi, a local platform for corporate catering, (a huge, untouched market, he says) and is selling cupcakes to schools in the area. “I want to support kids in the community; maybe a children’s charity,” he says. Delissitude has also added French macarons (which are always gluten-free) from Edmonton’s Bakenary Pastries to its storefront business. Owner Darya Naidenkova (the pair met when both had a booth at the recent lifestyle expo in St. Albert), says Betke is a supportive partner with plenty of ideas for their collaboration. “it’s been very successful to have our macarons at Delissitude. In Calgary, we’re only there and at the Christmas markets. It’s rare to have a totally gluten-free bakery that is successful – and with such tasty products. I’m hearing from customers – people are loving it.”

A busy entrepreneur (who admits he’s putting in more than 12-hour days for now), Betke sources the necessary wheat flour replacements – rice flour, oat, millet, quinoa, chickpea and more – as much as possible with local suppliers, using just the right option for texture, chew, and flavour, depending on what’s being baked. He’s also considering customer requests for pretzels, English muffins, and multi-grain artisan breads.

“We’ve pulled off a white loaf and hamburger/hot dog buns, plus our top sellers, muffins and cupcakes – all great,” adds Betke, who says he’s a cook at heart, wanting to hear the good and bad reviews from customers, whether he’s experimenting with custom specialty cakes of vanilla and chocolate, tweaks on cupcake flavours like pumpkin spice, carrot cake, lemon and red velvet, or playing with the structural results when trying yet another gluten-free alternative. “I offered one customer who wanted a gluten-free sheet cake to try the cupcakes using my flour blend recipe. She keeps coming back, so that says something.”

“It’s all part of the plan – to connect with the gluten-free community in person and on social media and to meet customers and other vendors/businesses at lifestyle expos or markets. I want a storefront bakery that’s also a marketplace, to work with other local makers and import other readymade, gluten-free products.”

Betke’s likely got a good bet going – the gluten-free food market continues to see growth, whether thanks to wellness trends or out of necessity for those who cannot tolerate gluten. Gluten-free is now mainstream, with sweet and savoury goods in the frozen food section of the supermarket, along with keto, paleo, sugar-free, low-carb options, at specialty groceries or at the local farmers’ market with cookies, buns and more on offer. Betke says it can still be a more expensive option though, so he’s on a mission to keep products competitively priced, meet his local grocery store operators, and sell himself along with his gluten-, nut-, and dairy-free creations.

“I knew from the start there was massive potential in the business – it will take time, but I’m just getting going.”