Breakout Breakfasts

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

The origin of the word ‘breakfast’ is in the word itself: to break one’s fast which occurs while sleeping. Of course, with dishes like the ones here, breakfast for dinner (or any other meal for that matter) could quickly become a trend in your household.

When Chef Tony Tipping needs a little inspiration, he takes his cues from his environment. “I either go for a walk through my garden or in the forest, roam the farmer’s market, or pull out a cookbook from my collection of over 150 books.”

The Chef and co-owner of WildRoots Bistro in St. Albert, his favourite menu item is the Pizzwich, a cross between a pizza and sandwich. “We have developed a really great dough, and we can change the fillings based on what is in season or what I’m in the mood for.”

Keeping up with the ‘two-for-one’ trend, here he shares a recipe for Tiramisu Pancakes. “My wife and son love both, so I needed to find a way to combine them into one dish. I also took it as a personal challenge to make the thickest pancakes possible.” His trick? Stainless steel All-Clad gratin dishes. Keeping things clean and organized is key in his kitchen. “Measure everything out before you start cooking, and clean as you go. Have fun, and don’t rush it!”

Four Alberta chefs bring the sweet and the savoury to the breakfast plate this month, showing us what lies beyond toast and coffee. Rise and shine, folks: the early bird gets fed very, very well!

Tiramisu Pancakes

Serves 4

400 g flour

60 g sugar

30 g baking powder

5 g salt

2½ cups (600 mL) milk

2 whole eggs

½ cup + 1 Tbs (140 mL) canola oil

500 g ricotta

100 g icing sugar

100 g butter

7 Tbs (100 mL) maple syrup

1 shot espresso

1. Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together.

2. Mix together milk, eggs, and canola oil, then blend wet and dry ingredients until a smooth batter forms, let rest 15 minutes before cooking.

3. Bring a greased pan up to medium temperature, dollop 140 g batter into the pan and let gently cook until bubbles start forming on the raw surface, flip and place in the oven for 4 minutes to finish cooking through. Repeat with remaining batter.

4. Place ricotta and sugar in a bowl and whisk together.

5. In a small pot add butter and turn to high heat until butter starts to burn, remove from heat and add maple syrup, whisk to combine.

6. Place pancakes on plates, drizzle with maple brown butter, top with a dollop of the whipped ricotta pressing a well into it with the back of your spoon, pour the espresso shot into the ricotta dollop.

For Chef Jenny Chan of Calgary’s Queens Breakfast Cocktails, inspiration goes hand-in-hand with adventure. “I love exploring Europe to uncover the origins of dishes and ingredients and bringing those discoveries back to my kitchen to craft them afresh with my own imagination.”

This much is evident with dishes like Cr’q Nduja, an Italian spin on the Croque Madame, or the Montreal Smoked Brisket Benedict – served on croissant, of course. “Our Omelette al Tartufo is my favourite,” she says. “I love truffles and all kinds of mushrooms.”

Then there is the Queens Bolognese Poutine: fries, provolone, eggs, hollandaise, and of course, Bolognese. “I love a good ragu. Several years ago, I specifically went to Bologna to learn how the traditional Bolognese is made.”

The key to this one is obviously the sauce. Gather and prep your ingredients, follow instructions precisely – including times and temperatures, and as always, use fresh, quality ingredients. “Learn from your mistakes,” she adds. “If a recipe doesn’t turn out as expected, make adjustments next time, and keep notes. Have fun, and don’t stress over perfection. Experimenting in the kitchen can lead to delightful discoveries!”

Queens Bolognese Poutine

Serves 4

1 recipe of Bolognese sauce

8 cups of crispy hot french fries

2 cups provolone cheese

½ cup Parmigiana Reggiano

8 poached eggs

1 recipe of hollandaise

1. Preheat oven to 400º F.

2. Divide the fries into four skillets. Pile the provolone and Reggiano cheeses on top and then pour over the Bolognese sauce. Place in hot oven to melt everything together.

3. Top with two poached eggs and hollandaise and serve immediately.

Queens Bolognese Sauce

2 Tbs butter

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil

4 Tbs finely diced onion

4 Tbs finely diced carrot

4 Tbs finely diced celery

1/3 cup Italian guanciale, diced

330 g ground pork shoulder and shank

½ cup (120 mL) dry white wine

4 ripe roma tomatoes, diced

1 cup (240 mL) tomato passata

1¾ cups + 2 Tbs (450 mL) vegetable stock

1. In a saucepan over medium heat, add the butter and olive oil.

2. Add onion, carrot and celery to the saucepan and stir for about 5 minutes. When the onions are translucent add the guanciale.

3. After about 10 minutes, add the pork and continue to cook down the liquid from the meat. Once the liquid has mostly evaporated, add the dry white wine and continue to stir the sauce.

4. When wine has mostly evaporated, add the tomatoes, passata and vegetable broth. Reduce heat to low, and continue to cook the sauce, for at least one hour.

Hollandaise Sauce

3 egg yolks

1 Tbs (15 mL) water

1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lemon juice

170-225 g European butter, very soft

To taste sea salt

To taste fresh ground white pepper

1 dash Spanish sweet paprika, optional

Combine the egg yolks, water, and lemon juice in a small saucepan, whisking vigorously until blended. Add half the butter and cook over low heat, stirring with a whisk, until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add remaining butter. Whisk until the butter melts and is fully incorporated, making a smooth, velvety sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika if using. Serve immediately.

Chef Ethan Campbell’s cooking style encompasses both nostalgia and curiosity. “I’m inspired by the connection between memory and flavour,” he explains. “I also draw a lot of inspiration from travel and the people I cook with.”

The Culinary Director of Calgary’s Our Daily Brett, Chef Ethan’s menus reflect tradition and seasonality with approachable, global appeal. The Classic Breakfast is just that – eggs, toast, hashbrowns – but alongside it are things like Shakshuka, The Nordic Breakfast, and Sicilian Pandoro.

It’s no surprise, then, that his top tip for making breakfast is, “Make it bold, but keep it simple. Let one thing shine and support it with a few flavourful extras.”

Spanish Baked Eggs with Saffron Yogurt is a hearty dish with a smokysweet flavour that can be served right out of the pan. He says that it started off as a staff meal that quickly became a go-to for family-style brunches. “But it works just as well as a comforting dinner,” he adds. Take your time building the sauce, use good quality eggs, and don’t overbake them, says Chef Ethan. “And always toast the bread – it’s your spoon!”

Spanish Baked Eggs with Saffron

Yogurt

Serves 4

2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp ground cumin

½ tsp chili flakes, optional

2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste

1 cup (250 mL) dry Spanish apple cider

(or a splash of white wine or stock)

1 – 784 g can fire-roasted crushed tomatoes

To taste salt and pepper

2 medium tomatoes, halved

1½ cups cooked chickpeas (or 1 can, rinsed)

200 g Spanish chorizo, sliced (cured or cooked)

8 large eggs

Olive oil, for drizzling

Grilled sourdough or crusty bread

1. In a large, oven-safe pan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add chopped onion and cook until soft, about 5–6 minutes. Add garlic, smoked paprika, cumin, and chili flakes, if using. Cook for one more minute.

2. Stir in tomato paste, then pour in the cider. Let it bubble and reduce for a minute or two. Add the crushed tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and simmer sauce gently for 15–20 minutes until thickened slightly.

3. Place tomato halves cut-side down in a hot skillet or on a grill. Cook until the cut sides are nicely charred and softened. Roughly chop and set aside.

4. Stir the cooked chickpeas, sliced chorizo, and chopped charred tomatoes into the sauce. Let simmer for 5 minutes so the flavours combine.

5. Preheat your oven to 375° F. Use a spoon to make 8 small wells in the sauce and crack an egg into each one. Drizzle the eggs lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt.

Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for 10–12 minutes, or until the egg whites are set and the yolks are still soft.

6. Remove the pan from the oven. Spoon the saffron yogurt over the top, scatter the blistered shishito peppers, and sprinkle with chopped parsley and flaky salt. Bring the whole pan to the table and serve with warm, grilled sourdough.

Saffron Yogurt

Pinch saffron threads

1 Tbs (15 mL) warm water

¾ cup (180 mL) plain skyr or Greek yogurt

1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice

To taste salt

Soak the saffron threads in warm water for 10 minutes. In a small bowl, stir the saffron water into the yogurt along with lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Chill until ready to serve.

Garnish

12–16 shishito peppers (or small sweet peppers or padron peppers)

Olive oil (for blistering peppers)

Fresh parsley (optional)

Flaky salt

Heat a splash of olive oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Add the shishito peppers and cook until blistered and slightly charred, turning occasionally (about 4–5 minutes). Sprinkle with salt and set aside.

For a vegetarian version, skip the chorizo and add smoked paprika roasted mushrooms or eggplant.

At Edmonton’s Golden Sparrow you’ll find Chef Mizra Taimoor, whose culinary journey started when he moved from Oman to Canada – PEI to be exact – in 2017. “What began as a line cook job quickly turned into a passion, pushing to hone my craft and rise through the ranks to become sous chef.”

He draws inspiration from around the world, balancing technique, imagination, elegance, and playfulness. His favourite dishes to create are desserts, and on Golden Sparrow’s menu, it’s the Tallest Chocolate Cake that, well, takes the cake. “It’s not just an afterthought,” he says. “It’s an event.”

Raspberry and Mascarpone Cheese Stuffed French Toast is a showstopper itself, with creamy mascarpone, tart raspberries, and brioche bread. “This is one of my go-to dishes that brings joy to the entire family. It’s a perfect brunch treat for Mother’s Day, as well!”

Keep things simple and use quality local ingredients where you can. “Try using different types of bread or substituting raspberries for any other berries for a unique twist.”

Raspberry and Mascarpone Stuffed French Toast

Serves 4

227g mascarpone cheese, cold

⅓ cup powdered sugar, sifted

1 tsp vanilla bean paste

330 g fresh raspberries (plus extra for topping)

1 brioche loaf, cut into 2.5 cm slices

1 cup (250 mL) whole milk

3 eggs

1 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp vanilla extract

¼ tsp fine sea salt

Butter for frying French toasts

½ cup (125 mL) heavy cream, cold

1 Tbs granulated sugar

Maple or agave syrup, optional

1. Combine mascarpone, powdered sugar, and vanilla until smooth. Set aside.

2. Spread a generous layer of mascarpone filling on one side of each brioche slice. Top with raspberries, then place another slice on top to make a sandwich.

3. Whisk together milk, eggs, cinnamon, vanilla, and salt in a bowl until fully combined.

4. Dip each sandwich into the batter, ensuring all sides are well coated.

5. Heat a skillet over medium-low heat, melt butter, and cook each soaked brioche for 2–3 minutes per side until golden and crispy.

6. Using an electric mixer, combine heavy cream and sugar until soft peaks form and top toast with whipped cream, fresh raspberries, and a drizzle of maple or agave syrup. Best served warm with a fresh coffee or tea.