Galettes Bretonnes

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

My first taste of a Galette Bretonne was in a small cafe in Montreal. I was traveling alone, visiting friends in my favourite city, and on the last day of my stay I wanted a quick bite before heading off to the airport.

I’m no stranger to crêpes, having been making them myself since I was a young adult, but I remember letting out an audible swoon as the plate of Galettes Bretonnes was placed before me. Charmed by the four corners neatly tucked in, with just the golden orb of the egg peeking out, the thin buckwheat crepe had a rustic earthiness that complemented the sweet nuttiness of the Gruyère and saltiness of the thinly shaved ham. I tucked in with my knife and fork at hand, taking great pleasure in bursting the yolk, watching the yellow sunshine slowly snake onto the ham and cheese.

This savoury recipe originated in Brittany, France, and is a true celebration of classic French brunch (or dinner) showcasing crêpes, eggs, Gruyère, and ham. The crêpes are traditionally made with buckwheat flour, which is naturally gluten-free. Without the elasticity of gluten, the batter can be difficult to work with, so I added some all-purpose as well, with terrific results. The buckwheat adds an earthy, almost mineral influence to the dish, while the addition of all-purpose flour makes the crêpes easy to flip and fold. The first crêpe out of the gate is usually a little misshapen, but that’s okay, you now have a snack to nibble on while you make the remaining thin pancakes.

Before the crêpes are wrapped around shredded cheese, thinly shaved ham, and sunny eggs, they are called Crêpes Bretonnes. Once they’re filled, they’re now known as Galettes Bretonnes.

Assembling the affair is simplified by having two skillets going at once - one to cook the eggs, and the other to warm the crêpe, cheese, and ham, ensuring the underside is golden and crispy. I added some roasted mushrooms to the plate, as I’m a fan of the fungi and I had some in the refrigerator that needed tending to. This is purely optional, but I think the dish was better for it.

Of course, you can eat the crêpes with sweet things too. Berries, whipped cream, you name it. I’m sure the French won’t mind.

Galettes Bretonnes

Serves 4 with leftover crêpes for another day

¾ cup plus 3 Tbs buckwheat flour (light or dark)

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¾ tsp salt

1 large egg

1¼ cups (300 mL) whole milk

1 1/3 cup (325 mL) water

Butter, for cooking crepes

Filling: 4 eggs

1 cup grated Gruyère cheese

4 slices thinly sliced ham

1 cup sautéed or roasted mushrooms

1 Tbs chopped green onion

1. In a large bowl, whisk together the buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour, and salt. Crack the egg into a small dish then add this to the flour mixture along with the milk and water. Whisk until thoroughly combined and slightly aerated. Small bubbles will initially form on the surface when the batter is left to stand. At this point, you could refrigerate the batter for up to one day, or overnight. Bring it to room temperature for 20 minutes before frying the crêpes.

2. In a nonstick (25 cm) or well-seasoned crêpe pan, melt about 1 tsp of butter over medium heat. Add just enough batter to thinly coat the bottom of the pan, about a heaping 1/3 cup (or 90 mL), swirling to evenly cover. Return the pan to the heat and let cook until the bottom is beginning to brown and the top looks dry, about 30 seconds to 1 minute.

3. Use a spatula and carefully flip the crêpe over and cook the other side for about 30 seconds. Slide the crêpe onto a large plate. Continue cooking the crêpes until all the batter is used up. Be sure to melt butter in the pan each time.

4. Keep the cooked crêpes stacked and covered with a clean kitchen towel. This makes about 8-9 crêpes. Any leftover crêpes can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

5. To assemble the Galettes Bretonnes with cheese, ham, and eggs, I do the following: In a nonstick skillet, cook the eggs in a little butter until cooked to your desired doneness. Keep warm. In another skillet, warm a cooked crêpe over medium-low heat. Scatter shredded cheese on top of the crêpe, then top with a slice of ham. Cook until the bottom of the crêpe is browned and crisp and the cheese is melted, about 30 seconds. Slide the crêpe onto a plate and add a cooked egg on top of the ham. Fold the sides of the crêpe in, garnish with sautéed or roasted mushrooms and green onion. Repeat with the remaining crêpes and eggs/ ham/cheese.

Galettes Bretonnes