Latitudes & Attitudes #27 Summer 2019

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™ 2019 The Bitchin Group, Inc.

Special Stuff

In This Issue...

Issue #27 Summer 2019

Page 19

Page 49

Jessie & Luke Cruise Morocco

Panama - A Cruiser’s Paradise

Page 58

Page 76

BVI Share The Sail

Sailing Nomad

Page 96

Page 102

Prepping for Passage

I Am Not a Sailor Girl

Page 130

Page 136

Fishy Business

Angles of Perplexity

Page 140

Page 146

Selling Up or Sailing On

Searching for Zorba Subscription Info on Page 82-83

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Latitudes & Attitudes 7 5/1/19 4:32 PM

Regular Stuff

In This Issue...

Issue #27 Summer 2019

Page 26

Page 44

Lats & Atts

Scuttlebutt

Another Way Tania Aebi

Page 68

Page 70

Boat Spotlight Beneteau 46.1

Boat Spotlight McConaghy Catamaran

Page 72

Page 84

Boat Spotlight North Pacific 45

Underway

Photos from Cruisers

Page 106

Page 110

Life Aboard

Lats & Atts

Page 194

Boat People!

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Lifestyle

Page 14 Page 138 Page 42 Page 153 Page 193

Also This Issue Bob Bitchin’s Attitudes Tech Tips Cap’n Cap’n Boat Show Section Mackie White W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

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Latitudes & Attitudes 9 4/26/19 2:17 PM

™ Photo: © Onne van der Wal

Janitorial Assistant Bob Bitchin bob@LatsAtts.com Editor Katie “Bitchin” Chestnut katie@LatsAtts.com Editor at Large Sue Morgan sue@LatsAtts.com Boat Show Queen Jody “Bitchin” Lipkin jody@LatsAtts.com Staff Infection Tania Aebi Contributor Zuzana Prochazka zuzana@LatsAtts.com Life Aboard Queen Robin Stout robin@LatsAtts.com Web & Art Guru Richard Marker rich@LatsAtts.com

Better Winches Better Sailing Fewer wraps Smoother operation Reduced rope wear Less maintenance Timeless finish *winch shown with stainless steel ZT-finish

Media Princess Tabitha “Bitchin” Lipkin tabitha@LatsAtts.com Marketing & Video Darren O’Brien darren@LatsAtts.com BS Slaves Jeff & Marie Inshaw jeff@LatsAtts.com ------------------------------ADVERTISING Advertising Goddess Lisa O’Brien lisa@LatsAtts.com 510-900-3616 Ext #105 Latitudes & Attitudes Box100 Berry Creek, CA 95916 Phone 510-900-3616 info@LatsAtts.com Office Cats Jessie & Katie

This Issue’s Cover:

Luke & Jessie’s story starts on page 19. This shot was taken after they repaired their rudder in Portugal and were sailing to the Caribbean, getting better attitudes in the lower latitudes.

People Who Helped Us Create This Issue Jessie Zevalkink-Yeats Russell Goedjen Ray Jason Lea Ann Rock Suzy Carmody Gregory A. Larsen Douglas Weibel Melanie Farmer Kathy Jura John Woods Jessica Lloyd-Mostyn Chuck Ridgeway Capt. James Cash

People Who Didn’t Help Us with This Issue Donald Trump Eleizabeth Warren Bernie Sanders

Printed in the USA We Support the Boating Industry

LATITUDES & ATTITUDES DIVISION OF THE BITCHIN GROUP, INC. (USPS 011-950) is published quarterly by Latitudes & Attitudes, 9353 Oroville Quincy Hwy, Berry Creek, CA 95916.

Periodical Postage paid at Berry Creek, CA and additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Latitudes & Attitudes, PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416.

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Subscription Information -Latitudes & Attitudes PO Box 15416 - North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416 Subscriber Service 818-286-3159 LatsAtts.com/subscribe-latitudes-and-attitudes-magazine/

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A real friend is one who walks in when the rest of the world walks out.—W. Winchell

This editorial ran in the very first issue of Latitudes & Attitudes, March, 1997.

So ya gotta add 20 years to the times referred to therein, but the feelings have not changed. This is what Latitudes & Attitudes is all about!

By Bob Bitchin Cruising, what a concept...to put all of your worldly belongings on a sailboat, haul up some canvas, and sail off into the sunset. Everybody dreams of doing it, but only a very few are ever really crazy enough to cast off the lines. This publication is dedicated to those of us who are just crazy enough to live this lifestyle, those of us who cram our lives into an area just a tad larger than the average jail cell, point a vessel toward the open sea, and truly believe that, with just the wind at our backs, we will actually see landfall on the other side of the horizon...those of us who have found the reality in our dreams.

Some 20 years ago, I sailed out of San Francisco aboard a topsail square-rigged schooner called Stone Witch. Built and captained by my mentor, Alan Olsen, she had no motor, sported four 22-foot oars as her auxiliary power, and ran under kerosene running lights. We hauled the anchor by hand and raised the sails without winches. We drank tepid Kool Aid, lived off of canned corned beef, and loved every damned minute of it.

And I fell in love with cruising.

Now I don’t want you to get the wrong idea. I am not a purist. I enjoyed my initiation to cruising, but I learned from it. Times change and people do, too. Now my favorite saying is, “I cannot recommend decadence as a way of life, but it works for me.” People who substitute storage (or even bathtubs!) for engines are a few bricks short of a full load in my book. As I said, my first cruising was done the hard way, but in the intervening 20 years I have gone full-tilt in the other direction. Such luxuries as a TV, VCR, SSB, radar, autopilot, and microwave are just the beginning.

The man who invented the watermaker is a deity in my book, as is the man who came up with GPS. Solar panels fill my batteries so my icemaker won’t

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let me down—there is nothing like the sound of ice tinkling in a glass at sunset as you cross the equator. The days of tepid Kool Aid have passed— and good riddance.

For almost 20 years I have lived aboard sailing vessels and cruised well over 75,000 miles. In just the past five years I have had the pleasure of sailing some 45,000 miles to the most beautiful places in the world. During this time, I have shouted “I hate boats” a thousand times, sailed with idiots and geniuses, seen poverty and riches, and have been fortunate enough to join the family of cruising sailors—that stupid breed of human that spends weeks at sea in heavy weather, with water dripping into every orifice, and actually has a smile on his face as he enters a storm-swollen harbor. To those who have never done it, you just can’t explain what it’s all about, and to those who have lived it, no explanation is needed.

Latitudes & Attitudes has a special meaning for sailors. Sailing the lower lats is what we live for, and attitude is all important. Quoting another cruising mentor of mine, Dr. Larry Hazen, who sailed off some 13 years ago for a “three-year cruise” and is still out there, “Attitude is the only difference between an ordeal and an adventure.”

Latitudes & Attitudes is dedicated to this family of crazies, and to the way of life we live. The idea was born during a hundred nights at sea and nurtured in small gatherings on beaches around the world. Input from cruisers met in far flung ports has become a reality, and Latitudes & Attitudes is that reality. Welcome aboard. This is your magazine. It is not published by Daddy Warbucks Industries or Acme Conglomerate Publishers. There’s just me and a couple of cruising friends. If you like it, let me know, and if you don’t, tell me why. w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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The Who, What, Where, Why and When is Becoming

M

any of you already know the story of Latitudes & Attitudes. But, for those who don’t know the history, I will attempt to fill in the blanks without boring you.

The Start Latitudes & Attitudes Magazine was the #1-selling marine title on the newsstands for the majority of its 15-year history. It was started in 1996 by me, Bob Bitchin, and my wife, Jody, with a little help from Keith

Out of sight of land the sailor feels safe. It is the beach that worries him. - Charles Davis

First Issue of Latitudes & Attitudes The first issue of Lats&Atts went on sale March 3, 1997.

It became an instant hit with cruisers and sailors all over the world.

“Bandit” Ball, editor of Easyriders, and Bob Clark, creator of Street Chopper, Trucking, Hot VWs, VW Trends, and a large number of other magazines. Jody and I had just returned from cruising the world and wanted to create a magazine to let “regular boaters and cruisers” know they were not alone, that not all who owned boats were rich, and that many people worked on their own boats and cruised the waterways of the world.

Growing to Radio & TV During its 15 years, Lats&Atts, as it became known by its readers, grew. First it was a ship’s Latitudes & Attitudes TV In 2003 we partnered with Darren O’Brien to create Lats&Atts TV. The show aired for 5 years on cable TV with a total of 65 episodes.

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store, then a clothing line, then a radio station.

Finally, in 2004, it became a network television show that aired for five years and 65 episodes.

In 2011, Jody and I decided it was time to sell our creation, finish building our Shannon 52 that was under construction in Bristol, Rhode Island, and sail off into the sunset once again.

The Bitchin-Shannon Global 52 The plan was to create the world’s best cruising vessel and we partnered with Shannon Yachts, Harken and Furuno.

The boat was never finished!

The Plan An offer was made and accepted. We moved to some land in the Sierra Nevada Mountains (yes, where the 2018 “Paradise” fire took place, missing us by about 2 miles) and started making plans to cruise.

But, unbeknownst to us, the new owners had no plans to actually pay us. Over the next 90 days, the magazine was shut down, the TV show discontinued, the website and radio show shut down, and the bank accounts emptied, while the credit cards were all maxed out.

I filed bankruptcy at 68 years of age. It looked pretty bleak.

But then a little over 700 Lats&Atts readers reached out and sent $250 each to start a new magazine. We are forever grateful to our “Founders.”

Thou Shalt Not...

Now here’s the thing. There are three things you should never do.

1) Start any business at 68 years of age; 2) Start a print magazine in the age of the internet; 3) Start anything in the marine industry in the current economic situation. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

4/26/19 12:34 PM

First Issue of Cruising Outpost After losing what we thought was everything, almost 700 of our L&A readers sent in $250 each to become “Founders.”

We did all three.

Within a year the new title, Cruising Outpost Magazine, became the #1-selling print marine publication on the newsstands nation-wide.

But people (mostly the staff!) still missed the original Latitudes & Attitudes.

It was Charles Tobias, an old friend from Tortola who owns Pussers and has Marina Cay, who came to our rescue. While sitting in his office on The Man Who Brought Back L&A

Our friend, Charles Tobias.

He is the man who made it possibe to get the Lats&Atts name back, from his office in Tortola in the BVI.

Tortola one afternoon, he asked if we’d gotten the trademark back.

Not knowing the legalities of such things, I said I thought we couldn’t. We had signed a bill of sale, essentially giving the title over to the new people.

We’d been told that the only way to get it back was to sue the new buyers. But, as it turned out, they’d left the country for Central America and already had a large number of judgments against them from previous “deals,” the largest of which was for over $3 million.

Charles picked up the phone and called his lawyer in Washington D.C. Within a matter of minutes, Latitudes & Attitudes was back in mine and Jody’s control.

That was a little while back, in 2017.

We brought back some of the old logo clothing and sayings, but had to give a lot of thought on w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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whether to bring back the title or not. After all, Cruising Outpost was doing pretty well, and was, once again, the #1-selling marine title on the newsstands.

On a recent Share The Sail event (which was created by Lats & Atts!) we were standing at the entrance to Corsair’s on Jost van Dyke. It was for Share The Sail Flotillas We created the Share The Sail to introduce people to the cruising lifesyle by taking them out cruising. What a concept!

a party, and a couple asked one of the participants what it was all about.

She said, “We are here with Cruising Outpost’s Share the Sail.” The couple replied, “What’s Cruising Outpost?”

She told them it was the same as the old Latitudes & Attitudes.

“Oh yeah!” they exclaimed. “That’s a great magazine. We’ve heard of that.”

It was at that time the decision to go back to Latitudes & Attitudes was made.

Don’t Ye Worry Lads & Lassies – Subscriptions Carry Over to the New “Old” Title Your subscription to Cruising Outpost will carry forward with Latitudes & Attitudes. There will be no change in schedule, no change in subscriptions. And our Founders Circle, who made all this possible, as well as Charter subscribers, will remain Founders and Charter Members forever. If it wasn’t for them, you would not be reading this!

Things Don’t Really Change Here we are, Bob Bitchin and Jody 23 years ago, creating the first issue of Latitudes & Attitudes aboard our boat, The Lost Soul.

Latitudes & Attitudes 17 4/26/19 12:34 PM

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Jessie & Luke

Cruise Morocco ats valkink-Ye

e

By Jessie Z

We read as much as we could about sailing to Morocco. Too much. In fact, I wish I hadn’t read a thing. It was equivalent to searching WebMD when you are concerned about your health: All signs pointing towards danger. It’s incorrect. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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J essie & L uke I place my fingertips on either side of the concrete wall and position my feet on the indicated area above the hole. I squat down to the original way humans were created to defecate. Apprehensive about my balance and blood flow that’s been cut off below my knees, I go. It’s a miracle how perfect the angle is. It goes into the ground without a noise. I use the water spigot and bucket provided to “flush.” I stand, proud, and exit the room with the hole in the ground. I am at a police station in Morocco. Luke and I have just sailed here.

We read as much as we could about sailing to Morocco. Too much. In fact, I wish I hadn’t read a thing. It was equivalent to searching WebMD when you are concerned about your health: All signs point towards danger. It’s incorrect. Most of it. We had our concerns about sailing to Africa. There was the language barrier, attracting unwanted attention, being a bunch of western blondes on a beautiful sailing ship who sailed without insurance. I wasn’t confident I had the correct papers for Tato the cat. And, I was entering a country as a female captain, where many females still have to be given permission to drive a vehicle. I had my concerns, and I knew I was going to make my mother very nervous.

Getting knocked down off the coast of Portugal had resulted in two months of grueling boat yard work.

Important repairs had to be made before sailing to Morocco, and ultimately to cross the ocean again. For example, building a brand new rudder. Finding the right materials and tools took twice the time we expected it to.

We did not get splashed back into the sea until just before the new year. Itching wildly for the next challenge, our hearts were set on Morocco, despite the lack of reliable information.

We wanted an experience, not a tropical island.

We plotted approximately 350 nautical miles across the Straights of Gibraltar, marking our way in little Xs on our NV Charts over flat seas and tailwinds accurately forecasted from MAZU. Marking these charts is a navigator’s greatest joy.

Progress appears slow at first;

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C ruise M orocco but, centimeter by centimeter, the Xs create a path, and as the days pass this visual becomes deeply satisfying. Eventually, these charts become precious souvenirs, antiques hanging on walls, inspiring nostalgia and pride. This short passage to Morocco gifted us desert sunrises with densely saturated reds and oranges. Infinite stars encouraged your mind to wander into an alternate universe.

Contrails of phosphorescence were stirred up by visiting dolphins each night. It was, without question, the most beautiful passage I have ever sailed.

After waiting a few miles off the coast for sunrise, we pulled into Essaouira, a bustling fishing port and unknowingly touristy town. We were the only sailboat. A man waved us over to a cement wall, speaking to us in French, which none of us speak. He wants the captain to come with him, right now. I climb up the ladder with my paperwork and he shifts his head in confusion. I follow two “guards” to the Harbor Master’s office, reluctantly walking away from my husband and home. We walk, and walk, and walk, until I follow a man through a corridor to a simple office cooled by cement walls and soft light. He speaks no English, and pushes some French paperwork in my direction. I fill out three sheets of paper work to my best ability, knowing that he likely won’t be able to read what I write. I pay him in euros and he accepts, even though their currency is dirham. The Harbor Master sends me to the Coast Guard station. I fill out three more sheets of the same paper.

The Coast Guard sends me to the Police station, where I fill out three more sheets of the same paper. Three offices within the same block, and a dozen broken-English conversations later, I find myself in the room with the hole in the ground. This is adding up to be an epic cultural experience.

We want to go to the desert. I ask several different men in different kinds of uniforms if it is “safe” to leave our boat unattended. Don’t google this question.

This tactic is exactly the same as looking up several weather forecasts and choosing to trust the one you like the most. Three completely separate men, tell me as long as w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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J essie & L uke we lock the boat, that the boat is perfectly safe. “Very safe,” in fact. I don’t know if I believe it. But I want to. So I do. I knock on the Coast Guard boat docked just in front of us and with sign language and slow English, I ask if he can keep an eye out for us while we are away. He seems to understand and agree. And so, apprehensively, we go.

Desiree remains unattended for two days and two nights, in a completely unsecure harbor where the homeless beg, the children play, and locals and tourists are free to wander. I knew many would consider this a very bad idea, but I am feeling the pull between my responsibilities as captain and the innate desire to explore. The part of me that believes that people are good wins over the part of me that understands that a lot of people are not. We drive far outside of the touristy area where they cater to euros instead of dirhams, English instead of Arabic, and flushing toilets instead of holes in the ground. The three of us can’t hide. This is the first time I’ve ever longed to fit in.

A donkey crosses the motorway. Goats perch high up on tree branches. Cats patrol their territory. Skinny dogs bake in the sun. Boys kick a ball to and fro. Girls collect provisions. Men drink tea at the internet cafe.

Fully-covered women walk arm-in-arm. There are rusty blue doors. Brightly patterned rugs. Open fire tagines.

Harsh sunlight fades reds to pinks. Shepards walkabout the fields. Flatbeds stacked with tangerines. Cloaks with pointy hoods. Disorganized movement of vehicles. We receive long looks. They all smile, each and every one.

Their curiosity is felt.

It doesn’t take us more than 30 minutes to get pulled over by the police for speeding. One hundred fifty dirham. Slow down, they request, smiling and gladly accepting our money (about $40 US). Thirty miles outside of Marrakech, the Atlas Mountains give our journey scale. When you arrive at a destination by sailboat, often the most attractive experience are the places you can’t get to via sailboat. Inland. Desert.

Mountains. Backroads. We mark out the land on our NV

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C ruise M orocco Chart as we travel inland, just for fun.

Two days later we have driven over the Atlas mountains, into the Sahara, and back over the Atlas mountains. Tired. Cultured.

Full. Relieved to find the boat exactly as we left it, untouched and awaiting our arrival. The following day was for preparing the boat for the next port. Water, provisions, engine check, etc.

Our presence seemed to be known by everyone upon our return from the desert. I couldn’t complete a single task without interruption.

We awake to an old man trying to sell us a puppy.

It’s difficult to deny a puppy, but we have to send him on his way. The next man tries to sell us a fishing line wrapped around half of a flip flop, with a rock tied to the end. Luke buys it for five euro. A woman lingers beside our boat quietly, with beautiful eyes and a gracious smile.

She waits until no one else is around, then cups her palms and holds them out. She wants money. I had none left. A cat comes and lays as close as it can to the edge of the cement wall. He purrs and stretches waiting for us to give him food. We do. The cat is happy and it leaves. A young man arrives and asks for clothes. Oddly enough I had a bag of clothes I was trying to get rid of. I pass it over and he thanks us. The Harbor Master arrives and tells me I must come with him. He needs all new paperwork filled out because it had been one day longer than we said we would stay. By 4 p.m., I had accomplished nothing.

I left Morocco inspired. Wide eyed. Feeling creative.

Curious. Fortunate. It felt wild, colorful, and foreign. The inconveniences, vulnerability, and cultural barriers ultimately didn’t matter.

Gracious locals made us feel welcomed.

Kids looked at us like celebrities. There were moments of being overwhelmed, as it seemed our appearance was associated with wealth. And in comparison, we were.

The simplicity of their lives was eye-opening, and their fascination with our western culture held strong. Depending on who you ask, this same experience may result in completely different explanations. As for mine, it was spectacular. A kind reminder to take other’s experiences with a grain of salt, as yours may be completely different. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Lats&Atts Scuttlebutt If It’s Gonna Happen, It’s Gonna Happen Out There

Issue #27

All The News That Fits Between The Sheets

Here Comes The Big One?

Dr. Simon Day of the Benfield Greig Hazard Research Center in London is warning that the entire Eastern Seaboard could be inundated by a tidal wave almost 2000 feet in height. He’s been checking out the volcanic activity in the Canary Islands, and reached that conclusion when he calculated a large chunk of La Palma Island could break off and fall into the sea.

Swiss researchers created a model of the predicted event, and say it could cause a 2,000-foot wave to travel across the Atlantic at 450 miles per hour, striking the Eastern Seaboard within 8 hours. Stolen from the pages of Yachting World.

Summer 2019

Confused? Don’t Be!

For those of you who are a little confused about the new (old?) name of Latitudes & Attitudes, and might be wondering what happened to Cruising Outpost you will find the whole story on pages 16 and 17 in this issue.

Suffice it to say, we have been trying for seven years to make the change. You will see a little difference in the graphics and quality, as when we created Cruising Outpost we were able to redesign and modernize the look of the magazine, which was started back in 1996 while we were sailing the world.

Now we have once again been given the chance to bring the style up to date, as we once again get to use the name that started the whole genre of the cruising lifestyle magazine. If you like it, tell your friends. If you don’t, please tell us! This magazine is designed for the cruiser, be it on sailboats, power boats, or just a dream!

Doing the Impossible!

There are those who say nothing is impossible.

I say humbug! I do nothing every day!!

Nautical Trivia

There is an old saying that “It’s cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey.” This is an old sailor’s way of saying it was cold out, but do you know where that saying came from?

Wanna Cheat? Answer is on page 38

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Take It AND Leave It?

There’s something new in the chartering business from the folks at Dream Yacht Charter, and it is perfect for Latitudes & Attitudes readers: long-term charters! They call it Sabbatical Sailing, and it is perfect for folks who are thinking about cruising off into the sunset.

How’s it work? Simple. Instead of chartering a boat for a week or two, charter one for two or three MONTHS! And the rates are a lot less than the weekly charters.

This is perfect for people who want to see if the cruising lifestyle is right for them, without selling the family farm first.

So, you can pick up a boat in the BVI, and sail to Trinidad through the best cruising grounds in the world, and then turn in the boat.

Testing the waters of the cruising life has never been easier. More at DreamYachtCharter.com.

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Peer-to-Peer Slips

Cabe Nolan ignited his entrepreneurial spirit with his first business launch while in high school, and he hasn’t slowed down since. The idea for Dock Skipper manifested after Cabe’s uncle (a yacht broker) needed an extra hand for a delivery and offered the opportunity to Cabe. As Cabe traveled up the Intracoastal Waterway on a trip from the Florida Keys to St. Augustine, one thing jumped out at him: “I remember thinking about how many docks were going unused on a nightly basis...The idea continued to evolve as I realized the limited availability and high price at many marinas. I saw the potential for a modern, tech-friendly approach to listing and renting dock space and marina slips.” By early 2015, Dock Skipper had launched and it’s now growing steadily.

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Climate Change Killing Penguins

Sailboats Delivered by Sail

Experts say global warming is wreaking havoc on Beneteau has confirmed its interest in the Magellanic penguins in South America.

Neoline project for the transatlantic transportation Two separate studies have been published which of its boats. scientists say are evidence of the increasing plight The company has found a solution with the service felt by the animals as a direct result of global warming. to facilitate its exports, while significantly reducing its A colony of Adelie penguins in Antarctica are environmental impact. finding it harder to find food as sea ice melts. In a Neoline is developing a highly energy-efficient separate study, scientists say Magellanic penguins in transatlantic transport line with innovative cargo Argentina are being killed by global warming sailing ships specialized in rolling and oversized According to one of the projects, climate change is freight. It is scheduled to start in 2021. killing off chicks from the world’s biggest colony of Magellanic penguins in Argentina.

There was also a special on the BBC showing the Emperor Penguins chicks are also dying due to warming, as the flow ice melts before the chicks are old enough to be on their own.

Sailor vs. Landlubber

Wind is to us what money is to life on shore!

Russian “Rat” Ship Adrift

Originally, the m/v Lyubov Orlova was a cruiser taking well-heeled Russians on tours around the Arctic. The 295-foot ship is now adrift off the coast of Ireland, its only passengers a horde of disease-ridden rats.

Last February it was being towed from Canada to the Dominican Republic when the line between the vessels broke. Canadian authorities did not take it to port, however. Instead, it towed the Orlova beyond Canadian waters and let it drift out to sea. I guess if you find it, it’s yours! Maritime law!!

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FOR OVER 30 YEARS THE MACK FAMILY HAS BEEN PROVIDING FIRST CLASS YACHT REPAIRS AND SERVICES...

INTRODUCING MACK YACHT SERVICES! ♦ chainplates ♦ electronics ♦ electrical ♦ refrigeration ♦ air conditioning ♦ carpentry ♦ fiberglass ♦ painting ♦ varnish ♦ watermakers ♦ folding props

Island Packet Refit Specialists www.mackyachtservices.com 772-260-4912 info@mackyachtservices.com 800-531-7024 W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

pg 31 Mack Yacht Services.indd 1

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Lindblad Discovers a Ton of Junk!

Sven Lindblad, Founder of Lindblad Expeditions, and his fiancé Kristin Hettermann, Founder of Oceanscapes, were exploring the coastline of the Hawaiian island of Lānai by when they spotted a large mass of fishing net and plastic trash had washed ashore.

After snorkeling to the spot and climbing to investigate, Lindblad and Hettermann saw something that shocked them both—a mass of fishing net so dense that it could not be budged, an amalgamation of fishing and cargo nets, buoys, and other plastic trash. They estimated it to weigh 1500 to 2000 pounds and be about 30 feet in length.

“It just didn’t seem right to leave it there, especially in the middle of this stormy weather, when we had the capacity and resources to do something about it.”

They reached out to Captain Jason Allen of Fish N Chips for a quote to charter him and a local free diver, Skylar Fisher, to reclaim the trash and take it to a place where it could be more easily and properly disposed of by the island’s services.

It’s Common Knowledge

Two of the most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.”

Harlan Ellison

The Man Knows From What He Speaks!

To desire nothing beyond what you have is surely happiness. Aboard a boat, it is frequently possible to achieve just that. That is why sailing is way of life, one of the finest of lives.

Carleton Mitchell

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Water, water, anywhere

Rainman Naked - Minimum footprint installation

Whether your watermaker is being used for short weekends away or serious expeditions to the Antarctic, you can be confident in the reliability of a Rainman system, being free of electronics and using simple pumps.

Our next generation release for 2019 is 4 kg (9 lb) lighter and 30% reduced volume compared to our original electric systems.

See website for details.

rainmandesal.com

Lats& Atts Scutt lebutt

Eric Stone’s Paradise Cruise

Join Eric Stone aboard the s/v Mandalay for a seven-day, six-night tour of the Grenadines! It all starts July 14th, and includes concerts by Eric along the way. Since this is “his” ship, he actually gets to pick where he wants to go and how long to stay. You can’t do that on any other cruise. Visit a selection of islands which may include Grenada, Carriacou, Union Island, Mayreau, Tobago Cays, Bequia and possibly other stops along the way.

This looks like so much fun We just might want to go along on this musical voyage! Get the latest online here: CatamaranConcerts.com/events.

Man’s Best Friend

According to a new survey, 90% of men say their lover is also their best friend. Which is really kind of disturbing when you consider man’s best friend Jay Leno is his dog.”

1

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Fun Ideas!

NEW!

Legacy Sport

Welcome back Lats & Atts!

In 1974 we had a great idea: build a seaworthy yacht with a strong committment to value. For the past 43 years we have embraced that idea and added plenty of new ones.

Today we have 12 models, six cat-rigged sailboats, five sloop-rigged sailboats and one power launch. Each boat, from a 14’ Picnic Cat to our 27’ Cruiser, is not only hand-built to our original idea but are simply a joy to sail. And isn‘t that why we sail in the first place?

But we won’t stop there. Tell us your dreams and ideas. We’ll work with you to create a truly personalized Com-Pac Yacht. We think you’ll agree that’s a great idea!

Build Your Dream? “ We can Do That!”

Hutchins Co., Inc. 1195 Kapp Drive Clearwater, FL 33765

35 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 35 Compac Yachts.indd 1

www.Com-PacYachts.com info@Com-PacYachts.com 727-443-4408

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New Law Boosts Catches

Exempted fishing permits, or EFPs now allow NOAA Fisheries to temporarily exempt certain vessels from fishing restrictions to test new fishing gear or methods. The trial period also helps NOAA Fisheries determine whether to adopt these changes on a larger scale and create new regulations based on the results. The test has allowed the fleets to catch almost 14-million pounds of fish in 2018 while still protecting salmon and other species.

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Trump Gives Away Free Boat!

It doesn’t matter what side of the aisle you are on, this is funny. While President Trump was touring the areas of North Carolina that had been affected by Hurricane Florence, he stopped to comment on one homeowner’s fortune. Looking at the homeowner’s garden, in which a yacht had washed up, Trump remarked, “At least you got a nice boat out of the deal.”

Okay, Keep It Clean!

What detergent do sailors use? Tide!

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A 300’ True “Green” Sailboat

Philippe Briand has unveiled the latest sailing yacht concept to come from his London-based design studio: the 300-foot sailboat with a traditional sailing rig. The 1,550-ton ketch was created to outperform other sailing megayachts on the water Unlike the growing number of sailing megayachts that are effectively motor-yachts with sails, the SY300 is a sailboat in all aspects. Being fully wind-propelled, she would be a leader in the new wave of “green” superyachts. Her hydrodynamic efficiency means more power could be harnessed through underwater turbines to charge the batteries on board. In the best conditions a maximum speed over 20 knots would be reached . Potentially, if 50% of the energy is captured, it will be the equivalent of that produced by a 500 kW generator, while maintaining around 15 knots.

REAL Caribbean Cruising Lifestyle Vacations Custom sailing charters for one or two couples, or a small family up to six.

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Yacht Charters

info@jalapenocharters.com ~ 775-742-6976 ~ www.jalapenocharters.com w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Hey! I Knew That

People who think they know everything are a great annoyance to those of us who do.

Isaac Asimov

The latest on sailboat sales?

Analysis of the U.S. sailboat market from the National Marine Manufacturers Association indicates that sales rebounded in 2018 to a four-year high.

Production was up 6.8% to 3,826 sailboats in 2018.

Nautical Trivia Answer (For question on page 26)

Cannon balls used to be stored on the ship in piles on a brass frame that was known as a “monkey.” Cold weather would make the monkey constrict and the cannon balls would come rolling off when it was “cold enough to freeze the balls off a monkey!”

Cruising Outpost Jackette Order yours now at

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Very comfortable. Squash & Wear! 8 color art on the back, and on the front is the Sea Toggery logo. Right arm says “Don’t Dream Your Life” and the Left says “Live Your Dream!”

Sizes S-XXL Add $2 for XXL Reg. $35

Close-Out $28.

38 Latitudes & Attitudes /pg 26-41 editedbyKatie.indd CO Scuttlebutt Jackette ad- 1/2H 2019.indd 1 14

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Wanna See boot?

boot, (yes, it is spelled with a lowercase “b”) which means “boat” in German, is the largest boat show in the world. It has been put on in Düsseldorf, Germany for the past 50 years. It is held at the Messe Center, with over 2.3 MILLION square feet of display space. boot 2019 set a new record, with almost 2,000 exhibitors from 73 countries and displays covering 2,368,000 sq. feet of stand space. Nearly 250,000 water sports fans (boot 2018: 247,000 visitors) came to Düsseldorf from over 100 countries.

We have been lucky enough to visit this show for two years.

Wanna go?

We are working with the folks at boot to bring more of a US presence to the show. If you are interested in visiting boot, which runs from January 18th to the 26th, send an email to: bob@ LatsAtts.com. If there is enough interest we will try to put a group together to see the 2020 show.

Hairy Situation

“I saw a chap with a big bushy beard earlier.”

“Was it a naval beard?”

“No, it was on his chin like everyone else.” w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Join Lats&Atts In Dusseldorff For

boot Jan. 18-20th

The Worlds Largest Boat Show Latitudes & Attitudes, working with the folks at boot have made arrangements for our readers to join us at this unbelievable show. Over 2,000,000 sq, ft. of boats, gear and water related goodies that cruiser’s need to know about, all in one beautiful location..

We have arranged for a group hotel where we will all stay, in the heart of Beautiful Dusseldorf.

We will be there for opening day, and our group will be greeted by a member of thr staff, who will answer questions and help us get the most out of our visit.

Join Bob & Jody & other Lats&Atts readers at this once-in-a-lifetime event.

The show has provided us with a travel agent to help book flights, and have reseved rooms for us as well.

Want to know more?

It’s Easy, just email us we’ll send you all the info!

Jody@Latsatts.com

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Catalina Yachts 50th

Catalina Yachts was founded in 1969 in Hollywood, California by Frank Butler. Catalina Yachts is one of the largest boat manufacturers in the world, with over 60,000 boats manufactured to date. Frank was honored by the marine industry a few years back as the man who created the #1-selling sailboat line in the world. They helped create the cruising lifestyle!

Davis 50th

Davis Instruments is currently celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. It has evolved from a marine accessories company into a major provider of weather instrumentation. In the early years, they offered just thirteen products.

Today, Davis manufactures and sells hundreds of items, all offering unique solutions to everyday problems. Happy Anniversary!

Moorings 50th

Five decades have now passed since Moorings was established

by Charlie and Ginny Cary in the British Virgin Islands. Born from a passion for sailing and a slim fleet of six yachts, Moorings wouldn’t be the trusted yacht charter brand it is today if not for the legacy of its beloved founders and the continued support of its valued guests.

Sailrite’s 50th

Sailrite started back in 1969 after founders Jim and Connie Grant took an interest in building their own sails. Jim, a college professor, had begun selling a correspondence course on sailmaking.

These courses were the beginning of Sailrite; the rest, they say, is history. Today, Sailrite is owned and operated by the second-generation of the Grant family, Matt and Hallie Grant. Together they lead Sailrite’s constantly growing list of crew members, including the third generation of Grants.

Lost & Found?

A sailor eating alphabet soup found the seven C’s.

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32ND

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Lats& Atts Piracy Repor t ACTIVE PIRACY REPORT from the ICC: A Narrative of the Most Recent Attacks April 24, 2019 at 0215 UTC - Lagos Anchorage, Nigeria: Three robbers in a small craft approached and boarded an anchored tanker. Duty AB on routine rounds noticed the robbers near the cargo tank and notified the officer on watch. The alarm was raised, PA announcement made, and the crew mustered. Hearing the alarm and seeing the crew alertness, the robbers jumped overboard along with their hose and escaped in their boat. The incident was reported to a naval patrol boat.

Nothing was reported as stolen.

April 26, 2019 - Puerto la Cruz Anchorage, Venezuela: The duty officer noticed on the CCTV an unauthorized person on the forecastle and raised the alarm. Hearing that the crew was alerted, the robber escaped. A security search of the vessel showed ship’s properties stolen from the forecastle store.

April 21, 2019 at 0900 UTC - 270 nautical miles southeast of Mogadishu, Somalia: A fishing vessel underway was approached by two suspicious small boats. The captain noticed the boats and raised the alarm. Other nearby fishing vessels responded and chased the suspicious boats away.

April 19, 2019 - Buenaventura Channel, Colombia: A boat with eight to ten people onboard approached a container ship under pilotage which they attempted to board via the rigged pilot ladder. Duty lookout noticed the boat and raised the alarm. Crew mustered near the pilot ladder resulting in the boat aborting and moving away.

Welcome Back Latitudes & Attitudes!

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www.betamarinewest.com w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 43 4/30/19 3:51 PM

ANOTHER WAY L :I C C ? uck

s it a

hance or a

hoice

By Tania Aebi

This past February, I agreed to deliver a boat from Georgia to the Abacos in the Bahamas, and immediately regretted the commitment. It was a very wintry winter. Even down that far south, the week before we were supposed to leave was frigid, snowing, raining, miserable. Bleak forecasts showed nothing but strong winds bucking the Gulf Stream currents. The season and prevailing winds were everything cruising guides and conventional wisdom counseled against before this passage. Nevertheless, we booked flights down for a Sunday, prepared to wait for a decent weather window for as long as necessary until we ran out of time. All we needed was a little luck.

Luck. It’s a word that gets used often in the sailing world. And, it’s a slippery one that writes off success or failure as things that are brought by chance rather than through the choices one makes or the actions one takes. I’ve spent years bristling at the word when it has been used to explain why I survived a youthful solo circumnavigation. Was it really just luck, or did my own decisions and actions not have something to do with the outcomes?

Sailors also know superstition, which is all about tempting fate, inviting bad luck if you don’t heed certain rules. Setting sail for a passage on a Friday, for example, is supposed to be a poor idea.

Though not super superstitious, I do think exercising caution by avoiding Friday departures isn’t terribly difficult, which was why we flew down to Georgia on a Sunday. Would doing so actually bring bad luck?

Depends on how the trip goes, of course.

I still tell the story about the time I left the Suez Canal on a Friday, fully aware that the last time I’d made this mistake—figuring if I didn’t, there’d be reason to not leave on Saturday, or Sunday, and this could go on forever—it had gone awry. The first night out on this 18-day-long sail from Tahiti to Samoa, my ear started aching, and it was painful enough the next day that if I had still been ashore, a doctor surely would have been visited. Then, I would have also heard about the low-pressure system lurking to the west and would have waited for a fairer forecast.

44 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 44-45 Tania's Story - editedbyKatie.indd 2

Instead, I had the earache, gobbled up aspirin, used some expired eardrops, and got bounced around by strong headwinds for a couple of days, during which a bottle of bright red and terribly sticky grenadine syrup fell and cracked on the cabin sole, and the two cats I had aboard refused to go out into the cockpit to use their kitty litter.

When the front passed and the trade winds filled back in, I fell and did something to my wrist.

Fortunately, the winds held true and steady for several days and not much sail changing had to happen as it got better. Next, I was on my berth, staring at the chart on my lap, as I often did, as if that would make the miles tick by any faster. With the names and locations of South Pacific islands getting seared into my brain, I scratched my head, also as I often did, and this time, a little bug fell onto the white chart surface and hit the ground running.

Oh no! It couldn’t be! Could I have survived the New York City public school system without ever catching lice, only to find myself infested while stuck on a small boat on the other side of the world?

The promise of loads of laundry and public showers awaiting ashore, with all the shame and secrecy of the stinky medicinal shampoos and nobody to help run that comb through my hair to gather the nits was totally depressing. Finally, the last night before landfall, a rotten egg fell from the food hammock and cracked on my bunk. I decided this had all happened because I left on a Friday. The misery had been totally avoidable, and I vowed it would never happen again.

Soon after this, I met a sailor of the French persuasion who eventually became my husband, father to my sons, and ex-husband—a whole other story. For nearly a year, we sailed the same itinerary, making decisions together about when to head back out to sea from each landfall on our separate boats.

My reluctance to leave on vendredi (French for Friday) was met with derision. Who ever heard of such a silly thing? The Friday superstition is an Anglo thing, not shared by the French. But, get this: French people never say the word “lapin” (French for rabbit) on a boat. Now, that’s really bad luck. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

4/30/19 3:31 PM

In May of 1985, an 18-year-old Tania set sail from Manhattan, New York and became the first American woman and youngest sailor at the time to circumnavigate the globe. Upon her return to Manhattan in November 1987, Tania had visited 23 countries and sailed 27,000 miles. Nowadays, Tania runs charters and delivers boats all over the world when she’s not at home, raising her sons, working on her next book, or battling snow in the winter and weeds in the summer.

The vendredi problem is probably loosely connected to Jesus being crucified on a Friday and a couple of famous ships that were lost at sea or wrecked after leaving on this ill-omened day. It’s just one of those things. And, what’s so difficult about leaving a day earlier, or later, to not take unnecessary chances?

As for rabbits being unlucky, apparently, the devil has been known to disguise himself as one.

Or, maybe it’s because they used to throw rabbits into the holds for tasty stews while underway, and the little pests made themselves cursed and unwelcome by gnawing through lines and other things critical to safe sailing. Regardless, it’s a holdover from some long-ago attachment to the concept of luck. Still, for a Frenchman, abstaining from the use of the word “lapin” is perfectly rational; not wanting to leave on a vendredi was ridiculous.

So, inevitably, the day came when leaving the Suez Canal on a Friday made sense. We’d been in Egypt for long enough, we were ready, the weather looked fine, and it was also the Frenchman’s birthday. This could only bring good luck, right? Mais non.

That night, as the abridged version of the story goes, we got hit by a ship. The damage ended up being repairable and I was fine, but boy was I shaken up. It has been a great tale to tell in the decades since, but at the time, there was nothing fun about it, whatsoever; nor did I feel the least bit lucky.

I came out of it determined to never again leave on a Friday. I was twenty years old. Thirty-two years have passed since, the rest of life happened, the word “rabbit” has been used on boats, I’ve left on other Fridays, and was still w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

pg 44-45 Tania's Story - editedbyKatie.indd 3

alive this past February and anticipating a dreadful passage to the Bahamas.

And, as luck would have it, the weather turned during the night we boarded, opening the perfect window for Monday morning. We hurriedly provisioned and took off into the most glorious conditions of calm sunshine and relative warmth that carried us south along the Florida coast, through two brilliant days and star-filled nights, and across the Gulf Stream to Grand Bahama Bank and the Abacos. For three days, we anchorage hopped in t-shirts down the chain to Marsh Harbor and caught the flight home just as the weather turned back to awful again. That was pure luck.

And if we’re only allotted so much luck for this sort of thing, I am now concerned about what the weather will hold for my next trip, which isn’t, as it so happens, scheduled to begin on a Friday.

Latitudes & Attitudes 45 4/30/19 3:31 PM

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Made in the USA 48 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 48 Keenan Filters.indd 1

W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

5/1/19 10:01 AM

A C r u i s e r ’s P a r a d i s e !

By Russell Goedjen

This was it, we were going to Panama! While cleaning our boat at the courtesy dock in Newport Beach, California, a couple came up to us after she noticed our Hawaiian flag.

We swapped stories about Hawaii and discussed our sailing plans for Mexico and the South Pacific. Then she abruptly interrupted, saying, “I’m from Panama and you have to go.” w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 49 5/1/19 10:04 AM

A Bit About Bocas By Ray Jason

Bocas del Toro, Panama keeps getting better and better as a destination for cruisers.

Those of us already here think of the area as the “Undiscovered Caribbean.”

Geographically, it is a large archipelago, with nine big islands and hundreds of smaller ones. Because of the positions of these islas, an inland sea is formed where one can experience rollicking sailing, but with waves that are only about waist-high.

Scattered throughout the area are pristine reefs, a hundred empty bays just waitin Rene Yapg for an anchor, and hilly terrain to contrast with all of the mangroves. And for a backdrop you have mighty mountains. This is the same chain that stretches all the way from Alaska to Cape Horn.

Wandering around this spectacular terrain are wild parrots, sloths, rainbow-colored frogs, toucans, and surfers. Although that is a joke, the waves are not. Some of the top surfers from around the world drop in regularly.

Onshore, you can find a good selection of basic food, hardware, and pharmacy items. And for less basic (but equally vital) needs, there is an amazing selection of bars and restaurants. The latest additions include a sushi bar, an Argentinian-style steak house, and a tequila specialty bar with a rubberized floor. (Just kidding). My particular favorite is the new floating bar. It is moored within rowing distance of where I am writing this. Of course, I only visited it to research this article.

Besides the plethora (an old, Royal Navy term, I believe) of empty anchorages there are also three nice marinas to choose from. My fave is Bocas Marina, which is adjacent to town. It has a great bar and restaurant, friendly bilingual staff, spectacularly clean showers, floating docks, laundry service, reliable electricity, water, and FREE WI-FI. They also host swap meets on a regular basis as well as potlucks. It is so appealing that many folks have been happily hunkered down here for years.

So, with all of these great features, you can understand how Bocas del Toro has become the proverbial Velcro Port.

It is very tough to pull yourself away from it!

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She told us we would find beautiful remote islands in Panama, places where we could get lost for years. Panama? That seemed interesting, we thought. We hadn’t thought of Panama or heard about the existence of these islands. We quickly learned that our cruising plans were made in sand, meaning our cruising plans are now changed.

The Islas de las Perlas are 35 miles from Panama City and accessible by a ferry, small plane, or private boat. Islas de las Perlas, which consist of over 200 islands, received their name when the Spanish Conquistadors robbed a large number of pearls from the indigenous King Toe. Most of the islands are uninhabited. Cruisers usually spend only a few weeks here before jumping off to the Galapagos or the Marquesas, making a misadventure in my opinion.

We provisioned Xenia before arriving. Provisions are hard to come by, and having water or the ability to make water is crucial and not easily accessible. As we plotted on our charts and built our experience, we found that you must be on your “A game,” prepared to navigate in the tight bays and around hard rocks. We arrived in December during the dry season, which lasts until April, the best time to cruise these grounds.

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5/1/19 10:04 AM

to 18-to-20 feet, so watching your depth is crucial.

But, that lady that told us about this place was right, Panama was easy to fall in love with, and it’s sure easy on the eyes.

Featuring a dynamic ecosystem and marine and bird sanctuary, Isla Contadora is one of the most developed islands in the chain. Around 350 people live here and it’s a favorite local spot. The snorkeling visibility varies during this time of year as the water temperature cools. From June to September the

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humpback whales arrive. Panama is one of the few places that humpback whales migrate to from the north and south poles looking to breed and then birth their calves. Coral Dreams Tours has been on the island for many years and the employess have vast knowledge of these islands for anyone wanting to take their snorkeling, whale watching, or island tours.

Also on the island is a walking tour company.

Flights arrive and depart daily at the small airport. Weekends are mostly busy and you will see

Latitudes & Attitudes 51 5/1/19 10:04 AM

Hurricane Season in Panama (Or rather, the lack of the same!)

By Rene Yapp

around 10 to 14 other boats. During the holidays and New Years Eve there were over 100 yachts and fireworks that lasted well over 30 minutes. It was an incredible sight to see and experience.

Depending on the weather, you can anchor on the south or north side of the island. Going around the island takes approximately 40 minutes by boat.

The homes on the island range from small to elegant and are often available for rent. This is where the wealthy Panamanians have their vacation homes. Once on the island, you have two tiendas, a few lovely restaurants, a bar, and quaint hotels.

The weather systems that produce hurricanes don’t find a welcome in our southern Caribbean waters.

Historically, only one tropical storm ever made it to the shore, with winds of only 30 knots. The Coriolis effect and the protection of the Colombian Mountains keep us wellprotected down here at 9 degrees south. Hurricanes do affect our weather: if there is a storm in the Caribbean, we get beautiful sunny days with a nice breeze from the West.

No hurricane. Then we have our normal rainy season weather: sunny morning, rain from 2 p.m. until 4 p.m., and then sunshine until sunset.

There are a few anchorages that should be chosen with care. Most notable is Portobello, where the occasional storms from the West, normally predicted well in advance, can make life uncomfortable but not untenable.

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This is a great place to stretch your boat legs. If you don’t want to walk, you can rent a golf cart for $75.00 per day. And luckily, dinghy landings are easy.

Two miles away are Isla Chapera and the Mogo Mogo Islands. Isla Chapera is well-known as the site where the Survivor television series was filmed. The beautiful anchorage has great snorkeling and amazing sunsets. In the evening often you will have the anchorage to yourself. From here, your options for island exploration open up to Pedro Gonzales, Isla San Jose, or the largest island of Isla del Rey. Then there are the small cruising islands of Bayoneta, Casaya, or Ampon.

These islands are a shallow-draft vessel’s dream, allowing you to tuck into amazing anchorages that will have you feeling like you’re lost on your own paradise island.

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Latitudes & Attitudes 53 5/1/19 10:04 AM

The beauty of Panama is best explored on a cruising vessel like the author’s of this article. There are great marinas and plenty of beautiful anchorages.

If you are a cruiser with a selfsufficient boat, who likes adventure and being on the hook in remote islands, then I encourage you to visit Las Perlas and get lost. We did and we don’t ever want to leave. The tribe has spoken!

Getting Around in Panama

Aside from being a great place to cruise, the fact that Panama is basically outside the hurricane belt makes it the perfect place for people who want a nice place to cruise during hurricane season in the Caribbean. The people here are friendly, and the coastline and islands are as beautiful as you could find anywhere on this big blue ball we call Home.

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Latitudes & Attitudes 57 4/26/19 3:57 PM

Welcome Back to the BRITISH VIRGIN

ISLANDS The Islands Are Back & They Are Better Than Ever!

By Bob Bitchin, with additional photos from Chuck Delabio, Debbie Kolod, Drew Gober, Joe Jablonowski, Kimber Hamilton, Ty Abston, Wayne Anselmo, and Jody Lipkin

We put on a Share The Sail every year. But, this year’s Share The Sail in the BVI had a secret agenda. We organized it to help bring people back to the BVI to show the world the islands were once again open for business after the horrific hurricanes that smashed them two years ago.

Our group staggered in from all over the world over the period of about four days. While we waited for our fellow cruisers, Jody and I were lucky enough to have our very good friends Tommy and Sharon Brownell cruising the area on their beautiful Hylas 54, Distant Star. Like good friends, they offered us a place to stay as we awaited the day of boarding the boats.

For a couple days we sailed over to Norman Island and acted as if we were leisurely cruisers, all the time putting out fires for the upcoming event.

You may not believe it, but organizing ten boats for seven days can be a fulltime job!

As it happens, Jody’s 60th was on February 1st, and we were in Nanny Cay, so an impromptu party was organized with old friends from the islands and new friends from the Share The Sail. It was held at Peg Leg’s and it was a complete success. About twenty people gathered to help her celebrate the day. It was a beautiful night, with perfect weather, and a lot of good friends!

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On the day we were to board the boats, people gathered at Scrub Island, about a mile off of Tortola. Then the difficult part started. The provisions had all been ordered and were to be aboard and stowed by 3:00 p.m. for our 5:00 p.m. boarding. By 6:00 p.m. that evening no provisions had appeared.

Then, the crew of the Drew Boat noticed a couple of Boston Whalers loaded with boxes of supplies tied to one of the docks. They took a closer look and saw “Bob Bitchin” written on the boxes and, below that, “The Drew Boat,” “The Eric Boat,” etc.

They were our supplies. Only God knows how long they had been sitting there.

Bedlam ensued as we tried to decipher what boxes went to which boats. Once the boxes had been settled, a few small discrepancies popped up, like the full complement of food for the boat that had a family with a young child consisted of potato chips, bread, and beer. Lots of beer.

In all, it turned out that about one-third of the food ordered was not there. Little things were missing, like the 18 gallons of drinking water for the Bob Boat, which had 11 people on board.

The morning of our supposed departure, we waited as the crew of Dream Yacht Charter walked the skippers through the Celebrating Jody’s 60th at operations of the boats.

Peg Leg’s in Nanny Cay Eventually we got through it, as the boats traded supplies so the ones who’d received their full complement of supplies shared with those that did not.

The crews spent the evening in the Scrub Island Resort where the Dream Yacht Base is now located.

It’s a great place to hang, with hot tubs, swimming pools, and great beaches.

In the morning, about half an hour after the briefing, another boat from RiteWay on Tortola showed up, with more of our provisions.

Island time, right?

Night before leaving Scrub Island Marina

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Latitudes & Attitudes 59 4/29/19 2:27 PM

Welcome Back to the Diving on the Indians

Partying at Corsairs on Jost Van Dyke

The voyage was then on. The Share The Sail boats headed to the Baths on Virgin Gorda. The weather was as perfect as it could get, and there were even open moorings! The new system there is you cannot land a dinghy on the beach, but rather have to tie your dinghy to the buoy line and swim 100 yards to shore.

The Baths are one of the most beautiful areas of the BVI. Huge granite boulders lay jumbled on the beach, creating caves and small, private beaches.

The feeling of paradise was quickly lost when we started hearing an alarm go off on the Bob Boat.

The search was on. Now I gotta tell ya, on the new 52-foot Lagoon, there are more little nooks and crannies than on a Thomas’s English muffin. The base on Scrub Island sent out a couple guys who eventually found an overheating solenoid under one of the berths.

After about an hour, people returned to the boats. We decided to motor around to the north and into North Sound.

When the Bob Boat arrived, Tommy Brownell was there waiting for us. He then introduced us to a very interesting guy.

His name is Gumption, and he is an entrepreneur who runs a glass bottom boat. Here’s what was interesting: Richard Branson on Necker Island heard that he’d built this boat and was taking people out on excursions, and then using the money to help fund the school. So Branson loaned him enough money to buy a proper boat. Over the next couple years he ran his glass bottom boat tours, and paid him back in full. Branson was so impressed that he gave him access to Necker Island for his tours. He is the only one authorized to access Necker and the zoo, etc., on the island.

Most of our crew jumped into his tour boat and he took them on a quick tour, showing them turtles and all the sea life in the area. It was most

Relaxing at Monkey Point

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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS kewl. You can look him up on Facebook. His name is Gumption. Great tour!

Soon we had a little Superbowl party to get to. Six additional boats joined our four-boat flotilla, and we had about 90 people for the party. The folks at the Leverick Bay Resort had set up around ten tables on the beach for each boat—and even had “reserved” signs for each boat in our group. To ensure our viewing pleasure, they set up a large screen (a bedsheet between two poles) and a projector for the game.

It seemed they had a connectivity problem, and there was almost a mutiny. But, just as the game started, they got it figured out. The outcome of the game was good for the majority of the cruisers that were there, as most were from the East Coast!

That night was beautiful. After the game, people gathered on their boats, watching the stars, and just enjoying the great weather.

We were loving it. Rumor had it there was a Polar Vortex or something like that back home, and most of the U.S. was packed in snow and ice.

In the morning, most of the boats headed out for our next stop, Anegada. It was a 13-mile sail, with light winds and calm seas.

Of course on the Bob Boat, we had a little adventure. As I’ve always said, the difference between an ordeal and an adventure is attitude. And our “adventure” consisted of hitting the starter button only to find our batteries were dead. This was a little odd, as we had been running the generator and charging a lot in the evening. And of course, this happened the morning before we were to get started. We then found out that on this particular boat, they had removed the charger for some maintenance.

Oops!

Once again we awaited the arrival of our friends from the Dream Yacht Charter base. They found that a cable between the battery and the alternator was cut, and the battery was as dead as a sail-cat on Highway 95. They replaced the battery and once again we were on our way.

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Hank Scmitt from Offshore Passage Opportunities joined the sail

Jeff and Debbie Kolod at the Baths

Latitudes & Attitudes 61 4/29/19 2:27 PM

Welcome Back to the

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

Superbowl Sunday Party at Leverick Bay on Virgin Gorda The ladies holding up the rock at the Baths The sail to Anegada was great. Perfect weather, energy (and youth!), long walks along the shore, which is littered with conch shells. perfect wind, perfectly calm and even seas.

Once in the anchorage on Anegada, You see, when a conch is harvested, you are not supposed to throw the shells people headed to shore, where Jody had The ladies of back into the sea, as it will keep the arranged for transportation to Cow Wreck s/v Jester conchs away. So there are hundreds of Beach on the North Shore. beautiful conch shells lining the beach.

Cow Wreck is one of those places that has made Anegada a “must After a few hours enjoying the peace and serenity of one of the most see” in the BVI. It’s a beautiful beach protected by a reef about a half-mile beautiful beaches in the world, we boarded the open bus back to the out. The waters are clear and calm, and the white sand beach stretches for Anegada Reef, where we had a party arranged for that evening, with Isabella miles without anything to interfere with Stefania and Eric Stone live on stage. the beauty.

The Cow Wreck Bar and Grill serves Isabella and her family are sailing with us on the Bob Boat, while Eric Stone and his friend up some great burgers, lobster fritters, and conch ceviche. The afternoon was spent swimming, Gary Haas were skippering another boat. laying on the beach, and for those with a bit more That night was as beautiful as it could get.

Perfect weather, and the folks at the Anegada Reef

Kayaking in White Bay on Jost Van Dyke

The crew of the Bob Boat pulling into Monkey Point

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Isabella Stefania gives Gumption a shirt before going on a tour off of Virgin Gorda

Surfing the Bubbling Pool on Jost Van Dyke, near Taboo

Hotel had set up tables for the almost 90 people in the anchor by hand. That was some real adult fun, our group. Each table was set for each boat, and right? Most definitely NOT! the food had all been pre-ordered, with free Once up, we pulled my feet out from rum punch for all. under the pile of chain and headed out. We Happy hour started at about learned later that there was a “lock out” 5:30 p.m. with Eric Stone opening switch, that we didn’t know about, and with some great music. Then, at it had been tripped. Aaaaagh!

6:30 p.m., Isabella took over the The winds were pretty good, so stage. They were great! we went to haul up the sails. Another When it came time for dinner oops! It seems that not only was there they joined us at the tables, and a no power to the windlass, there was disc jockey took over. After dinner the also no power to the winches.

Isabella and Eric dancing got hot and heavy, and the It was then decided we’d on Anegada sand dance floor was crowded all night motor back to the base at Scrub long. Everyone was up and the conga line Island, and see what could be done. was long and wavy!

It was there we learned about the lockBeing true cruisers, the party ended out switch! at “Cruiser’s Midnight” (about 10 p.m.) and folks Oh, yeah, did I mention the watermaker also headed back to their boats, some to continue their was inoperable, and our tanks were going dry? It party, and others to get some sleep. seems the toilets used two gallons of fresh water In the morning, the crew of the Bob Boat each time one was flushed. As our boat was a sixheaded over to The Big Bamboo for some snorkeling cabin boat with six heads...well, I think you can and a bite of lunch. Some of the best snorkeling on see where this was heading, right? the island can be found on that area of Anegada.

After less than half an hour, most of the We spent the day enjoying the cruising lifestyle. problems had been fixed (it seems that, if you know That means laying about, reading, swimming, and what the problem is, it’s easy!!) and we were once generally enjoying life. again headed out. The folks at Dream Yachts were In the morning it was time to head for Jost on top of it right away!

Van Dyke for another party. I know, party, party, party.

We motored around to Monkey Point for some What could go wrong? swimming. Monkey Point is one of our favorite spots The answer to that question was answered in the islands. The water is crystal clear, and it is when we hit the windlass button to raise the anchor. great snorkeling.

Oops!

As we left we hoisted the sails, and had a No power to the windlass. After a few minutes great two-hour sail to Jost Van Dyke, sailing right past spent searching once again for the problem, we Sandy Cay, which has to be one of the most beautiful did what most cruisers do. We gave up and hoisted little islands in the world. w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 63 4/29/19 2:27 PM

Welcome Back to the

The party at the Anegada Reef Hotel As we pulled into Great Harbor it was pretty full. So, we found a good place to drop a hook and backed down to end up right next to Distant Star and Avocation, two boats that were part of our flotilla.

A party was planned for the evening at Corsairs which is run by an old friend, Vinnie. Vinnie was actually in Colorado that evening, celebrating his 40th Anniversary of Rocky Mountain Harley-Davidson (his other business), but his girlfriend Lori took charge and made everyone feel right at home!

The Eric Stone band along with Gary Haas set up the sound equipment, and around 5:30 p.m. the music started.

Corsairs is located right on the beach in Jost Van Dyke, and soon people gathered to listen to some great sounds and do what cruisers do.

Isabella Stefania, Nashville’s newest upcoming star, sailed in with us. When Eric would take a break, she’d take over. The music played all evening, and there could not have been a better atmosphere.

Cruisers from all over gathered, and once again the cruising lifestyle was enjoyed to it’s fullest.

Now, I gotta admit I was moving pretty slow the next day, but our crew was up and at it early to visit Foxy’s for souvenirs and to head over to White Bay to visit the world famous Soggy Dollar Bar. Our crew was back aboard to head across the channel to Cane Garden Bay about 2:00 p.m. We had to, as we had another party planned for the following evening at Myett’s in Cane Garden Bay on Tortola.

After arriving in Cane Garden Bay, we were once again kayaking, swimming, and enjoying the perfect BVI weather.

Jody and I went into the new Pusser’s at Myett’s to make sure that everything was set for the Cruiser’s

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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

The men of the Drew Boat toasting the sail

Party that evening. Val and Kareem have been running Myett’s for over 25 years. After the hurricanes they joined forces with our friend Charles Tobias and Pusser’s. Together, they have created a great place for boaters to hang out, building a beautiful bar, right on the beach, with a stage for entertainment.

As our crews started to drift in they put out a large pupu platter loaded with a selection of jerked chicken, jerked pork, chicken wings, and some great fish fingers. Who knew fish had fingers???

At about 5:30 p.m. Eric Stone took the stage and the entertainment started. He would play for awhile, then Isabella Stefania would take the stage.

Everyone was having a great time. We want to thank Lee Bentley, Pusser’s Food and Beverage Manager, for helping arrange this event.

Late in the evening, listening to Eric play the theme song from our old TV show, Latitudes & Attitudes, I got a little nostalgic, and went up on the stage and announced we would be changing the name of the magazine from Cruising Outpost back to the original name we’d started with 20 years earlier, Latitudes & Attitudes.

Not sure if that will happen, but if you look at this issues cover, and Latitudes & Attitudes is more prevalent than usual, that may be the case! Thinkin’ and drinkin’ is not always a good combination, but sometimes...well...we shall see.

But, back to the story.

So, the next day dawned as an almost perfect day (again!). Jody and the crew decided we would go back to Jost Van Dyke, and see if we could get into White Bay, the home of the Soggy Dollar Bar. Fortyfive minutes later (the islands are pretty close together) we entered an almost empty White Bay. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

4/29/19 2:27 PM

Sand dancing at the Anegada Reef Hotel

Party at the new Pusser’s at Myett’s on Cane Garden Bay Now for those of you who have not had the pleasure, White has a couple reefs protecting it, and there’s only enough room for maybe a dozen boats at best. We wiggled our way in, dropped our hook, and the fun began!

White is the home of The Soggy Dollar Bar, which is well named, since when people swim up with their dollars (now $10s and $20s) a little soggy from the swim, they take ‘em with a smile!

We spent about half the day swimming and just plain enjoying the view, and then it was time to start the boogie back towards the charter base on Scrub Island. It was a motor right into the wind. As any cruiser knows, if you get lost, just point her into the wind, because when cruising, the wind is either too light or too strong, but it’s always on the nose!

The facilities at the Scrub Island Base of Dream Yacht Charters are a true resort hotel.

That evening, people cooked up what food they had left from the voyage, and boat-hopped, visiting the other boats from the Share The Sail adventure. The week we’d spent cruising the islands had brought everyone together into one tight-knit family.

Jody and I figured this was about the 20th year we had been doing the Share The Sail Adventures, and we had people on this event that had been on the very first one, and others who had been joined us for as many as four previous events.

This one will go down as one of the best!

Oh yeah, and the British Virgin Islands are back, and as beautiful as ever! They are BVI Strong!

Sunset on Anegada

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Latitudes & Attitudes 65

4/29/19 2:27 PM

46 52 52 Pilothouse

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4/29/19 11:48 AM

What’s Out There?

Cruising Monohull

The Oceanis 46.1 follows the design of a large cruiser: the popular Beneteau OC51.1.

This new model is comfortable, easy to sail, and easy to handle.

The owner’s cabin features an island bed with a shower room and an en-suite head. You’ll find generous headroom inside this forward berth as well as in the two aft guest rooms.

Above deck, she features a large cockpit and deluxe table to accommodate friends and family and double wheels that make sailing a breeze.

There’s a single step down from the cockpit to the swim platform which is equipped with a sturdy swim ladder for easy access to the

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Bene te au Oce anis 46.1

sea. The running rigging is led aft to well-placed winches, allowing the skipper to sail single-handedly. The Harken and B&G gear confirms this boat is built to stand the heavy seas, and to be just as easily handled in light winds.

There are a number of layouts, depending on whether your preference is cruising, racing, or setting sail with the whole family. Shown below is what Lats&Atts considers the best for cruising! However, there are options for up to 5 cabins and a taller mast for racing.

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Ge t all the facts:

www.Beneteau.com

Beneteau O ceanis 46.1 LOA 47’11” LWL 43’5” Draft Shallow/Deep 5’93” / 7’9” Beam 14’9” Displacement 23,356 lbs Power 57 hp (80 hp option) Fuel 53 USG Fresh Water 98 USG Mast Height 66’8” Latitudes & Attitudes 69

4/26/19 10:40 AM

What’s Out There?

Cruising Catamaran

The McConaghy MC50 may be the smallest of the MC Cats, but she still has an impressive strength-to-weight ratio.

The boat features a dual-helm position to offer the best line-of-sight forward making her an ideal choice for those new to multihull cruising.

The wide saloon is a spacious living area with large windows and fully-retractable glass doors to the aft. With an open galley, this Cat is well-suited to socializing and family living.

The attention to detail allows living space to be maximized. These Cats give you strength as well as performance and are available from 50 to 90 feet. Perfect for cruising!

70 Latitudes & Attitudes

w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

McConaghy MC50

Ge t all the facts:

www.McConaghyBoats.com

McConaghy MC50 LOA 50’2” LWL 49’2” Draft Board Up / Down 3’3” / 8’10” Beam 26’2” Sail Area 150m2 Power Two 57-hp Yanmar Fuel 132 USG Fresh Water 158 USG Mast Height 86’ w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

Latitudes & Attitudes 71

What’s Out There?

Power Cruiser

The North Pacific 45’ Pilothouse has a spacious, full-beam salon, raised pilothouse with great visibility, two staterooms, and a fully-covered aft deck.

The bow has a plumb design to increase the amount of useable space in the staterooms and has plenty of storage.

A near walk-around queen in the master makes this a nice master stateroom. There’s alson an en-suite head.

The hull design allows for higher top-end speed and excellent fuel economy. For those looking for a comfortable power cruiser, this could be the answer.

72 Latitudes & Attitudes

pg 72-73 North Pacific 45 - editebyKatie 2

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4/26/19 10:45 AM

North Pacif ic 45

Ge t all the facts:

www.NorthPacificYachts.com

LOA LWL Draft Beam Power Fuel Fresh Water Holding Tank Dry Weight w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

pg 72-73 North Pacific 45 - editebyKatie 3

NORTH P ACIFIC 45

45’10” 41’5” 4’6” 13’8” 355 hp Cummings Diesel 400 USG 300 USG 65 USG 34,000 lbs

Latitudes & Attitudes 73

4/26/19 10:45 AM

pg 74-75 Blue Water Sailing.indd 2

4/29/19 11:22 AM

pg 74-75 Blue Water Sailing.indd 3

4/29/19 11:22 AM

From

Dock Queen Cruising Machine to

Finding and converting a “Dock Queen” from a party boat sitting at the dock, to a cruiser’s dream boat, with a little help!

By: Lea Ann Rock

D

avid and I have been cruising for many years. We began our life afloat on an Island Packet 40, Faith. Year after year we reviewed how things were going. Inevitably, we would decide to cruise her for one more year. The one constant theme in our annual discussion was the ever-present “BUT.” “BUT,” it would be so nice if Faith was larger.

Wouldn’t it be great to have a watermaker? What about a walk around bed? I think a back deck with a swim platform would be super. Do you like the look of an arch? What about solar and wind on the arch?

In the end, we decided we loved our Island Packet, “BUT” wanted a bigger boat.

The boatyards were the toughest part of the search. The boats were usually covered in canvas

76 Latitudes & Attitudes

with a very small entry. You reached the bunny hole only after climbing a ladder extended to some deathdefying height. Inside, you usually found a dark, damp, smelly mess. Note to self: never try to sell a boat in a boatyard. The offering price decreases with each rung of the ladder a buyer has to climb.

There were several boats we wanted to view in the Ft. Lauderdale area. One was an older model in need of updating and one was a newer model, but a “dock queen.”

A day or so after we left Ft. Lauderdale, the “dock queen” went under contract. We continued to think about the older Tayana 48 we had seen. We made a list of all the upgrades needed and presented them to the broker with a verbal offer. The owner was offended and told us to not even think of putting it in w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

writing. Funny thing, the boat eventually sold for the price we offered...but months later.

One day, Scott called about a new listing his company had signed. When the captain was about to hang-up, I asked about Scarlett, the Tayana 48 we lovingly called the “dock queen.� We learned the deal had fallen through and she was back on the market. We made an offer that day on Scarlett, and a commitment to transform her into our perfect cruising boat.

We addressed all the items on the survey and then moved Scarlett to a marina in Ft. Lauderdale.

She, like many boats of her age, had Grunnert 115-volt refrigeration. We did not want to remove this working system, but wanted to enhance our refrigeration with a 12-volt Frigoboat system.

This was the first step in making our boat more of a cruiser. The 12-volt system would be much more transparent at anchor. And anchor is where we wanted this beautiful boat to live.

The custom refrigeration has been brilliant. Our 12-volt refrigerator and 12-volt freezer run with minimal power consumption. The Frigoboat systems were placed in the galley behind the cabinet drawers. The location is innocuous, quiet, and easy to access if necessary.

When running the diesel generator, David turns on

w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

the 115-volt Grunnert system. This freezes the plates and takes the stress off the 12-volt system. If either system fails, then we have a back-up.

After our month in Ft. Lauderdale, we moved Scarlett to Stuart, Florida. Stuart is the home of Mack Sails, and they are an outstanding company.

Colin Mack came to

Latitudes & Attitudes 77

our boat and heard our plans. He was excited by our desire to create an exceptional cruising boat. We talked to Colin about adding a custom arch, wind, solar, new life lines, and a Class B AIS. He was more than able to do all of these items and was ready to leave and create our formal quote. That’s when I entered the picture.

Scarlett had a 64-foot mast with an in-mast furling mainsail. I didn’t like the taller rig and I didn’t like the in-mast furling. I know, many people deal successfully with tall rigs. Many people love in-mast furling. In our case, we always sail with just the two of us. Our only crew is Gypsy, the boat dog.

I needed to feel comfortable with our rig. In an emergency, I might be the person responsible for dropping the main sail quickly or dealing with a man-overboard situation or any other scenario.

A full-batten main could be raised with our electric winch and lowered into a stack pack. There would be no chance of the sail becoming “stuck” in an emergency. Additionally, the full-batten main would actually give us a better sail shape and increase the sail area by 20%.

A slightly shorter rig would allow us to make inshore runs on the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) whenever weather was less than ideal offshore. Also, we would not have to wait at bridges for the tide to go out, thus allowing room to clear the bridge.

I asked Colin about our options with the rig. He said we could cut the mast and then add a track to convert the in-mast to a traditional rig, but this was not an ideal situation. Our boat was outside the size limit for the mast track and our rigging was 13 years old.

78 Latitudes & Attitudes

Colin proposed selling our rig and getting an entirely new rig. At this point, I noticed the captain’s mouth was hanging open. I guess it would have been appropriate to let him know what I was thinking of doing.

Colin got back to us the next day with some super news. He had a customer with a need for an entire rig...mast, boom, sail, and all standing rigging.

The customer would buy our rig! He gave us a quote

w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

on a new rig and the numbers worked for us. We were in the game.

Mack Sails’ employees converged on Scarlett and began to work. The rig was taken off, the lifelines removed and our beautiful boat looked like a floating cigar in her slip. Colin let us know we had crossed the threshold and were now family. This family relationship can be obtained by one and all when you spend as much money as we did on our boat project.

w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

Three months after our purchase of Scarlett, the work was complete and s/v Nomad was born. The last Mack Sail employee stepped off Nomad and we pulled out of the slip headed for the Bahamas. It has been a dream life ever since.

Tayana 48s are semi-custom boats. Each one we have stepped aboard has a different layout. One person we know is very tall, 6’5”. Tayana lowered the floor to give our friend the clearance he needed in the galley area. Some have chairs in the salon and some have multiple sitting areas. The sleeping arrangements can be 2 cabins or 3 cabins.

They all have high-quality woodwork and an outstanding ability to sail. Nomad has a very usable layout. Forward, we have a large v-berth with a lot of storage. The storage is under the v-berth, closet, dresser, and cabinets. David stores most boat spares under the v-berth. This is also an excellent place to store all the bumpers.

Next is a huge head. The separate shower has an over-head window which allows for proper ventilation while on the hook. When at a marina, the front air conditioner handles drying the shower area.

Across from the head is a large closet. The prior owner converted this into a mechanical room.

It is an outstanding location for the watermaker.

We still use it for storage, but it is predominately a mechanical room.

Our salon is one of the largest layouts available in the Tayana 48. We have two large settees, a table that opens for larger groups, and a very usable navigation desk area.

There is access to the engine from the salon, galley, and aft head. The diesel generator is in a

Latitudes & Attitudes 79

sound shield and located in front of the Yanmar 88 turbo. Having great access makes life much happier for the captain.

The long galley has always been my dream. I spent years on my Island Packet 40 cooking in very small quarters. Now, I finally have all the kitchen room I could ever need. I love my Force 10 propane stove and my electric microwave.

The separate refrigerator and freezer are large and easy to load and unload.

The aft state-room has two settees, a walk-around queen bed, and plenty of storage in dressers, cabinets and closets.

Attached to this beautiful room is the large aft head.

Outside, I love the new lifelines. Mack made them thicker and out of 1/4” stainless steel. I have never been a fan of coated lifelines. I want to see a problem and not find out the hard way. We had a friend fall off his sailboat due to corrosion which was hidden by the coated lifelines. He grabbed his lifeline and boom...he was in the water. Luckily, he only got wet and was quickly back on his boat.

Our aft deck is very large. It makes moving provisions from the dinghy to boat super easy. The

80 Latitudes & Attitudes

swim platform is nice for boarding from the dinghy, kayak, or after a swim.

Our outside control center is the custom stainless steel arch. It houses our wind generator, solar panel, and AIS antenna. It’s the hub of the boat. Our arch has retractable davit arms which extend past the swim platform. This makes deploying the dinghy very easy. It also allows for the dinghy to ride very close and snug to the back of the boat during crossings.

Each night at anchor, the captain raises the dinghy and engine.

Each morning, the dinghy is launched for the daily activities.

The entire process takes less than three minutes and ensures the security of the dinghy and motor during the evening hours.

Many have asked about the new rig. I would do it again without question. When we are offshore and the weather turns ugly, we can enter at the closest inlet. We don’t have to worry about bridges with our 62-foot mast height. We have the added advantage of being able to travel on the ICW when the weather is not good for offshore sailing. Many boats of our size cannot travel the ICW due to bridge clearance issues. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

The really interesting part of our new rig is the full-batten main. Our main is larger than the mainsail that was in the in-mast system. We get better shape and a better sailing ability. David has been very excited with the new rig and our sailing performance. He has even shared our sail performance data with the Tayana 48 designer, Robert Perry.

We added a spinnaker, named Barney, for our light air days. The goal for Nomad is to keep her moving with the wind instead of the diesel. There is no 5-knot bylaw on Nomad.

We keep sailing as long as there is a breath of wind. When all the wind dies, it sure is nice to have the large 88-horsepower Yanmar turbo to continue the journey. The captain has the Max Prop pitched in a manner that maximizes power to fuel consumption.

Yes, sailboaters are always watching the pennies.

We created our dream boat with Nomad. She is no longer a dock queen needing a long yellow cord

or a diesel generator to exist. She rides her spade anchor and chain for months at a time. Our longest time out of a slip is nine months. She loves to sail and she loves to see exotic places.

So, the next time you are looking at boats remember that a dock queen can become a lean, mean, cruising machine. It takes time and well... money. The amount of money will depend on how much of a dock queen you are looking to purchase.

Nomad was about 70% ready for cruising. The prior owner had installed the watermaker, the diesel generator, etc. We just continued the work.

The wonderful thing about having your dream cruising boat is there are no more “BUT” or “if only” conversations. We love Nomad and wouldn’t change anything.

Nomad Tayana 48 Designed by Robert Perry LOA 48’ 2” Beam 14’ 6” Draft 6’ Mast Air Draft 62.5’ Displacement 35,000 pounds Fuel capacity 120 gallons Water capacity 235 gallons Holding capacity 30 gallons w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

Latitudes & Attitudes 81

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pg 82-83 Sub & Back Issue Re-do.indd 3

Latitudes & Attitudes 83 4/25/19 12:31 PM

By Chris, Key Largo sunset at Upper Keys Sailing Club

84 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 2

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4/25/19 11:35 AM

Underway!

Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Underway section, folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Underway@LatsAtts.com.

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pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 3

Latitudes & Attitudes 85 4/25/19 11:35 AM

By June Sage, sailing MaliaLynn, a Rafiki 37 designed by Stan Huntingford, on San Francisco Bay

A sunset sail on Sweet Liberty, off the Old Naples, Florida pier, waiting for fireworks. Tess, Suzy and Tbo in their 4th of July tanks

By Joe Fema of s/v Wildevaart, St Vincent

Mark and Bridget Cosans in Toronto, Canada

86 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 4

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4/25/19 11:35 AM

By Greg Sage, Pacific North West

By Robert Holden, S/V Tenacity in Graciosa in the Canary Islands

By Kim Aaboe, working in the Arctic, sailing in the Caribbean, s/v Gaia II, Arctic Bay, Nunavut, Canada

By Stephan Barry, Morgan City

Half of all Americans live within 50 miles of their birthplace

By John Butler, San Diego, CA

Steven Meckstroth in Virgin Gorda’s North Sound before the hurricanes W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 5

Latitudes & Attitudes 87 4/25/19 11:35 AM

Pirates Jody, Jack Sparrow, and Anna at Buccaneer Days on Catalina Island

The approach of Partly Cloudy, Mark DeCorte’s Irwin 27 on the Banana River

By Russell Breed, of the Westpoint Regatta on San Francisco Bay

Reality through SB Bridge

By Dave Stahnka, New Zealand Bay of Islands

By Denny Webb, San Francisco

88 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 6

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4/25/19 11:35 AM

By Erica, sunrise at the bottom end of Fraser Island, Queensland, Australia

By Dania Billman, Russian River, Kenai Fjords, Alaska

By Terry Billingsby, a gusty March day on a Catalina 30 on Watauga Lake in Butler, TN for Sarah Wilhoit, Terry Billingsby, Patty Bolton, Laura Rowe, and Drew Billingsby W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 7

Latitudes & Attitudes 89 4/25/19 11:35 AM

By Terry Hogan, s/v Common Sense in Gibraltar

What do bulletproof vests, ďŹ re escapes, windshield wipers, and laser printers all have in common? A. All were invented by women.

Taken of Carmen Rogner on board s/v Moana Iti, Point Opoa, Raiatea, French Polynesia

By Brad Chandler, of the schooner Roseway in St.Croix, U.S .Virgin Islands

By Ken Wolfel, s/v Sunshine anchored in front of the Soggy Dollar Bar in White Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

90 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 8

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4/25/19 11:35 AM

What do bulletproof vests, ďŹ re escapes, windshield wipers, and laser printers all have in common? A. All were invented by women.

By Jerry, Nancy in gally looking out on 30-foot seas and 40-knot winds in Chesapeake Bay while en-route to Bermuda during Hurricane Lenny

By Brian Stork of his boat companion, Moses sailing in Maine

By Kim Aaboe, working in the Arctic, sailing in the Caribbean, s/v Gaia II, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Paul and Becky in paradise on Suverov Island!

Tenacity in the middle of the Atlantic

By Doris Neubauer, Tuhua, New Zealand

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pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 9

Latitudes & Attitudes 91 4/25/19 11:35 AM

Anna and Tony Baker with friends on Compass Cay, Exumas

It’s “sun’s out, guns out” for four-year-old Christopher Stokes and his too-big sailor’s gloves.

BVI sailing trip on s/v Ish, a new Lagoon 42.

Wally Hammons sailing his Hunter 31, The Doghouse off Redondo Beach, CA

92 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 10

By Hans Otto Johansen, of his “crew” sailing the world

By Lucy, Cam and Chuck on the Inner Hebrides, Scotland

By Doug Laurie, WINDFALL, a 1981 Gulfstar Sailmaster 39, acting as Cape Lookout

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4/25/19 11:35 AM

By Melanie Farmer, of Alberg 37 Promise in the Dry Tortugas

Alexander Riabokris taking a beach walk in Barbuda

Brian Bills at the wheel

By David Watson, looking toward Oakland, CA from San Francisco Bay on January 6th, 2014

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pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 11

Latitudes & Attitudes 93 4/25/19 11:35 AM

By Alexander Riabokris, in Eluthera, Bahamas enjoying the view and a cold drink on a hot day

You know you’re a sailor when you have to dress up to go to Wal-Mart.

By Carolyn, Rod, Dutch, Joe, and Felix underway in BVI

By Jessica, crewing in Maine

Travis sailing off San Pedro, CA

By Carol Thompson, sunrise while leaving the Eastern Gap of the Toronto Islands on Lake Ontario in Ontario, Canada

94 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 84-95 Underway - editedbyKatie.indd 12

From Craig and Mary Strautin, Galileo anchored in Oriental, NC

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4/25/19 11:35 AM

Kailei Eustis in Burlington, Vermont watching Grace Potter and Jackson Brown sing at the Grand Pointe North Music Festival

By Ian Davies, Arki Harbour, Greece

By Glenn Smedstad, Linn Victoria Smedstad caught a fish taken in the Atlantic en route to Caribbean

Jeff, Marie, and Abby aboard Ppalu in the Caribbean

By Len, weather on the way in Morton Bay of Queensland, Australia

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Latitudes & Attitudes 95 4/25/19 11:35 AM

96 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 96-101 Preparing for Passage - editedbyKatie.indd 2

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5/1/19 10:07 AM

Preparing for Passage

Things we have learned along the way

By Suzy Carmody

Preparing for an ocean passage can be quite daunting— even the most experienced sailor never gets complacent about the complexity and importance of the task. Safety, sustenance, navigation, and weather all require careful planning starting several weeks in advance. Over the last ten or more years, Neil and I have made six ocean passages as well as numerous extended cruises aboard Distant Drummer, our Liberty 458 sloop. We have crossed the Pacific from New Zealand to Alaska via Hawaii and French Polynesia and have crisscrossed the Tasman Sea three times. I thought it might be w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 97 5/1/19 10:07 AM

Bimini Mounted Solar Packages With Built-In Canvas Mounts !

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www.hamiltonferris.com 98 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 96-101 Preparing for Passage - editedbyKatie.indd 4

interesting to share some of the considerations and preparations that we go through prior to setting out on an ocean voyage.

Long-Lead Items In writing this article I assume that the vessel in question is in good order, regularly maintained, and ready to go sailing. It is worth checking everything over a couple of months before the planned departure date and starting a checklist sooner rather than later. Some of the issues which come up may be “long-lead” items and can take weeks to get sorted out. Some things that are easily overlooked include: checking that the sails, rigging, halyards, and sheets are in sound condition; making sure that the certifications for the EPRIB and other safety equipment are up to date; checking that the First Aid kit and grab bag are complete; testing that the radios and communications (sat phone and Sailmail in our case) are working; and ensuring that the genset and watermaker are operational.

Other items not related to the boat—but require the application of a little grey matter ahead of time— include monitoring the weather, navigation and route planning, confirming the Customs and Immigration requirements at the destination, and checking radio nets and schedules, if you use them. I flag these items here but I shan’t go into any further details in this article.

Above Decks When preparing the above deck areas for an ocean passage there are two important aspects that we bear in mind: the first is to get w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

5/1/19 10:07 AM

the center of gravity of the boat as low as possible. Anything that is not essential on deck is stowed aft or below decks. The decks are cleared of all jerry cans, bicycles, surf boards, and other toys. These, along with a myriad of other miscellanea, are packed onto the forward bunk and tied down. We use a halyard to maneuver our 40kilogram anchor back to the aft deck to allow the boat to cut cleaner into heavy seas and at the same time taking some of the weight from the bow, and then tie it down good and tight.

The second (and probably more important) aspect is being set up for rough weather. We rig the storm sail on a second track on the mast so it is ready in case it’s needed, and then we lash it securely beside the mast. When waves come over the deck gear moves around and can be washed overboard. We make sure anything left on deck is well fastened down and tied with a couple of extra hitches, for luck! We rig the jack lines along the deck and replace our six dorades with their screw-in covers to help clear the deck and prevent possible leaks below.

Engine Although we try to minimize our engine use during a passage, we don’t want to be stuck without the donk (“engine” in the US) when we really need it. In addition to the usual maintenance routines, such as changing the oil and replacing the oil and fuel filters, we make a thorough inspection of the all the engine bits, including checking all cooling, fuel, and hydraulic hoses and clamps and running a spanner over the bolts. We make sure we have plenty of consumables such as spare belts, fuel filters, w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

pg 96-101 Preparing for Passage - editedbyKatie.indd 5

Latitudes & Attitudes 99 5/1/19 10:07 AM

and raw water pump impellers, as well as a complete refill of engine and transmission oil, hydraulic fluid, and coolant. Other engine spares carried depend upon the engines quirks and foibles and could range from spare pumps to starter motors (we’ve used both!).

Fuel and Water We carry as much diesel as possible as it’s handy stuff to have on board. You can use it to motor out of a high after days of calm or on arrival to tie up trouble-free in a marina. When the tanks are full they carry 600 liters of diesel, and we have an extra 120 liters in jerry cans which we stash below the salon table. We carry enough petrol (“gas” in the US) to run the genset and a bit extra to get the outboard going.

100 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 96-101 Preparing for Passage - editedbyKatie.indd 6

We also make sure that all the propane tanks are full—got to keep those stomachs happy!

It’s pretty tricky to figure out how much water is used on a boat per person per day. Every boat is different, but with our galley usage and the occasional shower we use about 200 liters per week.

We carry 800 liters of fresh water and our watermaker trickles out 20 liters per hour. Just before we leave we top up three of the tanks from the most reliable water source available (not always easy to find in French Polynesia!). We dedicate the fourth tank to chlorine-free water from the watermaker. We use it for freshwater flushes every few days, but otherwise it adds another 200 liters of potable water for when we need it.

Below Decks Below deck we try to provide a comfortable place to relax, eat, and sleep without things rattling around, sliding about, or falling and hitting us on the head. Midocean tacks often last for several days, so getting used to the motion of the boat is not too bad.

The floor, bunks, and bench tops are all sloping, so objects soon find new homes. Running with the swell in the aft quarter is much harder to live with as the dip switches every ten seconds and everything crashes to and fro.

Before leaving, we tidy up and make sure all loose objects are stowed. However, hidden away in cupboards and drawers, are hundreds of objects that will still move around with the motion of the boat. We do everything we can to minimize the noise; it only

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5/1/19 10:07 AM

takes one battery rolling around or two jars clinking together to ruin your sleep between night shifts. We line cupboards with anti-slip mats, layer dusters between the pans and plates to stop rattles, and stuff towels in lockers to prevent things rolling about. In a big swell or very rough sea, even stowed objects may start to fly around.

So, to make sure everything stays in its place, we hook nets across bookcases and open shelves and put straps across drawers to prevent them from sliding out. We screw down the floor panels where the batteries and various other very heavy objects are stowed—we don’t want them falling on us if the boat rolled!

Other last minute below deck jobs include topping up the house and cranking batteries; charging the GPS, radios, and torches; and closing all the sea-cocks that are not in use.

Provisioning On passage, warm and comforting snacks during a night watch or tasty and satisfying food during the day provide a distraction to the sometimes monotonous task of sailing the boat. When planning food for a voyage there are a couple of things I always bear in mind. Firstly, food preparation in a rolling boat can be quite hazardous, particularly if the seas are rough: cans fall out of cupboards, food flies off bench tops, and knives drop to the floor risking toe amputation. I try to reduce the amount of food preparation that I need to do to a minimum. Vegetables and meat are diced then frozen, sauces are cooked and frozen, all ready for use in portion-sized bags.

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Secondly, calculating for provisioning is obviously based upon the number of people on board and the duration of the passage. However, it’s a good idea to add an extra five-to-ten days to the most conservative estimate of the voyage to allow for the unexpected. If the passage is planned for two weeks I’ll plan for three.

On longer passages, fresh produce is unlikely to last the length of the voyage. Fruit and vegetables will stay fresh for the first week; pumpkins, cabbages, and root veggies will last longer, but are difficult to peel and chop on a moving boat. In the last week or two I rely on frozen vegetables, but I also stock up on tinned in case we have a failure in the power supply. Eggs and milk will usually last for a good two weeks, then it’s UHT (ultra-high temperature processed) or dried milk. I prefer dried milk as its lighter and takes up less space.

Lastly, don’t forget to stock up on the non-consumable items.

It’s amazing how much toilet paper and kitchen roll we get through as well as batteries of various sizes for the autopilot remote, torches, GPS, and various other gadgets.

This list is not exhaustive, but I hope this doesn’t sound too off-putting! Everyone has different preferences and priorities and each boat has its particular quirks. The first passage is very much the hardest to prepare for, but once you have your systems and routines in place, it is just a matter of fine-tuning them for the coming passages after that. Passage sailing can be challenging, but it is incredibly rewarding. Being so remote from the crazy, consumption driven, social media powered world is worth all the effort!

Latitudes & Attitudes 101 5/1/19 10:07 AM

Tell Your Wives I’m

By Erin Carey

Some of my earliest memories are of accompanying my father to the lake in the town in which I grew up. It was an inland lake, no bigger than a couple of football fields, brown in color, and not particularly scenic. This lake did not entice me to pursue a life of sailing. There was nothing glamorous or exotic about dinghy racing, as far as I was concerned.

I suffered a nearbroken nose from the boom one faithful Saturday afternoon, an afternoon when I would have rather been at the mall, shopping with my friends. I remember tagging along with my Dad to learn to sail lessons, my dad the teacher and I the puppet, demonstrating capsizing and tacking, white zinc

102 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 102-105 I'm Not A Sailor Girl - editedbyKatie.indd 2

pasted across the bridge of my nose. I was more interested in the boys at the club than I was the sailing, but I dared not tell my father that.

“Sailor girl” was the name the other school kids would call me. Unfortunately, it was said as an insult, which made me even less enthusiastic about heading to the lake each week.

In hindsight, the name was far from insulting, but it’s funny as a kid what you deem to be upsetting; if only I’d had the confidence to embrace it. But, as a 13-year-old girl, sailing was the last thing I wanted to be doing with my weekends.

I liked shopping and makeup, dancing and fashion. Eventually, w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

5/1/19 10:09 AM

Not a Sailor Girl!

Dad stopped inviting me or insisting I come, and I breathed a sigh of relief that my weekends spent sailing were behind me.

Life went on and afternoons on the lake became a distant memory. I grew into a young woman and met my future husband Dave when I was 19 years old. I had a successful career in the public service and Dave and I moved to Adelaide, where we had three boys.

Life was great. We worked hard, had a beautiful house, and traveled often.

We drove nice cars; the kids went to private school.

However, as the years passed, we couldn’t help but feel we didn’t quite have the right balance—after all, we only saw w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

pg 102-105 I'm Not A Sailor Girl - editedbyKatie.indd 3

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each other for a few hours each day. Surely this wasn’t how things were meant to be?

It was a regular Tuesday evening when we finally fell into the couch after a long day’s work.

Mindlessly scrolling through Netflix, Dave came across a documentary that he thought sounded interesting.

I paid little attention knowing I would no doubt be asleep within minutes.

Ninety minutes later, the credits rolling in the background, our eyes were wide, our mouths even more so. We eventually pulled our focus away from the TV to look at one another, aware that we were both thinking the exact same thing.

It was a crazy idea. The most insane idea we’d ever had,

Latitudes & Attitudes 103 5/1/19 10:09 AM

104 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 102-105 I'm Not A Sailor Girl - editedbyKatie.indd 4

and not by a small amount. It was so crazy, in fact, we were embarrassed to say it out loud. After all, we weren’t sailors, we’d never even owned a boat—what made us think we could sail around at least part of the world? I wasn’t sporty or particularly fit, I didn’t enjoy camping or roughing it, and I hated being uncomfortable. I wasn’t a fan of sand on my skin; going to the beach often left me itchy and sunburnt.

Swimming was not my forte, not to mention the fact that I didn’t even like sailing as a youngster. Who was I kidding?

What I did love was traveling. And the idea of sailing from country to country appealed to me. I also enjoyed a challenge, and this certainly fit the bill. Dave was extremely handy and switched on, an aircraft technician by trade, so I had no doubt he could handle the boat side of things. But me, what could I bring to the table?

Two years passed by in a flash, and we worked towards our goal tirelessly. We bought a yacht sightunseen in the Caribbean, and left early one summer morning to fly to the other side of the world to begin our new life. I had numerous moments of fear and doubting in those two years, worried that I wouldn’t enjoy living on a boat. After all, I wore high heels and a face full of makeup to work each day. I colored my hair every six weeks, and I liked designer handbags. Would I really enjoy the boat life?

As luck would have it, I needn’t have worried.

Oh, what a life it was. The freedom was addictive; being the master of our own time, being able to do what we wanted, when we wanted to, was exhilarating.

Our family bond grew as we discovered new lands, ourselves, and each other.

I found a love for writing and used our tight budget and lack of funds as motivation to push myself into my new career. I was challenged and inspired like never before. We were surrounded by our tribe; people

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we would meet for an hour would feel like lifelong friends. Things that once used to matter to me no longer seemed important, and I enjoyed worrying less about what others thought. I embraced the natural look and didn’t miss the corporate world one bit. My husband found that boat life suited him perfectly and the kids thrived. A two-year sabbatical turned into us selling the house and cruising indefinitely, unable to return to the life we once lived.

So, to all the women reading this article, or to the men whose wives are worried they’re not cut out for sailing, take it from me. I too didn’t feel sailing was for me. I disliked it as a kid and, until that fateful night when we watched Laura Decker’s documentary, I had no desire to sail as an adult. I’m still not a fantastic sailor, but I’m learning every day.

Of course, there are things I miss out here, like hot showers and owning a car, but when I’m helming the boat in open waters with the spray in my face and the breeze in my hair, I can tell you this: I absolutely love living on the water! Sailing is only 10% of this lifestyle; 90% is exploring and meeting new people, discovering different ways of life, and discovering yourself. Take it from me, you don’t have to be a “sailor girl” to love sailing!

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Latitudes & Attitudes 105 5/1/19 10:09 AM

Life Aboard Sailors Home

On a recent trip to Antigua in the Caribbean Islands, we met a captain of a cruise ship, Jan G. Rautawaara and learned his home was aboard a completely different boat.

He showed us photos and talked about all he had done to make her his home. His face lit up when he spoke of her and we knew that he had a liveaboard home that he loved, so of course, we asked him for his story.

Jan grew upon the archipelago of Finland right next to a coastal shipping fairway. He said that this surrounding influenced the rest of his life and when he was ten years old he wanted to become a Captain and to have his own little ship. In

106 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 106-109 Life aboard.indd 2

the coming years he moved ahead on his career at sea and finally in 1999 he purchased one of the very same coastal cargo ships familiar from his childhood years. The 47-meter long Unterelbe was built 1939 in Hamburg and could carry 420 tons of cargo.

Originally named as Danzig she was immediately after delivery taken over from her owner by the German Kriegsmarine to carry torpedoes for the U-boat bases in Germany. After the war she was returned to her owner and traded cargoes under the German flag with various names.

She was sold to Finland in 1988 and continued to trade in the Finnish coastal waters. In fact, Jan also worked onboard her as w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

5/2/19 3:08 PM

Editor Robin Stout Aboard Mermaid

䐀漀攀猀 夀伀唀刀 䄀渀椀琀ⴀ䘀漀甀氀椀渀最 䰀愀猀琀

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Deckhand at that time not realizing that one day he would actually own her! When he bought her he gave back the name she had the longest, the Unterelbe, being the name of a river in northern Germany.

A complete refurbishment was done in the following years in order to make the ship a comfortable home and to keep her trading cargo in the coast during the summer months. Basically every inch of the ship was re-done. Despite being an old classic cargo ship the interior was no longer original. Also being in a bad condition it was not worth preserving either. All interior materials had to be renewed and new insulation

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pg 106-109 Life aboard.indd 3

眀眀眀⸀挀漀瀀瀀攀爀挀漀愀琀甀猀愀⸀挀漀洀 椀渀昀漀䀀挀漀瀀瀀攀爀挀漀愀琀甀猀愀⸀挀漀洀 ㌀㈀㄀ⴀ㔀㄀㐀ⴀ㤀㄀㤀㜀

Latitudes & Attitudes 107 5/2/19 3:08 PM

It Is Never Good to Throw Anything into the Wind

By Gregory A. Larsen

It was the summer of 1987. It was my wife and I’s first time cruising into Canada, with Nanaimo being our northernmost destination. Additionally, it would be the first cruise on our newly acquired and refurbished Cal 25.

We acquired our Cal 25, Wind Witch II, knowing it had sat neglected for many years. Therefore, it needed a ton of work. Most of the weekends during the winter and spring of 1987 were spent working on the boat leading up to prepare for our summer cruise. I worked on it so much that I hadn’t sailed the boat hardly at all prior to leaving for our trip to Nanaimo.

We left Tacoma, Washington on Thursday night right after work.

On our first night we motored to Eagle Harbor and spent the night tied up at our yacht club’s outstation. The next day we motored up the inside of Whidbey Island, through the

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Snohomish Slew and then spent the night at Capa Santa’s marina in Anacortes. We continued north the next day, mostly motoring due to lack of wind. I was really hoping to do more sailing. Eventually we reached Canada, and cleared customs at Bedwell Harbor. Finally we got a light breeze and lazily sailed through the Gulf Islands. We arrived at Silva Bay late in the afternoon. The anchorage was full of boats swinging on their hooks therefore we had no choice but to tie up to the dock in Silva Bay. In those days, it cost $35 for a 25-foot boat to tie to the dock.

That was a lot of money back then for our little boat, but there was a perk. They gave us $35 in script money to use at the restaurant and/or store. Since we had already eaten dinner in the restaurant prior to getting the script money, we decided to use the script money to buy stuff in the marina’s small store. We bought w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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From $175/night!

LEARN TO SAIL! a package of bacon to go with the eggs we already had and a few other odds and ends. With the last of our script money, I bought a half-gallon of vanilla ice cream. We went back to the boat and had a big bowl of ice cream, topped with the blackberries we had picked next to the resort. Keep in mind, we had to eat all the ice cream since we only had an ice box. After gorging on ice cream, we both retired for the evening. It didn’t take long to go to sleep with the help of the gentle rocking of the boat.

The next morning when we woke up, I cooked a big breakfast of greasy bacon and eggs.

This was the day we were supposed to meet my parents in Nanaimo. It was a sunny, cloudless, windy day. The wind was building from the north.

We had two choices for how to get to Nanaimo: we could head through Dodd Narrows or sail into the stiff northerly up to Nanaimo via the Straits of Georgia. The slack tide for Dodd Narrows wasn’t going to be until late in the afternoon. We decided we would get to Nanaimo sooner if we sailed there via the Straits of Georgia. This decision was also influenced by the fact that I had yet to sail our Cal 25 in anything but a light breeze. The wife listened to my reasoning and said, “Okay.”

I’m sure she did not realize what was in store for us sailing into the stiff northerly. For that matter, I wasn’t prepared for what was to happen either.

The wind was brisk, and had been blowing all morning, well before the sun came up. This led to some nice big swells rolling down the straits.

These swells were rolling right into the northern w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

pg 110-127 L&A Lifestyles - editedbyKatie.indd 3

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As soon as I threw the green, smelly, disgusting slime overboard it was picked up by the wind and quickly blown right back into my face entrance into Silva Bay. We motored into the swell at full throttle with our little eight-horsepower Evinrude outboard. The bow was diving under from the waves as each roller raced through the narrow cut that connects Silva Bay to the Straits of Georgia. With the waves threatening to get us wet, my wife and I put on our foul-weather gear. You could tell it was going to be a rough, windy, wet ride up the strait to Nanaimo. We slowly made our way into the straits as we motored against the swells.

Once outside the bay and in the straits with lots of leeward room, we raised the sails and headed across the straits on port tack, right into the strong northerly winds.

Our little boat sailed beautifully into the wind and waves. Every so often a really big wave would roll by, causing the bow to dive under the wave as it rolled under the boat. As the bow of Wind Witch II plunged into the wave a gush of green water would roll down our flush deck. The water would race along the deck and then cascade off the back edge of our cabin top, where it would dump the load of water into the cockpit. Additionally, when the wave slapped the hull it would send a plume of green water up into the air and then the wind would blow it right into our smiling faces.

I was in heaven, enjoying a great heavyair sail on our Cal 25. I was rocking and rolling to the rhythm of each wave. I was one with the boat, even though the boat felt like a bucking bronco. I was really enjoying my first big, windy sail on our new little boat. My wife, on the other hand, started turning as green as the water. I told her to go below and lay down on the cabin floor. This would be the place with the least amount of movement. I suppose it was understandable that my wife was getting seasick. It wasn’t just the greasy breakfast she had before leaving, or the rough conditions, but she was also five months pregnant with our first child.

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It didn’t take long for my wife to feel sick to her stomach. She asked me for a bucket, which I got out of the cockpit locker and threw down to her. She immediately got sick into our bright red bucket. After emptying her bacon-and-egg breakfast into the bucket, she handed it to me.

Here I was, sitting on the weather rail with a bucket of puke in my hands. Just the smell alone was making me nauseous.

I decided to throw the slimy upchuck overboard. I was on port tack heading out into the strait, steering with my right hand and holding the puke bucket in my left, contemplating where to toss the smelly bucket’s contents, while making sure I didn’t fall off the boat. Clearly if I tossed it to the low side it would probably land in the cockpit somewhere. Plus, I might lose my balance and fall to the low side or possibly overboard. I decided to lean over the high side and throw the contents overboard. Good plan, right?

No!!! As soon as I threw the green, smelly, disgusting slime overboard it was picked up by the wind and quickly blown right back into my face and upper chest. This caused me to gag. I almost threw up myself right there. Luckily, this is the closest I’ve ever come to getting seasick.

The next few waves that slammed into the boat eventually flushed the disgusting mess off my face and rain gear. This day taught me a valuable lesson. It is never good to throw anything into the wind.

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Latitudes & Attitudes 113 5/1/19 4:24 PM

Just Do It

By Douglas Weibel

Health clubs are packed in January, but it is limited storage and longer times between shopping pretty well known that New Year’s resolutions fall trips when on board can present a bit of a challenge, by the wayside quickly and only produce lasting but there are a lot of good resources to help you lifestyle changes for a small minority. When you talk provision well, such as theboatgalley.com.

Meeting my exercise goals on board, on the with someone who has made a significant lifestyle change, it is often due to a serious health issue; I other hand, required some education, a little bit of found myself unlucky enough to be included in that equipment, and the development of new strategies group this past year. But whatever your reasons, that could be used on a boat. In general, sailors seem to be a fit bunch. Sailing and however big or small your is, after all, an active activity lifestyle changes are, there are Making time for exercise and there are plenty of other things everyone can do to live a healthier, and I’d argue a boils down to the Nike physical activities associated with a cruising lifestyle like the “happier in the long run,” life. tag line “Just Do It!” various forms of swimming My wife and I spend half and paddling many of us enjoy. our time cruising on our Tartan But I have three key exercise 4100, Meri, and half our time at our home in Colorado. This dual lifestyle really components that were just not being satisfied by highlighted some of the differences in making cruising activities.

The first of these three was strength training. lifestyle changes when living on a boat (temporarily Strength training provides benefits to us all. Who or permanently) versus living on land.

In my case, I made some substantial changes wants words like “soft,” “overweight,” or “frail” to to my diet and exercise habits. I didn’t find too much apply to them as they age, or worse to apply now? difference in feeding my new eating habits on board You don’t need to do a lot of strength training, but versus on land. As I do eat a lot of fresh produce, the you do need a small amount of correct and effective

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training. Since bad form can easily lead to injury, it is important to do appropriate strength training exercises in the correct manner. A session or two with a personal trainer can help you learn how to maximize your workout safely if you are new to this form of exercise. When out cruising you generally don’t have the opportunity to just stop by the gym, so you won’t have access to a set of free weights or weight machines, unless you are in the super-yacht crowd.

However, you can design good workouts with bodyweight exercises, resistance bands, and suspension straps. Resistance bands are convenient on boats.

While I initially didn’t think I could get a good workout using resistance bands, a session with my personal trainer, Brian, taught me otherwise. If you do visit a personal trainer, let them know about your intention of working out aboard your boat so that your sessions can be tailored in this direction.

I always incorporate a number of body weight exercises, like push-ups, pull-ups, and tricep dips, when working out on board. You will find good places for these on cockpit seats or by taking advantage of running rigging. If you are intimidated by some of these exercises, know that there are easy modifications.

For example you can rest on your knees instead of on your feet for a push-up or do a pull-up in a pike position with your feet resting on something in front of you. Resistance band sets that include three to

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five bands with handles and quick connections are inexpensive and take less storage space than a sweatshirt. Resistance band exercises that use your feet as an attachment point for the band, like bicep curls, upright rows, and shoulder presses, all work well on board. The mast and boom provide a sturdy place to wrap a resistance band around for exercises like chest flies, lat pull-downs, and tricep extensions.

Suspension training sets include a number of handles with webbing straps and various types of length adjustment hardware. Some of these sets are surprisingly expensive, particularly for the sailor who is inclined to quickly lash the equivalent from old bits of line. But you don’t need to buy anything fancy.

Suspension exercises are similar to body weight exercises in that they use your body weight for resistance but change the leverage so that you are generally exerting much less force than your full body weight. They are also similar to resistance band exercises in the sense that your motion is mostly unconstrained against the resistance so that you strengthen all your stabilizing muscles in addition to the large muscle groups. Do be careful about doing suspension training while underway as compensating for the motion of the boat can be difficult during some exercises and may result in injury if the boat moves in an unexpected way.

In addition to strength training, it is important to incorporate cardiovascular exercise to your routines.

My land-based cardio routine of running, hiking, and cycling obviously does not work on board unless we are anchored off of a nice long beach. Many cruisers tell me that they get plenty of exercise with just their normal activities on board. I know I often feel that way with all the kayaking, swimming, and other activities we include in our cruising. Still, when looking objectively, I do not get a good cardio workout without doing so intentionally. To really benefit your

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cardiovascular and pulmonary systems, think about exercising at least twice a week for twenty minutes or more vigorously enough to raise your heart and breathing rate so that carrying on a conversation is difficult. When I kayak I often get distracted by some wildlife or other scenery and soon find I’m not paddling very hard. A timer app on your phone or an inexpensive kitchen timer, can be a great help ensure you get a quality cardio workout. Set it for 20 or 30 minutes and exercise intentionally first before enjoying the rest of your activity at a leisurely pace.

When on a passage, you may be stuck on the boat. In that case, your best bet for a cardio workout is to be intentional about the pace and ordering of your strength training.

Start your workout with exercises working smaller muscle groups, for example doing wrist curls and internal and external rotator cuff rotations that will increase your heart and breathing more gradually.

Then move on to more strenuous exercises. Limit your recovery time between sets to keep your breathing and heart rate elevated.

The final piece of physicality you should work on is flexibility. It is common to lose flexibility as we age, but flexibility is key to continuing to enjoy all the great activities associated with cruising. Yoga is a terrific, comprehensive practice for maintaining mobility in joints and length in muscles, as well as balancing the sympathetic nervous system. Other exercise practices like dynamic stretching, myofascial release, and eccentric (muscle lengthening) activation provide similar benefits.

In all cases, it can be a challenge to adapt to the limited spaces and slanted or curved surfaces available on board. Fortunately, with a bit of creativity you can overcome these challenges. I enjoy yoga practices that focus on standing postures, as these poses are easier to fit on deck, and I make sure to move around so that I balance out the effects of sloped decks. While sitting on deck for long periods think w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

5/1/19 4:24 PM

SPINNAKER SLEEVE about how you could use a yoga position to produce a long, slow gentle stretch in the hips, buttocks, or lower back. Again, be sure to balance out your right and left sides. If we are on one tack all day, I know that my lower back will end up cranky if I just let muscles tighten up, especially in some unsymmetrical way.

An important component of exercise for our land-locked friends, building coordination and balance, is where we cruisers thrive. If you are getting your strength training, cardio and stretching on board or on paddle boards and kayaks, etc., then you can congratulate yourself on building and maintaining excellent coordination and balance. In the gym,

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my trainer often instructs me to perform strength exercises while balancing on a half-ball stabilitytrainer; I guarantee that exercising on-board while in a seaway can be more of a challenge.

Often the biggest hindrance to proper exercise on board is just the distractions of the cruising life.

Making time for exercise boils down to the Nike tag line - “Just Do It!” Another hinderance can be the variability of your days while cruising, at anchor versus on passage, etc., and the difficulty of building and maintaining habits. Thinking ahead and mentally planning to exercise can be very helpful. Remember, the more you exercise the more you are likely to want to exercise; it is just up to you to get started and build good habits, on board or off. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 117 5/1/19 4:24 PM

A New Generation of Liveaboard Sailors

By Melanie Farmer

In July of 2016 I met a handsome man at a local swimming hole who had my attention the moment I laid eyes on him. He told me he was leaving on his sailboat soon and I laughed. I had never been on a sailboat before and had some skepticism that a boy from Tennessee knew anything about sailing to begin with. As it turned out, he wasn’t pulling my leg. He had beautiful little 1969 Morgan 30 on Lake Chickamauga that he would take me out on in the following months. I quickly gained an appreciation for sailing.

The following autumn, Brian and the men in his family took the boat to Spring City, Tennessee to have some work done on by an old family friend. Dave Rehring is a legendary man with intriguing tales of life on the water. He happened to be a master of many trades and had the original Atomic Four gasoline engine running like

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a top in no time. Dave was a wealth of knowledge and always more than thrilled to share his tips and tricks with Brian and his brother Marc.

Brian completed many tasks while at Dave’s dock in hopes that he wouldn’t run into many issues while trying to adjust to the liveaboard life. Though numerous projects were completed at the dock, it was a known thing that the boat would be a work in progress as she moved down the waterway.

Fast forward to March 6, 2017. Brian, Marc, and I woke up on the boat at the dock and walked up to Dave’s cabin to have some coffee with him and his wife, Karen. We had a bittersweet talk, knowing that this was the last day that Dave would be able to look out his window and see another boat sitting beside his at the dock. It wasn’t just any boat though. This w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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boat was special. Dave had known this boat since it was ordered new and had stories of his own to tell us about. It had been owned by a family friend who passed it down to Brian prior to his passing.

The boat was well known to Privateer Yacht Club, where Brian and Marc grew up racing in various boat classes under the guidance of their father, Bill, and grandfather, Ken. Today, Brian’s boat, Golden Fleece, was leaving the cove to set out on unbelievable adventures.

We all walked to the dock together and prepared the boat for departure. Dave gave us lastminute advice and we all exchanged hugs. We threw off the dock lines and with a small shove, we were off! This was a monumental moment that Brian had worked so hard to prepare for. We made it about 50 yards off when Brian turned the boat around, swung by the dock one more time, and said with a laugh as he tossed his car keys to Dave, “Whew, its scary out there! We’re back!” We were not actually fearful yet, so we sailed out of the cove into Watts Bar Lake to begin a new journey on Golden Fleece.

We looked back at Dave, Karen, and Dave’s boat, Siren’s Song, sitting at the dock. Forty-five years earlier the view had been reversed. When Dave left the dock in Chattanooga with his family onboard, he could look back and see Golden Fleece sitting in the dock space right beside his now empty one. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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On Day One we approached the Watts Bar Lock and Dam for our first official lock of the trip. We looked up and noticed familiar faces waving down to us. Dave and Karen had driven out to the dam to cheer us on. It seemed that Dave was feeling nostalgic as he watched us begin this new adventure. We knew that he could reflect back on his days of leaving the dock too.

He and Karen were a great support to us, physically and mentally preparing us for what was to come.

After locking through, we noticed a neat looking little spot that we wanted to explore, so we dropped the anchor and hopped in the dinghy to head to the shore. We walked the shoreline and checked out some rubbish that had washed up.

After arriving back to the boat, the guys fished a bit. Both reeled in a few striped bass each and threw them back before pulling anchor again. Not long after this, our first dose of storms arrived. We hunkered down

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in a little cove and began our first project: cutting the sheet of memory foam into mattresses. We didn’t want to sleep on uncomfortable 48-year-old mattresses on our first night, you know. The storm passed rather slowly. But eventually, Mother Nature finished crying and we continued on.

Richland Cove was our first anchorage on the journey as liveaboards. We dropped the Danforth and settled in. Brian fired up the alcohol-fueled stove to start a delicious dinner of deer steak, mac and cheese, and potatoes. Our bellies were pleased.

It was established that we needed to keep a journal of our daily lives on the boat, so we sat down to write. I noticed that Brian’s first entry read “We wore out some stripper today.” I laughed and realized that his misspelling could have caused a real hard questioning session had I not been there to know darn well that he didn’t. He just went fishing with his brother, thankfully. We ended Day One with the consensus that this was an adventure worth attempting. The guys had already realized that the liveaboard life was much different than the racing life. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 121 5/1/19 4:24 PM

It’s All Your Fault!

By Kathy Jura

It was a high school reunion in Yuma that brought Your magazine and its earlier iteration (now current!), Latitudes & Attitudes, have had a profound us together with an old acquaintance of his who was selling an older Ericson sailboat. We couldn’t resist. effect on my life.

My husband, Michael, has always had the I drove that boat on a hot day all the way from Yuma blue-water sailing dream. Both of us are Colorado to Lake Havasu with our old pickup and Michael River rats from Yuma, Arizona. I would have been shooting me with a spray bottle to cool me because we were using the cab heater to happy continuing to recreate on that cool off the overheating engine. beloved river in all its many miles and It’s all your fault, Teaching ourselves to sail Jazz’d moods from our house in Flagstaff, put the lie to the sailing school in AZ. Can you say Lake Powell? (Check and I’m coming to San Diego I’d called. Some guy out Rainbow Bridge, and diving off tell you how much I warned me that self-teaching the cliffs). was what turned too many We have always been water appreciate it. sailboats into “matchwood.” people, which seems strange in Arizona, land of cactus and sunshine, As all boat owners do, until you know that we grew up across an irrigation we imagined ourselves as pirates, walking around and saying “Arrr” all the time—especially Michael. canal from each other, about a mile from the river.

The first thing I drove was my dad’s bass And so it was natural to get a subscription from boat. The first place Michael and his siblings swam Lats&Atts, the sailing magazine for “the rest of us.”

It was misadventures on our first overnight trip when they moved to the area was that canal, which by the way was posted as off-limits to swimmers on Jazz’d that led me to turn a letter to a friend into an article which you published, much to my astonishment. by my father, head of the Irrigation District…

Marrying Michael all those years later when My first published writing ever. I opened the envelope we reconnected in Flagstaff got me disinherited for in an empty house and there was no one to hear me scream or watch me jump up and down. a year. And I was an only child!

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It was my neighbor Kristin, knowing we sailed, who one day excitedly asked me if I’d ever read Latitudes & Attitudes magazine. I admitted with an internal smile that I had. She said her husband’s sister’s husband had engaged one of the magazine’s column writers to captain their chartered catamaran for a 10-day trip in the BVI. “Is this a family trip?” I inquired.

Her eyes widened. “We still have one cabin available!” she said. “Would you guys like to come?

That would be so cool!”

“The answer is yes,” I replied. “I have to call Michael right now, but the answer is definitely yes.”

Michael and I had toyed with the idea of getting charter licenses for a while. The question always boiled down to money: flights, the expense of schooling, which classes to take, should we combine it with a vacation, etc. I frankly wanted to do in it a beautiful vacation spot, and now fate had dropped one into my lap.

The phone call went something like this: Me: “Thomas and Kristin want us to go on a catamaran sail with them in the BVI.” Him: “So how much will it cost?” To be fair, Michael’s the one who has kept us financially stable over the years, with me being the profligate spender.

Me: “Well, I was thinking we could go to sailing school first and dovetail it with the trip after. Then we would only have one set of airfares for the whole thing!” w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Most of you women will recognize this tactic, and in this case it worked. We wound up with catamaran charter licenses and a great vacation. I still love Kristin and Thomas for letting me invite us along for the trip.

After a few other charters on our own, I realized how expensive these trips were. I thought that money would otherwise be a great down payment on our own boat.

Which is how we wound up with Godiva, our beautiful Fountaine Pajot Venezia. Why did we buy a boat on the opposite coast from where you live? Simple. We want to cruise the Caribbean.

Godiva has been here in Florida for a while. We were hemming and hawing about “the date” we’d be financially ready to move onto her. We were losing friends and family to old age and disease. One day this past February I asked Michael when he thought we might move to Florida, and he said in five years, when we had Medicare. I thought about my looming 60th birthday in July and told him I thought we should either go this year or sell the boat. I think it was purely in jest that he told me I’d need a job here with medical benefits, but I took it as a gauntlet thrown down.

Three weeks later I called him.

“Are you sitting down?” I asked.

He was at work. “No,” he said. I told him I had a job offer, with benefits, in Florida. There was dead silence on the phone for a few moments. “Okay,” he said, “now I’m sitting down.”

I love my husband. He said no to my offer to turn down the job. He bought airfare and three weeks later flew with me to Florida to get me settled on the boat and into my new job. Then he flew home to Flagstaff. We agreed he would move here by Christmas. He actually made it on November 13 and has been fixing and cleaning ever since. We have already had our first visitor, and have a long list of folks who want to sail with us. The happiness I feel is beyond words.

I love my family. We are multigenerational, all living in a big house on five acres in the sticks. They have supported this dream all the way and are keeping the house together in our absence. Thank you so much Krystyna, Thomas, David, Ena and Zena, and Uncle Dave.

We’ve locked our bedroom but all things willing will be back someday. You guys are stupendous.

Of course I was an early subscriber to Cruising Outpost and noticed the Miami Boat Show may be the last time you do a show in the U.S. We are an hour from Miami. Our accommodations are booked and show tickets bought. My days off are requested.

It’s all your fault, and I’m coming to tell you how much I appreciate it.

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5/1/19 4:24 PM

It’s a Dog’s Life

By John Woods

Essential Dog Etiquette Rules in Harbors Taking your dog to a harbor can be a fun and exciting experience for you both. However, with so many new sights, smells, and sounds, it can be a little bit overwhelming for Fido.

In this article we’re going to take a look at dog etiquette rules in a harbor, and some tips to ensure you both enjoy your time, whether it’s as a one-off experience or it is going to become a regular trip for you both if you have your own boat.

Keep Your Dog on Leash The first basic rule in all harbors is to keep your dog on a leash at all times; this helps to keep them safe.

Even if your dog is a great swimmer, harbors can be busy places, and the last thing you want is for your dog to become distracted and run off. This is dangerous for both you and your dog, especially if you end up having to chase after w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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them! It’s also hazardous to other people in the harbor to have a dog running around.

Ensure Your Dog Knows the Basic Commands Before you even consider taking your dog to a harbor, they should reliably know these commands at a bare minimum: • Stand – to allow other people to pass by safely on the footpath or the jetty • Wait – so they don’t push past anyone • Leave it – in case they are about to try and get something you don’t want them to have You might find that your dog is well trained in all of these commands at home, but they may struggle to listen to them in busy areas.

If this is the case, make sure you practice in plenty of other busy areas, such as the local park or outside the grocery store, before taking them to a harbor.

Latitudes & Attitudes 125 5/1/19 4:24 PM

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You could even practice around other bodies of water that are less busy, for example a lake or reservoir.

Pick Up After Your Dog If harbors don’t have a designated area for your dog to go to the toilet, make sure you pick up after them.

You should always carry a poop bag anyway as a responsible dog owner, and being at the harbor is no exception. Nobody wants to step in your dog’s mess and then tramp it onto their boat.

You’ll likely have to pay quite a substantial fine if you are spotted not picking up after your dog.

No Swimming This is perhaps a really obvious thing to state, but harbors are usually quite busy places, with boats coming in and out all day.

Do not allow your dog to swim in the water under any circumstances. Not only will your dog be in danger, but you’ll be putting other people’s lives in danger too. A large boat is unlikely to spot your small dog in the water when they’re coming into a bay. If you want to take your dog swimming, look up a dog-friendly beach or lake.

Respect Each Harbor’s Rules Always familiarize yourself with the harbor and its rules before taking your dog there. Take a walk around yourself, looking out for specific areas that might be dedicated to walking your dog, playing, or taking toilet breaks.

Sometimes dogs might not be allowed in particular areas of the harbor.

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signage, don’t just presume it’s OK, ask someone at the information point.

Stay Vigilant Just as you would ensure your kids don’t run around in a busy place, you need to make sure your dog doesn’t either.

Watch them as you would your children. Don’t allow them to go into any places that are dangerous, or too close to the edge of the walkway. Situations can change in a split second, so stay vigilant and give your dog your full attention.

Put Your Dog in a Flotation Device The last piece of advice we have for you and your dog is more for the safety of your dog than anyone else. Put a flotation device on your dog!

Even if you have your dog on leash, and they are well-trained, no matter how hard you try, you can’t predict every possible situation. It’s better to be safe than sorry, so if you dog does happen to fall into the water for whatever reason, he is still safe if he’s wearing a life jacket.

Even if your dog is a good swimmer, he still might panic if he slips into the water and is surrounded by large boats, so putting him in a flotation device, will help to keep him above the water and give you a couple extra minutes to find a way to pull him out.

If you stick to all of these rules, you should be able to ensure that the experience in the harbor is a safe and enjoyable one for both you and your dog. Aim to keep their first trip to the harbor short and sweet, so they can take in all the new sights, smells, and sounds without becoming overwhelmed. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Talk of the Dock Charter Therapy

Destinations & Celebrations. What are you waiting for?

So, you can’t wait to untie the dock lines and head out on your summer cruise. You were all ready to go, but maybe your engine blew up, or your electronics are on the fritz, or your spouse refuses to do the same old thing in the same old cove.

Why not spread your wings and explore far-flung destinations on someone else’s boat this year?

There is so much new stuff going on around the world that the hardest thing about chartering will be just deciding where to go and how much fun to have. Let’s see what’s new.

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Dream Yacht Charter – New Places and New Ways to Get There

Only a few years ago, DYC was an up-andcomer but now they’re touting they have the largest charter fleet in the world. Their new larger base in the BVI is on Scrub Island. To help you get there, they’ve partnered with Dolphin Water Taxi to provide transportation from St. Thomas airport to Red Hook where you can board the ferry. You go from baggage claim to boarding your yacht quickly and easily. You even clear customs without disembarking at Road Town.

In 75 minutes, you’ll have your paperwork dealt with, your luggage managed, and a drink in your hand, all for $149 per person. Flying into St. Thomas is cheaper than flying into BVI and if you give me a drink and let me skip that customs nonsense—ummm, yeah!

Now, if BVI is not your go-to place, check out DYC’s new bases in the Exumas, Belize, St. Lucia, Maldives, and Turkey.

Now, DYC even includes the French Atlantic Coast, due to their purchase of a Brittany-based outfit—and they’ve re-opened their base in Madagascar. And if you feel like saying you own a yacht in the Caribbean, DYC has also introduced a fractional ownership model where people can partner to share costs so you don’t have to come up with that hefty down payment all on your own. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

4/29/19 1:44 PM

The Latest News & Gossip Inside the Industry

from

By Zuzana Prochazka

As an insider, Zuzana sees a lot of what’s happeing inside the boating industry. If you are into the boating lifestyle, chances are you’d like to be privyto some of the things that will affect your lifestyle as soon as thye become available. So, here is some of the inside information she has found while working the boat shows and industry functions.

Fabulous at Fifty

I’m not sure there’s anything fabulous about the “F” word except when it applies to a charter company’s longevity. The Moorings celebrates their 50th anniversary in 2019 having grown from humble beginnings with only six Pearson yachts in the BVI to the worldwide mega-fleet they manage today at over 20 destinations.

The company is celebrating with sponsored cruises in Croatia and the BVI that include dinners ashore and parties, as well as with the introduction of a new catamaran model, the Moorings 5000.

And as if that doesn’t arouse your curiosity enough, they’ve also opened new locations in the Med (Italy) and the Caribbean (Martinique).

The Moorings sister company, Sunsail, continues to innovate with their “by-the-cabin” charters where you buy room on a boat with others you may or may not know. Sunsail’s flotillas are a big attraction too with 14 routes including cruising grounds in the Caribbean and the Med.

the fleets of mid-range companies like Horizon, CYOA, Conch, and others have been refreshed with new hulls and new technology. A week-long charter accompanied by that new boat smell is worth the trip alone.

Go Now, Go Big

Keep up with charter news by visiting various company websites and signing up for their newsletter. Then you can be insufferably wellinformed about all things charter-related on your next cocktail cruise.

Sometimes the best therapy is your dog. Other times, it’s your feet up on a winch with an icy sundowner in your hand. It’s a no brainer to go somewhere cultural or exotic this year. Just book, fly, and cruise. You don’t even have to wash the boat afterward. Seriously, why isn’t your VISA card out already?

Go Electric

Thankfully, we’re not quite to self-driving boats yet, but hybrid and electric propulsion continues to proliferate. If you’re an early adopter, or maybe an Elon Musk wannabe, check out Voyage Yacht Charters which is offering a 48-foot, electric cat in the BVI. You’ll tread lightly on the environment and your wallet at the fuel dock when you charter their aptly named yacht: Electrified.

Shiny New Boats

If I haven’t gotten your attention yet, consider this: Hurricane Irma wiped a wide swath of boats out of existence in the Caribbean. Many have been replaced by shiny new vessels, and w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 129 4/29/19 1:44 PM

Fishy Business

by Jessica Lloyd-Mostyn

It’s an unspoken rule, almost a seafaring law, that those who are liveaboard, long-term, worldwide cruisers can catch the freshest, finest fish that the oceans have to offer. Any old salt can throw out a line and reel in dinner with the ease and polish of one who has made those same moves and gestures since they were a small fry.

However, those of us relatively new to the cruising life, who are learning all the lessons of the sea simultaneously, have a far less stylish, less effective, and unsophisticated approach towards the obligatory fishing activities.

Neither James nor I had even attempted to fish before in our landlubber, pre-boat lives. But the thought of catching food for our table while living on board had a certain appeal and we were keen to experiment. Armed with a few shiny, new hand reels that we bought in the Canary Islands and a simple fishing rod gifted to us by a friend, we tried our luck for the first time when crossing the Atlantic. We had a brightly-coloured and fun assortment of lures to choose from, ranging from pink toy squids to silver imitation flying fish.

Much to our amazement, we succeeded in landing and identifying our first mahi-mahi, also known as dorado, and managed a quite nifty technique of reeling it in close to the boat, scooping it on board with a net, and delivering a swift blow to its head with a winch handle. It was the most delicious fish, and the four of us on board were eating it for two days.

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Their very first fish. This was the first of many, but none meant as much as it did!

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During the next two weeks at sea we caught two more mahi-mahi, each bigger than the last and significantly harder to land. The net broke with fish number two and as we had no gaff on board and, at that time, no functioning autopilot, our somewhat shambolic method of securing our dinner involved reeling in as much as possible by hand and then hurling the catch into the cockpit, whilst whoever was hand-steering did their best to duck.

Then you were left with a wildly thrashing and angry fish at your feet while you try to dispatch it as quickly as possible.

Chaotic? Yes. But, we did at least get three gorgeous fish on that crossing that fed all the crew.

In hindsight, my conclusion is that mahi-mahi are a particularly stupid breed of fish, that, although undeniably beautiful, like to follow boats on the Atlantic crossing route just to lull them into a false estimation of their trawling skills.

Why? Because, upon our arrival in the Caribbean, everyone had experienced the same accomplishment, many catching far more than we did and all with little skill or knowledge involved. The Atlantic also brought the added bonus of our first encounter with flying fish. These iridescent, lovely little creatures literally fly onto your decks and get stranded meaning that for no effort whatsoever you can have fried fish for breakfast.

Just in case it wasn’t apparent, I should point out that we are solely interested in catching fish for necessary food. We never attempt it if the fridge is full or with any idea of fishing as a sport.

Latitudes & Attitudes 131 4/29/19 10:05 AM

Fishy Business

A swift dispatch with a blow from a broken stanchion

Gutting and filleting on deck keeps the scales, blood, and smell out of the cabin

Big fish can be a bit of a struggle to bring in by hand Look mummy, FISH

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So, after this crossing and returning back to our crew of two, it was some time until we tested our talents again. Or perhaps the fairest way to put it is that it was some time until we actually managed to catch anything again. I remember several toy squids and plastic fish being eaten by unseen fish who then promptly swam away. Our next score was in Cuba, and I was the poor soul at the helm trying to keep our course while James unceremoniously flung the fish over my head onto the cockpit floor. It was a tasty bonus and meant we could extend our stay in the southern islands but, to this day, we have absolutely no idea what kind of fish it was.

Which brings us to a major hurdle of the novice cruiser fisherman—identification. Granted, there are times when it’s not too vital to know what you’re catching and eating; fortunately for us that time in Cuba was one such time. But I’m only able to say that as neither of us had any ill effects from the mystery fish. We hadn’t even given a thought to whether or not it might have had ciguatera, a gamble that we wouldn’t take now that we’re sailing and fishing with an infant.

There are times when catching food for the table is an ability that even we can carry out with total cool and aplomb. The most satisfying of these times are, undoubtedly, when you have visitors on board. Catching something fresher than your landbased friends and family have ever tasted is the climax to the cocktails-on-deck-at-sunset pictureperfect cruising holiday experience that we all relish giving to our guests, even though the liveaboard reality is often a far cry from this scene. But, far from being a smoothly choreographed procedure, I should w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 133 4/29/19 10:05 AM

Fishy Business A large crayfish caught in Papua New Guinea

The trusty net, before it broke!

Below: Barracuda can be perfectly safe to eat in certain areas. Not to mention very tasty.

A delicious crab for lunch, caught with a spear

Teaching our small fry our very limited skills

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managed to infiltrate the Atlantic by mistaken human intervention. They eat just about anything they can swallow, but almost nothing eats them which makes them a very easy catch. They pose a real threat to reefs as many corals rely on the herbivore fish that are no longer there thanks to the lionfish. There are now huge numbers of them in the Caribbean, much greater densities than in their native Pacific waters. So, they make for a good deed and target-practice all in one.

Plus, once you get past the venomous spines, they make for good eating.

The real snag to our all-or-nothing luck with fishing has to be that the lures we put out bear very little relation to the size of fish we eventually land.

On the Pacific coast of Costa Rica we landed an 8-kilogram mahi-mahi, which we ate for a week. That was with a really simple, 3-inch metal “spoon” lure, which had only ever caught us much smaller fish before. But, to gut and fillet so large a beast on the aft deck while sliding around in a rolly sea is quite a challenge. Fresh sashimi on day one became breadcrumbed fish and chips on day two, and we ended the week with fish curry. We even fried the roe in butter and had it with toast for breakfast. But, a fish that large was quite overwhelming for the two of us to consume and it took some time for us to attempt to put the lines out again. Our most recent catch, another mahi-mahi, dwarfed that one by comparison as it weighed in at a whopping 12.5 kilograms, so we donated some to other cruising families to ensure none of it would go to waste. To wrestle and kill a fish of that size isn’t something we’d be keen to repeat anytime soon.

Our techniques have at least improved. But, although we now have a trusty working autopilot w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

4/29/19 10:05 AM

䈀䄀䌀伀一匀䄀䤀䰀匀⸀䌀伀䴀

Smaller but colourful reef fish

and a wind vane, we still don’t have a gaff on board.

So now the helmsman is spared the fish missile being aimed at them, but we still have the issue of how to land the thing. Happily, we’ve discovered that the baby netting around the guardrails stops the friskier of our catches from wriggling away and we’ve upgraded from the winch handle to striking the final blow with a broken stanchion.

And a length of “tracer” wire attaching the lure to the line has stopped us from losing quite so many fish and lures. Though the plastic squid are now a favourite toy of our baby daughter, minus the hooks of course. We’ve even learned a thing or two about the best places to attempt fishing, with reef passes from deep to shallow water yielding the best results.

But, in truth, it’s still total luck as to whether or not we have fish for dinner. And, in spite of everything we’ve learned, there seems to be no rhyme or reason about when our efforts will come off. I think our chances are much like those of finding flying fish on deck when the sun comes up. We cross our fingers, cast our lines, and hope it won’t be too long until we fill our bellies.

Our boat in Panama w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

pg 130-135 Fishy Business - editedbyKatie.indd 7

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A

f o s ng le

y t i x e l p r Pe

Of course, nautical English is mainly designed to confuse and impress, and works best when it does both at once. They teach this in courses, which garner certificates, which impress non-sailor friends when they come around for dinner, but confuse those with any intention of going sailing.

The solution to this is to do more courses, which eventually stops normal people from coming for dinner. To achieve this, all you need to do is respond accordingly when they ask the way to your toilet (bathroom) where all your certificates are arranged at eye-level—both for men and women.

Here is an example of a student’s work: “Toilet?

Aah, you mean ‘heads’ with an ‘s’ which is properly plural although we only have one. You will find the heads with an ‘s’ by laying a transit down the lobby three points north of north, north-east-west until you reach the bannister post. Then turn 360 degrees truemagnetic to larboard and you’ll find the heads with an ‘s’ abaft the pantry to leeward of the scullery. And

by Dave Selby Art by Claudia Myatt

please correct for deviation over the bowl. I don’t want to have to swab the ceilings.”

Now, to the appraisal. Of course, this is far from perfect nautical English. In proper sea parlance ceilings aren’t ceilings at all, but neither are they floors; as everybody knows ceilings are the internal covering planks on the side of a vessel. Likewise nautical floors have nothing to do with floors. I’m rather surprised I even had to explain that. This student earns extra marks for the use of larboard in place of port, which is in danger of being understood.

The use of the archaic “pantry” and “scullery” in place of the modern forms “cupboard” and “another cupboard” is creative, but the overall fault with this student’s work is that far too many words were pronounced as they are spelt. This is wrong. Far better than leeward, is looward, which is certainly appropriate in this case, but is in danger of being understood and is therefore better abbreviated to loo’ard, then loord, lord and eventually to ld.

The pass mark was a lot higher in my day!

136 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 136-137 Angles of perplexity - editedbyKatie.indd 2

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Overall, it’s a fair stab by And thus the diligent a below-average student with student will have even more time delusions of adequacy. Examiners for even more courses and ever will, of course, more advanced take into confusion.

In account that this respect, this student’s mentoring by life chances former students have been is invaluable. hampered At our club, as by a severely soon as the advantaged tearful red-faced background. students pile So there out of class and you have it. slump at the bar If you apply with their little yourself, the bulging satchels conscientious and throbbing student will brains, kindly soon find graduates that he, or of previous even she, has years stop all refined his, talk of attic or even her, conversions, peer group of mortgages, and normal friends down to zero, which pension short-falls, and get stuck allows more time for courses. If into mentoring. Mentoring, in strict you haven’t yet achieved this and nautical English, involves explaining still have normal friends who come how much easier courses are these for dinner, try talking about springs days than in those past, enquiring and neaps. Springs, you’ll explain whether current studnets have yet to your diminishing circle of dinner memorized the sight reduction guests, aren’t spring greens tables, as every student should, or but spring tides, which don’t have begun tackling the angles of just happen in Spring but twice perplexity. “What?” cries student. monthly, except when they’re not “Oh,” says mentor. “To tides at all, and then they’re ropes calculate the correct angle of for tying your boat up, but of perplexity, simply reduce a sun course ropes can also be sheets sight to chart-datum allowing for as well as springs. By the time you collimation error whilst dividing get on to explaining that neaps by the square root of Thames are not in fact neaps and tatties measurement tonnage on the (i.e., turnips and potatoes in shore- vernal equinox.” (Read twice if based English), your former normal necessary; it took me weeks to friends will be so impressed memorise that). By now most they’ll be reaching into the wet- students will have adopted a near locker for their “jackets” or more perfect angle of perplexity—about properly southwesters, which can 73 degrees top dead center—along be abbreviated to sou’wester but with an occluded frontal lobe. is even better misunderstood if Lessons Not Learned: shortened further to sou’ster, and All of them, apart from the ones I forgot! eventually just to s’r. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

pg 136-137 Angles of perplexity - editedbyKatie.indd 3

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T ech T ips There is Nothing Better Than a Shower at the End of a Day at Sea

By Captain Shane McClellan aboard s/v Guiding Light

When I first bought Guiding Light almost ten years ago, she was a four-cabin, four-head Lagoon 410. In order to take a shower, you basically sat on the toilet and pulled the sink faucet out and used it as a shower head. As soon as I moved aboard, I decided that I did not want to sit on a toilet every time I wanted to take a shower and then deal with the floor being wet if I needed to go the bathroom.

So, I removed the toilet and sawzalled the sink away in the port aft cabin. This left me with a nice big space for a shower that already had a drain and sump pump. All I had to do was add a shower head and handles, and then add a sheet of white plastic as a wall. It actually looked pretty good and worked well.

When I replaced my engines this off season, I chose to toss the old hot water heater. I did this because it was 21 years old, falling apart, hooked up to the old engine, and on the opposite side of the boat. I decided that I did not really like having the hot water run through the engine cooling system, because this meant I only had hot water when I ran the engine. Also, it took an entire shower before the hot water finally got to the shower (during a charter I always told the moms to let the kids go first, hehe).

After much research and testing, I chose to have a 160-watt, 12volt solar panel wired directly to a home hot water tank. The solar panel was able to power the heating element in the tank without a regulator, except for the thermostat in the hot water tank itself. For the hot water tank, I chose a German-made, four-gallon Stiebel Eltron I found at Home Depot. This was due both to its size and how well it looked. I also replaced my old two-handle shower faucet with a new scald-guard mixing faucet that’s required in new homes.

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The first order of business was to tear out all the original improvements and get the shower back to the bare side wall. I then used 5/8inch plastic boards I found at Home Depot that measured two feet by four feet, to frame out where the hot water heater and faucet handle would be located. For the hot water heater, I built a shelf for it to sit on and a backing board for mounting it. Building it this way meant all the weight was on the platform and not the mounting board. Once all this was in place, I used the twofoot by four-foot boards as wall panelling instead of one giant sheet like before. Oh my goodness, did this make a huge difference in the ease of getting it mounted. Where the joint between the boards would flex, I took a long piece of scrap board and screwed it onto the lower part of the back of one of the boards with some hang over. Once the next board was in place, I screwed it into this overlap and it pulled the joint tight. To finish the shower, I stained and sealed some small trim, put little plastic screw covers in place, caulked each joint, and re-caulked the shower pan.

Of course, as my best friend, who helped so much in the research stage, says, “No job will be successful unless there is the letting of blood.” Therefore, it should come as no surprise that the shower is working great, because I had several decent cuts by the time I was done!

In the end, the solar panel heats up the water even on cloudy days to a comfortable level and on sunny days you can only turn the hot water on a little bit. The best part is that the hot water is there within the time it takes you to wet your hair, due to the short distance it has to travel. As Hannibal Smith of the A-Team would say, “I love it when a plan comes together!”

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pg 138-139 Tech Tips - editedbyKatie.indd 3

Latitudes & Attitudes 139 4/29/19 1:58 PM

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Selling Up or Sailing On

by Jessica Lloyd-Mostyn

The end of downwind routes poses the classic question: “Do we keep going or is it time to sell?”

From trying to sell a boat on a deadline in a foreign land, to wanting to trade up to a bigger boat, or even friends desperately wanting to bring an end to a cruising dream turned sour, we know plenty of sailors ready to swallow the anchor.

But, more inspiring perhaps, are those who find that a different kind of cruising, an expanding family, or a radical change of plans isn’t halting

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Latitudes & Attitudes 141

Selling Up or Sailing On

Selling a boat in New Zealand their cruising ambitions and are already planning their next sailing season.

There is a well-known but rather negative saying about boats warning that there are only two days of happiness when it comes to boat ownership: the first is the day you hand over the money to buy your yacht, the second is the day you sell her. Our own family sailing is certainly not a cruise with a finite end point in sight. But there are countless boaters out there who travel with much more of a plan in mind and, while sailing west from the UK along many well-trodden tradewind paths, we’ve come across a wide range of strategies to peoples’ cruising.

Many have made savvy choices about places where they can buy a sound, bluewater boat cheaply and then sail it across to somewhere where they

Adapting the boat to sail with small fry

can sell it for a great profit. The trick of making this kind of plan work is to really know your markets to reap the most of the price advantages of buying in a stagnant one and selling in an active one. We saw many examples of this when crossing the Pacific, coming into contact with a number of people who had bought boats in the USA or Mexico with a view to selling them some 7,000 miles on in Australia and New Zealand after enjoying a season or two in the South Pacific en route.

Of course, there are some concerns to negotiate with this type of scheme. You’d need to research the rules regarding import and sales tax associated with selling a foreign yacht. There is also the question of how compatible it is with the local infrastructure for things like electrical voltage and liquified petroleum gas refills and fittings. A

Sailing on, wing and wing

Time for a little maintenance

142 Latitudes & Attitudes

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At anchor in the Bay of Islands 110-volt boat may be less appealing to buyers in Australia. Another point to consider is all of the stuff accumulated on board. Any boat that has sailed long distance as a liveaboard will have made good use of all of the available space for provisions, kits, souvenirs, and all the other trappings associated with everyday life. This may make for a boat that seems quite cluttered, so you may want to consider paying for separate storage for these items away from the

boat, shipping things home, or even selling some items off.

But a buying and selling plan to bookend your sailing goals doesn’t have to go hand-in-hand with ocean crossing or long passages. It’s increasingly common for people to fly out from their home countries in order to buy a yacht in a foreign location, cruise in a particular area, and then sell abroad and return home. This option is popular in the always More boats for sale in New Zealand

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Latitudes & Attitudes 143

Selling Up or Sailing On A beautiful anchorage in Vanuatu

Securing little ones on deck desirable sailing grounds of the Caribbean and the Mediterranean, and helps get around the problem of sailing thousands of miles, possibly upwind, on the route back. Shipping or transporting a boat across an ocean is a prohibitively expensive exercise and would dramatically impact any profit of selling. Plus, such attractive boating areas as these can provide you with the option of cruising at a leisurely pace while your boat is on the market as the big uncertainty will be how long it will take to sell her. You may find that marina fees in foreign ports are significantly lower than what you’d pay back home. An attractive marina setting can make a huge impression on prospective

Selling in Australia

144 Latitudes & Attitudes

buyers as the boat then becomes part of a lifestyle to which many aspire. However, there will be things to take into account such as the currency exchange and language issues. Do you plan to use a broker?

Would it be easy for a buyer from abroad to come and visit the boat?

For every sailor who dreams of circumnavigation there are a dozen more who are only interested in cruising specific areas, or who want to avoid certain countries or long passages, so there may be a natural end point to the purpose of your sailing. Perhaps your funds have run dry, or health concerns in your family or the education of your children are forcing

Enjoying an ocean crossing

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your hand somewhat. Or maybe the cruising dream simply didn’t work out how you had expected. Each year there are many boat crews who experience a less-than-ideal Pacific crossing and arrive in French Polynesia disheartened and disillusioned with the sailing life. We know one couple where the wife had such a bad time on the passage that she promptly left the boat; her husband had to find extra crew to help him sail on to Australasia. When he arrived safely they agreed to sell their 60-foot catamaran and settle on land with their family instead. Other friends had sailed from the USA intent on a grand Pacific circuit for several seasons but later changed their minds to doing a loop back from the Society Islands to Hawaii and homewards to the States. It’s great to be able to end your sailing on a high, satisfied with what you’ve accomplished without feeling the need to go further.

But, what happens afterwards? Life on land after living aboard a boat can be a strange reality to be faced with. Liveaboard sailing definitely changes you, and it may well be that time spent on shore transitions into planning out the next adventure or even buying another boat. We have friends from the west of Canada who sailed down the coast of Central America and cruised the South Pacific with us. They sold their 43-foot monohull only two months after arriving in New Zealand a few years ago and are now back in Vancouver, planning to buy a catamaran to cruise South East Asia. Other sailing friends to arrive in the antipodes alongside us took different fast-track routes back to the UK: one opted for transporting his yacht all the way and is now happily using his boat for day sailing on the south coast; another planned for an accelerated year-long sail, joining a number of rallies to speed up formalities and skipping over some countries like Indonesia entirely; a third crew that was first planning to ship their boat back from Singapore to the Mediterranean decided to change course and sail the Indian Ocean and South Africa in order to return.

As for us, we’re now more than seven years into our “quick” circumnavigation which we thought would only last a couple of years. Our crew has grown but our boat hasn’t. We’ve simply adapted it along the way to adjust to our new sailing needs and ambitions. The sailing life does lend itself very well to a certain amount of making things up as you go along, so we, like countless others before us, are happy to go where the wind takes us as long as we’re all still enjoying it. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

Another beautiful anchorage in New Zealand

Anchored in New Zealand, getting ready to sail on!

Latitudes & Attitudes 145

Searching for Zorba

By Chuck Ridgeway

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Let’s sail the Greek Islands! The call has been sounded the world over. People have flocked to Greece to sail the crystal-clear waters, enjoy all things Greek, and maybe find Zorba.

SoulMates on the empty dock in Mytilene

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Patty and I did just this on SoulMates a couple of years ago, spending 3 months sailing to over 30 ports of call from Corfu to Samos. During that time, half or more of the Mediterranean fleet was there along with massive cruise ships disgorging hordes of people onto the islands and mainland. People wanted to see what, along with the history, culture, food, and experience, Greece had to offer.

And, maybe, if they were lucky, they would find Zorba.

But who was Zorba, and could we really find him?

After reading the book, Zorba the Greek and watching the movie, we began to define Zorba. He was a man who lived a life of tragedy and reversals of fortune yet maintained an unequaled zest for life. He delighted in creativity and problem solving. He embraced life, love, ambition, failure, and even death to the fullest with a common sense attitude. Could such a Zorba exist today?

Or, is he like a unicorn that, while popular, is a myth?

We decided that if Zorba were to be found, we had to sail beyond the beaten path where few charter boats and behemoth cruise ships would venture. We were in search of a place where life was lived simply and each day to the fullest. Where people were real, tough yet gentle. A place where friendships were made easily.

And, most of all, where the people were free from the shackles of a harried daily life. Did such a place exist?

The crew thought that if it did, it would be found on the islands of Northern Greece.

We set out from Turkey in late May. The first port of call was Chios, the birthplace of Homer and an island as tragic as any Homeric verse. The island was sacked by the Romans, invaded by the Saracens, made into a pirate stronghold, invaded and held by the Genoese, captured by the Ottomans with a brutal massacre, and, last but not least, decimated by earthquakes—one of which killed 3,500 people. But the island constantly came back after each tragedy to reestablish itself and begin life anew.

After renting a car, we set out to find Zorba. Chios, like many islands in the Mediterranean, has lentish trees, but only Chios’s trees produce a resin called mastic.

Throughout the centuries, mastic has been a financial

Latitudes & Attitudes 147

Searching for Zorba

Euseblu Niculae with Chuck, Patty and another Romanian friend

Patty looking for Zorba in the walled city of Mesta

SoulMates med moored next to a fishing boat in Mithimna

148 Latitudes & Attitudes

mainstay for the people of Chios and is used for such things as gum, spices, alcohol, sweets, pharmaceuticals, and even the heat tiles on the space shuttle. But why is it only found on Chios? Well, legend has it that in the Roman period, a Christian named Agios Isidoros was given a choice of worshipping Rome or Jesus. He chose Jesus and was tortured. As he was dragged down the road for his execution, his tears fell on the soil and trees began producing mastic.

But that is not the only legend of Chios.

Some believe that Christopher Columbus was born on the island. One house even bears the coat of arms of the Columbus family. And, historical documents show that Columbus was on the island, his journeys were written in both Greek and Italian, many members of his crew were from Chios, and many people in the town have the surname Columbus. So, was Columbus Greek or Italian? You decide.

On the way back to SoulMates, the crew discovered the walled city of Metsa, where the Russians gave the people 70 kilos of silver to build icons to St. Michael and St. Gabriel. Walking the narrow streets, we could imagine Zorba here, but did not find him. So, onward we went to Nea Moni, an 11th-century monastery.

Built with money from Emperor Constantine, the monastery grew quite large, ultimately covering one-third of Chios and housing 800 monks. It was given special dispensation with land grants, paid no taxes, and had special privileges for business, including their own ocean-going freighter for trade. However, as the Ottoman’s took control it was downsized, and after the massacre there was not much left. The earthquake took what remained; but, like a lot of Chios, it was resurrected. Now, the monks are gone but there are a few nuns, thus Nea Moni is now a convent. Despite the damage Nea Moni has suffered, it has some of the most beautiful 11th-century mosaics and icons around. A lot of work is being done to preserve it. Maybe Zorba could be found working here. After seeking help from the workman, we were disappointed to learn no one by the name of Zorba worked there. So, w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

The fort atop Lesbos onward to the next stop, the abandoned village of Anavatos.

After driving over hill and dale, through mountain passes and hairpin turns, we eventually saw Anavatos on the mountainside across the valley. The once-400-house village is a natural fortress only accessible from the north. The people of Chios sought refuge here during the Ottoman massacre. But the natural fortress did not stop the invaders; all the people who gathered there were killed and the village abandoned. Now, a few scattered houses sit at the bottom for the tourist trade for people who want to climb the very steep road up and through the ruins. Patty decided she was not up for it, but as usual I just put on my climbing face and headed up. I thought maybe I would see Zorba working to recover the village, but all I found was ruins.

With the majority of Chios explored and still no Zorba, we set sail to see if Zorba was on Lesbos. Now, to say Lesbos has a certain reputation is an understatement. I called port control for permission to enter the harbor, which resulted in a lot of confusion. Did I have permission? And where were we to tie up? As I guided SoulMates to the first berth, a Coast Guard woman came out and waved me off. This happened a few more times. There was more radio chatter and eventually the port captain came out on balcony and pointed to where he wanted us to tie up. This was definitely not Zorba.

Lesbos is a huge island and one can spend a lot of time sailing around it. But, the crew decided to make three stops on SoulMates, then rent a car to see the rest. From Mytilini, we headed north and found first a monastery dedicated to St. Michael where people were checking in for a retreat. It was interesting to see the accommodations, but more intriguing was the fighter jet at the entrance. It was a bit incongruous. In the distance, we saw the mountains and hills covered with pine trees.

However, we could not find Zorba. So, we set sail for Plomari on the south side of Lesbos.

As soon as we tied up, a policeman yelled at us from a balcony and asked me to bring up the ship’s papers. As we were being checked in, I asked a few questions, which the policeman was kind enough to answer. He told us where w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

Windmills on Lemnos turned into a hotel

SoulMates med moored at Port Myrina Lemnos

Latitudes & Attitudes 149

Searching for Zorba

Euseblu Niculae leads expeditions into these mountains in Samothraki

SoulMates on the dock of Mytilene Harbor, Lesbos

150 Latitudes & Attitudes

to get provisions, and said if we stayed until Friday there was a nice outing at a Platanos Restaurant.

With winds in the 20-to-30 knot range, leaving was not an option. Friday came and we headed to Platanos. Wow! We discovered that we were near Zorba. It was like the entire town came down to eat, drink ouzo, listen to Greek music, and dance.

Things began to look up. The next day we walked a bit out of town to visit one of the oldest ouzo distilleries in Greece. On yeah, the sampling was great.

Later, as we were back on SoulMates, an earthquake hit a few kilometers off the coast. Inside the harbor there was the sound of hammering on the bottom of SoulMates and then the water began to run out of harbor. Quickly releasing the dock lines, ready to leave before SoulMates hit bottom, the crew looked at the harbor entrance and saw a small wall of water headed at them. We were in a tsunami. It was a long night with the sea running in and out all night.

With better winds it was time to head north to a small anchorage at the town of Sigri and the Petrified Forest Museum. We were pleasantly surprised by the small museum that fully explained how the petrified forest came about and had examples of petrified wood from all over the world. All this in a town of 300 people. We stopped for a quick bite before heading back to SoulMates, and although the restaurant said the kitchen was closed due to it being late afternoon, they offered to make a pizza. What a nice gesture and nice people! Yeah, we were getting closer to Zorba.

Moving on to Methymna it was time to explore an old fort. Now, one of the things that I love and Patty hates is visiting forts. Methymna has a fort at the top of the hill to which Patty said no way. I found a little rubber-wheeled train that ran around the area. Up to the fort we went. For those who have heard the news on the migrant problem in Greece, Lesbos is a prime destination as it very close to the Turkish coast. The coast below the fort is where the migrants arrive.

Lesbos was simply a beautiful place, but we did not find Zorba. So the next day we set sail for Lemnos.

In mythology, the women of Lemnos refused to worship Aphrodite who became angry with them and made them smell, causing their husbands to ignore them.

Under the leadership of the King’s daughter Ypsipyli, the women got the men drunk and killed them all except for the King. A bit later, Jason and the Argonauts showed up on their way back home and found an island of frustrated women. So, they stayed for a while w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

and repopulated the island, with Jason marrying Ypsipyli. You got to love Greek mythology.

Lemnos, like Lesbos, is a pretty island with beaches, forest, pasture land, and farms. We decided that we would rent a car and drive around the island. I went up to a couple of rental agencies and a young lady sat with me and gave me a deal for an off-prime-time rental, then outlined a travel plan that would take us all over the island. I smiled and thought we had definitely found our first Zorba—someone incredibly upbeat, funny, helpful, and simply full of life. Patty took one look at her when I said she was our first Zorba and assured me she was confident that the woman’s good looks did not influence my perspective at all.

We drove around the island and visited the oldest settlement in the Aegean. Poliochni was built in 4,000 B.C. and lasted for 3,400 years. As we continued driving, we rounded a bay so huge that the Allies used it to assemble a fleet and attack Gallipoli during WWI. The wounded from that battle were brought back; those who did not make it were buried here.

Moving on, we arrived at an ancient town of Hephaestia. This town lasted for over 2,000 years; most of it has not yet been excavated. The only part that has been is an ancient temple in which the cult of Hephaestus worshipped. Hephaestus is the god the town is named for, and the cult still remains a bit of a mystery. It is thought that the temple was destroyed in the 3rd century by Christians who deemed it pagan.

With one Zorba found, we set sail from Lemnos to see what other Zorbas we could find.

Once we cleared the breakwater, I went to raise the mainsail when the halyard that holds the sail up broke and the sail partially dropped. This was not good, but fortunately there was not a lot of wind. So, with the main wrapped around the mast, we sailed to Kamariotissa, a small port town on the island of Somathraki. As we were tying up to the dock, a man drove up and welcomed us, saying if we needed anything to let him know. I told him I need someone to help me with our main and pointed to the mast.

The man said he could have someone here at 0900 the next day if that was ok. Wow! After saying it was and thanking him, I began to relax.

The next morning, he drove up and introduced Euseblu Niculae, a Bulgarian mountain climber who leads backcountry excursions. Quickly w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

Cooking roasted goat with an outdoor oven

Who is going to pull the plow on Lemnos?

Mastic trees

Latitudes & Attitudes 151

Temple area of the Sanctuary of the Great Gods

Chuck with Zorba Margaritis, a.k.a. Akis on the island of Samothraki

Searching for Zorba studying the mast and a drawing from me, Euseblu put on his climbing harness, went up the mast, and swiftly had the lines redone. SoulMates again had a main. When I asked how much I owed him, Euseblu said a nice dinner that night. We had definitely found another Zorba. At dinner, Euseblu and I really hit it off, as two mountaineers are wont to do.

With the main fixed, it was time to explore the island, which really only has one real road. I decided I should rent a motor scooter, which Patty adamantly declared I should not do. Not to be deterred, I went to the man who first met us at the dock and ran a rental company. He was not sure if he should rent a scooter to me or not since Patty was continually saying no. So, a deal was struck. I would take the scooter up the road, fill it with gas, and come back at no cost. Off I went, and, well, going straight was ok, but those sharp turns were a bit of an issue—and stopping was something of an adventure! When I got back, I cheerfully agreed to rent a small car.

The island was small, mountainous, and almost totally undeveloped. There was, however, the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, which most of the leading world’s nobles—from Philip of Macedon to Julius Caesar— have visited. It was some type of island cult known as the Eleusinian mysteries that lasted until about 400 A.D. What actually went on there is open to debate, but the statue of Winged Victory that was found there was moved to France, where it currently resides in a museum.

Zorba does exist; so far two have been found. I wonder if there are more, and how far north they go?

A view of the Turkish coast from Lesbos

152 Latitudes & Attitudes

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Join Bob & Jody On Our

Croatia

Share The Sail May, 2020

Come join us sailing one of the most beautiful cruising grounds on the planet. Coastal castles, secluded coves, inviting culture.

To GET ON THE LIST for more info:

Jody@LatsAtts.com

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Latitudes & Attitudes 153 4/29/19 1:51 PM

The 50th Anniversary

The World’s Largest The Facts of the Show 2,368,060 sq. ft.

250,000 attendees 2,000 exhibitors Over 100 countries

It all started when boot Show Director Petros Michelidakis asked us if we’d come and cover the 50th Anniversary of boot, the World’s Largest Boat show held in Dusseldorf, Germany every year. He didn’t have to ask twice. A couple years ago he’d invited me to go, and ever since I did, my wife Jody has been on me to go back.

It took us about 20 hours of travel time to get there from California, but as soon as we arrived we were in “show mode,” energized by the atmosphere in the exhibition halls.

This nine-day event hosts visitors from all over the world, and we owe the fact that we were there to one of our sponsors, NV Charts.

We are the only magazine this Germany-based company advertises with in the U.S. So, they helped us with a place to stash our gear, and to get a cold drink and relax during a show that could be exhausting without a home base.

Other than the fact that we probably hung out PHOTOS

FROM

154 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 154-156 BOOT Dusseldorf - editedbyKatie 2

THE

EARLY YEARS

there a little too much, they always made us feel right at home!

The first boot Dusseldorf took place at the old exhibition grounds on Fischerstrasse in 1969, and it has grown ever since! At that time they had a total of 116 direct exhibitors, seven of which were international, and almost 34,000 visitors.

In 1980, boot welcomed its strongest employee: the 84-tonne “Big Willie” that lifts yachts up to a total weight of 100 tons out of the Rhine and brings them into the show.

In 1987, boot had 100,000 visitors at the exhibition on one day for the first time. The show just kept growing!

The year 1994 was an eventful year for boot: it celebrated its 25th birthday and Monaco, their partner country, arranged a royal visit from Prince Albert. As a gift for the exhibition, Prince Rainier presented an 18th-century anchor, which adorns the tank between Halls 1 and 4 still today.

AT

BOOT

,

AS

IT

GREW

TO

BECOME

THE

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y

t

of boot Dusseldorf

Boat Show

By the Numbers Largest Boat Displayed 135 feet Total Aisle length 10.5 miles Over the years the show grew, and grew, and grew some more! On this, the 50th Anniversary, they had an estimated 250,000 people from over 100 countries!

The location for boot is at the Messe Center. The place is amazing. It has over twomillion square feet of floor space. If you were to walk down every aisle you would be walking about 10.5 miles!

And the show doesn’t just celebrate boats.

It celebrates everything water-related. From mega-yachts over 100 feet long (yes, they are indoors, in the mega yacht building!) to power cruisers, all boats are represented. There are three buildings dedicated to sailboats alone!

The displays are also pretty amazing.

Boats are “floating” in a sea of glass beads, or actually in the water, in an indoor booth!

And that’s not all. They have a full-sized wave machine that allows for world-class surfers to show their talents!

LARGEST

BOAT

SHOW

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IN

THE

WORLD

!

Latitudes & Attitudes 155 4/26/19 1:00 PM

Our home away from home, the NV Chart Booth

How about a 627-horsepower outboard?

Inside the Messe Center, huge buildings house these beautiful country streams for people to paddle canoes and kayaks through wooded areas. Yes, in the building!

Transportation to and from the show is easy for just about everyone who attends. It is near downtown Düsseldorf, but it has it’s own train station! People from all over Europe can ride the train right into the Messe Center!

But it’s more than that. It has dozens of good eateries, with bars located all over the center so it’s easy to grab a beer. It is, after all, Germany, where beer is the national drink!

And accessories? Hundreds of manufacturers and distributors with goodies for boats from all over the world!

But the show is about boats, and there are more boats on display than any show I have ever seen. Small boats, large boats, sailboats, power boats, mega-yachts, and dinghies. The place is jammed with every type of boat you can imagine, and a few you couldn’t imagine!

On the last Saturday evening of the show there was a huge press conference, with press from all over the world on hand, as Prince Albert of Monaco came to a special reception to announce what’s been going on with his Blue Ocean Foundation. It was a “show party” that put our “Cruiser’s Parties” at the U.S. boat shows to shame!

So if you want to see what a boat show can be at its finest, take a little trip to Düsseldorf, Germany next January. It’s worth the trip. Every real boater should see this show at least The Messe Center once in their life.

Just one of the 19 halls at the Messe Center

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Latitudes & Attitudes 157 4/26/19 2:42 PM

Pacific Sail & Power Boat Show Cruisers’ Party 2019

O The pizza crew The Eric Stone Band with (L to R) Gary Haas, Steve Hall, and Eric Stone

158 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 158-159 Richmond Party - editedbyKatie.indd 2

nce again an estimated 350 to 400 cruisers from all over the West Coast gathered in Richmond, California for the Latitudes & Attitudes Cruisers’ Party.

For over 20 years this event has drawn cruisers and people from the industry for an evening of camaraderie, music, and fun.

With the Eric Stone Band on stage, complete with Eric on vocals, Gary Haas on the drums and, for the first time in seven years, Steve Hall on the lead guitar, the place was jumping!

As there was a threat of rain we’d brought in a large tent for the event, but when Saturday evening came around it was clear and in the 60s.

Once again a raffle was held with the proceeds going to the Educational Tall Ship Foundation to help with their creation of a 130-foot Brigantine being completed in Sausalito. The winning ticket got a Sunsail Charter in the Caribbean, while the runner up won a Syonic color, night-vision camera. There were plenty of other prizes as well donated by the marine industry and exhibitors.

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Captain Alan Olson, CEO of the Educational Tall Ship Foundation

Editor Sue overseeing the wine distribution

Once again we have to thank the people who helped this all come together. Our sponsors for this event were SeaTech Systems, Forespar, Hamilton Ferris, Handcraft Mattress, Sunsail, Pyrate Radio, Kanberra Gel, Mack Sails, Sun Powered Yachts, The Educational Tall Ship Foundation, and the people of the Pacific Sail & Power Boat Show.

The Richmond event has become one of the better boat shows in the U.S. and was very well attended this year!

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Ticket-puller Reme (L) and Dan from Syonics (R) congratulate the winner of the night vision unit

The Sunsail Charter winners

Latitudes & Attitudes 159 4/26/19 9:57 AM

I Found It At

The Boat Show Beta Marine Cruiser-Friendly Replacement Engines

Over the years, Beta Marine has built its reputation by supplying some of the best designed marine engines around. They have addressed all ot the “little things.”

Their engines are all built on the latest Kubota engine blocks. Their service parts are not only readily available, they are reasonably priced.

The engines are all mechanical-injection engines without a computer in sight. This means that they can be serviced by any competent mechanic or even the boat owner. And, they are available from 14 to 99 horsepower.

Beta works with the boat owner (or boatyard) to find out what the proper needs are and then work with propeller suppliers to get the best performance and economy.

As a matter of fact, the majority of the Lats&Atts staff live on boats that are running Beta replacement engines. All the little things have been set up for easy maintenance, like the oil filters, dip-stick placement, and other small things that set these motors far apart from the norm.

If you’re thinking of re-powering your cruising vessel, you can find all the information you will need at their website. The staff is wellversed in every type of engine replacement.

Go to www.betamarinenc.com and tell ‘em we sent ya!

Beta 30

Beta 50

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4/26/19 9:59 AM

Aumaris Jewelery Custom-Designed Nautical Jewlery Made to Order

Each link of this sold-gold anchor chain is created individually.

The original design for this anchorchain was created by scaling down a link of commercial cable anchor chain as used on commercial shipping, and creating this elegant solid-gold replica. The chain is available in numerous sizes and can be made into a bracelet, necklace, or even anklet.

Each link of the chain is created individually, then soldered and polished until it is a true work of art.

These chains have half-inch links and are available in silver, 14k, 18k gold.

Bracelets are 7, 8, and 9 inches long.

Necklace strands come in 18, 20, 22, or 24 inches, as well as custom sizes by the inch.

Bracelet sizes for women are usually 6.5 or 7 inches. Men usually wear 8, 9, or 10 inches. Necklace sizes for women are 16 and 18 inches, and for men 20, 22, and 24 inches.

Closure is a true shackle! For more info, check them out at www.aumaris.com.

First a lost-wax casting is made for each link. Then the link is cast, each link added to the chain, then closed and soldered, and finally polished to perfection. The end result is a beautiful work of art!

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Latitudes & Attitudes 161 4/26/19 9:59 AM

SailTimer Wind Instrument Look, Ma! No Wires! Air-links to NMEA!

Masthead wind instruments use no wires to run. It’s Plug and Play simplicity.

The Sailtimer App showing wind speed and direction SailTimer made the first masthead anemometer that could transmit directly to smartphones. It is wireless and solarpowered, so no wires to install down the mast. It uses a unique wind cup design where the cups turn into propellers when sailing heeled over, allowing them to maintain equal accuracy.

The new SailTimer Wind Instrument uses the replaceable battery as a balance inside the nose cone, with a carbon-fiber pointer arm to further reduce weight.

There is an accessory called the Air Link that receives the Bluetooth transmissions and wires into NMEA

electronics. When paired with the free SailTimer tacking app, sailors can get a quick and easy display of their optimal tacks.

When used with a Bluetooth speaker, you can put your phone away so it’s safe and dry, and simply hear when wind speed, wind angle, or boat speed change by more than set amounts. This preserves battery power, reduces heat in your phone or tablet with the screen off, and keeps your hands and eyes free for sailing.

For more info you can go to their website: www.sailtimerwind.com.

Simple battery replacement

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4/26/19 9:59 AM

SiOnyx Aurora

At Last! Color Night Vision That’s Affordable

Below shows the difference between other popular cameras and the Aurora.

The new Aurora fullcolor night-vision monocular The SiOnyx Aurora is the World’s first water-resistant Day/Night Camera. It's the only hi-definition, color action-camera with true day and night imaging.

Made for boaters and first responders, this camera is ideal for boating, nature watching, hunting, and other night-vision activities. Color night vision gives you the power to capture all the excitement when other cameras can’t. It also delivers high-quality daytime color recordings.

Use your mobile device to control your Aurora remotely, to view what your camera is seeing, and easily share captured moments with friends and family.

It captures images using ultra low-light night vision, even with little to no moonlight or starlight. And it’s capable of doing this using either color or monochrome lens.

It shoots video and connects to your smart devices using WiFi or USB 2.0 and uses a standard Micro SD 4-32GB memory card.

It is water-resistant and features a rechargable Lithium-ion Battery Oh yeah, and it is IOS and Android compatable. This is something we feel every boat should have on board; for safety and to capture fun events at night. For more info you can go to www.sionyx.com.

Every sailor knows not to enter an unknown anchorage after dark if it’s possible to enter during daylight.

But now you can feel perfectly safe entering a harbor at twilight, with these full-color night-vision optics!

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Latitudes & Attitudes 163 4/26/19 9:59 AM

Scrubbis Hull Cleaning Kit Easy-to-Use System Saves Time and Money

The cleaning brush comes with handle tenders The new Davis Scrubbis Underwater Hull Cleaning Kit from Davis Instruments allows a boat owner to easily remove algae, marine life, and waterline scum from almost any vessel while standing on the dock or deck, or even seated in a dinghy. It’s a marine product that actually pays its owner back.

The magic of the Davis Scrubbis system is its unique buoyant cleaning head. Once pushed down the side of the hull, its 4.4 pounds of flotation lifts it back up. Since it doesn’t need undue pressure or rapid back-and-forth motion, it’s not a backbreaking chore.

Designed for fresh or saltwater, the 5-inch diameter by 16-inch wide cleaning head is made of a durable foam-like material,

so it won’t remove toxic and expensive antifouling paint. Soft cleaning fins take care of most accumulation. For stubborn areas, the head can be flipped to reveal a stiffer fin.

With its 43-inch to 86-inch telescoping aluminum handle, and 43-inch extension tube added, Davis Scrubbis has an impressive 12-foot reach to easily clean most remote areas. An accessory product called Waterline Brush features soft cleaning fins on one side and a replaceable scrubbing pad on the other for cleaning brown waterline stains that accumulate just above the waterline on most boats.

This new unit is from the folks at Davis Instruments, and if you’d like more info, go to www.davisinstruments.com.

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The Beer Gardens was the perfect place for the party

S Eric Stone with guitarist Eric Ellis rocked the evening

Our volunteer ticket sellers enjoying a perfect evening!

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The lucky winners of the Sunsail BVI Charter

aturday night at 6:30 p.m. about 250 cruisers gathered to celebrate the cruising lifestyle with many of the exhibitors at the show. There were piles of half-pound burgers, cheeseburgers, and pressed-chicken or veggie sandwiches, along with chips, and, of course, plenty of free beer!

The event was broadcaste live on Pyrate Radio, hosted by popular disc-jockey Barbarossa and Latitudes & Attitudes founder, Bob Bitchin.

Isabella Stefania opened the show. Then Eric Stone took the stage with guitarist Eric Ellis, who plays in a great local ZZ Top cover band.

There was raffle for the grand prize, a weeklong charter in the BVI from the folks at Sunsail, one of our original partners in these cruising parties from over 20 years ago!

It was a perfect evening in Miami, with temperatures in the low 80’s and the sky clear and full of stars.

The party was a big success, and we look forward to doing it again next year!

It is not that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better. - Sir Francis Drake

Miami International Boat Show Cruisers’ Party 2019

The food at this year’s event was the best ever!

Latitudes & Attitudes 165 4/26/19 10:05 AM

Book Review

by Capt. Jim Cash

Sailing to the Edge of Time The Promise, the Challenges, and the Freedom of Ocean Voyaging

By John Kretschmer

When asked to review John Kretschmer’s Everyone latest book, I was delighted, having immensely that truly loves their enjoyed At the Mercy of the Sea. Though John lives knows how has experienced far more sea miles than I, we short it can be, and have sailed a lot of the same waters, and ducked John knows it all into many of the same harbors, so reading his too well, “Time books is a little like déjà vu on paper for me. I’ve is the currency often heard and pass on to others the phrase, of our life—how “Every day on the ocean adds a day to your life.” we spend it defines our existence.”

And, if that is true, John will live forever. The This is the theme throughout the book which is line in the press release for this book, “To live crammed with vignettes of sailing adventures, adventurously is to live fully,” is a mantra that mostly on his Kaufman 47-foot cutter Quetzal (I could apply to all those who go to sea for work had to look that up: it’s a beautiful tropical bird) or pleasure, and John has been lucky enough to from the Mediterranean to the high latitudes of be able to combine the two and thus thoroughly Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, north; Patagonia and love his life. Imagine spending all your time on Cape Horn south. a cruising vacation and being paid for it. On a This book is rich with quotes from a passage of 15-20 days without cornucopia of sailing authors phones or 24-hour news updates, such as Ulysses, Joseph Conrad, John says “we were not dropping Henry Dana, James Fenimore “Unhappiness comes out for a few weeks, we were Cooper, Bernard Moitessier, with the inability to fully dropping in.”

Jimmy Cornell, Sebastian Junger, occupy the present” The book starts in his and Sterling Hayden. He also early sailing days on Gigi, his quotes Farley Mowat when Contessa 32’ that he sailed referencing Newfoundland, and around Cape Horn (described in his book Cape Harold Gatty and Edward Huth about learning to Horn to Starboard). He truly loved the boat and navigate the sea without modern electronics and declares that it saved his life when he was washed satellites, and many more ocean adventurers. overboard on that passage. As he clung to life In a section discussing the oft-asked tethered to the boat while thrashing under the question about the “perfect boat,” John simply waves pounding his tiny sloop, he defines it: says “She [it] needs to be willing and able to sail “A lifetime to come hung in the balance.” John anywhere I want to go,” “A boat that affords us the modestly portrays his life of sailing, advising us to ability to be self-reliant; the privilege that we must “Remember that experience is only as valuable as accept responsibility for our actions, which is the your last bad decision.” ultimate freedom.”

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adventure business is “Never lost, hard to find.”

JET (“Just Enough Technology”) is John’s Ocean passages, he explains, are an exercise philosophy, assenting that today’s modern chart in management, “You manage provisions, water, plotters are nice and convenient, but putting fuel, and most important your that dot on a paper chart at psyche.” Likewise, “Mitigating least once a day is more than risks before a voyage and just nostalgic, it can be a life “Mitigating risks before a managing them along the saver, and John believes the voyage and managing them way is the core element of right thing to do. He cites the along the way is the core seamanship, of being a sailor.” tragedy off the Mexican coast This enjoyable book during the Newport Beach to element of seamanship, of concludes with an Appendix, Ensenada, Mexico race a few being a sailor.” aptly titled Wrinkles (as did years ago where a 37-foot S.T.S. Lecky’s renowned 1884 Hunter was torn apart on the handbook “Wrinkles in Practical Navigation”) rocks of the North Coronado Island, killing all aboard, when the chart plotter and auto pilot were wherein John expertly discusses Downwind Sailing Comfort; Security Concerns; Vessel linked, and the person on watch fell asleep. If Awareness-The Walkabout; and PFDs, Safety the course line had previously been plotted on a Harnesses, and Jacklines. paper chart, it would have never happened, and We sailors will all benefit from John’s refers to it as “death by GPS.” bountiful knowledge and experiences which On John’s sailing philosophy, we read are the core of this book. But, his reminders from Alan Watts, “Unhappiness comes with the about the value of life, and the ways that he inability to fully occupy the present,” as John shows us our time should be treasured and explains that ocean sailors are imprisoned in the respected, are distinctive tokens all his readers present and need to embrace those conditions will receive. or be miserable. The motto for his sailing

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Latitudes & Attitudes 167 5/1/19 12:48 PM

1984 72’ Trade Rover - $129,000 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

1985 48’ Sloop - $98,000 Brent Anderson - 651.528.4198

1993 44’ Beneteau - $89,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

2001 42’ Catalina - $119,900 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288

1979 42’ Pearson - $66,500 Ryan Daniels - 904.580.0559

1981 42’ Passport - $77,000 Brad Peterson - 305.481.1512

2003 42’ Hunter - $139,000 Lars Bergstrom - 910.899.7941

1995 40’ Beneteau - $99,900 Brent Anderson - 651.528.4198

1971 40’ Hinckley - $84,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

1995 36’ Bristol - $59,750 Mark Welsh - 410.645.0007

2008 34’ Gemini - $130,000 Wayne Smith - 516.445.1932

2001 34’ Bavaria - $55,900 Mark Welsh - 410.645.0007

To see more details about these and all other yachts around the globe, please visit our website at

www.curtisstokes.net 168 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 168-169 Curtis Stokes.indd 2

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Worldwide Yacht Sales Yacht Charters New Yacht Construction

1986 49’ DeFever - $255,000 Lars Bergstrom - 910.899.7941

2001 47’ Great Harbour - $498,000 Joe and Punk Pica - 252.631.1097

2001 45’ Elling - $291,500 Tom Russell - 904.382.9610

1982 44’ DeFever - $139,500 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

2002 44’ Endeavour - $239,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

2008 42’ Nordic Tug - $445,000 Mark Welsh - 410.645.0007

2005 42’ Nordic Tug - $414,500 Steve Horinek - 239.887.0898

2005 41’ American Tug - $400,000 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

2001 40’ Pacific Trawler - $200,000 Jim Davis - 386.871.4959

1998 36’ Monk - $155,000 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

2001 35’ Nordhavn - $280,000 Michael Martin - 440.781.8201

1984 30’ Sundowner Tug - $59,900 Charity Garey - 423.580.4330

1.855.266.5676 | 954.684.0218 | info@curtisstokes.net w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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2015 Passport 545 Aft Cockpit “Pathfinder” CRUISING WORLD’S 2016 Boat of the Year and Best Full Size Cruiser over 50 feet, this 2015 Passport Vista 545 Aft Cockpit features a reverse walk up transom and a raised deck house. A thoroughly modern and stylish yacht offers an abundance of room and comfort yet keeps a sleek, low profile. Pathfinder has two large staterooms each with their own head and separate shower. There is also a large walk-in utility room with a 7 foot long work bench, numerous lockers and a washer/dryer. A breath taking, better than new turnkey yacht, Just step on board and sail away! Asking $985,000

For more information on these and other previously owned yachts, please contact us: ANNAPOLIS: Yacht Haven, 326 First Street, Ste. 404, Annapolis, MD 21403

410-263-0008 www.passportyachts.com 172 Latitudes & Attitudes PassportYts_spread_070367_CRW0419P.indd 1 pg 172-173 Passport Broker ad.indd 2

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Passp

2009 PASSPORT CLASSIC 470 CENTER COCKPIT

The perfect balance between performance and comfort. Fully equipped with double walk through, two stateroom two head layout. Ready for your next offshore adventure. If you think that a new yacht of the very highest quality and one that can be enjoyed for a lifetime is in your future, please don’t hesitate to call us. Asking $515,000.

2015 PASSPORT 545 AC 2016 Boat of the Year, this skillfully constructed custom yacht is ready to step on board and sail away in comfort and style. Asking $985,000

2008 PASSPORT 470 CC Fully equipped for cruising. Excellent condition with unique double walk thru, 3 stateroom layout and shoal draft. Asking $524,500

2004 PASSPORT 470 CC Very well equipped with arch, wind gen and solar panels. Refit in 2016/2017.

Asking $339,000

2008 PASSPORT 470 CC The perfect balance between performance and comfort and an impressive list of equipment and gear.

Asking $539,900

1989 PASSPORT 41 AC Dark blue hull with unique two stateroom two enclosed head arrangement. Well equipped.

Asking $169,000

CLASSIC PASSPORT 40 AC Beautiful example of the legendary Robert Perry cruising yacht. Several to choose from.

2006 PASSPORT 470 CC Gorgeous yacht, fully equipped and easily handled by two. Asking $515,000

1995 BABA 40 AC Iconic cruising boat sleeps 6 with a comfortable interior, versatile sail plan and sea kindly hull shape.

A great live aboard or globetrotter. Owners spent generously updating her. Asking $127,000.

GOZZARD 36 and 37 AC Well cared for and well equipped these classic yachts are perfect for the cruising couple. Several available from $189,000 to $215,000.

1996 Gozzard 44 AC Built and equipped for safe and comfortable blue water sailing for a cruising couple. Asking $264,000

2000 TARTAN 4600 Very well maintained aft cockpit Tartan 4600 with shoal draft. Has been maintained and upgraded from the time she was new. Asking $317,900

1986 PASSPORT 37 AC Before going cruising the current owners did some extensive work in 2016 and 2017. Asking $89,000

For more information on these and other previously owned yachts, please contact us: ANNAPOLIS: Yacht Haven, 326 First Street, Ste. 404, Annapolis, MD 21403

410-263-0008 www.passportyachts.com w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

2:43 PM

PassportYts_spread_070788_CRW0519P.indd 1 pg 172-173 Passport Broker ad.indd 3

Latitudes & Attitudes 173 3/21/19 9:33 AM 5/1/19 5:14 PM

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Latitudes & Attitudes 177 5/1/19 10:12 AM

MasseyYacht-Ad Full.pdf

1

4/25/19

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Dream Yacht Sales offers previously owned boats from our fleet worldwide that have been meticulously maintained by our experts. To browse additional yachts please visit our website: www.usedyachtsforsale.com

2011 Dufour 405

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3 cabins/2 heads Top level comfort and real sailing performance 119,000 EUR Located in Tortola

3 cabins/2 heads Ready for distant cruising in comfort

2013 Lagoon 380

2013 Lagoon 380

2013 Lagoon 400 S2

115,000 EUR Located in Grenada

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4 cabins/2 heads

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4 cabins/2 heads Well equipped with Gen + Air

240,000 USD Located in Antigua

198,000 EUR Located in Grenada

349,900 USD Located in the Bahamas

2009 Lipari 41

2013 Lagoon 450

2009 Salina 48

4 cabins/2 heads Excellent panoramic visibility

4 cabins/4 heads Fully equipped for cruising

4 double cabins/4 heads Watermaker and solar panels

190,000 EUR Located in Belize

425,000 USD Located in the Bahamas

330,000 EUR Located in Martinique

www.usedyachtsforsale.com DYSBrokerage03.05.indd 1 pg 180 Dream Yacht Broker ad.indd 1

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The Leader in Sales for Pre-Owned Island Packet Yachts - Visit Us at UsedIslandPackets.com What Our Customers Are Saying ...

2003 Navigator Rival 57’ St. Petersburg, FL $319,000

2000 Tayana CC Cutter 48’

1983 Mikado Custom 56’

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“We made an easy purchase of our Island Packet 35 two years ago with Gary Monnell at Whiteaker Yacht Sales. Gary, Preston, and the entire Whiteaker crew were there to assist us in every detail.

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2011 J Boats 108 35’

2002 Island Packet 380

2004 Island Packet 370

2004 Island Packet 370

1982 Hans Christian 43’

1996 Island Packet 40

1987 Tayana 52’

Punta Gorda, FL $187,900

Punta Gorda, FL $184,900

Naples, FL $198,000

Bradenton, FL $179,000

Pametto, FL $179,000

2001 Island Packet 380 Palmetto, FL $166,000

Cape Coral, FL $165,900

Punta Gorda, FL $164,900

1994 Island Packet 40

1983 Vagabond Ketch 42’

1992 Island Packet 44 Palmetto, FL $150,000

Brunswick, GA $139,900

1988 Island Packet 38

1989 Pacific Seacraft 37’

1986 Hans Christian 38’

2005 Pacific Seacraft 31’

1993 Island Packet 35

1999 Island Packet 380

Palmetto, FL $129,900

1988 Island Packet 38

Jacksonville Beach, FL $99,900

1989 Island Packet 38 Stuart, FL 84,500

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pg 181 Whiteacker ad.indd 1

Indiantown, FL $119,000

Ft. Pierce, FL $159,000

Jacksonville, FL $119,000

Stuart, FL $115,000

2007 Catalina 38’

Palmetto, FL $99,900

Gulfport, FL $94,900

Palmetto, FL $92,500

Ft. Lauderdale, FL $88,500

1986 Island Packet 38

1989 Island Packet 35

2006 Hunter 36’

2004 Catalina MkII 34’

1999 Catalina MkII 36’

1982 Pacific Seacraft 37’

1994 Tartan 35’

Venice, FL $79,500

2006 Catalina 35’

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Punta Gorda, FL $66,900

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Latitudes & Attitudes 183 4/26/19 4:03 PM

184 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 184 L&A Store Ad.indd 1

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Maximum full keel protection for your fiberglass, composite or aluminum tender. Serious shallow water hull protection. Be “Adventure Ready” in your dinghy while remotely cruising the islands. Exclusive distributor of cut-to-length polymer Megaware KeelGuard® – purchase only the lengths you need for your tender (or other projects). Lifetime warranty, Made in the USA!

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Latitudes & Attitudes 187 5/1/19 10:18 AM

Audio Book

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Latitudes & Attitudes 189 5/1/19 10:18 AM

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Across 1 Large headsails 5 6 67 Dusk time Across 8 West coast city 8 1 Large headsails 9 Yes from a sailor 6 Dusk11time 10 It rhymes with attitudes 8 West coast city 12 Have some fish and chips, say 12 9 Yes from a 13 sailor Sand gets between them 10 It rhymes with attitudes 14 Johnny Depp role 12 Have some 16 fishRelating and chips, say world to the whole 18 Ridingthem the waves 13 Sand gets between 18 20 role Chinese cooking pot 14 Johnny Depp 21 or lemon?

21 16 Relating to theGator whole world 22 Nutritional inits.

18 25 Riding the 26 waves 24 Make a knot 20 Chinese cooking pot 25 Marina sights 28 21 Gator or lemon?

27 Chicago's state 32 33 22 Nutritional inits.

28 ___ favor (please, in Spanish) 24 Make a knot29 It connects two large areas of a sea 31 Deep and narrow body of water 25 Marina sights 34 Hot ___ 27 Chicago's state 35 Notable period 28 ___ favor (please, in Spanish) 36 They stabilize masts 29 It connects two large areas of a sea 37 Rowing equipment

Across 31 1 Large headsails 34 6 Dusk time 35 8 West coast city 36 9 Yes from a sailor 37 10 It rhymes with attitudes 12 Have some fish and chips, say 13 Sand gets between them 14 Johnny Depp role 16 Relating to the whole world 18 Riding the waves 20 Chinese cooking pot 21 Gator or lemon?

22 Nutritional inits.

24 Make a knot 25 Marina sights 27 Chicago's state 28 ___ favor (please, in Spanish) 29 It connects two large areas of a sea 31 Deep and narrow body of water 34 Hot ___ 35 Notable period 36 They stabilize masts 37 Rowing equipment

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Deep and narrow body of water Down Hot ___ 1 Sailor's song Notable period 2 Titanic's undoing They stabilize masts 3 Can. province with a wild Atlantic coastline, abbr.

Rowing equipment 4 5 6 7 11 15 17 18 19 21 23 26 28 30 31 32 33

Down 1 Sailor's song 2 Titanic's undoing Down Can. province with a wild 1 3 Sailor's song abbr.

2 4 Titanic's undoing Gull that breeds on coasta 3 5 Can. province with a Patio furniture material 6 abbr.

S O S, e.g.

4 7 Gull that breeds on c Tops of masts 511 Patio Wordsfurniture before fishing and mater digging 615 SClam O S, e.g. times, 2 wor Prepare, water for tea 717 Tops ofasmasts 18 Trick out 11 Words before fishing 19 Wave tops 15 Clam digging times, 21 On the boat and ready for 1723 Prepare, asisland water for West Indian 1826 Trick Make aout knot 1928 Wave Acidity tops factor ___ the at sea, awayand fromread the 2130 On boat Head gear 2331 West Indian island Footballagroup, 2632 Make knot for short 33 ___ Palmas

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Latitudes & Attitudes 191 5/1/19 10:18 AM

Marine Advertisers

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Kanberra Gel 121 Keenan Filters 48 Key Lime Sailing 111 Kiwi Grip PYI 119 L&A boot Trip Ad 39 L&A Subscription Ad 82-83 L&A TV DVDs 53 Lats&Atts Store 184 Life Aboard Book Ad 167 Little Yacht Sales 183 M&B Ship’s Canvas 113 Mack Sails 27 Mack Yacht Services 31 Mantus Anchors 123 MarTek Davits 135 Massey Yachts 178-179 Mystic Knotwork 119 New England Ropes 109 Newport Int’l Boat Show 157 Next Generation Systems 135 102 NV Charts OCENS 117 Offshore Sailing Schools 15 Outbound Yachts 66-67 Pacific NW Boater 133 Passport Yachts 12-13 Polyplanar 111 Port Ludlow Marina 127 Pure Water by Forespar 112 PYI 126 Rainman 33 Ronstant 10 S&J Yachts 174-175 Sailcare 104 Sailrite 196 Sailtime 182 San Juan Sailing 112 99 Seafrost SeaTech Systems 137 Shade Tree Fabric Shelters 121 Share The Sail - Croatia 153 SiOnyx 127 South Coast Yachts 177

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Annapolis SailYard 176 Cape Royal 101 Catalina Yachts 18 ComPac Yachts 35 Curtis Stokes 168-169 Dream Yacht Sales 180 Eastern Yacht Sales 170-171 Elan Yachts 24-25 H&H Yachts 9 Hylas Yachts 183 183 Little Yacht Sales Massey Yachts 178-179 66-67 Outbound Yachts S&J Yachts 174-175 Sailtime 182 South Coast Yachts 177 Wagner Stevens 172-173 Whitaker Yacht Sales 181 Bosun’s Bag Format Ads

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Advertisers: You can reach the most active segment of the boating community—in print or onLine.

Latitudes & Attitudes - Winter - Spring - Summer & Fall Issues Next Issue: Summer 2019 - Ad Insertions by 7/22/19 - Art Due 7/26/19 - On Sale 9/3/19 www.LatsAtts.com Ads@LatsAtts.com 510-900-3616 #105

192 Latitudes & Attitudes

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In New York someone is stabbed every 52 seconds. Sounds like maybe he should move elswhere??

These Are the Smartest Advertisers in the Marine Industry!

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Latitudes & Attitudes 193 4/26/19 10:14 AM

Boat People

Meet some folks who have managed to make a lifestyle out of most people’s dreams. Boat people can be found on oceans and seas scattered around the globe. They can be spotted easily. They are the ones who have a glazed look in their eyes as they scan the horizons. Here are a few we’ve seen. Have you seen any lately? If so, email a photo and information to: Submissions@LatsAtts.com

Murat Albayrak is our biggest fan in Turkey. When we bumped into him at the Dusseldorf Boat Show he told us he sails a Hanse 455 out of Istanbul after learning how to sail in Berkeley, CA. He’s been reading our stuff for almost 20 years now!

This is Mark Cosens. Yes, he looks a little crazy here. He must be, since he volunteered to help us at the Toronto Boat Show. He lives in St. Thomas, Ontario with his wife and son, and they plan on cruising whenever they get the chance.

Brittany Foreman says she sails a lot in the British Virgin Islands and Tortola. She and her husband sail on an Oceanis 43. She has an ROI Coastal Skipper license, and they both are working on their Offshore Skippers license now.

Kimber Hamilton is a real sailor!

She worked in the BVI selling boats, has worked with Sea Shepherds, ran a catamaran out of San Diego, and has managed to generally spend the vast majority of her life having fun, surfing, and sailing.

This is Remi sailing aboard Las Lunas in San Francisco Bay. She was our ticket-puller at the Pacific Boat Show in Richmond, CA last year. She did a pretty good job, so we figured if she shows up again this year, we’ll let her do it again!

Norm Plotkin grew up sailing on his dad’s Creekmore 30 in South Florida. He has sailed out of Bellingham, WA to Desolation Sound, and has been an avid sailor all of his life. He is also a member of the Cruising Outpost Founders Circle! Thanks Norm!

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pg 195 AB Inflatables ad.indd 1

Latitudes & Attitudes 195 4/26/19 3:25 PM

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