Spring 2013 - Issue #2
U.S. & Canada $6.99
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Cruising Outpost Feature Stories Page 46 Indonesia Cruising Rally This is a great way to visit these beautiful cruising grounds. By Gwen Hamlin
Page 130 Inside Marine Binocs We all need them on our boats, but what do we look for?. By Bill Cook
Feature: Westsail 32 Page 54 See why this was THE cruising boat of the ‘60s, and still is today!. By Charles Scott
Page 149 Boot Key Harbor Our staffer tells us why life there is so good for cruisers. By Steve Hall
Lost Soul Page 62 Can we save it? We don’t know, but we gotta try! By Bob Bitchin Page 64 Cruising the BVIs See what 40-50 Cruising Outpost readers can get into when they really try. By The Staff
Cruising Cuba Page 78 See where the cruising is good, and not so good, but always interesting. By Pat & Addison Chan Getting Looped Page 99 Circumnavigating the Eastern US can be a very fun voyage! By Captain James Cash
Cover: By Mark Roozendaal of his wife Deanna. Cover design by Richard Marker.
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This Page: Halfway across the Pacific heading to Hawaii from Cabo San Lucas. Photo by Gene LaPorte
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Editor at Large Sue Morgan
sue@cruisingoutpost.com
Large Editor Bob Bitchin
bob@cruisingoutpost.com
President Allan Saunders al@cruisingoutpost.com
Cruising Outpost 909 Marina Village Prkwy Suite 351 Alameda, CA 94501 Phone 510 900-3616 info@cruisingoutpost.com
Head Wench In Charge Heidi Benson
heidi@cruisingoutpost.com
Contributor Zuzana Prochazka
zuzana@cruisingoutpost.com
Life Aboard Queen Mother Robin Stout robin@cruisingoutpost.com
Staff Infection Tania Aebi Gwen Hamlin People Who Helped Us Create This Issue
Bill Cook Brandon Clifford Capt. Michael L. Martel Capt. Wayne Canning, Capt. James Cash Charles Scott Gwen Hamlin Jan S. Irons Jay, S/V Seaforever John Simpson Julia Hathaway Lanea Riley Mike Martell Morgan Stinemetz Pat & Addison Chan Rick Johnson Steve Hall Tasha Hacker Todd Duff Wade Rogers People Who Didn’t Help Us At All
Batman Tristan Jones Alfred E. Neuman Bill Gates Thor (Jody’s input) Taylor Swift (Bob’s input)
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Don’t worry. It only seems kinky the first time.
12 Spring 2013
Art Guru Richard Marker
rich@cruisingoutpost.com
WebMaster Steve “Sailing Guitarist” Hall steve@cruisingoutpost.com
Mobile Media Ray Fosdick
ray@cruisingoutpost.com
Marketing & Video Darren O’Brien
darren@cruisingoutpost.com
Boat Show Queen Jody “Bitchin” Lipkin
jody@cruisingoutpost.com
Boat Show Manager Dave Dudgeon
dave@cruisingoutpost.com
Boat Show Slaves Jeff & Marie Inshaw
jeff@cruisingoutpost.com marie@cruisingoutpost.com
Media & Video Princess Tabitha “Bitchin” Lipkin
------------------------------Advertising Goddess Lisa O’Brien
lisa@cruisingoutpost.com
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It is the set of the sails, not the direction of the wind, that determines which way we will go” - Jim Rohn
Just Bitchin One of the most exciting times I can remember was a couple days out of Mopilia, sailing from French Polynesia to the northern Cook Islands. I was on watch and it was pitch black. The winds were blowing at about 25-30 knots on our beam, which was a pretty good point of sail for Lost Soul. Her 42 tons felt secure as we were constantly being bashed by 10-12 foot swells. Occasionally we’d drop into a “valley” and get a “slapper.” A slapper is a wave that is about to crest just as it slams against your hull, throwing spray over the whole boat. It wasn’t the wind or seas that made this so exciting. As I stood behind our ship’s wheel I was enjoying the adventure of sailing through new waters. I’d checked the chart before coming on watch and saw that there was a mostly submerged reef “out there” somewhere. Manuae was the only thing we had to worry about between Mopilia and Suverov Island, which was our destination. I’d planned to pass this mostly submerged atoll slightly after dawn so we could keep a sharp eye out. The charts we were using were from a survey in the mid-1800s, (?) so it could be as much as five miles off its reported position, or so it said on the chart we were using. The problem I had was we were going a lot faster than I’d planned on. One thing you learn when cruising: if you have wind, use it. It could die at any time. And so, instead of passing said reef in the daylight, we were fast approaching it at 8-9 knots. Okay, being
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a prudent mariner, I had planned on passing five miles to the south of said reef. At 4:30 in the morning it was dark. Very dark. No moon, overcast skies, and occasional swells were breaking over our 8-foot freeboard. I was snug behind our dodger, staying as dry as I could. There was this weird “ball lightning” flashing in the sky. No thunder, just bright flashes of light and a crackling sound that accompanied it. I remembered thinking my biggest fear was we’d get hit, so I deployed our lightning gear (a 10-foot piece of 3/8” chain vice-gripped to our rigging) just in case. I was looking forward when a ball of lightning filled the sky, and in the brief light from the flash I saw what looked like a 15-foot breaking wave about a quarter mile directly in front of us! I froze for a minute. Could I really have seen that? As if in answer to the question, another flash of light in the sky and sure enough, what seemed like just a few boat lengths in front to of me, I could see breaking surf on the reef. I slammed off the autopilot, swung Lost Soul hard to port and watched as the reef receded behind us in the dwindling lighting. I remember how my pulse quickened. I can still feel the chill that passed through me. I felt more alive at that moment than any I can recall! Staying safe in a harbor my be secure, but to experience adventure you have to cast off those dock lines and head out into the storm.
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Cruising Outpost News A Calm Sea Defined A condition characterized by the simultaneous disappearance of the wind and the last cold beverage.
All the news that fits Inside Cruising Outpost Why Other Mags Think We’re Nuts
by Bob Bitchin
I guess the first thing you will notice is that this issue is bigger than most magazines -196 pages. What sets CO apart from other magazines is that we are what most publishing companies think of as nuts, whackos, or crazy people. You see, most magazines try to get about a 70% advertising to 30% editorial content ratio. Check out the other mags and you’ll see that’s why they are so slim right now. The marine ad dollars kinda dried up after 2007. A lot of magazines shut down, or went to 80-90 pages. It made good business sense. When we started CO we decided that we were a reader supported rag as opposed to an ad supported rag. Our readers pay good money for CO, and we feel they should get their money’s worth. This issue we are at our “target percentage.” We are over 70% editorial content, and the 30% ads we have are all marine related. End of lesson #1
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ANTARES The Westsail 32 by Charles Scott
I’ve owned Antares, my Westsail 32, for 20 years. My heart still goes pit-a-pat every time I see her. That classic sheer, the ship-like bowsprit, and her rugged no-nonsense construction still give me a thrill. Modern designs may have eclipsed the Westsail’s sailing performance, but for sheer beauty, romance, and passion nothing stirs the wanderer’s heart like the graceful lines of a Westsail. Designer Bill Crealock modified the 32’ William Atkins “Eric” for Westsail and she further traces her heritage back to the sea-rescue vessels of Colin Archer, a Norwegian naval architect of the late 19th century. 54 Spring 2013 pg 54-59 Feature Boat-Antares.indd 2
During a 10-year period starting in the early1970’s, over 1,100 Westsail 32’s were built. Marketed with polished advertising and glossy brochures, the Westsail 32 was key in promoting the popularity of world cruising as a lifestyle. Her lines have inspired a generation of naval architects and many modern cruising boats trace their lineage back to her. With her massive tiller and aft hung rudder, her uncluttered decks, generous sail plan and heavy displacement, she is the very epitome of the rugged offshore cruising sailboat. I first saw Antares, abandoned and grime streaked, in a boatyard back lot. But even in neglect, her beauty Cruising 2/1/13 3:37 PM
shone bright. From that first moment the attraction has never waned. The Westsail was available in kit form and the previous owner had attempted to build her himself. Unfortunately, he couldn’t have constructed a birdhouse, let alone finish the intricate joinery of a yacht interior. Through a dozen Detroit, Michigan winters I lived aboard year-round. I tore out entire sections and carefully rebuilt her from stem to stern. In the dust and the mess I dreamed of distant islands and swaying palms as howling blizzards shook Antares in the long, black nights.
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One of my first improvements was to install a hatch in the saloon. Westsail interiors are dark and the clear overhead hatch brightened the cabin considerably. I converted the starboard sea berth into bookshelves and hanging locker space and widened the starboard settee. I rebuilt the galley and the chart table, installed a new engine, converted locker space opposite the head into a small office, built shelves and lockers on the port side, installed a new mast support post, built a fold-out saloon table, installed a Force 10 heater and propane stove, and gave her a new headliner. These were but a few of my countless improvements.
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Westsails are known for their heavy construction. One winter the temperature dropped to –24 F. Antares froze in solid, the marina bubblers overwhelmed by the cold. Her inch thick hull came through without a scratch. In the summers I cruised Antares throughout the Great Lakes. I worked on her for five years then took her to the Chesapeake, visiting New York City and Washington D.C. along the way. In Annapolis I replaced the standing rigging, then left her for the winter. I returned to a long list of projects before sailing her solo through stormy Gulf Stream seas to
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Bermuda. We returned back home to Michigan through New York and the Erie Barge Canal. I no longer live full-time on Antares, but I still take her cruising every summer. I recently sailed her up to Isle Royale on Lake Superior, grateful as always for her stout build in the lake’s oceanlike seas. I’ve adopted the KISS system aboard Antares and kept mechanical systems to a minimum. Complicated, labor saving devices aboard are great when they work, but inevitably they will fail. The cost to repair and replace them have derailed many a cruise. I like things that don’t rely on the ship’s batteries. Some of my favorite gear aboard Antares
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is the manual Seatiger 555 windlass and the Aries self-steering gear. I have a 12v. refrigeration system, but use only ice when cruising to reduce power load. I use sun showers and foot pumps for my water system, and a handheld GPS to navigate. My analog sumlog and anemometer still work fine after 30 years. I still use hank on sails, but do have moments of roller furling envy when I douse the genoa on the pitching bowsprit in big seas. Engine access is remarkably convenient either through a large door from the saloon or by simply lifting the cockpit floor. Few boats have such easy and full access to the engine. When I replaced my aging two-cylinder Volvo
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with a new Beta Marine engine I simply lifted the old motor straight up through the cockpit floor. High lifelines and ample bulwarks give me a secure feeling of safety. Wide, uncluttered decks make working forward a pleasure. A high bridge deck and small cockpit protect her from boarding seas. It was a Westsail 32 that survived hurricane force winds in the book “The Perfect Storm.” She has an easy, quiet motion at sea and even in a gale feels like she’s still tied up to the dock. Upwind, she is not a stellar performer, but some owners have reported thousand mile uphill runs
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making over 100 miles per day hard on the wind. With her long bowsprit she does tend to hobbyhorse in short seas. The aid of the engine at low rpms will help her make upwind headway. She’s best on a reach and I’ve routinely made 140+ mile day passages, the Aries vane gear holding her steadily on course hour after hour. Antares is big for a 32, but I’ve singlehanded her thousands of miles and two friends have sailed their W32s solo across the Atlantic. The boat is named Westsail because it’s designed to sail west with the trades—all around the world.
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Sail Greece
With Captain Woody and Tania Aebi
Antares wide beam carried fore and aft gives her enormous storage and living space for a 32. Her huge chart table is a delight to work at. The Westsail is a popular liveaboard vessel and unlike many boats from the ‘70s has held its value. One caveat: the owner of a Westsail better like doing brightwork—they have miles of exterior wood trim. The Westsail Owners Association is a devoted group with a quarterly newsletter (in printed and on-line form) and an active message board. The former Westsail production manager, Bud Taplin of Worldcruiser Yacht Co., is a fount of information. He provides Westsail parts and gear at reasonable prices. I’ve owned Antares for 20 years and admit I sometimes cast an eye on other beauties in the marina. But I always come back to her. There is something sensual about her graceful lines that still calls to me. When I walk down the dock she seems to tug expectantly at her lines, eager to be off over the horizon and onto another great adventure.
ANTARES LOA: 32’ 0” (about 40’ including bowsprit and boomkin) LWL: 27’ 6” Beam: 11’ 0” Draft: 5’ 0” Displacement: 19,500 lbs. Ballast: 7,000lbs Sail Area: 629 sq. ft. Engine: Beta Marine Diesel 1505 (35 hp.) Fuel: 70 gal. Water: 80 gal. Built: 1975 Cruising pg 54-59 Feature Boat-Antares.indd 7
May 11-18, 2013
For Sail Greece our old friends at Dream Yacht Charters have hooked us up with some awesome yachts in one of our favorite destinations. Prepare yourself for an entirely different adventure through the center of civilization. Explore Greece by sailboat with us and Adventure Voyaging. Tania Aebi and Capt. Woody will be your guides as we tour the amazing sights, sounds and eats of the Saronic islands. Greece—the land of gods, goddesses, and baklava. The islands of Aegina, Poros, Hydra, Spetses, and Epidauros and Navplion on the Peloponnese, are all on the itinerary for this amazing week of sailing into ancient history and culture. There are only five boats, space limited. Rates: Couple, private cabin w/ head: $3900 Couple, private cabin, shared head: $3,600 Single, shared Cabin, Shared Head: $2400. Special Rates for Founders Circle and Charter Members
For more info go to:
www.cruisingoutpost.com
Select “Events” Or call 510-900-3616 Ext. 101
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A Day Wasted On A Boat Is A Great Day!
If It’s Gonna Happen, It’s Gonna Happen Out There!
Cap’n Ron
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Shotgun wedding - A case of wife or death
60 Spring 2013
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Be A Part of History - SV Lost Soul
1976
S/V Stone Witch
74’ Square-Rigged Tops’l Schooner
2013 S/V Lost Soul 56’ Stays’l Ketch
Passing It On - From S/V Stone Witch to S/V Lost Soul By Bob Bitchin
I learned how to sail from Captain Alan Olson aboard the S/V Stone Witch in the ‘70s. Actually, I learned more than sailing. I learned a lifestyle. That lesson saved my life. It took me from a drug-filled, violent life of an outlaw biker to the cruising lifestyle; one I have lived and loved for the past 35 years. Recently I experienced what a lot of folks have experienced since 2008. I went from riches to rags with the help of a very bad business decision. What I learned from it was as lifechanging as what I learned from sailing. I learned what is important. That no matter how far you drop, your friends can bring you back. 62 Spring 2013 Pg 62-63 Lost soul.indd 2
Okay, enough of this hokey stuff. Down to the epiphany I had. Everywhere I look I see photos of the boat that saw me through so much of my life - Lost Soul. She was more than a home to me, she was my vessel to adventure. Sailing her over 20 years made my life worthwhile. Along the way, hundreds of thousands of people saw what the cruising life could really mean to them, and it changed lives. Well, damn it, if I can get off my ass after being kicked to the ground financially, perhaps I can help others learn what I learned from Captain Alan so many years ago. Read on and see if you want to join this quest! Cruising 1/29/13 5:37 PM
Help Keep the Legend Alive - Be a Plank-Holder in Lost Soul This is a no-brainer, and when it comes to no brains, I got ‘em! A few people have been asking me how “we” can get Lost Soul back in the family. One sleepless night it hit me. There could be a way. I sent out an email to the people who helped get Cruising Outpost started, our Founders Circle. I figured they had a vested interest in what happens, and as it turns out, not only did they like the idea, but they gave me some great input on how to do it. I am gambling with this story in this issue. You see, Lost Soul’s listing won’t be up until 10 days after this issue goes to press. The owner and I have reached an agreement: if she doesn’t sell, we are on. So here’s the basic outline: Lost Soul is currently sitting in San Francisco in need of some work. The current owner has agreed to a lease-with-option to turn Lost Soul over to SV Lost Soul, Inc. to operate. After bringing Lost Soul back up to her prime sailing condition we will open her for all who participate to sail on her. Then we will plan an round the world sailing adventure. We will invite other boats to join us. On her arrival on the East Coast she will then spend the next year between New England and the Caribbean. Only Plank Holders will be asked to join the crew.
Want More Info? Go to our website at www. svlostsoul. com, and see if you want to participate. Cruising Pg 62-63 Lost soul.indd 3
SV Lost Soul
Year Built 1981- Refit 2003-2006 Builder Formosa Boat Company L.O.D. 56 feet L.O.A. 68 feet Draft 8 feet Displacement Net 38 tons Gross 42 tons Engine 135 HP Perkins (6-435) Fuel Diesel 450 Gal Water 225 Gal
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Adventure Voyage in the British Virgin Islands
By Bob Btchin with unwanted comments from Captain Woody & Tania Aebi. Photos by a whole bunch of people
The first-ever voyage with Captain Woody’s new Adventure Voyaging was a huge success. Six boats and almost 40 people met in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, for a week of cruising and fun. Captain Woody had set an itinerary to visit all the kewl places like the Willy T, the Baths, Leverick Bay, Anegada, and of course Jost Van Dyke to see the folks at Foxy’s and Corsairs. That was topped off with a special party in Cane Garden Bay with Eric Stone (who The helpful was skippering one of (& cute!) staff the boats) providing at BVI Yacht the entertainment! Charters
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Woody: The night before our big cruise, all of our crews met up at Maria’s by the Sea for Rumbalias on Adventure Voyaging. It was good to get everyone introduced to each other and some local libations. Bob and his crew rolled in just after I closed the tab. How can you say no to a smiling Bob? “One more round!” Day one saw us pulling out of BVI Yacht Charters for a great downwind sail to the Bight at Norman Island and the world famous William Thornton, better known as the Willy T. About a halfdozen boats who were
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Adventure Voyage in the BVIs
cruising the area heard we were there and joined us for a great party. Woody and Heidi even “christened” the aft deck of the Willy T by jumping naked from the deck. Alas, no T-shirts are given any more! But the reputation is well intact. Tania: Some of us moored far away from the notorious party boat, avoided a wet dinghy ride, stayed aboard, cooked up some of Woody’s fabulous provisions—spaghetti and meatballs and cabbage salad—and just listened to the whooping and hollering from our cozy cockpit. The following morning the boats went their separate ways, with Tania Aebi and her crew heading out early to the Indians to snorkel, and the Bob Boat headed around the corner to dive at the caves on Norman Island. The plan was for a good sail upwind to Cooper Island to meet for the evening! Getting to Cooper Island meant two long tacks almost all the way back to Tortola, with steady winds and flat seas between the islands. We pulled in to pick up a mooring by mid-day, just in time for lunch. Woody: It rained the day we got to da islands, but it had cleared up and was now immaculately sunny, turning the water and the sky’s blues deep, contrasting the strong greens of the freshly watered island peaks. It was paradise the way you expect it. Folks started to go from boat to boat visiting and exchanging stories of how the sail went. The swim to the beach was easy, but once there the rocks and coral formed a small barrier. At least for me.
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The beach at Cooper Island
Granddaughter Tabitha swam into the beach, but as I tried, I kicked a rock, tripped on some coral, and in just a couple seconds, ended up with a bleeding toe, knee and hand. I swam back to the boat to lick my wounds. Tania, Jody and Lynn gave me sufficient sympathy to stop the sniveling. Tania: Thanks to Lynn’s drinks, the sniveling was funny. The group found out about the Cooper Island Cafe, so they swam ashore to partake. A few hours later, Doug reported there had been multiple attempts by local and visiting sailors to buy Tabitha a drink, but he was able to fend them off! He seemed proud of this. Tabitha, not so much.
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The Baths on Virgin Gorda - Come on Randy, smile!
Woody: Most of the boats BBQed that evening. downing a great breakfast whipped up by Bill from South Dakota and Margi from Detroit. There’s nothing quite like chillin’ on aft deck with The Baths are probably one of the prettiest places good sailing friends, overlooking an idyllic beach, on Earth to swim and climb: huge boulders thrown keeping time by when the sun goes down. together on top of brilliant white sand, surrounded by Tania: There’s also nothing like availing crystal clear water. Truly a Kodak moment (showing oneself of happy hour ashore and returning my age there, huh). to the boat to find that Woody had stopped by Woody: I have been to the Baths a few times. I to fire up the coals and the grill was perfectly had never seen the water there that clear. We did the ready for the ribs! obligatory boulder run to Devil’s Bay. But when we That evening a blow came through, but we got back to the cat, we were well tucked in grabbed our gear and and spent a night snorkeled the front of catching up on much the boulders. The reef missed sleep. Come was not bad and there dawn we decided to were all kinds of caves make an early trip to swim through. Saw to the Baths to make my first wild Lionfish. sure we got a spot They are invasive but if in the most vied-for they want us to kill ‘em mooring field in the they should provide the BVIs. We got there boats with slings. I hear in time and soon we they taste like chicken. were exploring the Tania: We watched caves and beautiful the sun rise on the beaches, after Pirates of the Caribbean? No. It’s a natural formation.
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Adventure Voyage in the BVIs - Adventure Voyage in the BVIs - Adventure Voyage in the BVIs
way to the Baths and were the first boat there. Sailing off-peak is the only way to experience these popular places in solitude. For a little while, we had the whole place to ourselves. Pretty sweet. After a few hours of climbing boulders and finding a very kewl bar located atop the hill, we dropped the mooring and headed up and around the island to North Sound and Leverick Bay. Leverick Bay is run by our old friend Nick, who really knows
how to make cruisers feel at home. He’d set up a buffet for the crew, with just about everything anyone would want to eat, including a whole barbecued pig! Meanwhile, at Jumbies on the Beach, a band played “island music” and folks danced well into the night, only interrupted during the Jumbie show, which was a group of amazing locals who danced on stilts that were eight-feet tall! Quite an accomplishment when you consider they were walking on cobblestone, and even managed to dance up and down the stairs to the pool area! In the morning the group headed out for Anegada. I will let someone else tell you about that, as I had to sail over to Cane Garden Bay for a meeting. Chuck
The Bubbly Pool on Jost Van Dyke.
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Q. Most boat owners name their boats. What is the most popular boat name requested? (see page 69 for answer)
The Jumbie’s show at Leverick Bay. Hey! They are TALL!
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The Woody Boat
The Tania Boat
The Bob Boat
The Bruce Boat
The Randy Boat
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The Eric Stone Boat
The OXO Boat
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VIs - Adventure Voyage in the BVIs - Adventure Voyage in the BVIs - Adventure Voyage in the BVIs -
and Margi joined Tania on her boat, and Bill joined John and Sandy. We planned to meet back up in Great Bay on Jost Van Dyke the following day. Woody: We got lucky with the weather. It was an amazing, sunny, warm, fast passage with strong beam trades scooting us along. The fleet bunched up then spread out. It was good to see the boats get put through their paces. And after the long sail, a long tricky entrance to test our skills – so un-BVI. Being out at Anegada is a great feeling. Just as he had done at Road Town and Leverick, Adrian Johnson and his crew met us as we rolled up to the dock at Potter’s in Anegada. On Tortola and Virgin Gorda, he had taken us on island tours. On Anegada, he arranged a steel drum band to play for us during our amazing meal at Potters by the Sea. Adrian runs charities on and off island including: www.sailbroadreach.ca. Tania: Unlike the other hilly islands of the BVI, Anegada resembles a South Pacific atoll, only as high as the tallest palm tree. With a population of roughly 200, and no major development, it feels so remote, like you’ve sailed much further than fifteen miles to get there. A large inland salt pond is home to a recovering flock of pink flamingoes that nearly went extinct in the last century. A group from our flotilla caught a ride from the island’s only anchorage to Loblolly Beach, and on the way there, we saw a wall of the pink birds on the far side of the pond, a
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special prelude to what followed. You don’t see many places like Loblolly anymore, an endless stretch of entirely undeveloped white sand to explore and beachcomb, fringed by the largest barrier coral reef in the Caribbean. Where the taxis drop off visitors, there is a bar and a few bungalows—otherwise, it’s all about the wind-whipped waves coming from Africa, birds, shells, driftwood. Sadly, the only sign of human life is the litter that washes ashore on lovely beaches around the world. I walked a couple of miles in one direction and thought how depressing it would be to actually count the water bottles. At least, we were able to scavenge a piece of line that was sorely needed aboard for tying down various things. On the Bob Boat we had a perfect downwind daysail around the Dogs, Grand Camino and all the way into Cane Garden Bay. After our meeting, we hung out and watched the sun set over St. Thomas and enjoyed a great pasta dinner aboard. In the morning, the trip to Jost Van Dyke was just a quick downwind sail. We doused the jib as we pulled into Diamond Cove near Foxy’s Taboo. Tania
A. Obsession
Cruising
Dinner time on Anagada.
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had told us about a short walk to a place called the Bubbly Pool. Here, the swell is pushed through an opening in the rocks and fills a bubbling cauldron. On the way, Jody had a brief incident with a cactus (Cactus-1, Jody-0!) and a bunch of curious goats came
Vinney at Corsairs. Watch out for his Fireballs!
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in for a closer look at these strange people. Woody: Lucky again, as we got amazing weather for the sail back from Anegada. Jody’s brief encounter with a cactus! The wind was aft and strong for a quick shot across the 26nm reach, past beautiful Sandy Spit and Sandy Cay, to Great Harbor, JVD. We would see those two soon enough. Then it was time to head over to Great Harbor, the Home of Foxy’s and Corsairs. We stopped in for a coldie and to say hi to Foxy, but he was fishing in Anquilla, so we moseyed down to visit Vinney at Corsairs. Vinney lives the life we dream about. He owned Rocky Mountain Harley Davidson before deciding he wanted to be a barefoot bartender in the BVIs, buying a house on the hill and opening Corsairs, which has been a harbor hangout for cruisers ever
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The view from Sand Island doesn’t suck!
since. He is also the first Official Cruisers Outpost in the BVIs. The group soon gathered at Corsairs. Since it has the reputation of the best food in the BVIs, the crew of the Bob Boat opted to have dinner. Man, what a spread. I ordered the lobster and jokingly said, “and I want a big one!” After an appetizer of some great conch fritters with goat cheese dip (wow!) they brought out the biggest lobster I have ever seen - a five pounder! It took awhile, but I managed to get the majority of it down before dispensing the rest to folks who didn’t order lobster. The rumors were true; Corsairs does have the best food. But watch out! If Vinney starts pouring you “fireballs,” use extreme caution when trying to walk or you will soon find yourself trying to brush something off your shoulder, only to find out it’s the floor! Tania: As previously mentioned, Woody provisioned really well, although there was some puzzlement over why he’d included a little container of allspice, a flavor that only gets used in pumpkin pies. We decided the great Ramen noodle chef had
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probably thought “allspice” meant “all spices in one container,” and was just being efficient with the purchase. Great Harbor was where Kay decided to try the recipe for allspice nuts, which turned out to be a delicious snack before venturing ashore to help Bob with his super-sized crustacean. We did manage to escape relatively cognizant of which dinghy was ours, and the next morning, we dropped the mooring ball. After a stop at Sandy Cay for a quick swim, we headed across to Cane Garden Bay and the party scheduled at Myett’s, featuring Eric Stone. Since Eric was skippering one of the boats, we knew they couldn’t start without us. The evening was truly magical: a perfect starstudded night with the calm waters of Cane Garden Bay reflecting a great sunset while Eric Stone’s music wafted out over the anchorage. Woody: We had the famous harmonica player Bob Gross on our boat. He sat in with Eric for a couple of songs. The place went crazy. It was a great night at the perfect venue. Thanks Val. All the boats managed to get in, as well as folks who’d heard about the party. Some came across island from Road Town, and others made their way to Myett’s on their own cruising boats. We even had a couple groups from previous Share The Sail events show up! How kewl is that? All told, about 100 people ended up joining the fun. Once again, in the morning it was up ‘n at ‘em, as we had to get to Marina Cay for the next event. It was about a 10 mile slog to weather. The winds were blowing and the seas threw what they could at us, but we all managed to make it after a quick stop at
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The pefect little island - Sandy Cay.
Monkey Point for some snorkeling. Tania: Yup, it was a slog . . . especially if you motored. On the way out of Cane Garden, all the boats were supposed to set sail for some picture taking, which turned out to be a very short-lived event. As soon as we left the sheltered bay and met the awaiting weather, down came the sails, on went the engines. We watched the fleet pull ahead of our boat and the Bruce Boat, the only two who continued to tack into the boisterous 25-30 knot winds and waves for a last exhilarating sail. The motorboats got to Monkey Point first and grabbed all the moorings, so we kept on, passing swimming turtles, and headed straight for Marina Cay. The last night was spent in the snug mooring field off Marina Cay and the world famous Pusser’s Restaurant. Late afternoon, a front swept in with a wall of rain and wind howling through the rigging, and between the secure mooring and the reef
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surrounding the cay, we slept calmly. Woody: We took Anne Adair from our boat over to Trellis Bay on the free Pusser’s shuttle. She is a pro windsurfer. We grabbed a couple rigs and tore it up … right through the rain squall. Tania: A last night is also a last chance to be creative with finishing up the provisioning. Aboard our boat of famished sailors, a delicious frittata polished off the eggs, onions, potatoes, cheese and tomato, and some Bisquick and apples made a fine torte for dessert. The ideal charter always needs a good supply of food, and Woody was the best provider. Thank you, Woody. But, since good company is the most important ingredient
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for creating wonderful memories, the biggest, fattest thanks to everyone who joined us. As usual, the time passed all too quickly. In the morning, Sunset from Cane Garden Bay. some boats had to pull into Trellis Bay to drop off folks with early flights. Then, it was a two-hour sail back to the BVI Yacht Charters Base to As usual Captain Woody did a great job putting return the boats. Woody: Thanks to Abbie & Cassie and the rest of this trip together, and everyone was talking about the next Adventure Voyage to Greece! You’ll find more the awesome staff at BVI Yacht Charters. Thanks for all who came out and sailed with us. You help us live on that event on our website. It’s scheduled for May, 2013. See you there? our dream!
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Spring 2013 73 1/29/13 5:42 PM
What’s Out There?
The Nordic Tug 39 combines advanced design and technology with performance and craftsmanship which start with a well designed pilothouse. The large command console features an array of advanced electronics, the helm features a high-end captain’s chair, and large windows provide great views and sightlines. The salon is designed for family with an optional dropdown 23” HDTV. In the galley, a convection/microwave oven and top-loading freezer are standard. The head has a sliding door for easy access, a large shower with seat, and a storage shelf. The reconfigured guest stateroom is great whether enjoying a weekend trip or an extended voyage. The Lynn Senour-designed semi-displacement hull is fitted with a 380 hp Cummins diesel with speeds from the upper ‘teens’ down to a fuel-sipping eight-knot cruising speed. The Nordic Tug 39’s extended range will get you to where the fishing is good and to beaches awaiting exploration.
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The Nordic Tug 39
Get all the facts: www.nordictugs.com
Nordic Tug 39 Specs
LOA 40’ (with roller) LWL 37’ 4” Beam 12’ 11” Draft 4’ 4” Power Cummins QSB 380 hp Weight (dry) 22,600 lbs Weight (wet) 26,000 lbs Fuel 320 USG Range Approx. 1,000 NM @ 8 knots Fresh Water 144 USG Black Water 32 USG Grey Water 9 USG Cruising 1/29/13 5:43 PM
What’s Out There?
The all-new Marlow-Hunter 40 is being launched during the 40th Anniversary of Hunter. She has superior sailing characteristics and is ready for the open sea or coastal cruising. Built in the United States, she is crafted by people who understand and respect the sea. The H40 has dual helm control, fold-down transom, chined hull and dual heads. The hand-crafted interior is made to fit each boat, not the other way around. The result is an interior fit and finish that is as functional as it is beautiful. Marlow-Hunter has gone all out with this new launch, built for cruising and great as a live-aboard. The team of Marlow-Hunter has once again come up with a boat that is an excellent value and looks great while under sail.
Marlow-Hunter 40
Get all the facts: www.marlow-hunter.com
Hunter H40 Specs
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41.3” 36’ 13’ 2” 5’ 2”/6’ 8” 6,027#/5,425# 61’9” 1,006 sq.ft. 50 USG 90 USG 5 USG 40 hp 6’6”
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What’s Out There?
The Oceanis 45 is a vessel built to cruise. Just looking around the large interior you will find a chart table that is also a living room table, which shows they have put great thought into it. On deck the open bathing platform, which makes access to the sea easier, catches everyone’s eye. The Oceanis 45 has four layout options with two, three, or four double cabins that make it suitable for a couple or a large family on a weekend cruise or sailing round the world. On board everything has its own place; nothing seems to get in the way. But the real thrill on this boat is when she catches the wind! The slightest gust will start her moving and she glides through the water in silence, as a sailboat should be designed to do.
Beneteau Oceanis 45
Get all the facts: www.beneteau.com
Beneteau Oceanis 45
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45’9” 42’8” 14’ 9” 5’9” / 7’1” 6,693# / 6,191# 23,250 lbs. 1,068 ft (100% FT) 50 USG 151 USG 5 USG Saildrive 54 HP 6’7”
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What’s Out There?
Lead keels, long travelers for precise sail control, and lengthy inboard genoa tracks so the sail plan is balanced in all wind conditions, are just a few of the many design features that set the new Catalina 385 apart. More unique features include a watertight collision bulkhead aft of the anchor locker. A new backstay system creates an impressive cockpit for the avid sailor, and Catalina’s unique chain plates mast support system affords superior load resolution. The 385’s moderate beam is carried well aft for a spacious cockpit. Modest freeboard reduces windage and a beautiful hand-finished teak interior brings it all home with classic warmth and styling that has been a trademark of Catalina for 41 years.
Catalina 385
Get all the facts: www.catalinayachts.com
Catalina 385 Specs
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39.2” 34’5” 13’ 1” 6’ 10”/4’ 8” 5,200#/6,200# (2) 4D 676-869 sq.ft. 38 USG 97 USG 6 USG Yanmar 40hp 31 USG
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Lif es ty l e A Look at Why We Do What we Do
Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Lifestyle section folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Lifestyle@Cruisingoutpost.com.
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By Gracie Boelsems aboard Gecko Gecko, Emerald Bay, Catalina Island, California.
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Sunset on Martinique by Tabitha Lipkin.
By Steve Ellsworth, S/V Destiny, taken when they were cruising for 12 months “out there.”
Photo by Captain Squid
By Rob Bondy from Windsor, Ontario - Pudgie, Lake St. Clair.
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From Joe & Janet Childers of S/V Tango, Cape Lookout, SC.
Of Gary & Deb Stine racing on True North IV in St. Martin. It was a great race and a great day for racing. There were 21 people on the boat. They won the race.
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Always try to be modest and be proud of it!
Of Cameron at the helm of S/V Alfa Sol in Chesapeake Bay, taken by Dad Scott Moore.
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By Paul Shard, sailing to Spain
Four US Naval Academy sailboats passing under the Triborough Bridge in New York City heading home to Annapolis from New England. The squadron was on a 1200-mile passage to Rockport, Massachusetts and back as part of the Academy’s leadership training program. Photo by LT Morena, Spanish Navy.
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By Winston Mitchell, S/V Kai Malie, Honolulu, HI.
By April White of sunset on the Intracoastal near Sarasota, FL.
The Ocracoke Inlet by Robert Mayo.
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Lemonade Fr Anchored in your favorite anchorage watching the sun slide over the horizon, you are savoring the first night of that annual vacation cruise that you’ve been looking forward to for eleven months. Suddenly you notice the (fill in the blank … refrigerator, watermaker, etc.) isn’t working. Aw crap. What do you do now? 1. Immediately head to your home marina, curse “that damned boat,” tie it up and head home;
2. See if you can find a repairman at the nearest marina, hoping he can fix it in time to salvage part of your vacation; OR 3. Have you planned ahead, with alternatives or parts for most onboard systems, so you can continue to enjoy the well-deserved vacation you’ve been waiting for? The saying goes, “When life hands you lemons, make lemonade.” But this assumes that
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From Lemons
By Jan S. Irons
you have water and sugar, necessary ingredients for lemonade. Similarly, aboard a boat, if you think through alternative systems or potential extra parts ahead of time, when something breaks, you already know what you’re going to do. Once aboard, we don’t want to give up a single day of our precious cruising time. Over the years, my husband David and I have spent time thinking through critical systems to have back up plans so that we don’t have to run for civilization after just anchoring in paradise. Here are a few examples: • Refrigeration is perhaps the most common system causing cruisers to cut short time aboard. What a shame if you only have a month’s vacation and the refrigeration goes out after the first week. You could be the hit of the anchorage and host a beach BBQ so the unfreezing meat doesn’t spoil. Or you may be able to use your well-insulated refrigerator as an ice box for the rest of your vacation if ice is available. Plus we always carry at least two weeks of canned provisions just in case. Our book, The Boat Galley Cookbook, International Marine Publishing, devotes an entire chapter to making edible meals with canned food. • Generators cause cruisers to spend a lot of time waiting for parts at marinas rather than cruising in
paradise. Like a diesel engine, if there are parts that are prone to failure, you may want to carry spares. Other than spare parts, if a generator fails, have a backup plan for all of the functions it serves ... how can we charge the batteries (diesel, solar or wind?), loss of AC current?, and so on. With the right preplanning, it is possible to continue your cruise without a generator. • Watermaker ... once upon a time cruisers cruised without watermakers. Now, over and over I hear boats heading back because the watermaker quit working. Most boats carry enough water to get by for a few days - especially by conserving water more than normal. You can always do it the old fashioned way and fill up with water at a nearby marina. If you have a watermaker, you should be familiar with what could go wrong ... with spares on hand so that you can fix it yourself. • Out of Propane? Most cruisers have a spare propane bottle aboard. Of course, it’s only useful if it’s full. Or you can use your grill if it has a separate camping propane canister – the exact reason our boat is rigged with the grill separate from the stove’s propane system. Aboard Winterlude, a tiny microwave functions primarily as a bread box, but in an emergency, we could fire up the inverter, and have
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dinner. Also consider what happens if something fails in the propane system - like the solenoid. Luckily when our propane solenoid failed, we were finishing our six-month cruise and back at the marina. Now we carry a spare, just in case.
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• iesel putters or ies? Check the filters and strainer first. Be sure to carry a complete selection of replacement filters, the more the better, never take just one. Beyond clogged filters, know your diesel. Carry spare parts for the most common failings - we’ve replaced a salt water pump, two alternators a martRegulator and many other “marinized” parts with the assistance of other cruisers and igel alder. ince our diesel is a 1985 Nanni Kubota 4 cyl 30 hp, not a common engine, we asked our diesel mechanic to recommend a spare parts inventory which has come in handy. • avigation uipment lectronics Communications … carry backups or spares for all critical navigation e uipment GP laptops
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chartplotter etc. We have paper charts and know how to use them. With four GPSs, one should work at any given time. We also have a sextant, but have never had to use it except for fun. SSB and VHF provide our primary communications, morning nets, boat to boat contact as well as weather charts, NOAA text forecasts and Chris Parker weather. We carry an Iridium satellite phone as backup for weather or e-mail, but have never had to use it except for calls home in an emergency. With two handheld VHFs and one built in, we’ve always been able to talk to other boats. • omeone gets sick? ummer ut if ou ve planned ahead, it might not mean abandoning the cruise. My husband, David, has an annual bout with bronchitis. His doctor was happy to provide an “insurance” prescription so we carry antibiotics aboard. A couple of times we’ve had to use it – once literally the next day after we finally left the Rio Dulce, Guatemala. But we didn’t have to return to civilization for meds. If you are susceptible to any routine illnesses, you may be able to save a cruise by talking to your doctor ahead of time. Of course, there are some systems that the strategy simply won’t work for – breaking a mast might be an example. But for everything else, think it through, improvise and en o our cruise
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Story by Capt. Michael L. Martel
These days I am working madly, crazily, like an obsessed man, on the restoration of my old antique wooden gaff yawl, Privateer 1. Every spare hour not at my business is spent sawing, grinding, sanding, shaping, painting, scraping, mixing foul epoxy, getting ears full of grinding dust and powder. I have not been this dirty and grubby and scratched-
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Working Madly up itchy since 1994-95, after I first bought her. But oddly enough, I almost feel like I did 15 years ago, just a little less flexible in the joints. There is a new spring in my step and a dogged determination; men who love boats understand this. I delayed this process for three years, like a wishy-washy ninny afraid of the task, too old for
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the challenge. Then suddenly, something snapped a few months ago. The dream came back to life again. I have fashioned a new oak stem, new timbers, and I will make her seaworthy and fit to cross the Great Deep. The many restoration problems and solutions crowd my mind and my sleep at night. Each separate task is like a chess-board move in sequence, first this, then we do that. It’s like old times; the gears and wheels of restoration strategy and planning are in full motion again like the gears of a great old clock. My mind works through my dreams and I awaken with a conflict; the need to work to make money, but yet the overwhelming urge to put on my ragged work clothes and repair to the boat shed and grab the grinder or the putty knife. I am eating the elephant, one bite at a time, but with a new and sharpened appetite, and a zeal to once again restore and launch my dear old friend. Remember this, as I have discovered of late: Dreams are eternal. They do not die with advancing age. No, they only fall dormant from inactivity or disuse. They do not fade or disappear as we grow older; that is a cruel illusion that we fool ourselves into believing. The fire of dreams can be rekindled by revisiting, by getting off your ass and going back after them. I am not younger, but I feel again the passion I had for rebuilding a boat back when I had no money (and what has changed?). The only way that I could own a boat to fulfill a Slocum-esque dream was to build one myself, like Joshua did, with a dream of taking it somewhere, as I do now, once again. Working toward the goal stokes the fire. ‘Wanting’ and ‘desiring’ are always invigorating; ‘having’ is the bucket of water that puts the fire out. And as I work, I think of the goal, the destination, and dare not speak its name. It could even be a fatal and foolhardy destination: Bermuda!
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Cruisers’ Potluck in St. Marys By Tasha Hacker
Luckily, the And since 2000, day’s journey this tradition has wasn’t nearly as continued, still brutal on the ICW hosted by the Rivas the previous erview Hotel and day’s trip on the its owners Jerry ocean. The sun and Galia Brandon, was out, there were bringing hundreds dolphins swimming of cruisers from around the boat, the nearby and afar cats were looking together each year happy rather than to celebrate. seasick, and we For us, With the anchor up at 6 am managed to eke into Thanksgiving was on Thanksgiving morning in Lanier Island, The St. Marys River made particularly Georgia, we were rushed to cover 35 statute miles at 12:45 pm with special not only by a deadline: 1:00 pm Cruisers’ Potluck potatoes boiling on because we got the stove and about to meet so many Dinner in St. Marys, Georgia. 40 anchored boats cruisers in one in view. place, but because As the story we got to meet goes, St. Marys’ Thanksgiving potluck tradition up with so many cruising couples our age, with began 12 years ago when a group of cruisers headed whom we stretched the restaurant’s patience south pulled into the river to wait out a Nor’easter. by staying long after clean-up, gabbing away When they started looking for ways to celebrate about our experiences and our plans. And then, Thanksgiving together, a local sailor named Charlie deciding we weren’t quite done with each othJacobs offered to cook up a turkey for the cruisers, ers’ company, we created an impromptu, movand the owners of the Riverview Hotel offered up ing after-party that involved boat-hopping in our their hotel’s restaurant lounge so everyone could dinghies from shore to Rode Trip to Serendipity gather there. to Hideaway.
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In the process, we managed to empty all three boats’ liquor stashes, pick up one more couple, convince the couple on Serendipity they should adopt a cat, make macaroniand-cheese for 10 people and discover that our wee little Catalina 34 is actually a lot roomier than it looks. And, funnily enough, at no point in the evening did anyone acknowledge that it was Thanksgiving or attempt to announce what they were thankful for on this day. Maybe the holiday itself wasn’t important to note, or maybe, like me, those around me didn’t feel the need to remind themselves out loud what they had to be thankful for. On this particular Thanksgiving Day, we were living life as though we were nothing but thankful for every day we had. And it seemed as though we were all so obviously grateful to be together at that time, in that place, and at this time in our lives. Perhaps “thanks” just didn’t need to be said. It was simply felt very deeply.
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The Truth About M Recently, a friend asked me to explain why there is such a marked difference in the prices of marine binoculars. A detailed answer would involve explanations related to image brightness, resolution, rigidity, water-tight integrity, anti-reflective lens coatings, baffling and a host of other considerations. However, while most consumers don’t have the background to interpret the myriad issues, they can understand the two most important points—the general lack of consumer understanding of the topic and the willingness of many vendors to take advantage of that. One need not understand all the facets of what makes a good binocular, but it should be known that a healthy case of common sense and 9th grade science, sprinkled with a tough skepticism, can bring one closer to purchasing that essential tool for the mariner. BUT, IT LOOKS LIKE A BINOCULAR A music store manager in my youth, I filled in for the guitar instructor when he was on errands. In that role, I spoke with mothers who were dumbfounded their child had been taking lessons—sometimes for months—but had not learned to coax a pleasing sound from their instrument. More often than not, the problem was in the “guitar” and not in a lack of talent. Sometimes strings were inordinately high; other times the bridge hadn’t been glued in the correct position. In either case, no pleasing sound was even possible. Let it suffice to say the parent seemed to take the over-simplified opinion that if it was made of wood and shaped like a guitar, it must be a guitar.
UNIVERSAL TRUTHS The same is true for binoculars—even marine units. As an example: consider that the Fujinon FMT-SX marine binocular will resolve well from the center to the edge of the field, when many instruments of lesser price... and quality, have images that start getting soft 1/3 to 1/2 way from the center of the field. Those lesser quality instruments are shaped like binoculars, but can they offer what you need? If a harbor light may just be only glimpsed at the edge of the field in a quality instrument, how many times might it go unnoticed by a cold, wet, wind-blown sailor using a cheaper instrument with a soft image at the edge of the field? INEXPENSIVE PRODUCTS GETTING BETTER... BUT One need not spend $1,000+ to buy an instrument of lasting value from the optical legends of Europe—some of which are actually manufactured in Asia. However, you cannot buy a binocular providing a quality image and offering years of service for $79.95—period; at least not for the marine environment! Some mariners consider a $250 binocular to be the Nirvana of instruments, yet various manufactures consider instruments at that price “disposable.”
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Marine Binoulars By Bill Cook
Here you have a Fujinon FMTC-SX, a Swift Seahawk (IF model) and a Steiner Commander. They range in price from about $400 to $1,000. These are lifetime instruments: waterproof, rugged, have wide fields of view and offer crisp images from the center of the field to the edge.
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See the “Back Story” of Treb The Whale at www.cruisingoutpost.com/Treb
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Paradise Found: Boot Key Harbor By Steve “Sailing Guitarist” Hall
According to the recording artist Eric Stone, “Paradise is not a place… it’s a state of mind.” I have to disagree, because after sailing my Allied Mistress S/V Endless Summer to Boot Key Harbor, I have found it. At least it is for this cruising sailor. In the middle of the Florida Keys you will find the infamous Boot Key Harbor. Boot Key is in the heart of Marathon on Vaca Key. That’s right, the harbor offers 360 degree protection from the weather, with a very convenient access to the Atlantic Ocean either through Sister’s Creek to the south, or to the Gulf of Mexico through the harbor’s marked channel to Moser Channel. You will find yourself going under a 65’ fixed bridge called… Moser Bridge. What really makes Boot Key Harbor special is the “family like” community atmosphere. The City of Marathon helped to make this possible by installing 226
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mooring balls to create this little city on the water. This convenience makes the harbor a great place to visit for a few days before a Gulf Crossing, or for a winter’s stay to avoid the cold that the rest of the country has to endure. The temperatures in Boot Key for the month of January, 2013 were mostly 82 degrees in the day and 72 degrees at night. This wonderful weather leads to some very pleasant sunsets. The monthly rate includes dinghy dockage, bicycle racks, a parking space, as well as a laundry facility, hot showers, tiki hut seminars and pot lucks. Your fee also includes a pump out once a week, since the Florida Keys are declared a Federal No Discharge Zone. All the conveniences of a home away from home! Location Boot Key Harbor is located near Mile Marker 49 on US Highway 1. The harbor is managed by the city
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of Marathon: a small community of fulltime residents and part-time residents that come in for the winter (and many end up staying for the year). Many of the stores you need for you or your boat are only a walk, a bike ride, or a short dinghy ride away. The city boasts major stores like Home Depot, West Marine, Publix and Winn Dixie, plus many various marine services, including several boat yards. Activities During the peak season, from December to May, you will find a variety of things to do from Tai Chi and yoga to pick-up softball games in the community park which adjoins the City Marina. Tennis Courts, a skateboard park, and a large amphitheater are also found at the City Park. Within walking distance from the dinghy docks you will also find the library, the Fisherman’s Hospital, the American Legion, a small community theater, and many other stores and restaurants. The “social center” is another awesome thing about staying here in Boot Key Harbor. It is an open air area that can be used for small meetings, or just
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hanging out with other cruiser friends. Wifi is free there in the center, with many picnic style tables and chairs, along with many books for trade, DVDs to borrow, and postal mail service. There are also two areas with movie theater style chairs and flat screen TVs. This is a perfect place to relax off your boat for the afternoon, as well as a great place to meet new friends and your neighbors. Marathon Cruisers Net Every morning at 9:00 a.m. the cruisers in the harbor will meet on the VHF radio to discuss upcoming events, introduce new arrivals, departing vessels, boats that need help, and an awesome “cash for trash” buy-sell-trade-give away flea market. Listening in each morning becomes a habit quickly, with so much information being shared. There is even a “stump the harbor” that brings out some interesting information. Conveniences The marina offers so much to the guests of Boot Key Harbor, with all the facilities and services located right there. There is also great reef diving, snorkeling, and many restaurants are accessible by dinghy. There is a public bus system
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that runs up and down the Florida Keys. You can take it from Key West all the way to Miami. The many airports are also close. You will find one in Key West, Ft. Lauderdale, or Miami. All of these conveniences make Marathon’s Boot Key Harbor a great place to enjoy the cold winter blues. Boot Key Harbor City Marina Latitude 24 42’ 33.8” Longitude 81 5’29.1”
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St. Pete Cruisers’ Party 14 years and still going strong!
Who’d a thunk that the little cruisers’ party we threw in St. Pete so many years ago would grow into a tradition? Well, the folks who were there sure thought it! This year was one of the best parties we’ve had to date. The night before the party a group who met at one of the events invited us to a tradition that was started when they all met at our party, and learned they were all from the same dock in the same marina - Dock 4! Ever since they have had a Friday night dock party! This year they invited Jody and I as well as Captain Woody! Kewl!
On the night of our party an estimated 9001000 people packed onto the Cocktail Barge for a little pizza and beer, and to hear the Eric Stone Band with Steve & Shelly Hall! Show Management, who put on this event, donated this great barge for the party. We dropped the float levels by 14.5 inches! Didn’t quite sink her though! Once again, we have to thank all of the industry folks that came together to help make this party such a huge success. Along with our regular sponsors, Harken, Forespar and Dream Yacht Charters, we had Mack Sails, Peterson Marine,
Among our helpers for this event we had a couple cuties! On the left is Lily, who helped us draw the winning tickets for the raffle, and on the right, our hostess was pretty cute herself.
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The group from Dock 4 across the channel from the show came in force!
Boaters and Industry folks enjoying a free beer, a little pizza, and a great night.
Spectra Watermakers, Sailology, Massey Yacht Sales, Murray Yacht Sales, Kanberra Gel, Prism Polsh and Copper Coat. Without these people we could not do what we do. We had over $15,000 worth of prizes for our raffle including a Spectra Watermaker donated by Peterson Marine, a one-week charter of a catamaran in the BVIs by Dream Yacht Charters, a Winchrite electric winch handle, and dozens of other prizes donated by the boating industry. The proceeds from the raffle go to the Mystic Seaport Museum to help with the refit of the Charles W, Morgan, the oldest remaining New Bedford Whaler. If you get a chance, check out our events listing on the cruisingoutpost.com website and see when there will be a cruisers’ party near you!
The winner of the Spectra Watermaker from Peterson Marine.
The happy winners of the Dream Yacht Charter in the Caribbean!
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There is No Place Anywhere Near This Place That Looks Anything Like This Place,
So This Must Be The Place! Castlebay, Isle of Barra, Scotland
by John Simpson
Castlebay, Scotland
Visiting Castlebay, Barra ,the most southerly inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides whilst yacht cruising the Western Isles has many great things to recommend it. Especially if you enjoy the craic ashore in good company and excellent seafood. Visitor’s moorings are laid in the north part of the bay, which shelves rapidly and is open to the south,
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but you’ll need a tender. If no buoys are available and you have to anchor, the holding ground is reported as poor. Sheltering behind the castle in strong southerlies could be uncomfortable, but there are good alternatives in Cornaig or Vatersay Bays. Right in the middle of the harbour is the spectacular Kisimul Castle. The current laird,
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American Iain MacNeil, Professor of Emeritus Law at Northwestern University, Illinois leased the castle in 2001 to Historic Scotland for a bargain price of a bottle of whisky and £1 a year for the next thousand years; roughly the amount of time it had been in his family! The castle is open and can be visited by the public. Given suitable conditions, inflating the dinghy and eating ashore is well worthwhile, especially if you are a shellfish fan. Barra scallops seem to be the largest and most succulent on the whole of the west coast of Scotland, whilst cockles are collected from the local runway, which is the beach at low water! Both are obviously very fresh, cooked beautifully, then served at prices a fraction of what you pay in Edinburgh according to CJ, one of our group. A particular group of six of us, sailing Somerled, Cumbrae’s 37-foot yacht and almost all strangers to each other at the beginning, had a great shore run here after a quick sail down from South Uist. This young in heart (if not years!) group became very well known to each other as the ‘bumbling geriatrics’ (the BGs) on this trip, and subsequently have sailed together on our sportscotland yachts for several seasons since then!
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Bahia Pinas (Pinnapple Bay)
In April of 2011 we found ourselves needing to make direct passage From Bahia De Caraquez, Ecuador, to Panama in order to bring our brigantine, One World, through the Panama Canal to the Caribbean. Because of insurance restrictions and time constraints, we elected to give Colombia as wide a berth as possible while still staying within the confines of the north-setting current which can usually be found within 50-100 miles of the Ecuador and Colombia coast. In order to properly locate this current we used NOAA’s latest OSCAR (Ocean Surface Current Analysis Realtime) website which
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By Todd Duff
very accurately predicted the major ocean current’s direction and speed and then, with some careful plotting of underwater topography and a bit of luck, we did in fact carry a one- to two-knot current virtually the entire way into the Bay of Panama. After 500 miles and on the morning of the fourth day into the passage, while still a hundred miles short of the canal, an unexpected alternator problem encouraged us to put into Bahia Pinas, a rather attractive looking indentation on Panama’s southeast Pacific coast just a few miles north of the Colombian border in the wild and untamed Darien province. Sunrise saw us off a misty, dark, mountainous
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coastline that appeared to carry impenetrable jungle right down to the ocean. With rain falling in the 5,000-foot northern extremity of the Andes Mountains behind the coast, and sunshine breaking through to reveal rainbows and glittering whitecaps, we excitedly closed the coast. Even despite having the most up-to-date chart chips in our chart plotters, both of our units were substantially in error on both latitude and longitude in this section of the coast, but the entrance to the bay was straightforward and the heavily forested, steepto coast has few offshore obstructions. And so, by 9:00 a.m. we were safely anchored in the swellfree northwest corner of the bay. Sprawling along the shore at the head of the bay was the Tropic Star Lodge, home to a world class, and we were to soon find out, world renowned sport fishing resort located here in one of the most remote and inaccessible corners of Panama. Because of the close proximity to the steep drop off that carries on all the way down the South American coast to Tierra Del Fuego, and with the rich and bountiful shallows of the Bay of Panama beginning at the bay’s doorstep, the waters around Bahia Pinas offer arguably the most prolific and rewarding sport fishing to be found anywhere on the planet. The bay surrounding us had lush, precipitous green hills and a deep beach which, with the tide out, showed us why the single pier coming out from
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There are two theories about arguing with women. Neither one works.
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the manicured yet very rustic and wild looking shore was so long. The bay has 10-foot tides and a gently shelving bottom, so the muddy beach was uninviting. But the resort looked beautifully tended and quite attractive despite the extreme low water. Our anchor well set in 40 feet on a thick mud bottom, we quickly launched our inflatable and went into the floating dock and made the long walk ashore to introduce ourselves to the management. An email sent from the ship in advance of our arrival had the general manager, Robert Vargas, prepared for our arrival and within minutes we were given a brief history of what we were to learn is possibly the most famous sport fishing spot
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in the world. People the likes of John Wayne, Sean Connery, Guy Harvey and countless other millionaires and movie stars have visited this resort since it was founded by Texas sport fishing visionary, Ray Smith in 1959. At a total initial cost of $600,000, the man known as the “barefoot millionaire’ opened the fishing lodge in 1963. Vargas told us of how in the early years, people would fly in by Grumman Goose, an early yet dependable seaplane, to try their luck in the bountiful waters surrounding the Lodge. Originally intended as a simple guest house and retreat from the busy US, Ray Smith gradually developed the place into what is today, a stunning 15,000 acre eco-friendly and largely self sufficient resort of unparalleled beauty. Under new ownership since Ray Smith’s passing, management has been keeping things simple yet elegant. Maintaining the rustic 1960s charm while providing all of the modern amenities to their guests, the Tropic Star Lodge has kept its reputation as the place to go for a truly tropical fishing experience. Over the next several hours we were shown through the entire resort which includes not just the lodge and guest cottages, but also has its own sophisticated power plant with triple redundant systems, a complete boat repair and boatbuilding facility including the best stocked parts department we had seen since leaving the Virgin Islands a year ago, as well as a lumber yard, machine shop, fiberglass shop, haulout facility and covered storage for a portion of the fleet of 32 sport fishing
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boats that the Lodge maintains in impeccable order. Maintenance Manager Paul Carney boasted that they have never had a guest lose a day of fishing because of a breakdown and that typically, a guest would not have to wait for more than an hour for a replacement boat on the few occasions when one of their well maintained fleet has had a breakdown. Carney stated “People spend a lot of money to come here to fish, and their time is very valuable too, so we do our best to make sure they are not left waiting when an unavoidable breakdown occurs.” With 120 full-time employees and a dozen or so part-timers too, it is no surprise that things generally do run like clockwork. Carney was very kind to send out one of his mechanics who switched out our alternator and got us up and running, and for this they would not accept payment. That night we dined ashore in the very tastefully appointed communal dining area. We joined a group of mostly Americans who made us feel very welcome. A little uncomfortable about being the center of attention, we realized that because we had sailed in on a small tallship via the Galapagos and were not ‘normal’ in their eyes, we were a good source of entertainment! We did our best to answer all of their questions, but whenever possible tried to direct the conversations back to them and what they were doing down in southern Panama. One of the most interesting stories was that of a father and young daughter who were there to try
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is Must Be The Place - This Must Be The Place - This Must Be The Place - This Must Be Why are you reading this? This is just a line to make the page look pretty.
to set a world record. Little Tori was due to turn 10 the following day and her wish for a birthday present had been to try for a world record size fish. While at first I was a bit skeptical about a 10-year-old girl’s conviction as an avid fisherperson, as I listened, her knowledge of fishing and of the sport in general was quite amazing. The next day while finishing up a walk ashore, we were coming back through the grounds when we saw some commotion at the fish weighing station. There was triumphant 10-year-old Tori with a world record size rooster fish! Apparently she had known the depth and speed to troll at and was back in before lunch time with this monster that was almost as large as her. The next morning she went out again and came back in with a second potential world record for her age, a 73-lb. black tip shark. The bay’s high and heavily wooded hills conceal many secrets and within a day we had located some trails which led to beautiful secluded beaches, fantastic jungle landscapes and enchanting encounters with wildlife. Everywhere we walked, the beauty and natural splendor of the place captivated us. Around the point from our cove there is a small Indian village. Each afternoon, children in small cayucos would paddle around the point into our anchorage and show us their families’ wares. Each cayuco carried two to three children with a selection of intricately hand woven baskets and bracelets, hand carved paddles and model boats to
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sell. Some were truly works of art and we regret not buying more of them; especially when we saw the same wares for sale in Panama City with a 500% markup! At one point we had probably 10 cayucos surrounding us with 30 or so children climbing around or hanging on to One World and playing in the water next to us. Their smiles and laughter warmed our hearts and one afternoon the children took our younger crew back to their village with them to show them off. The village was small and dirty, and was quite a contrast to the paradise lodge around the corner, but the people seemed genuinely happy and of course, many of the families had one or more of their members in the employment of the lodge. While Bahia Pinas and the Tropic Star Lodge are not on the average cruising yacht’s itinerary, and are a bit off the regular route to and from the Galapagos, I would definitely stop again. Given the opportunity I might even go out for a day of fishing there! With a friendly and knowledgeable staff, a secure and safe anchorage and in a location that is just a day’s sailing from the Las Perlas Islands, Bahia Pinas is definitely worth a visit. As a footnote, leaving Bahia Pinas, while still within sight of the towering hills and small offshore islands, we caught a very large mahi mahi. It wasn’t world record size, but we felt like it was a nice going away present from a very special place!
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Port of Delcambre, Louisiana
The small community of Delcambre, Louisiana, in the heart of Cajun Country, is now accepting overnight and multi-day stays for recreational boaters traveling the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW). Located in south central Louisiana, Delcambre is only six miles north of mile marker 145 on the GIWW. The new Port of Delcambre’s North Pier Marina opened in March, 2012. North Pier Marina provides an excellent new location in a safe haven, and offers cruisers comfort, security, and amenities that include power,
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water, WiFi, trash service, transportation to nearby points of interest, and free delivery of groceries to their boats. Services such as fuel, ice, mechanics, and marine hardware stores are nearby. North Pier Marina offers transient slips for both large and small boats (please see the details at www.portofdelcambre.com/ marina-info). The North Pier Marina is one of several projects in the Twin Parish Port District’s plans to promote Delcambre as both a commerce center and a waterfront center for
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tourism. The first project, Delcambre Direct Seafood (www.delcambredirectseafood.com), has been very successful in helping local shrimpers make the world famous sweet white shrimp of this area available for sale right off their shrimp boats. The boat landing for the shrimpers is only a five-minute walk from North Pier Marina. Delcambre is near both Avery Island, home of Tabasco (www.tabasco.com/avery-island), and Rip Van Winkle Gardens on beautiful Jefferson Island (www.Ripvanwinklegardens.com). It is also only minutes from historic Abbeville, New Iberia, and Lafayette, Louisiana. Transportation to these venues can be scheduled with the Marina. Come visit us. Let us share the peace and comforts of our Delcambre Canal site, where sparkling mullet jump for joy, and egrets and herons fish in the shallows. Try our world famous seafood and Cajun cuisine. Please call the Port Director, Mr. Wendell Verret, at 800-8846120 Extension 1, or email him for a reservation at wverret@ portofdelcambre.com. Our Dock Master, T-Boy Renard, will help you get settled into your slip, and our Marketing Manager, Katherine Kenworthy, will help you enjoy all the amenities we offer as well as introduce you to the friendly visitors already at the marina. Come to Delcambre. You’ll be glad you did … and you’ll come back again and again. Oh, did we mention that they are one of our Cruising Outposts? By the way, Delcambre is pronounced ‘Delcome’ and rhymes with Welcome.
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* Cruisians Once a King, always a King, but once a night’s enough!
*A small, exclusive group of people who are mentally ill and feel, for some reason unbeknownst to anyone, that by getting on a small boat about the size of a jail cell and heading out into the most unhospitable place on Earth (the ocean), they will somehow enjoy themselves.
Ed dresses up pretty good! Below you see him making a toast to the Heads of State as ConsulGeneral of Liberia and Chair of the annual Gala Consular Ball. (Does that sound impressive?) But he‘d rather be as seen on the right, cruising in Monrovia, Liberia.
Jeff & Marie (better known as Ken & Barbie) have been a part of the Cruising Outpost from day one. Now they are running S/V Delphine for charters out of Grenada. How kewl is that? Okay, so we all know that sailing is fun, but Mark Kramer of Kaukanna, WI, seems to be having too much fun as he is sailing to Mac Island. Obviously he doesn’t understand how deep the water is?
Sascha Warunkiw is our newest cartoonist (see page 22) and is a Prairie Boy from Alberta. He got talked into buying a sailboat and discovered he had Viking genes. Wow, how cool was that? He couldn’t figure out why he never got seasick and loved climbing the mast in a storm to untangle this or that. 194 Spring 2013 pg 194 Cruisians.indd 1
Chuck & Margie Knowles love to cruise. Here they are, stuck on a boat with Bob & Jody in the BVIs. Can’t you see how much they were hatin’ it? Chuck works out of the Doyle Sail Loft in Detroit, and is the inventor of the ‘Halyard Saver” we sell at shows!
Ray Bush sails out of his home in Newport Beach, Sydney, Australia. This is a photo of him aboard his East Coast 31’ Hustler. He’s sailing into Refuge Bay to check out the waterfall. Hey Ray, thanks for the photo! Hope to see you down there soon?
Steve Peterson loves the life at sea. He currently lives aboard in Southern California, and tries to get out sailing with wife Melody whenever he can. Hi Steve! Cruising
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