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Cruising outpost #20 fall 2017

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From the Creators of

CruisingOutpost.com

CRUISING

PARADISE NEW ZEALAND TO FRENCH POLYNESIA

JESSIE

SETS SAIL AGAIN! THE BEAUTY OF THE

BEAST

SAILING WITH WHALES IN VAVA'U

S/V SOULMATE’s GREAT ADVENTURE

MAST FLYING

HIGH ON SILK! Fall 2017 Issue #20

BOAT SPOTLIGHT ELAN GT5 OUTREMER 4X SOLARWAVE

SOLAR DRIVEN POWER CRUISER!

U.S. $7.99 - Canada $8.99

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In th

there isis issue less tha n

39.7%

Advertis

ing! And we did it O N PURPO SE! Most o th e magazin r boating es h 65% adave over s. Person Responsible for This Bob Bitchin bob@cruisingoutpost.com

Editor at Large Sue Morgan sue@cruisingoutpost.com

Boat Show Queen Jody “Bitchin” Lipkin jody@cruisingoutpost.com

Staff Infection Tania Aebi Contributor Zuzana Prochazka zuzana@cruisingoutpost.com

Life Aboard Queen Mother Robin Stout robin@cruisingoutpost.com

Web & Art Guru Richard Marker rich@cruisingoutpost.com

Media Princess Tabitha “Bitchin” Lipkin tabitha@cruisingoutpost.com Marketing & Video Darren O’Brien darren@cruisingoutpost.com

BS Party Manager Dave Dudgeon dave@cruisingoutpost.com

Boat Show Slaves Jessie Zevalkink & Katie Smith (Also Godmothers to the Office Cats!)

Intern Copy Editor Natalie Shorr

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Advertising Goddess Lisa O’Brien

People Who Helped Us Create This Issue

Suzy Carmody Annie Dike Paul Esterle Len Freedberg James Gyore Rob Hamic Tatiana Lundstrom Maggie Matias Jessica Lloyd-Mostyn Chuck & Patty Ritenour-Ridgway Lea Ann Rock John Simpson Robert Scott Chuck Steffens Morgan Stinemetz Marc Vandendorpel Robert Walker Jeff & Judy Wahl Jessie Zevalkink

This Issue’s Cover: Arguably the best marine photographer alive, this photo is from our friend Billy Black. If you see a boat photo you like, the odds are in favor that Billy shot it! In the last 20 years we have run at least 10 covers from his great lens. Thanks Billy! Next Issue Goes On Sale December 3, 2017 Printed in the USA

People Who Didn’t Help Us At All Donald Trump Hillery Clinton Millard Fillmore Rutherford Hayes

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Many people disagree with our punctuation usage. For those people, we offer these punctuation marks to be used wherever they like!

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Contents

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Special Stuff in this Issue Desiree’s Great Adventure Jessie Zevalkink Water Babies Featured Cruising Vessel - Rogue Tiger Sailing Russia New Zealand to the Society Islands A Sailing Lady Hits the Silk Beauty of the Beast This Place: Cranberry Island There’s This Place: Georgetown, Bahamas

Be decisive. Right or wrong, make a decision. The road of life is paved with flat squirrels who couldn’t make a decision.

Issue #20 Fall 2017

33 48 57 62 70 100 104 112 140

46 48 Regular Stuff in this Issue Attitudes Bob Bitchin Outpost News Another Way Tania Aebi What’s Out There: Monohull -Elan GT5 What’s Out There: Multihull - Outremer 4X What’s Out There: Power Cruiser - Solarwave Silent 55 I Found It at the Boat Show Lifestyle Latitudes & Attitudes Talk of the Dock Zuzana Prochazka Life Aboard Robin Stout Bubba Whartz Tech Tips Captain Pauly Galley Gourmet Bosun’s Bag Mackie White Cruisians

8 14 30 42 44 46 79 86 118 148 150 152 154 156 176 185 186

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CRUISING OUTPOST (USPS 011-950) IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY BY CRUISING OUTPOST, 9353 Oroville Quincy Hwy, Berry Creek, CA 95916. Periodical Postage paid at Berry Creek, CA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CRUISING OUTPOST, PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416.

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By Bob Bitchin

When I first started sailing it was kinda late in my life. Let’s just say “over 30” and leave it at that. I started by reading all the magazines that told of what I would need once I got out there. Then there were books by people like Lin & Larry Pardey, Herb Payson and Bernard Moitessier. From these I gleaned a lot of the “rules” of cruising. After all, there has to be rules, right? If not, we’d have anarchy. But then there are the “real” facts. Honestly, real facts just don’t pay any attention to the rules. No one can tell another person what cruising will be like for them. Every skipper has to rely on what he learns during his time at sea. Every situation at sea has its own parameters, and day by day, as you spend more and more time at sea, you learn what can be done in certain situations. Okay, so I know that there are supposed “rules.” Take anchoring for example. Most books written on the subject suggest 7-1 scope when anchoring. But I can tell you there were times when I was very comfortable anchored off Catalina in 108’ of depth and I would only use 3-1 scope. I felt comfortable because for my boat, using an “over-size” anchor (110-lb. Bruce) with all 3/8 chain seemed reasonable to me. As it turns out, using that combination, I never drug anchor and that was what I used for over 20 years! But (a very large word), I also remember when we anchored off Cabo San Lucas in 1983 at the tail end of a hurricane. I used the Bruce, and after 50 feet of chain was let out I shackled on my back-up 65-lb. Danforth, then let out another 50 feet of chain, then added my Fortress anchor. Finally, when I reached the end of my 300 feet of chain, I shackled on my 300 feet of one-inch nylon rode I carried for a second anchor, ending up with 600 feet of total rode with three anchors. I still slept like a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. And then we have to consider the world is changing all the time. What I knew to be true in the ‘80s about sailing kept getting outdated. Electronics improved, as did navigation, maneuverability, sail material and safety gear.

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When I first crossed the Pacific as skipper I used a sextant. GPS had not been invented, Satellite navigation could only be afforded by the very wealthiest of cruisers and commercial vessels, and even Loran was out of my financial realm. Today, all that has changed. Not sure if that’s a good thing or a bad thing. Why bad, you ask? Well, consider this. New people being introduced to cruising today have a lot more technology at their fingertips, but I feel they enter the field too easily. Many people start planning a cruise and rely on modern goodies to make their cruising life easy. Combined GPS, radar, and navigation software show the “reality” of where you are. Or is it? Is it reality? I can tell you I have had some really good laughs over the years watching large, expensive yachts run into reefs, rocks and other boats because the skipper relied on his autopilot being told what to do by his chart-plotter. I remember many years ago when a friend of mine took a group of about 20 people out for a day on his 65’ Hatteras to do some fishing. After a day of hot sun and cold beer, they were heading back into port when he decided to leave the bridge to go to the aft deck and empty the bait tank. Yup! You got it. He slipped when dumping the tank overboard and went over himself. The panic aboard when the boat was about to hit the rocks at the entrance of the harbor and he could not be found was anything but funny. The search for the next 18 hours to find him wasn’t funny either. (They did find him, alive.) He even made his way into the “Book of Bobs” (yes, his name was Bob and he was found “bobbing” and no, it wasn’t me!!). So read what the experts say, then make your own plan and be sure to rely on your own common sense. I lived aboard for over 35 years and sailed over 100,000 miles, and there is one thing I know for sure - I don’t have any idea what will happen the next time I am out cruising!

No sensible decision can be made any longer without taking into account not only the world as it is, but the world as it will be. - Isaac Asimov

Attitudes

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Cruising Outpost News It’s a Woman’s World

What do bulletproof vests, fire escapes, windshield wipers and laser printers have in common? All were invented by women.

Katadyne Spectra Prize!

The folks at Katadyne (Spectra) have donated one of their great Survivor 06 Emergency Watermakers for our Pacific Northwest Cruisers’ Gathering as a raffle prize! It is the smallest hand-operated emergency desalinator in the world. Recommended for emergency life rafts and individual survival kits, it’s trusted by militaries and individuals around the globe. The proceeds from these raffles go to the Educational Tall Ship Foundation!

The Pacific Cup

The “FUN Race to Hawaii” runs every even year, starting from San Francisco. Begun in 1980, the race has been enjoyed by thousands of racers sailing well over a million miles in total. The 2018 Pacific Cup invites well-prepared boats to race to the warm, welcoming shores of Kaneohe Bay, Oahu. Before the race, participants will attend safety and preparation seminars and social events including the very popular Bon Voyage party. For the latest news on the Pacific Cup you can go to their website at https:// www.pacificcup.org.

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Desiree’s Great Adventure: Conquering the Great Lakes by Jessie Zevalkink

LAKE MICHIGAN: Monday morning I wave farewell to Northport, Michigan. This is the second time I have sailed away from my home port; all the familiar feelings swell up. The elation of the unknown beams from my face in the shape of a grin. In contrary, the suspense of the unknown nearly boils from my skin in the form of hives. I am sailing to England out the Great Lakes, St. Lawrence Seaway, and across the North Atlantic where icebergs roam. This goodbye requires long, deep breaths.

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Desiree’s Great Adventure I don’t cry when we wave goodbye. I kind of expected to. I can be such a child in that way, when all of the hard work stacks up to the monumental moment of releasing the dock lines. The crew may have caught me glassy-eyed, but I am the first to admit to crying (hard) yesterday. It was unexpected. The Wizard (Dad) was helping me rig up the mizzen. He knew it was our last day together for some time. He wasn’t just saying goodbye to me, but to his sailboat which I think he is more concerned about. He was calm, giving me diligent direction and walking me through one last lesson. All of the work we had done together, all of the time, the money, the persistence… it extracted a puddle of water from somewhere unknown in my body and shoved it out of my eyes. I couldn’t believe what he had done to make this happen for us. I couldn’t believe he was letting me sail his boat across an ocean. His Desirée. His first daughter. His first love. I lost it. I thanked him. I told him I loved him. I wiped my eyes dry. And that was it. We carried on rigging the mizzen boom.

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The first set of crew are courageously on board with me until we reach Detroit. My team-mates, my soldiers, my guinea pigs are beaming with me, each of us hyper, myself in particular with the wings of a Red Bull. I don’t know if my crew understand what sailing Lake Michigan and Lake Huron are going to be like. I don’t know if I understand either. Together we will figure it out. Together we will do our very best. Together we will dress like Eskimos and sail through the frost. For three days, three little Eskimos look to me for answers, for direction, and trust me to make good decisions. I’ve never been a captain before. Only a cocaptain. The hazards that go along with sailing through the Great Lakes in the middle of April begin with 37-degree water temps, frosty decks, freezing nights, arctic and unpredictable winds, harbors that have yet to be dredged, buoys and markers that have yet to be placed. My crew is trusting me. I am trusting Desirée. There is no doubt I am feeling the pressure. LAKE HURON: We pass under the Mackinaw Bridge. It remains as magnificent as every other time.

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Conquering the Great Lakes

...it extracted a puddle of water from somewhere unknown in my body and shoved it out of my eyes. I couldn’t believe what he had done to make this happen for us. I couldn’t believe he was letting me sail his boat across an ocean. His Desirée. His first daughter. His first love. I lost it. I thanked him. I told him I loved him. I wiped my eyes dry.

The trucks roar over the metal grates and we look up at the structure as if we have never seen it before. We sprint downwind in large rollers. The engine we are using to charge everything up quits. A few accidental gybes occur. This rattles us all, me in particular, fully understanding its danger. Desirée’s sturdy cedar boom in which we’ve coated with varnish too many times to count comes hurling port to starboard. This is my fault. Twenty-five knots at our back and I am too occupied trying to bleed fuel out of the engine instead of holding a proper course. I know better than to rely on anything but sails, but my training came backwards. Engine first, sails second. I am doing my best to re-format what I know best. The weight of responsibility thickens. I understand my experience level and stay within those boundaries. I have

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been forced to exit them already, merely because there is nothing sensible about sailing the Great Lakes this time of year. I keep my chin up, I remain a bit ambitious, and a bit exhausted. The crew helps maintain a high morale. Together we have push-up, dip, and plank competitions just to stay warm. We move as much as possible to keep our viscous blood flowing. One of us is on disc jockey duty at all times, the array of music from each of our libraries impressive. I can’t get myself to take a nap; not even close. I am switched on in every way. For six days we average 64 miles a day at 6.1 knots. We travel in daylight and pull into marinas weeks before they open. We are alone. It’s not until Detroit we see another sailboat. Nothing but frigid water, three freighters and one ferry. The crew and I find a rhythm and I am satisfied from the inside out with our

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Deseiree’s Great Adventure operation. We make it to Detroit on schedule for crew change, but part of me isn’t ready for them to leave. The next crew arrives tomorrow, my “Spice Girl” crew…starring Katie Smith and two of my other best girlfriends. LAKE ERIE: Sailing through Lake Erie with my girls, my Spice Girls, our travels are congruent with a blockbuster film. A classic yawl, chock-full of women, sailing through the freezing cold is not your average sight to see around here. We have no audience. There is still no one around. Katie has taken some stress off of my shoulders. We operate well together and always have. She’s a good helm, and an even better entertainer. We are her full-time audience. The band agrees to sail overnight, 138 miles to the entrance of the Welland Canal. I hide my nerves, which I tend to do well. Katie helms us opposite the inviting sunset, and we watch the weather make its transition from delight to chaos. The sky is breathtaking. The forecasted westerly wind is about to kick in. When it does I take the helm. A consistent 35 knots of wind is at our back, gusting to 42. The night gets black. We are flying forward at record speeds. I am focused. On a mission. I am so tense I can feel my neck and shoulders winding themselves into knots. We arrive in Port Colbourne 24 hours later. Red eyed and rough around the edges, we check in with Canadian customs and purchase a pass to lock through the canal. The Welland canal is 28 miles long, with eight locks that drop you 326 feet into Lake Ontario. Canal traffic calls for us and two other pleasure craft to lock through together. When they call you to go - you go. None of us expected a nighttime operation. The wind

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Conquering the Great Lakes

The band agrees to sail overnight, 138 miles to the entrance of the Welland Canal. I hide my nerves, which I tend to do well. Katie helms us opposite the inviting sunset, and we watch the weather make its transition from delight to chaos. The sky is breathtaking. The forecasted westerly wind is about to kick in. When it does I take the helm. A consistent 35 knots of wind is at our back, gusting to 42. The night gets black.

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What’s Out There?

The new Silent 55 Cruiser from Solarwave is made for cruising, using only solar power to keep her going! Silent, inexpensive, and totally renewable energy! In the rare case that the sun is not shining for several days, the range-extender is a safe and reliable power-source that guarantees fully charged batteries. Thus a Silent is always entirely independent from the weather. As soon as the sun is shining again, the batteries will be filled up noiselessly and for free. This saves large amounts of fuel and money. It’s also, as the name implies, silent!

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Solar Power Cruiser

What really sets this boat apart from a conventionally powered motor or sailing catamaran is that this boat is significantly less expensive to buy, and maintenance costs are extremely low. There’s almost no maintenance work to do at all. Your operational costs are also minimal, and you get the highest level of security and reliability with redundancy for every vital system. If you’ve been waiting for a reliable solarpowered cruiser, this could just be it. If you want more info go to: http://www.solarwaveyachts.com.

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Solarwave Silent 55 Cruiser

Get all the facts: www.solarwave-yachts.com Solarwave Silent 55 Cruiser LOA 54’ 8” Draft 2’ 1” Beam 27’ 7” Power 2 x 25 kW e-motors Fuel 2X300 liter “range extender” fuel Fresh Water 500 Liter Waste water Tankage 445 Liter Displacement 14,1 Ton www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Welcome to the Black Sea, where the forecast is not what you are going to get. As a lot of freighter captains, big fishing boat captains and tugboat captains all told us, the Black Sea is some of the worst sailing they have ever encountered. It is called “Black” on purpose. It was early morning and Chuck was checking the weather while Patty started breakfast. After checking his normal forecast he looked at Patty and said, “Well, it won’t be comfortable, but doable if we are going to be in Sochi, Russia on the day our visa begins.” Patty asked how bad and Chuck replied, “We’ve done worse, but it is not really nice.”

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We finished breakfast and Chuck stepped into the cockpit and down to the dock, only to be greeted by the tugboat captain on the tug tied up next to them. The captain knew we wanted to leave so he asked, “Leaving today?” Chuck said yes, but the weather was a bit iffy. The captain laughed and said, “You are not going anywhere today,” and pointed to the breakwater in the

By Chuck & Patty Ritenour/Ridgway

Sailing Russia

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Boat parade with lite winds to honor Russian Navy

Yacht SoulMates tied up in Sochi, Russia

far distance. Chuck looked and all he could say was wow, as the sea was breaking over the breakwater. The tugboat captain laughed and said he couldn’t leave today and even a freighter scheduled to leave today couldn’t. Chuck went back on board and contacted our agent to cancel our early afternoon departure for Sochi, and then emailed the agent in Sochi and told him we were not coming and would contact him with our arrival date when we had one. Welcome to the Black Sea, where the forecast is not what you are going to get. A lot of freighter captains, big fishing boat captains and tugboat captains all told us, the Black Sea is some of the worst sailing they have ever encountered. It is called “Black” on purpose. So why go there? For us it was a place on the map that

almost no one goes to, difficult, and because we had not been there. As we sat in Turkey for the winter we said hey, let’s go to Russia. Getting the cruising guides for the Black Sea we found that even the authors had not been to Russia. Chuck took a look and said Russia sounded like a place we should go, while Patty asked why do we want to go there? Chuck, in the usual sound sailors logic said, because we have not been there. Case closed, we are going. That was the easy part. Doing a lot of research and work we found we needed a visa. We have one of those USA passports that, like American Express, is accepted almost all over the world, without a visa. Okay, so we go to the Russian Embassy and get a visa, right? It is not that easy. First, you need an invitation from a

The approach to Sochi

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Li f es tyl e A Look at Why We Do What we Do

Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Lifestyle section folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Lifestyle@Cruisingoutpost.com.

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Tory Rubin on the beach in Bequia trying to have fun... and achieving it! Nice hat!

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: e c a s Pl

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erg

Freedb

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On February 27, 1762, the General Court of Massachusetts made a grant to Governor Francis Bernard. In September of that same year, the Governor visited the island to view his new possessions. “Came to Neskeag Point, thirty miles from Ft. Pownall. Found several vessels there, among which was schooner with my surveyors on board, who left Boston five days before me. Took them on board and with a pilot proceeded for Mount Desart. Arrived there at 3 o’clock, but the wind being against us we were two hours turning into the harbor. At first we came into a spacious bay formed by land of the great island on the left and of the Cranberry Islands on the right. Toward the end of this bay, which we call the Great Harbour, we turned into a smaller bay called the Southwest Harbour. This last is about a mile long and three fourths of a mile wide.”

“Hello, come right in,” boomed a friendly voice in response to my tentative knock on Ashley Bryan’s door. Thus I entered a magical place on Little Cranberry Island in Maine. I was alone on JUDY, my 1984 Ericson 38, on my way home during my annual September cruise. I left Hingham, just south of Boston, on Saturday morning, motored to Gloucester for the night and on Sunday sailed for the next 24 hours or so downwind, first with the spinnaker and then wing and wing with the main and Yankee to Winter Harbor just beyond Bar Harbor.

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There’s This Place:

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George T

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e Town, Great Exuma, Bahamas by Lea Ann Rock

There are few cruising destinations that offer as many forms of entertainment and conveniences as George Town on the island of Great Exuma in the Bahamas. The crew of S/V Nomad heard tales about George Town many years before our first trip to the Bahamas. The sailors describing this harbor called it “Chicken Harbor.” I didn’t like the sound of the name and asked the meaning. We were told George Town was a place people going south to the Caribbean stopped and ended their cruise. The anchor-challenged sailors stayed because they were too scared to finish their journey.

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Tech Tips

from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop There are a lot of little things that can make your boat easier to use and more enjoyable. Here are some tips from Paul Esterle, the author of Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop. More can be found at www.captnpauley.com.

Cabinets and Storage Lockers the Easy Way Many boats don’t have enough storage spaces, especially in the galley. Additional handholds are also often needed. One solution is to integrate these needs into a combined stanchion/galley cupboard over the galley sink. As with any major project of this sort, building some prototype cabinets out of 3/16” thick artists foam board will firm up dimensions and designs.

The foam board prototype is mounted in position over the galley sink so we could check for sight lines and clearances.

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The substrate is MDO plywood covered with laminate. This is high-end plywood with exterior glue and few, if any, voids. Once both sides of the plywood are laminatecovered, proceed to cut out the individual cabinet panels, using the foam board prototype for the dimensions. You can cut the panels to size using a guide clamped to the panel and a ball-bearing follower bit in a router. The panels are screwed together from the inside, using cleats in each corner.

The finished galley sink cabinet mounted on its supporting stanchions.

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Tech Tips from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop The finished cabinet awaiting doors. The wiring inside the cabinet is for a fluorescent light fixture underneath the cabinet. The notch on each outside corner of the cabinet is filled pieces of mahogany stock and then rounded off the outside corners. The cabinets are designed to use stock teak doors, available from marine suppliers. The resulting cabinets are quick to make, reasonably priced, look great and are easy to keep clean. Use these techniques to expand your belowdeck storage spaces.

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The Bosun’s Bag Hard To Find “Stuff” For The Cruiser

Television! Reg $39. a set

While they last

$20. a set

www.

bobbi

FTW Publishing Box 100 Berry Creek, CA 95916

tchin.

com

Add $2.75 Postage for First set and $1.50 For each Additional

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You can’t hide a piece of broccoli in a glass of milk

The Real Video Story Behind Captain Bob:

Other People’s Paradise DVD

The story of one man’s escape from civilization to the world of cruising. This is the story of how Latitudes & Attitudes came into being. Never boring. A look into what the reality of cruising is all about. 48 Minutes.

Now on DVD Reg $29.95

Now just $19.95 www.bobbitchin.com Wanna Cheat? Here are the answer to this issues Maritime Crossword Puzzle. Go ahead, no one will know.. except you! on Page 183

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