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SPOTLIGHT Winter 2015-16

#13

Catalina 445 Bavaria Open 40 Catamaran North Paciﬁc 45 Trawler

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In this is

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PURPOS Most oth E! e magazin r boating es have 65% ads over .

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People Who Helped Us Create This Issue Bob Adamov Capt. Robert Beringer Capt. Jim Cash Bill Cook Ekaterina Golovina Terri Potts-Chattaway Lauri Hamilton Capt. Woody Henderson Dave Schaefer Robert Scott Carolyn Simmons John Simpson Marty Smith Morgan Stinemetz Jessica Zevalkink

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This Issue’s Cover: A young lady named Heather sent us this photo for the Lifestyle section. It kinda says it all about the cruising lifestyle, so we decided to use it for our cover! It was taken aboard S/V Cerridwen in Benicia, California. Cerridwen is Welsh and means “the keeper of the cauldron of knowledge.” Next issue goes on sale March 3, 2016 Printed in the USA

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Issue #13 Winter 2015/2016

Contents

Stuff in this issue The Whole Nine Yards In Quest of Her Name Crossing Cultures A Tale of Two Cities by Boat Featured Cruiser - Indigo, a Celestial 48 Going Steady - Stabilized Binoculars Arbroath Sea Fest 2015 Two Days in Paradise The Magical Allure of the Benson Ford

12 20 56 62 68 86 94 126 132

56 Regular stuff in this issue Attitudes Cruising Outpost News Another Way What’s Out There: New Boat Designs Lifestyle Flotsam & Jetsam Book Review CO Events & News Trouble With Treb Life Aboard Cruising Outposts I Found it at the Boat Show Weather by Lee Tech Tips Bubba Whartz Talk of the Dock Mackie White Cruisians Parting Shot

Bob Bitchin Tania Aebi

Capt. Jim Cash Rich Marker Robin Stout

Lee Chesneau Captain Pauly Morgan Stinemetz Zuzana Prochazka

8 28 46 50 74 100 138 143 152 154 156 160 164 166 168 170 191 192 193

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CRUISING OUTPOST (USPS 011-950) IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY BY CRUISING OUTPOST, 9353 Oroville Quincy Hwy, Berry Creek, CA 95916. Periodical Postage paid at Berry Creek, CA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CRUISING OUTPOST, PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416.

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Attitudes “A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for.” - Rear Admiral Grace Murray Hoppe-

By Bob Bitchin

We were sailing from Suverov Island to Pago Pago on Lost Soul and it was dark. Very dark. It was also raining, and to top it off the winds were pretty much on our nose and running 25-30 knots steady Oh yeah, and there was some kind of weird lightning to accompany it all. It was about 2:00 a.m. and I was on watch. Jody and our two young Canadian crew, Luke and Joel, were down below trying as hard as they could to sleep. All of a sudden I felt my heart tighten as I saw a 10’-12’ breaking wave, in a lightning flash, just about 1500 yards directly in front of us. I had checked the charts before going on watch and there was an atoll that was located in the area, but the charts I had were from data collected in the 1800s. Since I was using Loran for my navigation (this was in 1991) it was pretty accurate, at least compared to when the charts were made. I’d read the small note on the charts that said that locations could be as much as 1500 to 2000 meters off position, but I didn’t figure they’d be this far off. I was wrong! I remember how it felt to slap the autopilot into the off position and turn hard to port. I had adjusted for an estimated two-mile leeway between the south end of the submerged reef, but obviously I had not left enough of a margin.

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Pleasant? No, not really, but I can tell you this, I was alive. There is no doubt about that. I felt the winds, the way the boat lurched, and as the boat jumped to the port I could see another wave breaking. If we’d stayed on the original course we would have hit the reef. That feeling, the quickening of my heart, the thoughts that sped thru my mind about what could have been, that is living life to its fullest. Yes, it would have been safer to have stayed in my home port, taking the boat out when the weather was fair. But being out there, I felt alive. Did I plan to be in a situation like that when I tossed off the dock lines? No way! That’d be nuts, right? But when you are out at sea you are living life to its fullest. Things will come up that will test you, and that testing, and the fulfillment you feel as you handle what is thrown in front of you is what makes a full life. I have always lived by “attitude is the difference between ordeal and adventure,” but there is a derivation on that which is equally true. “The difference between an ordeal and an adventure is time!” Looking back on that evening so long ago, I remember thinking that perhaps I’d bitten off more than I could chew. But a week later, sitting in the Pago Pago Yacht Club, the telling of that “adventure” made it all the more sweet!

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The Whole Nine Yards Two Girls + One Dog + One 27-Foot Boat Part VI The Hudson River By Jessica Zevalkink

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fter a week in the Jungle, we made it back to Louise who was patiently awaiting us on a mooring ball in Great Kills Harbor, Staten Island. We left her alone to ride out the remnants of Hurricane Arthur while we road-tripped to Cape Cod to drink Mudslides. She had never looked so beautiful when I climbed back aboard. I don’t know if my idea of beauty came from the high velocity rain that washed her a kind of clean I had never seen, or if it came from my genuine care and longing to be back home. The sound of silence was so nice. Better than Simon & Garfunkel could sing it to you live. What occurred to me while sitting in the cockpit after a week in the city was how slow and how quiet I had become in comparison to most. I moved slower. I thought slower. I ate slower. I drank slower. I made decisions slower. I formed opinions slower. And usually I felt no need to be anywhere but exactly where I was. When surrounded by people who were quick to boredom, anxious and on the move, my calmness stood out. But the fact that I became easily overwhelmed also stood out. I hated the idea of sharing air with millions of other people and could barely walk into a crowded grocery store without having to leave. A week in the city was how I imagined running a marathon and always being in last place. I couldn’t keep up and kind of wanted to puke. The moment I was back on Louise I was in my safe place. When I was at last outside of the Jungle and looking back at it, everything made sense. It’s always nice when mother nature storms in unannounced to remind you that she is boss. I found myself a little jealous of her. I wished I was capable of that. But who was I kidding? I didn’t know how to open my mouth when my feelings were hurt, let alone speak up when I thought I was right and Katie (or anyone else for that matter) was wrong. I’m still working on that. There was an anchorage just around the corner from the Statue of Liberty where we dropped trow (the anchor) with a generous amount of space in between us, a breakwall, rock pilings, and two other sailboats. You could also say it was the only place left in the anchorage to anchor. Checking the radar several times

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throughout the day, the blob on the screen looked harmless and no different from every other blob we often found ourselves in. Honestly, we thought nothing of it. We were safely anchored with our trusty Bruce and plenty of room to swing. Moments away from falling asleep that night, Louise became abruptly unsettled. She began to communicate to us by making loud rackets and jolting around her leash like a puppy who had to poop. Katie gave the radar one last check to see that the blob was directly overhead. Before either of us could even get out of bed, Louise began violently twisting and fighting the anchor. I think she was shitting. I turned on the VHF WX to listen to current local conditions as if being right in the middle of it wasn’t giving me answers. The voice crackling through the speaker advised all boaters to seek shelter. Fifty-five mile-per-hour gusts and hail. Huh? Katie leapt out of bed to let out more scope. I rolled out shortly behind her and started glowing the plugs. If we drug anywhere at all, it was not going to be pretty. It was too late to relocate. It was too late to set another anchor. Sure, we could have dropped our old, weightless Danforth over the side for cheap insurance. However, the velocity of wind made the Danforth seem like a worthless toy. The squall was on top of us and we were below in its mercy. Whoa. When I say the wind came up quick, I mean it. We both scrambled around the cockpit, grabbing any loose items that could soon be abducted and chucked them down below. We pushed back the bimini to prevent it from acting as a sail, looked to the right and saw one of the other two

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Entering the Jungle via the Staten Island Ferry

Saying good-bye to the Atlantic as we enter the New York Sound

Sunrise behind “The Jungle” welcoming us to the Hudson River

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The Whole Nine Yards sailboats had drug anchor and was smashing up against the nearby cement wall. No one was aboard. Oh sweet baby Jesus, were we next? Whipping back and forth 90 degrees, I had visions of our anchor line chaffing and then snapping at the weight of Louise’s tight grip. If not that, surely we would drag as well and end up over yonder with a new next door neighbor. Almost immediately I turned the engine on. It wouldn’t have been more than 30 seconds to blow into a house-sinking situation. For over an hour I had Louise in forward gear, steering towards the anchor in hopes of relieving tension on the line. Katie and I sat in the cockpit in our foul weather gear driving Louise in the rain, going nowhere. We held Louise into the wind with just enough throttle to “The hills are alive with reduce aggressive whiplash. the sound of music” on the Sweating in my foul weather Hudson River, NY gear, I was more soggy from nerves than I was rain. We didn’t drag. We stayed right where we dropped trow in the first place. Katie clocked 45 knots on the wind finder. We had a new-found faith in our ground tackle. Louise, Bruce, Katie and Reggie... you did well. It was scary. And we should have been keeping a keen eye on the radar. That’s all. The next morning Katie kayaked Reggie to shore. The sailboat that had been bashing into the wall was still afloat. She described it as having been “lucky.” The bowsprit cracked, remaining attached only by the connection to the forestay. The seam where the deck meets the hull was split open. Abrasions covered the hull. Still, no one was on board. It was obvious its owner, wherever he or she was, was completely unaware of the situation. Quietly we pulled away from Liberty Park the following morning on just a few hours of rest. The blue, purple, orange and yellow sky seemed to make everything okay again and we pointed the bow towards the skyscrapers. Passing by the Big Apple and entering the Hudson River while the sun rose is one of those memories easily confused with a dream. I took in its splendor as a reward for making it through the previous night’s disaster. The colors backlit the skyline; the river calm before any

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boats disturbed it’s surface. The tide from the Atlantic pushed us towards the Great Lakes in a direction we still questioned. I felt so small and unnoticed next to the rigid buildings where millions of humans were just waking up. Both of us had been to New York City a handful of times, but this time it was different. Like we were in outer space exploring life on another planet and did not, at all, understand how those millions of people could survive that way. I don’t mean that in a rude way. We just felt like foreigners. We were used to our inconvenient way of life. It was all we knew. I didn’t recall anyone telling me that the Hudson River was going to be like reliving a scene from “The Sound of Music.” I could hear Julie Andrews singing from the depths of the hills, mountains, cliffs, forests, castles, winding through a river and cutting through canyons. Are we in Austria? Where are we? I had never heard anyone talk about the Hudson River with enthusiasm. Were they trying to keep it a secret? Or was I just never listening? I love surprises. I finally started to feel like myself again. Like I was living the life of a musical where everyone sang instead of spoke, coming back down several notches after running around the East Coast trying to keep up with people that moved a lot quicker than me. The speed of life was slowing back down to where I was most pleased - to that of no one’s but Katie’s and my own. But let’s be honest, Louise set the pace, not us. A 35-year-old woman, who traveled at five knots in her prime, dictated what could be accomplished in a single day. It was safe to say that for us girls to work in harmony with Louise, Katie and I had to tack on 10 years of patience and understanding. We must have all been on the same page, because if we weren’t, one of us wouldn’t be in the picture anymore. Shortly after Catskill, New York, there are bridges on the Hudson River, Erie Canal, and Trent-Severn waterway with a vertical clearance of 22 feet, meaning that the mast on our boat, with a vertical clearance just shy of 40 feet, must come down in order to travel that direction. This was a process we also had to go through in the beginning of our trip to motor down the rivers. But that time, we

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Part VI - The Hudson River Not sure who is doing the work here, unstepping the mast at Hop’O’Nose Marina, Catskill, NY

shipped the mast on a truck with all of its working parts. This, in return, left us with an empty “patio” ... extending our living space with more room for activities like handstands, cartwheels, guitar playing and fishing. A few days up the Hudson and all of a sudden I was hiding behind a tree holding back my tears. I couldn’t help but think about how childish I was being, but I literally couldn’t help it. Before I even had the chance to register what we were actually doing at the marina in Catskill, NY, the backbone of Louise was being hoisted up by a large crane and surgically repositioned sideways on the deck. Straps, ropes, stays, spreaders, and a large wooden cradle had completely taken over our home. We couldn’t walk anywhere on the deck; it was a confusing mess that interrupted everything we did. Our already tiny living space had just been cut in half. An

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impenetrable maze, the large wooden cradle embracing the mast, took away any nautical beauty, replacing it with an imaginary sign saying “En route to Burning Man.” Embarrassed, I tried not to let my friends, who had driven over from Brooklyn, see my swollen eyes. Katie saw them though, which was fine because I knew the Relaxing with emotion was shared. I was friends and trying so sad about having to the not to cry after take the mast down again having to become a and to have to function in motor boat again a ridiculous booby trap. In retrospect, I think I was just sad that it meant we were one step closer to completing the circle. So yes. I am the first to admit that my emotions got the best of me after our beautiful sailboat transformed into a sadlooking trailer. About a week after, we pulled up to a dock and met a singlehanding man who had been cruising for 14 years. Without me even touching base on the subject, he mentioned how

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The Whole Nine Yards

Part VI - The Hudson River

he teared up when his mast was un-stepped recently. I snuck through layers of cotton and fleece. Burr. I loved smiled and felt like less of a “girl” knowing that a grown goose bump weather. I loved the frosty windows and man also got emotional over this part of life aboard. numb fingers tingling at the grip of a hot cup of Joe. The After smashing our foreheads into the wooden cradle, last time I’d felt that fabulous dry chill was at altitude in stubbing toes on newly the Rocky Mountains. exposed hardware and Speaking of tripping over ratchet altitude, we were straps enough times, we gaining it and losing it learned our way around in dozens of feet as we the maze. Sometimes traveled through a series watching Reggie defeat of locks. Every couple all the traps taught us the of miles, large doors best way to move about, opened, welcoming but accurate hand and foot Louise into a chamber placement was discovered similar to how I imagine Counting down mainly via injuries. prison. Except this the locks until Docking, locking, prison was kind of reaching the and anchoring with 10 fun. Upon entering the Great Lakes under feet of over-hanging mast large cement box and Captain Reggie’s was our biggest obstacle. connecting to vertical supervision But just like every other cables, a pool of water obstacle, we figured it out. elevated us with ease. The Hudson River continuously captivated us. It was For a while the locks were an entertaining way to break incredible. So much so that the little things just didn’t up the day... but once we realized the hours spent were matter anymore. Like the dry, crumbly muffin, fraction becoming greater than miles traveled, we stopped looking of stale bagel and brown forward to the delays. Bored, and ready for happy hour by the sixth banana that fell apart in Hours passed like lock of the day my lap for breakfast. Or minutes. Miles passed like the plunger on the toilet years. Two deer, a bald that broke again. Not even eagle, and a fox exposed having to bleed the diesel themselves on a rural engine every few days walk up a winding hill bothered me anymore. I outside a town I cannot was too delighted with even pronounce. Lock the current scenery to walls became our parking complain about my rock star lot every night on the Erie breakfast, broken plumbing, Canal, free of charge. Fresh unreliable engine and the water in the canal had obstacles on deck. I got Louise’s raw-water-cooled excited about warm beer and engine joyously chugging crawling into bed to watch “Friday Night Lights” at 7:00 along. The parts of her engine that had turned green and p.m. The nights however, were starting to get cold. blue with corrosion from the ocean’s salt, faded. The sun in the morning was often as bright and Only 18 more locks until reaching the Great Lakes. obnoxious as the one on “Teletubbies”’ who wore the face of The thought alone made the corners up my mouth turn a yapping baby. The air was so chilly that Katie and I both upwards even though every day we still talked about had leggings, hoodies, and slippers on for the first time since turning around. The only woman who missed saltwater I could remember. The bimini was pushed back to feel the on this ship was Katie. Fresh water meant two things - we warm sun through our clothing, simultaneous to cold air that were almost always clean, and we were almost home.

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10/25/1510:48:36 11:46 AM 10/7/2015 AM

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To order, call 800.348.2769 or visit us online at Sailrite.com

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The 2016 Sailrite Marine Catalog has everything you need to turn your project ideas into DIY reality. It contains over 200 pages of how-to articles, tools, hardware, fabric and supplies for your boat. Request your FREE copy today at Sailrite.com/catalog-request.

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In Quest of Her Name: Across Anchored in the bay of the deserted Putsaari Island.

t was August in Saint-Petersburg, Russia; a bit grey, showing the ﬁrst signs of Autumn. I was just back from my summer vacations and the two remaining weeks did not promise to be a lot of fun. “Hey, are you busy?” my friend Oleg called and asked me one morning. “We’re here in the Baltic Yacht Club, preparing a boat for a round-the-world cruise. Come by!” Who would say no?! And here I was, on the Baltic seaside of the city where I met the captain, Alexey Fofashkov, an experienced sea wolf. He had built a career from deckhand to master mariner and had the toughest round-Scandinavian yacht cruise behind his belt. The boat was built especially for Alexey and his project. Recently born, she wasn’t christened yet. Some

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captains, Alexey included, believe that it’s a good tradition to baptize a boat. Where should we do that? To the northeast from Saint-Petersburg lies the Ladoga Lake – the biggest in Europe, 219 km long and 138 km wide. Impressive for a lake, isn’t it? The north of it is known among sailors for picturesque skerries and fjords. Valaam is the largest island of the lake and the home to the monastery that leads its history from the 15th century. There, we hoped to get for our yacht both a blessing and a name. The First Quest Saint-Petersburg is spread out in the estuary of the river Neva that runs to the Finnish Gulf in the Baltic Sea. And, it’s the only river that comes from the Ladoga Lake.

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the Ladoga Lake By Ekaterina Golovina We were to sail all 74 kilometers of the Neva with her numerous bridges. At night the wings of the bridges are raised in order to let boats pass. But who wants to sail the narrow course of the river in the dark, surrounded by container ships? Instead, before departure we lowered the mast to the deck. Now we could sail by day. On the 40th kilometer from the estuary we got to the Ivanovsky Rapids. Near Cape Svyatki, for two kilometers, the river narrows down to 210m in width. The current speeds up to 4.5 m/s – a speed worthy of a mountain stream. The Captain hand steered; there were plenty of sandbanks around. In the afternoon of the second day we arrived at the town in the outlet of the Neva, Shlisselburg. Being Sunday, the quay was lively. Kids played and dove into the cool water; romantic couples came there for a sunset drink. Instead of passing the evening leisurely, we were on quest to get supplies for the crossing. “Where’s the center here?” we asked at the mooring. “Here!” the kids shouted to us from the shore. We were neighbors of the fortress Oreshek, meaning the fortress Nut. The fortiﬁcation was built by the people of the Novgorod Republic in 1352. This land was disputable for centuries until Peter the Great put an end to

Sailing north toward the largest island, Valaam.

The fjords of Valaam can’t be compared with Norway, but have their own charm.

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The monastery of Konevets Island.

On Konevets Island our boat received her name.

On a shift with the captain of Tatiana, Alexey Fofashkov.

it, regaining the shore of the Baltic and founding SaintPetersburg in 1703. While on the mooring in Shlisselburg we set the mast back to its place. That was the end of the river cruise and the start of the “big lake” sailing. Mystery Island Every minute the darkness was broken by lightning on the horizon; the north of the lake was overwhelmed by a thunderstorm. By the way, we were heading north. We would sail the whole night, keeping shifts, and count on reaching our destination the next afternoon. At dawn we noticed a silhouette of an island on the horizon. Valaam! Our shift was getting excited! Hmmm, weird, a bit off the course… But in our imaginations we were already treading the sainted soil of Valaam. So, we altered our course to northwest and rushed towards the island. And the wind was favourable! The sails were tight and full with wind. We reach 8.5 knots. The fun ﬁ nished when the captain was awakened for his shift. “That’s not Valaam!” It was just one of 660 islands of the Ladoga. And that’s not counting rocks. We headed north again. No blessing is free. The island greeted us with rocky capes, golden cupolas of its churches, and a guarded harbour. To moor we had to wait until the end of the service in order to ask permission or, in vernacular, “blessing.” Valaam is picturesque and mysterious. Sketes and shrines are scattered all over the island. Every day crowds of tourists come to have a look at a functioning monastery – 217 monks live here permanently. The transport system on the 9 km-long island is well established. Taxis and taxi buses will drive you to the other part of Valaam, and motor boats take you to neighbouring islands. From time to time we came across private cars and horse carts. The

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most impressive are Land Rovers on narrow dirt The fortress Nut locks the entrance to the biggest roads - Orthodox priests lake of Europe. hurrying from one service to another. Here we had planned to christen our boat. Forget about it! We were supposed to pay for that and the queue was more than a month long! Next time… Hospitality of Northern Nature We went deep into Ladoga skerries, through narrow straights between rocky islands. Karelian nature is amazingly hardy. Scraggy birches and pines perch on naked stones - ten centimeters of soil is enough for their growth. For the last several days the wind stayed south. That’s the prevailing direction for it in Ladoga. Keep it that way and it would make our way back a nightmare. But we were lucky and the wind changed to north. Still, the weather was getting worse and autumn is turbulent on Ladoga. The lake is notorious for its storms with wind speeds up to 66 knots! For the ﬁrst night we found asylum from furious waves in a peaceful harbour on the island of Putsaari. Monks live there in solitude. They didn’t welcome us for a chat, so we devoted ourselves to mushroom hunting.

The mast was down passing under the Petersburg bridges.

The Bridges of Saint-Petersburg.

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The Valaam Monastery remembers the 15th century.

There’s dozens of sketes scattered around the main monastery on Valaam Island.

The Lord Works in Mysterious Ways Waves in the darkness were like mad ghosts. Lightning split the sky above us. Due to bad weather, we were late to leave Putsaari and were forced to sail overnight to our next destination, the Konevets Island. Suddenly a scratching noise! The yacht shivered and stopped with a jolt. Goodness, we had sanded! Now we could clearly see the silhouette of the desired island. So close, but no way to reach it - the yacht was stuck! The next four hours we tried all the possible ways to ﬂoat off: sails and engine, the skeed, “playing elephants” - rushing simultaneously from board to board. Nothing worked! We had the last and the most efﬁcient method - a tug boat from Konevets. The next morning, full of shame, we were delivered to the harbour of Konevets Island. There, the priest agreed to baptize our boat… for free! The yacht was christened Tatiana. “The Lord works in mysterious ways.” On Valaam, we couldn’t pass through the ceremony and needed to sand the yacht to arrange it. Tatiana in the anchorage.

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10/25/15 12:12 PM

Teachers open the door, but you must enter the room by yourself.

Scuttlebutt

All the news that fits

The bow

Deck View

The Brigantine Matthew Turner

Matthew Turner Update The Educational Tallship Foundation is ahead of schedule building the new Matthew Turner. She is a 100’ Brigantine traditional wooden tall ship. When finished she will serve as an experiential learning platform for Bay Area youth. The vessel, when complete, will be operated by the Call of the Sea, who has been successfully operating on-the-water programs since 1984. The proceeds from every Cruising Outpost Cruisers’ Party raffle go to help finish this project!

Nautical Trivia

So, pretty much everyone (even non-sailors) knows the term “mayday” and that it’s used when making an emergency call for help, but why mayday? Who knows the origin of the term? (Wanna cheat? The answer is on page 43)

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11/3/15 11:11 AM

PERFORMANCE BREATHABLE BOOT

Grab handles for easy use

Fully taped waterproof and highly breathable membrane technology

Ankle impact protection Unique lightweight TPU molded base for complete waterproofing

Non-marking and non-slip outsole with unique repeat design surrounded by deep multi-directional water dispersal channels to prevent aquaplaning

WE HAVE SPENT TWO YEARS OF RESEARCH AND TESTING TO CREATE THE ULTIMATE BREATHABLE BOOT. USING OUR UNIQUE COMBINATION OF A TPU LIGHTWEIGHT MOLDING, IN CONJUNCTION WITH OUR BREATHABLE LAMINATE MEMBRANE, WE CREATED A COMPLETELY WATERPROOF AND DURABLE BOOT. THE EXCLUSIVE GILL SOLE, WITH ITS UNIQUE REPEAT DESIGN, PROVIDES UNPARALLELED GRIP AND FLEXIBILITY ON DECK. WE HAVE EVEN ADDED GRAB-HANDLES TO MAKE THEM QUICK AND EASY TO PULL ON.

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GILLNA.COM

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10/25/15 12:52 PM 7/29/2015 1:43:15 PM

Scuttlebutt

New Boat Show Staff Bob and Jody will be joined at the boat shows by Jessie and Katie from “The Whole Nine Yards.” Here they are, working at the Annapolis Boat Show in October: (from left to right) Jessie Zevalkink, Bob Bitchin, Katie Smith and Jody “Mo” Bitchin. Stop by and say “Hi” at these shows: Chicago Power & Strictly Sail Show, Miami International Boat Show, and the Pacific Strictly Sail Show.

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Offshore Passage Opportunities Donates Moorings for Dominica Fifty moorings are being donated to the island of Dominica by OPO members, who donated over $20,000 to this effort. All boats in the Caribbean are invited to their Yachtie Appreciation Week Feb. 14th to the 21st to publicize the fact that Dominica has a new mooring field this year. Cruising Outpost readers who might be cruising the area are invited to join the party!

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11/3/15 11:11 AM

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10/25/15 1:08 PM

Jimmy’s New Boat

Jimmy Buffett will be taking delivery of Hull #1 of Friendship Yacht Company’s new Surfari 44. Designed by Ted Fontaine and built by Pacific Seacraft in NC, the new boat is fast under sail and power (twin 75 HP auxiliary engines!) and features a luxury indoor/outdoor living platform which includes an 11-1/2 foot wide “tailgate.” How appropriate! The tailgate integrates with a single-level floor plan that extends from the swim platform through the entire length of the deck salon and steering station, allowing plenty of room to store and launch water toys. Sounds like a fun boat. Wonder what he’ll name it?

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www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/3/15 11:12 AM

Ultimate

Tank to Engine Fuel Protection FilterBOSS Commander

60, 90, 180 Gallons Per Hour Fuel Flow Models Available • Dual Filter System (Racor Turbine Series) • Fuel Polishing • Easy Filter Replacement • Remote Clogged Filter Warning • Remote Operation (Optional) • Fuel System Testing (Air Leaks & Operation)

• • • • •

Back up Fuel pressure Marine Grade Stainless Steel Parts Powder Coated for Durability Vacuum Gauge/Pressure Gauge NEMA 2000 Compatible

FC 60 V

Fuel Polishing Systems for Tight Spaces FPM 60, 90 & 180 (Polishing) Gallons Per Hour Models Available Our new compact FilterBoss fuel polishing modules (FPM) are designed to fit into tight engine compartments. They have such a small footprint that many boat owners will now be able to install a filtration system where traditional units would have never fit before. This allows them to take advantage of KTI’s advanced onboard fuel polishing to virtually eliminate fuel contamination, the number one cause of engine problems.

FPM Series 60

60 Gallons Per Hour (Polishing)

Don’t Leave Shore Without It 800.336.0315 • www.ktisystems.com

Made in the USA

Cruising Outpost 33

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10/25/15 1:14 PM

Scuttlebutt CO is the First Boat Mag on Kindle

If we’d know how hard it was going to be we probably wouldn’t have done it. But we did. The Fall 2015 issue of Cruising Outpost was the first boating magazine to be available on Kindle. Do an Amazon search for “Cruising Outpost,” or just go to the Kindle link on the CO home page. You get all the photos, all the stories and direct links to the advertisers’ sites for those who are shopping! The price for the Kindle version is the same as other download options like PDF or ePub.

You know you are getting older when Happy Hour is a nap.

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11/3/15 11:12 AM

Scuttlebutt

Craneway to Host Strictly Sail Pacific A new location has been found for the Strictly Sail Pacific Show, which has been located at Jack London Square in Oakland for the past 15 years. The Craneway is huge, and the nearby marina has enough room for up to 200 boats! There is a walk along the waterfront between the Pavilion and the Marina, but they will also have transportation available. The seminar rooms are large and will host a number of great free seminars. The Cruising Outpost Cruisers’ Party will be held in a large outdoor area next to the pavilion, and if it rains there is enough space to move the whole party inside! How kewl is that? See you there April 7th thru the 10th.

Flag Talk

This one is a no-brainer for us, and when it comes to no brains, we got ‘em! This flag is part of our logo. Just check the cover, the “P” in Outpost! It means “All personnel return to ship; proceeding to sea” (when used in port).

Scuttlebutt www.cruisingoutpost.com

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11/3/15 11:13 AM

Scuttlebutt Pass the Popcorn

New Mega-Yacht Marina for Anguilla

This sounds like a movie that might be worthy of heading out to the theatre for, or at least putting into your Netflix queue. Christopher Lloyd is staring in a new film about a onetime Merchant Marine who is re-building an old 27’ boat and plans to “sail off into the sunset” against his daughter’s wishes. Building it in his own yard, he takes in a youngster who is seemingly lost, and between them they fight the powers that be, and nature, in order to try and launch the boat before the city destroys it as an eyesore.

The Altamer Resort at Shoal Bay West, Anguilla, is expanding to feature a megayacht marina complex with mixed-use upland development. It will be the first marina resort built in Anguilla and is also slated to include a 164-unit resort, plus duty-free retail shops and a restaurant promenade. Although it’s aimed at “the luxury yachting community” to meet “the rising yachting, shopping and dining demands of highnet worth individuals,” slips will range between 30 feet and 200 feet, so it looks like they plan to make room for some of us regular cruisers too. The project is currently in the final design and development stages.

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Nautical Daffy-nition

“Flashlight”... Tubular metal container used on shipboard for storing dead batteries prior to their disposal.

www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/3/15 11:13 AM

Scuttlebutt A Rose is a Rose - But a Boat Name?

A bad day only lasts 24 hours

A Good Deed Indeed There is a group that has been formed to help keep the maritime heritage alive. The Shannon River Marine Heritage Foundation’s purpose is to give disabled veterans and persons with disabilities of all ages the opportunity to participate and enjoy the therapeutic and curative wonders of the yachting heritage, and to train veterans for meaningful jobs in the marine industry. All of this will take place aboard specially designed mid-sized, fully accessible boats of the highest safety caliber. The foundation is a 501 c(3) non-profit charitable organization and there’s a four-minute video on the website that explains their goals. For more information, check them out at: www.shannon-river-foundation.org.

PFD Recall Mustang Survival has issued a recall for two models of their personal flotation devices: MD315 (sold in Canada) and MD318 (sold in the U.S.). The recall is for the reinforcement of a portion of the bladder assembly that may tear when the bladder lobes are flexed apart while fully inflated. If you have an affected PFD, contact Mustang’s Customer Service Dept. at 1-800-526-0532 for instructions. Do not return it to the place of purchase.

Scuttlebutt www.cruisingoutpost.com

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11/3/15 11:14 AM

Scuttlebutt SSCA Obtains FCC License to Help Cruisers The Seven Seas Cruising Association is establishing an SSCA Voice Service (not a formal net) on the HF radio band to assist cruisers in remote locations who are without cellular and Internet access. The purpose is to relay priority and emergency information and to provide any vessels needing assistance with additional resources. In order to do this they needed a land based radio and antenna system which requires a “Private Coast License” from the FCC. They have been successful in obtaining this and the radio base, which is located in Punta Gorda, FL, is now authorized to operate under the call sign “KPK.” It is tuned for the 8 Mhz marine band and will effectively reach the entire Caribbean and beyond. The SSCA is currently involved in discussions with Chris Parker, Dick Giddings, Rick Medero and other cruisers active on SSB nets regarding the most effective time and frequency to conduct this service. Comments and suggestions from cruisers regarding this proposed service are most welcome. Send them to SSCAVoiceNet@gmail.com.

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11/3/15 11:15 AM

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pg 62 Seatech ad.indd 80

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10/25/15 1:17 PM

Scuttlebutt Free Weather App! Theyr Ltd, a premium weather-forecasting provider, has launched its Digital Precision Weather and Ocean Forecasting app, GRIBview mobile. It delivers a level of weather and ocean forecasting accuracy previously unseen in the mobile market. The GRIBview mobile app provides highly accurate, detailed and dense data which is easily accessible from the Apple iPad. Data is saved within the app so youâ€™ll have access to the weather info while offshore and offline. Itâ€™s free from the Apple Store for the iPad (second generation and newer, as well as all iPad minis) and includes downloads of standard data. An iPhone version is coming soon and high-res data subscriptions to premium weather data packages are also available. You can check it all out at www.theyr.com.

Equal Worth? Maybe Soon! Every day more money is printed for Monopoly than the U.S. Treasury. (But we are starting to catch up!)

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11/3/15 1:02 PM

A YEAR FOR MAKING MEMORIES

We believe the best part of memories is making them. Don’t let next year pass you by. Now’s the time to start new traditions while embracing old ones. Come and experience one of over 30 new additions to our ever-expanding fleet, from our classic Sunsail 38 and graceful 47 to the spacious 51. We’d also love to introduce you to the new star of our fleet, the 404 catamaran – putting in an appearance all over the Caribbean this winter. Pack them full of family and friends (or just a cruise for two!) and set sail on our modern, spacious fleet.

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Cruising Outpost 41 10/22/15 2:50 PM 10/25/15 1:24 PM

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䨀愀渀

嘀愀渀挀漀甀瘀攀爀䈀漀愀琀匀栀漀眀

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匀攀愀琀琀氀攀Ⰰ 圀愀猀栀椀渀最琀漀渀

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⠀㈀㘀⤀ 㤀㐀㤀ⴀ㐀㘀㠀泰挀栀攀猀渀攀愀甀洀愀爀椀渀攀眀攀愀琀栀攀爀⸀挀漀洀泰氀攀攀䀀挀栀攀猀渀攀愀甀洀愀爀椀渀攀眀攀愀琀栀攀爀⸀挀漀洀

pg 42 Lee Chesneau.indd 1

10/29/15 11:49 AM

Scuttlebutt Rally for a Good Cause

Mathmatical Quiz

There are lots of cruising rallies out there and they can be a great way for cruisers to travel to new destinations, providing additional support and safety. But here’s a rally that goes one step further. The biennial CUBAR (Cruise Underway to Baja Rally) voyages from San Diego to La Paz, Mexico and gives participants the opportunity to enrich the lives of the coastal ports they visit. This year’s CUBAR, which left in November, teamed up with the Rotary Club of Bahia de La Paz to bring 10 laptops to the Palapa Society of Todos Santos, an organization committed to optimizing opportunities for the children in their community. If you’re heading to Mexico in 2017, you might want to consider the CUBAR. Visit cubar.org.

Q. If you were to spell out numbers, how far would you have to go until you would ﬁnd the letter ‘A’? A. One thousand

Nautical Trivia

(Answer to question on page 28) “Mayday” is said to have originated from the French phrase “M’aidez” - meaning “Help me.”

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11/3/15 1:03 PM

Scuttlebutt ACTIVE PIRACY REPORT - Operation Atalanta Warship is Working Operation Atalanta Warship ESPS Meteoro Meets Local Seafarers On Wednesday, September 30, 2015, Spanish warship ESPS Meteoro performed friendly approaches with local seafarers in the Somali Basin. After sighting the seafarers in the early morning, ESPS Meteoro’s crew delivered food and drink, as well as giving minor medical assistance to the master of one of the dhows. Operation Atalanta Warship HNLMS Groningen Gives a Local Seafarer Medical Treatment During Meeting at Sea On Saturday, September 26, 2015, Dutch warship HNLMS Groningen, which is currently deployed with Operation Atalanta as part of the European Union’s counter-piracy efforts off the coast of Somalia, gave medical treatment to a seafarer who had suffered a minor injury at sea. Operation Atalanta War Ship ITS Libeccio Meets Local Seafarers at Sea On Friday, September 25, 2015, Italian warship ITS Libeccio took time to meet local seafarers. The team from ITS Libeccio was also joined by a Somali linguist from the Djibouti Coast Guard. During the meeting ITS Libeccio’s team provided the seafarers with food and water, and discussed the issues of piracy in the region.

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11/3/15 11:18 AM

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10/30/15 10:41 AM

Another Way “A low is forming over the Carolinas.” How many stories that end with harrowing rescues-at-sea have begun with, “there is a low forming over the Carolinas?” These words never bode well for a weather forecast, or a good weather window, when setting sail between the East Coast and Bermuda. Anything inclement in the Gulf Stream is best avoided. But, tight schedules and airplane flights for busy people taking a break from real life to do an ocean passage are usually part of the story, why a captain might hear those words, hope for clemency, and head out to sea anyway. So, last May, when I was a couple hundred miles out of Bermuda, on a 15-year-old Beneteau with a tight schedule and five paying passengers aboard, and another boat relayed those very words over the VHF to us—there’s a low forming over the Carolinas—I felt like I’d been dumped into the middle of the worst cliché. When we left Bermuda, the forecast hadn’t been stellar. Headwinds and no wind had been predicted, but nobody had been talking about any lows. Over the Carolinas. The rhumb line from Bermuda to Newport, RI, where we were headed, is almost due north, but because of the location of a big counter eddy in the Gulf Stream and headwinds, our course had been more westerly, on a line set for the entrance to the Chesapeake. It’s never fun, or time efficient, to be heading away from your destination, so, already there was some frustration aboard. It seemed as if our four-to-five-day long passage was turning into five-to-six, flights had to be rebooked, plans modified. Enter a character that was totally new to me: the Delorme In Reach. Jay, one of the crewmembers, had brought along this little orange device and had been sending and receiving 160-character texts to his fan club back in Canada ever since we left Tortola. Between Tortola and Bermuda, they’d been mostly updates to people ashore about our amazing daily runs. South of Bermuda, the trades had given us one 24-hour total of 196 miles, the most I’ve ever done on a sailboat.

46 Cruising Outpost pg 46-47 Another Way.indd 2

As we were participants in a rally, and because we didn’t have any other means of communicating with the fleet, the Delorme also made it possible for shore side folks following our pings online to provide us with updates on how the other boats were doing. So, when news of the low spread around the rally, we knew four of us had taken the westerly tack. One other boat, Athena, was right next door. They had a working SSB on which they were getting routing information from rally HQ, but only a handheld VHF. We were staying within range of each other so they could feed us information from the SSB in return for what we got from the Delorme and Dan. Back in Bermuda, when passageweather.com had been predicting variable and less than ideal conditions, I’d contacted Dan, a friend in NY, who’d made this passage multiple times, who understood what we’d want from him, forecasts that took into account not just the winds, but the Gulf Stream. He knew how to give us updates on what to expect and anticipate on a regular basis. So, when the SSB chatter announced the low, I immediately fired off a text to him for more information about it. He responded within minutes—as far as he could see, there weren’t any lows anywhere. Good, I thought, just a bunch of rally nervous nellies over-thinking and over-worrying something that didn’t really matter. But, the next morning, things had changed. Yes, Dan wrote, indeed there was some trouble brewing to our southeast. Maybe we should tack to the north. No, south. No, east. Or, hold on. Maybe, we should just stop and wait it out. I could hear his fingers panicking as he typed. He didn’t want to give us wrong advice. I knew Dan was a worrywart, which is a good trait for a weatherman advising a Beneteau on its way to the Gulf Stream about to get churned up by a gale. I knew he was worrying himself sick over the information he was delivering. I knew his big time law practice was taking a total back seat to passageweather predictions and studies of every other weather model available online. Texts were being fired back and forth with a tangible escalation of

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

10/30/15 12:31 PM

160-character anxiety that was being relayed to our friends next door, and analyzed. Even though we were having an afternoon of southwesterly winds that made it possible to head toward the north-westerly waypoint that would take us across the Gulf Stream at its weakest and narrowest point, we went hove-to, stopped the boats, for a couple of hours of discussing and weighing options. If we stopped, the worst of the low would pass ahead of us. If we headed more southerly, we’d avoid the stronger winds. Our ideal course would deliver us into a mess. Then came a series of messages from Dan. He’d gone beyond worried to hiring a professional weather router who could tell us what to do! Our orders were to head southwesterly for a certain amount of hours, weather winds of 30-35 knots, possibly with gusts to 40, for about eight hours, then as the low passed, the veering and dying winds would permit us to gradually return to our rhumb line. Athena and I obeyed. Everything above and below decks was battened down, the second reef was put in as the foul weather clouds rolled in and night fell. We followed those directions so closely and throughout the dark and stormy night, the winds picked up, howling and gusting to 40, precisely as predicted. My guys loved it, I saw the biggest grins of the entire trip—broader than after our 196-mile 24-hour run— as they steered, slamming into the swells, ducking when waves crashed into the cockpit. We also kept an eye out for Athena, making sure to not lose her, and again, as predicted, dawn arrived and the clouds began to break.

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Slowly, our buddy boat system disintegrated as we drew apart. Now that the need for information exchanging was over, we could both head for Newport at our own paces, no more Beneteau slowing down for a Swan. As the wind stopped being so fitful and leveled, I knew the enjoyment of our thrilling little ride was entirely due to having had a forecast and knowing what to expect, that when the winds and waves were at their worst, we could know for almost certain, it was truly the worst. And manageable. And exciting. Without a little gale, what would be the point of owning good foul weather gear? Without a gale, how would you get a gale story? And, without a Delorme, how would be able to let our hero Dan know we were okay, and to ask what to expect next? Dying winds and a flat calm for motoring across the Gulf Stream, he wrote. Perfect.

Cruising Outpost 47 10/30/15 12:31 PM

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10/25/15 1:35 PM

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10/25/15 1:35 PM

What’s Out There?

For those who are looking for a roomy catamaran that sails well, the Bavaria Catamaran Open 40 is all of that. Combining the speed of a cat as well as the comfort of a cruising design, this boat is easy to handle and sail. The Open 40 f loor plan allows you to choose an open area when the weather is good, as well as secure comfort in those days when the weather just doesn’t want to cooperate. The twin helm layout

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C atamaran

is unique, offering the skipper great control and visibility under sail and in close quarters, while connected to crew and passengers at all times. For the past 40 years Nautitech has been building fast, strong catamarans in Europe, and Bavaria’s signature fit and finish are incorporated into the Open 40. The boat is now being shown at most of the major sailboat shows, so take time to check it out!

www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/26/15 9:18 AM

Bavaria Open 40

Get all the facts: www.bavariayachts.com Bavaria Open 40 LOA Beam Headroom Draft Power - 2 Volvo Diesels Fuel Fresh Water Displacement www.cruisingoutpost.com

pg 50-51 Bavaria Open 40 Cat.indd 3

39’ 4”’ 22’ 8” 6’ 2” 4’ 5” 30 hp each 118 USG 161 USG 18,739 lb

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10/26/15 9:19 AM

Whatâ€™s Out There?

Power Cruiser

For those who plan on living aboard and cruising, the new North Pacific 45 fills the bill and does it well. The salon offers plenty of living space that has been well utilized. The raised pilothouse gives great visibility and there is a fully covered aft deck. This is a new design incorporating many features proven by her very successful predecessors. She offers very good fuel economy and the reverse rake windshield aids visibility during nighttime cruising and inclement weather. Add to that the beauty of the teak interior and you have a great new cruising design from the folks at North Pacific Yachts.

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10/25/15 12:31 PM

North Pacific 45

Get all the facts: www.northpacificyachts.com

North Pacific 45

LOA 45.8 ft LWL 41.4 ft Beam 13.8 ft Draft 4.56 ft Power (Diesel) Cummins 250 hp Fuel 400 USG Fresh Water 300 USG Displacement 34,000 Bow Thruster Vetus12V / 7.3 hp www.cruisingoutpost.com

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10/26/15 3:51 PM

Whatâ€™s Out There?

The folks at Catalina are responsible for more people in the U.S. getting into sailing than any other boat manufacturer. Their all-new 445 carries on their tradition of style, ease of handling, and maintaining an affordable option for cruisers. The new hull design offers a long waterline and moderate beam with comfortable freeboard, giving the 445 excellent performance potential. The deck is well laid out with a low profile cabin structure, twin helm stations, and a roomy cockpit with a table

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Large Monohull

that seats 4-6. The deck is finished with a traditional diamond-patterned non-skid. The ownerâ€™s cabin is forward for great ventilation and private head access with an electric head and separate shower. The guest cabin is aft with a large comfortable double berth, angled for easy access and greater headroom. Once again Catalina has nailed it with an excellent design that provides plenty of room and is as easy to handle as a much smaller boat.

www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/26/15 9:21 AM

Catalina 445

Get all the facts: www.catalinayachts.com Catalina 445

LOA Hull Length Draft (Fin/Wing) Beam Power - Yanmar Diesel Fuel Fresh Water Holding Tank Mast Height Above Water www.cruisingoutpost.com

pg 54-55 Catalina 445.indd 3

44’ 5” 43’ 3” 6’11”/5’1” 13’ 7” 54 hp 66 USG 179 USG 54 USG 62’10”

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10/26/15 9:22 AM

CROSSING CULTURES:

There are many reasons why we cruise. Some of us love the journey, the adventure and challenge it poses; others prefer the destination. Whether at anchor or in port, we enjoy exploring new places. And all of us, presumably, have a passion for the sea. But deeper than that is our desire for something different than our traditional way of life. We are in search of a time when life was simpler, when we were more in touch with nature and the nature of ourselves. And of course, we are inherently curious, especially when discovering new cultures. Who are these people who live in the tiny coves we visit? How is it they survive with, seemingly, so little? And how do we, as cruisers, find our way amongst them? Are we just another form of tourist, passing through, barely touching the surface? Or are we embracing our new friends, immersing ourselves in their culture, sharing ideas and learning from each other?

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10/25/15 12:27 PM

Willful Simplicity By Terri Potts-Chattaway

This is a story of how one cruising couple crossed paths with the people of San Evaristo and how their lives have been forever altered. Charlotte Baker is a tall woman, strong and self-assured, with a pretty face and a contagious smile. She moves with purpose. The day we meet, her purpose is collecting 150 boxes of household staples, one for each family of San Evaristo. She will cart them back to the village, along with many other gifts from the cruising community, to help make their Christmas just a little bit brighter. This is what Charlotte and her husband, Steve, do. They help the people of San Evaristo, whether building houses, teaching English, or collecting donations like school supplies and clothing. And Charlotte is their advocate. But to hear her tell it, these new friends of theirs have given Charlotte and Steve much more than they have given the villagers. â€œHow did you come to live in San Evaristo?â€? I ask.

www.cruisingoutpost.com

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CROSSING CULTURES We are sitting at the Dock Cafe outside Marina de La Paz. Charlotte tells her story and it begins one night while she and Steve were camping. Steve was reading a magazine. Charlotte leaned over his shoulder and asked what he was reading. It was a sailing magazine. “I think I’m going to buy us a boat,” Steve said. “What do you think about that?” “Do it,” she said. “Do it. Let’s do it,” (despite the fact that she fights the dreaded mal de mer). Two weeks later they bought a Catalina 27’. Steve had always wanted a Catalina 27’ and it was the perfect boat for Charlotte to learn how to sail. They had the boat for about a year when Steve was getting ready to retire and Charlotte was ready to do something different. (Both were in the horse industry. Charlotte trained horses and gave riding lessons. Steve was a farrier and trained horses.) “You know what?” Steve said. “I have always wanted to go on this rally called the Baja Haha. It’s a trip from San Diego to Baja, California.” And, of course, Charlotte replied, “Let’s do it.” “One thing led to another and everything kind of flipped over.” Charlotte told us. They were sitting in the hot tub with a glass of wine and staring at their threebedroom house when they had an epiphany. “What are we doing? We’re supporting furniture. Stupidness! With that they decided, “You know what? Let’s sell it. Everything.” And they did. “Well,” Steve said, “I’m going to have to get us an apartment in Sausilito. I just can’t move you out of this three-bedroom house onto a 27’ boat.” “Yes you can,” Charlotte said. “Let’s do it.” After arriving in La Paz in 2009, Charlotte and Steve did what most cruisers do and sailed into the Sea of Cortez,

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Willful Simplicity

Photo by David Nieuwstad

stopping at anchorages suggested in the cruising guide. On their way in and out of La Paz they always found their way to San Evaristo and one time, due to a Norther, they ended up staying a week. This led to Charlotte making friends with a young woman and her family. She is single with four children and Charlotte and Steve helped to build them a house. This one friendship opened the door to the community. San Evaristo is a small Mexican village 51 nm north of La Paz, population 300. Everyone belongs to one of about a dozen families who have been there for generations. There are two classes of villagers: fishermen and ranchers. The fishermen fish and the ranchers raise burros and cattle for food. The soil is too dry to grow crops. In town there are a few tiendas and there is a water plant and salt pans. The men are nomadic in their work, going where they are needed. The women take care of the home and children. In addition to what the men earn, the government provides a monthly stipend for the women and children. A typical day for the men is work and then a game of soccer in the evening. The women are at home, cooking and cleaning. Some sew and some read,

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CROSSING CULTURES

although books are scarce. The children have school (there are six pre-school/kindergartners and five primary students) and then do what all children do, play. There is no mail, no internet, and there is one satellite phone, so they communicate by VHF radio. The closest medical facility is over an hour away. The priest comes once a month for a formal service. They are prayerful and like most Mexicans, revere Our Lady of Guadalupe. There is no electricity, only solar power. Water is drawn from wells and delivered to the homes. Most

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houses have a large black cylinder on their roof to hold the water. The sun warms it for washing. Gravity brings it down. There are no police, yet there is virtually no crime. This is attributed to all the families being related and there is only one road in and out. If a stranger arrives, everyone knows. Beyond that, if a stranger asks for food, no one would be denied a meal. Charlotte says she is, we are, all welcome in their homes. They will sit back, offering their best chair, their one best cup, their last piece of fruit, and we are welcome to stay and visit until we decide to leave.

Is there a need for more? Certainly. But these people are not bitter, nor do they feel entitled like we see elsewhere in the world. They are grateful for what they have and appreciative of what they are given. They live a simple life. One day a boat of “executive types” was anchored in the bay; the type of vacationer that has two weeks to fit in everything they could possibly do. Steve and Charlotte passed by in their dinghy and the Americans waved them over. “Hello! What are you doing? Where are you going?” one lady asked. “We’re getting water.” “Oh, okay. We have a big watermaker here. Come, get some water from us.” Steve and Charlotte got water from them. “So, what are your plans? What are you doing?” “Getting water,” Steve said again. The woman persisted. “But what are your plans?” Steve just sighed. “We’re getting water.” They just couldn’t comprehend how anyone’s life could slow down to the point that they have no need to make plans; they just take things as they come. “But what is there to do?” the twitchy American continued, not able to accept silence and stillness as a viable option to the frenzied lifestyle we have acquired. And I can see, even in Charlotte, a hint of her former self surfacing when she speaks of her horse-training days. Her body language shifts, contorting her posture and driving her face to a more serious expression. Momentarily gone are her relaxed features and smile that, previously, expressed pure joy.

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Willful Simplicity

It is five years since Charlotte and Steve left California, sailed south and found their way to San Evaristo. “Are you happy?” I ask her. She laughs a hearty laugh, and by that she reveals her truth. “Yes! Oh, yes! My life is rich! These people are rich! Their life is so rich! They are warm and giving. They have welcomed us into their community, no questions asked. Steve and I – we will never want for anything. We will never be without a home. These people will always take care of us. No matter what happens.” I sit back and ponder the beauty of the inner peace I see emanating from Charlotte. It seems as if she has found what she was looking for. The Bakers have discovered a new rhythm to their life; slow and easy. They are connecting with nature and the true nature of their selves living, here in Mexico, in a small village, anchored in the bay of San Evaristo on their Catalina 27’ so aptly named Willful Simplicity.

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A Tale of Two Cities

t’s a problem facing many of my peers who would prefer to be called “vintage” instead of senior. The time to sell the sailboat expressed itself in terms of lack of use and muscle measured against the time and cost of maintenance. It sold. Swallow the anchor and come ashore? NO. Selling a boat expands horizons to Other Peoples’ Boats. We opted to charter small boats to explore the waterways of Europe leading to Venice and the central France Chablis wine country. Two companies dominate the European waterway charter world, le Boat (www.leboat.com), with a U.S. base in Clearwater, Florida, and Locaboat of France (www. locaboat.com), which has 24 boat bases in six countries. We went with 35-footers from le Boat, ﬁne for two couples. Except for the commercial waterways of Germany, no special licenses are required. If your body temperature is somewhere in the 90s, you’re good to go after a tech checks you out on the workings of the craft and then takes you for a short boat handling jaunt.

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There are no tidal currents or bridges to wait out, no complex navigation and no overnight passages out of the sight of land. But there are locks. Bring gloves for handling rough lines. Auxerre, France In France, our boat was a 35-foot Clipper, my favorite in that size range. Equipped with two private cabins with head and showers in each, the galley and dining area are amidships. It has helm positions topside and in the enclosed midship area. The upper deck has a picnic table, chairs and a sun umbrella. Our short trip, just 25km, from Migennes, France to the Chablis wine country near the charming old city of Auxerre was just one of a dozen possible trips originating in Migennes following different canals and rivers. The navigation packet provided by le Boat includes charts and advice on features along the way, including lock hours. Lock keepers in both France and Italy go to lunch at noon or 12:30 for an hour.

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by Boat

A Cruising Sailor Explores European Waterways by Charter Boat By Dave Schaefer

This trip began with a lock a hundred yards from the le Boat base and then, over the next six and a half hours, eight more river and canal locks on a July day with temperatures in the high 80s. Our traveling partners, Leta Finch and Bill Ryerson, are veteran travelers (Billâ€™s passport is thicker than a Michener novel), but were new to boating. Leta, handling bow lines through the locks, was visibly melting by the time we found a spot on the quay at Auxerre. Our spot on the west side of the river was next to a string of restaurants and, towering over them, cathedrals dating back to the 1300s. This is the city side of the Yonne River, connected to the large marina on the east side by

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a pedestrian bridge. The crowded east side offers a big supermarket an easy walk away. Dock space on both sides is managed by the Aquarelle France Marina (www.aquarelle-france.fr, phone (33) (0)386 815455). In the evening a young woman came along, provided tokens that activate shore power and water stations, and charged us 1480 euros per night based on boat length. Auxerre is a beguiling city of about 20,000 that dates back to 930. In addition to the narrow cobble streets winding past cathedrals, they meander uphill to a lively and, of course, fashionable shopping district. With centuries old buildings, clock towers, and mysterious alleyways, Auxerre is a delight few have ever heard of.

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We found the tourist office a block down the quay and booked a 45-minute tour of the city in what looked like an electric stretch Smart Car. Bill also discovered a wine tour of nearby Chablis and booked it for the next day. (Chablis Vititours, www.chablis-vititours.fr, phone 0611478298.) The following day, genial Franck Chretien met us on the pedestrian bridge and in a few minutes by van we were in Chablis village, where everything is about wine. The industry was started here by monks in the 12th century. We tasted Chablis in the vineyards and wrapped up the tour with a walk through Chablis and a tour and more tasting at Domaine Vocoret et Fils, To shorten the trip back, we traveled three hours north to the village of Gurgy and a free public docking area. A

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short walk took us to a great mom and pop restaurant, the Riviere, a small but adequate market, a bakery that also sold pizza, and a beauty shop that lured the women back for a hair wash the next day. At the dock, a staff office opened in the morning and sold tokens for the power and water station. What we thought was a shuttered snack bar opened up at about five for a wine tasting and sale. How civilized. While there we met John and Winnie Eakins of Rochestown, County Cork, Ireland, who were cruising on their beautiful 54-foot red-hulled Dutch Tjalk, or barge, Avesol. Over wine on board they mentioned they also had a winter place in Spain. As this cruise, for us, drew to a close we had to agree with Winnie when she said, â€œWe are living the dream.â€?

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Venice, Italy Piloting a boat around Venice is not merely daunting, it is terrifying. Imagine driving in a major city where there are no traffic lights, no designated streets, only boats instead of cars, and everybody is going fast, kicking up a constant chop. But, as we learned on our week-long trip down the Italian waterways from north of Casale on the River Sile to Venice and its nearby islands, there are ways to avoid the madness. They are called Burano and Murano, island gems waiting to be discovered, explored, and used as a base for visiting Venice. On this trip our traveling partners were Jack and Judy Cummings, who had been with us on our very first le Boat cruise in 2009 through the Burgundy wine country. The boat in this case turned out to be my least favorite 35-footer, a Corvette that had seen better days. With a small rudder and a wheel that took five turns from lock to lock, it handled like one of those bumper cars at the county fair.

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The trip down the river brought us to the one and only lock on this voyage, closed for lunch. Beyond the lock the river widened into a flooded wetland area with channels marked by tepee-like aids to navigation. Le Boat maintains a dock on the island of Mazzorbo, which adjoins Burano by a footbridge at the head of the dock area. Burano is an easy day trip from Casale. Gondoliers were practicing for a weekend race as we approached the difficult dockâ€”a stone wall that angles sharply back from pilings. But Burano is a charmer we did not anticipate; an island on which lace fashions are the specialty and there are no cars or hotels, simply bright blue, red, yellow and green homes and shops along the canals. It is a short hop to Murano, an island that is famous for its beautiful glass objects and factories. Our shoppers went into a trance. The glass industry was once based in Venice, but glass factories kept setting the city on fire and they were kicked out to Murano. Again, no cars, but a nice little marina, Marina Serenelle, a great place to use as a base for Venice. Murano has a second floor supermarket

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over a small shopping gallery not far from the ferry stop. The ferries are basically like a metro bus system in a world where boats, not cars, rule. We never found the le Boat dock on the island of Vignole immediately east of Venice. We were happy to pay about 35 euros per night for our stay in Murano. The ferry to Venice stopped about a block away. Everybody is supposed to love Venice. It was okay. Crowded in September, we were swept along the narrow and winding streets with masses of people from giant cruise ships following tour leaders with flags on sticks. We ate well, bought a few of the masks for which Venice is famous, took a gondola ride under the Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal (off limits to charter boats), and took pictures. Evenings we retreated back to quiet Murano. Waterway cruises are voyages of discovery, and the best discoveries are the out-of-the-way places that were not part of the plan. We found cruisers from Europe and the U.S. who had purchased boats retired from the charter trade, or from private brokers, who spent their

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summers cruising the waterway system from Belgium to the Mediterranean. In fact, I just found a classic doubleended 35-footer for sale in France on the Locaboat web site. Slap some sense into me. This is the time for OPBsâ€Ś Other Peoplesâ€™ Boats.

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Cr uising Ou t pos tʻs Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

In d i g o A Much Loved Celestial 48 By Zuzana Prochazka

hen we purchased our Celestial 48, Indigo, I was so excited, I sent out birth announcements. Everyone thought it was cute except for my mother who is still waiting for a (human) grandchild. After nearly a decade of surﬁng Yachtworld looking for the cruising boat for our planned bluewater adventure, I came across Indigo in Southern California and insisted on going to see her – it was my birthday after all. My search criteria had always been the same; a center cockpit in the 40-50 foot range and at a certain price point – and suddenly, there

she was. It was love at ﬁ rst sight and today she is still my happy place. Indigo was in good shape since the previous owners lived aboard and raised their daughter from birth until college on the very same boat. Her systems were used every day and that’s good because neglect is a boat-killer. However, she wasn’t sailed often so we had to bring her back into cruising mode. For a decade we sweated over her and showered her with gifts in the form of upgrades. West Marine was happy as per the checkbook, we doubled her purchase price. What price, love.

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Design, Construction and Performance The Celestial line of moderate displacement center cockpit cruisers was from Xiamen Celestial Yachts originally based in Hong Kong, China. These rare boats have a long history, but many of the details are murky or downright inaccurate. Today, you may see their design attributed to anyone from Sparkman & Stevens to Ted Brewer or Robert Perry. After some digging and email exchanges with Messrs. Perry and Brewer, we learned that Bryce Fuhriman based his first boat, a 46, on a Brewer design and added his own changes. He then put together an international team of American ownership, Australian management and Chinese craftsmen to build this line of semi-custom bluewater boats destined for the North American market. But he started his venture in 1980 and the next five years proved to be difficult in terms of generating sufficient funds and fighting a market downturn. Fuhriman experimented with several sizes including 43s, 44s, 46s, 48s and 56s. By 1985, the line mainly focused on the 48-foot ketch that was later sold as a sloop in the European market. The 48 has a fully encapsulated, elongated fi n keel consisting of two solid lead castings. The skeg-hung

rudder is huge so maneuvering in close quarters is fairly good. However, the rudder must be dropped in order to remove the shaft and I know this because we had to replace it a few years back due to a spectacular screw-up on our part. The 48 underbody is very full and round, which makes her heel to a certain point rather quickly, but then the 44% ballast to displacement ratio takes over and she stabilizes and picks up and goes. At the sea trial, we were thrilled to see her move like a luxury car with only 8-10 knots across the deck. She has done nine knots in an 18-knot following breeze. (We added a Maxprop feathering propeller, which reduces drag under sail but still pushes the boat at over seven knots under power.) The hull of the 48 is balsa cored with reinforcement at the chainplates, rudder and propeller shaft. The balsa is cut away and sealed with epoxy around the through hulls and is omitted entirely in the keel sides and on the centerline. Like Indigo, most of these boats came from the factory with teak decks, which some owners have since replaced with glass and nonskid. We have instead, sanded and re-caulked the decks and they look pretty good after 30 years.

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Cockpit, Deck & Rigging Indigo’s sail area is a little less than the original 990 square feet since her boom was raised to make room for a full-sized bimini. Her previous owners were giants but at 5’5”, I had trouble reaching the mainsail to ﬂake it. So when it was time to re-do the dodger and bimini, we opted for a Wavestopper hardtop dodger with reinforced tubing and soft sides which I now stand on and manage the sail in the zip-up sail bag. So much easier. The Celestial 48 was designed as a ketch with a keel stepped double spreader rig. Although high, the masthead rig is not overpowering since it is split with a mizzen that is surprisingly large for a ketch. This is not the usual mizzen boom on which to dry laundry and it extends so

far aft that with just a block-and-tackle, we use the mizzen boom to hoist and lower the outboard onto the dinghy. Easy peasy. Indigo does quite well on a beam or broad reach under a jib and jigger configuration, running comfortably at eight knots with the main still in the bag. The main mast step was badly rotted when we bought her so we sailed (gingerly) to San Diego where both spars were pulled and painted while a new mast step was constructed from G10 glass epoxy, which is so tough that it’ll be here long after nothing is left on Earth but cockroaches. Indigo’s mainsheet was originally led forward and then back, much like on an aft cockpit layout. However, this did not allow the helmsman to have easy control, especially if singlehanding. Unfortunately, given the ketch rig, there is no convenient place to install a mainsheet winch so we added a 4:1/16:1 cascading purchase to control and fine tune the mainsail trim which works well. The original mainsheet winch is now used to tighten the rigid vang, which we also added, thereby eliminating the need for a topping lift. The cockpit is compact and trimmed with teak. We’ve been through two sets of electronics since Indigo took a lightning strike a few years ago. Today, there is a Raymarine C120W color chartplotter and radar at the helm along with the Raymarine autopilot control and the Standard Horizon remote VHF mic that was the only piece of electronics to survive the lightning. (The rest of Indigo was unharmed.) There is great additional storage beneath both port and starboard seats and plenty of room for instruments under the dodger. Another major project we undertook was the reconfiguration of the bow. The rollers on these models were surprisingly small and the Ideal windlass, although functional, had trouble pulling up the 350 of chain that we carry. We designed a new stainless steel double bow roller that took over the entire bow. When it came down from the fabricator, it should have been delivered in a Tiffany’s box, it was so shiny and beautiful. It was also priced like it came wrapped in one of those turquoise packages. The new windlass is a Lighthouse horizontal winch that could pull Indigo up a tree. The primary anchor is a 60-pound Manson Supreme with all-chain rode and the secondary is one of the original 44-pound Bruce designs. With ground tackle like that, we sleep well at night.

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Layout & Accommodations Below, Indigo’s layout is a modern fore and aft cabin design that features 6’4” headroom. The V-berth was reconﬁgured with a bed, desk and cabinet for the previous owners’ daughter to be able to study and do her homework. We’ve added a ﬁller cushion so the berth can sleep two in a pinch and put the electronic brains of the windlass into the cabinet. The saloon has a centerline drop-leaf table with a built-in eight bottle wine rack and settees along either side. Because there was always another project that took priority, my quest to update the upholstery was put off for nearly a decade. The existing cushions weren’t attractive but they were functional so they kept slipping farther down the project list. Finally, last year, I got to redecorate and now Indigo has lovely settees that give her a nice interior facelift. The galley is to starboard and the main complaint here is the limited counter and drawer space because

the previous owners replaced the traditional reefer with a stand-up Norcold fridge. The good news is that it will keep ice cream and not too many boats’ refrigeration systems can claim that.

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The forward facing nav station to port has an independent Garmin chartplotter that offers redundancy to the one above. Also here is the VHF base station and stereo. We do an entry log every hour we are underway and from the nav desk seat, I can see the wind and speed instruments above, the GPS position on the plotter, and the battery level at the panel just aft. The only thing that can’t be done from the nav desk is the actual engine check but since that involves simply opening a door, it also gets done every hour and we stay vigilant about all that goes on with Indigo while running. The companionway next to the nav desk has a built-in locker in each step - a clever use of space that provides great storage for small tools and cans of the various shmoo that boats require. The passageway to the aft cabin

used to have a large freezer outboard but the previous owner removed and replaced it with a voluminous storage compartment that houses all the tools and spares, a handy feature as it is directly across from the engine room. The luxurious owner’s suite aft came in a variety of layouts. Indigo’s has a king-sized centerline bunk that allows sleeping fore and aft (or athwartships if you’re not too tall) which is handy in a seaway. Nobody has to crawl over anyone to get out of bed in the middle of the night. One of the selling features was also the dedicated shower stall in the aft head. No more wiping down the entire compartment after a shower. Just slide the curtain aside and step out, just like at home. Storage in the aft cabin is excellent with cane-front sliding and hanging lockers. When we walk guests through, they always light up in the

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aft cabin – truly a master suite with excellent light and air coming through the large overhead hatch. Systems & Mechanical Another feature that sold Indigo to us is the dedicated, well-insulted and well-lit, crawl-in engine room that allows access to all sides of the 62hp Perkins 4-154 diesel. There is an actual door that swings and latches open and the lights turn on automatically. No more removal of the companionway steps to face a growling diesel in the dark. I can crawl past the engine and sit on the other side where there is access to a locker and the dual Racor fuel ﬁltration system that we also added. Right by the door, we have a new Yanmar IGM10 DC genset and there is also room for the installation of a watermaker. Initially, Indigo had 440 amp hours (aHs) of battery storage. We replaced the deep cycle wet cells once ourselves and I think my arms lengthened two inches that day as it’s not easy getting those heavy batteries down the companionway. A few years ago however, it came time to redo the whole electrical system and upgrade to AGMs. Between the house bank and the separate starter battery, we now have 900 aHs. (I immediately commissioned a 32” ﬂatscreen TV and a microwave running off a new

2800 watt inverter.) We’re drunk with power. Small boats can pull up to us in an anchorage and plug in. (Please don’t’ try this.) Tankage on these boats is phenomenal with 250 gallons of fuel and 250 gallons of fresh water. All the tanks are ﬁberglass, on the centerline beneath the cabin sole so the weight is low and the range is excellent. Indigo is truly a boat that can go anywhere in the world. Unfortunately, life has gotten in the way and we now face the prospect of taking her only for a season to Mexico or putting her up for sale, but she was meant for bigger things. Indigo has become somewhat famous, appearing on Lattitudes & Attitudes TV and in numerous sailing magazines. Her exploits became infamous – some we were proud of, others not so much. (She was once recognized in an anchorage after an article was published about a disastrous and expensive prop wrap – remember that replaced prop shaft?) Because Indigo is shapely and lithe, she gets lots of compliments but she also exudes the classic lines and stoutness of a bluewater cruiser. I never tire of looking at her and more than a decade later, I still take dozens of pictures of her in every anchorage, as if she were my newborn.

Indigo - Celestial 48 Designer: LOA: LWL: Beam: Draft: Ballast: Displacement: Sail Area: Fuel Tankage: Water Tankage: Ballast/Disp Disp/Length SA/Disp

Bryce Fuhriman et al 48’ 0” 39’ 4” 13’ 6” 6’ 11,800 lbs 27,000 lbs 990 sq ft 250 gallons 250 gallons 44% 198 17.67

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Li f es t y l e A Look at Why We Do What we Do

Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Lifestyle section folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Lifestyle@Cruisingoutpost.com.

Peter Colcord, the Baths Virgin Gorda,

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Richard and daughter Erika in the Galapagos, S/V Mary Anne in the background

By Melinda Mhone of her granddaughter, Morgan Dover, Lake Alltoona, Atlanta, GA

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Ron Grierson, cruising in September in the Gulf Islands, British Columbia

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By Barbara of “Christmas in July” party held in Christmas Cove (Great St James Island), St Thomas, USVI

Sent in by Mike Stinson the great escape!

By Jeff Woods of Pride of Baltimore under sail

By Amanda Colianni: a storm out of the west swallowing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, taken from the schooner Summer Wind

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From Terry Billingsby, Diamond Cay

From Tom, Sarah and Simone, making friends

From Laura and Bob in the BVIs

By Randy of rainbows (look close... there are two) over S/V Painkiller at Kentucky Lake

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By David Whetsel, a stringer full of women at the Bight on Norman Island

Tania Aebi & Hank Schmidt checkinâ€™ out the boat

From Jessica Johnson, Wardrick Wells, Exumas, Bahamas

By Genevieve Stolz, jumping off the back of their Morgan 41 in Christmas Cove, USVIs www.cruisingoutpost.com

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By Robert of Melanie awaiting her next task in Pink Panther

S/V Feral Soul, Tillamook, OR, by Circus Maximus

By Alli, South Africa on her new Catamaran

Tabitha diving in the BVIs

Eric Heck from Mill Creek with a case of the crabs

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From Mary Anne

Photo by Jeremy, Avalon, Catalina Island

The Great Lakes Scuttlebutt team in the BVIs

From Peanut, Suez Canal

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Watching Captain Ron on deck with sail screen, by Dan Olsen

You canâ€™t trust dogs to watch your food.

By Leith Coy, sailing from Kemah to Tampa!

By Dana Maxwell of Hollie, a 7-year-old yellow Lab that just wants to go sailing

From Jared DeWitt of the Gasparilla Invasion, Tampa

From Bob, Charleston, SC

Portugal Harbor

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Sent in by Nat Howe, shot by a friend in Polynesia

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From Jac, Conception Bay, NL

Cruising Outpost 83 10/25/15 12:46 PM

Photo by Cheryl, Gulf of Mexico

By Catain Cruz, a calm day on Lake Murry

From Bill & Joanne Harris, Bocas Del Torro

Mike Costello, Tom Brownell and Jim Norman at the Customs dock, St. Georges, Bermuda

By Steve Bolin, just sailinâ€™ away

Ray Johnson, Gunatanamo Bay, Cuba

84 Cruising Outpost

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Ed Collis, diving in the Caribbean

The first novel ever written on a typewriter: Tom Sawyer.

The benefits of hand picking your bareboat crew! - Captain Curtis and Alaska Crew at the Soggy Dollar Bar, White Bay, Jost Van Dyke

By Penny Kramer, Horseshoe Island, WI

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Cruising Outpost 85

10/25/15 12:47 PM

Going Steady! To Stabilize or Not to Stabilize, That is the Question!

By William Cook

In Search of â€œPowerâ€?

Although countering technical wisdom, most binocular observers never seem to grow tired of trying to use a binocular or telescope at magnifications higher than those required to do the job at hand. Why? Because while higher magnifications may offer increased resolution, the disadvantages of exceeding practical limits always outweigh advantages.

When magnification is increased:

* Image brightness is de- creased because a finite amount of light is spread over a greater area, * The field of view decreases (making objects harder to find and keep centered), * Atmospheric disturbances are accentuated, and * Vibrations may become annoying. This is true for all telescopes and binoculars. Fortunately, even the most powerful binoculars offer magnifications considerably lower than those expected of even a low-power telescope. Thus, of the four concerns above, only vibration remains a problem for most binoculars. So, what does one do who wants a steady, highly magnified image without the aid of a tripod? They turn to image stabilized (IS) binoculars.

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Image Stabilized Binoculars

Coca Cola was developed before Pepsi Cola, and still holds leadership in popularity. And while, technically, Burger King is four months older than McDonald’s, McDonald’s was way out front with the advertising that led consumers to believe they were the first fast food burger chain. Likewise, most of us recognize Lindbergh as the pilot who flew the first solo flight across the Atlantic Ocean. Fujinon was one of the pioneers in But, do you remember who was the stabilized binocular technology second? Why? Because we seem to be wired to remember firsts. oculars—even those with considerThe same is true with most ably larger apertures. This, added consumer products, such as image to a price tag reading $5,000 or stabilized binoculars. So before delvmore, has kept it from catching on ing into whether or not you need one, with most casual observers. let’s have a look at some of the leadIn 1990, the legendary Carl Zeiss ers in the marketplace. firm introduced its 20x60S binocular, Fujinon introduced the first imthe first binocular to achieve stabilizaage stabilized binocular—the Stabition through a mechanical “dampened scope—in 1980. This robust, waterstabilization mechanism” that does proof binocular went unchallenged not rely on electronics. Based on mefor many years and, for the chanical principles alone, the most demanding work, 20x60S does not dampen remains unchallenged. as thoroughly as the StabiImages in the Stabiscope scope, and some observers are steadied by the use say they feel the vibration of a high-speed gyro in the 20x60S is reduced attached to an interto that which one might nal chasis that holds expect from a 4-power the optics. Using this binocular—or about half technology, an image of that experienced in at 14-power may be using a traditional 7x50. stabilized enough for This is pretty impresuse from a helicopsive considering that, at ter, fast moving boat, 20-power, it has more or automobile. “jitters” to suppress than The Stabiscope any other IS binocular is heavier and yet introduced. Still, it more bulky than is noticeably longer than conventional bin- Early Ziess stabilized binocs the Stabiscope and not

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Cruising Outpost 87

10/30/15 12:45 PM

The Canon line-up includes a 10x30, a 12x36, a 15x50 a great deal more ergonomic. One appreciable feature is and an 18x50. These instruments range in price (list) from that, not requiring any electronic components, it is ready $550 to more than $2,000, respectively. However, comto go at all times, and one need not worry about a battery pack drawing moisture and going out at a critical moment. petition in the marketplace and advances in technology Surf the web for information on image stabilized hardly allow prices to remain stable for more than a few weeks at a time. binoculars and it would be easy to come away with Although lacking the degree of stabilizing the notion that Canon models were power found in the Stabiscope, the big Canons ﬁrst on the scene—in fact, they combine world-class optics with a stabiwere third. However, their appearance in lization system that provides enough steadying power for the needs of 1997 turned some powerful heads in the industry and showed Zeiss and most mariners at a fraction of the cost. Fujinon that consumers were ready to fall in love with the IS concept as soon The Canons can operas prices could be brought down from ate up to 90 minutes on two AA batteries. Some models the stratosphere. Canon chose to do this have a five-minute auto-on by utilizing the same technology that had feature that precludes the need been stabilizing video cameras for years. to hold the button down during its In Canon binoculars, stabilization is Cannon Stabilized 15X50 use. As the batteries drain, however, made possible by using motion sensors and some observers have experienced “a variable angle prisms that sense, and comweird double vision” and the need to keep the “on” pensate for, body tremors. And yes, that does mean they button depressed. have to respond instantly!

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pg 86-91 Binocs.indd 4

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Possibly the best thing Canon name bandied about most did for the consumer was to show wheelhouses, the folks at Fujinon that if they the sterling wanted to continue to be a reputaforce to be reckoned tion of with in the IS the commarket, they pany, would and quality have to of the product, develop warrants its more mention. Careafful observation fordable may reveal that technology. many measurements In 1999, Fujinon inand features of the troduced the TechnoTechno-Stabi and Stabi 14x40. Using Canon 10x30 Stabilized Binocular the Stabil-Eyes technology akin to are exactly the that found in the Canons, the Techno- same. With a word to the wise being Stabi is waterproof and, introduced at sufficient, I will leave the consumer about $1,300, competed head-to-head to draw his or her own conclusion with the Canon line. concerning that coincidence. In 1917, three Japanese optical Buyer Beware companies pooled their resources and Recent entry of Russian IS formed Nippon Kogaku. This is binoculars into the market the optical giant we know togives consumers day as Nikon. By 1920, additional choices. Nikon had nine Zeiss However, the phrase, techs and engineers in “buyer beware,” tow and were preparcan find no beting to make a big ter usage than splash in the world in describing of optics. instruments They, too, coming have entered from the image Eastern stabilized Europe. binocular Quality can market with their vary greatly from “Stabil-Eyes” 14x40. one product to Placing the Stabilthe next—even in Eyes and TechnoExploded view of stabilize Binocs identical models. Stabi side by side on And although a display counter, one Russia has produced some of the would be hard-pressed to come up world’s best opticians, their producwith many significant differences in tion techniques and philosophies size, weight, features, performance, or leave a great deal to be desired when cost. Even so, while “Nikon” is not a viewed from a Western vantage point.

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This is especially true when it comes to repairs because, as one importer puts it: “Their parts replacement capabilities are all but non-existent.” This will undoubtedly change over time. For the time being, one might well remember the phrase popularized by Dirty Harry in the 1970s: “Do you feel lucky?”

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This question can only be answered by a prospective owner. Will you need IS technology every time you take your boat into placid waters for a couple of hours? Most certainly not. But then there are those occasions that come along once or twice in a lifetime when the ability to see clearly—and steadily—might help save a life. At such times, even the cost of the most expensive IS binocular will become inconsequential. One persistent rumor to be quashed relates to what the stabilization feature does and does not do. Some boaters who own IS binoculars can be heard to tell others how their IS binocular dampens “all extrane-

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The demand for IS binoculars is here to stay, and as the technology gets better and production costs drop, we will see even more companies vying for their share of the market. This leads us to the big question.

Commander 7X50 Marine Binoculars

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ous” motions. Of course, I am happy they are pleased with their purchase. Their observation, however, is somewhat inflated. Image stabilized technology does dampen short term motions: engine vibrations, body tremors, wind gusts, and the like, the importance of which cannot be overstated. Still, it does not compensate for slow term motions such as most pitch and roll. Think about it; if those motions could be filtered out, how could you move the bino when you needed to change your target!? There can be no doubt, image stabilization brings a new dimension of enjoyment—and perhaps safety—to your sailing experience. Still, unless one suffers from body tremors, the feature is most appreciated by those wanting or needing a steady view at higher powers than can be afforded by traditional 7x50 binoculars.

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Weems & Plath Navy Binoculars And, those who require nothing more than that 7x50, a really good choice would be the new Weems Pro 7x50 from Weems & Plath, a name alone that can be your assurance of quality. However, as one who has been on the inside of more than 12,000 binoculars, I can tell you that it is a binocular for a lifetime that goes far beyond the needs of even the most critical yachtsmen. Yet, selling for about $550, it is priced well below binoculars of similar quality.

Cruising Outpost 91

10/30/15 12:47 PM

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Arbroat h

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10/26/15 11:33 AM

Sea Fest 2015

By John Simpson

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any factors encouraged me to visit this popular Sea Fest. Growing up on the North Sea much further south, this coast continues to draw me. The land usually offers much ﬂatter scenery than in the west of Scotland, where I now live. Many of the harbours here dry out, the sea temperature

is cooler than the Atlantic, and I’ve also enjoyed eating the world renowned Arbroath ‘Smokie’ (smoked haddock) for many years. Arbroath’s festival has been going for quite a few years. It attracts up to 25,000 people over the two days. This event is family oriented with music, fun

Creel boat coming through the entrance to Arbroath

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fair, food, and a wide variety of interesting attractions as well as ‘on the water activities.’ Historic working craft and yachts congregate in the harbour’s inner basin which has half-tide gates. The outer harbour almost dries at low water on spring tides. A local creel ﬁsherman, who had just come in, mentioned that the depth in the entrance was less

than a metre shortly after the lowest depth. The original harbour dates from the 14th century. It was replaced by the one in use now, built in 1839. The new harbour encouraged the ﬁshing industry to grow. Local ﬁshermen who launched off the beach three miles away at Auchmithie were encouraged to move. Eventually, roughly 40

An Old Fife ﬁshing boat WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Arbroath outer harbor ﬁshing craft were based here at the beginning of the 19th century. Quota cuts and decommissioning have taken their toll nowadays. Today, small creel boats remain and several angling craft are on offer for leisure fishing. A marina has been built for yachts in the inner harbour. Arbroath still processes many different types of fish sent from Peterhead, Aberdeen, and occasionally Ireland, Norway and Iceland. Quite a few families are still producing the well known ‘Smokie’ too.

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The harbour was also used as a base for building Scotland’s first offshore lighthouse on Bell Rock. It was the closest safe haven, just 14 miles away. A signalling tower was built just south of the harbour to allow communications with the men building this first, new, experimental structure offshore. A rbroath can celebrate a ver y colourf ul past. The ‘Declaration of A rbroath’ was d raf ted by the Abbot Ber nard on 6th Apr il 1320. It was add ressed to the Pope in Rome and declared the

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Arbroath lifeboat and slipway independence of Scotland, making ‘Rober t the Br uce’ K ing of Scotland. This lasted for 400 years until the creation of the United K ingdom (and may possibly change again!). The mag nif icent abbey where this took place was on par to the one in St. A nd rew’s. Unfor t unately, it fell into

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disrepair af ter its dissolution dur ing the Refor mation. It was wonder f ul to see families enjoying this per fect Aug ust weekend with plent y of at t ractions on offer for their you ng child ren. Long may this celebration of their mar itime roots continue for the people of A ng us.

Cruising Outpost 99

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Of The Cruiser By The Cruiser For The Cruiser

Anchors Away

Having the dream of sailing my own boat through the Bahamas, I figured it was time to go for it. Limited experience and money would not detour me from that goal. After purchasing and outfitting a 34-foot Irwin sailboat, my wife and I set sail out of Miami through Biscayne Bay to Pumpkin Key on a fine afternoon. I anchored that night and noticed later that the boat had moved about 100 yards, even though I set both anchors. One of the anchors was a Wishbone-type anchor. It was invented in the â€˜70s and never caught on. Literally never caught on! Someone had mentioned to me that you set the Wishbone and then you just wish it would hold! I also had a small 10-lb. Danforth for back-up. It was way too small for the boat. This would haunt me later. In the morning we motored out through Angel Fish Creek, down the coast to Rodiguez Key at Key Largo. We decided to leave Rodriguez Key at 3:00 p.m. and traverse the Gulf Stream at night. I had never sailed in the open ocean like that.

100 Cruising Outpost pg 100-125 Flotsam.indd 2

By Marty Smith

We were excited. The wind was blowing about 15 knots on our nose and our little 15 hp Yanmar was straining most of the way. The Yanmar was 32 years old and never had an overhaul, so I was a little nervous. There were a couple of floating cities - cruise ships - that looked damn close. I found it difficult to judge their headings, but I managed to avoid getting run down by them. We arrived at Riding Rock, south of Bimini, as the glorious sun was coming up. Relieved to be there, we motored around the point and on to Gun Key for the night. There was a 36-foot Watkins and a 38-foot sloop anchored also. We made radio contact and found that a cold front would be approaching sometime in the night. I set both anchors, hoped for the best and went to bed. Around 1:00 a.m. I was awakened by the yells of the captain of the Watkins and the drag anchor alarm screaming. God, I hate that sound! In a total panic I bolted out of the berth. It was pitch black and raining ice cold bullets. We were being

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10/31/15 2:58 PM

blown back fast and I knew we had to reset the anchors quickly or be wrecked on the reef. Finally, after a tense few minutes, one of the anchors (the Danforth) reset and we came to a halt. Relieved but still freaked out, I decided I would stay up all night and ride it out. I noticed that the boat was swinging violently back and forth like a blue marlin trying desperately to get off the line. Within 30 minutes total panic returned as the drag anchor alarm went off again. God, I hate that sound! We started moving back toward the reef. I leaped up and yelled at my wife. “Get the hell up here!” As she took the helm, I crawled up to the bow in the howling wind to reset the anchors. One of the lines had chafed through. We were down to one crappy anchor, and it was the antiquated Wishbone. In the 30plus gusts I struggled to set it. It wouldn’t set! The small sailboat was being pushed onto the reef! Communication was impossible in the howling wind. My wife was sure I had fallen overboard. So I crawled back and instructed her to motor into the wind while I pulled the remaining anchor up. I frantically made my way back to the bow and wrestled the Wishbone up. My only option was to motor into the wind until the wind let up or it was sunrise. We were behind a small island that offered little protection from the full force of the wind that blew from the north across the Gulf Stream. I knew there was a protective reef and coral heads scattered downwind. I also knew it was going to be a long, insanely stressful night. I said a quick prayer that the small Yanmar diesel would make it through. She strained as I motored around the anchored boats. Totally overwhelmed, I had my wife make radio contact and let the other boats know what I was doing. In the eighth of a mile area I had to maneuver, I had to keep the bow pointed into the wind and quickly found that it was nearly impossible! I had to keep forward momentum but had limited space. The side of the boat was acting like a sail, and every time I slowed to less than 3-4 knots, the blasting wind would catch us and violently turn us around.

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We would be forced out of control and go speeding toward the other boats or the dangerous reef. The “little Yanmar diesel engine that could” was straining to recover as I steered to point us into the wind. After hours of being blown out of control over and over, I was fatigued and cold. I asked my wife for a blanket. As she crawled out into the cockpit and handed me the blanket, it was ripped out of her hand by the wind. I watched it flailing into the darkness. I was too stressed to care about how chilled I was. At one point I was ahead of the two other boats at anchor. A gust of wind caught me off guard and we were blown out of control, heading straight for the one of the boats at anchor. As we were gaining speed and getting ready to collide, I pushed the throttle all the way down and at the last second missed the boat by a few feet, avoiding disaster. Heart pumping, scared out of my wits and freezing, I made a huge circle and headed again into the wind. My wife was getting really scared at that moment. She said, “If you don’t get us out of this I’m finished with you!” Like I needed motivation at that point! I was thinking, “We won’t be alive to worry about that one!” After hours of near misses and being blown out of control, I was so exhausted the only thing I could think of was to pray. I prayed to God with all my being to let the wind slow down and get us out of this mess. Within 30 minutes, I noticed that the wind was slightly easing up. Not a moment too soon, because I couldn’t go on much longer. After five hours of torture I was spent. We motored and snuggled up to the island and I threw out the anchor. It stuck. It was a relief to be still for a moment as the sun slowly peeked over the horizon. The wind finally calmed but I could not. Too much adrenaline was in my system to relax. I just lay in the berth, limp and exhausted. I just prayed and thanked God. I couldn’t sleep for days. My advice to other sailors is: whatever anchor you think you need, get one twice that size and pray!

Cruising Outpost 101 10/31/15 2:58 PM

Flotsam & Jetsam

The Stowaway By Carolyn Simmons

Gusto!!!, our 44’ Island Packet cutter, was on her way from Mangrove Cay via Memory Rock in the northwest Bahamas to Lake Worth Inlet – a distance of about 90 miles. On board were my husband, Dick, and 14-year-old ship’s kitty, Annie.

102 Cruising Outpost pg 100-125 Flotsam.indd 4

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We had spent the summer in the Abacos, anchoring and visiting with longtime local friends, and meeting new cruisers and sharing fun and the beautiful Bahamian waters. We had visited a Cruising Outpost – Nippers – on Great Guana Cay among other wonderful, memorable places. We used a SPOT every time we anchored in a new location to let our family know where we were. We had left our anchorage near Mangrove Cay at 4:00 a.m., and arrived around 8:00 a.m. just south of Memory Rock. There, we entered the deeper water and then the northern running Gulf Stream. We headed on a southerly course to adjust for the Stream, and soon a little bird flew onto Gusto!!! – very far from any land. We expected that he would rest awhile and then take off again, but he was alone and very friendly. I took the top from a water bottle and put some fresh water on it up near our mainsail winch, but he had no interest. After a couple of hours, Bird (now we had given him a name) had investigated down below on our sailboat, flitted onto Dick’s bare foot and lap, examined my arm and shoulder and head, and climbed all over our sleeping kitty in the cockpit – all the while leaving and making circles around our boat, but always returning. I had part of a juicy tomato that we’d purchased at Sid’s Grocery in Green Turtle Cay. We set it up, wedged on my camera case between our radar screen and our GPS. Voila! – Bird spent the next nine hours flitting around, but always returning to peck at the tomato piece, eating and eating with his short, pointed beak. He was so friendly and amazingly tame. About 4:00 p.m. the weather turned foul. It picked up to 20-30 knots at times out of the north, and I really feared that if Bird took one of his circles around our boat he’d be unable to fly back against the wind. We rolled in our staysail and the boat was doing the washing machine wind-from-the-stern sway, and we were hanging on. Weather continued this way all the way to Lake Worth Inlet. A squall line just north of the inlet stayed with us for several hours. As we entered the deep Lake Worth inlet, just past the second red buoy, our sweet Bird made a beeline for the north shore at Singer Island. We were so relieved that Bird had made it alive from the Bahamas to the United States, and that the tomato had nourished him for what lies ahead.

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圀攀搀攀猀椀最渀攀搀琀栀椀猀瀀爀漀最爀愀洀琀漀最椀瘀攀礀漀甀愀瀀攀爀猀漀渀愀氀瀀氀愀渀漀昀愀挀琀椀漀渀琀漀洀愀欀攀礀漀甀爀挀爀甀椀猀椀渀最搀爀攀愀洀愀爀攀愀氀椀琀礀⸀ 䰀攀愀爀渀愀猀愀挀漀甀瀀氀攀昀爀漀洀愀挀漀甀瀀氀攀⸀ 嘀椀猀椀琀漀甀爀眀攀戀猀椀琀攀Ⰰ 漀爀攀洀愀椀氀䨀攀昀昀愀渀搀䨀攀愀渀愀琀㨀椀渀昀漀䀀琀眀漀挀愀渀猀愀椀氀⸀挀漀洀⸀ 䰀攀琀甀猀栀攀氀瀀礀漀甀戀漀琀栀爀攀愀氀椀稀攀礀漀甀爀挀爀甀椀猀椀渀最搀爀攀愀洀猀℀

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Cruising Outpost 103 10/31/15 2:58 PM

Flotsam & Jetsam

At the SSCA Melbourne Gam I had met Diana Doyle, On the Water Chart Guides co-author, who was giving a seminar on Birding Aboard. We had multiple photos of Bird and a close-up movie of him as he ate his tomato. I emailed Diana with the photos to see if she could ID Bird, and she responded right away! Our Bird is an “uncommon warbler that breeds in the boreal forests of Canada. He is a male Cape May Warbler.” I had tried to ID him in the Sibley Guide, but Diana said he wouldn’t look exactly like the photo in that guide because he wasn’t in his breeding plumage, but you could still see a bit of the brown vestiges on his face. She

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said that Cape May Warblers winter in the Caribbean and Central America, so he hitched a ride on Gusto!!! going the wrong way! She also indicated that for a migrant, the tomato gave him much needed sugars and liquid. When I asked Diana if she thought he could survive, she replied that he should be fine. Bird will either continue southward or opt to winter in South Florida, which is part of that speciesâ€™ regular winter range. On Facebook, there is a Birding Aboard Group that gives photos and other cruising bird sightings: www. facebook.com/groups/BirdingAboard/? Oh, and thatâ€™s where we learned he was a Cape May Warbler.

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Cruising Outpost 105 10/31/15 2:59 PM

Flotsam & Jetsam

THE ART OF FISHING AND SAILING

Okay I admit it. I’ve been accused of being a fisherman with a very serious sailing problem! I’ve also been accused of other things... but that’s not related to fishing and sailing! I discovered both of them more years ago than I am willing to admit to, while growing up on the south shore of Long Island. One would normally not equate the two and think of them in the same sentence unless, of course, you have spent a fair amount of time sailing these beautiful open oceans and seas that connect all major land masses. In fact, the two are a perfect match in both the deep waters we sail and all the shallows that cruising sailors spend a fair amount of time in. Let’s take a look at trolling in deep waters, shall we? The very first thing we have to look at is gear. Your rod, reel, line, bait and/or lures go a long way towards determining how successful you will be trolling and catching good, edible fish while sailing. I will address these one at a time. First, Your Rod: You should look for a fairly stiff and strong rod in the 5’ to 6’ range - ideally 5’6”. Look for quality names such as Shakespeare, Penn, Daiwa or Offshore Angler. All of the brands offer several models of “offshore” rods that will do the trick. You do not want a very heavy rod, but one that is thick, stout and lightweight. I prefer mine to have rollers throughout the eyes. You

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By Robert Scott

should be able to get a great, high quality rod with all of the features I mentioned in the $100 to $200 range, tops. There will be cheaper of course, but you must consider the elements you will be using this in and quality is important for longevity. Next, Your Reel: This is your most important component in the combination because it is the only one with multiple working parts and it truly determines how successful you will be in bringing your catch on board. You are looking for a “drag reel” - not a spinner or casting reel. As with the rods, there are many brands and models. I recommend sticking with these three: Penn, Daiwa and Offshore Angler. My personal favorites are Penn Reels - great history, been around over 100 years as a US Company - excellent quality and performance. Some of my choices would be anything in the Penn Senator, Defiance or Squall series of reels. You can expect to pay between $80 and $300 for a high quality reel that will help you be successful in catching fish while trolling as you sail. Next, Your Line: There are three major types of fishing line - braid, fluorocarbon and monofilament. You can use either one; my personal preference for trolling offshore is braid. Whichever one you decide on, you want to use anywhere between 50-lb and 80-lb test line. You should have 200 to 300 yards of this spooled on your reel

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depending on the size reel you purchased. The fish you hit out there can run out line faster than you can imagine while you are underway at cruising speed. You should connect a high quality stainless barrel snap swivel at the end of your line to secure your “bait.” Next, Your Baits: You really have two options - fresh (frozen) or lures. Fresh is a great option at the beginning of your journey offshore, so long as there is a local bait shop that sells it. The best and most widely used bait for this application is pre-rigged Ballyhoo. You have a nice prerigged steel leader attached to these baits and it’s best to “dress” it with a colorful skirt as well. Your second option is lures and they are as varied as people. I will give you several to choose from. There are basically three types off offshore lures to look at while trolling underway. First, surface: These are lures (your rubbery soft lures) that basically bounce or skirt on top of the surface and create a visual to the fish below, who then come up and strike. Second, just below the surface: These are harder lures, usually with a plastic or metal housing up front and feathers or skirts on the back half. They ride just beneath the surface and are always colorful, attracting the attention of the game fish. Third, bombers: These are, traditionally, plastic bodied lures with realistically painted fish bodies that have a “spoon” on the front of them much like a bill. These come in many different sizes and the “spoon” makes them dive way below

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Flotsam & Jetsam the surface. For example, a size 30 bomber lure is a great lure to use between four and five knots in areas that you know have grouper and other similar fish that tend to stay way below the surface. They give chase and hook up. Note*** Always use steel leaders on your lures!!! Here are some of my favorites: Offshore Angler (Bass Pro Shops) Dolphin Candy and Tuna Toast - both are feathered lures, and Game Dish Candy and Mahi Candy - both are skirted lures. Williamson Lures - these are so realistic and I have caught a ton of fish on these while making passages. Their Live Series Lures are soft lures. Their Light Trolling Lures are feathered lures. Okay, that does it for bait. You should also consider getting a fishing net with small weave and an extendable handle. In addition, a gaff is almost a requirement when trying to bring in fish on a sailboat. Now let me spend a moment on techniques and ideas to help you catch and keep the fish that hit your lines while trolling. First, you are going to need a good, sturdy rod holder - preferably stainless and mounted somewhere aft - secured and unobstructed. You will definitely want a secure rod holder. Without one your chances of losing your fish and your gear increase greatly. The fish you are

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trolling for strike aggressively and if you do not have steel leaders you risk them cutting right through your lines when they strike. While underway at your cruising speed, play your line out so that it’s just behind the wake your vessel is making aft. Set your drag so that it is tight, but not too tight as you want the fish to “swallow” your lure this secures it better. Once you get a “fish on” the first thing you must do is get the vessel off wind. Reduce speed greatly. Secondly, you get the rod, keeping the tip of the rod up at all times. Give gentle tugging motions on the rod so you can “feel” the fish. Once boat speed has been slowed, start to tighten the drag - keeping the rod tip up!!! Keep the pressure on while reeling your fish in. Hopefully you have another person on board that can assist either with the gaffing or netting. If not, you’ve got your work cut out for you depending on the kind and size of fish you have caught. Fish you can expect while trolling open waters in the Caribbean, Florida Keys, tropical waters, Mexico, etc., and how they respond when caught are as follows: Barracuda (excellent table fair - keep them under three feet or five pounds) - they will strike hard, run out some

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line and then give very little fight until you get them close to your vessel. Tuna (can you say delicious?! Black fin, yellow fin, blue fin) - all strike hard, fight hard, and will “dive” deep once they are hooked - even the smallest of tuna is going to give you a good strong fight. Wahoo / Ono (excellent table fare) - will strike hard, fight hard, jump to try and “spit” the hook, so very important to keep the tip of the road up!!! Mahi mahi (dorado, dolphin, simply the best, none better) - strike very hard, will fight and jump, and spin like hell so very, very important to keep the tip of the road up and never let up on the pressure! These fish are masters at spitting the hook! Mackerels (Spanish and Cero both make delicious meals either grilling the fish whole after gutting and cleaning or making fillets, breading and pan frying!) - strike somewhat hard depending on the size. They are fairly easy to bring in after that with very little fight. Kingfish (delicious smoked or grilled but must be eaten shortly after caught) - very much like the barracuda, hard first strike, they run out some line and then very little fight after that. Well cruisers, that’s it for this one. Remember, the Earth is three quarters water. There is plenty of opportunity for you to catch fish and feed yourself and your crew while underway. It does not get much better than that. Enjoy, stay safe and FISH ON!!!

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Flotsam & Jetsam

cruising the Sound of Jura

One of the joys of yachting on the west coast of Scotland is the huge amount of anchorages. (I’ve been told that Argyll has a longer coastline than France!) It’s great fun exploring new places. A recent trip with a couple of friends, slightly marred by light winds, allowed us to do that. Three of us started from a mooring off Crinan Harbour on Kelana in fine style. We were heading south down the Sound of Jura having no real plans to go anywhere specific. We realized that with the small amount of wind forecast, catching a fair tide might be a bit more useful. A light reach south in northwesterly F3 doing four

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吀伀圀䔀䰀匀

䘀爀漀洀琀栀攀氀攀最攀渀搀愀爀礀吀甀爀欀椀猀栀戀愀琀栀猀Ⰰ 漀甀爀栀愀渀搀氀漀漀洀攀搀愀渀搀昀愀椀爀氀礀琀爀愀搀攀搀琀漀眀攀氀猀愀爀攀栀椀最栀氀礀愀戀猀漀爀戀攀渀琀Ⰰ 焀甀椀挀欀琀漀搀爀礀Ⰰ 愀渀搀昀漀氀搀昀氀愀琀 ⴀ 瀀攀爀昀攀挀琀昀漀爀礀漀甀猀愀椀氀漀爀猀⸀ꀀ 䄀氀眀愀礀猀㄀ ─ 漀爀最愀渀椀挀挀漀琀琀漀渀℀ꀀ 嘀椀猀椀琀漀甀爀眀攀戀猀椀琀攀昀漀爀挀漀氀漀爀挀栀漀椀挀攀猀漀爀挀愀氀氀甀猀昀漀爀猀瀀攀挀椀愀氀漀爀搀攀爀猀⸀ 挀愀氀氀甀猀

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By John Simpson

or five knots under all plain sail confirmed we’d made the right decision. My two Scottish companions, Jamie and Keith, have been friends since school over 40 years ago. Both built plywood sailing dinghies when they were kids in Ayr. This started their sailing adventures and enabled them to know each other very well, meaning that a light ribbing from Jamie (owner) to Keith whenever there were any chores set a fun tone on the boat! Both are hard working guys and good professionals in their respective fields of law and medicine, without the benefits of a privileged background. Keith, though, has recently been totally

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arrested in his career as a consultant radiologist due to a stroke at 50, four years ago, and then diagnosed with a hole in his heart. But he seemed remarkably upbeat when he told me a couple of months ago saying, “If I’ve lasted all this time from childhood with a hole, maybe my next problem won’t occur for another 50 years, John.” (Scotts are real ﬁghters!) Keith made lunch when the wind died. Jointly, we decided to continue motoring on the last of the ﬂood tide heading for Craighouse, Jura. Neither Keith nor I had been there before, whilst Jamie’s experience of the place some years ago hadn’t been that wonderful. With his boat safely moored to a buoy, all the crew had opted to stay ashore in the hotel for a couple of nights due to very uncomfortable pitching and rolling during a severe storm! Jura is a mountainous island but doesn’t have many people living on it (roughly 200), mainly due to a lack of soil depth. The land is divided up and owned by several wealthy old landowners. The major population is deer! As we’d sailed down the coast from Crinan, we’d seen Barnhill, which George Orwell had rented to write his novel ‘1984’ after the war. We picked up a visitor’s buoy wending our way into Craighouse from the north via several small isles. The anchorage was quite crowded with about a dozen yachts. We clambered aboard the dinghy, going ashore to explore this new island. The sun broke through as we enjoyed the gentle, mellow atmosphere.

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Flotsam & Jetsam

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Craighouse was dominated by a whisky distillery and good hotel. We walked around to stretch our legs, noticing that most of the trees and shrubs had been ringed off to protect them from being eaten by deer! The cabbage palm trees gave it a positively West Indian aspect - for at least four hours!! We headed back to enjoy a pint of beer, chatting in the warm sun and watching the local brewery cat doing a round of the visitors to enjoy affection. Deciding to eat at the hotel, we all enjoyed a main course meal of venison (when in Rome!) cooked with chocolate and chillies, accompanied by a fine wine. We made our way back to the boat early, not participating in what looked to be the start of a lively session in this fleshpot! Weâ€™d already planned to leave reasonably early to catch the tide, hoping to visit one of the small McCormaig Isles further northeast. It looked quite a tight anchorage. A slightly dull morning and no wind greeted us, but we had a fair tide. Jamie and I thought it might be a good time to visit this tiny isle about 20 miles away. This group of small islands lie in the entrance to Loch Sween at the southern part of the sound. Given our weather and neap tide, it was an ideal opportunity to do some rock hopping. The anchorage on Eilean Mor (big island) is a narrow inlet on the northern coast. It looked quite tight with guardian rocks either side. Itâ€™s important to keep the

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transit (cross on top of the island and lower stone cairn) lined up on 194 degrees (T). This avoids a covered rock on the eastern side close to the anchorage pool. Another rock very close in the west had been destroyed by the army. Settled weather is needed for a first visit here, given the narrowness of the channel. St. Cormac, an early Celtic monk, meditated in a cave here in the 6th Century. The island was given to William Wolfe, an early independence political pioneer, and the Scottish National Party, by its owner, Pat Neil, There’s an excellent visitor’s centre close to the harbour. We passed a fresh water pool full of Brent geese guarding their young on the way to the 12th Century chapel south of Cross. All nesting birds were agitated by our visit to this interesting place. Picking up another fair tide later that afternoon, we found that Carsaig Bay was quite busy. Being joined by a couple cruising in a French aluminium Ovni who’d anchored outside Eilean Mor, we went ashore for a couple of beers in light rain, passing Jolomo’s house (John Laurie Morrison). It’s very easy to understand why Scotland’s most successful commercial artist lives here. The light and views are amazing. Leaving early again with the tide, we finished this particular trip back in Crinan after four hours. I’d finally persuaded Jamie that it might be my turn to wash up after breakfast, rather than Keith doing it yet again! Over the years, Jamie and I have explored many places on this coast. What makes this coast so special is that there are always so many more...

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Flotsam & Jetsam

Gary Takes A Vacation

My wife, Virginia, and I left Punta Gorda, Florida, on our 45’ Hunter Passage 450, Honeymoon Forever, in February of this year to begin our multi-year cruise. We had no particular destination in mind except to follow the weather, have fun, and be safe. When I say no particular destination I do not mean we would just meander aimlessly. We knew that for the first few years we would work our way through the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, the Virgins (US and BVI), the Windwards and the Leewards, but we did not have any one of those particular points as a goal in itself. After several months in the Bahamas a plan took place. We were anchored off of Stocking Island, George Town, on a beautiful sun drenched afternoon. After a delicious lunch at Chat ‘N’ Chill she proposed this plan: On May 7th, Virginia and I would fly to FL, check on our properties and businesses and then she would fly to Brazil for a family visit and I would fly back to Georgetown with Gary Howman, our dear friend and fellow sailor from the Tampa Bay area. Then, Gary and I would move the vessel as far south as weather windows would allow us. Wherever we wound up, he would fly home and Virginia would fly back in.

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By Robert Scott

We departed the marina heading only 13 miles down the sea road to Stocking Island, where we planned on anchoring off of Chat ‘N’ Chill where Virginia and I were previously anchored. Looked like we had a few days of southeasterlies blowing pretty steady, so it was far better to hang out at Stocking Island and Chat ‘N’ Chill than the marina!!! We arrived just in time for lunch and some cold ones, so we set up the dinghy and headed to shore. Then we settled right in and enjoyed the best conch burgers in the Bahamas. And so, each day went like this... We snorkeled a lot, dinghied about here and there, fished, hung out at Chat ‘N’ Chill, walked about in Georgetown, and just enjoyed every moment we had there knowing that in a few days we would be leaving. We made the decision that we would head to our next spot, Thompson Bay on the southwest coast of Long Island. We weighed anchor in what appeared to be a calm morning which soon turned to headwinds running 18 - 24 mph, so motor-sailing it was. As we came through the pass Gary noticed the temperature gauge was creeping up. We took her off wind and shut down the motor so I could inspect. I found a broken hose clamp. After replacing that I refilled

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the cooling system and we were back on course, fighting headwinds for the next six hours. We arrived in Thomson Bay and dropped the hook, secured the vessel, launched the dinghy and motor and went in search of lunch. We made our way down to a nice little place up on the hill call Souâ€™ side Bar and Grill. There, we had a delicious fish burger and some cold Kaliks for lunch. We headed back to the vessel discussing plans about staying, as there was really not a whole lot there to make it worth it. We did some snorkeling on a close-by reef. The snorkeling was great, but fish were too small to mess with. We made the decision to leave in the morning and head to the northwest part of Long Island, closer to Santa Maria in Calabash Bay. The anchorage looked good and it put us in a better launch position to round the northernmost part of Long Island on our way to Clarence Town in the southeastern corner of the island. Calabash Bay is a shallow bay, but has some very good portions of deep sandy spots ideal for anchoring. On the northwest end of it is the Santa Maria Resort which is very secluded, quiet and private for those who wish for that. It is surrounded by beautiful clear water and white sand beaches. We went there a few times during our stay to have lunch and talk with guests. The food is very good, the view is spectacular and the beer is cold! We started getting the vessel ready for what would be a long day heading southeast directly into the winds and waves down the east side of Long Island. The trip took us a little over eight hours with steady 24 to 27 mph winds, and with four- to eight-foot seas depending on the stretch we were on. It was a wet and wild ride for sure. A little after 1030 hours the fishing line started peeling off. We dropped speed and headed off wind as I grabbed the pole. All of a sudden the biggest mahi I have ever seen

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up close jumped through the waterâ€™s surface and spun like mad trying to spit the hook. My adrenaline was ripping; it was man against fish, hunter against the hunted, the battle begun! I fought him for over 25 minutes to get him close to the vessel. He was a big bull and was draining my strength, making me fight for every foot of line I reeled in. I had his nose against the transom finally, and I transferred the pole to Gary while I grabbed the gaff. As I went to gaff him he found one more bit of survival instinct from his primordial brain and spun himself 360 degrees, ripping the hook from his jaw, breaking bones along the way, but the SOB got away just like that. I sat there dumbfounded and unbelieving of what I just experienced. I saw a freezer full of mahi steaks swim away and I felt cheated, but I knew he won the battle at a great cost to himself. We arrived in Clarence Town a few hours later, dropped a hook in the middle of the very well-protected harbor and set up the dinghy as we knew we would be there for at least a few days. It was quite the operation taking down the wind generator and dismantling it on the aft deck. We were in search of a short of some kind, so we were trouble-shooting. We did find a couple of spots that were suspicious as well as two corroded connections. We cleaned those all up and reassembled everything. Worked fine! We decided that we would leave in a few days to give the winds an opportunity to calm down a bit. All my weather sources said they would. Our next stop was going to be the furthest northeastern corner of Atkins Island at Attwood Harbor. A few days later we picked up our anchor and started to head out. The engine died. We fired it back up again - we were in shallows with reefs all around us - and it stalled again. We tried again and as long as it was at idle speed it was great, but any pressure on the fuel system and it stalled. So, we

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Flotsam & Jetsam dropped the hook again and went below to inspect. What we discovered was a totally clogged fuel intake line and a water separator that was totally clogged as well, both in the bottom part of the reservoir where you cannot see them. We spent the afternoon repairing and were comfortable with the results. So we hung out, had some dinner, secured the dinghy and got systems ready for the morning. Later that evening I felt that the floorboards above the battery bank were very warm - no, hot - not a good sign. We pulled up the boards and sure enough we had a battery issue!!! - My batteries were 8D AGMS! Not cheap batteries and they were just under three years old! UGH!!! So guess what? You got it. The following morning we headed back to the north end of the island to the chandlery where I purchased new batteries! Despite these issues I was truly thankful we were having them there

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instead of anywhere else in that part of the Bahamas, where who knows how long we would have to wait for parts of any kind. Seafarer Marine Hardware - kudos to you! We had spent four to five days longer than we wanted to and certainly much more $$$ than I wanted to, but Honeymoon Forever was now running like a charm. We were up early and headed out of the harbor with the sunrise. We made the long, slow run up to Attwood Bay on Atkins Island. It was a very uneventful trip, just the way I like them. We dropped a hook and saw only one other vessel in the harbor. The plan was to have an early night, get up at 0300 and head out to make the long run all the way to Providenciales, Turks and Caicos. We did just that. We were up are 0300, coffee was on, vessel systems were checked and we snaked our way through the coral heads and out of the harbor into the deep blue. Once

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again we found ourselves with very strong headwinds and very rough seas, so early into the trip we made the decision to cut the trip in half and stop for the night at Mayaguana Island. Shortly after 1100 hours we heard that wonderful sound of line peeling off the reel, and I mean screaming!!! Gary took the helm and slowed the vessel while I got the pole out of the rod holder. As I grabbed the pole I turned to him and said, “It’s a tuna!” In no time at all it peeled off 2/3 of the line on my reel. I was working like mad to find that balance between tightening up the drag and gaining some purchase on the line to reel it in. The minutes ticked by as I fought this beast. Every muscle in my upper body was screaming “give me a break!” Thirty minutes later I had the fish within 10 feet of the vessel and we could now see its size. It was a monster yellowfin tuna! Gary and I talked through our plans which consisted of him taking the pole on

the top center step of the transom and getting the last two feet of line reeled in so we could get the fish’s head to break the surface. Meanwhile I would grab the heavy-duty gaff and position myself for a good placement in the gills. The plan went as stated and once I had him gaffed Gary set down the pole, I asked him to grab the end of the gaff, and we both pulled like hell! Once we had this monster out of the water I literally wrapped my entire upper body around him in a bear hug! I was not losing this fish!!! While Gary took the gaff out, I still had the fish in a full body take down on the aft deck! We worked the monster inside, zipping it up and securing it in the Pelican cooler on the aft deck. The yellowfin tuna weighed over 70 pounds!! I have never caught a fish (other than shark) that compared to it! What a beautiful fish.

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Cruising Outpost 117 10/31/15 3:06 PM

Flotsam & Jetsam I took a moment to thank the fish for his sacrifice and to thank God for his bounty. I was coated head to toe in fish slime and blood and grinning like an idiot. I was in a state of euphoria! We popped a couple of cold ones to celebrate and I stepped back to the transom and washed off while Gary brought the vessel back on course. We made our way to Abraham’s Bay, Mayaguana, where we dropped and set the hook. We relaxed for a few minutes while looking around and taking in the beauty of our surroundings. We were all alone in this part of the world at this particular moment, with not another vessel in sight or any sign of civilization ashore. It was truly a special “cruising” moment. I mentally prepared myself to gut, clean, steak out and filet the tuna. First I checked out the edges on my two

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Bubba Knives - they were razor sharp and ready to go. We lifted the fish out of the cooler, took a few pictures for the record and I got to work. It took me about an hour to complete and when it was done we had a dozen large baggies with four big tuna steaks in each bag, another dozen plus bags of smaller cuts, and chunks that would keep us in tuna tacos for a long time to come! During this process we were slicing off some prime pieces, rinsing them off with saltwater, splashing a bit of lime on them and eating some of the freshest ahi sashimi you can imagine! Once the task of cleaning the aft deck was completed I took about a pound of the chunks, sprinkled them with Hogs Breath Blackened Seasoning, and toss them in a

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skillet. We sat in the cockpit enjoying this treat, washing it all down with a couple of cold Kaliks. Ah, the cruising life is for me! Our plan was to get up at first light and make the last 50-plus-mile journey to Providenciales in Turks and Caicos. We were up with the sun and we made our way out of the still-deserted harbor and headed southeasterly to Provo (as it is called by the locals). The journey was somewhat rough, but not as rough as some during the last few weeks. About 10 miles out of Sandbore Channel we hailed TCI Radio/Radar Control and they went through their information requirements for sailing/cruising vessels coming in and out of TCI. It is a pretty thorough process conducted entirely by radio and it is designed in conjunction with the USCG to be able to respond to you and your vessel in case of an emergency. I enjoyed the process. After a short and fast squall that came through, which I loved because it cleaned two-plus weeks of salt off of Honeymoon Forever, we made our way to Sopadilla Bay where we dropped the hook. Active Captain showed a place within walking distance called Las Brisas. We found it and bellied up to the bar, ordered a pizza and some cold local beer. Later on Gary reminded me that his three weeks were just about up and he must fly back home at the end of the week. Time had moved by quickly. Monday morning we checked in with Customs when they arrived, but we couldn’t check in with Immigration because it was a holiday on TCI. Later that afternoon I moved the vessel to South Side Marina a few miles from where we were anchored. It was there I would base myself until my wife flew back to hook up. It was also from there that Gary could make his return flight plans. Gary and I spent the next few days getting Honeymoon Forever cleaned up, inside and out. We explored the area close by, spent time with other cruisers, spent time at Bob’s Bar for sundowners each evening, and partook in a pot luck at Bob’s. The days flew by and soon Gary’s three-week vacation, education, exploration and visitation aboard S/V Honeymoon Forever came to an end. We had enjoyed each other’s company immensely. I could not begin to write about every single detail, every laugh, every challenge and every moment of quiet satisfaction that we shared. Thanks Gary. Let’s do it again sometime.

䄀爀攀夀漀甀倀爀攀瀀愀爀攀搀昀漀爀

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Cruising Outpost 119 10/31/15 3:06 PM

Flotsam & Jetsam

Going to the Dogs By Capt. Robert Beringer

“The more I get to know men, the more I find myself loving dogs.” Charles de Gaulle-French President What would the world be without man’s best friend? Fiercely brave, friendly, and loyal to a fault, dogs know their loved ones in the dark. They dance for joy when their masters open the door and mourn horribly when they leave. Dogs are patient with kids on a saintly level, and they have an intuitive sense about the quality of people they meet. If a dog growls at me I figure it’s because I did something to deserve it. Dog-owning boaters have confided in me that they often prefer the company of their dog over people. This makes perfect sense. How many people do you know who love you unconditionally and would lay down their lives for you, all for the price of some food, water, and a daily walk around the block? When asked why she sails with her wiener dog Rudy, marine writer and live-aboard sailor Suzanne Giesemann answers that, “he brings a whole new dimension of love to our lives.”

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Canines can, however, be a chore to have on board. Once at a raft up on the Chesapeake I heard someone remark that, “I love dogs, and I love boats, but I hate dogs on boats.” I was recently reminded of this credo while sailing with friends on a newly purchased 37-foot Hunter. Milo and Sidney were basically lap dogs who were abruptly removed from their cushy existence to a life afloat. And though they enjoyed the increased time with their masters, they had difficulty adjusting to the exigencies of ocean sailing. The trouble started early when “Yip and Yap” discovered that they were unable to traverse the companionway ladder. They would bark until they were carried above or below, which raised the blood pressure of the already stressed-out owners. I’m no Dr. Doolittle, but those dogs clearly communicated to me that they did not like being cooped up on that boat. Of course, the dogs desired to be close to the action and would park themselves underfoot at the worse times, hoisting sails, tacking or jibing in a heavy seaway, or

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while cooking. And approaching the dock, this was the worst, they would bark like the boat was on fire. Their kindly owners were loathe to treat them as anything but mischievous children and enabled their disruptive behavior with soothing baby talk. When they barked for attention they just couldn’t tune it out and I worried that they would crash the boat. And there were times when we all had to leave them on board. The guilt was palpable as we motored off in the dinghy with both dogs yapping wildly. When we returned an hour later they were still yapping. Neighboring boats could not have been pleased with that. And then there was the potty training. A large Astroturf welcome mat was placed on the “poop” deck to coax them to do their business, but after three weeks of effort the dogs only stared at it, flummoxed. There were several loud and embarrassing failures until the dogs finally trained their masters to bring them ashore twice daily for relief and a walk. We left them at a marina in Boston with both dogs patrolling the deck, barking at anything that moved. But even with all the trials, it was patently clear that my sailing friends were far better off with the kids on board, for better or worse, a family.

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• Even if your dog is a good swimmer, have it fitted for a life preserver and use it. • Bring current health records to show authorities. • Attach ID info and your cell phone number to dog’s collar. • Dog meds and preferred food may be hard to find as you travel, bring along a good supply. • Bring leash and plastic bags when you go ashore; pick up after your pooch! • If your dog is a barker, try to drop your anchor far from other boats. • Teach your dog to stay below when commanded. • If you must leave your dog on board, it should be below with companionway closed. • Praise your dog profusely when it does business in the correct place. Robert Beringer’s first ebook, Water Power! a collection of marine short stories, is available at BarnesandNoble.com. For a free sample go to www.smashwords.com/books/view/542578

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Flotsam & Jetsam

Don’t Pass the Salt

I was torn. We pulled the anchor anyway and glided out of the warm turquoise waters of Bahia Conception in the Sea of Cortez. I was both anxious to go and sad to leave this incredible place. The last two weeks had been spent swimming with whale sharks and I think that is about as good as it gets, at least for me. Conception has shallow bays that are heated by the intense Baja sun and make perfect nurseries for baby whale sharks. The whale sharks, mommas and babies were entering our anchorage often, wandering around with mouths wide open, caverns scooping in the tiniest creatures in the bay. I was in heaven. But I was also sure I wanted to see the ghost town and salt ponds on Isla Carmen, so Dois, my partner and the Captain of Ashika, our Fuji 45, pointed us south toward the unusually cooler waters of Bahia Salinas on a desert island about 30 miles to the south. It was an overcast day; a calm morning to make our journey in the Sea of Cortez. Of course we’d prefer a brisk sailing wind, but the reality is that the wind is either too little or too much about 90 percent of the time. I decided to drop a Rapala lure overboard to troll for dorado or tuna on the way. This was our fifth year in Central America and our worst year for fishing. It was April and the waters of the Sea of Cortez were unusually chilly, a peculiar circumstance considering this was an El Nino year, 2015. I wanted to blame the water temperature

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By Lauri Hamilton

for my lack of fishing success, but it was more likely my skills. Within minutes of stashing my fishing pole into its holder on the pushpit rail, the reel started spinning like crazy. Dinner!?!?! Grabbing the pole I could tell the fish was large. I couldn’t reel it in and I had to wait for it to swim toward me. When he did I cranked the line in like crazy. Dois had slowed the boat down to a stop but it didn’t seem to make a difference. The pole bent as he dove. I was thinking we’d have dorado or tuna tonight and break the fishing spell. But no such luck; the creature came back to the surface and I could see it was a six- or seven-foot silky or mako shark at the end of my line. I could think of no way to retrieve my lure from the belly of this apex predator. I still felt awful about leaving my new lure in its stomach, for many reasons, but I had to cut the line, hoping the best for the shark. We reached the top of the island and sailed in close for a look at the “Painted Cliffs” mentioned in our cruising guide. The colors of the soaring granite walls were nothing short of amazing: coppery green, deep brick red, black and saffron yellow. The Baja geology never fails to stun me with its wild majesty. Rocks, cliffs and mountains look like the Grand Canyon meets the ocean. Cruising around an imposing rocky point (giving it plenty of room to avoid any awash pinnacle rocks) we entered the

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bay of Salinas. In the distance we could see something poking out of the center of the bay and slowed down to a wary speed. Coasting in closer we could see it was a sunken trawler, typical in Mexican harbors. This one was in about 20 feet of water, its gunnels still reaching for air. I knew this would make an awesome dive site. Despite the desolate location, there were two sailboats anchored in the main bay, both snugged up close to the beach, an act of confidence or folly, we don’t know. Dois and I are conservative sailors and chose a spot further out in about 15’ of water. We later learned that the bay is about 10’ to 15’ almost all the way to the beach, but we were happy with our secluded spot and settle in for an early dinner of chicken tacos and refried beans. Piper, our outboard lift, woke us up the next morning in full song. When fitting out Ashika for cruising, we installed the Gaurhauer lift on the pushpit rail to haul up the outboard engine, heavy loads of provisions and sometimes even dogs. It’s a pretty piece of boat jewelry; a shiny and robust, five-foot-tall stainless tube with small holes positioned here and there for adjusting the pulley arm to just the right angle. Aside from all its prosaic charms, it also plays the loveliest music. No kidding. It’s subtle, and the music competes with the howling wind, but from our center cockpit or our aft cabin suite we are treated to a lilting pan flute-like recital. Unlike the Pied Piper, the mythic and mesmerizing leader of small children, our Piper follows us around, enriching our sailing with this surprising added feature. The winds continued all day, gaining momentum from funneling between the mountains and across the low land where the salt ponds are, before barreling into the anchorage. The gusts were 25 to 30 knots or so. Not

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Flotsam & Jetsam bad really, as winds go, and our trusty CQR held just fine in the sandy bottom, but we were self-confined on board Ashika for anchor watch. We would go island exploring when the blustery weather subsided. The bay is an astoundingly beautiful and unspoiled corner of Baja, California. It’s a tad off the beaten track when sailing south to the port of La Paz, the more straight forward path being along the west side of Isla Carmen. Bahia Salinas’ anchorage is large, with room for many boats and the sun sparkles on turquoise and blue water for miles. There are long white sand beaches begging to be explored. The sunken boat in the middle of the bay was also sending me invitations, but the unusually chilly water would keep us from diving on the shrimper this trip. We could see the deserted village at the head of the bay from our self-imposed confinement. The following day the wind subsided and the sun was tucked up into an overcast sky, perfect for a hike. Dropping the dinghy into the cool waters of the bay, we motored over to our closest sailboat neighbors and our two dinghy-parade headed for the beach. The shore was littered with coral and shell and we laid down the first prints in the virgin sand, headed for the ghost town looming at the end of the beach. There is a caretaker, but our presence was welcomed and he was happy to let us explore his island, today that is. Tomorrow was another story. The island is a reserve for big horn sheep, and when their numbers exceed 600, invitations go out to hunters to “reduce” the livestock. The hunters are charged up to $75,000 per sheep head. And that’s all they get - the head. The rest of the beast stays on the island for the locals. There were hunters expected on the island the following day, and our luck was holding in that we had chosen this day for our hike.

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Rumor has it that the island is privately owned by Carlos Slim of the Telcel Empire, making it one of the few islands in the Sea that is not part of the Park System. And it is large; roughly 37,000 acres and about 25 miles long. You really don’t want to go hiking around this island without finding out whether it’s hunting season. That is, unless you want your head on someone’s mantel. Several people live here as support staff and there is also a well-cared-for, small church and a couple of guest lodges for the hunting crowd. The ruins of the saltworks stand tenuously along the berm behind the beach where they once housed supply stores, an administration office and housing quarters, and there’s the ruins of a pier. Everywhere you look there are rusting hulks of machinery, and even a small railroad installed by Santa Fe Railroad during their ownership. As you look around it becomes evident that this was once a bustling business. There is even a large safe still in the office where payroll was dispensed. Past the village, just a few hundred paces over a hillock, are the ponds; a landscape of amazing beauty. It astounded me to find snow heaped around each shallow, tepid body of water. Of course it’s not snow, it is clusters, towers and pillars of salt. Because the bottom of the ponds are lined with thick layers of the white stuff, it renders the pond water an impossible milky turquoise, surrounded by sparkling geometric bouquets of crystals; a fantasy land. The salt ponds were discovered by the Jesuits in 1697 and it wasn’t long before a saltworks was established. The salt from these ponds became famous all over the world due to its purity, and this was a grand and successful business for almost 280 years. But this small corner of

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Catamaran Guru

The Ultimate Catamaran Resource Baja was expensive to run and in 1980 it closed for good, leaving a ghost town to wither in the Baja sun. That night we conceded our need to move along. Dois had discovered a fuel leak at the engine fuel pump and the need for civilization was pressing in on us. Ginger, our boat dog, hadn’t been to the beach yet, so the next morning we pack her into the dinghy and spent a couple of hours playing on the beach, trying to make up for her extended conﬁnement the day before. That’s the great thing about dogs; they don’t hold a grudge. Again, I felt the reluctance of leaving an anchorage and realized this is a common theme for me in the Sea of Cortez. Sailing out of the bay on a light breeze, we passed the panga carrying hunters to the island. My ambivalence dissipated considerably when I realized we would miss the sound of the hunters’ gun shots. We would continue on to La Paz looking for parts for the fuel pump. Having just scratched the surface of the amazing Bahia Salinas and the desert island of Isla Carmen, I know we will return to this amazing place again, and look forward to another adventure in the Sea of Cortez.

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pg 100-125 Flotsam.indd 27

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Cruising Outpost 125

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Two Days in Paradise A Quick Trip to Desolation Sound and Beyond

This is

us!

By Bob & Jody Bitchin Additional photos by Darren Oâ€™Brien

126 Cruising Outpost

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10/30/15 12:37 PM

A ll work and no play

makes for a very grumpy Bob. Jody does not much care for a grumpy Bob, and so it was we found ourselves heading north after our Paciﬁc Northwest Cruisers’ Weekend that was held in Poulsbo, Washington. We needed to get away and as it happened, Lisa and Darren O’Brien were up in the Desolation Sound area after participating in a regatta from the Puget Sound area (story in this issue!). Lisa is our Advertising Goddess and Darren was my producer for our TV show for years, as well as a good friend. They live aboard Traveler, their 48’ trawler, with ﬁve-year-old daughter Arriana. Not wanting to pass up a chance to see that area, we caught a ferry from Port Washington to Victoria and drove up the island’s inner coast. It was beautiful. In the morning we caught a second ferry across the channel and headed up to Lund, where Darren and Lisa had arranged to try and meet us. I say try, because up there internet is about as sparse as the hair on Mr. Clean’s head, and cell service was equally as sketchy. But as we pulled into the small bay at Lund, which is basically at the end of the road, we saw Traveler tied up behind the small hotel.

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It didn’t take long until the lines were cast off and we were heading up to Desolation Sound. For years I had wanted to sail up their on my own boat, but I always seemed to head south, to water warmer than 80°. In just a couple hours we were passing the mouth of Desolation Sound and heading around the corner to a little anchorage Darren knew about called Teakerne Arm. Teakerne Arm has a beautiful waterfall at its head, and at the top of the waterfall is a lake warm enough to swim in. The climb to the top is not difﬁcult, so Lisa, Jody and little Arriana kayaked over and climbed to the

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top. If you look closely at the bottom photo here you can see them standing at the top of the waterfall waving. After a quick dip in the lake they returned to the boat where we had a great afternoon playing with Darrenâ€™s new drone, which is how the lead photo for the story was taken. It really takes some great shots.

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Cruising Outpost 129 10/30/15 12:39 PM

While we were anchored there we were stern-tied to an eye that had been set on the cliff so boats could drop a hook and back to the cliff. Our comic relief was watching Lisa and Jody, who are both experienced boaters, trying to row to the face of the cliff. They were in a 16â€™ Boston Whaler, and both were used to having outboards. That evening the anchorage was like glass, and we sat on the f lybridge doing what sailors have done for a millennium. We sat, enjoyed a cocktail, and hit the sack early.

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The next day, which would be our last day (or second day, however you think it best to look at it) the kayaks were loaded aboard after a great brunch. Our entertainment was provided by a boys and girls club who motored over in four sailboats that were rafted together. They came in as a raft-up, visited the falls, and then the whole raft turned and motored off to another anchorage, all still tied together! Then it was rime to start heading back towards the entrance to Desolation Sound. We found a perfect anchorage at Copeland Islandâ€™s Marine Provincial

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Park which was just across a short channel from Lund. We were surrounded by small uninhabited islands and protected on all sides from the swell. Once again the girls boarded the kayaks and went out exploring, while Darren and I did what sailors do best: sat with a cocktail in hand talkin’ story about voyages past. That evening, after a delicious helping of “O’Brien Special” (a single-dish meal made up of meat, beans, macaroni and cheese), we watched the sunset (bottom of page) and just enjoyed the evening. In the morning we sat in paradise and enjoyed a great breakfast, and then it was time for Jody and I to “head back” to civilization. Darren, Lisa and Arriana dropped us off in Lund, where we started our long trek home to start getting ready to head to the East Coast for show season. But we were ready to face the world again after just a two-day escape to paradise with friends on a boat. Sometimes all it takes to maintain one’s sanity is to get away for a couple days on a boat. It worked for us!

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10/30/15 1:32 PM

It’s a boat, It’s a house, No, its the Benson Ford!

The Magical Allure of the Benson Ford

By Bob Adamov

Built in 1924 by the Great Lakes Engineering in As the Lake Erie morning mist cleared on the southwest side of South Bass Island, we saw the bow of Ecorse, Michigan, the Ford Motor Company named the Great Lakes freighter looming over our heads. But it after one of Henry Ford’s grandsons and used it to transport iron ore and there was no need to panic. related materials across This ship was aground on a The Benson Ford underway the Great Lakes. The ship limestone cliff towering 20 on the Great Lakes feet above the water. It wasn’t measured 612’ x 62’ with the first time the Benson a molded depth of 32’ and had a carrying capacity of Ford ran aground. 15,000 net tons at midThe journey to its final summer draft. resting place was as interesting as the role I Rather than using coalfired steam propulsion, selected for it in my first of Ford, the innovator, had nine novels set in the South a British firm design a Bass Island resort village 3,000 bhp, four cylinder, of Put-in-Bay – “The Key West of the Midwest!” My two stroke, single acting Sun-Doxford opposed imagination would run wild piston diesel engine with a rated service speed of 11 with story ideas as I contemplated writing my first novel, Rainbow’s End, and incorporating the shiphouse knots, or 12.7 mph. The engine produced a unique exhaust into my plot. thumping sound which could be heard for miles. People

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Standing on deck today you feel like you are at sea

joked that the thumping sounded like the words “making money, making money.” The ship included black walnut-paneled staterooms, dining room, galley, and passenger lounge designed by Henry Ford for his own pleasure while traversing the Great Lakes on business with friends like Thomas Edison, who coincidently, was born in Milan, Ohio, which is near South Bass Island. Its maiden voyage began on August 2 with a coal load from Toledo, Ohio, to Duluth, Minnesota where it was loaded with iron ore for the return to the Ford Rouge plant in Dearborn, Michigan. The Benson Ford was the pride of the Ford fleet, but it seemed to have a knack for running aground. On June 12, 1959, the ship ran aground near Amherstburg, Canada. A few months later it grounded in the St. Mary’s River between Michigan and Canada. In December, 1981, the Benson Ford was decommissioned, stripped of the engine and other salvageable parts and renamed the John Dykstra II so the original name could be released to another ship in the Ford fleet. It was sold to Frank J. Sullivan of Sullivan www.cruisingoutpost.com

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The Benson Ford The boat’s forestructure on a barge moving to Put-In-Bay

Moving for the last time to its new home on land

Marine in Cleveland, Ohio, to be used as a barge, although it would only sail once more. After several years of non-use, Sullivan had the entire forward superstructure of the Dykstra, including the forecastle deck, removed on July 3, 1986 and transported by the largest barge on the Great Lakes, Thor 101, 60 miles to South Bass Island in Lake Erie’s western basin. The remainder of the Dykstra was scrapped. When the barge arrived at Victory Point on the southwest side of the island on July 18, 1986, the moving crew from Cleveland, who had brought their vehicles by

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the ferry to the island, saw that they had a problem. The barge’s deck rested 18 feet above the water, but the top of the cliff was two feet higher. The moving crew worked quickly to build a ramp so that the 194-ton ship could be towed up the next day. Fortunately, the weather held and the lake was calm the next day. A large tow truck was hooked to the I-beams and wheels the forecastle rested upon. Two other tow trucks were stationed on the cliff and also assisted in winching the forecastle section to its ﬁnal resting place on solid bedrock.

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In place atop the cliffs

Over the next two years the foundation and sheet metal work was completed. All of the equipment on the vessel was repaired including her running lights, her deck lights and spot light. The 62â€™ x 59â€™ foot section would be initially used as a 7,000-square-foot, four-story summer home for the Sullivan family. In 1992, Sullivan petitioned the Put-in-Bay Township Zoning Board for a conditional use permit to allow for the

The move completed, ready for occupancy once again.

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The Benson Ford

The “ship’s” dining room

getaway home. With recent renovations to the first operation of a bed and breakfast at the shiphouse. After f loor, the structure includes a garage and massive the permit request was rejected and a lengthy legal battle, family room, five bedrooms, five full baths, a dining Sullivan began seeking a buyer for the property. room, living room, reading room, galley, and the In September, 1999, Sullivan and the Dutton Auction pilothouse with its commanding view of lake storms & Realty Company held an “open outcry real estate auction” which generated more than 128 inquiries from 10 blowing in from the west and spectacular sunsets. The Benson Ford Shiphouse has been featured on states and Canada, and 58 inspections. When the bidding concluded, Jerry and Bryan Kasper of Kasper Auto Group MTV’s Extreme Cribs, Home & Garden TV’s Extreme Homes, the Travel in nearby Channel, the British Sandusky, Daily Mirror, Ohio Ohio, became Magazine, the the new National Enquirer owners of the and in several local Put-in-Bay publications. Over shiphouse. the years I’d marvel The father at the ship as I rode and son the ferry from the duo quickly mainland past the renamed ship’s perch to the the ship the downtown docks in Benson Ford and have Put-in-Bay. Even though I used it as The Captain’s cabin knew the ship’s their island

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The Captain’s bunk

background, I had other plans on how I’d incorporate it into my first mystery/adventure novel, Rainbow’s End. I decided that it would be the perfect lair for my novel’s villain, a Great Lakes shipping magnate who was bent on revenge for a past transgression by the islanders. To size up the shiphouse to the villain’s ego, I attached a French mansion to the rear section of the ship. I’ve been “onboard” several times and have enjoyed walking through the ship’s decks and cabins/ staterooms, taking in the very real feel of the glamorous age it had lived. There’s an indescribable magical allure to the Benson Ford. Bob Adamov is an awardThe stairway winning island author in Putin-Bay.

The nav station

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Cruising Outpost’s

Book Review By Capt. Jim Cash

Trade Winds Vagabond By Michael L. Martel

an old, wooden, gaffed-rigged yawl Michael Martel is a longtime writing contributor to Cruising Outpost (Rugosa) and proceeds to bring her back to life. Right away, the and previously, Latitudes &Attitudes. story, though “fiction,” grabs my Though we normally do not review attention because, as reported in the fictional work, this novel reads very Cruising Outpost premier issue, I, autobiographically, not unlike his previous book of too, restored short stories and an old wooden Williams finds an old yawl (Destiny). essays “Tales from wooden, gaffed-rigged yawl There is a Gimbaled Wrist.” something Knowing Mr. (Rugosa) and proceeds to Martel’s extensive about a wooden bring her back to life. boat; it seems experience on the to be alive with water, reading a personality Trade Winds Vagabond caused this reviewer to again and, as Nate ref lects, a soul. wonder if perhaps he simply changes Here, Nate is 40 years old and dreaming about sailing “the wide the names to protect the innocent. The story begins in New England oceans of the world” with Rugosa. Soon the boat is ready to go and off where Nathan (Nate) Williams finds

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he sails, with no specific long-term the next day Nate will learn that plan, on a solo passage, with the first the authorities are looking for stop Bermuda. While there, the story him, accused of a violent crime. starts sounding more like fiction with Rather than face charges he “ups our hero meeting a beautiful native anchor” and sails away, back to Bermudian girl, Amelie, and a wild, the BVIs where he again meets up passionate romance commences. with cruising buddies and Amelie He also who, in possession develops a of a brand new What is a good relationship with passport, suggests Caribbean sailing other cruisers they “can go story without the and vagabonds anywhere now.” and soon, leaving With Nate’s obligatory hurricane? Amelie behind, he secret intact, they Not to worry, we have must sail on with decide on the South that too. the BVIs in his Pacific, and the bow sights. All the wellof Rugosa is pointed traveled islands toward Panama and places are visited with the beer and the South Sea islands. This would and rum, mostly in the form of have made a nice ending, but no, the “painkillers” which flow freely. story continues with the transiting What is a good Caribbean of the Canal and plying the “trades” sailing story without the obligatory westward, with the Marquesas Islands hurricane? Not to worry, we have as an initial destination. that too, but Captain Nate has After a leisurely month at secured his boat well and he gets sea, the circumstances take a to weather the storm ashore in the tragic turn as they are attacked by arms of his Bermudian lover who drug traffickers masquerading as has followed him to the islands, fishermen. Nate will be forced to where they have a surprise reunion get to safety in an inflatable due at a local watering hole. But wait, to the unfortunate events, and is there is a bad guy, too. A notorious eventually rescued by an east-bound local outlaw by the name of Dirk freighter and taken to San Diego. happens to stow away on a boat Rather than following protocol, that Captain Nate is helping return Nate sneaks off of the freighter, to the Bahamas for repairs, and an acquires a vintage motorcycle (a action-packed fight ensues. 1929 Indian Scout, no less) and Back in the Caribbean, the heads to the mountains where he adventure continues with Nate and meets up with a Comanche Native Amelie happily in passion, if not American who, coincidentally, also in love, deciding to cruise south. rides an Indian motorcycle. But soon the sail through paradise I will end my review here at the is interrupted with Amelie having end of the sea story, but for those to return to Bermuda to renew of you seeking to live vicariously her passport. While Amelie is through Nate’s many escapades, away and Nate is in Antigua, he you will read the few concluding attends a party for classic yachts chapters to learn that the Trade and meets a young woman who Winds Vagabond will return to New fi nds him so irresistible that a one England, and is positioned to start night stand is inevitable. However, his next adventure.

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Audio Book

Emerald Bay Read by the author - Bob Bitchin

This is the full Treb Lincoln adventure novel. It started on a boat in Emerald Bay... and ended up half-way around the world! 5 Disc Set Reg. $27.95

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Sailing Shirts

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Dress your boat & your crew for Christmas... Cruising Outpost

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January 14–18, 2016

McCormick Place, South Hall

The Windy City’s BIGGEST Marine & Outdoors Show! Escape winter for the day and gear up for all your boating adventures at the Midwest’s premier marine and outdoors sale. There’s no better place to shop, compare and SAVE! • Boats for every activity and budget—from luxury yachts and family cruiser to fishing boats, pontoons, and personal watercraft • Sailboats, sailing gear, rigging and charter companies • Discover Boating Hands-On Skills Training and sailing seminars and workshops • Marine gear, electronics and accessories

Visit ChicagoBoatShow.com for tickets and complete show details.

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10/26/15 9:52 AM

Cruising Outpost Event News If It’s Gonna Happen It’s Gonna Happen Out There Issue #13

Evening Edition

Winter 2015-16

Jan-Feb Caribbean Parties

Cane Garden Bay, BVI Jan. 30th & Kimsha Beach, Dutch St. Maarten Feb. 6th

New Boat Show Crew for 2016

again joining together with Tr a d e w i n d s Radio and I s l a n d s Television. Sail in, fly in, hell, we don’t care if you just swim We know not everyone can sail there. But those who can in! Just be there to help will, and those who can’t, why not fly in, or maybe charter?! us celebrate this lifestyle. Last year we had two of the best Cruisers’ When and where? In the BVIs the place to Parties we can recall. The first was in the BVIs, party will be Mayette’s Jan. 30th, and in St. and the second, a week later in St. Maarten. Maarten we will gather at the Buccaneer Bar Jan. As we can’t think of a good reason not to 6th. Be sure to watch www.tradewindsradio. do it again, I guess we will see if we can top com and www.cruisingoutpost.com for the full last year’s events! To do this we are once itinerary! No registering, and it’s free!

As if boat shows weren’t already enough fun, we have added the fun crew from “The Whole Nine Yards” series in CO to our boat show crew. They will be joining Bob & Jody at the shows for 2016, and we are really looking forward to it. If you’ve been wanting to meet the two girls from the Nine Yards adventure, here is your chance! See you at the show!

Miami Boat Show Cruisers’ New and Better Venue for the Party Set For Feb. 13, 2016 Strictly Sail Pacific in Richmond Escape the cold and come have a free beer on us!

For some reason the Miami Cruisers’ Party always seems to be the biggest event of the year. Maybe it’s the weather, the time of year (great time to escape the cold up north!), or maybe it’s just because it’s Miami! Once again we will gather outside the Strictly Sail Show

tent at Bayside, to celebrate the cruising lifestyle. No reservations required! Free pizza, free beer and a lot of great people to celebrate with. It doesn’t get much better than that. It’s true the power boat show is moving, but Strictly Sail stays at Bayside. Kewl!

The new venue for the Strictly Sail Pacific Show is unveiled Craneway Pavilion in Richmond, CA will be the new site for the Strictly Sail Pacific Show, and they couldn’t have found a better location. There’s plenty of parking and the Pavilion is large enough The Craneway Pavilion for future expansion as well as lots of indoor looks great! They have a place area for the seminars. The set aside outdoors with twice in-water boat area is larger the room of our previous as well. The first event is parties, and if it rains, well, scheduled for April 6-10. there’s enough room to move On April 9th, Cruising the party indoors. Outpost will be hosting the This looks to be a great annual Cruisers’ Party at a move for Sail America and whole new location and it we are looking forward to it!

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LOVE SAILING? Sailboats | Sailing gear & accessories | Sailing seminars

PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE ®

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MIAMI February 11–15, 2016 Miamarina at Bayside & Bayfront Park

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Free water taxi and shuttle bus service between Miamarina at Bayside and Miami Marine Stadium

PRODUCED BY

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FIND US ON

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10/26/15 9:39 AM

15th Annual Pacific NorthWest Cruisers’ Party

Now that’s a pirate attitude!

Pirates took over the town of Poulsbo for the weekend!

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Every year this one seems to get better and better. This was the 15th Pacific NW Cruisers’ Party and the Brethren of the Sound got a new Pirate King and Queen, Marco and Cheryl. The only way to become a King and Queen of the Brethren of the Sound is to volunteer to plan the next year’s event. This year we once again returned to Poulsbo. Poulsbo Marina has always gone the extra mile to make the cruisers feel at home and this year was no different. This makes the fifth time we have returned to enjoy “Little Norway” as it is known by those who live and play there. It is like going back to the old country!

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15th Annual PNW Cruisers’ PaRty Forget your pirate gear? No worries, these booths had it covered at the top of the ramp!

Dave Calhoun handled the entertainment on the docks!

About 600 people sailed in on an estimated 100 boats, everything from 25’ sloops up to 65’ powercruiser’s. The marina reserved the whole dock for the event and we filled it! The Seattle Seafair Pirates once again joined in, announcing their arrival on the converted landing craft (now a land and sea pirate vessel!) with a loud cannon blast. Their cannon fire was met with a half dozen cannon shots from the boats at the dock. The pirate costume judging was hotly contested as you can see in the photo above. Also, there was a blindfold dinghy race which was hilarious at the start, when all the boats managed to get tangled in a ball. While they were trying to get it all sorted out, the one

A very confused start to the blindfolded dinghy race!

Okay, I’m scared! How about you?

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Dana Osborne & the Mellow Heads rocked it all night!

The Kings and Queens of the Brethren of the Sound

couple who entered using a kayak managed to get down the course and back to the winning line before the rest of the folks could get untangled. It was unanimously voted that next year no kayaks would be allowed!! That night’s Cruisers’ Party at the Slippery Pig was a perfect end to a perfect day. The band, Dana Osborne and the Mellow Heads, was a great hit and the dance floor was packed all night. Once again, the Pacific Northwest Cruisers’ Party was a complete success and all who attended were glad they came. The raffle winners are on the following page! Bob’s daughter Katie, with Coastie husband Will, joined in for the fun!

The Slippery Pig hosted the dance Saturday night. It was packed!!

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SAVE THE DATES!

15th Annual PNW Cruisers’ PaRty

and

TO INVITE YOU

R E S I U R C S E I T R A P

PNW Raffle Winners Above: The Dream Yacht Charter was won by a very happy Justin Broadbent . Below: The Quickline ﬂat-rope & wheel system was taken home by Dahl Vance, who looked forward to mounting it! Bottom: The WinchRite Electric Winch Handle from Sailology was won by Mikey Bambao.

THE FUN ! DON’T MISS

CANE GARDEN BAY

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Saturday, January 30th KIMSHA BEACH

DUTCH ST. MAARTEN Saturday, February 6th Music on the Beach Prizes Adult Beverages ... and More ...

for details visit

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Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

10/27/15 2:22 PM

B O AT S. A C C E S S O R I E S.

F U N.

January 15–18, 2016

February 25–28, 2016

Pier 48 & McCovey Cove at AT&T Park SFBoatShow.com

Los Angeles Convention Center & Marina del Rey LosAngelesBoatShow.com FIND US ON

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10/26/15 9:45 AM

5th Annual Newport Int. Boat Show Cruisers’ Party

For decades the Newport International Boat Show has been the premier boat show in the country. Not only premier in status, but also premier in time, as it starts the “Boat Show Season” for most people. Five years ago they asked if we would host a Cruisers’ Party. We said yes, and thus was born one of the best Cruisers’ Parties on the East Coast. This year, under the big top in the Sunset Lounge, right on the bay, we once again hosted about 600 people for our free pizza & beer Cruisers’ Party. Blue blazers disappeared and the cruisers took over. The band Triad

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handled the entertainment and soon there was a conga line winding its way thru the tent. Joining us once again were the folks at Dream Yacht Charter, Harken, Chafe Pro, Blue Sky Energy, Kanberra, Quickline USA, Sailology WinchRite, Heineken, Beta Marine, Mystic Knot Works, Copper Coat, Mack Sails and The Bitter End Yacht Club. They helped make this a great event.

Our pizza servers were all volunteer. Thanks guys! The band Triad

Dream Yacht Charter winner (2nd from L) with Lisa â€œVanna,â€? Judy & Bob

Colin Mack & his new bride.

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10/31/15 11:35 AM

Strictly Sail Pacific April 7-10, 2016

NEW

LOCA FOR TION 2016 !

Craneway Pavilion and Marina Bay Yacht Harbor T H E W E S T C O A S T ’ S O N LY

All-Sail

B O AT S H O W ! MORE BOATS! The best selection of brands at the best prices in one location

New model introductions • Daily seminars from top names in sailing Shop and save on a huge selection in the sailing gear and accessories pavilion FREE Sailboat rides • Live music & special entertainment for all ages

Visit StrictlySailPacific.com for tickets and show details Find us on: PACIFIC

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10/30/15 11:54 AM

Life Aboard Living and Working

We met Jay and Danica who live aboard their sailboat, work full time and do this on an island in the Caribbean. Lets find out how they make this lifestyle work for them. Danica: We left from Seattle in July, 2003. Our boat, Alkahest, is a Tartan 42, Sparkman and Stephens design built in 1981. We’ve lived aboard Alkahest for 17 years and cruising was always a goal for Jay. Our plans have changed more times than we can count, so that’s evidence that we really are cruisers. We took four years “off” to be real cruisers. We sailed Seattle to Mexico to El Salvador to Costa Rica to Panama, up the East Coast to the Chesapeake, back down to Panama, over to the Galapagos and back to Panama. We’ll have been in Bocas five years as of January, 2016 and we’ve been working since we lived in the Chesapeake area. Jay can always find work … where there are boats there are repairs to be had. He works on refrigeration and electrical issues as well as general boat repair. Everywhere we go there are always liveaboards who need their refrigerator worked on. I am a partner in a content development firm, Waypoint Ventures out of Seattle, and have two patient partners who are willing to work with me remotely.

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Cruising Outpost: When you are working, how do you explain to people where you live? Danica: Always an interesting question when folks ask, “Where do you live?” - especially since we work with people all over the world. Hardest question is “Where are you from?” At which point in our lives? Birth? From before we left on the boat? As soon as we say we live on a sailboat people conjure an image of us drinking pina coladas and sunbathing all day, but reality is: ○ Work is work ○ We wake up at a certain time ○ We eat and prepare for our day Cruising Outpost: What is the greatest thing about living aboard and working as cruisers? Danica: No cars and very little commute. We normally take a water taxi to town - in all weather (has its pros/cons). Some days we take the dinghy. Every so often, on the way home from work while in the water taxi, we look around at the mountains, water, scenery, tourists, etc., and think, “Wow, this is better than being stuck in traffic on the 520 bridge!!” I go off to an office;

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10/31/15 2:43 PM

Editor Robin Stout Aboard Mermaid

While Cruising this provides separation between home and work, as a boat is a very small environment. Let’s face it, I can’t even go to the head and get away with it if I’m on a conference call. The friendships. We have met so many people who are and always will be part of our life and considered “family.” Cruisers develop a community wherever they go; people helping people, and we know our neighbors. Cruising Outpost: Are you able to find what you need and want while berthed on an island? Danica: Town has everything we need, but we have had to learn to live without some amenities that we may be used to or be prepared to pay a lot more money for them. Everything arrives by boat or air, so it all takes time and patience. Cruising Outpost: With a Monday through Friday work week, how do you spend your weekends? Danica: Like most folks who work Monday - Friday our weekends are special and we try to take off on the boat and anchor out. We leave the marina, up with the sails, off with the engine and a big sigh of relief and contentment. We go to different little anchorages depending on time and weather. Sometimes we’re social and visit friends and/or busy anchorages, while other times we find a hidey hole and become recluses. Depending on weather and energy levels, we often swim, clean the bottom, snorkel, paddle board, play games, read and/or watch movies. Like everyone, the weekends go by too quickly. Cruising Outpost: What are your plans for the future?

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Danica: Our next adventure, which is slated to start next March, is to work our way up the East Coast, over to Greenland, across the Arctic, around Alaska and back to Seattle. If we are successful, we will have circumnavigated the North American continent. Cruising Outpost: The Northwest Passage is a difficult passage. What made you want to do it? Danica: Menopause cruise (hot flashes in the tropics) and grandchildren (we want them to be able to say “my Grammy and Grampy did …” Cruising Outpost: Do you have any words of wisdom to share with readers who may be considering a life like yours? Danica: Life on a boat in the tropics isn’t for everyone - but for those who have the opportunity and the desire to do it, it can be a wonderful alternative to the standard way of living!! Note: be prepared to have to convince some family members you really aren’t crazy!

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Cruising Outposts

Marina Chiapas Chiapas, Mexico

At the bottom of Mexico, even south of the treacherous Bahia Tehuantepec, is one of Mexico’s happiest cruising hideouts, Marina Chiapas. A quick bit of trivia ... the southern-most port of Mex is the former Puerto Madero. The port decided to give up that name because they learned there is a Puerto Madero in Argentina. So the new name for the cheery southernmost port in Mex is Puerto Chiapas! Note: the tiny coastal village north of the entrance is still called Puerto Madero. Enrique Laclette is the Marina Manager and his good deeds (and cruiser rapport) do not go unnoticed. The finer folks in south Mex wanted a nice marina to park their yachts in and tapped Enrique to build and run it. Enrique got to work and carved his Marina Chiapas out of the marshy jungle. Even updated Navionics charts show you plowing over orange land as you motor in through the beautiful entrance. Lowest depth was 12 feet. Enrique had a study done to figure how to shape the entrance channel to best flush his marina during tidal flows. You come around the corner and the Emerald Marina (it rains a lot there) is revealed, all very clean with a beautiful palapa restaurant, new travelift, and shiny docks. All check-in paperwork is done by the marina and Enrique’s agent. That’s a big service when you are ducking and weaving through all involved in checking in or out of a country.

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by Capt. Woody Henderson

Enrique heads home for siesta (like lunch, but with a family visit and maybe a nap) every day, 2:00-4:00. And he offers cruisers a ride to the mall. It’s got a giant department store, Autozone, Radio Shack, a Home Depot, etc. He picks you up on his way back to the marina at 4:00 p.m. It’s a great service! “Best Huevos Rancheros ever,” is claimed by the beautiful onsite restaurant, Baos. Morning internet and fresh squeezed juices as well as good dinner stuff and two for one happy hour - margarita rocks, maybe just one (+ the free one!). The marina owners and Enrique, knowing his clientele, got a haul out yard. And it’s the kind cruisers like, up high, nice breeze flowing through. And the area surrounding the marina is pretty cool. On the drive into ‘town’ Enrique points out that the trees that line the highway are teak. Giant teak trees - shortage alleviated (no harvesting please). And the area produces mangoes and the best coffee on the planet (mostly going to Germany). Pemex owns all fuel docks in Mex and has come up with a great way to generate more income from boat tourists: a dock fee. Enrique, defender of itinerant sailors, wasn’t having it. He got his local fuel dock to drop the fee ... for now. Because of Enrique’s efforts, many fill here and explain to the dock staff why. You can reach Enrique by email: MarinaChiapas@hotmail.com and they are Marina Chiapas on Facebook.

www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/26/15 9:29 AM

Smugglers Cove Resort & Marina Isla Morada, Florida Smuggler’s Cove Resort & Marina is located in Islamorada within the beautiful Florida Keys. It is the premier pet friendly resort hotel destination for vacation, wedding, or special events, and a great place to stay with your boat. The restaurant and Buoy Bar are welcoming and comfortable and feature live music. Also check out the marina. It offers great access to ocean or bayside waters for boats of all sizes. The slips have both 50 amp and 30 amp service! The marina can accommodate a variety of vessels. Just passing through for lunch? No problem. Pull in and feel at home immediately. If you need a slip for a day, a weekend or more permanent, Smuggler’s Cove is convenient to all that Islamorada has to offer!

Smuggler’s Cove Marine Store has what

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cruisers need. Marine repair services? Not a problem. Also live and frozen bait, tackle, fuel, ice, food, beverages, clothing and anything else you need. Boat slips are available for transient and long term rent. Not only that, but it’s a great place for crew changes. With all newly updated rooms featuring flat screen TV’s, Wi-Fi throughout the resort, and a beautiful view from every window of the marina or Atlantic Ocean, your new crew may not want to leave! And remember, Smuggler’s Cove Resort is an Islamorada pet friendly property! They welcome any pets... well, you may want to leave your elephant at home! So the next time you are heading down the Keys, make a stop at this new Official Cruising Outpost.

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10/26/15 9:30 AM

Cruising Outposts Key Lime Sailing Club Key Largo, Florida

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you with lots of water activities you can enjoy while inside the resort, and they will provide you with the local knowledge that you will find useful while exploring Key Largo and the Florida Keys! This is a place to let your hair down and just be yourself with other friendly fellow sailors. It’s a no frills, no hustle, no sign for this and sign for that type of place. All the extras are included with every cottage. Float plans include sailing into the Everglades to a remote island with a mud bath in the middle, a mangrove jungle cruise using sailboat and kayaks to explore a hidden lake, or just easily sailing around the bay. We have peace, tranquility, excellent sunsets, a helpful knowledgeable caring staff, sailing lessons and for-hire captains available if needed. Oh yeah, Key Lime Sailing Club is one of our original Cruising Outposts.

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10/26/15 9:30 AM

Be yourself... Everybody else is already taken!

There is one thing for sure, if you stay at the Key Lime Sailing Club, you won’t be bored! Can’t decide if you want a beach front vacation or a sailing vacation? Well, why can’t you do both? Head down to the Key Lime Sailing Club in Key Largo and grab a great cabin for as low as $140 a night and you get the use of kayaks, sailboats, dinghies, paddle boats, snorkel gear, bicycles, fishing gear, not to mention the romantic sunset cruise in a 40′ catamaran! All these at no extra charge… Key Largo Cottages is part of Key Lime Sailing Club, the place known to many as giving guests the unique “key-zee” experience they will not get any place else. They provide

Cruising Outposts Cruiser-Friendly

Be yourself... Everybody else is already taken!

Mexico

The South

Latitude 22 Roadhouse By the power plant Cabo San Lucas, Mex

Port of Delcambre 307 Isadore Street Delcambre, Louisiana

Places World-Wide

Bahamas

Sunrise Resort Grand Bahama Bahamas

Long Island Breeze Long Island The Bahamas

Florida

Nipper’s Great Guana The Bahamas

The Dockside Tropical Cafe Boot Key, Marathon, Florida

BVIs

Marina Nayarite La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Mexico

The Shed 7501 Hwy 57 Ocean Springs, Miss

Corsairs Great Harbor Jost Van Dyke, BVIs

Pusser’s Marina Cay British Virgin Islands

Bitter End Yacht Club North Sound Virgiin Gorda, BVIs

Jolly Rover II Key West Florida

Key Lime Sailing Club Key Largo Florida El Milagro Hotel/Marina Ave Rueda Medina Isla Mujeres, Mexico

The Shed 5753 Old Shell Road Mobile, Alabama

Neptune’s Treasure Anegada British Virgin Islands

Myett’s Bar, Grill & Hotel Fish & Lime Soper’s Hole Cane Garden Bay Tortola, BVIs British Virgin Islands Indiantown Marina 16300 SW Famel Ave Indiantown, Florida

South Pacific

El Cid Marina Puerto Morelos Mexico

Dixie Barbeque 3301 N. Roan St Johnson City, Tenn

The Mango Bar & Cafe Moorings Charter Base Neiafu, Vava'u, Tonga

The Shed 15094 Mills Road Gulfport, Mississippi

Marina Chiapas Puerto Madera Chiapas, Mexico

California

The Chowder Barge Leeward Bay Marina Wilmington, CA

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Rose Corser's He'e Tai Inn BP 21, Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, Marquesa

Panama

El Cid Marina Mazatlan Mexico

Marina Vallarta Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Bloody Mary’s On The Beach Bora Bora

The Bocas del Toro Bocas del Torro, Panama

Michigan

North County Grill & Pub 420 St Joseph Ave Suttonbay , Michigan

Red Frog Marina Bocas del Toro, Panama

Smugglers Cove 85500 Overseas Hwy. Isla Morada, Florida

Massachusetts

Bocas Yacht Services Bocas del Toro, Panama

Kentucky

S. Dakota

Green Turtle Bay Resort 263 Green Turtle Bay Drive Green River, KY

Lewis & Clark Resort Highway 52 Yankton, SD

Kingman Yacht Center Cataumet, MA

Know a kewl place that welcomes cruisers? Tell’em to sign up at cruisingoutpost. com

Cruising Outpost 159 10/26/15 9:31 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show Since we get to (have to??) spend a lot of time at boat shows, we figured we probably should do some actual work. Strangely enough, drinking Painkillers and eating show-dogs doesn’t quite measure up to what the IRS people think is work. So, in order to be able to write off all the boat show expenses, we actually have to walk around and find new stuff to feature in the magazine. It’s not an easy job, but someone’s gotta do it!

HoseCoil

Confucius say: War not determine who is right, war determine who is left.

Because a clean boat is a happy boat... and crew.

HoseCoil is a new product from Ocean Equipment that can simplify your wash-down system. It also makes a great after-swim system so that folks can rinse off with fresh water. HoseCoil consists of a mounting unit and pre-formed hose. There are options available, but that’s pretty much what it does. It is simple, easy to use, and it’s an idea we wish we’d thought of! For more info you can go to http://www. oceanequipment.com and let em know we sent ya!

Here’s a look at one installation idea, but it can be mounted just about anywhere as long as you can access water to the unit from your fresh water system.

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10/30/15 3:33 PM

I Found It At The Boat Show

Rainman

Confucius say: War not determine who is right, war determine who is left.

An inexpensive watermaker for cruisers!

The Rainman watermaker has simpliﬁed (and reduced the cost) of getting fresh water from the sea. It’s not as easy as the standard watermakers, but it is less expensive: about $3,995 for the gasoline motor driven unit, and about $3,500 for the electric version. This is the ﬁrst fully portable desalination system, either gasoline or electric powered, designed to be easily moved about and conveniently stowed. It’s designed for those wishing to avoid the cost and complexity of a permanently installed system. Also, it doubles as a saltwater pressure washer with the optional pressure washer gun. You can choose from the High Output (26 to 36 gph), Compact (13 to 18 gph), or Economy (13 to 18 gph) models. If you need more info on this unit you can check with Cape Hatteras Marine or Swi-Tec Marine.

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10/30/15 3:33 PM

I Found It At The Boat Show

Automatic Outboard Flush The folks at Reverso have done it again! Made life easier for cruisers.

This won the Innovative Product Award at the recent IBEX boating industry show. It’s a simple idea that can really simplify your outboard engine maintenance by eliminating slow, manual flushing after a day on the water. Since it is permanently mounted, it makes easy work of a chore cruising sailors often overlook, and flushing of your outboard can add years to its life! Outboard engines can require 5-15 minutes of flushing, and that adds up to cumbersome labor to “rinse and repeat.” The new Reverso Outboard Flushing System® is a built-in solution to systematically cycle your engine and shut off when complete. With this system the operator is able to make one-hose connections, push the button, and the engine will be flushed for the time required by the manufacturer. Then the system will turn off. It doesn’t get much easier than that. For more info go to www.ReversoPumps.com and seach for “Outboard Flushing”!)

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10/30/15 3:34 PM

I Found It At The Boat Show

Mantus Snap-On Light Rechargeable and recharges your mobile devices too!

Here’s a new product whose time has come. It’s a waterproof, snap on wherever you need it, light from Mantus that is rechargeable using a USB port. You can also charge your mobile devices directly from it, right in the cockpit or wherever it is mounted!

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The charging indicator will flash green when the light needs to be charged, and turns red when the light is charging. To operate just press once for maximum white light, two times for medium white light, three times for dim white light and press and hold for two seconds for the red charging light. Oh yeah, and press four times for the SOS signal! Once the light is operational, press once to turn off the light. This unit will snap onto stanchions, your dodger or bimini frame, and a lot of other places. It just takes a flip of a lever to remove it and replace it whenever and wherever light is needed. The folks at Mantus came up with this, and if you’d like more info you can check them out at www.mantusanchors.com.

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section Cruising Outpost 163

10/30/15 3:34 PM

By Lee Chesneau

500 mb Flow Patterns If you learn anything from this article, remember that see surface lows and their associated fronts move 1/3 to the atmosphere is a fluid and it is dynamic! The surface 1/2 of 100 knots in this case. Thus, a good rule of thumb: pressure field responds to changes in the atmosphere aloft a surface low or front embedded under a 500 mb “zonal and vice versa. flow” pattern in winter will move, on average, between 30 Surface low pressure systems have life cycles: they to 50 percent of the 500 mb wind speed. form, some grow and strengthen (even to hurricane force), Meridional Pattern then eventually they spin down and dissipate. An average In a “meridional flow” pattern, the iso-height contours life span is five days from development to decay. (Note: have more amplitude (north-south orientation) than in The National Weather Service’s (NWS) Ocean Prediction a “zonal flow” pattern (see example below). In other Center (OPC) words, the iso-height generates forecasts contours cross more through 5 days or 120 latitude lines than hours). The intensity longitude lines. and length of life of a “Meridional flow” surface low pressure patterns tend to move system is a direct cold air south and result of interaction warm air north in a between the mid highly visible aspect and upper levels in when comparing to a the atmosphere and “zonal flow” pattern. the lowest levels Surface lows and 500 (including sea level) mb short waves will as well. move more toward the An excellent north or south along measure of this a meridian than in a interaction is the 500 zonal pattern. Illustration A mb height field and Remember, the the various shapes they take. There are four (4) shapes 500 mb iso-height field represents air in motion. Therefore, or flow patterns that upper level 500 mb charts display: it is an excellent idea to look at the 500 mb forecasts to see Zonal Flow (west to east), Meridional (north to south), how the pattern is expected to evolve over the next several Blocking (always associated with a ridge) and Cut-Off or days. It is not unusual to have a progressive “meridional separated, (always associated with a low). flow” pattern (movement from one region to another across Zonal Flow Pattern longitude lines over the same ocean from west to east), Rapid west to east air flow where the 500 mb where the 500 mb short wave troughs and ridges, although iso-height contours are also aligned west to east is they are amplified, continue their “eastward progression” referred to as “zonal flow” (sometimes referred to as across the longitude lines in time. the “Westerlies”). Any short wave troughs embedded Cut-Off Lows in “zonal flow” patterns tend to move rapidly from If a 500 mb “meridional flow” pattern becomes west to east. Short wave troughs are not usually highly amplified enough, then it is possible for an upper-level amplified in a viewing aspect, but the 500 mb winds often low to form in the southern boundary of the upper-level compensate by being quite strong (100 knots or more) to trough and become “cut off” and separated from the main support intense surface lows. Also, it is not unusual to stream of upper level zonal west to east winds. Weak

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ridges separate the higher latitude zonal flow from the prevents the west to east progression (“zonal flow”) of sea 500 mb cut-off low that usually will be between 25N to level or surface weather systems (e.g., migratory surface 40N degrees latitude. “Cut-off” upper level lows tend low and high pressure systems). The basic characteristic to remain stationary, and can persist for several days, of a block is when there is large open longitude space sometimes up to two weeks. They may be accompanied between iso-height contours of the same value that at the surface by strong winds when they first form (in extends up to sometimes 30° of longitude. Thus there is particular, in the north to northwest wind flow to the west very little air flow penetrating the area, and so we refer to of the developing surface low), along with embedded this as a “blocking pattern.” showers and thunderstorms. Also, it is not unusual to In a “blocking pattern” 500 mb short waves will be have strong surface east and northeast winds to the north steered generally northward over the top of the blocking and northeast of the surface low center, due to the strong ridge. The associated surface low is also lifting north pressure gradient between the surface low which will and northwest parallel to the 500 mb iso-height contours be centered directly because it is blocked under the 500 mb cutto the northeast. If the off low and a surface amplitude of the ridge high to the north or is large enough, then northeast. Cut-off short wave troughs lows either gradually approaching from weaken, or are picked the west may try to up by the higher undercut or drive latitude upper-level under the block. This westerly flow when undercutting helps to the pattern amplifies set up a split in the again and the capping “zonal flow” to the ridge to the north of west of the blocking the 500 mb cut-off ridge, and eventually low breaks down. helps to break down They tend to occur the block. Blocks may most in the spring and last 10 days or more. Illustration B fall when the upper Note the figure on level middle latitude (30N to 60N) zonal flow migrates Illustration B represents a blocking pattern in the eastern north and south, respectively, due to north-south changes North Atlantic Ocean. The blocking ridge, in fact, takes in temperature with transition between winter to spring on the shape of the Greek letter Omega, and thus is called and summer to fall. an “Omega Block.” Note on Illustration A that there are also the two jet These are just samples of the basic 500 mb flow patterns. stream flow patterns…high latitude “zonal flow” within At any given time a variety or combination of patterns may exist over the same ocean basin. It is not unusual in either the polar jet stream (above 50N) and the lower latitude the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans to have strong “zonal flow” sub-tropical jet stream “meridional flow” south of 50N over the western portion and a “meridional flow” or even a (west of 40W). There is also a “cut-off low” south of 40N “blocking” flow pattern over the eastern portions. and east of 40W. Blocking Pattern For much more in depth information and discussion, A high amplitude ridge that blocks the normal or especially for applications in weather forecasting and dominant west to east progression of the upper level air routing, readers are encouraged to have alongside flow at the middle latitudes (again between 30 and 60 Bowditch, “Heavy Weather Avoidance, Concepts and degrees) is aptly named a “blocking ridge” and effectively Applications of 500 Mb Charts” by Chen & Chesneau.

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Cruising Outpost 165

10/31/15 3:48 PM

Tech Tips

from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop There are a lot of little things that can make your boat easier to use and more enjoyable. Here are some tips from Paul Esterle, the author of Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop. More can be found at www.captnpauley.com.

Installing Ceiling and Insulation Okay, so first you need to know that the ceilings on a boat are not the same as the ceilings at home. The ceilings on a boat are the wall coverings, usually wood.

Bonding the vertical attaching strips to the hull. They are being held in place until the epoxy cures with spring loaded shower rods.

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Here you see how to add ceilings to a boat that does not have them, and to add a little insulation as well. It’s not that hard, and makes a huge difference down below.

Attaching strips bonded in place, faired with epoxy ﬁller and covered with epoxy/ﬁberglass tape.

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Tech Tips from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop To start, three layers of 1/4” plywood strips, 1-1/2” wide, strips are bonded to the hull and covered with epoxy filler and epoxy/glass tape. The three layers of plywood will bend to conform to any curve in the hull. This provides something to screw attaching screws to, and also forms a 3/4” deep pocket to accept sheet foam insulation. The ceiling strips are 1/4” thick and 2” wide. I used cypress strips with a few mahogany strips for accent. The vertical attaching strips are placed with 16” of space between them. This allows you to rip a 4’ x 8’ sheet of extruded polystyrene foam into 3 16” wide strips the will fit behind the ceiling strips.

Hull painted and ready for installation of ceiling strips.

The ceiling strips are 1/4” thick and 2” wide. I used cypress strips with a few mahogany strips for accent.

Line Organizer What do you see when you go to pull out a dock line or a spring line? Total confusion? Do your lines act like snakes, multiplying and tangling? If so, you need a line organizer for your

cockpit lazarrette. I used a three loop handrail made from StarBoard and fastened it to the underside of the lazarrette locker lid. The lines are held in lace with Velcro ties or sail ties.

Overall view of the line organizer with lines in place.

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Cruising Outpost 167

10/27/15 10:01 AM

Bubba Whartz Bubba & Journalistic Ethics

By Morgan Stinemetz

Bubba Whartz, live-aboard, live-alone USCG captain misunderstanding as he proffered, “When was the last time, and the owner of the ferro-cement sloop Right Guard, in a movie for example, that you saw members of the media slid up onto a bar stool next to me at The Blue Moon Bar who are tracking a breaking story, portrayed as behaving in as silently as embarrassed flatulence during a Sunday a professional, responsible manner? morning sermon. “When, while watching a presidential press He smelled like last night. conference, did you ever see journalists who were polite, I nodded hello to him and waited for him to order a polished or pleasant while vying for the president’s beer from Doobie, the bartenderette. He did. Then he attention and didn’t appear to be representing the fan pointed to me to indicate to Doobie that I would pay base of WWE?” Whartz asked me. for it. Doobie knew the drill. She tacitly nodded her “Well, I….” head. She’d bring me a beer, too, I knew. In The Blue “The truthful answer to my question is that you have Moon Bar, on some days, life occasionally switches not. Working journalists, collectively, are represented to autopilot. I have never figured out, though, why as wild dogs, hyenas and hungry crocodiles in the only “autopilot” always involves me paying for Bubba water hole within 50 miles. Shouting and scrambling, Whartz’s beer. thrusting microphones forward like It is a riddle wrapped in mystery spear points, stepping on the feet The scary part was the inside a Crackerjack box with no prize. of their compatriots, they mob the perspicacious nature of I was still ruminating on enigmas person they seek answers from with his observations. when Capt. Whartz—he was this a forest fire of questions, the answers day wearing a white, short-sleeved to which are nobody else’s business. shirt with epaulets and dark blue Journalists come across as slobbering, shoulder boards with an anchor and three gold stripes spitting, pointy-toothed members of a mob trying for a on each one—addressed me with a question. “Do you verbal slice to the jugular of a helpless person who has, reporter people ever get tired of being portrayed as being inadvertently, found the spotlight,” Bubba declared in an members of a snapping pack of jackals, waiting for a unusually baroque, eloquent way that scared me slightly. larger animal to kill your prey for you?” is what he said. It wasn’t so much what he had to say that troubled Truthfully, the question caught me totally by surprise. me. The scary part was the perspicacious nature of his First of all, I don’t run with a crowd; I am somewhat of observations. This was definitely not the Bubba Whartz a loner. Secondly, I don’t prey on people. And, thirdly, who, from time to time, came up with malapropisms so I had absolutely no idea of what in the hell Whartz was far afield from where he had been headed that it has been getting at. impossible to forget them. So, I said what most people—be they heads of state, There was the time inside The Blue Moon Bar when famous sports figures, intrepid explorers who have Bubba defined fanatic persistence by exclaiming, “He’s conquered the untouched reaches of this vast Blue like Ahab chasing the Great White Shark.” I was there. I Marble or accomplished actors, painters or musicians— heard it. say when similarly surprised by a question. “That’s quite a question, Bubba,” I said. “You’ve I said, “Huh?” been ref lecting.” Bubba paused for a moment to contemplate my response. “Not so much,” Bubba admitted. “It came from a book He took a swig from his beer. He checked underneath by the name of Rants that I found in a Krispy Kreme the fingernails of his left hand for dirt. He looked at his mens room. There is some good stuff in it, even though watch a couple of times. Then he cleared up any residual some of the pages had been ripped out.”

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“Then you are finding fault with journalists in general, Bubba?” “A lot of people I know refer to the press as ‘mainstream liberal media,’ not journalists.” “Bubba, right off the top of your head, can you think of the name of one prominent journalist?” I asked him. “Morton Downey Jr!” Whartz shot back. “He wasn’t a journalist, “ I laughed. “He was an air host, a provocateur. His whole shtick was to make people angry by baiting them. He incited the guests on his show, as well as the audience, so that the show would be reduced to shouting and—occasionally— fighting. One dustup occurred on a 1988 show taped at the Apollo Theater in New York. It involved Al Sharpton and CORE (Congress of Racial Equality) National Chairman Roy Innis. It ended with Innis shoving Sharpton into his chair, knocking him to the f loor and Downey intervening to separate the pair. It was all ridiculous, but it was successful show biz.” “Isn’t finding an audience what journalism is all about? You know, being famous?” Bubba asked me. “In some ways, yes,” I replied. “Then I know some famous names in journalism,” Bubba replied. “Who?” “Jason Baer. He was famous. Media people all over the country were aware of him. I know that for a fact. Famous is what he was,” Bubba asserted. “Do you mean Jason Blair?” “Yeah, that guy!” Bubba elated. “Famous journalist. What did he do?” “He fabricated stories out of whole cloth or he swiped someone else’s story from another publication and put his name on it. Taking some other person’s work product and putting your name on it is called plagiarism,” I reminded Bubba. “It is like wetting your pants in third grade.” “Who told you about that!” snapped Bubba. I’d inadvertently trod where least expected, a definite ooops. I assured Bubba it was just a fluke and I’d

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forgotten about it already. I told him we needed to talk more about stealing another writer’s material and how cheap such a move really was. “Yeah, it is if you get caught,” he summarized. “If you don’t get caught, then it’s a good ploy. You do no work and get paid for it.” “Hardly. This guy Blair also submitted expense reports for meals and gas from towns he never went to, you know,” I added, but Bubba and I were on different wavelengths. “You mean he went to town A and submitted expenses for town B?” “I don’t think he went anywhere. For all I know he went down to the corner bar, wrote the story there while having a beer, and then put in for reimbursement for expenses generated at the town where the nonexistent story was supposed to be set,” I guessed. Bubba was into it a little deeper now. He was thinking. He ordered another beer. “You journalist people have some pretty picky rules,” he offered. “It’s my guess you cannot lie to anyone in your line of work. You can’t put in for expenses you never incurred, but you keep the air miles you didn’t pay for. When you say something is “off the record” that means it is like the discussion never existed in the first place, right? You can’t even mention it to some gal that you know it would impress enough to sweep her off her feet, so to speak.” “All of that and then some, Bubba,” I agreed. “No journalists that you know of have become members of Congress, have they?” Bubba asked me. “Not that I know of,” I replied. Doobie, who had recently brought a fresh beer down the bar for Captain Whartz, had stopped to listen. “One last question,” Bubba announced. “What is the good of doing what you do, sport, this writing and all, when, in the long run, it won’t get you much attention.” Doobie’s voice cut in like a straight razor. “Bubba,” she said, “attention is what you get when you don’t possess enough moxie to acquire earned recognition.” I may have heard Bubba say, “Huh?” I’m just not sure.

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10/26/15 11:34 AM

Talk of the Dock - What’s N

Here Kitty Kitty- News from the World of Multiple Hulls

As my surveyor once told me, a monohull is just half a boat. Mind your tongue, I thought since I was in midprocess of buying my lovely Indigo, a Celestial 48, which is indeed, a monohull. Since then it seems, cats are popping up everywhere and after sailing many of them, I can say I may be down with cats and all the innovative ways they’re setting sailing on it’s ear – or keeping it off the ear since they don’t heel. Yes, the world seems to be going to the cats these days but I, for one, am fine with that. Bavaria When the Germans are all in, you know it may be time to consider a catamaran. Bavaria Yachts has been building monohull sailboats in Giebelstadt, Germany since 1978 but they have just launched a line of Bavaria Catamarans by buying Nautitech and rebranding their latest model, the Bavaria Open 40. I sailed the 40-footer in Miami on flat water in 15-20 knots of breeze and it was a kick. The slim hulls sliced through the chop and the boat actually pointed up to 110 degrees off the wind, which is pretty good for a cat. The subtle hard chine about two feet off the waterline (at the bow) runs from bow to stern and keeps the decks dry but also provides a bit of extra volume for the interior cabins. But the key to this yacht is in the name – “Open.” Where traditional cat layouts take main deck space and divide it up 1/3 cockpit and 2/3 saloon and galley (or at least 50/50), the Open 40 flips that ratio and squeezes the interior while providing plenty of room in a very social cockpit where we do most of our living anyway. I saw the boat again, fully re-branded, in Annapolis and Bavaria has made some improvements. They’ve added engine throttles to the helms on both port and starboard for easier docking, changed out the interior finish to a darker laminate and added some shelving in the galley. Good ideas, all. I expect these cats will be finding their way into charter. I also expect that Nautitech’s larger models (48 and 54 feet) will soon be launched as Bavaria cats as well. And by the way, watch for the powerboat version of the Open 40, which is bound to appear soon in both owner configurations and for charter. MarineMax Speaking of powercats, if you want to test one, MarineMax Vacations is doing well with their fleet of Aquila Power Yachts at their Tortola base. You can choose 38, 44 or

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48-foot cats and never worry about raising a sail. Since the British Virgin Islands are packed with fun things to do which are usually less than ten miles apart, sailing can be all but forgotten in these classic cruising grounds and a powercat may be just the ticket to cover more territory quickly. The Chinese-built cats are roomy and packed with amenities and all three have a flybridge that extends outdoor living beyond even the cockpit (which is actually forward, not aft on these models). The focus of these charters is on luxury and comfort – the 48-footer especially will blow your mind. So far, MarineMax hasn’t extended beyond the BVIs but as powercats catch on, you may see new bases opening up. Bali 4.3 Out-of-thebox thinking has set Bali apart from the pack. Parent company, Catana, is building the Bali brand and primarily targeting these models for charter with Dream Yacht Charter. I sailed the 4.5 in Miami and now they’ve introduced the 4.3 that has two tricks up its sleeve: First, like its sistership, the 4.3 features the “patio” up front. Instead of a trampoline, the Bali brand has a hard deck forward with a giant, full-beam sunpad and a settee with tables. It’s a use of space that will make many charterers happy. The vertical window between the galley and the patio has also been made manual so there’s less chance of failure than the electric one that was on the 4.5. However, the 4.3 took it a step further and changed up how we think about the aft cockpit. I stepped aboard and thought, why is that huge side-by-side fridge in the cockpit? That’s when I realized that the Bali 4.3 doesn’t differentiate between cockpit and saloon. The large sliding door (on the ceiling when opened) lowers electrically like an old school garage door. When it’s down, the cockpit becomes the saloon so there’s no need to double the furniture and waste the space. To enter, you slide open the built-in door and step through. Very clever and definitely innovative. www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/15 12:44 PM

s New & What’s Goin’ On? By Zuzana Prochazka

All The Latest News That Fits Between The Sheets As an “Insider” Zuzana sees a lot of what’s happening inside the boating industry. If you are into the boating lifestyle, chances are you’d like to be privy to some of the things that will affect your lifestyle as soon as they become available. So here is some of the inside info she has found while working the boat shows and industry functions. Fountain Pajot Catamarans provide a great cruising platform because they offer more room, better outdoor living and in some cases, less seasickness than their single-hulled counterparts and those are just three reasons why they’re gaining ground. Another reason is that they are no longer Clorox bottles with zero styling and only all-white plastic surfaces inside. One example is Fountaine Pajot’s Ipanema 58 that looks suspiciously like the Sanya 57 that was launched only two years ago. The new model has extended the swim platforms for easier boarding from a dock or dinghy and offers an owner configuration and one with six cabins. If you want to charter with ten of your best friends, Fountaine Pajot’s partners are offering fully-crewed, all-inclusive luxury charters through Horizon Yacht Charters. More details are released via phone inquiry. And if you want to drive a big cat yourself, check out FP’s Saba 50 that still offers five cabins and is available for bareboat charter in the BVIs via Dream Yacht Charter. I tested the Saba 50 on the Chesapeake and came away truly impressed with how this cat sails. For a long reach to Anegada with a bunch of friends on a luxury boat, the Saba may fit the bill. Leopard Now, not everything is about size. In fact, many are seeking out the convenience of a cat but in a smaller package for both charter and private ownership. Leopard has noticed and they launched a 40-footer that will soon be available via Sunsail. The builder has packed three of four cabins and two heads into 40-foot hulls that are easily managed by two. It is expected to give the Lagoon 400 (which has been doing so well at charter bases around the world) a run for its money. The best thing about being able to charter a boat you’re considering buying, is that you get to live with it for at least a week and really find its strengths and challenges and that’s much more than you’d ever get on a sea trial. Leopard is a high-volume builder from South Africa so expect to see a lot of the 40s soon that you can test out for week or two at a time. Outremer For experienced sailors undaunted by size, there is the Outremer 51, a sort of replacement for their very popular 49foot bluewater cruiser. Fifty-one feet is a lot for a couple to handle, especially on a giant twin-hull platform, www.cruisingoutpost.com

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but Outremer has thought through the design, sailing characteristics and redundancies and there are folks out there who are not spring chickens but who are managing these big cats just fine, thank you. A hallmark feature on the Outremer is the twin tillers. Yes, a 50-footer with tillers. Owners sing the praises of sitting in their space-pod chairs aft on each hull and driving with a carbon fiber tiller. Of course, the boat also comes with a wheel at the helm station mounted on the starboard bulkhead and that leaves the tillers as a redundant steering system and emergency tiller backup. Not a bad idea for a go-far boat. The pod chairs are distinctive and you will either find them cool and comfortable or kooky and lumpy. Either way, the Outremer is one cool cat that roars when unleashed on open water. HH Catamarans Finally, when money is no object and fast sailing is a top priority, there is a new line of all carbon fiber cats designed by Morrelli & Melvin (yes, the M&M of America’s Cup and Playstation fame.) HH Catamarans is building fast, light, luxury cats in China and four models are on the drawing board – 55, 66, 77 and 88-footers. The first hulls should splash in 2016 and an entry price point will be around $2.5 million. With that caliber of designer and strong, light carbon construction, these boats will be of great interest to anyone who likes to cross the finish line first and turn heads while doing so.

Cruising Outpost 171 10/30/15 12:45 PM

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30’ Catalina 30 31 Catalina 309 31’ Catalina 310 31’ Catalina 315 31’ Beneteau 311 32’ J 100 32’ Catalina 320 32’ Island Packet 33’ E33 L Morse 34’ Ericson 34 35’ Catalina 350 35’ Bristol 35’ Pearson 35’ Hunter 356 35’ Hunter 356 35’ IP 350 35’ Cheoy Lee 36’ Catalina

1995 34,995 2006 79,500 2001 58,500 2013 153,000 2004 59,900 2006 109,900 1995 45,000 1997 94,900 2010 139,900 1987 82,100 2007 124,900 1973 19,970 1974 21,500 2004 74,900 2003 82,100 1998 119,700 1981 34,900 1999 79,995

36’ Catalina MKII 2002 36’ Beneteau 361 2001 37’ Case Motor Sailor 2002 38’ Catalina 38 1983 38’ Catalina 380 2001 38’ Catalina 387 2007 38’ Ericson 38 1981 39’ Camper Nicholson 1977 39’ Jeanneau 39ds 2007 40’ C&C 1981 40’ Catalina 400 2004 41’ Beneteau 411 1999 41’ Beneteau 411 2001 42’ Endeavour CC 1985 42’ Pearson 424 1978 44’ Catalina 445 2011 47’ CT 1983 47’ Catalina 470 1999

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Cruising Outpost 187

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Cruising Outpost 189 10/30/15 3:38 PM

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Advertisers: You can reach the most active segment of the boating community - In Print or On-Line. Cruising Outpost - Winter - Spring - Summer & Fall Issues Next Issue: Spring 2016 - Ad Insertions by 1/15/16 - Art Due 1/22/16 - On Sale 3/1/16 www.cruisingoutpost.com Ads@cruisingoutpost.com 510-900-3616 #105

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Cruising Outpost 191

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* Cruisians

I’m cleverly disguised as a responsible adult.

*A small, exclusive group of people who are mentally ill and feel, for some reason unbeknownst to anyone, that by getting on a small boat about the size of a jail cell and heading out into the most inhospitable place on Earth (the ocean), they will somehow enjoy themselves.

This is a picture of a happy man. Roger Martinso is at the helm of the 34’ Hunter named Wave Dancer. He charters from the folks at San Juan Sailing and is seen here sailing past Spieden Island. Actually, he sent this pic in for use in the Lifestyle section, but it showed a happy cruiser at the helm of a boat doing what skippers like doing most... sailing! Meet Ron, Kathy and Taylor Veperts. They sail their Catalina 36, Windsong, out of Point Roberts Marina. We met them while anchored off Cassel Falls in Teakerne Arm, just around the corner from Desolation Sound in Canada. They have been sailing so long that Taylor was brought up as a sailor! And she’s cute! Captain James Tanner and his wife, Amy, sailed in the BVIs in 2002. Since then they purchased and flipped a 34’ O’Day and are now on the search of the perfect liveaboard which will handle their new crew members, twin boys, to raise while sailing. A great plan for their life.

192 Cruising Outpost

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John Wright sails from the Chesapeake to Cape Cod. He and wife Amy have a mooring in Cotuit and on the Rhode River just south of Annapolis. They also spend time on the Cooper River in Charleston.

Larry and Amber Knudson sail aboard S/V Spellbound, their 1981 Lafitte 44. They are based out of Moss Landing Harbor located on Monterey Bay, California. They’ve owned Spellbound a little over two years and frequently sail the California coast. Jerry and wife Cheryl are from Michigan and have been sailing all their lives. A harbor master gave them a copy of the first Lats & Atts magazine. The pictures and articles inspired them to live the dream, become liveaboards and sail south through the Caribbean. We ran into Dick Williams while in Cody, Wyoming (?!) He was riding thru, as were we. Small world? It seems he has an ad in CO for his book “Aged in Saltwater,” in the Bosun’s Bag section! www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/15 3:55 PM

Parting Shot

Taken aboard the Hylas 54 Distant Star in transit from Tortola to St. Maarten

www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Photo courtesy of Mahina Expeditions

pg 196 West Marine.indd 1

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