OFFSHORE Autumn 26 | ISSUE 108
LIVE LIFE TO THE FULL AT THE COAST RNLI.org
SAFER DIVING REDUCE YOUR RISK OF BLACKOUT P14
| P2 SMARTER SYSTEMS: LIFEBOAT TECH | P4 KIT CARE FOR HARSH CONDITIONS | P11 BACK TO BASICS RETRO RACING | P16 NO WAY BACK: TIDAL CUTOFF
LIFE ON THE
EDGE: THE LIZARD P8
Love where you live ...
LIZARD PENINSULA Gig racing is a local tradition
Cornwall’s southernmost tip has a charm that stays with you DAVID GASCOIGNE
VISITOR CENTRE MANAGER, THE LIZARD RNLI
We fell in love with the area after spending holidays in Cadgwith, and later retired here. We have two spaniels and we love to go on walks down to one of the beaches or to the clifftops. On the cliffs you need to take care when the easterly wind whips up – its strength can surprise you! One of my favourite times to walk is during the autumn – the scenery is stunning, with golds and scarlets everywhere. In fact, there’s always a little bit of colour somewhere. If you went to the same spot 365 days a year, you’d see something different each
' I never tire of the beauty of the place'
Look out for the hoopoe, a bird likened to a pickaxe dressed like a tiger
time. As I write this, there’s a hoopoe flying around. And just recently, local fishermen spotted some orcas. My wife has spotted a basking shark, and we have a pod of dolphins in the cove. Another sight to look out for is one of the gig boats. Gig racing is a proud tradition around these parts and local crews train every year for championships in the Isles of Scilly. ELSA AMISS
VOLUNTEER LIFEBOAT CREW MEMBER, THE LIZARD RNLI
Everyone here has a boat, or a punt. And if you’re arriving by boat – which is the best way, as the car parks get full very early – you can’t beat Kynance Cove. It has a beautiful beach, but watch out – it disappears at high tide. Mullion Cove is good for paddleboarding and kayaking.
Lizard Lighthouse marks the most southerly point of mainland Britain
We have amazing diving schools, and a popular dive site is The Manacles, a group of rocks that are famous for shipwrecks. The water is so deep and clear, and the rocks rise out of the depths. It’s a protected area due to the marine life and the maerl beds (a pink coral-like seaweed) that a lot of it relies on. Sometimes, we invite schoolkids to the lifeboat station for a bit of sealspotting. Once, we had 18 seals on the slipway! On the lifeboat one day, I was lucky to see tuna feeding – they’re majestic when they sail out of the water. With the gulls swooping down it was a real David Attenborough moment. The coastline is stunning. One of my favourite walks is to the lifeboat station via Housel Bay. If your walk happens to be on a Tuesday – our training day – you might even catch sight of us launching.
' You can’t escape the sea'
SHELTERED COVES, RICH WILDLIFE AND SEA VIEWS AT EVERY TURN 8 LOVE WHERE YOU LIVE
Arrive by boat to beat the traffic
The maerl beds are now protected LOVE WHERE YOU LIVE 9
JONNY PASCOE
VOLUNTEER CREW MEMBER AND WATER SAFETY ADVISOR, THE LIZARD RNLI
Mullion Cove is popular for paddleboarding and kayaking enthusiasts
When I’m not on the lifeboat, I’m the Harbour Master at Mullion Cove. One of the reasons I love it here is because it hasn’t really changed – it’s retained its charm. The harbour is a lovely place to sit and watch the sun go down. Another nice spot is Gunwalloe Church Cove, a beach near Poldhu. For watersport lovers, our cove provides protection from the east wind. But, during spring tides, it’s important to be aware of the strong currents between Mullion Island (a bird sanctuary) and the headlands. Paddleboarders need to be mindful of offshore winds. It can look serene between the harbour and the island, but boarders can get caught out when they try to turn and come back. Even though the area has escaped the pressures of tourism, what has changed – for the better – is the food scene. Porthleven is a great place for seafood. So is the Mullion Cove Hotel, which has great views. My favourite view is from the clifftops overlooking the harbour – on a clear day you can see right across to Land’s End.
'It’s unchanged by time' Orcas are occasionally sighted
The Lizard lifeboat launches from one of our most dramatic locations
FIND OUT MORE • thelizard.uk • cornwallsbest.co.uk • kennackdiving.co.uk • trinityhouse.co.uk/lighthouse-cottages • makai.co.uk • mullion-cove.co.uk/suggested-walks Words: Darren Crew Photos: Jane Morgan, RNLI/(Andy Parish, Nathan Williams), Shutterstock.com, Geoff Squibb
TELL US WHERE YOU LOVE
You’ll find surf schools at Kennack Sands and Poldhu Beach 10 LOVE WHERE YOU LIVE
Let us know which area of coastline you’d like to see here in future issues by emailing offshore@rnli.org.uk.
RETRO RACE
RNLI Crew Member Gunnar Christensen shares what it takes to reach the starting line of the Golden Globe – with no GPS systems or chart plotters in sight You could say Gunnar’s journey to the Golden Globe Race was written in the stars. His parents and his uncle Brian inspired him to sail and seek adventure. Gunnar was brought up in New England, prime sailing location, and he’s a boat builder by trade. Plus he’s an experienced offshore racer. When Gunnar moved to the UK, he volunteered first with the Teddington RNLI crew on the Thames. Six years ago he moved to Lymington in Hampshire and he’s been a dedicated member of the RNLI crew there ever since. Now he’s 59 and ready for 'a bit of an adventure': 30,000 nautical miles, solo sailing, non-stop around the world, using 1960s-era navigation and communication methods. Gunnar enthuses: 'I believe the Golden Globe Race captures the essence of what sailing truly is … a retro race that evokes the era when sailors faced the world's oceans in a single boat with only their own skill and seamanship.'
HANDS ON
Gunnar Christensen
ON YOUR MARKS First things first. He needed a boat. So he went to Trinidad, bought a Hans Christian 34 (designed by Bob Perry) and sailed it solo – 4,000 miles – back to Lymington. 'Pompoen was very seaworthy,' says Gunnar, 'But it needed an extensive refit to be race-ready.' Gunnar left his boatbuilding job and he’s done a lot of the adaptations himself. For the task ahead, he also needed a new mast and sails. Stepping aboard Pompoen is like stepping back in time. You’ll find a sextant, paper charts and a single sideband radio. You won’t find GPS, chart plotters, a mobile phone or even a digital watch onboard. There’s physical and mental preparation too. 'Sailing by yourself can be a full-body workout. And you need a clear mind for this race. It’s a real challenge.' Part of Gunnar’s HANDS ON 11