PAINT A/W21

A/W21

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17/09/2021 14:56

ARE YOU READY TO MIX IT UP FOR THE NEW SEASON? WITH THREE DARING COLOUR STORIES, ASP LUXURY HAIRCARE AND ITS TREND EDIT ’21 COLLECTION WILL INSPIRE YOU TO PLAY WITH COLOUR, TONE AND CONTRAST TWO-TONE

Two-tone colour looks have been making their presence felt of late, from chunky sectioning to brightening, faceframing sections – with plenty of celebrities inspiring clients to give the look a go themselves. ASP wants you to take this trend and kick it into high gear. Encourage clients to experiment, be bold and brave by pushing the concept a little further. It’s crucial to have clear division between shades, whether it be top and bottom, side to side or front and back. The trend is ultra-customisable and can be dialled up or down to suit everyone: dark, light or bright tones, as out-there or diluted as desired.

Pale e E S N A E L C GET THE LOOK ASP SYSTEM BLONDE 9 LEVEL ULTRA-LIFTING POWDER LIGHTENER ASP COLOUR DYNAMICS ASP INFINITI TONERS ASP VITAPLEX ASP MODE

“The Two-Tone trend is not for the faint hearted! It has an awesome ’90s feel where panels and areas give pops of colour in strong lines. This look is beautiful on a precision bob or where longer hair is split into two tones. It can be extremely wearable, but for this shoot we chose to go all out so that you can see the look at its hottest! It’s a youth-inspired trend seen more on street style fashion, with a sports luxe feel.“ Tracey Devine Smith, ASP global ambassador 02 | PAINT

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17/09/2021 14:56

PLATINUM RETRO

It’s time to zero-in on that forward-thinking yet retroinspired platinum shag and perfect the art of lifting.

This whiter-than-white blonde is the secret to expensive looking and perfectly toned hair that turns heads.

The key to keeping this look futuristic with a nostalgic twist, rather than falling into a full-on ‘70s vibe, comes down to that ultra-clean finesse which can only come from cutting-edge lightening and toning products. It’s not without its commitment for clients, but for those looking for a bold change it could be the perfect solution.

“Platinum Retro is the ultimate blonde, showcasing lightening work at its finest. This cool ‘70s and ‘80s-inspired hair is for your clients who want a real fashion statement, focusing on soft hues of toner work. This was inspired by the rise in lightening work in the salon and the need for education – helping remove the fear out of this type of work. This trend works best on fair skin tones, and complements green and blue eyes.

If your client asks for this look, I recommend advising them to go all out – get the shag cut with the colour.”

Tracey Devine Smith, ASP global ambassador

GET THE LOOK ASP SYSTEM BLONDE 9 LEVEL ULTRA-LIFTING POWDER LIGHTENER ASP ANTI-YELLOW LIGHTENING ADDITIVE ASP VITAPLEX ASP INFINITI METALLIC TONERS ASP INFINITI TONERS 001_PaintCover.indd 3

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DARK SAPPHIRE

This is a lesson in contrasts, with the final trend Dark Sapphire standing at the opposite end of the spectrum to Platinum Retro. What unites them is a focus on toning and personalisation – this trend consists of dark, earthy tones, focusing on natural curl, texture and movement.

The result is both super-stylish and pleasingly longlasting. The key is your placement technique to achieve this look, adding hidden ‘pops’ of lavender and sapphire – ultimately resulting in a beautiful tie-dye effect.

“Commercial, wearable texture is every girl’s dream... when your clients have natural curls it’s essential to maintain them with the correct care and style. This trend is fundamentally simple, and is all about that gorgeous take on natural curls to enhance colour and tone. Dark Sapphire is hot off the catwalk and it’s a trend that all of your clients will crave.”

Tracey Devine Smith, ASP global ambassador

GET THE LOOK ASP DARK INFINITI (PARTICULARLY NO. 7 INFINITI PERMANENT COLOUR) ASP COLOUR DYNAMICS 04 | PAINT

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17/09/2021 15:01

AN ARTISTIC eye As part of the Trend Edit ’21 Collection launch, ASP Luxury Haircare is providing ‘how to’ content to all, with all the crucial information behind the inspiration, design and execution to achieve these stunning looks at asphair.com/trend-edit

The ASP Luxury Haircare Trend Edit ’21 Collection contains several nods to the past while remaining rooted in the current and future needs of colourists. ASP has invested continually in its product development and innovation in the past 25 years, to ensure its artists are able to remain just that: artists able to colour and create however they desire. This bold new Collection is sure to make waves in the industry and among the colourobsessed, with ASP’s signature colour intensity and vibrancy to ensure practical, long-lasting results with unrivalled condition and shine – the hallmark of ASP Luxury Haircare.

ASP’s mission is to continually innovate, inspire and create through superior product development and education. The scope of this latest Collection means salon clients are given the help and confidence to go as bold as they like, to use the looks as a springboard or for inspiration.

Looks created by ASP Ambassadors: Tracey Devine-Smith, Let Lew, Paul Thomas Farr and Sheree Thompson.

Photography by Richard Miles.

Get excited about a fresh colour palette to play with. For more information on ASP Luxury Haircare and the Trend Edit, visit asphair.com/trend-edit or call 01794 527 111 PAINT | 05

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21/09/2021 11:02

b t n i a P ideas d n a s e h c n u la The latest olour kit and confidence! to boost your c

More super hero vibes as Pulp Riot unveils the NeoPop collection, a set of five semi-permanent colours that will always be the good guys when you’re searching for bold colours. pulpriothair.com

With a Colour Kit for all 46 of Directions’ shades, there’s all you need to achieve the vibrant results.

As well semi-permanent colour, kits include a tint brush, pre-colour and aftercare products. directionshaircolour.co.uk

Schwarzkopf Professional has collaborated with PANTONE on a set of 18 IGORA ROYAL mixes, based on the colour expert’s three trends – Novel Comfort, Quintessential and E-phoria – translated by global colour ambassadors Lesley Jennison and Arjan Bevers, and colour educator Josie Vilay. schwarzkopfpro.com

Want to colour your client happy? Matrix has new quick and easy ideas using everyday techniques to enhance natural tones, add dimension and depth to all hair types. Check out Chocolate 3D Balayage, it uses three complementary colours to achieve a beautiful multi-dimensional shine and condition using the SoColor Blended Collection. You can watch the technique free until the end of October with L’Oréal Access! matrixhaircare.co.uk

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If some of your colour clients have started to embrace their grey, don’t fret! Find a new service to keep them colouring with True Grey from Wella Professionals. This new colour range delivers bespoke Silver Glow services turning dull, grumpy greys into a bespoke, brighter hue. wella.co.uk

Color Wear Gloss Toners from ALFAPARF Milano are all about super-sized shine in 22 curated shades, giving illuminating natural colour and enriching highlights without altering the base tone. alfaparfmilano.com

All hail the 2021 Most Wanted Colour Expert – Ashleigh Hodges! A former The It List It Girl, she’s co-director of the first collaborative brand-neutral artistic team, Hairdotcom, is the global colour ambassador for Davines and was head colourist for Little Mix: The Search. She clearly learnt something on the latter about securing the popular vote…

There’s more Light Dimensions goodness from Goldwell! Oxycur Platin offers up to nine and above levels of lift for the lightest results, while Soft Colour is a semi-permanent toner for highintensity, refined blondes. goldwell.com

20/09/2021 09:18

A quartet of creatives have hit on three key looks for the ASP Luxury Haircare Trend Edit ‘21.

Envisioned by Tracey Devine-Smith, Let Lew, Paul Thomas-Farr and Sheree Thompson, the Trend Edit ‘21 features how-to education available from the brand’s website. A key component? ASP System Blonde 9 Level UltraLifting Powder Lightener… asphair.com

Utterly customisable, French Glossing from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is a quick and easy service combining permanent hair colour for root coverage using Majirel or iNOA, with Dia Light on the lengths and ends to deliver a glossy, gorgeous finish. There are five new shades from Dia Light, alongside a new Dia Light Clear in an ergonomic 250ml tube to help pastelise your favourite Dia Light shades. lorealpartnershop.com/uk

Indola’s revamped Blonde Expert range offers its strongest lift ever, a collection of Highlifts and Pastels with new shades, new Ultra Cool Booster and Ultra Lift Booster to mix in and Integrated Hair-Bond Technology across the range. indola.co.uk

Leyton House Couture Silk Permanent Toners are specifically designed to eliminate unwanted warmth and create the perfect blonde hue.

Super-easy to apply, there are five creamy toners packed with natural ingredients such as aloe vera and green tea, alongside its unique Silk Renewal Complex leytonhouseprofessional.com

Holding out for a hero? Then reach for the INNOluxe #Saved collection, now available as a three-strong bond-building line-up for clients to take home and better protect their professional colour. innoluxe.com

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Hot for A/W21 is a more contemporary take on red-metallic copper. According to Rainbow Room International’s Suzie McGill, the key to this copper hue is “an extreme, mirror-like shine, which adds to the intensity of the colour, while also giving it a luxurious and incredibly healthy appearance”.

Her tip? Toning plays a huge role in creating an intense shade with reflective shine.

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20/09/2021 09:19

Heffy Wheeler @heffyx

e v

a e r Col r c

t i d l ui BAND THEY WILL COME

DO YOU DREAM IN COLOUR? WANT TO GET STUCK IN WITH VIVIDS, PASTELS AND EVERYTHING IN-BETWEEN, BUT YOUR CLIENTS ARE ANYTHING BUT ADVENTUROUS? LIVE YOUR BEST VIBRANT LIFE USING THESE TIPS TO ENTICE AND CULTIVATE A MORE CREATIVE COLOUR CLIENTELE

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17/09/2021 15:02

CLIENT ATTITUDES HAVE certainly shifted after the pandemic. Whether it’s growing grey out gracefully or daring to try a new look, colour artists have had their hands full with big changes. But there’s colour and there’s COLOUR – riotous, unapologetic, vivid colour through to dreamy pastels and metallics. Sure the streets of Shoreditch might be full of people wanting outrageous colours, but that’s definitely not the case across the country. That doesn’t mean that you can’t cultivate a creative colour clientele. We asked the experts how they go about it...

Just a uch

A full head of rainbow hues isn’t for everyone. But as Frazer Wallace of The Haus Studio in Dundee noted in his L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Colour Congress education session, “creative colour doesn’t have to mean vivid”, nor does it have to be all over.

Lynette Murray, co-owner of Studio A114 in Belfast, agrees. “Start talking about colour-pop ideas that clients can achieve.

‘Why don’t we just incorporate a little pop of colour underneath that section by your ear and see how you feel about it?’ Or ‘Why don’t we add a rose gold toner this time? It washes out back to blonde if you really don’t like it.’” Lynette has found that hidden colour is also going down a treat: “They can have ‘normal’ brown or blonde hair but have a secret panel of bright green or pink.”

Temporary colour, such as Wella Professionals Color Fresh Masks, are a great way for clients to try a new shade without commitment, advises Wella’s digital ambassador, James Earnshaw. Vivids queen Heff y Wheeler had a similar approach as she worked to boost her creative clientele in a small town in Staffordshire. “Offer pre-existing clients ‘entry level’ introductions to colour. If they’re blonde and want to switch it up, recommend pastels or toners rather than vivids to build up their confidence with colour,” she advises. “Nine times out of 10 the client will love it and slowly start getting more experimental.”

For Tracey Devine Smith, co-founder of French & Ivi and ASP global ambassador, creating a captive colour clientele is about personal bespoke service. “Clients want to feel special in your chair and to know what you give them at their well-earned slot is 100 per cent tailored to their needs,” she says.

“Building a clientele is about building relationships and having more than just consistency at every visit.”

Most Wanted Colour Expert Legend and INNOluxe ambassador Sophia Hilton knows that repetition is key. “Before appointments we have an email sheet that goes out to them, so we can understand what their hair is like and what they want. At the appointment they then sign a declaration that we discuss with them, so that the understand the blues are going to stain, or this is what it will take for the maintenance at home,” she explains. “This is also repeated on our social media, for awareness, and we have a Welcome Pack to give to clients in reception with everything they need to know again.”

PETER MELLON

MEDUSA, EDINBURGH

“H A

“At the start of my career my clientele wasn’t very creative. I’ve nurtured these clients into changing by building strong relationships based on trust. I’ve never been scared to show clients how excited I am about colour, what colour can do and how colour can make you feel. Sometimes it is as simple as suggesting new things to my clients or potential clients.

A hook such as ‘We have a new colour trend and I’ve been thinking about you’, is enough to get them interested. I also swear by open-ended sentences and questions where it’s difficult for them to say no.

“I know my existing clients well – what works and where their boundaries are – so I approach creative colour in a way that works for them. With new clients it’s all about gaining their trust and not pushing them too far at the start. They have come to me for a reason and that’s because they have seen my work, they know what I’m capable of.

Equally I know not to go too extreme with the first appointment.”

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21/09/2021 11:03

Finders keepers

The overwhelming answer on how to build up your dream clientele is to put out what you want to receive. “Building a creative colour clientele can be incredibly hard. Being a colourist in Cornwall, I was inundated with beach babe blondes and lived-in brunettes, so it made working with creative vivid colour feel a world away!” explains Vicki Hoskin, owner of The Grove Studio in Wadebridge, who used social media to amplify her reach exponentially. “It’s the perfect way to get yourself out there, and I am a huge believer in what you post you get! The more blondes I post, the more I seem to do and vice-versa.” A sentiment shared by many colourists.

Christabel Legrand, a Pulp Riot educator based in Taunton, knew it was crucial to clarify the kind of artist she wanted to be before reaching out to attract her dream clientele. “Try and be as authentic as possible while building your own brand,” she says. “If you are trying new creative colouring techniques it’s a great opportunity to get models in at a discounted price, so you can get content and start building your portfolio. Remember, models also turn into clients.”

By defining both your own brand and your ideal client, you can target accordingly. Christabel focuses on Instagram, which earns her the most engagement, rather than a scatter-gun attempt. “The clients you want are out there and they are also probably looking for you,” she adds. “I’ve found clients will travel from far and wide these days for good hair but also because they like you as an artist!”

“Social media is your best friend!” agrees The It List Entrepreneur 2021, Brooke Evans of BE Ironbridge in Shropshire. “In anyone’s local community, even if it’s small, there will be a handful of clients that want something different. Use tags relevant to the local area, such as #midlandssalon #shropshiresalon etc, and you’ll be surprised how many people find you! It’s like a domino effect.”

Jason Cocking and Chris Baker, owners of 4 Theatre Square Hair in Swindon, have found WhatsApp to be an unlikely tool to help get clients buzzing for new looks. “It allows clients to share loads of ideas even before consultations, so we can really build up that creative relationship before they’ve even set foot in the salon,” they explain.

Heff y sums up the positive attitude needed to succeed by concluding that: “Overall, a different community demographic is a good thing – you stand out if no-one else offers your services.”

EMMA SIMMONS SALON 54, THIRSK

“When we wanted to expand into more creative techniques we had to think about where to find our new creative colour clients, and how we could capture their attention. We now have creative colour clients travel more than 90 miles to us, and it’s all down to building our reputation and showcasing our work on social media. We used Instagram as a virtual shop window to let potential clients see what we could do, showcasing a high standard of the type of work we wanted to attract.

“We asked for models on the town’s local Facebook sites. The models got their hair done in exchange for us taking pictures and posting them to Instagram. These sessions also came in handy for trying new techniques or perfecting our signature style, ensuring every team member was top of their game. Once we had a few images banked, we started to see more and more clients asking for creative colouring. If you think about it, these complimentary services were no different to having an advertising budget, except we had a much better return than we’ve ever had on a printed advert.”

TOP TIPS

• Never settle for ‘shall we just do the same again?’

• Don’t be scared to suggest something new • Show clients how excited you are about their hair and its colour possibilities • Take inspiration from everything and everyone • Be aware of hashtags for your local area • Tag colour brands to show off your creations

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17/09/2021 15:03

ARE YOU AT YOUR WITS’ END WITH CLIENTS WHO SEEM R INCAPABLE OF CARING FOALK THEIR HAIR ONCE THEY W OUT THE SALON? SOUNDS LIKE YOU NEED TO BE #SAVED BY INNOLUXE It’s one of life’s great unanswered questions: why won’t clients look after their hair properly after spending money to have it brought back to life by skilled hairdressers?

Your new home hair hero is here. The INNOluxe #SAVED collection is now available as homecare options to ensure that TLC continues beyond the walls of your salon.

The British bond-building brand has created a streamlined three-part system that works brilliantly to preserve all hair colours and condition. The #SAVED range helps to protect and enhance professional colour, and clients can enjoy that salon-fresh feeling with INNOluxe’s raved-about shine and luxurious softness packed into each bottle. Meet the team…

SEND UP THE SIGNAL

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Discover how the INNOluxe #SAVED collection can restore your clients’ hair both in-salon and at home.

For more information visit innoluxe.com @innoluxeuk #SAVED PAINT | 11

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17/09/2021 15:04

With a

REBEL YELL THE PUNK VIBE IN REBEL REBELLE FROM PAINTER SARAH BLACK AT ADAM REED LONDON IS STRONG, RAW AND BEAUTIFULLY DISRUPTIVE. SHE CELEBRATES THE REBELS, THE MISFITS, THE RULE-BREAKERS – THE ONES WHO ARE UNAPOLOGETICALLY THEMSELVES – INSPIRED BY THE FREEDOM THAT THE PUNK SUBCULTURE REPRESENTS. THIS IS A REBEL WITH A CAUSE… PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIGUEL CEPERO 12 | PAINT

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COLOUR Sarah Black, Adam Reed London (@whatsarahdoes), assisted by Holly Matheson (@hairbyholls_), Sophie Marcus (@sophiemariahshair) at Adam Reed London.

MAKE-UP Aimee Twist (@aimeetwistartistry), assisted by Erika Freedman (@erikafreedman). PHOTOGRAPHY Miguel Cepero (@migs_photos), assisted by Sonora Gregori (@callmesonora)

OPINION

EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE

A COLOUR THAT LOOKS GREAT ON SOCIAL MEDIA MIGHT BE CAUSING UNTOLD DAMAGE THROUGH LAZY METHODS, ARGUES GUSTAV FOUCHE, FOUNDER OF WESTBOURNE GROVE’S GUSTAV FOUCHE SALON I STRIVE TO provide each and every client with the best possible results. This means I need to consider their lifestyle along with the products I recommend for them in the salon and at home and, most importantly, the techniques I will use when colouring their hair. My philosophy has always been that healthy hair is the best advert I can possibly ask for.

I love scrolling through social media to see what other stylists and colourists are creating, and there is some amazing work out there. But all too often the looks are being created in a lazy way, at risk of permanently damaging the client’s hair. When I started training, my mentor taught me to be especially careful never to over-bleach or over-colour, to always think carefully about where to place the colour so I don’t overlap my highlights, which could damage the hair that’s already coloured. “If you don’t have to colour the hair, don’t, unless a client wants it to be done and you think it’s the right thing to do,” he said.

I see so many colourists thinking they can fix anything by using a root melt, root drag or a smudge after they have used too-strong a developer and lifted the hair to white. These techniques are designed to help us achieve the best results or blend better, but should only be used when you have provided the best pre-service possible. Knowing how far you want to lift the hair is important. Lifting all the way through to white just isn’t necessary when creating a copper-toned look. Over-processing hair damages the cuticle layer, which leads to the hair looking dull and becoming brittle and dry.

When I balayage or foilyage, I make sure to blend into the hair from the colour placement to leave little or no demarcation line. It does take longer to apply this way, but that is why clients pay more for a balayage than a tint.

Taking shortcuts with balayage – like adding bleach much closer to the roots than is needed before doing a root melt to soften the demarcation line, or creating a fake root (which could have been avoided with clever placement) – means the roots end up being bleached unnecessarily. Worse than that, the hair will go through a second chemical process when the root melt or toner is applied. Repeating this excessive colouring every six to eight weeks has the health of the hair ruined within a few months, leaving it dull, dry, and in desperate need of a treatment.

We need to remember that our clients’ hair is precious and do our best to preserve it, which is why I am such a massive advocate for education.

Each stylist in my salon attends between four and six courses a year at the Wella Studios to keep up-to-date. I also encourage them to enter the Wella TrendVision Awards – it really helps them be more conscious of the techniques they use, as we try to keep hair looking as lush as it can be.

Have you got an opinion to share? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation 14 | PAINT

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