Creative HEAD July/August 2013

JULY/AUGUST 2013 £4.50

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P O T OONF THE …

D L WOR ESS C C U S F O Y E N JOUR CAPTURING A

Anthony Mascolo

A DECADE OF SUCCESS This is a story about family. It’s about three hairdressers and one make-up artist taking control of their destinies and rediscovering their love of all things creative.

From the birth of Bed Head Studio to the creation of a formidable global brand, the past decade has been one of discovery and learning. This is TIGI. And this is how it happened‌

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IN 2003, ANTHONY AND PAT Mascolo, together with Anthony’s brothers, Bruno and Guy, decided to break out on their own and take TIGI to a global audience.

For Anthony, who had enjoyed many successful years as a hairdresser, this meant losing his work base in London and rebuilding the creative side of his work in a different venue and with a new team. “To say that it was daunting is an understatement,” he admits. However, with the help and support of his wife Pat, they began to reconstruct the creative side of their careers through TIGI. But first they needed a creative space to work from.

One morning, on leaving their flat in Battersea, South London, Anthony and Pat noticed vacant offices in the small square where they lived. Later that day they visited to see if it might make a workspace. “To my delight, I discovered at the back of the offices was a reasonably large open space. It was perfect for a small office and a studio,” says Anthony. And Bed Head Studio was born.

Over the next 12 months, Anthony and Pat pulled together a small team, but they still needed to develop the one thing they have always believed is key to hairdressing success – education. So Anthony contacted former colleague Nick Irwin, who was then working as a session hairdresser. Nick jumped at the opportunity and from there the team grew and grew, signing up Akos Bodi, Maria Kovacs, Heath Grout, Marco Iafrate and Gen Itoh.

The TIGI International Creative Team was in place and ready to roll.

Both the team and the TIGI photographic collections quickly gained recognition, so a larger studio space was required. Lady Luck struck again when a large studio space became available next to TIGI’s Bed Head Studio.

The brand could then expand its team of shutterbugs and develop the photographic side of the studio to become as much a defining part of TIGI as its fantastic products.

Today, Anthony Mascolo and the TIGI International Creative Team spend months researching and searching for suitable locations for its TIGI couture collections.

They seek inspiration from a variety of sources, from photographer Helmut Newton to Japanese avant-garde designer Kei Kagami, as well as British fashion favourites Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and cultural icons such as Coca-Cola and Persil. The prêt-àporter collections, meanwhile, are often inspired by street fashion, cultural trends, music, film and fashion weeks.

While Bed Head Studio might be unrecognisable from the space Anthony and Pat took on in 2003, it nevertheless retains its artistry and friendliness. “The family that we created has grown up, but our creative influence and strength remains,” says Anthony.

LET HAIR SPEAK VOLUMES Whether they’re shaking their booty to Beyoncé at V Festival, rocking out with The Rolling Stones at Glastonbury or hanging with Jay-Z and JT at Wireless, make sure your clients look the part with Bed Head by TIGI

FESTIVAL MUST-HAVE: OH BEE HIVE! FROM BED HEAD BY TIGI

WHY CLIENTS NEED IT: It’s a dry shampoo – but not as you know it! Get a little ’60s inspiration in a shiny can with Oh Bee Hive!, guaranteed to give an up-do some Brigitte Bardot-inspired volume. While undone hair is the ‘done’ thing at festivals, nobody likes a greasy mop, which is why this dry shampoo is a must-have, absorbing excess oils with just a spritz of the super-fine powder, releasing massive body and creating sky-high volume. But Oh Bee Hive! isn’t just about making hair look good, it also protects and strengthens thanks to a UV absorber and hydrolysed keratin, with the addition of starch to absorb oil and grease.

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TIGI AT V FESTIVAL !

AND WIRELESSe Team,

tional Creativ The TIGI Interna m d selected stylists fro TIGI educators an and s llie we ir tting on the TIGI salons are pu to set er mm su s thi ls ir too picking up their ha VIP areas TIGI salon in the up their very own s, styling les ire W d an stival backstage at V Fe – so ers sicians to A-list everyone from mu his d an ny tho An keep an eye out for near you! star team in a field

FESTIVAL MUST-HAVE: UP FRONT ROCKING GEL POMADE FROM BED HEAD BY TIGI

WHY CLIENTS NEED IT: Male grooming is coming to the fore this summer and it’s about time too! Both men and women can get into the current trend for androgyny with Up Front Rocking Gel Pomade. Designed to create sleek, shiny, sculpted quiffs, Up Front holds your client’s style even when they’re rockin’ all day and all night. With ingredients such as conditioning and moisturising glycerine, hydrogenated soybean oil to control frizziness and enhance shine, and styling polymer to keep that style in place and fight humidity, Up Front guarantees hair stays looking good, no matter how muddy the rest of them gets!

STANDS FOR…

Sleek, sensual, sensational… simply beautiful.

Meet S Factor

by TIGI

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COCO CHANEL ONCE SAID that a girl should be two things: classy and fabulous – something that TIGI wholeheartedly agrees with, which is why the brand created S Factor.

Designed for women who want sensational hair every day of the week, S Factor enables clients to create glamorous hairstyles whenever they want – it’s hair with star quality.

MEET THE S FACTOR TEAM

Keep hair colour red carpet-ready with S Factor True Lasting Colour Shampoo and Conditioner and True Lasting Colour Hair Oil. Infused with ultra-sheer micro-shine oils, the shampoo and conditioner nourishes and protects colour for up to 40 consecutive uses, while the oil ensures clients’ colour won’t fade under the spotlight and will protect from heat damage. For colour that needs a little extra TLC before seeing the limelight, give clients Serious Conditioner. This intensive hair remedy is a scientific blend of ingredients that includes sunflower seed oil and hydrolysed silk. For dramatic, gasp-worthy results, advise clients to leave in for three to five minutes before rinsing.

COLOUR RULES…

TIGI’s global technical creative director, Christel Lundqvist, reveals the S/S13 catwalk trends and how you can achieve them with fashion tribes

Tigi at S/S13 fashion weeks

YOU CAN’T PIGEONHOLE a client, but you can work out their fashion tribe, and TIGI has identified six for clients to associate with. By identifying their tribe, you can create specific looks and colour techniques that best suit your client.

“Remember, there is no age limit when it comes to fashion, but colour choice is a leading factor in how you are seen by others,” adds Christel. The six fashion tribes are: ECO-FASHION: this colour palette is natural-looking with effects veering towards natural finishes, such as seamless highlights and glossing.

CLASSIC: a sophisticated palette that encompasses black, red, blonde and brunette. Hair is timeless and exudes shine and smoothness.

HAUTE COUTURE: ‘polished with a twist’, this appeals most for blondes, brunettes and soft reds.

CONTEMPORARY: inspired by fashion, celebrity trends and street-inspired music, this tribe likes creative highlights, seamless colour blending and two-tier lightening techniques.

STREET: a tribe that loves to make a statement, Street expresses itself the chosen colour palette of blonde, brunette, violet and black shades.

GLOBAL URBAN: bold and edgy, this colour palette is limitless, from the palest blondes to the deepest blacks.

“Summer’s red palette is full of orange tones, such as tangerine and terracotta red” CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST

THE CATWALK

“Blondes are clean and bright, such as orchid white and lily blonde” CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST

THE SALON

Create catwalk-ready colour with the new gloss shades from TIGI copyright©olour THIS SUMMER, colourists can make all of their colour clients’ dreams come true thanks to the extended TIGI copyright©olour gloss range. Perfect for the fashion-forward client, the range now includes six new gloss shades and a lower volume activator, enabling couture colour looks.

The extended gloss range is now more flexible and more creative, allowing colourists to tailor the perfect shade for every client, from soft demi glazes to high-performance iridescent looks – no off-the-rack colour here!

“Each shade has its own distinctive capabilities, adding a new dimension to the TIGI copyright©olour portfolio. We are very excited to bring out this new collection featuring unique fashion shades and high-demand commercial colours,” says Christel.

LOVE THE NEW SHADES!

the most out of the Learn how to get ’s copyright©olour new hues with TIGI ed by co on urse. Develop Creative Consultati prove im to s aim , this course Christel Lundqvist fying nti ide by ts en cli e ts giv e of the service colouris on to m rk by linking the shades that will wo ristel Ch , be tri ch ea r s. Fo the six fashion tribe and louring techniques has detailed the co t’s en cli the e nc enha tones that work to w no is se ur co is Th style and loyalty. academies being run in TIGI glo across the be.

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AND AT HOME

As every fashionista worth her Chanel Lego clutch knows, fashion starts at home. This is why TIGI has created a fashion-inspired wash and care range, ensuring clients’ hair looks as good as their outfits

FOR THOSE WHO LIKE A LITTLE LUXURY

Those who loved TIGI Catwalk Oatmeal & Honey wash and care range and grieved its passing can rejoice as its sheer indulgence is back and better than ever. The new and improved nourishing formula has acacia honey, wheat protein and vitamin E to replenish dry hair, leaving it silky-soft and super-shiny. The intoxicating fragrance is as wonderfully memorable as ever and the good news is that with repeat usage hair will benefit from the reparative, nourishing properties.

FOR THOSE WHO LIKE TO STAND OUT

Fashionista sulphate-free violet shampoo and conditioner boosts cool tones to give blonde, grey and white hair a captivating shine – because blondes need to be adored! Thanks to an illuminating complex of violet, pearl extract and rice milk, Fashionista enhances blonde shades and reduces yellow tones. The shampoo and conditioner begin to react on the hair within one minute, but can be left for up to 10 minutes to achieve a stronger tone.

FOR THOSE WHO LIKE THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE

Say farewell to thin, lifeless hair with the new and improved formulation of Your Highness Elevating Shampoo and Conditioner. Lavender and sweet almond oil deliver weightless moisture to the finest of hair, while anti-static polymers prevent flyaways and add volume and shine.

FOR MORE ABOUT TIGI COPYRIGHT©OLOUR AND EDUCATION, VISIT WWW.TIGIPROFESSIONALS.COM/COLOUR, FOR MORE ON BEDHEAD BY TIGI, CALL 0844 844 0944 OR VISIT WWW.BEDHEADBYTIGI.COM AND FOR DETAILS ON S FACTOR, VISIT WWW.SFACTORBYTIGI.COM

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Anthony Mascolo, Founder of Tigi Christel Lundqvist, global Technical Creative Director

Nick Irwin global Creative Director

Only available in TIGI salons, for your nearest salon go to...

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NEW UP FRONT Rocking Gel Pomade and OH BEE HIVE! Matte Dry shampoo.

Developed by the TIGI Creative Team Become a TIGI stockist: UK: 0844 844 0944 | Ireland: 01890 812 022

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THIS SEASON’S MUST-HAVE ACCESSORY

LABEL.M UNVEILS A LIMITED EDITION SCARF FROM THE AWARD-WINNING LONDON FASHION DESIGNER GILES DEACON Giles signature hand drawn fashion illustrations encapsulate his iconic and individual style.

The bold, striking and vibrant print inspired by his SS13 catwalk collection, works to create a unique fashion scarf evoking strong yet ultra feminine style.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

JJuly/August

CREATIVE HEAD

107

86

RESEARCH SHOWS THAT people who have international experience are better problem solvers, display more creativity and, wait for it, get promoted more quickly*. It appears the benefits of working abroad are endless and in an industry like hairdressing, in which the UK leads the pack, UK stylists are landing the top jobs.

This month we’ve been in hot pursuit of stylists whose careers regularly take them across Europe, to the States, the Far East and beyond, to bring you a real taste of life away from home, with our special Globetrotters issue. Whether you’re a session stylist wanting to broaden your horizons, a salon group looking to make your mark internationally or an educator eager to impart knowledge, this issue is packed full of inspiration, advice and ideas on how to turn a stint on foreign shores into a name-boosting no-brainer!

But just before you jet off, check out the finalists of this year’s Most Wanted and It List Awards, from page 48. A huge congratulations to all our finalists – bring on the Grand Final! Speaking of jetting off, I thought I’d try my hand at this working abroad business, so this will be my last issue as editor of Creative HEAD. I’ve had an amazing two years at the magazine and it’s been great working with so many creative people – if any of you are Stateside in September, look me up in New York City!

Lauren

LAUREN MARGRAVE lauren@headmag.co.uk Visit Creativeheadmag.com, follow @creativeheadmag on Twitter Find us on Facebook, search ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ Creative HEAD 12

ON MY RADAR TV THE FALL

Forget my film of the month, all I’ve been talking about is The Fall on BBC2. If you haven’t been watching it, download this thrilling crime drama starring Gillian Anderson on iPlayer now!

App TRIVAGO

Be business-minded when booking a holiday this summer by downloading the Trivago app, which compares room rates on the main hotel booking websites.

Book IS IT JUST ME?

Miranda Hart’s book will have you crying with laughter. Speaking frankly about the agonies of social embarrassment, Miranda offers guidance on how to navigate life’s rocky paths, a Miran-ual, if you will.

*Harvard Business Review 2011

79

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CONTENTS

July/August What’s INSIDE

REGULARS _ 17 THE SOURCE Salons must reward loyalty, Sam McKnight celebrates and Skyler McDonald reveals session secrets 55 _ SCENE L’Oréal Colour Trophy returns, Wella Professionals TrendVision heats up and Davines takes over Paris

128 _ SUBSCRIBE NOW... ...and you shall receive a free gift from Clynol, worth more than £33

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PUBLISHING 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND

Editor

LAUREN MARGRAVE Art director Alfol_Egg_stage4.indd 4

NICK JABBAL

16/9/10 12:37:12

Art

GRAEME WHITE Chief sub editor

ADAM WOOD Feature writer

BETH DAVIE Contributors

AMY WOOD YASMIN PLANCHON Online editor

RACHAEL BRIDGE Advertising manager

BEN BALDOCK Classified executive

FEATURES

DAVID HAMMOND

Hairdressing opens up a host of possibilities and travel opportunities, so kick-start your career today!

JOANNA ANDERSEN

70 _ THE WORLD SERVICE _

78 LUIGI MURENU

The name on everybody who is anybody’s speed dial, Luigi’s work has global glam power

Publisher

CATHERINE HANDCOCK Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

94 _ KING OF THE WORLD

WRITE TO US AT: CREATIVE HEAD, 21 THE TIMBERYARD, DRYSDALE STREET, LONDON, N1 6ND. T: 020 7324 7540 E: enquiries@headmag.co.uk

Expanding your brand to far-flung shores can be very rewarding, but there are pitfalls on the way

FASHION _ POP ART 120 Charles Worthington Salons mix neon pop with neutral colours to make a fluoro flow _ 124 CLASSIC YOUTH Taking the lead from Louis Vuitton, the Project X 2013 team adds some magic

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JULY/AUGUST 2013 £4.50

Charles Worthington

Editor in chief

AMANDA NOTTAGE

84 _ HEAD IN THE CLOUDS

Hooker & Young do what they do best – creating beautiful images, exclusively for Creative HEAD

p120

Special projects manager

TOP ON OF THE WORLD… S JOURNEY OF SUCCES CAPTURING A

ON THE COVER Hair TIGI International Creative Team Make-up Pat Mascolo Styling Jiv D Photography Anthony Mascolo, Roberto Aguilar and Ben Cook

Creative HEAD 14

Go online to www.creativeheadmag.com find ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ on Facebook or follow us on Twitter: @creativeheadmag, @HairNewsUpdate Download the Creative HEAD App here: Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher.

All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

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source

RUPERT TOWERS REVEALS HIS FAVOURITE PLACE TO UNWIND

THE

Page 36

NEWS, PRODUCTS, BUSINESS KNOW-HOW AND INTERIORS IT ALL STARTS HERE…

▼ ▼

July/August 2013

SALONS MUST REWARD CLIENT LOYALTY – NOT SLASH PRICES UK shoppers were actively using reward programmes and 78 per cent collected loyalty points whenever they could. Maria Sealey, director of research services at Aimia, said marketers, such as those in the hair and beauty industry, must focus on the basic loyalty drivers to retain and develop customer relationships.

Consumers now expect brands to work harder for their loyalty and custom and, according to Barry Quinn, loyalty manager at salon software specialists Phorest, salons looking to stay one step ahead need to recognise this. He said: “As shoppers get more savvy, they are beginning to realise that price is JAN

no substitute for value. What hair salons provide is not a commodity but a full-on luxury experience.” To build real relationships and loyalty with today’s savvy shoppers, Phorest recommends a loyalty scheme that treats clients to new services, rather than offering free treatments of something they regularly have.

He questioned: “Why give them something for free that they were going to buy for full price anyway?”

Karine Jackson, a salon owner in Covent Garden, introduced a ‘recommend a friend’ loyalty scheme following client demand. She said: “Our retention has increased by 35 per cent from this scheme.”

FEB MAR APR MAY

Creative HEAD 17

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OCT NOV DEC

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SALONS LOOKING TO BUILD LOYALTY and stronger relationships with clients should reward and recognise consumers rather than discounting their services, according to the latest findings from loyalty specialists Aimia. The management consultancy’s report, ‘The rise of the savvy shopper; the impact of the recession on customer loyalty’, looked at how consumers have changed their shopping behaviour and values in response to the recent economic downturn, revealing a new breed of consumer: the savvy shopper. The key findings of the research, which was carried out among 2,000 UK consumers, revealed 64 per cent of

▼ ▼

THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE INDUSTRY

exclusive

RUSSELL KANE TO BE MOST WANTED HOST THE FINALISTS FOR THE Most Wanted and It List Grand Final have been announced, the invites are in the post, and now Creative HEAD can exclusively reveal that your host for the night is comedian Russell Kane. Straight from co-presenting ITV2’s I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out of Here Now!, the award-winning stand-up is sure to keep the audience entertained throughout the evening. Joanna Andersen, special projects manager at Alfol Publishing, said: “Russell is the perfect Most Wanted and It List host. He’s an experienced comedian used to performing in front of a big audience and we know he will keep us all laughing well into the evening.” It’s been

The salons and hair brands popping up at music festivals near you this summer

TIME FOR T

ON A WIRE

GOING UP COUNTRY

FOR THE EIGHTH YEAR running, Rainbow Room International is styling the hair backstage at T in the Park. The team will be based in the VIP area, providing the stars and their entourages with hair expertise between 12 and 14 July.

TIGI SALONS, headed up by the TIGI International Creative Team, will be in the VIP areas backstage at Yahoo!

Wireless Festival between 12 and 14 July and V Festival on 17 and 18 August, styling musicians and VIPs.

TABITHA James Kraan Organic Hairdressing in Gloucestershire is heading to Cornbury Music Festival to look after the artists at the Oxfordshire festival, taking place on 5 to 7 July and headlined by Van Morrison.

Creative HEAD 18

Justin Timberlake image courtesy of Tom Munro, RCA Records

HEADLINE ACTS!

a busy couple of years for Russell, winning the Foster’s Edinburgh Comedy Award for his show Smokescreens and Castles, appearing on BBC One’s comedy show Live at the Apollo and travelling across the US filming a series of travelogues and celebrity interviews for Five USA. The Most Wanted and It List Grand Final takes place on 2 September at the Natural History Museum in London. Book your tickets now by calling 01434 610940 for a night of fun, fab food, fantastic cocktails and the allimportant awards. Tickets are priced at £210 each or £1,900 for a table of 10. Visit Creativeheadmag.com for more information. Turn to page 48 for a full list of Most Wanted and It List Awards nominees

NO FOILS NO BLEEDING NO LIMITS

FREE YOUR

MIND

IMAGINE A WORLD WITH NO COLOUR LIMITS, WHERE YOUR CREATIVITY CAN RUN FREE. COLOR.ID FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS WELCOMES YOU TO A BRIGHT NEW WORLD OF COLOUR

A colour service that doesn’t require foils or separators?

A service that allows you to place colour next to colour without bleeding* that can be completed in a standard appointment time? Is it possible? It is now.

Since aluminum foil started being used in the ‘70s and ‘80s, the search has been on to find something that didn’t create a visual barrier. Colourists need the application process to be more pleasurable and less time-consuming for the client. Now you can shake off the shackles of foils once and for all, with Color.id by Wella Professionals.

This breakthrough, salon-exclusive service is Wella Professionals’ most intuitive colouring approach yet.

Containing new InvisiDivider technology, Color.id creates a matrix within the colour mass, acting like a flexible barrier to separate and hold different hues – allowing you to place shades next to each other without bleeding* and without the need for foils or separators.

Colourists can create soft, blended results, always seeing what they’re creating throughout the process.

For fabulous results, use Color.id with Koleston Perfect or ILLUMINA COLOR with Welloxon Perfect. *Shades of up to three levels of depth apart. Not recommended for extreme tonal differences such as vibrant reds and blondes.

WORKING ON COLOR.ID WAS AMAZING, IT BROUGHT TOGETHER HAIRDRESSERS, ARTISTS, DESIGNERS, SCIENTISTS AND TRENDSETTERS. WHAT WE ACCOMPLISHED IS OUTSTANDING; REVOLUTIONISING THE WAY COLOUR IS APPLIED IN SALONS AND DEFINING THE HOTTEST LOOKS THAT ARE TAKING RUNWAYS AND HIGH STREETS BY STORM JOSH WOOD, GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR – COLOUR, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Hair by Wella Professionals UK & Ireland Colour Club

Promotion

Creative HEAD

Hair by Wella Professionals UK & Ireland Colour Club

Creative HEAD

Promotion

PUT COLOUR

BACK INTO YOUR

BUSINESS INTRODUCE COLOR.ID TO YOUR MENU AND WATCH YOUR BUSINESS GROW

Did you know that creative colour services, a key loyalty driver for salons, only represent 11 per cent of colour services?* It’s true – colourists had too little time to do such complicated, creative services, but not anymore. An incredible 98 per cent of clients would ask for Color.id again and 95 per cent of clients would recommend Color.id to their friends.** With the addition of just one new colour service you’ve strengthened client loyalty, boosted your salon’s image and attracted new clients.

But the benefits don’t stop there – with Color.id you can also increase staff performance, turnover and productivity in one fell swoop. This premium-priced creative service requires no extra time to achieve, leaving clients delighted with their new, bespoke colour and colourists satisfied that they’ve created something truly unique during a standard appointment time. *Based on Global Salon Services Study 2011/12 (Germany, UK, France, US, Russia, Brazil, Japan). **Based on a consumer survey carried out in salons in Germany and the US with 63 respondents in 2012

IDENTITY

PARADE MAKE YOUR CLIENTS STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD WITH COLOR.ID

MULBERRY MOODS The irresistible mulberry colour palette of model Ariana’s crop, with contrasting dark and smoky depths, perfectly defines the texture in her pixie cut.

THE COLOUR: Ariana’s cool features and dark natural depth were brought to life with blended deep berry tones, bringing out the layers of her cut and enhancing her skin tone.

THE CUT AND STYLE: The short cut was texturised to give the head-hugging shape a soft, natural movement. A round brush was used to add volume.

Hair by Wella Professionals UK & Ireland Colour Club

Color.id lets your creativity run free as it allows you to create bespoke soft-blended results without foils.

Something the Wella Professionals Global Creative Team and UK & Ireland Colour Club found out…

Creative HEAD

Promotion

PURE GLAMOUR The glamorous shape of model Eva’s style has a fluidity of movement that is enhanced with the play of light and shadow in the hues.

THE COLOUR: Hidden blends of natural shadows transform into pure light blonde to create beautifully blended effects.

THE CUT AND STYLE: Diagonal layers within a classic outline work in harmony with the movement to create this shape.

FLICKERING FLAME Model Hanna’s long, filtered hairshape with minimal layering at the front flows from natural roots into contrasting warm and light tones at the ends.

THE COLOUR: Deep natural tones are fused horizontally with warm and light flashes through the ends.

THE CUT AND STYLE: Long and sleek with minimal layers at the front.

COLOUR

WITH INTUITION Set colour free and be among the first colourists trained on Color.id now. Contact your Wella Professionals account manager or email wellaevents.im@pg.com with ‘Color.id’ in the subject line for details on your nearest training session

Miloi Sluis, Rankin and Sam McKnight

SAM MCKNIGHT CELEBRATES GHD APPOINTMENT WITH RANKIN SHOOT WORLD-RENOWNED session stylist Sam McKnight has teamed up with fashion photographer Rankin to create a campaign that marks his appointment as global creative director for ghd and the official launch of the ghd eclipse.

The Most Wanted SESSION STYLIST 2012, said: “It’s great to be working with ghd as the new global creative director. I don’t think there could have been a better way to begin our relationship than with the new campaign for ghd eclipse.� Sam was behind the hair looks of the campaign, using the ghd eclipse styler to show an evolution of texture through five images of Dutch-born model Miloi Sluis, along with a short fi lm. The key message of the campaign – greatness comes to those who create – was captured by Rankin in a pared-back style, allowing Sam’s hair looks to be the focus. The photographer said: “It was great to work with Sam on the new campaign. He’s the best at what he does and we were on the same page when it came to the result: showing the personality behind the hair he’d created.�

GUESTS ENJOY AN EVENING WITH GUIDO

SESSION STYLIST Guido was the centre of a career retrospective evening at London’s Saatchi Gallery. The event, hosted by Redken, began with a preview of images due to feature in his new book to be released next year, before showcasing headpieces he made for the ‘McQueen: Savage Beauty’ exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Guido (pictured left) was interviewed in front of the select audience by Vogue beauty director Nicola Moulton (pictured right), and revealed he would shortly be creating a hair as art exhibition at the Met.

100%

PROFIT RETURN ON RRP .

% * &# %*! # #&$ $ &% ( #

!# $ % $ # % ( % & "& $% "& %* # % $ $ ! # % # % # % $ #&$ $ # +% ' % %# % # # * &# ) &$ ' $ * #

%$ & AGENTS NOTE: * & ( & % # !# $ % &# & "& # ! $ % % # $ *

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THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE INDUSTRY

Skyler McDonald to reveal SESSION SECRETS MULTI AWARD-WINNING STYLIST Skyler McDonald is hosting a series of workshops as a guest artist for ghd. Taking place on 6 August at ghd’s London studio, 12 November at the ghd Leeds academy and 26 November at Medusa in Edinburgh, the workshops will see the seanhanna creative director give an insight into her hairdressing experience in advertising campaigns, fashion collections and television work.

The workshops will also cover tricky styling techniques that aspiring session stylists need to perfect.

CHARLIE MILLER WINS BIG AT SCOTTISH HAIR & BEAUTY AWARDS

NIOXIN STYLISTS from across the UK gathered in Manchester for the first ever Thinning Expert course.

The host, local radio presenter Jo Lloyd, kicked off the day with a personal insight into how Nioxin has helped give her thicker, fuller hair. Marilyn Sherlock, chairman of The Institute of Trichologists, then provided an overview of hair thinning, before Kay McIntyre, education ambassador for Nioxin, showcased cuts and colours specifically aimed at thinning hair. Finally, Dr Steve Shiel, scientific director of P&G Beauty, presented an insight into the ‘secret life of your hair’, giving participants a deeper understanding of the science behind Nioxin.

CHARLIE MILLER OBE (pictured inset) has scooped the Icon Award at the INAA Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards 2013. Other awards at the ceremony included Best Hair Salon, which went to James Hughes in Glasgow; Best Female Hair Stylist, which was awarded to Donna Richards from Partners Hair & Beauty in Broughty Ferry; and Best Male Hair Stylist, which was won

by James Roberts from James Roberts Hair Design & Beauty in Glasgow.

Held at Glasgow’s Hilton Hotel, the awards evening kicked off with a fashion show from four Scottish designers: Marc Ross, Obscure Couture, Gilda & Pearl and Rebeka Torres. Further winners included Jill Aitchison from Medusa, Edinburgh, who won Expert Hair Colourist and Boom Barbers in Edinburgh, who won Best Barber. The Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards is run by I Need An Appointment, a hair and beauty portal.

Kay McIntyre

MANCHESTER WELCOMES NIOXIN EXPERT COURSE

Creative HEAD 22

HAIR FEELS UP TO 90% SMOOTHER* AND MORE CONDITIONED NEW advanced

keratindose

Enriched with Pro-Keratin and Silk extract, New Biolage Advanced Keratindose is designed to leave damaged, chemically-treated hair feeling smoother, more conditioned and silky to the touch.

For more information, visit us at www.matrixhaircare.co.uk/biolage or call us on: 0800 387 608 / 1 800 509 472

*Smoothing test. Keratindose shampoo, conditioner and renewal spray vs. a classic shampoo

MATRIXHAIRCARE

MATRIXHAIRCARE

MATRIXHAIRCAREUK

▼ ▼

THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE INDUSTRY

Leigh Keates at The Coterie

My MONTH ahead

What does Jul/Aug have in store for…

Jamie Stevens

LEIGH KEATES SIGNS UP TO PREMIER It List ONE TO WATCH 2011 Leigh Keates has signed up to leading hair and make-up agency, Premier. He joins Most Wanted SESSION STYLIST 2012 Sam McKnight, who he has previously worked with backstage at shows including Chanel and Ralph Lauren. Further names on the agency roster include Eamonn Hughes and James Brown. Leigh has rapidly built up his editorial portfolio, collaborating with magazines including Stylist, Tatler, Idol and Wonderland. He was also recently revealed as the new global creative director for Cloud Nine.

SALLY BEAUTY LENDS A HAND TO LITTLE PRINCESSES SALLY BEAUTY HOLDINGS has held a fundraiser for The Little Princess Trust, which provides wigs for children who suffer hair loss due to cancer treatment. The parent company of Salon Services hosted an ‘I’m A Director Get Me Out Of Here’ show, where staff were treated to a ‘detox’ smoothie of fish, garlic and chilli.

If you only do ONE THING this summer...

Skip along to the Goldwell Color Zoom UK Winners Party.

Taking place on 5 August in central London, no summer is complete until you’ve sipped on a couple of cocktails or three and found out the three UK winners going on to compete for the chance to be a global winner in Los Angeles, California on 8 October. The 15 finalists will all be in attendance, and the night is a celebration of hairdressing and musical talent. For more information, contact your Goldwell sales consultant or visit Creativeheadmag.com

Creative HEAD 24

JAMIE STEVENS HAIR This year has been a whirlwind of activity and the next two months are no different! I’m travelling and presenting in Rome and Sicily for Matrix, then it’s off to New York.

My team and I are booked to work with celebrities including Olly Murs, Union J and Ella Henderson, which is exciting but hard work! I’ll be shooting my new collection imagery and gearing up for awards season, kicking off with Most Wanted. Then there’s also the small matter of marrying my fiancée Megan!

Robert Eaton

RUSSELL EATON This year we’re celebrating our 35th anniversary and we have planned several client events as well as a surprise team event. I also look after the cast of the soap Emmerdale and will be visiting the studio a few times, looking after the hair of cast members too busy to visit the salon. I’m involved in the judging and mentoring of the Generation NOW team and will be working on a shoot with them.

Anthony Barnes-Smith

Q HAIR & BEAUTY We begin with a team trip to the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s member night, at Wella World Studio in London. Also, Q Hair and Beauty launches an association with Raymond Blanc’s Brasserie Blanc in Chichester with a view to hosting 12 months of joint events.

Then, the management team at the salon will travel to enjoy one of our annual highlights, Paul Mitchell The Gathering in Las Vegas. We always bring lots of ideas, enthusiasm and motivation back for the team.

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NEW PRODUCTS, TOOLS AND COLOURS

want it!

*Shades of up to three levels of depth apart. Not recommended for extreme tonal differences such as vibrant reds and blondes.

SET YOUR MIND FREE

Now, this will blow your mind!

Imagine colour with no foils – that’s the new reality with the revolutionary salon-exclusive Color.id by Wella Professionals.

It allows you to place colour next to colour without bleeding* and can be completed in a standard appointment time, making it more pleasurable and less time-consuming for the client and more fun and creative for you!

Containing new InvisiDivider technology, Color.id creates a matrix within the colour mass, acting like a flexible barrier to separate and hold different hues – allowing you to create colour like never before. It’s playtime!

IN-SALON SERVICE CALL 01923 595700

www.wella.com

SMOOTH AS SILK

SHINE LIKE DIAMONDS

Perfect for damaged hair caused by harsh chemical treatments, the advanced Keratindose collection from Matrix Biolage promises to leave locks feeling 90 per cent smoother and more conditioned. With Pro-Keratin and botanical silk extract, the formula protects and repairs sensitive hair from further breakage while acting like a sponge to prevent clients’ hair dehydrating. The advanced Shampoo, Conditioner and Renewal Spray contain no parabens or sulphate, delivering a sleek, manageable finish.

www.redken.co.uk

RRP FROM £9.50 CALL 0800 387 608

www.matrixhair.co.uk

Redken’s Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine is the latest oil innovation for both strength and mirror-like shine. Clients can choose between the amber bottle for those with fine hair or the black bottle for thick and coarse hair. This silicone-free oil can be used as an overnight dream, a pre-shampoo, blow-dry treatment or even as a finishing product for maximum shine.

RRP £31.99 CALL 0800 085 4965

JEWEL PURPOSE

So sparkly! The limited edition ghd jewel collection styler sets and ghd air hairdryers have arrived, and clients will be spoilt for choice – will they choose an amethyst, sapphire or emerald styler? They’ll receive a matching ghd paddle brush with the stylers, too.

RRP STYLER £135, AIR £99 CALL 0845 330 1133

www.ghdhair.com

Creative HEAD 26 14

NEWS JUL/AUG

BUY ONLINE DAZZLING DEALS THIS MONTH AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SHOP

BEE SEEN

Oh Bee Hive! From Bed Head by TIGI allows you to create gorgeous hair in an instant.

Whether your clients fancy a beehive or the up-all-night-and-now-offto-work ‘undone’ look, this dry shampoo can do it all. It absorbs excess oils with just a spritz of the super-fine powder, releasing massive body and creating sky-high volume. It also protects and strengthens thanks to a UV absorber and hydrolysed keratin.

RRP £12.95 CALL 0844 844 0944

www.bedhead.com

DAYDREAM BELIEVER For clients who lead a hectic lifestyle, Philip Kingsley’s One More Day dry shampoo is ideal. The lightweight spray soothes the scalp and instantly refreshes while eradicating excess dirt and leaving hair shiny and healthy. Perfect for volume and texture, the uplifting scent is a crowd pleaser!

Back for another festival season, Featherlocks is available as individual pieces or in bundles, with lots of colours to choose from.

HOT! £62.50

*Terms and conditions apply

WINGS OF DESIRE SHADOWLANDS For bold colour effects for a day or night out, try Colorsmash Hair Shadow in 13 vibrant colours.

BUY! £6.00

BURNING UP

Buy any six NXT tubes – permanent/ semi-permanent/meche – and you’ll get a free WoodWick candle.

GET IT! £4.27

CAST IONS

Tourmaline technology and an ions generator deliver ultrasmooth, sleek finishes with the Swiss-designed Valera dryer.

LOVE IT! FROM £41.95

TAKE OFF THE MASK Unveil beautiful hair with Unite U Luxury Intense Mask. Designed to moisturise hair inside and out, this mask is a powerful antioxidant that repairs, protects and strengthens tresses. The powerful treatment also features a nourishing blend of crushed pearl, Hawaiian white honey and argan oil – perfect for clients’ hair in need of a little extra TLC this summer!

RRP £45 CALL 0845 034 0770

FEELING FLAT?

Fine, lifeless hair can weigh clients down, but now you can breathe new life into their hair and give it the boost it needs with Clynol Pure Volume. This three-step regime features a completely silicon-free formula and promises to remove impurities and pollution that can make hair limp and lacklustre.

RRP FROM £9.35 CALL 01296 314000

www.unitehair.co.uk

www.clynol.com

FLAKE IT Give clients’ confidence a little extra boost with Caviar Clinical Dandruff Control Shampoo and Conditioner

by Alterna Haircare. Embarrassing flakes are nobody’s friend, so give them the heave-ho, now!

RRP FROM £5.95 CALL 020 7580 0444

RRP FROM £33.50 CALL 01925 578000

www.philipkingsley.co.uk

www.alternahaircare.com

SCISSOR HANDS

Stand out with the Jaguar IV body collection that offers a range of patterned scissors for an individual style of cutting. With protection for those with a nickel allergy, the blades include an offset designed handle that creates a relaxed working experience, while the honing of both edges offers outstanding cutting action.

RRP £99 CALL 01207 591 099

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www.jaguar-scissors.co.uk

greatness comes to those who create Contact your ghd account manager to experience the ghd eclipse速 professional styler.

For more information call 0845 3301133 or visit ghdhair.com/stare

Hair by Karine Jackson

Show off!

Your latest collections, addictive videos and all your accomplishments in one place for all the world to see – have you signed up to ghd Showcase yet?

Visit Creativeheadmag.com/ghdshowcase

Creative HEAD

Promotion

FORGET ALL THAT CHILDHOOD advice about never showing off – here at Creative HEAD we positively encourage it! That’s why we love ghd Showcase; it’s the ideal way to illustrate the breadth of your talent and accomplishments to the industry… while also helping you pick up a few new clients, too!

All you need to do is create a profile – and it’s simple!

You don’t even need to be a ghd stockist to gain access to the perfect professional location to showcase your work. And once you’ve started, you just don’t stop – you can upload multiple images and videos, include a link to your website, as well as your credentials such as award wins and all that experience you’ve gained. You can even boost your profile on the move, as it’s easy to upload from an iPhone or iPad. But it’s no good showing off your talent if no-one is visiting your profile – so get shouting! Once you’ve

uploaded new images or a video, you can share it with the world via Facebook and Twitter. And how about sharing your portfolio with your clients, to give them some style ideas and inspire them to try new looks?

Don’t just take our word for it though! Colour goddess Karine Jackson, owner of the chic Covent Garden salon Karine Jackson London, has a profile to die for, chock full of stunning collections. “I joined ghd Showcase as it’s an innovative way to share my work and interact with others in the industry, almost like Facebook for hairdressing,” explains Karine. “It’s really easy to navigate and what I love is the fact that newer, up-and-coming stylists have a chance for their work to be recognised. It can be hard to find a voice so anything that helps great work be seen and appreciated gets the thumbs up from me!” So, what are you waiting for? Here’s what you need to do…

Three steps to ghd Showcase

1

SIGN UP TO SHOWCASE

2

Creativeheadmag.com/ ghdshowcase is the place to register your details.

It only takes a minute, we promise!

YOU’VE GOT MAIL! Check your inbox for a verification email.

You are now ready to create your very own ghd Showcase profile!

3

BUILD & GROW Fill your profile and watch it grow.

You can update your profile on the move too, with the optimised ghdhair.com/showcase on iPhones and iPads.

NEWS JUL/AUG

BUSINESS BAROMETER

Your exclusive snapshot into UK salon performance, in association with PREMIER SOFTWARE

BY THE

BOOK

MANAGING THEM IN A PAPER SCHEDULE BOOK IS TEDIOUS AND TIME-CONSUMING, RIGHT?

ERR,

NOT SO FAST.

56% use their computer system to control their stock, while 44% do this manually

OLD

HABITS DIE HARD, AS OUR SURVEY SHOWS…

92% use a computerised system in their salon, but only 60% use the system to manage their bookings; the remaining 40% prefer to use a traditional appointment book

36% place orders manually, while 32% use their computer and 31% use their EPOS system

MAY 2013 – HOW WAS IT FOR YOU?

KEY GROWTH AREAS IN MAY 2013

THE SUN FINALLY STARTED SHINING AND CLIENTS CAME OUT IN THEIR DROVES. MAY WAS A BUMPER MONTH IN SALONS, WITH THREE-QUARTERS REPORTING IMPROVED BUSINESS ON THE PREVIOUS MONTH 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0

47%

40%

COLOUR

RETAIL

42%

38%

BACKWASH TREATMENT

TOP TIP

FOR A LONG TIME now I’ve maintained that probably the most important team members of any salon are the front desk staff. They are often the first contact that a client has with a salon, and it is this first interaction with your business that will determine how that client perceives the entire company.

Clients expect reception staff to be experts in every aspect of the salon, as they are the face of the business.

They should not only have brilliant communication skills, but also the right tools to allow them to wow clients time after time. The use of any salon software system is often entrusted to receptionbased staff, so it’s vitally important they are not only fully trained in all aspects of the system, but also have the power to access the information stored within it.

Good salon software should prompt users on things as notes from the last appointment, as well as notify the business of any specific points, such as a favourite magazine or whether they prefer tea or coffee. At check-out, the receptionist should be able to complete a bill easily and add additional services or sales directly to the record card. The software should also prompt them to book the next appointment. All of these subtle points should be used to give the client the best experience the salon can offer – from a single point of contact.

Robert Miles, founder of Premier Software

OTHER CHEMICAL SERVICES

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Methodolog y: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

GOING

THIS DIGITAL AGE, MAKING APPOINTMENTS OVER THE PHONE AND MANUALLY

OCT NOV DEC

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IN

WHAT’S IN YOUR BAG?

The first daily luxury hair product providing weightless protection with an alluring fragrance.

HERRA PROTECT Hair Perfume www.herra.com

HERE ARE OUR TOP THREE BUSINESS-BOOSTING TIPS FOR THE SUMMER AHEAD LEARN

‘I’m Not a Sales Person, I am a Hairdresser’, is an innovative training course run by Christian Hefti (pictured, inset left) as part of the Matrix 2013 education programme.

Christian, owner of BHP Hairdressing in Leeds, has implemented many simple measures with his salon team to build confidence in consultation, which results in sales. So if you want to release your salon’s untapped sales potential, register for this one-day course and let 2013 be your year of growth!

To book, call 020 8762 4561 or visit Matrixhaircare.co.uk.

DOWNLOAD

If you want to feel more motivated and inspired to achieve your goals, download Mentor, a motivational app that connects you with other people looking to maximise their productivity. Sounds more appealing than a boring to-do list that you’re never fully on board with, doesn’t it? What’s more, the app allows you to set reminders and it keeps track of your achievements so you can visualise your progress.

Visit your app store now.

ATTEND

Don’t miss out on your chance to be part of the 2013 Most Wanted and It List Grand Final, taking place at the Natural History Museum in South Kensington, London on Monday 2 September.

With its cathedral-like structure, frescoes and sculptures – not forgetting a 26-metre dinosaur – the museum promises to be a fantastic backdrop for getting up close and personal with the hairdressing stars of today. Book tickets now by calling 01434 610940. Tickets cost £210 each or £1,900 for a table of 10.

THINK IN NUMBERS

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The power of three

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BUSINESS NEWS, VIEWS AND ADVICE

STAND UP AND

BE COUNTED Re-evaluate your pricing structure and get the best out of your team, says business expert Ken West

LAST MONTH I asked you to evaluate your pay structure and consider implementing a system that is easy to understand and directly linked to performance, to afford staff the option to achieve promotion.

The criteria for promotion, however, should be based on fact and not emotion; promoting someone should be a commercial decision. Skills, client demand and productivity are perfect areas for this, how long someone has been working for you or whether you like them are not.

Now that your team knows how to achieve promotion, I want to address the need for an effective pricing structure that encourages growth.

More often than not, pricing structures make it harder for less-experienced team members to grow, while failing to stretch those at the top.

Let me explain. Let’s assume that a salon has a pricing structure with £5 between each stylist level. When a senior stylist is promoted from a £50 haircut to a £55 haircut they have to justify a 10 per cent price increase to their clients

JUNIOR STYLIST CHARGING

Creative HEAD 34 14

£20

and, if you are operating a pay structure as previously discussed, they have the potential to earn 10 per cent more from each client.

Now let’s look at a new stylist who is struggling to grow a column and you raise their price from £20 to £25. This means they have to justify a 25 per cent increase to their clients and have the potential to earn 25 per cent more from each client.

Who is more likely to lose some of their clients? You are probably hitting your youngest, most inexperienced team members with the biggest percentage price increase of their lives. A price increase that they do not yet have the confidence to justify to what are your most priceconscious clients. How many of your top stylists would be happy to increase their price by 25 per cent?

Now ask yourself this question: is your price structure helping people to grow? Is it stretching your senior team or allowing them to become complacent?

Ken West is director of business coaching EXPERTS s s

+

PROMOTION THAT RAISES PRICE TO £25

ANXIOUS STYLIST TRYING TO JUSTIFY 25% MORE

NEWS JUL/AUG In association with

NHF ASKS MEMBERS FOR SUPPORT PRIORITIES

THE NHF has launched a consultation exercise to gauge the profile and priorities of its membership – a move designed to help set the agenda for its campaigning activities and how it targets and delivers benefits and support to salon owners. The ‘getting to know you’ initiative is asking all 6,000 NHF members to complete a 10-minute survey outlining who they are, what sort of salon they run, what they value about Federation membership, what they would like to see the Federation offering or doing more of and what they see as their key challenges and priorities. The move is one of the first big pieces of activity carried out by new chief executive/ secretary general Hilary Hall since arriving at the Federation in April. Hilary revealed that one of her priorities was membership – retaining, recruiting and re-invigorating members – and, in a tough economic climate, it was vital the Federation offered both value for money and compelling, positive member benefits. “The Federation’s biggest strength, and asset, is its membership. We already know members value a lot of what we provide but if we are to continue to offer the best value for our membership, and continue to attract salon owners to join our ranks, I need to know what it is people want from the Federation,” she said. The paper-based and online survey was sent out in June and is running until the second week of July.

PRESIDENT IS ‘MASTER CRAFTSMAN’

NHF PRESIDENT Mark Coray has been crowned ‘master craftsman of hairdressing’ by the Hairdressing Council. Mark, owner of Coray & Co in Cardiff, said the award was the “icing on the cake” in what is his final year as president before handing over to the current vice-president, Paul Curry. He said: “This year, not only do I complete my fantastic term as the youngest ever national president of the National Hairdressers’ Federation, but I’ll also be celebrating 20 years of Coray & Co. I’m hugely proud and honoured, both for individual hairdressers and for the industry as a whole.”

The presidential transition will take place at the Federation’s conference and annual general meeting, which is being held on Sunday 6 October at the Palace Hotel in Manchester.

BRITAIN’S BEST OPENS FOR NOMINATIONS The National Hairdressers’ Federation Britain’s Best competition is now open for entries and nominations. This year’s Britain’s Best will take place at the Metropole Hotel in Birmingham on November 17 and is being sponsored by L’Oréal Professionnel. This year’s event will, once again, include a ‘Text Vote’ Popularity Poll and the popular ‘Click ‘n’ Send’ Head of the Year Photographic Competition, as well as a standard floor competition.

Mark Coray, president of the NHF, said: “I’m really excited about this year’s Britain’s Best. Last year’s event exceeded our expectations with 250 entrants, and was a huge success. Naturally I am confident this year’s Britain’s Best will be better still! I urge hairdressers and salon

owners to get involved, get voting, get nominating, enter their work and spread the word. Britain’s Best is a great opportunity to showcase the talent, passion and creativity of the hairdressing industry.” The winners of the NHF’s Photographic Stylist of the Year Competition will also be announced at Britain’s Best, after judging took place last month. The judges for that competition included Desmond Murray, Jamie Stevens and Catherine Handcock, publisher of Creative HEAD. Jamie, resident hairdresser on the X Factor, will be following in the footsteps of Lee Stafford by holding a Q&A session at Britain’s Best and discussing his work and influences. Full details of this year’s competition can be found online at www.britainsbest.me.

A QUARTER OF OWNERS EXPERIENCE THEFT BY STAFF MORE THAN A QUARTER of salon owners have had money or products stolen from their salon by a member of staff who has got into financial difficulty, an exclusive NHF survey has revealed. The poll of more than 100 NHF members wanted to gauge the extent to which so-called ‘payday’ lenders are targeting the industry, given its reputation for relatively low wages and a young, often financially inexperienced workforce. Last year the charity StepChange warned that hairdressing was potentially one of the most vulnerable to such lenders, which charge high rates of interest on short-term loans. For the hairdressing industry, the good

news from the NHF poll was that more than nine out of 10 of the salon owners polled said they were “unaware” of staff using payday lenders. Just six per cent, too, had experienced staff getting into serious financial difficulty because of payday loans. But the temptation of salon stock and cash to those who did fall into a spiral of debt and were unable to cope was a genuine fear for many salon owners. More than a third – 36 per cent – worried that, in principle, staff who get into difficulty might be tempted to steal from their salon, with more than a quarter – 27 per cent – admitting this scenario had actually happened to them.

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To find out more about the work the NHF does and for information on how to join, visit www.nhf.info or call 0845 345 6500 or 01234 831965

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BUSINESS NEWS, VIEWS AND ADVICE

TASKFORCE

BUSINESS PRO Rupert Towers Forresters, Wallingford What is the biggest risk you have taken?

Taking on my first Forresters franchise in November 1999 as a 26-year-old was scary, but now I’ve got two salons.

What is the biggest challenge in business today?

Controlling your costs and maintaining good cashflow management.

What will you never take for granted?

I will never take the busy times for granted as I am always looking to move things forward.

How do you de-stress after work?

I like to go to the pub with my friends and unwind over a couple of drinks.

When did you realise you’d made it?

Have I? I don’t believe I’m there yet.

What’s the most important lesson you have learnt so far?

It’s that we sell time, not haircuts.

What are your favourite pieces of advice?

‘Always take the negative and change it into a positive’, and ‘work hard and anything is achievable in life’.

IT’S A small

WORLD

From tapping into social media to ensuring your website speaks to an international audience, nowadays you need to have global appeal.

Read on to find out how you can harness digital power TO SOME, the digital world can seem too confusing, too scary and just too technical, but if you can learn how to control it, it’s full of promise and limitless possibilities.

To keep pace you have to know your markets; every interaction counts and every individual matters. “Cultures, trends and customers’ likes and dislikes vary from country to country, so do your research first to check whether there are any specific needs that should be taken into account,” says Sharleen Hunter, founder of PR consultancy Unleashed Potential.

The easiest place to start building your global appeal is with your website. “When you are thinking globally, you have to imagine visitors connecting to your website from different places around the world at the same time,” says Jay Hunter, IT and web development manager at Unleashed Potential. “It is important to check with your website’s hosting provider to ensure that your account has the necessary bandwidth capacity to handle a potential increase in traffic. The last thing you want is to launch a global campaign to attract visitors to your website and then it crashes.” To make your international visitors feel valued on a centralised website, it’s well worth including country-specific content, which could be easily done on a news page.

Creative HEAD 36 14

Hair brand Structure uses its blog to post world events, while maintaining the UK as its hub. “We continue the London-vibe of the brand on our blog and Facebook page, as this is what we want to remain associated with, but we include topics that are relevant to a variety of cultures,” says Jüri Coenraad, PR and communications specialist for Structure’s parent company, Joico Europe. By embracing the digital world, you open yourself, your brand and your salon to opportunity. Tommy’s Hairdressing, Most Wanted BUSINESS THINKER 2012, uses Skype to connect to clients unable to come into the salon to have consultations, in one instance helping a bride on her wedding day abroad. “The bride did her trials in our salon and she then used Skype to call Tommy [the salon’s co-founder] who walked the stylist at hand through the look she wanted to achieve,” says Esther van der Veken, Tommy’s cofounder. Schwarzkopf Professional live streams its Essential Looks World Tour, which last time reached more than 100,000 people from more than 40 countries – proof that clients utilise and appreciate a welldeveloped digital offering.

Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

Do the maths!

Summer is all about alfresco fun! Here, we reveal how your clients can create four stunning hair looks quickly and effortlessly, with BALMAIN HAIR. It’s as easy as 1, 2, 3

A DAY AT THE RACES

WIMBLEDON

A classic day out deserves classically coiffed hair. Give your client’s up-do some serious style with Balmain Hair’s Elegance range.

Whether your clients are drinking Pimms and eating strawberries and cream courtside or sat on Murray Mount, groomed, perfectly smooth hair is a must.

Balmain Hair Bordeaux-Cannes

+ Easy clip-in system = Beautiful up-do in an instant

Balmain Hair Hair Dress

MUSIC FESTIVAL

A SUMMER SOIREE

A festival is the perfect excuse for a client to try a new look and a clip-in fringe can dramatically change a face, but without the commitment. It’s also a brilliant way of keeping hair looking fresh.

Keep clients looking cool and fresh from sunrise to sunset with a perky ponytail that’s perfectly polite but full of personality.

Balmain Hair Elegance Toulouse-Monaco

+ Easy strand application; no glue, rings, tapes or clips = Longer hair in less than five minutes

+ Tails fixed using the C-Clip system = A voluminous ponytail

Balmain Hair Clip-In Fringe

+ Easy click-in application = Instant new look

GET YOUR CLIENTS’ SUMMER HAIR SORTED WITH BALMAIN HAIR, CALL 0800 781 0936 OR VISIT WWW.BALMAINHAIR.COM

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BUSINESS NEWS, VIEWS AND ADVICE

Aveda Congress 2011

AVEDA CONGRESS Held in Minneapolis, Minnesota, Aveda Congress is a biennial educational event that gathers together the brand’s hair and beauty industry professionals in celebration of the craft of hairdressing. The Congress festival honours top talent, inspires and educates with technical and creative presentations, and aims to foster a deep sense of connection to Aveda’s heritage. Aveda Congress is on from 19 to 21 October.

To book tickets, visit Avedacongress13.com

GOLDWELL COLOR ZOOM ʻ13 More than 3,000 colour-hungry stylists from across the globe will be jetting into Los Angeles, California, to witness the finale of the 2013 Color Zoom Challenge.

The event, from the 5 to 8 October, will see the International Finale on the first day, followed by the Color Zoom ’13 awards dinner and after party. On the second day, the Color Zoom ’14 fashion show and launch will take place, and on the final day there will be a Look and Learn Seminar for Color Zoom ’14.

To book tickets, visit Colorzoom13.com ANGELO SEMINARA DAVINES TOUR Davines’ artistic director, Angelo Seminara will be travelling across the Atlantic this autumn to share his advice and experience at an event in Minneapolis, Minnesota on 13 October. Presenting a stunning runway show, the legendary stylist will be flying the flag for the UK by showcasing his amazing artistry and creative vision live on stage.

For more information, visit Davines.com

Paul Mitchell The Gathering 2012

PAUL MITCHELL GATHERING This summer Las Vegas, Nevada, will play host to the Paul Mitchell Gathering, which is themed I’MPOSSIBLE – the reason? Because the brand believes that with its help, anything is possible. Joined

by Paul Mitchell’s family of artists and industry leaders, the two-day event on 12 and 13 August gives stylists the opportunity to see new ideas, techniques and products. From inspirational presentations to hands-on workshops featuring all aspects of design, artistry and business building, stylists can customise their trip.

For more information and to buy tickets, visit Paulmitchellpro.com

Color Zoom ’12 winners

The

EDIT

Hairdressing’s power players are going Stateside this year, so grab your passport!

CHECK OUT THE EDIT FOR OUR PICK OF THE MONTH’S HOTTEST ALL-AMERICAN TREND! Creative HEAD 38

Going for

gold

The photographic entries have been judged, the Regional Heat finalists have been chosen. Now you can see them battle it out at the WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD 2013 UK AND IRELAND FINAL

● Kieran Tudor and Luke Benson of D&J Ambrose.

THE STORY SO FAR: there were more than 800 ● Kai Wan of P.Kai Hair. photographic entries for the two categories: the Young ● Joel Goncalves of John Frieda Salons.

Talent category and the Color category. ● Maria Galati of Toni&Guy. Of these, 144 went through to the Regional Heats These artists all created their editorial and commercial to compete for one of 36 coveted places at the UK and collections using Wella Professionals’ new Color.id Ireland Final, and their chance to represent their country service. The culmination of the Regional Heats saw the on a global stage at the International Final. competitors take to The quality of this the stage and wow the year’s entrants was simply judges, before the finalists outstanding; proof of were revealed. the talent, creativity and Now, 36 finalists passion out there in the have the opportunity hairdressing industry. to experience the thrill The Regional Heats of live competition saw entrants compete for themselves as they in four evening shows, compete to win a which kicked off mentoring programme with a competitors from an industry icon parade accompanied and represent the UK by the BassToneSlap and Ireland in the drum troupe.

GARY GILL, EMOTIVE HAIR International Final – The guest artists who and you could be there! Tickets are now on sale for the showcased incredible hair included: Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2013 UK and ● Edward Darley and Bruce Masefield presenting Ireland Final.

Sassoon Academy’s Muse collection.

“The TrendVision Award recognises not only tomorrow’s rising stars but talented colourists who push the boundaries. The UK final is going to be tough as all the finalists will up their game”

FOR THE LATEST TRENDVISION AWARD NEWS AND PICTURES, FOLLOW WELLA PROFESSIONALS ON TWITTER @WELLAPRO #TVAUK, BECOME A FAN OF ‘WELLA UK’ ON FACEBOOK OR VISIT WELLATRENDVISION.COM

Creative HEAD 40

Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

THE MUST-ATTEND TRENDVISION AWARD UK & IRELAND FINAL! Held at the legendary Roundhouse venue, it is one of the biggest and most inspirational events in the hairdressing industry and this year will feature: A spectacular show from the Sebastian Professional UK Creative Style Artists.

An exclusive reveal of the Wella Professionals 2014 TrendVision collection.

Fantastic entertainment and after-show party.

Competitor catwalk and the all-important awards ceremony.

Back by popular demand, your host for the evening is renowned radio and TV presenter, Jo Whiley!

More shows and industry icons to be announced soon.

So make sure you don’t miss out on what is set to be an unforgettable evening!

DATE MONDAY 7 OCTOBER VENUE THE ROUNDHOUSE IN CAMDEN, LONDON TICKETS £195

t– Don’t miss ousa le tickets are on your to k ea Sp ! w no nals Wella Professio or er ag an m t accoun 8128 call 0845 601 to book

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STYLISH SALONS AND FURNITURE

WELCOME Your salon interior is a powerful asset and makes a lasting impression on clients.

Take inspiration from our pick of WOW-FACTOR SALONS from around the globe, and turn your domain into a welcoming retreat

Pier Guiseppe Moroni MILAN, ITALY Set in more than 3,000 sq ft of space, this salon is housed in the fashion district of central Milan and its interior reflects salon owner Guiseppe’s passion for using music, painting and figurative art to develop new creative expressions.

Aveda Vandam lifestyle salon NEW YORK, USA Showcasing the company’s commitment to environmental sustainability, the salon space is luminous and white, with floating illuminated mirrors and modern credenzas made of recycled steel and bamboo.

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NEWS JUL/AUG

Christiaan Georgio GRAND HYATT MUMBAI, INDIA Three years old, this ultra-chic salon oozes luxury and exemplifies the ambience of a plush lounge yet matches the contemporary style of the hotel in which it’s housed.

Inch Salon OSLO, NORWAY Clients can take a break from everyday life in this cosy salon, relaxing with a cup of organic tea while listening to tranquil music and enjoying the warmth of an open fire. Inch is relaxation for the mind, body and soul.

JAN

FEB MAR APR MAY

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JUN

JUL

AUG

SEP

OCT NOV DEC

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STYLISH SALONS AND FURNITURE

DesignHouse VICTORIA, CANADA Located in Victoria, a hotbed of arts, community focus and fashion, the salon has incorporated local art into its design. Powered by 100 per cent renewable energy, the owner also had the city install bike racks to discourage driving.

Vogue Vision SOFIA, BULGARIA Salon owner Mitko Damov brings subtlety to everything he touches, and this stunning, minimalist salon is no exception – it’s regarded as one of the best beauty salons in Bulgaria.

baSH DAY 7th Floor MUNICH, GERMANY Measures have been taken to create the most private of spaces in this converted loft salon. Complete with roof terrace lounge space, bar and wellness area, it’s a highlight for Munich’s in-crowd.

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™

Tri-Bristle ™configuration

REVOLUTIONARY DESIGN FOR STRESS FREE HAIR Don’t brush glide .... a British designed hairbrush with in-built AirShock ™ absorption technology: a hairbrushing experience for left & right handed stylists.

GLOBAL LAUNCH AUTUMN 2013 For more information on AirMotion please call:

0845 521 4047 www.airmotionpro.com

Jewels in the crown Whether your client wants to rock a more natural street-style look or follow in the footsteps of catwalk couture, a great blow-dry is a must. Take your clients to style heaven with the ghd jewel collection

ON THE RUNWAY

PPQ

This ponytail is all about achieving retro volume.

For the PPQ S/S13 show at London Fashion Week, ghd creative director Kenna gave this ’60s style a modern twist by adding lots of exaggerated volume and a little teasing at the roots to perfectly blown out hair.

A gorgeous style for any summer party, make sure your client is proud to shake their high ponytail by prepping hair with ghd style root lift spray, injecting volume into the roots with a blast from the ghd air hairdryer, before running the ghd V gold classic styler down the side sections to create shine.

On creating the look, Kenna says: “I took the smoothed-out texture and bent the ends under, but I made sure that the sides were pulled back tightly. This elongates the face and lifts the cheekbones.”

Creative HEAD 46

Creative HEAD

*Promotion runs until 31 August and includes most ghd stylers and hairdryers but excludes ghd IV styler and ghd eclipse.

Zoë Irwin

Promotion

ON THE STREET

THE TOOLS BEHIND THE LOOKS

“This season’s look is all about creating an ‘antisalon’ blow-dry,” says Zoë Irwin, ghd creative director. “It’s very natural with a schoolgirl innocence – almost made to look as if the client has done it themselves.”

Perfect for festivals, this blow-dry will keep clients looking good come rain or (hopefully) shine.

When it comes to recreating the look in salon, remember to prep, prep, prep advises Zoë. “The ghd style heat protect spray should be your hero product – it doesn’t have any hold, but creates a satin ‘school girl’ sheen,” she adds.

Following this, put your ghd dressing kit to good use and create the softest-looking blow-dry with the ghd oval dressing brush, before using the ghd narrow dressing brush to tame. Finish the look by pinning back two narrow sections to the left and right of the parting, and fix at the back of the head with a criss-cross of matte hairgrips. You should also recommend clients keep a ghd oval dressing brush in their bag to use regularly to keep their blow-dry fresh.

You’ve seen the trends, now make sure you and your clients have the right tools to achieve these two styles, with the ghd jewel collection.

Inspired by the opulent tones and fabric finishes seen on the S/S13 catwalks, these gorgeous, limited edition styler sets (pictured, above) and ghd air hairdryers (pictured, opposite page) are salon essentials this summer. The super-powerful ghd air, featuring a high-shine metallic trim in amethyst, sapphire or emerald, is perfect for recreating the wild and natural look. Using advanced ionic technology, the ghd air helps to lock in moisture for softer, shinier results that last longer with less frizz.

Clients who want the smooth PPQ ponytail, need look no further than the ghd V gold classic styler. Featuring shimmering black plates that glide effortlessly through the hair, the styler makes straightening on all hair types and lengths quick and easy, all with a high-shine salon finish. What’s more, each styler in the ghd jewel collection has a rich metallic finish, which is available in three tones and comes complete with a matching ghd paddle brush.

SALONS CAN NOW TAKE PART IN THE GHD SUMMER EXCHANGE AND ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO UPGRADE TO A NEW GHD STYLER OR HAIRDRYER. ALL CLIENTS NEED TO DO IS TRADE IN THEIR OLD ELECTRICAL HAIR APPLIANCE TO RECEIVE £20 OFF A NEW GHD PURCHASE.* FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE OFFER OR THE GHD JEWEL COLLECTION, CONTACT YOUR GHD ACCOUNT MANAGER OR CALL 0845 330 1133

WIN ! ve HEAD eati nce to he Cr a Visit t for you ch the ghd p m p o A gem fr ion win a wel collect je

MOST FABULOUS

GRAND FINAL mber

te Monday 2 Sep

W! B O O4K34N6O 10940 C a ll 0 1

GREAT BRITISH HAIR TALENT, THE JUDGES HAVE SPOKEN. CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2013 MOST WANTED FINALISTS

THEY MADE THE SHORTLIST! HAIR TREND

COLOUR EXPERT

BEST SALON TEAM

Category sponsor

Category sponsor

Category sponsor

Akin Konizi, HOB Salons, London Petros Mairoudhiou, Trevor Sorbie, London Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons, Oxford Silje Vincent, Toni&Guy, Sloane Square, London Karly Whittaker, The Salon, Taunton

Jayson Gray, Toni&Guy, Sloane Square, London Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson, London Siobhan Jones, Headmasters, Putney, London Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson Hair, Body & Mind, Mansfield Chris Williams, Rush Hair, Croydon

Emma Hellier, Bexhill Myla and Davis, London Percy & Reed, Great Portland Street, London Ruffians, Edinburgh Toni&Guy, Covent Garden, London

CREATIVE TALENT

SESSION STYLIST

BEST LOCAL SALON

Category sponsor

Category sponsor

Category sponsor

Johanna Cree Brown, Trevor Sorbie, London Errol Douglas MBE, Errol Douglas, London Skyler McDonald, Seanhanna, Putney, London Luke Pluckrose, Saks, Covent Garden, London Cos Sakkas, Toni&Guy, South Kensington, London

Sam McKnight Tina Outen James Pecis Eugene Souleiman Anthony Turner

Barrie Stephen Hair, Leicester Electric Hairdressing, Oxford Ocean Hairdressing, Cardiff Peter Prosser Hairdressing, Hereford Zullo & Holland, Nottingham

HAIR ICON

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE

Category sponsor

Category sponsor

BUSINESS THINKER

Sally & Jamie Brooks Nicola Clarke Errol Douglas MBE Tim Hartley Mark Hayes Sam McKnight Adam Reed Angelo Seminara Eugene Souleiman

Abacus, Bewdley Ken Picton Salon, Cardiff Michael van Clarke, London Percy & Reed East, London The Stuart Holmes Hair & Beauty Spa, Cheltenham

Category sponsor

Will Foran, Foran & Blake, Chorley Caroline Sanderson, Ego Hair Design, Inverness Michael van Clarke, Michael van Clarke, London Tommy & Esther van der Veken, Tommy’s Hair Company, Ruthin Marc Westerman & Steve Rowbottom, Westrow, Leeds

BEST NEW SALON

AWARD FOR INNOVATION Category sponsor

Category sponsor

Brooks+Brooks, London Nash White, Warwick Percy & Reed East, London Ruffians, Edinburgh The Wonderlab, Hertfordshire

Akin Konizi, Clive Collins & Paul Simbler, HOB Man, Brent Cross Faruk Mohammed, Hair by JFK, Edinburgh Richard Ashforth, SACO, London Richard Phillipart, The Boutique Salon & Spa, Cheshire Sophie Laidlaw & Liam Wickham, Wonderland, Livingstone

LOOK WHO’S MADE IT! GRAND FINAbeLr tem

Monday 2 Sep

W! B O O4K34N6O 10940 C a ll 0 1

TALENTED, GO-GETTING, AGED 30 AND UNDER – AND NOW ONE STEP CLOSER TO A TROPHY! RAISE A GLASS TO THE IT LIST FINALISTS

FINALISTS OF 2013 THE FASHIONISTA

THE RISING STAR

Aaron Carlo Headmasters, London Anna Chapman Trevor Sorbie, Brighton Joshua Goldsworthy Goldsworthy’s, Swindon Isabella Hyde The House of Rush, London Viktoria Toth HOB Salons, Ruislip

Sam Ashcroft Clipso, Watford Adam Barkworth Saks Hair, Exeter Olivia Butt-Freer Lisa Shepherd, Birmingham Georgie Calvert Clipso, Watford Tilly Penn Errol Douglas, London

THE ENTREPRENEUR

THE IT GIRL

Laura Bull Code Hair Consultants, Lowestoft Andrew Cannon Ruffians, Edinburgh Jo Causier Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester Katya Davies Myla and Davis, London Paul Watts Paul Watts Hairdressing, Kettering

Anna Chapman Trevor Sorbie, Brighton Ashleigh Hodges Flame Hair Studios, Towcester Angel Montague-Sayers Sally Montague Hair, Derby Kim Rance Brooks+Brooks, London Nancy Stripe James Roberts, Manchester

THE VISIONARY

THE IT GUY

Andrew-Thomas Corbett Toni&Guy, Stratford, London Jonathan De Francesco Brooks+Brooks, London Dale Herne Rush Hair, Croydon Suk Ram Toni&Guy, Stratford-upon-Avon Rachelle Summerson-Wright Janet Maitland, Durham

Jonathan De Francesco Brooks+Brooks, London Joshua Goldsworthy Goldsworthy’s, Swindon Takuya Morimoto Brooks+Brooks, London Richard Phillipart The Boutique Salon & Spa, Ellesmere Port Ky Wilson Electric Hairdressing, London

Presented by

Sponsored by

THE MOST WANTED AND IT LIST GRAND FINAL Hosted by award-winning Brit-hot comic, Russell Kane

Monday 2 September

Natural History Museum London SW7 5BD

Tickets ÂŁ210 Tables of ten ÂŁ1,900 All food, drinks and entertainment included

BOOK NOW! Call 01434 610940

Creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Creativeheadmag.com/theitlist

Trevor Sorbie show at L’OrÊal Colour Trophy

head t i v e c r e a

ll your Want to fi the hottest h it diary w ents? Visit industry evadmag.com Creativehe

scene Parties, people, places, faces

Brooks+Brooks

Alexa Chung

Bip Ling

THE HOST – Back by popular demand, George Lamb THE DJ – Online fashion sensation Bip Ling THE SPECIAL GUESTS – Alexa Chung, L’Oréal Professionnel INOA ambassador, and Shingai Shoniwa, Mizani ambassador George Lamb

Style and

Creative HEAD 56 44

Toni&Guy Chiswick

IT MAY HAVE BEEN RUNNING for 58 years, but there’s no stopping the L’Oréal Colour Trophy. Original, fashion-fuelled and full of talent, the tension was palpable when the tireless hard work of 65 hair teams came to a climax as the winners were announced to an audience of more than 1,000 people. The Grosvenor House Hotel was transformed by a 42-metre catwalk and enormous screens to show the action at every angle. The spectacle was mesmerising, as super-suave presenter George Lamb sauntered on to the runway, introducing the evening’s Colour Inspired By Fashion show, featuring work from teams at Ken Picton, Charlie Miller, Jo Hansford and Alan Edwards. Following dinner, guests were treated to an otherworldly show from Trevor Sorbie MBE and his incredibly talented art team, before it was time to announce the winners. And while Kenneth Campbell, managing director of L’Oréal Professional Products handed the prizes to the Colour Trophy winners, this year’s Young Colourists were crowned by queen of cool herself, Alexa Chung!

Ken Picton, Cardiff

SUBSTANCE

Shingai Shoniwa

Toni&Guy Regent Street

SCENE

AND THE WINNERS ARE… L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY FIRST PLACE – Brooks+Brooks, London SECOND PLACE – Toni&Guy, Regent Street THIRD PLACE – Gallagher Horner Hair, Bishops Briggs, Scotland

SCOTLAND AND NORTHERN IRELAND – Gallagher Horner Hair, Bishops Briggs, Scotland NORTH WESTERN – Christopher Bennett, Fleetwood NORTH EASTERN – Headmaster & Co, Newcastle EASTERN – Kennadys, Ingatestone SOUTHERN – Nashwhite Hairdressing, Warwick WESTERN – Ken Picton, Cardiff LONDON – Brooks+Brooks, London

MEN’S IMAGE AWARD FIRST PLACE – Saks, Doncaster SECOND PLACE – Royston Blythe, Wolverhampton

MIZANI AFRO CATWALK AWARD Toni&Guy, Chiswick

Headmaster & Co

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY REGIONAL WINNERS

Alan Edwards Creative HEAD 44

Charlie Miller

FIVE LEGENDARY ART TEAMS, an audience of hairdressing glitterati and the hottest fashion designs on the planet… there is nothing like the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. This year, teams from Ken Picton, Charlie Miller, Jo Hansford, Alan Edwards and Trevor Sorbie presented models that encapsulated their brands and highoctane fashion. Opening the show, Alan Edwards began with a futuristic slant, with waterfall veils of monochrome colour and dramatic shapes that fell flawlessly over designs

by Aminaka Wilmont. Up next, with models wearing stunning nude designs from Maria Grachvogel, the Charlie Miller team played with mixing textures and bold colours to create a beautiful tunnel of light. Combining a vibrant burst of colour with voluminous, ’70s-inspired curls, Pop Candy by Ken Picton then delivered a burst of Pop Art energy to the room, with models dressed in pieces from designer Bernard Chandran, before Jo Hansford MBE and team took the audience across to the French Riviera with models dressed in designs by Felder Felder, with ultra-glam, voluminous creations. Finally, we have Trevor Sorbie MBE and his amazing art team to thank for this year’s breathtaking final show. Starting off in a giant glass box in the centre of the stage surrounded by smoke and light, what followed was an avant-garde presentation featuring models with pulsating hair that breathed life into a twisted, angelic collection.

Ken Picton

It’s SHOW time

Ken Picton

Trevor Sorbie

Trevor Sorbie

Colour Inspired by Fashion show

Jo Hansford

SCENE

Sassoon Academy TrendVision finalists

Jasmin Giamattei

Night

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Maria Galati

CREATIVE HEAD LOVES a night full of hair and fashion inspiration – and the Wella Professionals TrendVision 2013 Southern heat provided exactly that! Kick-starting the event, the BassToneSlap drummers came booming onto the stage followed by a showcase from Bruce Masefield and Edward Darley, who talked us through The Muses by Sassoon Academy. The collection showcased thee modern visions of the Ancient Greek muses, before representatives from P.Kai Hair, D&J Ambrose and Toni&Guy presented colour collections using Wella Professionals’ latest invention, Color.id. And then it was time for the big reveal.

Congratulations to the Southern finalists, who were announced as Paul Reed of Guy Fawkes Hair and Beauty, Clayde Baumann of D&J Ambrose, Sean Nolan of HOB Salons and Gemma Smith of Fubar Hair Creative for the Color category. And for Young Talent, Peter Burkill of HOB Salons, Katy Pickering of Strangeways, Jasmin Giamattei of Marc Antoni, Lucy Tuck of Marc Antoni and Luke Benson of D&J Ambrose made it through. The winners will now go on to compete in the UK and Ireland final in October at the Roundhouse in Camden, London.

Kai Wan

VISIONS

Brian Suhr, international master trainer for Davines

French

Angelo Seminara

FOLLIES

The Allilon team

Johnny Othona of Allilom

Davines founders the Bollati family

SCENE

THIS TIME 30 years ago, one of the most ethical and original haircare brands was born. To celebrate this milestone, we headed to the Folies Bergere in Paris with more than 1,500 hairdressers from 45 nations in tow, for the Davines World Wide Tour 2013. The stunning venue proved a glamorous spectacle for two days of inspiration and education. On the first day delegates watched a selection of hairdressing’s most creative talents take to the stage to present stunning collections created using Davines colour and styling products – including the new More Inside styling range, which launched at the event. The team from Allilon Academy flew the flag for Britain with a stunning presentation of 20 models. Other highlights included a surprise appearance from Aldo Signoretti, the legendary hairdresser responsible for the hair looks on films including Baz Luhrmann’s Moulin Rouge, and a presentation from Davines international creative director, Angelo Seminara. Then there was time for a quick change into ’20s finery to while away the evening sipping champagne at the Pavillon d’Armenonville.

Day two saw guests return to the Folies Bergere for a morning packed with seminars and product demonstrations before heading to the station to catch the Eurostar. All aboard!

Creative HEAD 61

PARTNERSHIP HAIR AND FASHION worlds united under one roof at renowned art and design college Central Saint Martins, for an evening that was at the forefront of cutting edge. For the 13th year running, the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio team was out in force backstage to style the Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion graduate show. Against the backdrop of the college’s Granary Building, a crop of 40 BA Fashion graduates showcased their collections to a hip audience that included milliner Stephen Jones, singer Will Young and LOVE editor Katie Grand. The 12-strong L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio team wowed with its hair looks – a showcase of halo braids, dual textures and downward rolls that were adaptable enough to work with the daring and eye-popping designs, which included bullhorn headpieces and handbags filled with live goldfish. Fashion designer Giles Deacon tied up the evening with the presentation of L’Oréal Professionnel’s Award for Young Talent, which went to Mao Usami, whose fun and fearless collection was a big hit with the judges.

Creative HEAD 62

Giles Deacon

L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio team

A fashionable

Errol Douglas MBE (centre left) opens the Adee Phelan academy with owner Adee (centre right)

SCENE

NEW

BIRMINGHAM WAS ABUZZ with the grand opening of Adee Phelan’s first academy. Among the cool interiors of his salon at The Cube complex, which showcases a giant yellow gorilla and art by Damien Hirst, guests raised a glass of bubbly to the inaugural Adee Phelan Academy. Hailed by Adee as “a special place for the industry”, the academy has been set up with private sector skills and employment provider esg to provide an inspiring environment for young people to learn in. He also described his new venture as an “escape from reality” which will creatively inspire new hairdressers in a way a college environment can’t. “It’s my chance to give a bit back, and to leave a legacy,” he added. The evening was brought to a conclusion with an appearance from Errol Douglas MBE, who cut the ribbon to offically open Adee’s academy!

Images copyright Tom Hodgson/esg 2013

begınnings

Tumi Soyinka and Sharleen Hunter Leigh Keates

Kathryn Dartnell Louise Ortelli and Gustav Fouche

Sally Learmouth and Gary Russell

Melissa Remi, Darren Webster and Ragna Kreter

Creative HEAD 64

Sam Grocutt, Jan and Paul Edmonds

MIXING GENRES better than Tom Cruise can mix a daiquiri in Cocktail, this month’s Coterie was a film night special – a heady mix of comedy and sci-fi with a splash of fashion glamour. The first act saw hair, make-up and prosthetics artist Jan Sewell entertain the audience with tales of turning Dawn French and Jennifer Saunders into pop duo Bros and making Jennifer look very old for Absolutely Fabulous, as well as turning Lenny Henry into Michael Jackson. Jan kept the audience enthralled with a short video revealing how she assisted in ageing Jesper Christensen by 30 years for the film The Debt, make-up that took three hours to put on and an hour to take off at the end of a 14-hour day. Next, Bafta award-winning filmmaker Phil Dupée and digital expert Sean Singleton of The Singleton Consultancy discussed the trend away from watching television towards consuming media on web devices with Susanna Flynn from PR agency Ketchum.

It’s predicted that online video will account for 57 per cent of all consumer web traffic by 2015, with Sean stating that we’re “living in a technological revolution that’s only just started”.

Having created mini movie masterpieces for names such as Puma, Max Factor and Vivienne Westwood, Phil shared his insight into how to bring brands alive through film by applying the same ethics you’d use in TV commercials to online shorts.

Jan Sewell, Phil Dupée and Sean Singleton

blockbuster

Rachel Wyatt

SUMMER

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Whether you’re working on state-of-the-art products and processes or a jam-packed educational experience is on the agenda, hairdressing is a career that offers the luxury of travel – and if you’re based or trained in the UK, so much the better. Revered for its creativity and boundary-pushing style, British hairdressing inspires stylists across the world. For this special globetrotting issue, we’ve tracked down a selection of Brits and regulars to our shores to uncover how a globetrotting life can catapult your career

THE world SERVICE

JAMES PECIS

GLOBAL SESSION STYLIST Creative HEAD: Which countries have you worked in during the past year?

James Pecis: I’m writing this now from the airport lobby in Los Angeles. I arrived in California last night from New York and now I’m off to Paris, France. In the past year I have been all over the world, from Cusco in Peru and Tokyo, Japan to Saint Barts in the Caribbean and Morocco. I travel regularly to France, Spain, Italy, and a mix of the US, Iceland, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Germany, Canada, Switzerland and Czech Republic. I have a lot of air miles!

CH: What’s the best aspect about working abroad?

JP: Getting to meet new people, see new things and taste new food. It’s something that most people never get to do and I am always reminded how fortunate I am.

CH: What do you think the rest of the world can learn from British hairdressing?

JP: I’m an American and I moved to London six years ago to try and absorb as much of the English culture as possible and its way of hairdressing. It’s hard to put into words, but English hairdressers have courage and creativity unlike any others.

Being around this creative energy was the magic that was missing when I was living in New York.

CH: What advice would you give stylists thinking of working overseas?

JP: Take opportunities that present themselves and don’t let fear incapacitate you. The more you are exposed to, the more you can influence what you do and how you live.

LEIGH KEATES

STYLIST AT THE ATELIER AND GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR CLOUD NINE Creative HEAD: How has Cloud Nine’s international growth had an impact on your career?

Leigh Keates: In 2012 Cloud Nine grew from being stocked in 14 countries to 23, which has already begun to impact on my exposure overseas and has also opened doors to extend my personal profile. I recently did a consumer press tour that further cemented my relationship with key journalists and I was the main UK stylist for two sass & bide London Fashion Week shows, where Cloud Nine’s Australian partners sponsored the event and Renya Xydis, the creative director out there, led the hairstyling.

CH: How can the UK’s influence be seen globally?

LK: I think the UK’s influence is widespread as we have so many different trends in varying parts of the country – London has got its own style depending on whether you’re in Dalston or Mayfair for

example, so you get a very diverse range, there is not just one look that defines Britain. Additionally, if you look at a lot of the leading hairdressers at New York, Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks, many are British, so in a way they are setting the trends globally.

CH: Which country would you love to work in and why?

LK: I’d love to work in Japan. I love Japanese fashion and their wild trends. They take inspiration from London styles but then mix them together or take them to a wackier level – it’d be a fun place to work.

ANTOINETTE BEENDERS

SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT OF AVEDA CREATIVE Creative HEAD: Where have you worked in the past year?

Antoinette Beenders: So far I have been to France, the US, Nepal, Hong Kong, Japan, England, Singapore, Germany, India, South Korea and the British Virgin Islands.

CH: What has been your favourite experience so far?

AB: I love traveling so all my experiences are great. I am currently doing a tour of shows with Stella McCartney, which takes my team and I to Tokyo, Hong Kong and New York. For Aveda we photograph all our campaigns on location so I am constantly in the most amazing places, some very remote and exotic, some very poor and barren. However, I do get a lot of satisfaction out of giving back to communities, and for the past six years have travelled to Nepal to shoot Aveda’s Christmas campaigns. It’s so amazing to see what effect we have had over there, giving these communities sustainable business.

CH: What is your favourite country?

AB: I think it has to be between Nepal and India – these beautiful places have really opened up my eyes and made me think differently. It made me realise you really don’t need anything, sometimes in the western world we get terribly focused on things that don’t necessarily mean that much.

CH: What can the world learn from British hairdressing?

AB: We can all learn from each other, the world has become a much smaller place and as we move into the future we all have to be much more locally relevant.

A great haircut in the UK might not work on someone in Japan or South America and vice-versa. I have seen some amazing perm techniques in Tokyo that we can use in Europe and North America and I am just starting to get into Afro hair.

KELLY SCOTT

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF STRANDS HAIRDRESSING AND REDKEN GLOBAL ARTIST Creative HEAD: Where have you worked in the past year?

Kelly Scott: The US – I’ve been to Las Vegas and New York.

CH: What has been your best experience working outside the UK? KS: One of my best experiences was being asked by Redken to go to New York and help create a collection with a number of international artists that would be distributed around the globe.

I felt really proud to be representing the UK. CH: What advice would you give those who want to work overseas?

KS: Working abroad takes a lot of commitment, sacrifice, and hard work, especially when you’re doing long nights prepping hair, travelling on Sundays, and getting up early – it’s not unusual to have a 5am call time. When you miss a birthday or special occasion because you’re out of the country it can be hard, but if it’s something you love doing it won’t feel like work!

CH: How has working abroad helped to shape your career?

KS: Experiencing diverse cultures, different countries and getting the chance to meet different people is incredible. Educating abroad has definitely helped me grow personally and professionally and it’s also made me more confident and competent as an artist.

Creative HEAD 72

MARK LEESON

OWNER OF MARK LEESON HAIR BODY AND MIND AND GOLDWELL AMBASSADOR Creative HEAD: Where have you worked in the past year?

Mark Leeson: Spain, Hong Kong, Russia, Germany and Australia.

CH: What has been your best experience working abroad?

ML: I did a show in Germany with the Five Point Alliance at Cosmoprof in front of 4,000 people. It was an incredible experience; the stage was huge and there was a sea of people watching.

CH: Where has been your favourite place to work and why?

ML: I think Hong Kong, purely because I love the city for everything that it offers. It was also extremely rewarding to be ‘dressing’ hair in Asia, as a lot of what they see on stage over there is cutting techniques as opposed to styling and dressing hair.

CH: How has working abroad helped to shape your career?

ML: It’s definitely helped grow my profile globally and has increased the demand for my work to be published in magazines around the world. This in turn builds our company.

JAMIE STEVENS

SALON OWNER AND MATRIX GLOBAL AMBASSADOR Creative HEAD: Which countries have you worked in during the past year?

Jamie Stevens: France, the US, Italy, Turkey, Singapore and Morocco.

CH: Where has been your favourite place to visit so far and why?

JS: It’s that soaking up of different cultures that makes working abroad so interesting. I have to say working on stage in Italy just after I found out I’d been nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year was pretty emotional and the crowd was so receptive to that, it was quite special.

Also my trip to Singapore for Matrix was a great success! Teaching both educators and hairdressers on different days, it was good to have so much interaction. I gave them a taste of different aspects of hairdressing from cutting to more avant-garde techniques that I’ve been

working on recently. Lovely people and food but it was sweltering there! Never thought I’d say it, but I missed the cold!

CH: What advice would you give stylists thinking of working overseas?

JS: Do your research. Before going abroad, I’ll always do a little homework to understand which celebrities seem popular there, what fashion designers and trends are currently in vogue, what their economy is like and so on. I always like to learn a few key words of the language, too, even if it’s just ‘hello’ or ‘thank you’, as I think audiences really appreciate that you’ve made an effort to integrate yourself into their culture.

ANGELO SEMINARA ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF DAVINES

Creative HEAD: Which countries have you worked in during the past year?

Angelo Seminara: France, The US, Denmark, Peru, Cuba, India, Italy, Canada, Mexico, Bolivia and South Korea.

CH: Where has been your favourite place so far and why?

AS: London is still my favourite place. It’s the most creative place on the planet. The biggest source of inspiration for human beings. Inspiration is what leads to motivation, and motivation leads to happiness.

CH: What do you think the rest of the world can learn from British hairdressing?

AS: So much. The more I travel around the world the more I realise that in England we have the essence of hairdressing genetics. In this country we are always willing to share our knowledge 100 per cent and that makes us stand out.

CH: What advice would you give to those about to work overseas?

AS: I think it’s important to travel and experience as much as possible and see different ways of dealing with hair and hair industries. I left my native Italy and I am very happy about the decision I made. You can always go back to your roots.

CH: How has working abroad helped to shape your career?

AS: It has put me on a bigger platform among the best in the hairdressing industry and I have learnt and experienced so much; such as winning numerous awards and become internationally recognised.

Creative HEAD 74

Bruno Marc Giamattei (centre) with the 2013 FAME Team

Errol Douglas MBE (second left) with the 2011 FAME Team

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE AND BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI SALON OWNERS AND FAME TEAM MENTORS

CREATIVE HEAD: What do you think the rest of the world can learn from British hairdressing?

Bruno Marc Giamattei: I’ve found the industry to be much more closed and reserved overseas. In Britain we tend to share our ideas within a very interactive environment, which could be due to the many amazing opportunities we have to present our work.

CH: Where has been your favourite place to work so far and why?

Errol Douglas: My favourite place ever has been going to New York. I love the energy of the city and it gets my creative juices flowing when I am there. I have done some amazing shoots and fashions shows for fashion week and my memories of the city are always good. New York absolutely promotes fashion and lifestyle.

CH: What has been your best experience working abroad?

BMG: My best experience has really been seeing how people abroad accept British hairdressing as the very best and experiencing their overwhelming praise at the work we produce.

CH: How has working abroad progressed the FAME Team?

ED: It has given them international esteem, allowed them to network and showcase their employer’s brand.

CH: Do you think working overseas makes the FAME Team more appealing to join?

BMG: Working abroad is one of the best experiences we can offer the FAME Team. It helps members to broaden their professional horizons, soak up different culture and inspiration and experience new audiences.

FOR MORE INSPIRATION, TIPS AND ADVICE ON WORKING ABROAD VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM AND FIND OUT WHAT ADAM REED, CHRIS MOODY AND PAUL FALLTRICK HAVE BEEN UP TO ACROSS THE GLOBE! #GLOBETROTTERS

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Wish you were here brands, salons and stylists are flying the flag for British hairdressing

l a b o l g g n i o G

d r o w e h t Spread Internationally renowned online hair resource, MyHairDressers.com (MHD) has unveiled its Global Show Team. Selected for their passion for education, Steve Turner, Paul Phillips and Stacey Broughton (pictured above from left to right), made their stage debut together for the official launch of MHD in China, at the eighth Asian Hairdresser Festival in Shanghai in June.

Know your audience

Most Wanted BEST LOCAL SALON 2012 Neil and Jayne Prigent of Jas Hair Group were invited to present at an event in Russia. Following their win at the Most Wanted awards, the dynamic duo shared its success story with an audience of 200 salon owners at the Russian Northwest Alliance of Hairdressers conference in Moscow.

Other speakers at the event included educator Alan Austin-Smith, PHAB chief executive Nergish Wadia-Austin, and salon owners Sarah and Stuart Holmes of Stuart Holmes Hair and Beauty.

When Shaun Pulfrey developed the Tangle Teezer, he was pretty sure he knew his product. But now that it is sold in 60 countries it appears that across the globe his brush is used for so much more than detangling. Here, Shaun reveals what the Tangle Teezer is up to elsewhere: Australia – Tangle Teezer is generally marketed for sports, swimming and travel.

Brazil – Seen as a professional product and loved by session stylists.

Canada – A brush to be used in the shower, to draw shampoo and conditioner through to the ends.

China – ‘Bling is king’ for their Tangle Teezer.

There, it’s a high-fashion accessory created to be seen in a designer handbag.

Japan, Thailand and Malaysia – What they value above all other benefits is that their Tangle Teezer makes their hair appear shinier.

Spain – Very popular with younger children, a cure for screaming in the morning!

US – Used as a specialist brush for wigs and weaves.

The nomad London-based groomer Miguel Gutierrez – The Nomad Barber – is testing whether his trade can fund and feed him as he travels around the world. Embarking on his globetrotting challenge in June with very little money, he is on a quest to cross the globe via five checkpoints in Turkey, India, Australia, the US and Brazil.

LUIGI MURENU LUIGI MURENU is fabulously successful – on speed dial to the supermodels, on first name terms with Hollywood stars and the mastermind behind some of the world’s most dazzling catwalk shows. Creative HEAD met exclusively with the hair artisan to discuss fashion collaborations, A-list madness and how good hair comes from a combination of chic and a touch of faux pas

GLOBAL STAR

WHEN PEOPLE CALL OUT “Luigi! Luigi!” we all know that it’s Luigi Murenu they want, from top fashion designers and photographers to celebrities and models.

The Italian-born stylist is blessed with an incredible talent for crafting beautiful, breathtaking hair confections, the result of a vivid imagination matched with some of the best hair skills in the business. Fuelled by his passions, one of which is dance, his styles evoke movement – curves, spirals and shapes that are full of life and infused with creative energy. He reads hair like an astronomer reads a map of the stars. “A woman’s hair is an integral part of her true self. I can see who she is by looking at the quality of her hair and the way it’s styled,” he says.

Young and restless, Luigi wasted no time moving from small-town Sardinia to big-city Paris “because that’s where the fashion shows were”, and then on to London and New York, where he has achieved enormous success. He has worked with every leading photographer – Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Steven Klein, Mario Sorrenti – and

has clocked up countless magazines, ad campaigns, fashion shows and even advertisements with Tim Burton and David Lynch.

Famously, his work captured the attention of Madonna, with whom Luigi has formed a long-lasting bond, creating many of the singer’s iconic looks over the years. His high-octane world also features other mega-stars, such as Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Cate Blanchett and Jennifer Lopez, and the list goes on.

Recently, Kérastase signed up Luigi as artistic director for its newly launched Couture Styling range – the first in the brand’s near 50-year history. His influence is everywhere, from the products’ ground-breaking textures and radically different approach to hair styling, to the stunning hair looks created for brand ambassador Kate Moss. But then, as ever, Luigi’s work is based on listening and dialogue. “The value of working together is that we all learn from each other,” he says. “That’s the only way I can really feel committed.”

Creative HEAD: Growing up in Sardinia, what made you realise that you wanted to become a hairstylist?

Luigi Murenu: Well, first of all, my family background is very normal. My mum was a nurse and my dad used to be chief of transport for the island, I have a brother who is a doctor, another who is an engineer, and a sister who studied to be a teacher. I think I was meant to be an engineer but I always wanted to do something artistic. At first I wanted to be a dancer, but my parents said: “You can be anything you want to be, but you can’t be a dancer”. So I had a friend who wanted to become a hairdresser and I went along to the school with him; it turned out that I was quite the little star!

CH: And so, at the age of 19, you left home to pursue your dream…

LM: Sardinia didn’t offer much to me. It’s a beautiful landscape, but it was not the beauty I wanted. I moved to Paris at a young age, and then headed to London, where I lived for about 11 years. A quarter of my heart is English. I moved here because a friend recommended it. It had a cutting edge – Sorbie, Sassoon, they were part of my inspiration. The problem was I didn’t speak any English – I went to Harrods and introduced myself to the manager, and I just read from a piece of paper that said: “I’m looking for a job. I’m a hairdresser.”

They gave me a test and took me on as a top stylist as they could see I knew how to cut hair. I became the salon’s youngest artistic director aged 23, started working for magazines, and suddenly I was travelling and going out a lot, and things started to fall into place.

CH: And then one day Madonna called!

LM: Yes! It was so exciting! My agent called and told me that Madonna had got in touch. I’d done a job with Jodie Kidd, and I think it was because of that job that Madonna asked me. It was during her Evita phase and she asked me to do her hair for Top of the Pops! I thought it was a joke – why me? I flew straight from New York, and she was very happy because I did her hair in 15 minutes, so she booked me again and we have collaborated ever since.

CH: You’ve been responsible for so many of her hair transformations. Which is your favourite?

LM: I changed her from her Marilyn Monroe look to the more natural, tousled style she wore for Ray of Light. We called the look Fallen Angel.

CH: Describe a week in the life of Luigi Murenu...

LM: Work, work and more work! I give 100 per cent on every job I do, and even when I am on holiday I am thinking about the next job, mentally preparing.

CH: So how do you juggle the workload?

LM: It’s about organisation and discipline. It’s about being committed to this mission, and enjoying what I do. I love every single part of my job!

CH: Session styling is all about teamwork. Who are the people who help you create your best work?

LM: My team inspires me to do my best work.

Hairdressers are very hard working, they give everything. When we go to the shows, I see these

GLOBAL STAR

as our Olympic Games – we are the athletes. It can be constant and gruelling. My assistants come from all over the world; I have a team of 150 I can call on, both freelancers and salon stylists – there’s always space in my team for the right people. When they go back to the salon they have been through an experience, and are part of a new community.

Watching everybody – in my early years, Toni Mascolo, Trevor Sorbie, Vidal Sassoon – you get so excited, but I also learn from my assistants. I have to remind myself that the moment we lose the passion, we lose our style. Don’t get jaded. It’s interesting to see how the boys and girls on the team find their own way, their own individuality.

CH: Backstage now, it’s all about working with cameras in your face and boom mikes over your shoulder. Do you see yourself as a performer?

LM: For any hairdresser it’s important to be in full control and to be able to concentrate and I’m teaching this to my team. It’s about focus and perfection. In life you have to pick your battles. You think only about the hair. I want everyone to think about the beauty of the girl and not get lost by the lights and the camera.

It’s all part of the game.

CH: How do you find your inspiration? Is it something you actively seek out, or is it just innate?

LM: I get my inspiration from everywhere. I travel a great deal and I also go out a lot. Art exhibitions, films, books – I’m very sensitive and everything

inspires me! I’m like a sponge that absorbs every vibrant thing around me. The street, with all those men and women with such unique personalities, is also an endless source of ideas. You just have to know how to look at it all.

CH: What is your philosophy for defining a style?

LM: As an artist, my work is about pushing boundaries, trying and testing everything. But even when it’s very elaborately styled, structured and sprayed, like it is on the runway, hair has to express movement. No matter how extreme it might be, a hairstyle should never look like a wig. A woman’s hairstyle expresses her personality and that’s what I like to highlight. It’s a living, breathing extension of who she is, just like her skin. I always keep that idea in mind while I work.

CH: Look through your portfolio and you see all this amazing advertising work for Gucci, Max Mara, Pucci… do you prefer to work with Italian brands?

LM: My Italian roots are very important to me. Don’t forget in Italy we have that imagery, the movies, actors like Anna Magnani, there’s beauty and the history of art. I wouldn’t underestimate that influence!

But also there’s my background mix of London cool, Paris chic and New York fabulousness – with all the travelling I do, the different cultures get mixed together and it becomes one language for me. But yes, there is still a great amount of Italian in me – just listen to my accent!

head JUNE 2013

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The art of

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CH: Why do you call yourself a hair artisan?

LM: I like to harness all techniques and bring a new modernity to them. I really work on the texture of the hair. People who are capable of working on textures, I call them artisans because they are transforming something raw into something very special. I’m technical; I want to master my craft. I would say that I’m a purist – if you look at the texture of the hair that I do it doesn’t matter what shape or style; it’s architectural too. I can be minimalist or over the top, but always with a hint of character.

CH: You’ve already achieved so much – is there a particular moment you look back on as being pivotal to your career?

LM: That moment came when I became responsible for my knowledge. I worked a very long time to discover the language of texture. For me, good textures create a certain quality of hair. I wanted to pioneer that side. I wanted to push the beauty, the details, the shapes. Sometimes I exaggerate. I love movement.

I’m like a lion tamer of my work! It’s amazing, that moment when you master a new skill. A cover of a magazine is great, but the biggest achievement as a hairdresser is the moment when you learn and you know your craft.

CH: Avedon, Stephen Meisel, Mert and Marcus, Steven Klein, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin – you’ve worked with every top photographer…

LM: I have worked with many of the greats, but

also with younger photographers with a real eye.

I like working with i-D magazine, and through it I’ve met Daniele Duell and Iango Henzi and I love their pictures. I’ve worked with them on so many projects these past three years, and my work with them is very complete and organic. What I saw in them was a real talent, and I felt that they were very powerful photographers. Sometimes the fame doesn’t mean anything. When you find photographers with whom you share lots of ideas but who also portray your work in the most beautiful way, it’s the greatest collaboration. Right now, they are the photographers of the moment.

CH: Do you have a wish list of people you would still like to work with?

LM: They are all dead! If I could travel back, it would be Marilyn Monroe.

CH: What would you have done?

LM: I don’t know. I would have hugged her probably!

She is the type of woman I understand very well.

CH: And who is that type of woman?

LM: Sensitive, assertive, sexy, mysterious and in charge.

CH: What’s it been like working with Kate Moss on Kérastase Couture Styling?

LM: Amazing! The best thing that could have happened. It’s like heaven on earth. It brings three icons together – Kérastase, Kate and myself. And

Givenchy A/W13

GLOBAL STAR

together it’s like the perfect team. It will become a piece of history.

WORKING A LOOK The Givenchy A/W13 show was one of the most talked-about of the whole season – and not just because of the exceptional 48-piece collection Riccardo Tisci showed for the house, but because of the hair looks created by Luigi Murenu.

“Riccardo called me in Milan and said, ‘I want to have a test with you and only you’ – it was a test of eight hours,” Luigi recalls of the process by which he and Tisci, with whom he has worked since the designer started at Givenchy eight years ago, decided on the closely cropped, colourful hair looks the models wore on the runway. “Usually the hair here is very organic, but Riccardo wanted to bring the show to another level.

When I arrived at the studio, the first thing he did was play me all the tracks from the Antony and the Johnsons album, and he told me, ‘It will be extremely emotional, and I want you to bring something sensitive to the hair’.”

Luigi obliged, with 20 different ideas that were “masculine but extremely feminine – not androgynous” and, at Tisci’s request, “looked like there were little roses on the head”. The result was a number of tightly wound pin curls that Murenu and his team applied to every girl, no matter what her haircut, completely without extensions. “We used the length of Saskia de Brauw to the length of Isabeli Fontana – everybody’s natural hair!”

Luigi reveals of the deliberately flat swirls that were meant to have a ‘Victorian punk’ quality, even though there was something quite ’30s about the bathing-cap silhouette – faux neon colours aside.

“Originally it was without colour,” Luigi admits, of what ultimately became temporary shocks of sky-blue, dark blue, orange, fuchsia, red, black, purple and a light pink. “The girls loved it!” he continues, pointing out that many kept their hair totally intact to hit the post-show party circuit. “It was extremely special. We wanted to represent the woman who wants to dream, the people who appreciate the poetry of fashion.”

CH: Why is she right for the brand?

LM: Kate Moss appeals to many women, from teenagers to women in their 40s. We know that she’s approaching that age, too. She has perennially maintained that iconic status, she’s considered the queen of models. Madonna is the Queen of Pop; Kate is the Queen of Models – I only work with queens!

CH: Having worked with the best across the industry, what’s the characteristic you all share?

LM: We all share the knowledge of learning. Kate came from Croydon, she made her own way as a model. We know that story – she was disadvantaged in comparison with other girls, and look what she became. It’s inspirational. Madonna came from Detroit as a dancer, had to make her own way to New York to become the Queen of Pop. And then there’s me, this little boy from Sardinia, who made his way too.

CH: What do you think that little boy would make of Luigi today?

LM: I would never have expected to be where I am today. I would have dreamed of it, I always felt this way – what I’m feeling today I have felt every day, the same. I have the same sentiments, the same emotions. Life might change, I became who I became, but I’m still the same.

In the heat of the moment

They were on an Australian tour with Matrix, but when HOOKER & YOUNG found themselves with a few days off, what did the dynamic duo do? Organise a smoking-hot shoot exclusively for Creative HEAD, of course…

“The idea was to shoot one girl and create a story that would capture the very essence of our adventure. The entire team met three days before the shoot to discuss the concept and ensure we were all on the same page” “We arrived in Melbourne on the Matrix tour and found ourselves with a few free days, so us being us, we decided to organise a shoot. We started working with a team of people who we instantly connected with, so it seemed like the perfect opportunity to create something quite special” Creative HEAD 84

HOOKER & YOUNG

“The shoot would tell a story of a goddesslike girl who would take us on a journey of discovery. We wanted to find someone who had a natural beauty and purity about her but also with a strong look that could command attention. The team had a girl in mind, Elodie, who had both the youthful innocence we needed and the confidence to carry it off”

“With a trailer hired, we headed off on our road trip.

When we arrived we briefed the model, asking her to imagine she was a kind of Avatar who had landed from another place and was on a journey of discovery. Elodie was amazing and gave us some fantastic moments”

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“The location was perfect and created some superb backdrops to shoot against – as the natural light changed throughout the day, so did the mood, allowing us to tell the story perfectly”

Head in the clouds

Doing what they do best – HOOKER AND YOUNG have turned up the heat to bring you this stunning tale of discovery Photography JAMES PIPINO

HOOKER & YOUNG

HOOKER & YOUNG

HOOKER & YOUNG

HOOKER & YOUNG

“In Aboriginal mythology Yhi is the goddess of creation – a solar deity. She lived in Dreamtime and slept until a whistle awakened her.

She took a deep breath and opened her eyes, flooding the world with radiance and light” MICHAEL YOUNG

LOCATION MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA HAIR GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG STYLING VASS ARVANITIS MAKE-UP RACHEL MONTGOMERY PRODUCTS MATRIX

King Kin of the

world

“Go where your clients are” ELENA LAVAGNI, DIRECTOR AT NEVILLE’S Neville’s Hair & Beauty expanded to St Barts in the Caribbean as a way of “bridging the gap” with clients, says Elena. The Belgravia salon noticed that a lot of its clients were holidaying in the region and when it was approached

by Hotel Taiwana St Barts to set up a franchise, it seemed a logical step. “Our clients needed a salon they could trust, so in a way we followed our clients out here,” she says.

Neville’s St Barts has gained a loyal following since. “We recognised client needs, providing regular blow-drys and restorative treatments to nourish beach hair,” says Elena.

She admits that setting up a salon in a hotel abroad was a huge challenge, but “perseverance, a belief in your brand and keeping ahead of the trends” all helped to make expansion a success. She adds: “As the salon owner, you need to keep up visits – go there at least five times a year to keep in with the locals, the staff and the clients.”

YOU’VE WORKED HARD to get where you are today. Your salon is doing well, it has a loyal clientele and your team is content. So where do you go from here? “Now is a good time for salons to consider expanding internationally, but only if they have an infrastructure in place to support the venture,” says Stephen Kee, managing director of Saks.

There are many benefits to expanding your business worldwide. It increases awareness of your brand, gives you access to a new clientele and provides numerous invaluable experiences, from meeting new people and learning better ways to run your business to diversifying your products or services and offering staff members some global experience.

Economic growth forecasters pinpoint China, India and the Middle East as key growth markets for the future, while a 2013 study* found Hong Kong to have the largest number of new store launches from leading fashion brands.

International expansion may be easier than it ever used to be, but those looking to expand overseas will still face many challenges, not least language barriers and cultural differences.

Unforeseen costs will always occur and the difficulties of distance presented by running a business from another country will be varied. Before you even think about expanding internationally, you have to have a solid foundation in the UK, a proven business model that works and ensure you know and understand your market. Once this is all in place, you’re ready to set your sights on the horizon. But where do you start? And how do you even begin to get your head around the tax regulations and laws in place in other countries? We ask those pioneers who have ventured across the ocean...

Neville Hair and Beauty, St Barts

*Retail Market Study conducted by Swiss-based firm, Location Group

Expanding your brand into far-flung places might seem like a good idea, but the reality can often be much more difficult than you initially thought. We round up the TIPS AND TRICKS from big chains and small boutiques that have crossed the stormy seas of expansion

EMPIRE BUILDING

CAMERON AMOS, TAYLOR TAYLOR MANAGING DIRECTOR For Taylor Taylor, location was less important than finding the right partnership. After months of research, the London-based salon group decided that the best opportunity for them would be to open through a hotel, and so collaborated with One&Only Reethi Rah in the Maldives.

“Working with the support and local knowledge of such an iconic resort allowed us to open without the high risks that would normally be associated with an overseas opening,” explains Cameron. While the resort’s philosophy of ‘welcoming each guest as an old friend’ was in line with the salon’s, there were difficulties. “Working with different time zones can really slow things down. We were having conference calls at 4am between the Maldives, Dubai, New York and London,” he says.

Another aspect that slowed down progress for Taylor Taylor was shipping and customs, and Cameron advises to get as much support as possible on this as costs can escalate quickly with items getting held at customs.

But the work has paid off, with the group currently 15 per cent ahead of sales target in the Maldives, giving it the confidence to look for more opportunities worldwide.

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Taylor Taylor Maldives

“Finding the right partnership is crucial”

“It’s essential to enforce good communication across all departments” TIM BINNINGTON, HEADMASTERS COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR UK salon group Headmasters has recently expanded into Norway, partnering with Raise, Scandinavia’s largest hairdressing group, to launch several salons. “Good communication, from PR and marketing to technical and education, reinforces and encourages new teams to learn about the brand and help build the culture,” explains Tim. The salon group also found having designated UK team members dedicated to supporting the teams in Norway helped, getting the group’s ethos across through its people. Another factor to consider is how you want to open and operate, be it your own business, a franchise operation or brand licensing. Headmasters chose to partner with Raise as it felt the company reflected the group’s core values and beliefs, but for a partnership to work, you have to ensure it won’t mean deviating from your brand values, salon look and feel, or a change in clientele. “Trying to enforce your own culture and values in another country does have its challenges, but through strong communication and a constant review of the business it is possible,” adds Tim.

“Focus on hiring the right team” STEPHEN KEE, SAKS MANAGING DIRECTOR Saks offers short-term contracts with round-trip tickets for experienced UK stylists to go abroad to Saks outlets in Kuwait and India. “The idea is to get people who know the Saks identity to India and Kuwait to promote the brand,” says Stephen. Saks chose to focus on international growth during a period of slower domestic growth, venturing to India and Kuwait after in-depth market research. “This really worked for us, Saks India has surpassed our expectations and business plan. However, it’s vital to have a good understanding of differing cultures, customer needs and legal and tax systems,” he adds. Saks chose Mumbai as it’s the commercial capital of India. If you’re not sure where you’d like to expand into, Stephen suggests researching any opportunities thoroughly: emerging economies will more than likely offer tax breaks for companies looking to set up shop.

Opening of Headmasters Tromsø

TONI MASCOLO OBE, CO-FOUNDER OF TONI&GUY “Education is the backbone of our business,” says Toni, and the salon group employs 7,000 people around the world so it clearly knows a thing or two about what makes a brand work.

But no matter how big or small you are when you initially set out, Toni&Guy can’t impress enough the importance of educating your teams. “We have 23 academies worldwide as well as ongoing training on the shop floors to ensure that no matter where they are – be it London, Paris or Hong Kong – a client will receive the same haircut and service,” explains Toni. When first starting out, he advises employing a native of the country you’re branching into. “I have found that the most successful salons overseas have been those that are run by a native of that country who knows the laws and culture. You cannot be as on top of your team abroad as you can in the UK, so you need a team you trust and preferably have worked with in the past,” he adds.

Saks India

Toni&Guy Paris

“Education is key to ensuring brand continuity”

UNITE® PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM +44 (0�8450340770 UNITEHAIR.CO.UK

UNITE® PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM +44 (0�8450340770 UNITEHAIR.CO.UK

Different class Help your clients enjoy the finer things in life – like beautiful hair – with U LUXURY from UNITE

THE WARM EMBRACE of cashmere, the soft caress of silk… sometimes we all need a little luxury in our lives, and that’s precisely why fashion-fabulous hair brand UNITE has created U LUXURY. The U LUXURY collection is a premium line of professional products developed specifically to reconstruct hair and deliver a truly luxurious experience. By harnessing the potent healing benefits of argan oil, the U LUXURY collection revives damaged strands, leaving your clients with soft, smooth, healthy-looking hair.

It’s a capsule collection that is ever-evolving, with two new excellent essentials added to the range. U LUXURY Intense Mask is a powerful yet pampering treatment that includes amber extract in its formulation – an intensive antioxidant that repairs, protects and strengthens hair. Fused with a nourishing blend of crushed pearl, Hawaiian white honey and argan oil, and you have a sumptuous soufflé that conditions hair so it radiates health.

That healthy, glossy finish is one that you want clients to protect, which is why the new U LUXURY Color Protectant Hair Perfume is the perfect full stop to their style! There are two signature fragrances to choose from, both named after UNITE’s founder, Andrew Dale and his wife’s daughters. Bianca contains citrus notes for a fresh fragrance, while Alanna is a more sophisticated floral

scent. With sunflower seed extract to act as a UV protector and prolong the life of hair colour. Color Protectant usage also minimises the need to wash hair, which in turn extends the life of your client’s colour. And, like all of UNITE’s products, it’s completely sulphate and parabenfree. While it shields hair from the sun’s harmful UV rays – protecting colour and condition in equal measure – it does so in the most luxurious way, enveloping the hair in a mist of aromatic, sensual perfume that will thrill clients… and anyone who gets close to them!

This dynamic duo joins a line-up of impressive and luxurious products that help deliver a five-star experience every time your client takes a seat in your salon. The shampoo and conditioner help lock-in nutrients and replenish the hair with what it needs to look full of body and with diamond-grade shine. Add to these the D FRIZZ and Oil, and you can promise clients glossy, beautiful hair with incredible volume that’s free of frizz.

U LUXURY has already charmed beauty editors – Grazia loves U LUXURY’s Moisture & Shine Cream – and now consumers who crave a clear conscience and a little luxury are falling for this exceptional range from UNITE. These products are premium, professional and free from sulphates, parabens, gluten, sodium chloride, DEA and MEA – they’re certified by PETA and not tested on animals.

LIVE IN THE LAP OF U LUXURY FROM UNITE, CALL 0845 034 0770 OR VISIT WWW.UNITEHAIR.CO.UK

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Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

PREP

SALON ER DILEMMAS

Q.

TT’s PRESCRIPTION

A common problem for clients is a build-up on the hair caused by styling lotions and potions. This can cause all kinds of knock-on effects, but crucially the hair looks greasy and lifeless.

But heavy stripping with harsh shampoos and aggressive rubbing isn’t an ideal solution for good hair karma!

A.

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Take-out salon tip: Recommend Aqua Splash to clients for their summer holidays. Ideal for surf, swim and spa!

SALON HAIR DILEMMAS

SOLVED!

S ’ R E Z E E T E L TANG

LIENTS C R U O Y R O F S ESULT R L A N IO S S E F O R P

PREEN

TT’s PRESCRIPTION

A.

SALON ER DILEMMAS

Q.

There’s a problem with stylists overrunning appointments due to fighting

and trying to detangle long hair and extensions when styling. How can this

Salon Elite is your hair’s new BFF for this tricky situation. problem be speedily brushed away?

The secret is simple, use not only inbut , ing styl before or after e each between too. During styling, detangl M PW_ aW]Z KTQMV\ _QTT ÅVL \PM W\QK L V [MK\QWV JMNWZM JTW_̉LZaQVO IV []XMZ JTW_̉LZa JZ][P )VL aW] _QTT ÅVL Q\ ÆM`QVO WN \PM \MM\P TM[[ XIQVN]T \PIV I I [ QV I JZMMbM \W ][M \MM\P OTQLM W^MZ JWVL Y]QKS 7V M`\MV[QWV[ ;ITWV -TQ\M Q[ \MZ Z[MTN _PQbbQVO \PZW]OP I JTW_̉LZa )N 6M_ AWZS UQV]\M )VL aW]¼TT ÅVL aW]

QVM W\P K]\QKTM[ IVL ILL [P [\aTQVO ][M I[ I ÅVQ[PQVO \WWT \W [UW Take-out salon tip: Advise your client to use Salon Elite along with their styling tools when doing their home blow-out.

POLISH

+ SALON ER DILEMMAS

Q.

e, but when A client shows me a funky beehiv k-combing, I explain it needs heavy duty bac hairmare to they shy away saying it will be a es. brush out and to recreate themselv Any suggestions?

ER

TT’s PRESCRIPTION

’S R E Z E E T E L G TAN FITS SALON BENE

fessional salon retail.

+ Complements your existing pro

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+ Adds the feel-good factor fro styling station.

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+ Reduces unnecessar y waste cond

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w a stylist down. Using Problematic hair can slo sures hair raising situations en Tangle Teezer for these nist creatively – your receptio your time is spent more it too! will thank you for using

A.

0I^MV¼\ aW] PMIZL JIKS̉JZ][PQVO Q[ \PM VM_ JIKS̉KWUJQVO' +WUXIK\ ;\aTMZ IKPQM^M[ LQ[PM^MTTML KPQK _Q\P IVa PIQZ \aXM Ja ^WT] UQbQVO TIZOMZ [MK\QWV[ of hair from a light, loose root to a style that’s UWZM Å`ML ;QUXTa _WZS \PM \MM \P QV\W \PM ZWW\[ WN \PM KZW_V NWZ PW\̉ZQOP\̉VW_ \M`\ ]ZM IVL PMQOP\ )T\MZVI\Q^MTa »XW[P OZ]VOM¼ \PM M VL[ Ja XW[Q\QWVQVO Compact Styler three quarters of the way down the hair shaft and push back from the roots.

Take-out salon tip: Modern back-brushing needs touching up on-the-go.

Tell clients to pop Compact Styler in their purse to softly punk up their hair!

Telephone: 020 7274 6128 www.tangleteezer.com

@tangleteezer

tangle teezer

Show time!

This September, Paul Mitchell encourages you to aim high and achieve the impossible, at the I’MPOSSIBLE MAINSTAGE show

WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING to broaden your cut and colour skills or want to find out how you can make the most of business opportunities, Paul Mitchell reveals how it’s all possible with its I’MPOSSIBLE MAINSTAGE shows and workshops, brought to you by the brand’s UK Artistic Education Team and Paul Mitchell educators from across the pond.

The one-day show heads to the Lowry Theatre in Manchester on 2 September and then to the Novotel London West in Hammersmith on 8 September, and tickets are a bargain at just £99+VAT per person.

First, guests will join Salon Success managing director Simon Tickler, and Archie Reilly, director of European sales for Salon Success, as they provide you with the business strategies for the countdown to Christmas. Focusing on

T H E

preparing your business for the most important revenuegenerating months of the year, discover how to grow guest loyalty, increase your stylists’ care factor and plan not just for the last-minute shoppers, but for those who like to plan ahead and buy early. Attendees can then choose any two of four workshops (below), before the I’MPOSSIBLE MAINSTAGE event, but be aware that spaces are limited – so pre-booking is a must! Then it’s time for the main event.

Featuring Colin Caruso, Sam Burns, Lucie Doughty, the UK Artistic Education Team, Paul Mitchell international trainer Heather Kaanoi and led by artistic director for Paul Mitchell, Stephanie Kocielski, this show-stopper will take you on an adventure in cut, colour, style and male grooming. Don’t miss out on all this education and creative inspiration, book your place today!

F A N T A S T I C

s The Next Generation, with Colin Caruso Accelerate to the future generation of hair colour with salon owner and Paul Mitchell international trainer, Colin Caruso. Featuring new Paul Mitchell colour shades Shines XG, discover how the new XG DYESMART technology will help you to create beautiful results.

s Session Style, with Lucie Doughty As editorial director for Paul Mitchell, Lucie Doughty is as at home behind the chair in the salon as she is styling celebrities and creating inspiring editorial spreads.

In this workshop, she shares her session styling secrets to help you achieve cameraready styles in your salon.

s MANnerisms, with Sam Burns Have you perfected your ‘GUYalogue’ skills to entice your male guests not only into your salon chair, but also into upgrades at the colour bar, backwash and reception? Discover how to mind your MANnerisms with dialogue expert and Paul Mitchell international trainer, Sam Burns.

F O U R s The Cut, with Carlo Cardinale, Pep Pasqualino and Rocco Tizzano Join Paul Mitchell UK Artistic Education Team members Carlo, Pep and Rocco for an artistic, fun-filled creative journey in haircutting, inspired by London street trends.

TO BOOK YOUR PLACE IN EITHER LONDON OR MANCHESTER THIS SEPTEMBER AS WELL AS YOUR CHOSEN WORKSHOPS AND A SEAT FOR THE SHOW, CALL 0845 6590 011 OR VISIT WWW.SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK

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Creative HEAD

Promotion

BUZZ THE MOST WANTED AND IT LIST GRAND FINAL Monday 2 September

Natural History Museum London SW7 5BD Tickets £210 Tables of ten £1,900 All food, drinks and entertainment included

BOOK NOW! Call 01434 610940 Creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Creativeheadmag.com/theitlist

Hosted by award-winning Brit-hot comic, Russell Kane

COLOUR INSIDER

Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

Nurture your colour Get a little summer hair inspiration with new Nectaya shades from Goldwell

GOLDWELL CELEBRATES COLOUR GRADUATES The latest graduates from Goldwell’s Colour Expert course have celebrated becoming expert colourists at the new Academy London. Rachel Hurley, Goldwell’s Academy manager and previous Colour Expert graduate, presented the diplomas to the graduates, who were (pictured above, from left to right): Danielle Pinto of M&ARC in Peterborough; Charlotte Pound of Creative Hairdressing in Tetbury; Kataliu Puppau of Russell Navarro in Oxford; Andreea Lupu of Rosh in London; Emma Masters of Tai Hair & Beauty in Hove; and Dominic Lucas of Lucas Hair in West Malling. Colour Expert is an exclusive 12-day course and provides all the technical and business skills needed to run a successful salon. The next course commences 15 July.

LIGHTEN UP

THE LATEST NEWS, EVENTS AND PRODUCT INNOVATIONS FROM GOLDWELL

SAY FAREWELL TO FINE HAIR

Of all the things a client wishes for, more volume is normally top of the list. The solution is Dualsenses Ultra Volume from Goldwell, which provides 35 per cent more volume and makes hair look as good as it feels. This newly upgraded salon-exclusive range offers powerful volume from the root, as well as giving targeted care where it’s needed most – through the lengths and ends.

The combination of volume and care is achieved through the use of its SmartBoostComplex. This works in two ways; first by strengthening hair from the roots, and second by providing the right amount of moisture without weighing hair down. After one use, hair has an all-new shine, suppleness and elasticity.

GOLDWELL ADDS SHADES TO ITS NECTAYA RANGE Goldwell has introduced four new shades and three mix shades into its Nectaya colour portfolio for even more creative options. The ammonia-free colour service is super-nurturing and comes with a guarantee of healthier hair.

Six years in the making, Nectaya has been researched by Goldwell’s team of 2,000 scientists. Containing Goldwell’s signature IntraLipid Technology, which replenishes lost lipids while colouring, the colour service is enriched with intensely conditioning argan oil for smooth, luxurious hair.

COLOUR INSIDER

Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

Mark Leeson for Goldwell

LUXE APPEAL

To celebrate the launch of the new Nectaya shades by Goldwell, awardwinning hairdresser Mark Leeson has created a collection inspired by classic high-end fashion campaigns using the new Nectaya colours. “As Nectaya is a luxury colour service, I wanted to capture the essence of luxe style and drew inspiration from definitive Prada campaigns.” Turn the page to see more of the collection.

DEFY GRAVITY

Defying gravity is now possible with StyleSign Naturally Full by Goldwell. Designed to provide hair with never-before-seen volume, StyleSign Naturally Full spray can be used in three ways: styling, finishing and blow-drying. The spray offers a totally new definition of hold by ensuring hair has beautiful movement without ever being sticky.

Its secret weapon? Advanced Support Technology. Straight after it has been sprayed into the hair, the self-adhesive micro-particles within the product build a flexible and invisible support net, wrapping around each individual strand. The result is clear: a full, soft look with consistent hold.

La dolce vita Inspired by classic fashion campaigns of the ’90s and ’00s, this collection from Mark Leeson epitomises the new Nectaya shades from Goldwell – elegant, refined and unforgettable

COLOUR INSIDER

MARK LEESON

TA GE -THE K D O N I O G H L BE NES AKIN T A E M SC THE OOT om H ag.c O S T IN HIS adm T e OF tiveh a e Cr

HAIR: MARK LEESON FOR GOLDWELL. PHOTOGRAPHY: JENNI HARE. STYLING: DESIREE LEDERER AND MAKE-UP: CLARE READ

“This collection was created to showcase the new Nectaya colour shades. The colours are muted yet expensive and the lighting and photography style project a classically beautiful feel”

Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

HOME SWEET HOME As Goldwell and KMS California move into their new Academy in the centre of London, we look at what’s new and what’s not-to-be-missed SHAFTESBURY AVENUE – the heart of London’s West End theatre district, a popular film location and close to London’s Chinatown – and now the new home of the Academy London.

Located on the ground floor at 130 Shaftesbury Avenue and with easy access to Leicester Square tube station, the Academy London is spacious, contemporary and buzzing with activity.

Industrial chic is combined with luxury – look up and you see a concrete ceiling hung with oversized air

conditioning, look down and you see wood floors leading you to chic backwashes and colour bars.

Aiming to support and inspire hairdressers throughout their career, the Academy London is split into three separate salon areas: two for Goldwell colour and inspirational courses and one for KMS California cutting and styling courses. There are also two classrooms used for business courses and theory training that can be opened into one large event space. Finally, there is a lounge space where course attendees can relax, eat lunch or enjoy a cappuccino.

Creative HEAD Promotion

COLOUR INSIDER

Promotion

“The opening of our new Academy London is a major landmark in the evolution of the Goldwell and KMS California brands.

We wanted to make a statement to the industry and I truly believe we have achieved that and exceeded expectations” NICHOLAS WOOD, PRESIDENT OF GOLDWELL AND KMS CALIFORNIA, UK & IRELAND

THE COURSES YOU JUST CAN’T MISS MARK LEESON – COUTURE COLOURING & CUTTING Mark Leeson reveals his winning techniques for colour and cutting, giving a couture edge in this one-day workshop.

He will work with colour techniques such as threading, shadowing and splash.

WHEN 9 September COST £220 or 1,470 Goldwell points NEIL BARTON – ON THE EDGE COLOURING & CUTTING Edinburgh-based, awardwinning salon owner Neil will

encourage you to explore the dimensions of hair using new techniques, offering ideas for contemporary styles.

WHEN 23 September COST £170 or 1,335 Goldwell points BEVERLY C – TREND INSPIRATIONS COLOUR & CUT Beverly C focuses on inspiring education with the most current looks in this one-day seminar, working on suitability, age group, face shapes and what’s hot.

WHEN 7 October COST £220 or 1,470 Goldwell points

SHANE BENNETT – ICONIC COLOUR & CUT Hairdresser Shane hosts this consumer-led course, taking classic techniques and making them more commercial.

WHEN 11 November COST £170 or 1,335 Goldwell points LISA WHITEMAN – LONDON STYLE COLOUR & CUTTING Award-winning Mayfair salon owner Lisa will share her ideas and experience from her salon and photoshoot work.

WHEN 18 November COST £170 or 1,335 Goldwell points

WANT TO KNOW MORE? CALL THE ACADEMY TODAY ON 020 3540 1200 OR VISIT FACEBOOK.COM/GOLDWELLUK

Creative HEAD Promotion Promotion

INSIDER COLOUR

Tame that frizz!

Fight clients’ frizz with Tamefrizz by KMS California. It instantly reduces frizz up to 100 per cent and controls humidity for up to three days. Don’t believe us? Read on to see what beauty bloggers have to say about it…

“Since using Tamefrizz my hair has been so much more manageable and I’m definitely going to carry on using these products” UN-OBSERVED.COM

“I love the Tamefrizz range.

My favourite product has to be the DeFrizz Oil; it’s lovely to apply, non-greasy and it makes my hair feel nourished and smooth” MISS-HOLLY.COM

“Tamefrizz promised three days without frizz – it’s day three and I have no frizz. What can I tell you? Bottom line is that it delivers on its promise” BRITISHBEAUTYBLOGGER.COM

“I believe this is a fabulous range of products that really deliver. I’d recommend the Tamefrizz range to anyone who has an issue with frizzy, troublesome hair” MISSMAKEUPMAGPIE.CO.UK

TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT KMS CALIFORNIA, CALL 01323 413200 OR VISIT WWW.KMSCALIFORNIA.COM. FIND THE LATEST NEWS AT FACEBOOK.COM/KMSCALIFORNIAUK

EXCITEMENT THE MOST WANTED AND IT LIST GRAND FINAL Monday 2 September

Natural History Museum London SW7 5BD Tickets £210 Tables of ten £1,900 All food, drinks and entertainment included

BOOK NOW! Call 01434 610940 Creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Creativeheadmag.com/theitlist

Hosted by award-winning Brit-hot comic, Russell Kane

Explore the world of Nectaya.

NURTURING HAIR COLOUR

AMMONIA-FREE Q

IntraLipidTM technology to replenish lost lipids within the hair, effectively repairing each strand

Q

Up to 91% ingredients of natural origin1

Q

Enriched with deep conditioning Argan Oil

Q

Up to 100% grey coverage

Q

Delicate fragrance, luxurious cream consistency

Q

Exclusive service experience

4B havana brown

10BG beige gold

rr-mix / red-mix

gg-mix / gold-mix

8BA smoky beige mid

6K copper brilliant p-mix / pearl-mix

4 New Shades plus 3 Mix Shades for enhanced creativity

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Manage your hair salon with the NEW Casio EPoS Solution Android is a technology we are all used to when it comes to smartphones, the platform controls roughly half of the UK market. But what if we take this reliance on smart technology to organise our business, as well as our personal lives?

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ling w e y t s e h t “ Fo r very th ing e p e e k o ot w a nted t e so a s n it h w d n a c risp the ha ir ” m o r f t c a to d etr

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N TOOK INSPIRATIO FROM OUR LOVE , OF ARCHITECTURE IN PARTICULAR THE SHARD WITH ITS STRONG D JAGGED SHAPE AN THE WAY LIGHT REFLECTS OFF THE GLASS. WE THEN COMBINED THIS WITH THE

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Creative HEAD 119

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Pop art Pairing a neon pop with neutral hues, the latest collection from CHARLES WORTHINGTON SALONS turns the season’s fascination with fluoro into a wearable style Photography ANDREW O’TOOLE

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A year of CREATIVE HEAD for £25* AVAILABLE NOW AT Creativeheadmag.com/subscribetochuk SUBSCRIPTIONS HOTLINE 01434 610935 *SUBSCRIPTION TERMS AND CONDITIONS The £25 subscription offer is valid for UK subscriptions only. Free gift changes monthly (see latest issue of Creative HEAD or visit www.creativeheadmag.com/ subscribetochuk for details of current offer) and is available while stocks last. Image shown is for illustration purposes only, actual gift may vary from that shown. Prize draw changes monthly. Free gift and prize draw will relate to the month in which the subscription is received. To enter the prize draw with an equal chance of winning without subscribing, send your name, address and telephone number either by email to: prizedraw@ headmag.co.uk or on a postcard to: Creative HEAD Subscriptions, Mallan House, Bridge End, Hexham, Northumberland NE46 4DQ. Entries to arrive no later than the 7th day of the following month. The prize draw is open to residents of the UK aged 16 and over. No purchase is necessary for entry into the prize draw. Winners will be drawn at random and notified by post. A list of winners will be available upon request. Subscriber and prize draw winners’ details will be shared with the gift provider in order for the offer to be fulfilled, and subscribers and prize draw winners may be contacted by the provider to confirm receipt. Online subscriptions will be automatically renewed after 12 months, unless otherwise instructed by the subscriber. Subscribers will be notified of any increase to the subscription fee before payment is taken. For overseas rates (free gift and prize draw not applicable) please visit www.creativeheadmag.com/subscribetochuk or call 0044 1434 610935. **Based on RRP at time of press.

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THE LAST WORD

All abroad!

Turning your brand into a global sensation is a careful balancing act, warns Alterna global creative director, MICHAEL SHAUN CORBY

HAVING WORKED as a global platform artist and creative director for Alterna Haircare since it was founded in the US in the ’90s, I’ve found the recipe for international success comes from achieving a balance between embracing local ‘-isms’, while being quick to respond to global trends. Three key factors are instrumental to this – team, education and innovation.

We’ve found that the key to replicating success in other countries without any corporate presence is to activate international teams in important markets, such as Europe. What that means is being on the ground to listen, understand and react to local needs. This has resulted in a large percentage of our business coming from international markets.

Continued investment in education is vital to success, but having academies in different markets can be hugely expensive. One cost-effective way is to align with reputable partners, from distributors to affiliate salons.

This has allowed us to deliver our global education in state-of-the-art venues, while bringing inspiration from domestic talent creates excitement among salons and retailers.

Working with these local partners over the years,

I’ve become increasingly aware of the different ways people think about haircare. For example, in Asia, I was amazed to discover how much importance is put on hair and scalp health, while in the US it’s a more cosmetic approach and in Europe a focus on treatments. In understanding this, I’ve been able to tailor our style of education according to stylist and consumer needs.

In a sea of brands, innovation will help you stand out from your competitors. Being part of a company that thrives on the next breakthrough and not one that is focused on what is currently ‘on trend’ is key to evolving and growing internationally.

When Katie Holmes became co-owner and the face of our brand, her global presence helped to announce our consistent credibility worldwide, inspiring salons, retail partners and consumers alike.

Whether you’re an educator, platform artist, session stylist, salon owner or brand manager, understanding and striking the right balance between global versus local needs sets strong foundations for international success.

Michael Shaun Corby is global creative director for Alterna.

Want to have your say? Email Amanda@headmag.co.uk

Creative HEAD 130

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