Creative HEAD October 2013

ÂŁ4.50 October 2013

In print l online l everywhere!

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October 2013 creativeheadmag.com

The ideas bank Small change, big profit

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18/9/13 12:53:21

The age of steam

Let off some steam and create beautifully smooth hair with L’Oréal Professionnel and Rowenta Salon’s first ever steam-powered styling tool, the Steampod

Five reasons to love the Steampod range 1 Beautifully smooth-looking, shiny results 2 Improved hair manageability and texture 3 Suitable for all hair types 4 Enriched with Pro-keratin to leave hair soft to touch 5 Anti-frizz smoothing effect for up to three days* *Instrumental test. When used with replenishing cream for normal to slightly sensitised hair

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Turn over to discover the luxury of steam power‌ p2_IFC+8pp Section_L'Oreal Promo_GW5.indd 3

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Designed to impress After five years of research and eight patents pending, the L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod is all you’d want and more…

l Adjustable

temperature settings: from 170˚C to 210˚C to vary heat according to level of hair sensitivity

l Removable

l Anodised plates:

l Floating plates:

for an ultra-smooth contact surface

to allow application of gentle pressure

smoothing comb: spreads hair evenly for more uniform results

l Continuous

steam pressure: for a beautiful, glossy finish

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It’s all in the preparation The L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod and Steampod Pro-keratin care products mean hair that feels smooth, soft and, above all, protected The Steampod provides optimum results when used in conjunction with the corresponding prep creams.

These creams can provide: ● Up to three days of frizz-free hair* ● Pro keratin-enriched softer-feeling hair ● Heat protection

STEP 1 Protect hair from heat, smooth the look of hair and replenish shine with Steampod Replenishing Smoothing Cream for either natural/ sensitive hair or for medium/very sensitive hair.

STEP 2 Finish with the steam-activated Steampod Protective Smoothing Serum, which uses the power of steam to smooth and seal hair fibres.

*Instrumental test. When used with replenishing cream for normal to slightly sensitised hair

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Perfect for your salon…

The L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod is your new in-salon moneymaker!

“The Steampod has given me a unique opportunity to introduce new in-salon services, which can make each client’s visit more profitable and more frequent” Guy Kremer, Guy Kremer Salon

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How can L’Oréal Professionnel’s Steampod help grow your salon business? Easily! Steampod is perfect for enhancing blow-dry appointments, adding new services and boosting retail opportunities. It’s an ideal tool for junior team members to work with as a way of helping them grow in confidence and build their client base. And the best news is that it can be used on every hair type, so it really is a service that all clients can try.

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WHAT THE CONSUMERS THINK...

“It’s easy to use and my hair feels so soft and frizz-free”

“The L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod does exactly what it promises! My hair looks like it’s salon-styled”

“I’ve tried many straighteners before and in my opinion, this one is amazing”

…and perfect for your client CLIENTS WILL SPEND a small fortune trying to recreate that just-walked-out-of-the-salon look at home, which is why L’Oréal Professionnel has made an at-home version of the Steampod.

Available in a more compact form, the Steampod is the perfect retail tool for your salons as once your clients have been treated to an in-salon Steampod service, they’ll be begging to take it home with them!

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Tickled pink!

Clients will be dreaming of a pink Christmas thanks to this Limited Edition Diamond Attraction Steampod JUST WHEN YOU THINK your clients couldn’t possibly need any more reasons to invest in a L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod, along comes a pink one! Created just in time for Christmas, the Limited Edition Diamond Attraction Steampod retains all the qualities and characteristics of the sleek-looking black version, but in pink. And not just some wimpy baby pink, oh no – this is hot, hot hot! Available in a gorgeous pink and black gift box, it’s guaranteed to make every girl’s (and guy’s) Christmas.

SEE IT Watch the Steampod at work youtube.com/lorealprofessionnel

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“After my Steampod service, my hair was soft, bouncy and had great movement.

Hair isn’t ironed super flat so it looks and feels more natural”

“Steampod is great for all hair types, even damaged hair as it won’t wreak havoc on already frazzled locks” BRITISH BEAUTY BLOGGER

AFRO BOUDOIR

Everyone’s talking about…

Beauty pros give their verdict on the L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod

“Steampod seals in moisture and leaves hair looking exceptionally shiny. The finished result is incredibly smooth hair that feels silky and still has movement” LONDON BEAUTY QUEEN

Get L’Oréal Professionnel’s Steampod into your salon now.

Ask your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

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16/9/13 10:57:34

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM LOOKS

HAIR

NEWS

R U N WAY

BLOGS

EVENTS

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COMPETITIONS

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WIN IT

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Want to save money and transform your salon with LED lights? Enter our competition with LED Hut! 04/09/2013 13:33

CATCH IT

Hair by Pascal Del Natale

Popping up in October, an online happening with luxe styling brand UNITE

ADORE IT Breathtaking photographic collections from stylists around the globe

Creative HEAD magazine

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WATCH IT Couldn’t score a ticket to The It List and Most Wanted Grand Final?

Then see our films!

@creativeheadmag

20/9/13 13:47:38

YOUR SMOOTHER SIDE

DISCOVER LONG LASTING FRIZZ-FREE HAIR

FIND OUT MORE ON: 0208 441 9923 info@nanokeratinsystem.co.uk, www.nanokeratinsystem.co.uk Find out more on FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/nanokeratinUK

Find out more on TWITTER www.twitter.com/@nanokeratinuk

NEW

Editor’s letter

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78

SEE IT Watch movies from the Most Wanted and It List Awards creativeheadmag.com/events

hello...

JOIN US! As this issue went to press, we were hot-footing it to Leeds for The Coterie’s first ever pop-up. Head online for all the gossip from this talent-crammed out-of-town meeting! If you’re a member, book 28 October in your diary for a special online gathering – we’ll have vogue.co.uk and neverunderdressed.com in the house! And finally, check out all the stars and style in our special Most Wanted and It List Grand Final supplement, slipped inside this issue. It’s a fabulous feast for your eyes – a magnificent summing up of the spirit of the night.

Grab some popcorn and head online to watch the movies, too!

THE BEST THINGS in life might be free, but we all know money talks – and with our guide on how to make, save and spend money this issue, it’s a good time to listen. It doesn’t always take an overhaul to start reaping the rewards – canny salon owners will tell you that a few small but important changes can make an enormous difference, and fill you with confidence in the business you have created. Positive change will mean a more positive attitude in the salon from your team, which is bound to help put a smile on clients’ faces, too! We know that the recession has been tough for many, but we’ve been cheered by the tales of profit-boosting innovations and ideas that have come flooding into Creative HEAD HQ, many spurred on by the economic challenges faced. Hopefully our guide will inspire you to get innovative with those pounds and pennies and introduce an effective idea that will boost your bottom line!

Amanda Nottage Editor

Want to know what else we’re up to? creativeheadmag.com/events

amanda@headmag.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine 6

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@creativeheadmag

Creative HEAD Magazine App

CREATIVE HEAD

17/9/13 12:59:49

Hair by L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2013 Winner Brooks & Brooks, London

C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S

F R O M

L ’ O R É A L

P R O F E S S I O N N E L

M .

L E LAB

Y L N O E H T IS

label.m Professional Haircare is joining forces with London Fashion Week from September 2013!

The exclusive collaboration means that the range originally launched in 2005 will feature the official London Fashion Week logo on all its packaging and is the first time that London Fashion Week has allowed its name to be used to endorse a haircare line in this way.

The global initiative provides an innovative platform that showcases the international reach of both TONI&GUY and label.m to new audiences across 41 countries and with British fashion worth ÂŁ21 billion to the UK economy, a percentage of retail profit from the sale of each label.m branded product will go back to the British Fashion Council who run London Fashion Week, to help support future growth that enables the nurturing of British design talent.

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06/09/2013 12:45

S R E N G I S E D H S I T I BR

G N I T R SUPPO

The London Fashion Week label.m professional haircare range will launch with selected products from September 2013 at London Fashion Week and will be available at all specially appointed label.m, TONI&GUY and essensuals salons with a global roll out from 2014.

/labelmUK

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@ labelmUK

/labelmUK

/labelm

06/09/2013 12:50

October

WHAT’S INSIDE 58

MONEY TALKS

36

Hair experts such as Adam Reed reveal how to make it, save it and spend it!

SCENE

In print ● online ● everywhere! £4.50 OCTOBER 2013

Paul Mitchell celebrates and Toni&Guy gets festival fever

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OCTOBER 2013 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

The ideas bank

GODS AND MORTALS

Small change, big profit

ON THE COVER L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod

Apheleia by Trevor Sorbie Salons showcases the power of simplicity

108 EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE

FEATURE WRITER BETH DAVIE

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

ONLINE EDITOR AMY WOOD

ADVERTISING MANAGER BEN BALDOCK

ART GRAEME WHITE

CONTRIBUTOR LAUREN MARGRAVE

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE DAVID HAMMOND

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR PUBLISHER HEATHER DAY CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT:

creativeheadmag.com 10

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Creative HEAD Magazine

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk

@creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD

20/9/13 15:25:14

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* Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo

body & volume moisture & shine • Strengthen hair, making it nearly 3x more resistant to breaking* • Define & separate • Add

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04-09-13 16:23

The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

SALONS KEEP HIGH STREET ALIVE RESEARCH FROM the Local Data Company and the British Independent Retailers Association has revealed that service-sector operators such as salons are keeping the high street alive by taking over empty shop space.

The findings were backed by Hilary Hall, chief executive of the National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF), who was not surprised there had been a significant growth of service businesses moving in to ‘fill the gaps’ on high streets as they were services that could not be carried out online.

She said: “Hairdressing salons have long been the backbone of the UK’s high streets and with barber shops becoming increasingly trendy, we are also seeing growth there, along with nail bars and other beauty services.”

This statement was reiterated by the Grimsey Review, which was released in September following a three-month investigation of Britain’s high streets by author and retailer Bill Grimsey. The report stated that with 20,000 independent retailers on the brink of collapse, technical innovation and a radical overhaul of ‘ugly’ town centres were the only solutions.

DID YOU KN OW?

Affinage is one of the official sponsors of the first NHF Welsh Hairdresser of the Year awards, which take place on 20 October in Cardiff

CREATIVE HEAD

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Psst…

Caroline with Paris Hilton

Umberto Giannini is unveiling its Dry Bar in Selfridges Birmingham.

The walk-in express styling bar lets clients choose from a selection of big blow-outs and catwalk looks that can be completed in 30 minutes or less.

Scent Stateside THE SWEET SMELL of success!

As part of Herra’s launch into the US, head of social media, Caroline Simionescu-Marin, ventured backstage at New York Fashion Week to showcase Herra Protect Hair Perfume to fashionistas and celebrities. And with Jamie Stevens on board as global brand endorser, too, who knows what’s next for Herra?

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20/9/13 13:48:46

BREAST CANCER AWA R E N E S S M O N TH

SEEING PINK

IT’S GETTING PERSONAL

How about this for initiative – Paul Edmonds has launched MyPE on the new pauledmonds.com e-commerce site. It aims to be a personal portal for clients to use pre- and post-appointments, where they can log in to view their appointment history, products purchased and product recommendations, as well as an online booking form. Beautifully bespoke, we love the tailored approach.

Styling brand ghd is running a competition to win a diamond worth £3,600! Using the tag #ghdpinkdiamond, clients must share a photo on Instagram of them with a fake diamond in salon. One fan will be picked at random after 31 October and scoop a 0.65 carat pink, brilliant-cut round diamond!

Straight from London Fashion Week GET YOUR STYLISTS READY – THESE ARE OUR PICKS OF THE TRENDS TO KNOW FOR S/S14

SALONLITE UNVEILS SALONLITE PRO Images courtesy of KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel and Toni&Guy

Internet-based Salonlite has launched Salonlite Pro, from Premier Software. All users have been upgraded to a 30day trial of the Pro version, which features point of sale, appointments, stock control and advanced reporting.

The show: Ashish The look: Playful colour Ali Pirzadeh had fun with new L’Oréal Professionnel HAIRchalk, creating stripes aplenty. It’s about commitment-free shades that don’t rub off!

The show: Fyodor Golan The look: Dual texture This hair has a split personality. A slicked-back front is countered with dry waves at the back, created

by Bleach’s Alex Brownsell for KMS California.

The show: Giles The look: Side braids It’s the braid, but not as you know it! Toni&Guy’s chunky, almost dreadlockknotted side braids have lots of natural texture and flyways – a sure-fire hit.

WATCH IT! Beautiful models. Bad jokes. See the movie now! creativeheadmag.com

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❤ WE LO V E

Forget BB Cream – it’s all about CC now! Trust Alterna to think of this clever innovation for locks – the CC Cream Leave-In Hair Perfector. Genius!

LAST CHANCE Enter our Alterna Caviar Repairx giveaway creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD

20/9/13 13:46:18

#CHedit

340%

The biggest individual salon’s increase in sales following the implementation of MOT, the Matrix Retail Programme. This was experienced by Taylors of Garforth who, prior to MOT, was selling 20 products in a 21-day period. Thanks to MOT, this grew to 68 products in a 21-day period. The MOT Programme focuses on three areas: merchandising, consultation and product knowledge.

London-based Ena Salon is running a free circuit training and boxing class every Wednesday and Friday morning with a trainer.

It’s open to all the team – the salon’s found it a great way to build team camaraderie – and everyone loves the breakfast afterwards!

What does October have in store for…

KATYA DAVIES

Ena Salon’s Alexis Albouhair (left) and Woody Pong (right) with trainer Ryan Li

BO XI NG CL EV ER

MY month AHEAD

MYLA AND DAVIS

I’m still reeling from the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final, where I won the It List ENTREPRENEUR award! We are now forging ahead with opening our second London salon in East Dulwich.

We are then shooting with Lena Emery, a photographer we admire.

DANIEL K NEAVES DKN

Malachi McSheen with AJ Blackadder

I need a hero!

Headmasters has revealed its Colour Heroes for 2013, with Malachi McSheen from Headmasters Hammersmith named overall Judges Choice winner. Judges included AJ Blackadder, group technical director at Andrew Barton.

I have just spent an amazing weekend in Slovakia hosting a three-day seminar with Affinage as part of the new Infiniti and Colour Dynamics launch.

Wednesdays through Saturdays I’ll be in the salon and we have a businesscoaching day where we’ll discuss plans to run pop-up salons next year.

ANGELO VALLILLO ZULLO & HOLLAND

LOVE THY NEIGHBOUR

FASHION LABEL The Fold London has taken residency on Easton Regal Hairdressing’s lower ground floor. The label offers office-to-evening pieces and is a popular brand with the salon’s clientele. “From a business point of view it was great to rent out a space we are currently not using, helping to increase revenue,” said salon owners, Bryn Wilkins and James Kinnear. “Our clients love the concept of shopping while their colour is developing or having a one-on-one consultation with The Fold team.”

CREATIVE HEAD

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Get on set

Johnnie Sapong (pictured) and Ayo Laguda are launching The Set School, which shares the tricks of the trade for fashion shoots – thesetschool.com

It’s going to be a crazy month because something I’ve been working towards for more than two years happens: the Angelo Vallillo Academy opens on the top floor of the Zullo & Holland salon in Nottingham. I’m also doing five days of education for Sebastian Professional and I’m off to Barcelona for two solo shows.

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20/9/13 15:27:38

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View from the top Urban Retreat’s Marcus Allen on the arrival of Christmas at his salon When it comes to money matters, planning ahead is all-important. And since July we’ve been planning for Christmas. It’s without a doubt our busiest time of the year – and probably yours, too. Our first move was to review last year’s reports on bookings, staffing and how many clients we had to turn away. It used to be that the rush lasted for four glorious weeks, but now it’s condensed into two-and-ahalf weeks when things are really buzzing.

We’ve already had conversations with each of our 220 staff to determine if they can work extra hours, with a trade-off of more free time in January, when it’s quieter. We will be looking at how we can speed up the workflow without compromising standards and we’ll open an hour longer each night to 9pm. But you have to plan carefully. Squeezing everyone in is great for clients and turnover, but if you let standards and service slip, you may gain money shortterm and then lose the client in the long-term.

Retailing bundles of products is very lucrative at Christmas, but another big seller is vouchers,

and this year we are focusing on selling courses.

Every man’s dilemma at Christmas is what to get for his wife, girlfriend or sister. Why not a course of blow-drys or haircuts? Six-for-theprice-of-five offers, that sort of thing.

But you can’t be myopic and just look at Christmas, because once Santa’s been, business slows down dramatically. When the first week of the New Year arrives you can’t suddenly think: ‘Oh my God, things are so slow, let’s run a promotion.’ You must plan ahead to sell to clients from the last week of November into December. Christmas upsets the natural pattern of appointments so you need an impetus to get them back in. I’m not a fan of discounting but I do love added value, so we’ll bundle services together like a blow-dry with a manicure. We’ll let clients know what they can gain during January when they come in December and that’s how we reset their natural pattern.

Marcus Allen is group head of salon at Urban Retreat at Harrods in Knightsbridge, London

Want to ask Marcus a question? Tweet us @creativeheadmag

Rising star Name: Viktoria Toth Age: 26 Salon: HOB Salons Ruislip

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Why did you want to be a hairdresser?

All my family work in business so I went to university to study it but did a hair course at the same time. It gave me a good understanding of marketing, but there was no question, hair was what I wanted to do!

What have been your highlights so far?

I’m from Hungary, where I started session work, and after two years my team won the fashion category at the Sony World Photography Award. The final was in London and I fell in love with the city!

Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

HOB Salons is a great place to work, and I have plans to go through HOB Education. I’d love to get on the Creative Team, present on stage and travel the world!

What would be your dream hairdressing gig?

I love session work and working with musicians. If someone asked me to style Björk for a day, that would kill me!

Creative Head

16/9/13 10:59:20

#CHedit

MAKING A LITTLE GO A LONG WAY

LIFE

LESSONS

IT'S EASY TO SPEND MONEY, BUT USE WHAT YOU HAVE WISELY KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

I AM USED TO TELLING PEOPLE how to save money without compromising quality, but I thought I would take the opportunity to tell you how to spend money. Easy, I hear you say. The challenge, however, is to know how to spend wisely. Most of us cannot afford to invest hundreds of thousands of pounds into a salon. So, let’s look at the ‘must haves’ and the optionals: ● Your exterior should be professional and clearly branded, décor should be clean, simple and easy to refresh. ● A budget chair can often look as good as an expensive chair and both can be ruined just as quickly! ● An expensive chair may last longer but it’s affordable to replace a cheap one. ● Air conditioning is an expectation these days and is easier to install during a shop-fit than a retro-fit. A workstation or a retail stand generates income; an expensive sofa does not. ● A custom water heating system is essential. Buy from a specialist, not a general plumber. ● Lighting should be colour balanced, efficient and easy to maintain.

Although a point of sale system is not essential, it can help you to grow, monitor and market your business. Compare costs and buy only what you need. ● Products should be quality ones – but negotiate hard with your suppliers. ● Loyalty to a brand can bring benefits. ● Avoid high cost advertising unless you have a clear objective and have devised an advert that has a call to action and its effectiveness can be clearly monitored. ● Decide on a clear market strategy. Low cost or premium? You can’t deliver both. ● Keep investing in education for both you and your team. This is the only way to improve and grow. ● Spend time and money on analysing everything you do. If it doesn’t work then stop doing it. ● The more you do yourself, the less you have to pay someone else. ● Day-to-day book keeping is simple, you can do it; year-end accounts are not, pay an accountant.

And finally, never do something just because someone else is doing it. How do you know it’s working for them, and are they making any money? ●

MICHAEL VAN CLARKE

OWNER, MICHAEL VAN CLARKE, MARYLEBONE, LONDON There is no magic pill, not for health, wealth, happiness, or status.

Nothing is more seductive than reward without effort, particularly when it seems others are getting it.

Beware the opinions of others. People spout opinions as if they are true, when really it’s just their truth. I sought new role models and began to reprogramme my mind to achieve more success.

No one’s going to do it for you… only in fairy tales

Want to ask Ken a question? Tweet us @creativeheadmag or visit 365hair.com

£ WHERE TO £ £SPEND £ £ £

SPLURGE Custom water heating

Education

CREATIVE HEAD

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SAVE

Day-to-day book keeping

Budget chairs

do knights on white horses come along and make it all better. Not sure who did it for the guys though!

Never give up. Most people spend their lives starting things, giving up and starting something else. Mastery involves moving through difficulties and stagnation. If you can sit with the pain of going nowhere and stay open, a new insight will follow.

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20/9/13 14:34:55

#CHedit

Head to head

One hot topic; two hairdressing professionals debate the issue

ARE DISCOUNT WEBSITES SUCH AS GROUPON AND WOWCHER A VIABLE WAY TO BOOST SALON BUSINESS?

YES

HANNA H GORD ON, PAU L GORD “We li ve in a ON HAIR wo th

rld wh e salo n ere m ost pe or from is always a ople li good t people ke a g h websi ing, w w ho are ood de tes be hethe huntin al. Mo cause r it co They ney co g mes fr i out ba t bring act as ming om re rgains s in re a grea into spend g . ular c v W t e i e nue an ntrodu ’re inv on hai li ents d help cer, ge olved r. The the ta s begi in disc tting p disc sk nners eople the po of more exp ounts also w find th ount in wh ssibili ensive i d o wou eir fee en our ty of m direct While ldn’t n t marke any re mail o senior ormall . ting re peat b r adve s are c y qualifi a c h u r t y a – i p e s ed it save r ing. W able o s us f main s and the g e get e appoin hairdresse enera tainin xposu rs can tment t i g re, o b n s a e a slo this gi at £14 c o o f lu p lenty mn, g w ves ou with t of buz etting he opp process. W r begi reven z client e offer nners ortuni ue. We s for n . i c nvalu t u y brief o t t alway o a ewly n r able p d blow ebook ur sta s the c ractice -dry a ff to e hance as well t the same ngage a blow price – with c as brin -dry co and lients ging i uld tu and u n repe rn into p-sell at a mor t o o , e profi table a so there’s ppoin tment .”

NO

GARY H OOKER, HOOKER & YOUN “I und erstan G dw di

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TELL US WHAT YOU THINK – VOTE NOW AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM!

Got something to say?

Tweet us @creativeheadmag

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CREATIVE HEAD

16/9/13 11:04:50

WHAT’S YOUR LUXURY?

Discover the LUXURY of PROTECTION - all day, everyday.

HERRA PROTECT Hair Perfume www.herra.com

Salons embrace mobile apps

From having once had a reputation for being behind the technological times, hairdressing’s use of hightech marketing techniques is accelerating rapidly.

Salons are becoming much more proactive about trying out new mobile marketing methods, including exploring ways to drive loyalty and new business, including how they ‘mine’ or use customer data, according to app creators, marketing experts, digital industry commentators and owners themselves. One developer, Neale Graham, executive director of 2ergo, which develops mobile marketing systems, said: “Mobile is the next logical step for salons as they look to increase sales and generate repeat business and reward loyal customers.”

Headmasters

A judicial review is expected to take place this month into the government’s move this summer to introduce fees for bringing cases before an employment tribunal. The union Unison was given permission in July to seek a judicial review into the introduction of fees, which came into force from 29 July. Under the new regime, all new employment claims now require a fee to be paid by the claimant (normally the employee) ranging from £390 to £1,200, depending on the complexity, and split between ‘issue’ and ‘hearing’ fees. The aim of the change is to reduce ‘frivolous’ claims, though critics – including Unison – have argued it could have the effect of deterring employees on low wages from bringing a claim.

Graham Vidler

Union challenge to tribunal fees

Owners told: ‘start preparing for pensions revolution now’ Salon owners are being urged to start preparing now for the arrival of autoenrolment pensions in their sector, with some of the larger salon groups due to go live as early as next year. Nest, the UK’s new national pension scheme specifically geared towards auto-enrolment for smaller businesses, has urged salon owners not to push implementation to the bottom of their to-do lists. Larger salon groups – those that employ between 250 and 1,000 people – will need to start automatically enrolling staff onto a workplace pension scheme by 1 February 2014. The Pensions Regulator will start contacting the smallest salons, those with 30 or fewer staff, from next April with a view to implementation between January 2016 and April 2017. Graham Vidler, director of communications and engagement for Nest, warned preparation could take anything from six to 18 months. He said: “Using a workplace pension scheme will be relatively unchartered territory for many, so arming yourself with as much information as possible is critical. With plenty to think about when considering how to implement automatic enrolment, our message is to start planning early.” Salon group Headmasters, which has about 1,000 employees and 43 salons, is one of those set to implement auto-enrolment from February. Finance director Trevor Sanders said: “Traditionally the hairdressing industry doesn’t like to plan that far ahead. Most are not showing much interest in it at the moment.”

NHF makes case for minimum wage freeze The NHF has met officials from the Low Pay Commission (LPC), the body that recommends what level the national minimum wage (NMW) should be set at, to press the industry’s case for the wage to be left unchanged next year.

The NHF carried out a survey of members over the summer, with three-quarters of members who responded adamant NMW rates should be frozen, arguing any increase would erode pay differentials between junior and senior

staff further still. Many also called for the apprentices’ NMW to be extended to cover the full duration of training for over-19s. At the moment the apprentices’ rate only applies to under-19s or for over-19s in the first year of an apprenticeship, after which they revert to the full adult rate. Salon owners argue that this has deterred many business owners from taking on potentially talented older trainees, despite record levels of youth unemployment.

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 0845 345 6500, 01234 831695 or visit nhf.info Creative Head

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16/9/13 11:05:54

#CHedit

BUSINESS

barometer

STAFF – WHERE DO YOU GET YOURS? The times, they are a-changing. Social media is now the most popular way for salons to find new staff (38 per cent), with most salon owners saying that more traditional routes, such as advertising in local press, have become too expensive.

Only 9 per cent of our panel have used online recruitment companies. Almost all salons (96 per cent) give applicants a trade test before taking them on, followed by a probation period of three months on average.

97%

OF SALONS RECRUIT STAFF AND THEN TRAIN THEM TO SALONS OFFERING REDUCED A HIGHER LEVEL

AVERAGE NUMBER OF NEW RECRUITS IN THE PAST THREE YEARS:

CLIENT RATES FOR NEW STAFF:

21%

8

AUGUST 2013

HOW WAS IT FOR YOU HOW WAS BUSINESS IN AUGUST COMPARED WITH JULY? How was business in August compared with July?

STEADY:

DECLINING:

24%

24%

GROWING:

47%

STEADY:

29%

How was business in August compared with August last year?

GROWING:

76%

“Business in August was phenomenal – I was working double shifts and holidays. Because of the good weather, people stayed local” REG CIRCELLI, ADAM AND EVE HAIRDRESSERS, FELIXSTOWE

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Top tips ARE YOU GOOD AT MANAGING STOCK? HERE ARE SOME TIPS TO HELP YOU GET IN CONTROL… 1. Keep track of your stock by using your salon computer system to set your re-order levels and automatically reduce your stock level at the point of sale.

2. Purchase orders (POs) are vital and should be based on your reorder levels and package quantities the manufacturer supplies.

3. Be aware of your best sellers, worst sellers, and items out of stock. This is vital to help you establish a sensible stock holding.

4. Set your stock based on your marketing plan – it’s silly to have summer items on your shelves in the middle of November.

5. Professional stock can be an area of contention with regard to stock control as it can vary from each appointment and staff member. Software systems should have the ability to create a recipe for your professional usage, which you can use in conjunction with a manual control system.

6. Did you know you can use your smart phone or tablet to manage your stock on a regular basis?

Robert Miles, founder of Premier Software

premiersoftware.co.uk

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE

CREATIVE HEAD

17/9/13 12:55:46

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call:01543 466580 web:www. premi ersalon. co. uk emai l:hello@premi ersalon. co. uk

Shop The latest products, colours and services

Dynamic duo Now you can recreate the dual texture look seen on the A/W13 catwalks with Sebastian Professional’s new Counter Balance collection. The duo comprises Shine Shaker, a versatile shine spray, and the matte Texture Maker spray.

RRP from £19.50 Call 01202 595700 sebastianprofessional.co.uk

First blush

from s celebrate 10 years of support The ghd V pink diamond set help ghd V pink y ever for ated don £10 cer, with ghd for Breakthrough Breast Can diamond set sold in the salon.

.com

hair RRP £135 Call 0845 330 1133 ghd

I’ve got the remedy The revamped Damage Remedy from Aveda offers four steps to hair heaven for those needing serious TLC. The intensive treatment protects and strengthens hair after just one use.

RRP from £19.50 Call 0870 034 2380 aveda.co.uk

Scent-sational

A Mythic Oil is sold every 17 seconds. Can’t get enough?

Then you’ll love Mythic Oil Le Parfum, L’Oréal Professionnel’s first hair perfume – it’s infused with jasmine and vanilla.

RRP £25

Call 0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

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Stick it

Gotta love these Paul Mitchell designs! Donations from the sale of Super Strong Shampoo and Conditioner, Take Home Kits and Super Skinny Serum go to the Pink Ribbon Foundation.

RRP from £10.75

Call 0845 659 0012 paul-mitchell.co.uk

Creative Head

16/9/13 11:07:16

Buy online

PRETTY IN PINK Rosy tones look fab on models such as Charlotte Free. Now clients can give them a try without the commitment with Powder Pink Spray from label.m – a soft pink makeover colour spray.

Dazzling deals* this month at creativeheadmag.com

RRP £9.95 Call 0870 770 8080 labelm.co.uk

TAKE ME HOME

Thanks to biomimetic ingredients, the new retail range from Nanokeratin is the perfect partner to its three in-salon services, each with its own shampoo, conditioner and masque.

BOTOX FOR HAIR BTX Hair is an innovative treatment that brings hair back to life. Heat infusion enables key ingredients to go into the cortex of the hair to fill-in cracks – and it lasts for four weeks!

RRP from £20 Call 020 8441 9923 nanokeratinsystems.com

In-salon treatment Call 0114 379 2121 btxhair.co.uk

This is a real multi-tasker – one bottle, 10 daily benefits for hair and it cuts blow-drying time by up to 30 per cent – it’s Wonder 10 from Clynol!

Call 01296 314000 clynol.com

❤ HOT

You’ll love The Touch from Cloud Nine. There’s no traditional on/off button – just snap to turn it on, and snap three times to change the temperature. Clever, huh?

RRP £99 Call 0845 026 7121 cloudninehair.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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The British Hair Royal Volume Pack is glamorous, voluminous hair fit for a princess.

GRAB IT £13.50

IS IT ANY WONDER?

RRP £9.95

Snap to it!

A REGAL ADDITION

*Online deals listed at salon price. Powered by Aston & Fincher

creativeheadmag.com/shop

SMOOTH MOVES The C1 professional styler is perfect for all hair types, as its titanium technology effortlessly glides for smooth results.

HOT STUFF £39.99

LIGHTNING BOLT Enjoy a FREE litre of NXT developer worth £3.99 when you buy a 1kg NXT Bleach.

REAL DEAL £11.50

VAT-FREE FURNITURE! This month Aston & Fincher will be cutting VAT on all salon furniture! The offer finishes at the end of December, perfect for a New Year salon refresh!

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20/9/13 13:50:21

#CHedit

reat p la ce g a – s e g Se lf rid io n! fo r in s p irat

Backstage at Headm asters’ Collect ion shoot

Going from blonde to brunette with Sandra from Gla mour

Ca sti ng ma le mode ls for H ea dm aste rs Co lle ction 2014

In the frame

I love the contra st of colou r place ment on this hair

Siobhan Jones from Headmasters shares her snapshots!

An icy, clean blo nd e

SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world?

Tweet us @creativeheadmag

Teachi ng at ou r A ca de m y

Ju dg in g m oodboa rd s fo r H ea d m aste rs Co lour H eroe s

The Tate – my favourite gallery

Love the ombre lips!

To discover what else Siobhan has been up to, visit creativeheadmag.com

To-do list the hottest happenings this month…

07 October

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2. Go underground

1. Get a round in Celebrate the winners and catch next year’s trends at the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final at London’s Roundhouse.

Call 0845 601 8128

14 October

Get up close and personal with UNITE’s senior artistic directors and young creative talent at East London’s Village Underground.

Call 0845 034 0770

18 October

3. See into the future Enjoy an evening of up-and-coming talent with The Fellowship at the Wella World Studio London.

Call 01295 724579

CREATIVE HEAD

16/9/13 11:09:42

SUPERIOR quality re m y h a ir Inspired by leading session stylists, the superior 100% Remy Hair Extensions by Hairaisers is a collection of high quality hair, selected for its health, shine and natural elasticity to deliver optimum quality time and time again. Available in a choice of weft or clip form, in a range of lengths and an array of beautiful natural shades.

B Y HA I R A I S E R S

For more information visit www.hairaisers.com or call 0208 965 2500 facebook.com/hairaisers.london @hairaisers

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12/09/2013 16:40

Inside story

Salon 3 The isle of man WHILE THE BUSINESS might be 10 years old, this is a new home for Salon 3 in Douglas on the Isle of Man. Designed by Interior Rehab, the Schwarzkopf Professional salon boasts wood flooring with lots of glass and monochrome, clean lines and a touch of exposed brickwork. It’s all about key features such as the bronze, silver, black and mirrored tile mosaic at the backwash. The styling stations are framed with faux mink fur or black velvet and the bespoke tan leather sofa is bedecked in hand-stitched branded cushions. And we love the Joan Crawford statement on the wall: “The most important thing a woman can have next to talent is her hairdresser”. You can’t argue with that!

Hot buys

now open

Fit for a king Inspired by the classic Louis XVI chair, the Maletti Pompadour Crystal will infuse your salon with a regal French feel.

Price £940+VAT 020 3207 2032 maletti.co.uk

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Emma Hellier, Bexhill Once known as The Retreat, a new location and a fresh name has seen this Bexhill favourite embrace an eco-driven strategy with its interiors. Quirky, bespoke and recycled, it doesn’t get much better!

Creative Head

16/9/13 11:13:22

KON_ADVERT_creative_head_AUG13.i1 1

6/8/13 10:44:00

I N N O VAT I O N

Can you keep a secret?

We’re not ones to gossip, but the latest innovation

by Millennium Software is too good not to share…

PSST… DO YOU KNOW what’s coming this winter?

It’s been kept under wraps but as it gets closer to the launch, it’s becoming harder and harder to keep a secret.

Everyone wants to know what the buzz is all about. What is it? The answer to all smaller salons and self-employed stylists’ problems.

In a nutshell, Millennium Software has been secretly working on a true innovation for the hair industry – meet Meevo, the next revolution in salon software. Built to meet the needs of smaller salons and self-employed stylists, Meevo is made for tablets, full-sized PCs or Macs and it’s cloud-based. But the most mind-blowing part? You can actually have a conversation with Meevo. That’s right – just tell it what you want and it will do it.

With Meevo, you will finally have the tools available to operate like larger salons and spas with such features as mobile text reminders and online booking.

That’s all Millennium Software can tell us for now as most of Meevo’s features are unique, patented and set to revolutionise the industry. You can stay in the know by checking in with its website and keep a look out for the next update as the software team begins to slowly leak more and more information as it nears the launch in December!

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CREATIVE HEAD

16/9/13 11:14:23

Want to be in on the secret? Stay up-to-date on all the latest news on Meevo by Millennium Software.

Visit meevosoftware.co.uk Creative Head

p30-31_Meevo Promo_GW3.indd 3

31

16/9/13 11:14:39

“The enhanced lift series is fantastic on both dark and light natural levels, helping to create unique blonde results to match the client’s vision.”

Anthony Mascolo Founder of Tigi

Nick Irwin Global Creative Director

Christel Lundqvist Tigi Global Technical Creative Director

the best shades are the ones you invent.

Become a TIGI copyright©olour stockist: UK: 0844 844 0944 | Ireland: 01890 812 022 For more creative inspiration and information visit: www.tigicopyrightcolour.com

4086_BHS PROJECT BOMBSHELL DPS AD 220x285.indd 2

30/07/2013 11:47

By Hairdressers. For Hairdressers.

. t i n w o . t i . t t i n lift inve New improved lift series Developed by the TIGI Creative Team for express lift and neutralisation in 35 minutes.

35 min

4086_BHS PROJECT BOMBSHELL DPS AD 220x285.indd 3

30/07/2013 11:48

PPQ A/W13, image courtesy of ghd 34

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Creative Head

16/9/13 11:15:41

COMPETITION

Access all areas Images this page, above right: Lisa Higgott ghd guest artist; middle right: Jo Robertson, ghd head of UK & ROI education; bottom right: Steve Robinson, ghd art team.

Want to style backstage at London Fashion Week? With ghd Spotlight, you can make it happen FOR MANY STYLISTS, LONDON FASHION WEEK is the dream gig. Not everyone gets the opportunity – but with ghd, you might!

Thanks to the latest ghd Spotlight competition, one stellar stylist will grab the chance to work backstage at London Fashion Week in February 2014 with ghd. Working for the ghd team, you’ll have the chance to illustrate your creativity and dedication in a high-pressure situation.

It’s very simple to get involved. Just create a ghd Showcase profile at ghdhair.com or go to creativeheadmag.com/ ghdshowcase and upload your entry from your mobile device. Anyone can enter – your salon doesn’t need to be a ghd stockist, just remember to include #styletowin with your entry. But that’s not all – this Spotlight competition is a little different! Why? Because the finalists will be selected by the people! The three most popular entries that fit the brief will make it through to a street-style photoshoot, so make sure you encourage friends and clients to like and share your ghd Showcase post on Facebook.

If you are one of the final three, then you’ll get to show just what you can do at a street-style shoot with ghd. Create a killer finish to put before the ghd judging panel – the winner will be selected based on their styling skills, performance and a fabulous final image by an internal ghd judging panel.

Have you got what it takes?

To find out more, call 0845 330 1133 or visit ghdhair.com/spotlight CREATIVE HEAD

p34-35_ghd promo_GW2 3

GET INVOLVED Join the conversation at #ghdspotlight or visit creativeheadmag.com/ghdshowcase

WHAT TO DO The bob. A classic chignon. The blow-dry. All timeless styles that are reinvented each season. We want you to rework a classic hairstyle and put your stamp on it! Through images or video, show us how creative you can be.

Style a model and take a picture or create a step-by-step video.

Just remember your entry must be your own work and created specifically for this ghd Spotlight competition. Anyone can enter – your salon doesn’t need to be a ghd stockist, just remember to include the tag #styletowin with your entry. The closing date for entries is Tuesday 22 October.

DON’T FORGET Add #styletowin when you upload your entries for the ghd Spotlight competition!

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20/9/13 15:28:31

Scene Robert Cromeans, John Paul DeJoria and Angus Mitchell

Stephanie Kocielski

THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!

e w!

When in Vegas…

What do you get when 3,500 hairdressers descend on one of Las Vegas’s most iconic hotels? A two-day party that would make The Hangover gang’s antics look tame. Yes, it could only be Paul Mitchell’s The Gathering 2013. Held at Caesars Palace, the annual event saw hairdressers from 25 countries gather for two days of seminars, workshops and inspirational hair shows. The brand’s co-founder John Paul DeJoria kicked off the event in style, riding onto the stage on a motorbike, before co-owner Angus Mitchell and global artistic director Robert Cromeans introduced three shows that took in everything from colour to cutting to styling. It was then on to a day of learning with 18 classes altogether, followed by a show-stopping finale that encompassed the brand’s passion for hair as well as fun, friendship and family the highlight was seeing creative director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, Takashi, stretching his limbs to cut and style the hair of a stilt-wearing model!

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•Scene_36-41 2

Creative Head

17/9/13 13:09:00

Takashi Creative Head

•Scene_36-41 3

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17/9/13 13:09:35

Festival

Giles Deacon

fever

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•Scene_36-41 4

Glam wellies and denim cutoffs were the order of the day at Toni&Guy’s 50th anniversary held at Knebworth Park in Hertfordshire, and if the celebrations proved anything, it was that the brand is 50-yearsyoung. In the words of co-founder Toni Mascolo: “It’s only just begun.”

The event saw 4,000 hair stylists, salon owners and guests take over the house’s grounds for a day of fun, food, music and, of course, inspirational hair shows. Guests enjoyed fairground rides and pampering pop-ups including Essie, ghd and label.m, before heading into the main tent where designer Giles Deacon was on the decks to provide the soundtrack to the evening. Beatboxer Beardyman and rapper Iggy Azalea wowed the audience, which then settled down to see the brand’s new 50/50 collection.

Fashion presentations from Giles and Jean-Pierre Braganza followed, before flag bearers from Toni&Guy salons around the world took to the stage.

With the hair shows over, headliner Labrinth ensured the party kept going well into the early hours.

Creative Head

17/9/13 13:10:00

Toni Mascolo and Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Creative Head

•Scene_36-41 5

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17/9/13 13:10:29

Images courtesy of Nino Bartolo Rachel Wyatt and Maria Vittoria Mangiarotti

To unwrap a present is (almost) as much fun as receiving the gift itself – something Davines has picked up on for its new More Inside range, which it launched to a packed audience of hairstylists and salon owners. Held at Tanner & Co in London, Rachel Wyatt, Davines UK manager, and Maria Vittoria Mangiarrotti, Davines international creative director, were on hand to provide an insight into the creative inspirations behind the wrapping of the new range.

Blue Tit London then presented a range of hair looks including a twist on the dip-dye and some ’80s pink-inspired style using the More Inside range. Next was Concrete, led by owner Luca Sparti Cesari.

Taking inspiration from the late ’50s, the team showcased a number of styles, mixing and creating different textures. The finale saw the Allilon Education Team, headed up by co-director Johnny Othona, take guests on a journey through its Streb collection, which was based on choreographer’s Elizabeth Streb’s Olympics-inspired project.

Jay Mahmood, creative stylist for Allilon

more!

Luca Sparti Cesari

We want

See it Check out the Streb collection exclusively in the Christmas Creative HEAD

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•Scene_36-41 6

Creative Head

17/9/13 13:10:47

Stephanie Kocielski

Style

odyssey

TWEET IT Follow the Creative HEAD team at all the hottest events @creativeheadmag

Heather Kaanoi

Sam Burns

Lucie Doughty

When it comes to a showstopping spectacle, Paul Mitchell knows how it’s done. Shortly after its awe-inspiring Las Vegas Gathering, the brand pulled out all the stops once again to host I’MPOSSIBLE Mainstage 2013 in Hammersmith, London. Following a day of workshops in session styling and gents grooming, guests headed to the main hall for the extraordinary spectacle, which was led by Paul Mitchell artistic director, Stephanie Kocielski. Joined on stage by a crack team of Paul Mitchell pros such as Colin Caruso, Sam Burns and Lucie Doughty, she took guests on an adventure through cut, colour, style and male grooming. The gaspworthy finale saw Stephanie take her styling skills into the crowd, where she cut free a tangle of balloons from a model’s tresses and restyled her look.

Creative Head

•Scene_36-41 7

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Creative Head

16/9/13 11:18:34

colour

Taking back colour This A/W13, TIGI is putting colour control into the hands of colourists with new shades and a reformulated care range

Creative Head

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16/9/13 11:19:15

Home defence Protect all of your hard work from serial colour abusers with the Bed Head by TIGI Colour Care range

Colour Goddess Shampoo

What does it do?

Featuring provitamin B5 and vitamin E, this shampoo gently cares for the hair of even the most serious colour addicts.

What makes it so good? An amazing infusion of nourishing sweet almond oil, coconut oil and keratin provides brilliant hair defence for over-processed hair.

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Colour Goddess Conditioner

What does it do?

Developed to smooth the cuticle and deliver lipids into the hair, this conditioner provides amazing protection.

What makes it so good? Infused with sweet almond oil, it cleverly deposits a layer of light, waterrepelling agents onto the hair, while nourishing with shea butter, vitamin E and keratin.

Dumb Blonde Shampoo

What does it do?

This PH-balanced shampoo brings every shade of blonde back to its brilliant best, gently and effectively.

What makes it so good? It contains a unique Protein Booster Technology to restore hair, also protecting locks externally with milk protein and keratin conditioners, leaving it smooth, soft and sensual.

Dumb Blonde Reconstructor

What does it do?

This repairing moisturiser for chemically treated hair restores tresses to their core.

What makes it so good?

Featuring milk protein and keratin, it helps reconstruct over-processed and damaged hair, while the Addictive Repair technology also means that the more your client uses it, the stronger their hair becomes.

Creative Head

16/9/13 11:19:39

Creative Head

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16/9/13 11:21:04

Creative Head

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16/9/13 11:21:29

Gianfranco Ferré A/W13

John Richmond A/W13

PASTELS

“Pretty and feminine or cool and crisp; this palette has moved on from the delicate summer tones to become more vibrant,” says Christel. “The feeling is of innocence, with tones of nude, lilac, bluebell, jasmine and champagne.”

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REDS

“Majestic tones that are rich and colourful signal the strength of red this season. The emotional charge from these tones is all about expressionism with shades of mulberry, poppy, fuchsia, maroon and blood red,” reveals Christel.

Creative Head

16/9/13 11:22:03

On the frontline There’s nothing more exciting than being the first to spot the Next Big Thing. But for Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director, it’s her job! Here, she reveals the A/W13 catwalk trends that inspired the new TIGI copyright©olour hues

Jean-Paul Lespagnard A/W13

BRUNETTES

“Rich and luxe, the new shades for brunettes include ambergold, muted mustard, mocha, antique bronze, burnt sienna and medieval gold. The feeling created is glamorous and alluring,” says Christel.

Creative Head

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Louise Gray A/W13

DARK

“There’s a ’90s vibe to this dark palette that’s all about the urban punk,” explains Christel. “These are deep, saturated shades that include raven black, charcoal, deep indigo, deep turquoise and teal black.”

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Fashion, meet colour You’ve seen the catwalk colour trends. Now discover how TIGI copyright©olour has interpreted them to create its stunning A/W13 shades Ever fashion-forward, TIGI has launched a new hue and three enhanced TIGI copyright©olour lift shades to make sure you’re always one step ahead.

Formulated with Ceratine Complex, the new formulas are lower in ammonia and have a creamy consistency, making them easier to work with and a pleasure to use.

“Due to neutralisation qualities, the new 100/88 shade works especially well on darker levels with warmer undertones and darker depths,” explains Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director.

“The new and improved TIGI copyright©olour lift shades are a fantastic addition to the portfolio, increasing lightening services and furthering creative opportunities. With a 35-minute processing time, these shades are a great time saver for both the salon and busy clients,” she adds.

On dark-haired and light natural-haired clients, TIGI copyright©olour lift shades provide countless creative options, allowing colourists to unlock the full potential of TIGI copyright©olour lift shades, as well as complementing clients’ style.

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Creative Head

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Hair Nick Irwin and Akos Bodi. COLOUR Christel Lundqvist. Make-up Pat Mascolo and Amy Barrington.

Styling Jiv D. PHOTOGRAPHY Anthonty Mascolo and Robert Aguilar.

Haus Alkire A/W13

Look one Linen, muted mocha and champagne blonde

Gianfranco Ferré A/W13

Behind the shades Christel Lundqvist explains the key catwalk inspirations influencing TIGI copyright©olour’s new A/W13 shades “One of my key trends this season is pastel tones and I’ve divided this category into coral, nude, champagne, jasmine white, rosewater and bluebell.

One of my key inspirations was the Gianfranco Ferré show in Milan. He showed heavy satin, classic longsleeved dresses in beautiful nude pallid tones. I also like the gold and creamy pale brocades used by Osman in his show at London Fashion Week.”

Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director

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Creative Head

16/9/13 11:25:55

“Brunette is big this season. We did the hair for The Blondes show during New York Fashion Week and a lot of their clothes used two-tone fur in different shades of brown that provides great inspiration for hair. In Paris, Jean-Paul Lespagnard used rich brocades in chocolate and gold that I found really good for richer tones.�

Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director

The Blonds A/W13

Look two Walnut, pale almond and wheat blonde

Creative Head

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Nicholas K A/W13

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Copycat colour Love the new shades from TIGI copyright©olour? Get them in the salon and on your client’s wishlist now with our handy step-by-step guide THe look was created using a creative blending technique achieve a seamless multi-tonal colour effect of soft walnut, pale almond and wheat blonde. The effect creates softness and strength to the overall style.

Step by step

Step one: On a centre profile parting, take an irregular half circleshaped section starting from the crown working towards the profile, finishing two inches back from the centre forehead. Repeat on the opposite side. This creates two irregular sections.

Step two: Take a radial parting towards the ear, creating a section through the front hairline. Repeat the same on the opposite side.

Step three: Take a half-inch horizontal slice at the nape and apply Formula 1 (see opposite page) from the new growth through to the length and ends. Protect the skin using a TIGI copyright©olour Meche Strip. Continue until the section is complete.

Step four: Proceed to top section. Take half-inch horizontal slices, applying Formula 1 from the new growth area to the mid-lengths, and Formula 2 from mid-lengths to ends in a blending technique.

Use TIGI copyright©olour meche strips to isolate the section.

Step five: Continue application through to the side sections by taking half-inch horizontal slices. Apply Formula 1 to the new growth area and Formula 3 through the mid-lengths and ends using a blending technique. Continue until complete.

Step six: Repeat the same on the opposite side. Process for 35 minutes, then emulsify, rinse and remove using Bed Head

by TIGI Colour Care Dumb Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner.

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Creative Head

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Model: Caroline Colourist: Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director Natural level: -5/0 Formula 1: Walnut – 30g TIGI copyright©olour creative 7/3 + 10g TIGI copyright©olour gloss 0/02 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 8.5vol/2.55% Formula 2: Pale almond – 15g TIGI copyright©olour lift 100/28 + 10g TIGI copyright©olour creative 7/0 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 20vol/6% Formula 3: Wheat blonde – 20g TIGI copyright©olour lift 100/28 + TIGI copyright©olour activator 20vol/6%

Want the new TIGI copyright©olour shades in your salon now?

Call 0844 844 0944 or visit tigiprofessional.com Creative Head

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MONEY

FREE CA$H GOOD, WE’VE GOT YOUR ATTENTION. HERE’S OUR FREE, DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO MONEY – HOW TO SPEND IT, HOW IT SAVE IT AND, MOST IMPORTANTLY, HOW TO MAKE IT! BUSINESS BOOSTER

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REAL RETURN

“Smoothing is the service with the most consistent wow factor,” stresses Jez Barnett, manging director at KeraStraight. “It delivers three or four times a year, while you might only have a drastic cut or colour once or twice a year.” And with no patch testing required, add-on services such as KeraStraight’s Intense Boost treatment can be done there and then, and offers a fantastic return on investment for a salon. The unit cost to the salon is £1, while the price for clients is usually £25, before the addition of a blow-dry.

GET ONLINE See how Malaysian salon group A Cut Above give a quality cut in just 15 minutes creativeheadmag.com

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The salon’s getting steamy and it’s making money!

A collaboration between L’Oréal Professionnel and Rowenta Salon, the Steampod is a clever little gadget that offers shiny and smooth hair to clients, while delivering a profit-boosting added extra to blow-dry appointments.

It’s a perfect way to get junior team members to build their confidence and they column, and with an at-home version on sale in the salon (see the Limited Edition Pink Diamond below), the Steampod can ratchet up your retail. It’s getting hot in here…

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PRESCRIPTION FOR PROFIT

A new generation of keratin services can support a diagnostic and prescriptive approach, and canny hair salons are making money from them. Nanokeratin offers four services dependant on hair type, allowing stylists to offer cutting edge technology and expert advice to help build a long-term client relationship. These are investment services for clients and Yashar Rasekh, managing director for Paul Edmonds in London, has a great tip. “A great way to boost retail is to take before and after shots of a client’s hair – they’ll buy everything you have to offer when they see the difference,” he says.

CREATIVE HEAD

20/9/13 13:55:53

HOW TO MAKE IT

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HAIR Great Lengths Stylists – Amanda Jackson, Michael Blackham, Simon Daniel, Charlotte Boyes and Ruth Madden. PHOTOGRAPHY Sean Knott.

WANT TO MAKE MORE MONEY? A RHETORICAL QUESTION, OF COURSE. BUT IF YOU REALLY WANT TO INCREASE PROFIT, YOU NEED TO BE THINKING OUTSIDE THE (CA$H) BOX

BRAID OF HEAVEN

Barbara Daley in Liverpool needed a way to entice younger clients into the salon. “We have always been an aspirational brand but with that comes the idea that many people can’t afford us, which is not true,” says style director Andrea Daley. So she came up with a braid bar using tecni.art from L’Oréal Professionnel.

With six fashion-forward styles to choose from, clients can book in for a 20-minute appointment for £20.

CREATIVE HEAD

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LENGTHY LESSONS

As Great Lengths unveils its first men’s collection – recognising the growing market for well-groomed guys – principal educator Amanda Jackson shares her top tips on bringing your staff up to scratch to maximise profits with extensions At least two members of every salon should be fully trained on extensions so there is always someone on hand to service clients.

Ensure everyone is aware of the versatility of extensions. They’re not just for length and you don’t always need to apply a full head. And don’t forget extensions can be applied on men!

At least one member of staff at every salon should be a wearer of extensions. This allows the team and clients to get a feel for them.

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#IdeasBank

Cash machines

Three fruitful salons share their successes to help you hit the jackpot Ego Hair Design

Caroline Sanderson, owner of Ego Hair Design, has completely turned her business around, resulting in winning the Most Wanted BUSINESS THINKER 2013 title. In the past three years profits have increased by 350 per cent and in 2012 client numbers grew by 2,466. Caroline says: “To grow our net profit we focus on boosting our turnover but keeping our profit percentage balanced, with a minimum profit at 20 per cent of our net turnover. To do this we know our numbers and stick to them, tracking all expenses.” According to Caroline, her success is down to an innovative marketing strategy that aims to raise new client spend, average spend per client and visits per client. In 2012, Caroline was able to expand the brand to a second premise as a result of client demand, which she did on a £10,000 budget.

Sarah Hodge Group

In addition to their Sarah Hodge salons, Somerset-based salon owners Karly and Abby Whittaker are the brains behind The Salon, an innovative concept that offers clients the choice of just 12 value for money services. With a client retention rate of 75 per cent, The Salon sees about 1,500 clients a month, with 28 per cent of walk-ins opting to book in for the next appointment – a privilege they pay 66 per cent more for to guarantee a specific stylist. “The average bill for the salon is £14.22, which is £22 lower than the Sarah Hodge average bill,” explains Karly. “But it works as the increased visit rate makes a client’s average spend over six months exceed the Sarah Hodge average.”

In addition, The Salon makes a healthy 41 per cent profit through retail sales as a result of the girls’ decision to offer all Goldwell products at the same £9.50 price, doubling The Salon’s retail performance in just 13 weeks.

lisa shepherd salons Lisa Shepherd has turned the traditional colour appointment on its head with the introduction of a unique Color Bar. Designed to handle lowcost but high-skill colour appointments in less than an hour, the concept comes with a new branded area in each of the group’s salons, a Color Bar menu, designated team members and a blow-dry area for clients to rough dry their hair. Teaming up with Redken, each Color Bar costs about £15,000 to build into the salon and opens up colour services to the lower-budget client. For this year it’s an exclusive concept for the Lisa Shepherd Salons brand, but the Color Bar concept can be rolled out to other salons.

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Creative Head

20/9/13 14:02:26

are your clients

frizzed off?

Strengthens. Repairs. Transforms.

KeraStraight’s ground breaking and award winning treatments transform all hair types providing incredible strength, softness and shine. KeraStraight repairs the hair leaving it straighter, frizz free and easy to manage for up to 4 months.

“KeraStraight really delivers results, for our clients, for our team and for our business” Trevor Sorbie MBE

www.kerastraight.com/ch 0800 292 2026 Distributors and Agents Required

CH FP Advert KeraStraight 2013.indd 1

06/09/2013 17:14

How to $AVE it We asked some of the best in the business for their budgeting tips, tricks and hints to saving money and cutting costs

Waste not!

“Avoid waste, overlap, and unnecessary pimping of equipment – the bells and whistles beyond what’s actually needed.

When you are going to spend, follow a checklist and ask yourself, does it make us happy? Does it bring us closer to our goals?

Does it create leverage – are there knock-on effects for the team and business?

Avoid short-term consumption wherever possible.”

Michael Van Clarke, Michael Van Clarke

Assess decisions

“Don’t spend money on advertising unless you have a clear objective and an accurate way of measuring effectiveness.

Never do anything just because someone else does it and with every decision always ask ‘why?’ Finally, avoid carrying underperforming team members.”

Ken West, 3•6•5

Save on staff

“The margins in salons are not big and it’s essential that as an owner you have a grasp on where revenue is going. The largest percentage of salon revenue is employee costs and this can easily get out of control. The number one lesson is to know the numbers in your business!”

Anthony Whitaker, growmysalonbusiness.com

Know your costs

“Review your running costs and renegotiate phone, gas, electricity, accountants and cardmachine contracts. Also, consider installing LED lighting and use disposable towels to help save costs and the environment.”

Esther Van der Veken, Tommy’s Hair Company

Buy in bulk

“Salons should always be looking out for discounts and special offers, and they can also save money on essential items like gloves, foil and towels by buying in bulk and considering own-brand products.”

Alan Revitt, Salon Services

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Creative Head

16/9/13 12:22:11

money

Staff checklist n Is your salon overstaffed? n If you pay commission, is the percentage too high?

n Is the level at which commission starts too low?

n Are you charging enough for your services?

n Are your appointment times too long for the amount you charge?

n Do you have too many people in management roles?

n Are the levels of expected productivity for stylists too low?

n Are you getting assistants on the floor and performing quickly enough?

n Do you have a training programme to get assistants productive as soon as possible?

With thanks to Anthony Whitaker

Creative Head

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#IdeasBank

NATURAL PROGRESSION

Help save the environment and cut costs in the process: that’s what the owners of Élan, the UK’s most eco-friendly salon, did. Twelve awards later and co-owner Lorna Milton and family have reduced costs again Creative HEAD: How does being eco-friendly help to save money?

Lorna Milton: Changes across the entire Élan operation have helped save money – from using solar energy and reducing energy consumption with LED lights from LED Hut, to using eco-friendly disposable towels and changing our backwash system to reduce water consumption by 82 per cent. Before the changes our electricity bill was £6,000 and this has been reduced to just £900.

CH: What things do you do to be eco-efficient?

LM: We have won national

A bright idea

Do you want to bring your salon into the brave new eco-world for free, and save a packet on electricity bills?

Then enter our competition to be in with the chance to win a free set of LED lights for your salon, courtesy of LED Hut! For more information, just visit creativeheadmag.com. All entrants will receive a 10 per cent discount on LED Hut orders, too!

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recognition for our innovative approach and have introduced a range of radical eco-features. Just a few of these include 16 PV panels – a renewable energy source that is reducing CO2 emissions, three solar thermal panels to heat the water and an air source heat pump for heating water. Due to green initiatives that have been implemented we are on target to reduce our carbon footprint by 90 per cent in 2014.

CH: Why do you use LED lighting?

LM: The LED lights we get save energy and money as well as providing good, clean light and changeable colours, which create effects such as softening the mood.

CH: How does being eco-efficient help to attract more customers?

LM: It differentiates us and gives us a unique selling point that adds to great hairdressing. It really interests people and the awards attract attention as well, which in addition to increasing our client count by 20 per cent also helps to create a constant stream of local and national press coverage, so it publicises Élan in a unique way, too.

CH: What has been your biggest expense and has it been worth it?

LM: The whole project including our refurbishment was a large amount of money, but we see it as an investment as many of the technologies we have introduced will give us a positive return on investment over time.

CREATIVE HEAD

20/9/13 15:31:18

by switching to LED lighting TODAY Energy effecient & eco-friendly DIRECT replacements for old lights LED bulbs last over 20 YEARS

Save 90% off your lighting bill with LED lights

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money

How to $pend it

Okay, you might think this is the easy bit.

But take care to spend wisely to see the best return for your money

In the know

Education is arguably the best way to invest your hard-earned profits. but don’t just take our word for it...

Percy & Reed “There are no short cuts in education. If you want to have the best possible team, you need to train them to the highest possible level,” says Adam Reed of Percy & Reed London, whose East London salon has just won Most Wanted BEST SALON EXPERIENCE 2013. Adam sends his NVQ students to Alan d to complete their training. “Alan d Hairdressing Education offers a full five-week training block, which gives our apprentices really focused training and sends a message that you are serious about your their careers,” he explains.

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Creative Head

20/9/13 14:03:37

Brush up on the retail The KentSalon range can provide a much-needed boost to sales

Foran and Blake

Team retention at Foran and Blake in Lancashire currently stands at 100 per cent, a figure that owner Will Foran insists is achievable through top-notch leadership skills and education.

“I have invested £9,800 on the training and development of my team in the past 12 months, from technical courses to help with building up their own column and team building events such as spa days and go-karting.” It is this feeling of team spirit that Will believes has led to 82 per cent of guests returning to the salon. He adds: “Through training, the team understands that we are only as good as our last experience, which is why none of us take our guests for granted.”

When Kent Brushes launched KentSalon it had one thing in mind: to create a range of bespoke, professional hairbrushes that would be sold directly to salons and never on the high street.

Seventeen brushes later and the range is going from strength to strength. But how does it stand out from the competition? For a start these are not just hairbrushes: these are precision tools for stylists and clients seeking perfection. The collections – KentSalon Ceramics, Curling

& Straightening, Cushion & Paddle and Styling & Detail – are the culmination of 236 years of experience and crafted to fit every hand size, with ergonomic, soft touch handles.

People everywhere are falling in love with KentSalon brushes and your clients will too. One touch is all it takes for them to recognise these are no ordinary hairbrushes and, as the range is sold directly to salons, it’s the perfect opportunity to offer clients a high-quality product that can’t be found anywhere else.

Kirby Blythe

After winning a scholarship to the Schwarzkopf Professional ASK business course, Kirby Blythe, owner of Scunthorpe’s Hair By Kirby Blythe, is reaping the rewards. The four-day programme, which embraces marketing, management and money, has helped her to re-evaluate her business and make the changes needed to increase profits, which have already risen by five per cent since March. “The course filled me with confidence and a new energy for creating a professionally-run business,” says Kirby. “I have now laid down policies and procedures to create consistency in quality for my clients.”

Creative Head

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Increase your retail revenue and make clients adore KentSalon in one swoop. Call 01442 232623, visit kentsalon.co.uk or follow @kentsalon on Twitter 109

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#IdeasBank

How to $pend it Get connected

While the majority of salons have made the transition to a fully integrated software system, is your technology being used to its full potential?

Creative HEAD: How do you make the most of your software package?

Kain Lawrence, director of Q Hair & Beauty in Chichester: “We use all the functions of our Millennium Software package, especially the Paul Mitchell Tool Box, which allows stylists to see how they are doing in real time, letting them see how increasing their average bill or rebooking has impacted on their week and month.

Also the reporting system is fantastic – Millennium has more than 400 reports!”

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CH: How has software

CH: How does your software

transformed your business?

system help to run your salon more efficiently?

Sam Rice, owner of The Men’s Room in Liverpool: “The Casio VR-100 has revolutionised our back office. Each retail product is now listed and reconciled and the transaction is linked, meaning that staff members now have their own bookings tagged against their commission and wage slip. It has taken the guesswork out of reordering stock, we can pay staff quickly and we can download reports any time.”

Dean Beavis, co-owner of Gregory Dean in Leigh-on-Sea: “Our Premier Software system was only installed in August and already the hour it used to take me to do the banking and accounts each day has been reduced to 10 minutes. We do a lot of shows abroad, such as in Paris and Milan, so the fact we can now access the system on our phones is amazing.”

Creative Head

16/9/13 12:24:11

LATEST HOLLYWOOD SECRET - LIKENED TO

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BTX HAIR RHC REVOLUTION HAIR CONCEPTS

DIS AG TRI EN BU TS TO WA RS NT AN ED D

BECOME A STOCKIST

For more info please call Revolution Hair Concepts on 0114 379 2121 or email info@btxhair.co.uk

www.btxhair.co.uk BTX 3 1

20/9/13 13:02:49

How to $pend it Pretty green

money

Your salon interior reflects your brand, so attract the right clientele and spend on a few key items that fit with your ethos

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Pietranera Wen backwash from LSE

Suflo reception desk from REM

Ultrawash Washpoint from Aston & Fincher

Launched in 2009, the unit received a lot of attention and the love continues today, with more than 500 sold to date. Available with an electric leg-rest and air massage either in the back section or back and seat sections, the product is revered for its comfort, high-end design and durability. Gary Ingham of Gary Ingham Lifestyle Salon and Spa in Hampstead, says: “We’ve just fitted out our second salon and spa with LSE. We chose LSE and Pietranera because it’s simply the best quality salon furniture in the UK.”

The Suflo reception desk arrived on the market in the early ’70s and its design has endeared it to more than 18,000 salons. Now made in four sizes and available in more than 20 colours, it affords the option of till cutouts, drawers, cupboards, cash drawers and cable management systems.

Last year, the Suflo’s little sister was launched – the Saturn Desk – with LED lighting. Terri Golding of A Touch of Class in Cheadle, says: “It’s neat, not imposing and provides lots of space.

It’s a beautiful addition to the salon.”

The Ultrawash is Aston & Fincher’s best selling air shiatsu massage washpoint.

Beautiful in design, it features an electrical leg rest for comfort and a tilting white ceramic basin. Leigh Sargent of Jaks Hair and Beauty Salon in Newport, says: “Clients always tell us how comfortable and relaxing this backwash unit is!

Giving your clients that little bit extra really sets you apart from the competition.”

BUY IT Until the end of the year, Aston & Fincher will be scrapping VAT creativeheadmag.com/shop

How will you spend your money? Tweet us @creativeheadmag 70

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20/9/13 14:04:05

Creative Head advertisement-UK.indd 1

13/9/13 16:00:38

“Since introducing the 10 Steps, our skincare and make-up sales have increased 300 per cent – we simply wouldn’t consider moving to another brand”

BEVERLEY BATES, EKKO

The power of ritual

La Biosthétique salons enjoy a high level of repeat business, thanks to the company’s new 10 Steps to Success Beauty Rituals programme EVERY SALON WANTS to get ahead of the competition – something that sets them apart from the rest and keeps clients coming back time and again.

La Biosthétique knows how important it is to retain clients, which is why it introduced the 10 Steps to Success Beauty Rituals programme. A unique service experience, the rituals start with an initial consultation – including a diagnosis of hair and scalp health – and finish with a post-appointment make-up touch-up.

All through the salon journey, clients are introduced to products specifically chosen to suit their individual needs – a no-pressure, subtle product introduction that invariably leads to a sale. Owner of La Biosthétique salon Ekko in Banbury, Beverley Bates has seen the Rituals work for her salon. “These 10 Steps are a premium service experience that build client loyalty – it makes them feel special and that they’re getting something they wouldn’t find elsewhere,” she explains. “It also provides a sensory experience that allows the client to discover and try our products in different ways. This increases retail sales following our recommendation – we’re not selling a product; we’re selling a solution.”

To find out more about becoming a La Biosthétique salon, call 01296 611731 or visit biosthetique.co.uk 72

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/9/13 14:05:01

The Culture of Total Beauty

www.biosthetique.co.uk

HAIR & SCALP CARE, COLOUR, SKIN & BODY CARE, MAKE-UP, STYLING, NATURAL RANGE

La Biosthétique’s unique premium prescriptive brand delivers total concept formulas for professional colour, hair and skin care. Superior quality, innovative products, international hair & beauty trends and products developed dermatologically without animal testing. The La Biosthétique brand creates a unique point of difference for your salon.

To find out how La Biosthétique can help you create success for your salon call 01296 611731. We would be delighted to hear from you.

Quick smart

One touch is all it takes. Meet one of the world’s first automatic styling irons – The Touch by Cloud Nine With just a touch you could be in control of one of the most innovative styling tools ever! With Cloud Nine’s The Touch, one touch is all it takes...

The iron has no traditional on/off button, cutting power consumption to a sliver of traditional irons. You simply plug it in, pick it up and start straightening automatically – as soon as you run the iron through the first section of hair it will be heated to 195°C and ready to style. It also features a second heat setting; simply snap the iron together three times and the temperature will drop to 165°C, while an LED indicator highlights the temperature you’re working at. Why the two temperatures? They’re the ideal heat settings for thick and fine hair, to deliver the perfect heat for each client.

The Touch is a clever piece of kit that places control and creativity in your hands. An advanced microprocessor ensures that the temperature is always constant for superior styling results, while mineral-infused ultra-smooth ceramic plates naturally polish the hair, creating shine and allowing the same great results at lower temperatures – it’s what Cloud Nine is all about.

So whether you need speedy styling results backstage, on a shoot or in the salon, with this automatic styling iron there’s no waiting around. And now you can get even quicker with your styling by using the Magical Quick Dry Potion from Cloud Nine too, so you can get smoothing in a shot. This product cuts heat styling time by an average of 50 per cent, while protecting from extreme heat and premature hair ageing. Unruly hair is tamed, making styling a fuss-free pleasure. Get altogether kinder styling in a snap, with Cloud Nine!

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Creative Head

20/9/13 14:06:21

See the Christmas issue of Creative HEAD for a peek at Cloud Nine’s exclusive Christmas Gift Sets

For more information, call 0845 026 7121, visit cloudninehair.com or follow Cloud Nine on Twitter @CloudNineC9 Creative Head

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Nature has the answer *After one application of Damage Remedy Daily Hair Repair in a clinical tensile test

Take a look at what goes into the making of Aveda’s wonder range, Damage Remedy

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AVEDA IS GIVING ONE of its most popular ranges – Damage Remedy – a brand new look. The newly designed, eco-intelligent Damage Remedy packaging comes in a clean and contemporary tone, using post-consumer recycled (PCR) high-density polyethylene (HDPE) bottles and tubes.

But it’s not just what’s on the outside that counts. This four-step hair regime features a Shampoo, Conditioner, Daily Hair Repair and Intensive Restructuring Treatment.

The Daily Hair Repair is a leave-in conditioner that instantly helps to improve the hair by 26 per cent,* while the once-weekly Intensive Restructuring Treatment strengthens damaged and chemically treated hair.

All of Damage Remedy’s ingredients are sustainably sourced and plant-based, and include organic quinoa protein, organic babassu from Maranhão in Brazil, plantbased phellodendron, sandalwood and barley and sea buckthorn; a natural antioxidant that helps protect hair from damage. Such a good-looking, good-for-the-planet product range deserves a gorgeous, campaign, which is why Aveda travelled to the volcanoes of Hawaii for its Damage Remedy photoshoot. Led by Aveda’s global creative director, Antoinette Beenders, the shoot took place 6,000 feet above sea level on the islands’ otherworldly Mauna Loa volcano.

She says: “The shiny and healthy hair next to the basalt rock illustrates the power and performance of the range.”

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For more details on Aveda Damage Remedy and how to join the Aveda network, call 0870 034 2380 or visit aveda.co.uk/grow Creative Head

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“This crop has gamine-schoolboy genes, which famously sent one all-time great supermodel’s career stratospheric. Thick on top, heavy over the eyes and tenderly layered into a chic nape”

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the return of the

cut As Daniel Hersheson prepares to unveil the makeover of its flagship salon, Luke Hersheson shares its exclusive new look book, Eight Cuts

It’s time to celebrate the rebirth of the hair cut.

Salon group Daniel Hersheson – the innovator behind the launch of the Hair Spa and the Blow Dry menu – has broken the mould again, inspired by the communication strategies of luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton and Prada. “These brands reveal a look book each season, so why shouldn’t we do something similar?” asks its creative genius, Luke Hersheson. “It gives us a chance to put our work on a platform.” The look book concept is stark in its simplicity – eight cuts devised to be personalised – with words by fashion writer Sarah Mower. And the content is a back-to-basics statement. “The time was right; we’re seeing the return of the haircut,” explains Luke. Influences are retrospective and contemplative yet utterly current and expressive. This is Eight Cuts.

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“Face-framing, tumbling, natural-looking – this centre-parted cut recalls images of Julie Christie and Sharon Tate. Wear with a pout”

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“A side-parted chin-length bob amped up with a wave and a scrunch. This bounce-back look has the feel of mid ’80s retro, but with the energy of a modern girl”

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Calling all Blondies: is there something eternally compelling about the deep-parted side-sweep and tousled rock-chick texture of this cut?

Yes. But you don’t have to be blonde to channel it.

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“Over one eye, angled up from the back, swishy in movement, this cut modernises the ’50s feel and ’90s reboot as epitomised by Audrey Horne of Twin Peaks”

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“Mod proportions – there’s a meticulously carved concave fringe, a lift in the crown, and a crucial new-look mid-length grazing the shoulder. It stays Faithfull to Marianne”

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“Stevie Nicks owned this cool girl-in-the-band cut back in the day. Now re-channelled with a fringe and artfully hacked-up layers�

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“Radical. Daring. A bowl-cut expertly scissored to frame a face and expose a beautiful neck is as strong a silhouette as a brilliant piece of fashion design�

Creative Head

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INSPIRED!

THERE FOR YOU

With lots of exciting developments for 2014, Wella Education is your perfect partner

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WHEN THE CLIENT sits in your chair, you make sure it’s all about them. You make them feel special and deliver exactly what they need… well, that’s what Wella wants to offer you!

The brand is dedicated to delivering first class education to keep you at the top of your game. With 135 years of experience and an education programme that trains more than 1.8 million stylists around the world every year, Wella knows a thing or two about making you the best hairdresser possible.

Looking for inspiring, high-level seminars in a location packed with the latest technology? You got it! Wella has three UK and Ireland Studios – designed for you and offering three levels of education: Essential, Exceed and Expert. The

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FIND OUT! To get the Education Book 2014, speak to your Wella account manager or call 0845 601 8128

extensive portfolio covers everything from cut and style and colour and trends to business and personal development.

There’s also a team of 130 Wella educators delivering education in the Studio network and at locations near you.

And with more than 60 inspirational guest artists and Art Teams, you’ll witness a heap of creativity and inspiration.

Take a look at the names you could see on stage and in the classroom: Mark Hayes and Bruce Masefield from Sassoon, Akin Konizi and Sean Dawson of HOB Salons, Bruno Marc of Marc Antoni, Adam Reed of Percy & Reed and Dom

Capel of Lara Johnson Lifestyle to name but a few!

Wella has been working with hairdressers to redesign Wella Education. Look out for some exciting new developments in 2014 including a reinvented Master Colour Programme and a fresh approach to its Business Education.

It’s also creating a new-look interactive app for 2014, with exciting features such as an education tracker to help salon managers plan their teams’ training. It’s time to treat yourself and invest in a better you. With Wella at your side, the possibilities are endless!

For more information about Wella Education, speak to your account manager or contact your nearest Wella Studio: 020 7637 7172 (London), 0161 834 2645 (Manchester)

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Way out west

This page: the LA Team, including the 11 UK stylists: Lacey Bastable, Wow; Susan Crozier, Reflections; Beckie Goodall, KH Hair; Karen Kennedy, Indigo Rye; Stephen Kriehn, Blue Hairdressing; Alison McRitchie, The Head Gardener; Alison Milton, Weir; Moira Mulloy, Weir; Johanna Sarkkinen, Marco Aldany; Christine Smith, Christine Smith Hairdressing; Traci Wells, KH Hair 90

Shoots

A group of stylists were given the chance to create their own LA story thanks to Sebastian Professional. Here’s how they got on…

Like most things in Los Angeles, it all began with a photoshoot. Held at the Sebastian Professional studios and mentored

by UK creative style artist for Sebastian Professional, Sean Dawson, 11 stylists flew in to California for the shoot of a lifetime.

The team were first set the task of finding and casting the right models, before they were allowed to let their creativity loose to create the final hair looks.

Each stylist got the chance to produce some fantastic shots for their portfolio, with Lacey Bastable of Wow being awarded Overall Superstar of the event and Christine Smith of Christine Smith Hairdressing taking home a Super Stylist award.

“Being part of the Sebastian Professional trip to LA was incredible,” says Lacey Bastable. “We are all so pleased with the results and can’t wait to share what we learnt and saw back in the salon.”

Adds Sean: “Working with a team of energetic and creative hairdressers in the heartland of Sebastian Professional has been really special. The end looks really are fearless and inspiring.”

Creative Head

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Want to discover more about the fun and fearless world of Sebastian Professional?

Call 01202 595700 or visit sebastianprofessional.com

Creative Head

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Looks created by (top row, from left to right): Karen Kennedy, Moira Mulloy, Lacey Bastable, (second row) Johanna Sarkkinen, Beckie Goodall and Traci Wells, Alison Milton, (third row) Alison McRitchie, Susan Crozier, Stephen Kriehn, (bottom row) Lacey Bastable, Christine Smith

ASTONANDFINCHER.CO.UK - FOR MORE INFO CALL 0870 240 2176

EVO速

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FOUND WHEREVER GOOD HAIRDRESSERS ARE STOCKED™

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UNITING FASHION AND HAIR Behind every great New York and London Fashion Week is a great hair brand. Season after season, one brand is creating fashion-led looks that are perfect to recreate in the salon. Its name? UNITE FASHION, LUXURY AND GROOMING ARE at the heart of all three of the UNITE Haircare brands: UNITE, U LUXURY and GO24•7. The founder of UNITE, Andrew Dale, wanted to “create a fashion-forward brand passionate about supporting hairdressers globally”, which is why you’ll find UNITE backstage at the some of the world’s most exciting Fashion Weeks shows, such as Helmut Lang in New York. The complete range of affordable, premium products have been designed with the upmost integrity and offer a rich educational programme for hairdressers to learn fashion-forward techniques and trends at the UNITE Academy. U LUXURY focuses on healing and revitalising, while GO24•7 is the perfect grooming range to complete a ‘real man’s’ grooming system with products for his hair, skin and body. With all three lines created by a hairdresser for hairdressers, they are exactly what clients need!

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FIRST UP Your clients want fashion-inspired haircare with salon-quality results and UNITE delivers. The wellrounded line offers all of the products a stylist needs while still keeping it concise. The three varieties of Daily Essential Cleanse and Condition sets – Volumizing, Moisturizing and Smoothing – offer targeted benefits for every hair type and include moringa seed extract – a colour-locking antioxidant – as well as botanisil, which reduces blow-drying time by up to 25 per cent.

Within the Specialty products range, you will find many celeb favourites, including Kim Kardashian’s adored 7SECONDS Condition and also the Hair Awards 2013 winner for best shampoo for oily hair, WEEKENDER. UNITE also offers a fully blendable range of styling and finishing products that are entirely free of sulphates, parabens, sodium-chloride and include session worker favourites, such as EXPANDA Dust, a translucent instant volumising powder. The range is complemented by a wide range of UNITE PRO-SYSTEM tools, offering a seemingly endless amount of options to achieve whichever look a stylist could desire, whether it be behind the chair or backstage at fashion week.

Andrew Dale, founder of UNITE, says: “I consider UNITE to be part of the fashion industry, not the beauty industry. A complete look is much more than just the hair or just the outfit, it’s cohesive and it all must go hand-in-hand.”

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Everyday luxury Get decadent with the U LUXURY line To achieve hair that shines and moves with luscious body, your clients need U LUXURY, a healing and restorative range designed with the most nourishing ingredients. The name speaks for itself – decadent formulations of crushed pearl, organic white honey, amber and pure argan oil all help to deliver true luxury.

This range features a Shampoo, Conditioner, Intense Mask Oil, D Frizz and Moisture & Shine Cream. The U LUXURY Shampoo and Conditioner infuse the hair with essential nutrients, revitalising, protecting and hydrating hair to deliver luscious, smooth and vibrant locks. The recently released U LUXURY Intense Mask, featuring antioxidants, amber and crushed walnut shell, moisturises and strengthens all hair types, while the U LUXURY Oil reduces blow-drying time, repairs hair cuticles and enhances hair colour’s vibrancy.

Get frizz under control with U LUXURY D Frizz, a lightweight conditioning spray that tames even the coarsest, colour treated, unmanageable hair. U LUXURY Moisture & Shine Cream features crushed pearl powder, known for its revitalising properties.

A rarified ingredient, it’s full of key minerals that hair craves, such as calcium, magnesium and amino acids, to protect and hydrate damaged hair.

And last but by no means least is the U LUXURY Color Protectant Hair Perfume, which protects the hair from harmful UV rays and prolongs hair colour. Each of the two fragrances available are named after Andrew Dale and his wife Brenda’s daughters: ‘Bianca’ is bursting with energetic citrus notes and ‘Alanna’ is a sophisticated, floral fragrance.

These perfumes allow your client to select the right fragrance to fit their personality and mood, day or night.

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Creative Head

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man event

GO24•7 provides real solutions for real men GO24•7 is a sophisticated range that simply focuses on what a man wants. Like his sharpest suit, GO24•7 is the full designer system for men, fulfilling his hair, skin and body needs in one collection. This range features everything from shampoo to grooming cream to face scrub, and features nutrient-rich, fuss-free ingredients that always deliver.

Paraben-free and infused with botansil, the GO24•7 shampoo and conditioner invigorate and nourish hair, encouraging fullness and growth, while the gels, waxes and texture pastes all provide differing strengths of hold and a natural-looking and long-lasting experience.

“GO24•7 Styling Cream is the most versatile men’s product ever. Whether you need fullness, hold or texture, GO24•7 has it all” James Whiffen, James Whitaker Hairdressing

To find out more about UNITE, U LUXURY and GO24•7 call 0845 034 0770 or visit unitehair.co.uk Creative Head

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Katie Holmes, Co-owner

To trial Alterna Haircare in your salon please call 01925 578000 AlternaHaircare.com

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THE MONEY MAN

PROFILE

IF NEVILLE TUCKER OPENED A BANK, IT WOULD PROBABLY BE THE BEST BANK IN THE WORLD – EVERYTHING HE TOUCHES SEEMS TO TURN TO GOLD. WE REVEAL HOW THE SON OF A GROCER CAME TO BE AT THE HEAD OF A FAMILY OF LUXURIOUS SALONS THAT SELL A LIFESTYLE EVERYONE WANTS…

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Neville Hair & Beauty Knightsbridge

Neville Hair & Beauty St Barth

Neville with Stephen Low

Nothing says ‘money’ more than the Italian luxury brand Bulgari, and holiday destination to the super-rich, St Barths in the Caribbean. And now this luxury and indulgence is intrinsically linked to hairdresser Neville Tucker.

In December 2011, he launched a new Neville Hair & Beauty salon in a super-chic venue in St Barths, and more recently unveiled an elegant extension to his brand in the Bulgari Hotel London. Quite simply, these are the premium positions for a hairdressing name.

“We saw Bulgari Hotel London as a good opportunity,” reveals Neville, whose original salon is in Knightsbridge.

“We knew it had a space that was large enough for what we wanted to do, so it seemed quite natural. It’s a similar set-up to what we had in St Barths and a great addition to the brand.

“St Barths has been very good. A lot of American clients go there and those that see our salons in London will see it in St Barths and go there because of the association,” he adds.

Despite Neville’s modesty, his decisions to open salons in St Barths and Bulgari Hotel London during difficult economic times show a man not adverse to taking a risk; and a business acumen few in the industry can match.

But this isn’t something that comes across when you meet the man. Always smiling, he’s someone you’d expect a hug from rather than sharp business advice. It’s his cheerful, calm persona that’s made him a strong mentor for the likes of Lee Stafford, Richard Ward and Paul Edmonds.

“Nothing gives me greater pleasure than to train someone and see them do well,” he admits. “I’ve always encouraged stylists to have their own personalities. You can be a successful hairdresser but if you want a good business, you have to train other people and train them well.”

Family is at the crux of everything Neville does, and one of the reasons for his success in business. “I’m fortunate because my wife Elena is very involved in the business,” he reveals. “We do have a life outside the salon but it’s always there. We don’t see that as oppressive as it’s something we enjoy. The whole team is very close.”

Business is something that has always interested Neville – his dad was a grocer and he grew up in a world of trading and retail. “I would help Dad out at the grocer’s and I realised when I went into the hairdressing industry that you have the same problems, such as staffing and management.”

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Neville Hair & Beauty Bulgari Hotel London

But it was his mother’s dream that led a young Neville to take up scissors. “My mother always wanted to be a hairdresser but never was, so she suggested it to me,” he admits. “I got a Saturday job and I loved it straightaway.”

He went on to train at Alexandre de Paris and at the Ginger Group. “Both greatly influenced my style as Alexandre was all about hair dressing, while in the ‘60s and ‘70s in the UK it was very much about Sassoon and cutting,” he says. “I aimed to combine the two.”

Neville’s first salon was with Daniel Hersheson, opening Neville Daniel salon together in the early ‘80s. Although it was a success, both men wanted to fly solo and, in 1992, Neville Hair & Beauty opened in Knightsbridge. He explains: “The success I had with Daniel paved the way in some respects for Neville’s. They’re both different but the feeling is there.”

Knowing he could achieve gave him the confidence to try it again. “But Neville Hair & Beauty has never been an overnight success. In many ways I’m pleased because I don’t think those sorts of businesses last,” he adds. “It was 20 years in the making and has grown over the years. I like to think I

Creative Head

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know what works and what doesn’t and I keep pushing the boundaries. Once a year we initiate change in the salon, such as renovating a floor or the reception area. It creates interest, while clients know they get the same service.”

Neville Hair & Beauty prides itself on having the most attractive and diverse clientele in the business, something that has enabled his business to thrive during difficult economic times. But while the group of salons is luxurious and high-end, it’s not exclusive. “We offer a range of services and starting prices. We have a good cross-section and a price range for everybody,” stresses Neville.

Although he is still in the salon at least five days a week, it’s the team that handles the editorial shoots and session work, led by creative director Stephen Low. “Ours is very much a brand and team, rather than just one person. I’m still involved on a daily basis, but I’m happy to see members of the team rise through the ranks such as Stephen, who is now running the Bulgari Hotel London salon,” he explains.

After 20 years of success you could be forgiven for thinking Neville might want to slow down. “I’ve got a five-year-old – I don’t think I’ll be retiring any time soon,” he laughs.

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Manage your hair salon with the NEW Casio EPoS Solution Android is a technology we are all used to when it comes to smartphones, the platform controls roughly half of the UK market. But what if we take this reliance on smart technology to organise our business, as well as our personal lives?

Enter the Casio VR-100 business support terminal – a device that manages your reservations, stock data, bank card payments, customer loyalty schemes, all at the point of sale.

The range of applications available through the Android platform make the VR-100 a great tool to help grow your business. And through a new partnership with CardSave, it’s available from just £2.50 per day.

For more information

T 0800 0773 231 E epos@cardsave.net

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02/08/2013 17:19

Look who's talking Find out why the web’s taking hair and fashion where it’s never been before – from the women steering the UK’s most exciting online style portals. Only at The Coterie!

Dolly Jones Editor, Vogue.co.uk

Joanna McGarry Beauty director, Neverunderdressed.com

Monday 28 October One Alfred Place, London Sponsored by

Members Only RSVP laura@the-coterie.net or call 01434 610416 The Coterie – Creative HEAD’s networking club for hair and fashion professionals Individual membership costs £160 per year. Group membership (three people) costs £320 per year

01434 610416 • creativeheadmag.com/events • @TheCoterie • facebook.com/thecoterieclub

The Coterie

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Breaking new ground

EXTENSIONS

Great Lengths is pioneering a new wave of hair enhancements ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADERS in 100 per cent human hair extensions, Great Lengths consistently sets the bar, constantly evolving its product range to meet consumer demands.

The brand understands what styles and trends filter down to your clients and gives you the products they want.

Following the rainbow hair trend, which saw A-listers such as Katy Perry turn to bold, bright colours, Great Lengths launched its range of Limited Edition shades. Likewise, to meet the high demands for ombre hair, Great Lengths introduced Flowstrands.

Now, Great Lengths has turned to enhancements, offering its products as a thickening or colouring service to appeal to a

diverse range of clients, old and new, female and male. Great Lengths’ advanced bonding formulas and application technologies allow for flexible styling that can be easily sold to salon clients. The key for the salon owner is to market each service correctly, which is another area where Great Lengths can help.

Chris King, head of training and education for Great Lengths, explains: “In addition to the mandatory two-day training course we give to stylists who want to become Great Lengths extensionists, we now offer a range of creative styling courses to expand their knowledge on the diversity of extensions.”

So, whether your client is seeking more length, more volume or more colour, be creative with Great Lengths.

Become a qualified Great Lengths extensionist – call 0113 216 3070 or visit greatlengthshair.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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Gods and mortals Apheleia by Trevor Sorbie Salons celebrates the spirit of simplicity Photography

by JAck Eames

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To see more from the shoot, visit creativeheadmag.com

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Hair Anna Chapman and Mai Ha at Trevor Sorbie, assisted by the Trevor Sorbie team.

Art direction Petros Mairoudhiou at Trevor Sorbie. Make-up Megumi Matsuno.

Styling Desiree Lederer.

The dark is rising Take a dark journey into the netherworld with Hair Labyrinth, by Pablo K端min

Photography by Phil Jeker

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WANT MORE? See incredible fashion shoots online creativeheadmag.com

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Hair and make-up Pablo K端min using Balmain Hair, Balmain Paris and Redken. Assistants Ilaria Pilia and Nicoletta Gm端r.

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p

USH THE SKY AWAY

Photography by David Mannah

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Street styling with an edge from the 2013 Toni&Guy Breakthrough Team Xtra

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To see more from the shoot, visit creativeheadmag.com

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Hair The 2013 Toni&Guy Breakthrough Team Xtra in partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel.

Art direction Gary France. Make-up Lauren Mathis. Styling Juli Molnar.

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You’ll enjoy...

Creative Head

18/9/13 10:13:19

Classified

BOOKMARKS!

COSHH

For help with

Tired of surfing the net to find what you need?

Here’s a nifty directory of websites that are worth bookmarking for future reference wella.com

Risk Assessment

in Salons

The booklet “A Guide to the Health and Safety of Salon Products” is available at Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital Hair & Beauty, Sally Hair & Beauty and other good wholesalers. Or send your address and 4 unused first class stamps to:

Discover more about the exciting new launch Color.id, and keep up-to-date with all the latest happenings from the TrendVision competition, too. A wealth of education is available to access, alongside blogs, inspiration from top Wella stylists and a host of trend collections.

The HBSA, Greenleaf House, 128 Darkes Lane, Potters Bar, Hertfordshire EN6 1AE

clynol.com

A sleek and easy-to-use guide to the products and services of this haircare giant, including stunning imagery, a complete overview of the product ranges available and information on how you, too, can benefit from Clynol’s experience.

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

The L’Oréal Professionnel website offers you instant access to the world of e-learning. As well as Inspire TV, you can browse the Inspiration Gallery of latest looks, meet the ID Artists, get detailed information on all products or update yourself on the latest trends with IT Looks A/W13.

To advertise on these pages call

schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

DAVID HAMMOND

Explore the inspirational new hair trends, see the latest catwalk shows and discover the high-performance professional products as used by stylists and session teams all over the

on 020 8467 8884 or email

david@headmag.co.uk

hairdressing world.

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18/9/13 13:42:02

RISKY BUSINESS

SELF-BELIEF AND A PRODUCT PEOPLE WANT – THAT’S THE KEY TO SUCCESS, SAYS TANGLE TEEZER’S SHAUN PULFREY AS A PERSON I’M not naturally a risk-taker – I always wait for the walk sign, I never jump a red light and I’ve never contemplated a bungee jump. But with Tangle Teezer I took my biggest calculated risk.

As a sole trader I bankrolled myself to the tune of £98,000 for a market launch, paid over three years. This was spent on research and development, intellectual properties, tooling and artwork. During this time I was still working as a colour technician four days a week, so literally every penny I earned went into this venture. The three days I wasn’t colouring hair, I was immersed in Tangle Teezer. It was tough. I didn’t buy any clothes, go on holiday, eat out – my friends thought I was bonkers.

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In 2007 I re-mortgaged my flat for £25,000 to cover the start-up of the business and turned myself into a limited company. And for me, that’s when the element of risk kicked in. I was technically unemployed and still working out of my flat – where I had to keep up repayments.

In the first year of trading, the company lost £13,000. I still saw it as an investment as the product was getting good feedback from hairdressers and the £25,000 covered this. The following year I went into profit, and by the end of the third year I got my investment back.

To me there are two kinds of risk: all-or-nothing or a calculated risk. I thought mine was the latter.

But with hindsight, launching in 2007 when we were heading into

a terrible economic climate with a handless hairbrush that no-one had heard of, along with being slammed on national television in the Dragons’ Den, it was pretty much an all-or-nothing risk!

People often think of risk as monetary, but there are other factors involved, too. I didn’t have business partners, so there was just my vision. I only had myself to blame if it all went wrong.

And my supply chain risks were reduced dramatically by being manufactured in the UK. If there’s a problem, I need only go up the M40. And if I go against the rush hour, keeping to the speed limit, I can calculate there’s very little risk.

Shaun Pulfrey is the inventor and chief executive of Tangle Teezer

CREATIVE HEAD

17/9/13 13:16:44

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