Creative HEAD Ireland May/June 2019

€7.50 MAY/JUNE 2019

In print•online•everywhere!

IRELAND

MAY/JUNE 2019 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

EXCLUSIVE INSIDE! SEVEN LOOKS FROM EUGENE SOULEIMAN

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Editor’s letter

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62 Cutting and colouring might be the bread and butter of your salon, but there’s another important service that you should be offering: extensions. Gone are the days of fake, badly-fitted wefts – the new breed of high-tech extensions are flawless, and a gold mine for your salon. Turn to page 34 to find out how savvy salons are upping their extensions game, marketing their offerings and increasing their takings. There’s plenty of inspiration in this issue, with fashion collections from Most Wanted Hair Icon Eugene Souleiman and from Stephen O Driscoll of Hugh Campbell Hair Group. And there’s still time to enter the Most Wanted and The It List Awards this year – for the first time ever, all categories are open to salons and hairdressers in Ireland.

If you dream of winning a trophy at our glamorous grand final in London this September, this is your chance! Finally, we have some more very exciting news… Salon Smart will be coming to Dublin this November – you can find all the details you need from page 20. I’ll see you there!

Anna Samson Editor

anna@alfol.co.uk

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JOIN US! LAST CHANCE TO ENTER! Most Wanted & The It List are open for entry, and for the first time ever, Irish salons and hairdressing professionals can enter EVERY CATEGORY! The deadlines are fast approaching – Most Wanted closes 13 May and The It List on 20 May – but fear not, there is still time to stake your claim on a trophy, see pages 26-29 for more. SAVE THE DATE! On 3 November we’re bringing our business networking event Salon Smart to Dublin for the day! Expect a stellar line-up of presenters and a packed agenda delivering advice and ideas to help you grow your salon business. Check out pages 20-25. Book tickets at creativeheadmag.com/events

@creativeheadmag

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May/June

WHAT’S INSIDE 26

€7.50 MAY/JUNE 2019

In print•online•everywhere!

IRELAND

MAY/JUNE 2019 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

EXCLUSIVE INSIDE! SEVEN LOOKS FROM EUGENE SOULEIMAN

001_Cover template.indd All Pages

ON THE COVER

MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST

Hair by Eugene Souleiman, photography by Adam Mark, both for Hairdressing Live (hairdressinglive.com)

It’s your last chance to get entries in for the greatest hair competition around, with all categories now open to Irish salons!

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SALON SMART

EUGENE SOULEIMAN

Creative HEAD’s incredible networking event is coming to Dublin

The Most Wanted Hair Icon shares exclusive work with Creative HEAD

EDITOR

EDITOR IN CHIEF

ART DIRECTOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DIGITAL DESIGNER

CONTRIBUTOR

JENNY BROOKS

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

DIGITAL ASSISTANT

JOANNA ANDERSEN

WRITE TO US AT:

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ANNA SAMSON

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

NICK JABBAL

DAVID HAMMOND

EVA VESTMANN

DEBORAH MURTHA KELSEY DRING

ADAM WOOD

ALISON ROWLEY

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

creativeheadmag.com CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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creativeheadmagofficial

Creative HEAD Ireland is published 6 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

Creative HEAD Ireland 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND +44 20 7324 7540 anna@alfol.co.uk

@creativeheadmag 05

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The edit Lisa McGowan and fashion stylist Maria Carton

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

Tracey-Devine ALTER EGO Smith and Colour WOWS IN Rebels hit the stage

ATHLONE

THE ALTER EGO Awakening Hair Show took place at the Sheraton Hotel in Athlone, hosted by Kreative Salon Supplies. The event took place in front of 100 hairdressers and showcased new cuts, colours and styles for S/S19. Alter Ego creative ambassador Pete Burkill, a session stylist and advocate stylist at Josh Wood Colour in London, presented his techniques in front of a captivated audience, sharing his tips and tricks along the way. Pete was joined by UK colour ambassador for Alter Ego Italy, Issie Churcher, who shared her passion for colour and revealed upcoming trends. Kreative Salon Supplies also officially launched the new Alter Ego treatment range, Made with Kindness, formulated to care for the scalp and hair. On hand to introduce the new range was brand ambassador and influencer Lisa McGowan from Lisa’s Lust List blog.

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ASP AFFINAGE SALON Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith and the first generation of ASP Colour Rebels unveiled a colourful show at Germany’s Top Hair event in Düsseldorf. Rainbow colour featuring perfectly placed shine lines, eclectic styling and colourful floral accents were blended together for a unique and contemporary collection with echoes of Frida Kahlo.

Tracey was assisted onstage by all of the ASP first generation Colour Rebels – Georgia Bell, Aimee Goodwin, Victoria Lee, Nicki Mehta, Terri Nadin, Abbie Salmon and Adam Thomas – along with UK and Ireland education manager Sara Solomon-Jones and UK ambassador Chris Munt. Tracey said: “We have spent months planning and prepping for this collection. I am so proud of what we have achieved.”

Festival season is upon us, and so ghd has launched its new limited edition festival collection in pearlescent rainbow hues. The ghd platinum+ styler (€225), gold styler (€169) and air hairdryer (€129) are the perfect tools for the summer. ghdhair.com

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

18/04/2019 12:20

QUEEN OF THE SCENE Stand out from the crowd and rule your retail this season with summer’s hottest lineup: the ghd festival collection. #queenofthescene #ghdfestival

LONG LIVE GOOD HAIR DAYS

Available for a limited time only – to become a stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call +44 (0)1924 423400.

#CHedit MY months

AHEAD What May and June have in store for...

SARAH KELLY LLOYDS HAIR

Meet the L’Oréal Professionnel Innovation Team L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HAS revealed its latest Colour Specialist Innovation Team at the Colour Specialist graduation ceremony. The new members are (above from left): Shanalise Coope (Friends Hair Company, Sutton-in-Ashfield), Elizabeth O’Brien (Toni&Guy, Stockton Heath), Amelia Hall (Frances Marshall, Sunderland, seated), Paige Hawkins (Rush Hair, Horsham), Jenn Linton (Linton & Mac, Aberdeen), Natalia Ager (Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester), Chloe Maher (Oxygen Hair Design, Beaconsfield, seated), Charlotte Roberts (Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port), Mark Sherwood (Zeba Hairdressing, Dublin) and Lizzy Ellwood (The Brooks_Hairatelier, Essex).

GET 25 PER CENT OFF YOUR TICKET TO

Dublin

Creative HEAD has teamed up with Image Skillnet to part-fund the cost of tickets to Salon Smart Dublin on 3 November. Image Skillnet is a national training network offering funding through the Department of Education and Skills, for education and networking events in the Hair and Beauty industry in Ireland. Simply sign up for free membership and purchase your ticket for €75 instead of €100. Call 071 964 0438 or visit imageskillnet.ie/event-category/events

IHF holds a night to remember Legendary hairdresser Keith Harris visited the Wella Studio in Dublin for an evening of inspiration in association with the Irish Hairdressers Federation (IHF). The icon was back in the world of hairdressing, with No Limits. The show was a celebration of his long career, with Keith sharing the stories behind his most famous images and discussing his journey from the salon to celebrity and session work. And he offered a first glimpse of his new work, shot in the UK, Italy and Russia.

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The Irish Hairdressers Federation Championships are returning to Croke Park in Dublin on 19 May for another day of inspirational styling. With 12 floor categories and four photographic categories, every team member can get involved in the competition. To find out more or to register, visit irishhairfed.com

I earned a place on the IHF Gents Star Team before Christmas so I’m getting on with my training programme.

I have amazing training days lined up over the next few weeks with Olive Tucker Lee from House of Colour and John Keegan and Sam Keatinge from The Academy Barber. I can’t wait to dig in and learn!

SEAN TAAFFE

SEAN TAAFFE GROUP

We are increasing the size of our Killarney salon from 24 seats to 43 seats. We want to take reception and retail areas out of the main salon to make it a relaxing experience for clients and we are knocking into the unit next door. Mazella and Palmer are coming to offer cutting courses too, building on previous success.

CLUB ag.com/club creativeheadm

JOIN US! Become a member of the Creative HEAD Club and get six issues of the magazine for £10, along with the chance to win opportunities and exclusive giveaways.Visit creativeheadmag.com/store for more details.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

18/04/2019 12:21

NATURICA HAIRCARE • 96% NATURAL INGREDIENTS • ECO-FRIENDLY • SULPHATE FREE • PARABEN FREE • COLOUR-SAVE FORMULAS Hennessy Hair & Beauty Ltd - THE PROFESSIONAL CHOICE

Cash & Carry: Unit 28 Doughcloyne Ind. Estate, Sarsfield Road, Wilton, Cork

www.hennessyhb.ie 021 4343436 info@hennessyhb.ie

Meet the latest addition to American Crew’s styling family, Matte Clay, with workable medium hold and a silky matte finish.

The iconic ghd IV styler has a new look for the new season.

The limited edition earth gold is resplendent in shimmering metallic – complete with matching plates!

RRP €139

+44 1924 423400 ghdhair.com

Alterego’s Energising Shampoo is formulated with nourishing minerals and essential oils, and is also vegan-friendly.

RRP FROM €18 090 662 7077 kreativesalonsupplies.com

RRP €17.50 01 886 9300 americancrew.com

ALFAPARF Milano’s The Hair Supporters is a luxury therapy line containing biomimetic quaternized keratin that can be used during colour, bleach and straightening services for major results.

IN-SALON SERVICE 045 856490 alfaparfmilano.com

Scalp facials are officially a thing!

HAIRCARE Caring for scalps – which age and MEETS SKINCARE mature just like the rest of your skin – can have a dramatic impact on the quality and appearance of hair. Thank heavens for Goldwell’s new Kerasilk Revitalize range. With three collections, all containing a shampoo and a specialised serum designed to treat individual scalp issues, your clients can take healthy, swoosh-worthy hair home with them and continue the scalp love.

Because why should skincare stop at the forehead?

Fresh from DESIGN.ME comes the Puff.ME Light Volume Kit – brilliant for extra oomph on special occasions as the weather gets warmer.

SALON PRICE €23.99 1890 253402 salon-services.com

RRP FROM €19.25 089 616 7665 trinitysalon partners.ie

Revlon Professional’s Color Excel by Revlonissimo is a creamy colour that fuses effortless shine with a spectrum of 54 shades.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01 886 9300 revlonprofessional.com

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To mark the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, ALFAPARF Milano has unveiled six new luxuriously pigmented shades in its Evolution of the Color line. Our eye is on Blonde with a Complex Dazzle...

IN-SALON SERVICE 045 856490 xpertpro.ie

Goldwell’s Topchic and Colorance lines welcome new @ELUMENATED METALLIC shades! Additions include Cool Bronze, Cool Copper and Steel Violet – or make a statement with @Pure Pigments Cool Violet.

IN-SALON SERVICE 089 616 7665

trinitysalonpartners.ie

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

18/04/2019 11:31

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Authenticity is a word that gets bandied around a lot at the moment, but one range looking to move beyond mere buzzwords is new tbh – true beautiful honest colour from Schwarzkopf Professional. For beautifully real, soft shades with subtle iridescent undertones across cool, warm and neutral colour palettes, this full colour collection is all about a subtle shift to reveal the real you. Create personalised tones with the Tone Softener, ideal for colour refreshing and glossing services. With a straightforward ingredients list including grape seed oil for natural shine, as well as delicate, powdery tones that can be mixed and matched, clients can rest easy knowing that their colour will enhance their look rather than overwhelm it.

IN-SALON SERVICE +44 800 526741 schwarzkopfpro.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT... BRILLIANT BLONDES With up to nine levels of lift in next to no time, L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 is a pre-lightener with real punch.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01 604 5918 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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Tahe Botanic Silver Shampoo removes yellowness and brassy tones from blonde or grey hair and leaves it looking sparkling.

€13.95 021 4343436 hennessyhb.ie

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#CHedit WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I started hairdressing when I was still at school, working at the weekend. At the start it was more hairdressing in the salon but I found myself becoming obsessed with the competitive and editorial sides and I knew it was what I wanted to do in life.

I remember seeing my first boldly coloured, precision cut and I thought ‘this is for me’. The creative side of hairdressing goes beyond what people outside of the trade see – we can bring an idea or a moodboard to life, all through the art of hair.

WHAT ARE YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? It was 100 per cent getting onto the IHF Star Team. After the first interview stage I realised then how much I actually wanted it. The support from all of the girls and my boss at Zinc was amazing, they had my back all of the way. I was the last name announced, which was a relief, but looking at some of the best in Irish hairdressing cheering was well worth the wait. I would recommend to every junior in the industry to enter this as the opportunities and experiences are endless.

STEPHANIE THOMPSON ZINC HAIR AND BEAUTY AGE: 25

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? That is always a hard question to answer, especially because at the moment there are so many opportunities. For me it’s all about education, competitions and photoshoots. It’s what got me obsessed with hair to begin with!

WHAT IS YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? There are too many to just mention one. It would definitely be a dream to pick up some of the iconic awards in the hairdressing industry. Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted Awards, IHF Hairdresser of the Year, L’Oréal Colour Trophy and ALFAPARF Milano Fantastic Hairdresser to name a few!

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CATEGORIES FLOOR CATEGORIES ★ Trainee Ladies Creative Blow-Dry ★ Trainee Ladies Full Fashion ★ Trainee Ladies Long Hair Up (Street Fashion) ★ Trainee Ladies Fantasy ★ Avant Garde ★ Senior Ladies Long Hair up (Classic, Non-Bridal) ★ Senior Ladies Trend Cut Full Fashion ★ Senior Ladies Editorial

★ ★ ★ ★

Senior Ladies Fantasy Mens Fade Master Mens Classic Barbers Cut Mens Fashion Image

PHOTOGRAPHIC CATEGORIES ★ Editorial - Individual Entry ★ Colour - Individual Entry ★ Gents - Individual Entry ★ Artistic Team Collection Team Entry, 4 Images

SUNDAY MAY 19TH | CROKE PARK - DUBLIN Register online for this year’s Irish Hairdressers Federation Championships from March 2019 www.irishhairfed.com Untitled-3 1

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LIFE LESSONS

KEVIN BODENHEIM MOYO

Keep it simple. We often feel that we have to do more to create that perfect look, but more often than not, less is more.

Simplicity to me means honesty which is free from all artifice – the ultimate sophistication!

Respect is key. I always try to treat others as I would want to be treated. The greatest tribute to another is to listen and hear what they have said.

Recognise self-worth. All of us have a talent and we need to celebrate those things that make other people’s lives better.

Do it right the first time. Be sure about exactly what people expect and be clear about what is achievable! Ensure that both parties are 100 per cent clear of what the final result will be.

The importance of honesty and transparency. I think it’s of paramount importance to be honest in all interpersonal relationships so that there can be no misunderstanding or miscommunication. This sometimes means telling people something they might not want to hear, but might need to hear.

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THE BUSINESS EDIT

HOW A SABBATICAL CAN IMPROVE YOUR STAFF LOYALTY THE LOSS OF a valued team member is a situation that every salon owner worries about, but to a degree it is unavoidable.

However, some salons are reshaping their policies and allowing staff to leave for a while and then come back. These business owners and managers have found offering sabbaticals and career breaks not only grows their staff’s loyalty, it expands creative horizons and benefits business.

At Creative HEAD’s Salon Smart event in London, owner of The Boutique Atelier in Cheshire, Richard Phillipart, revealed that one of the secrets to his strong team is allowing some staff time away from the salon. “My experience has found that when staff are about 25 years old there is a high dropout rate,” he revealed. “In my salon we offer a career break programme. We encourage team members to take a step back and try something else for a while – this builds loyalty. The programme is for staff of all ages; one stylist at a time can take four to six weeks out, with their job guaranteed when they come back.”

Kara O’Shea, general manager at Sean Taaffe salons, also encourages her staff to take career breaks. “At the moment, three of our girls have taken a year out to go to Australia, and another stylist is spending some time in Dubai. It’s a bit of a risk for clients, as they can be resistant to change, but we really endorse it. It might be hard for smaller salons to manage, but with 65 employees across the Sean Taaffe salon group, we are always able to reshuffle and move things around to compensate – and there are often new people joining, people coming back after maternity or coming back after a break.”

And it’s a similar story at Ikon in Cork, where owner Valerie Finnegan Cahill and her staff value flexibility. “We do try to accommodate time out whenever possible,

either for personal or professional reasons.

We have an agreed understanding that as long as it’s respected, which it is, it works for everyone. We feel it is good for the individual and the team, it helps to build a strong culture and a feeling of inclusion.”

Richard Phillipart wholly recommends his system to salon owners. “The team member develops as a person and grows their confidence and communication skills,” he explains. “They gain a sense of curiosity and become more committed to the salon brand, which stops them becoming jaded.”

“The benefits come from seeing the bigger picture and how it’s helping to build our business culture at Ikon, so wherever possible we try to accommodate,” says Valerie. “We realised that culture is one of the few sustainable business advantages that we could grow and develop in these challenging times. Investing in our people is key to our success.”

And Kara has even found that staff members who take some time out may become educated in ways they can share with the rest of the team. “Often they do a bit of both travelling and working when they’re away, so they learn things they can bring back to the rest of the team,” she says. “It also creates a sense of loyalty when they do come back. We encourage it – as employers we need to support our staff and then they will be happy working with us.”

However, Valerie acknowledges that it’s a balancing act. She says: “You have to manage the challenges that emerge between trying to create the ideal culture and the practicalities of managing a business.

“So, whenever you have to refuse, there needs to be an absolute understanding that this decision is made in a fair and balanced way, and it needs to be supported in order to implement harmony and manage the everyday running of the salon.”

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

18/04/2019 11:30

VEGAN FRIENDLY

BLEND OF PRECIOUS ESSENTIAL OILS AND VITAMINS

UP TO

99%

NATURAL INGREDIENTS

100% MADE IN ITALY FREE FROM PARABENS, SULPHATES, SLS, SLES, PARAFFIN WAXES

www.kreativesalonsupplies.com

#CHedit

Inside story CROWN, KILKENNY

Catherine Healy’s pink paradise might be an Instagram dream now, but the salon once looked very different. “The space was dull, dreary and looked unloved,” she says. “But it was in the perfect location surrounded by hotels, car parks and offices.” In just eight weeks, the complete interior was transformed into Catherine’s Crown vision: “It’s a space that makes me feel good, somewhere I would want to be and there’s a real sense of beauty, calmness and a little sparkle.” Having travelled to many salons around Ireland and overseas for inspiration, Catherine chose to have her furniture manufactured in Amsterdam. There’s a communal table for those who want to be sociable and big windows so they can watch the world go by, but she also ensured there was a private space for wig fittings or anyone who doesn’t like the openness. The outside of the salon is painted candy pink and decorated with beautiful flowers by award-winning florist Lamber de Bie. The result is an Instagram goldmine. “Social media is a huge part of our lives so I wanted good backdrops to take Instagrammable pictures. Word of mouth is the best way to get known and we knew our name needed to be out there.”

HOT BUYS

ECO COMFORT

The Eufemia chair from Maletti is flexible, cushioned with eco-leather upholstery and is available with a choice of bases.

RRP FROM €615 gainfort.com

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JUST RELAX

Salon Ambience’s Luxury shampoo unit can be customised in two-tone variations from a choice of 50 colours and offers shiatsu massage for an incredible backwash experience.

PROMO PRICE €1,599 (UNTIL 31 AUGUST, NORMALLY €1,999) capitalhairandbeauty.ie

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

17/04/2019 14:42

ALFAPARFMILANO.COM

make me eternal.

Semi di Lino, the original treatment line for luminous hair, has been renewed and enhanced. Now containing Urban Defence Pro, a multi-function biotechnological complex, providing advanced protection against stress from pollutants and caring for your hair day by day, for an extraordinary result.

Because eternal beauty is every woman’s dream.

THE NUMBER ONE PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE BRAND IN IRELAND

For more information, please contact your ALFAPARF Milano Account Manager, or call (045) 856490.

ALFAPARF Milano Ireland, Unit Z, M7 Business Park, Newhall, Naas W91 VY82, Co. Kildare.

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05/04/2019 15:38

IN SESSION MEN 20/05/19 LONDON

MEET THE GENTS MASTERING MALE GROOMING – WATCH THEM WORKING LIVE ON SET! GET INSIDER INSIGHT, TIPS AND TECHNIQUES!

JODY TAYLOR

He regularly collaborates with titles like GQ and Esquire, has worked with brands from Louis Vuitton to Dior and notable names such as Callum Turner and Conor McGregor. AND he’s our 2018 Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist.

CLUB ag.com/club

creativeheadm

LIAM CAMPBELL

From a stint in the British Army to freelance barber and creator of Brother Barber, Liam’s trade has taken him from Australia to India, backstage on The X Factor and styling for the likes of Diesel and Ted Baker.

HOST: LEE KYNASTON Steering conversation is Lee Kynaston, style and grooming journalist for the likes of Balance, Stella, Fashion Beans, Mr Porter and The Daily Telegraph.

SINGLE TICKET £30 CLUB MEMBERS PAY JUST £20!

BUY ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie OR CALL +44 1434 610416 ss PRO Includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from BaByli

THE COTERIE: IN SESSION MEN MONDAY 20 MAY 2019 7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON 018_Coterie.indd 1

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Stay true to yourself Forget homogenised beauty and following the herd. Embrace subtlety and authenticity with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new colour range, tbh – true beautiful honest

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Did you know that Millennials and Generation Z now represent more than half of all salon customers? Gen Z alone will reportedly make up 40 per cent of all consumers by 2020, according to research by the Fast Company. Millennials are known to be more socially conscious, individually minded and they crave experiences, while Generation Z adds a focus on end results.

What underpins both of these demographics is the search for authenticity – casting aside superficial trends that don’t speak to them, favouring brands that keep it simple or experts who are genuine. It’s a mindset, not a fad.

This drive for self-expression and authenticity resonates with modern salons; they need something real they can share with their clients. That’s why Schwarzkopf Professional has created a fresh, innovative colour line – to help colourists to create true art and delight their clients with an authentically beautiful result…

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Meet tbh – true beautiful honest

True illumination of the natural highs and lows in hair, shimmering powdery tones and an honest approach to the ingredients and formulations LET’S SEE WHAT’S INSIDE…

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Warm NATURAL HAIR CONTAINS a multitude of beautiful tones, highs and lows: tbh – true beautiful honest shades respect and reflect this, giving natural highs and lows with 100 per cent multidimensional colour. Think subtle, think soft, think real.

With gentle shimmering and powdery tones split into three shade groups – natural, cool and warm – you can customise and craft uniquely beautiful, authenticlooking shades by mixing and matching. Taking pride in its formulas, the tbh – true beautiful honest brand philosophy is built upon the transparency of its ingredients. Formulations combine up to 92 per cent of naturallyderived ingredients, complemented by the additional performance drivers required to guarantee reliable colour results.

Create luxurious primary reflections muted by gentle rose undertones SKP Gatefold V2.indd 4

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Natural

Mimic natural hues with a soft touch of chocolate and clean neutrals SKP Gatefold V2.indd 5

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Cool

Weave in modern, smoky hues to counteract and perfect the underlying warmth SKP Gatefold V2.indd 6

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Keep it simple *Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction. Always perform an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before each colouration.

If you have ever experienced a reaction after colouring the hair, you must not colour. Strictly follow the safety instructions and consult schwarzkopfpro.com

tbh – true beautiful honest doesn’t overcomplicate its ingredients

Grape seed oil Leaves hair with a natural shine

50 per cent less ammonia Helps preserve the hair’s integrity

HEP

This special ingredient features in all of the carefully crafted colours, designed for soft and powdery nuances, as it’s known to help reduce the risk of developing allergies*

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Maximise your creative colour opportunities with the tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener. Mix with any shade and IGORA VIBRANCE Activator 1.9% /t (1:1:1) to perform a colour refreshing, glossing service

16/04/2019 10:04

Colour should always be true, beautiful, honest

“The new tbh – true beautiful honest range is so refreshing. What’s fantastic about the range is that it not only creates a natural look, it also includes key natural ingredients in its formulas – argan oil, macadamia oil and shea butter. The 26 colours allow us to offer a completely bespoke service option with its huge colour palette. I love how it works with the hair’s natural highs and lows, yet thanks to the natural oils it creates this amazing shine!”

TIM SCOTT WRIGHT

Tim Scott Wright at The Hair Surgery Schwarzkopf Professional UK and tbh – true beautiful honest ambassador

Discover your authentic colour self with tbh – true beautiful colour from Schwarzkopf Professional.

For more information, call +44 (0)800 526741 or visit schwarzkopfpro.com

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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE

EDUCATION

EVENTS

INSPIRATION

CREATIVE HEAD STORE

COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

Raspberry pink flashes through a peachy haze – check out Ginger Lemon Hair’s ‘Rhodochrosite’, inspired by the crystal colours of the rare mineral

In conversation with… Robert Eaton.

Press play on our latest film, where we get tonal with the Wella Professionals technical director

creativeheadmag.com

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Blue and green should never be seen? Stuff that! Tearing up the rule book is all the rage, so we explore the trend for ugly-beautiful colour work

creativeheadmagofficial

The Coterie descended on Dublin for the first time! A stellar line-up headed to the Emerald Isle to share their stories – catch up now

@creativeheadmag

16/04/2019 16:47

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS

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18/04/2019 09:39

BRILLIANT BUSINESS NETWORKING

DUBLIN SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2019

09.00-17.00 Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Golden Lane, Dublin 8

Tickets €100 plus VAT*

BOOKING NOW

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL +44 (0)1434 610944 *VAT at UK rate of 20 per cent

@CREATIVEHEADMAG #SALONSMARTIRE Image Skillnet offers part-funding for education and networking events in the hair and beauty sector in the Republic of Ireland. To benefit from a 25 per cent saving on the cost of your Salon Smart ticket, sign up for FREE membership and purchase your ticket either over the phone on 071 964 0438, or online at imageskillnet.ie/event-category/events

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TONY HEFFERNAN AND DANIELLE KENNEDY LLOYDS HAIR

RICHARD PHILLIPART

THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER

DYLAN BRADSHAW

DYLAN BRADSHAW

PAUL PERCIVAL AND ADAM REED PERCY & REED

GREAT NAMES SHARED EXPERIENCES CREATIVE HEAD’S SELL-OUT BUSINESS NETWORKING CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENTFOR FORSALON SALON OWNERS OWNERS AND EVENT ANDMANAGERS MANAGERS

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DAVID CAMPBELL

HOUSE OF COLOUR

SABRINA HILL

KOPPER HAIR SALON

CASEY COLEMAN CHAIR SALONS

PAUL, ANGIE AND RICHARD DROMGOOLE ZEBA HAIR

SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2019, DUBLIN

Tickets €100 plus VAT*

BOOKING NOW

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL +44 (0)1434 610944 *VAT at UK rate of 20 per cent

@CREATIVEHEADMAG #SALONSMARTIRE Image Skillnet offers part-funding for education and networking events in the hair and beauty sector in the Republic of Ireland. To benefit from a 25 per cent saving on the cost of your Salon Smart ticket, sign up for FREE membership and purchase your ticket either over the phone on 071 964 0438, or online at imageskillnet.ie/event-category/events

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CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS

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IDEAS ADVICE INSPIRATION COMING TO IRELAND! SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2019, DUBLIN

Tickets €100 plus VAT*

BOOKING NOW

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL +44 (0)1434 610944 *VAT at UK rate of 20 per cent

@CREATIVEHEADMAG #SALONSMARTIRE Image Skillnet offers part-funding for education and networking events in the hair and beauty sector in the Republic of Ireland. To benefit from a 25 per cent saving on the cost of your Salon Smart ticket, sign up for FREE membership and purchase your ticket either over the phone on 071 964 0438, or online at imageskillnet.ie/event-category/events

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CLOSING SOON! 2019

SALON SESSION STARS

AWARDS CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED D EXCELLENCE CELEBRATE AWESOME TALENT AN. THE 2019 IN ALL AREAS OF HAIRDRESSING ULD THE STARS COMPETITION IS NOW OPEN – WO STAND UP? OF SALON AND SESSION PLEASE

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NEW! ALL CATEGORIES NOW OPEN TO THE UK AND IRELAND CATEGORY SPONSOR

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS NEW!

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

For a stylist looking after clients at a salon while busy building ‘Brand Me’

MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST

For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating standout work in men’s hair

CREATIVE TALENT

For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise

BUSINESS THINKER

For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business

COLOUR EXPERT

For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise

HAIR TREND

For the best on-trend image of the year

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large

SESSION STYLIST

For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion (by nomination only)

HAIR ICON

For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2019 (by nomination only)

CATEGORY SPONSOR

TEAM AWARDS NEW!

BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON

For a new small salon with a unique sense of style

BEST SALON TEAM For salon teamwork at its best

BEST LOCAL SALON

For a salon that best serves its local community

BEST NEW SALON

For a new or revamped salon that turns heads

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE For a salon that delivers top customer service

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COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 13 MAY ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19 QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK

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!

N O O S G N I S O CL EW UK N G IN IT C X E T S O M E H T SEARCH FOR CREATIVE HEAD’S YOU HAVE IT? O D .

N O IS S R TA S G IN S S AND IRISH HAIRDRE

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WORK HARD. DREAM BIG. GET NOTICED!

R UNDER O 0 3 D E G A S R E S S E R D IR FOR HA ND! A L E IR D N A K U E H T O T N PE ALL CATEGORIES NOW O THE RISING STAR

For a young salon assistant who’s enthusiastic, hardworking and fast improving – a new team star!

TO BE NOMINATED BY THE SALON OWNER OR MANAGER

THE FASHIONISTA

For a young stylist making a mark in session circles

THE ENTREPRENEUR

For a young salon owner who has created an exciting and successful business

THE VISIONARY

For a young stylist or technician who is pushing creative boundaries

THE IT GUY/GIRL

Two trophies – one for a guy, one for a girl – awarded to a young hairdressing professional excelling in multiple areas of their work and destined for greatness

event

COMPETITION CLOSES MONDAY 20 MAY ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST FOLLOW THE ACTION @CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT19 QUESTIONS? CALL +44 (0)1434 610940 OR EMAIL EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK

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L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

THE NEXT

LEVEL

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2019 Irish Semi Final saw the brightest hairdressers in the country show off their skills and artistic vision at The Royal Dublin Society. Competing in three categories – the STAR Award, Men’s Image and the coveted L’Oréal Colour Trophy – competitors had only 30 minutes to recreate their looks. The elite judging panel overseeing proceedings comprised industry experts Claire Chell, creative colour director at Francesco Group; Mark Woolley, founder and global creative director at Electric Hairdressing; Nathan Walker, international technical director at Trevor Sorbie; Siobhan Jones, creative director and cofounder of Rose & Wild; and Alan Edwards, art director and co-founder of Alan Edwards Salons. While the judges deliberated, attendees were treated to a vibrant hair show

by Jason Hall of Jason Hall Hairdressing. From hundreds of entries the judges selected their favourite looks to go through to the prestigious L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final in Dublin on 27 May. Turn the page to cast your eye over all the looks to make the final, and see if you can predict the winners!

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#LCT19

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L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD

Brown Sugar Ranelagh

Dry & Fly, Wicklow Street

Foxy Hair Studio

Hugh Campbell Academy

Marbles Castleroy

Marbles Colour Zone

Occasions Naas

Oxygen Hair Design

Peter Mark College

Studio 20

Style Club North Earl St

The Hair Shop

The Space Academy

The Space Hair Soul Beauty

Toni&Guy Academy

Toni&Guy Blackrock

Toni&Guy Clarendon St

Toni&Guy Malahide

Wildflower

Zeba South William Street

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#LCT19

STAR AWARD

Style Club North Earl St

MEN’S IMAGE

The Space Academy

Space Hair Soul Beauty

Toni&Guy Malahide

Wildflower

Atelier M

Cats Hair Salon

Origin 2 Hair Design

Saints Colour Specialist & Beauty

The Academy Barber Castlevillage

The Academy Barber Celbridge

The Academy Barber Maynooth

The Academy Belle

Toni&Guy Clarendon St

Toni&Guy Dundrum

Toni&Guy Malahide

Zeba South William St

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Give me

more

EXTENSIONS CAN NOT ONLY BUILD UP LACKLUSTRE HAIR – THEY CAN ALSO BOOST YOUR BUSINESS, CAUSE A STORM ON SOCIAL MEDIA AND RAISE YOUR PROFILE. ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF THEM? HAIR EXTENSIONS HAVE exploded in popularity in recent years. Thanks to new innovations in design, better training and a better understanding of what they can achieve, they have shaken off their WAGs-only reputation and cemented themselves as an important service in any modern salon. According to research by Arizton, this trend is set to continue, with the worldwide wig and hair extension market on track to exceed $10 billion (€886 million) by 2023.

If ever there was a time to get on board, it’s now. However, an increase in demand for extensions has led to more salons than ever trying to entice both new and existing customers into enhancing their hair – so how can you ensure your salon stands out for all the right reasons?

“I see every client as a possible extensions client in some way,” says Edwina Hayes, Great Lengths educator and owner of Streetlife Hair in Kilkenny. “I even have clients with long, thick hair who love something extra to give their hair better hold and different texture. A client whose hair is

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super-short can begin a plan to lengthen the front and we discuss with them a time line of future work to get them more length. This planning makes them a long-term client.”

Emma Leung, co-owner of Kelly Leung Hair Design in Malahide, agrees that extensions can not only enhance hair, but also solve or avoid common problems. “A lot of people like to experiment with colour and using Great Lengths is great for this as it doesn’t compromise the condition of the hair,” she says. “And they’re great for wedding hair as well – brides love to go the extra mile.”

Valerie Patterson of MASK HAIR in Dublin agrees that extensions are big business, especially if you can offer something subtle that suits all ages. “Most of my clients have extensions but they are undetectable,” she reveals.

“I specialise in quality and a ‘less is more’ look, for professional ladies who want to have expensive hair that still looks natural. Many of my clients have fine hair and want to look like they have fuller hair while minimising damage.”

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Great Lengths

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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Kelly Leung Hair Design

According to Valerie, the days of fake-looking extensions are over – clients love their look to be seamless.

“I offer different textures and choices of tapes and keratin bonds,” she explains. “I will look at a new client and decide what is right – we use ombré, straightening treatments, perms and toning to ensure that the extensions will match the existing hair perfectly.”

Educating your team members is key to providing these services, because the better they are, the better they can communicate with clients. “It’s important to have the knowledge and understanding of your clients’ needs and how to address them,” says Emma. “Make sure all your experts are fully trained and on top of the most up-to-date techniques available.”

Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton salon group in the UK, believes extensions create a real buzz within the salon – just seeing them being fitted is exciting enough to get people asking questions.

“We currently have five extensions experts between our salons and we find clients are very interested,” he explains. “We usually apply them in the main salon space – which creates a lot of interest in itself.”

In fact, at Bellissimo in Limerick, stylists will often refer their clients to an expert for an additional service. “Extensions have helped us by offering another add-on option for our clients,” says extensions specialist Sinead Bannerton.

“A stylist may refer them to me to have an add-on service, helping us to reach a broader spectrum of people.

I also show them how manageable the bonds are and how to style them.”

So, how can you ensure your clients know how amazing your extensions offerings are? “A super

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MASK HAIR

Streetlife Hair

way to draw in a new client and entice them into more permanent extensions is to offer clip-ins or Great Lengths Tapes,” suggests Edwina. “These options showcase the possibilities to someone who might be time-poor. They will then hopefully get a taste for more permanent extensions! Another way to drum up extension business is to offer a few complimentary bonds as this allows the client to get a feel for them and see the difference a few can make, especially around the face and over the ear where the hair can be finer.”

As with all hairdressing services, social media plays an important part in dispelling the myths of hair

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extensions and enticing new clientele. “I use social media to share my ‘before and after’ extensions images – clients tell me they love being featured and it’s usually how new clients find me,” says Valerie.

Edwina agrees that Instagram can change a client’s perception. “‘Before and after’ photos and videos on social media are a very efficient way to drive business.

A customer may see a picture that looks like their current hair and is drawn to the transformation.”

Emma swears by the impact of not only seeing extensions but touching them, too. “I always talk about them and have pieces in the salon as an example to show your client exactly how they look and feel is a great, too. I also think that having a colleague wearing them is a good idea to show how they look in real life.”

“Another great tool for showing what extensions can do is a transformation book, where we present the transformations we have created in salon to our clients,” says Robert Eaton. “We often use moodboards and mannequin heads and have also worked with Great Lengths to create short videos with influencers who share their experience on how they love what extensions have done for them.” It’s time to invest in extensions and let them bulk up your business.

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World leading ethical hair extensions

To enquire about joining the elite and becoming a Great Lengths certiďŹ ed stylist visit GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST

A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES

IT’S GOOD TO TRY SOMETHING NEW. THAT’S WHERE KAO SALON BRANDS COME IN – RECENTLY LAUNCHED IN IRELAND AND REPRESENTED BY TRINITY SALON PARTNERS, THE RENOWNED PORTFOLIO OF PRODUCTS, EDUCATION AND EVENTS CAN HELP YOU ACHIEVE YOUR DREAMS…

MEET THE BRANDS

GOLDWELL

Goldwell has partnered with hairdressers for more than 70 years, enabling them to accomplish their creative and business ambitions. Innovative and highperforming, the brand gives hairdressers the products needed to excel at their craft, from colour to professional care and styling products. Help your clients fall in love with their hair again.

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KMS

From the very beginning in 1976, KMS has aimed to research, manufacture and market the finest haircare products.

KMS collects ideas from the most inspiring places in the world – runways, fashion districts and the streets – and uses this inspiration to create professional products organised into START. STYLE. FINISH. categories.

ORIBE

Oribe blends craftsmanship, performance and decades of styling experience. Clients feel the difference of these high end, luxurious products, packed with innovative technology.

Thanks to the fine fragrances used, Oribe hair products create a sensuous and invigorating experience for the hair and the spirit.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

INNOVATIONS IN COLOUR COLOUR CAN SYSTEM

ELUMEN

Unique to Goldwell, the Colour Can system is designed to enable quick and highly accurate measuring of colour, dramatically reducing application costs and wastage. Air-tight closures lead to a longer shelf life, too.

Elumen by Goldwell is an intensive hair colour range that is the perfect paint box for colour creatives. The pigments are drawn deep inside the hair and colour has a gentle repairing effect on structure, reflecting light for brilliant shine.

COME TO LIFE AT GOLDWELL EVENTS

Color Zoom invites creative hairdressers to create their interpretation of Goldwell’s trends – if you’ve ever dreamed of being in the industry spotlight, then let the Color Zoom Challenge be your stage. Global Zoom is the grand final of Goldwell Color Zoom competition. Hosted in a different country each year, stylists from around the world showcase their skills in front of thousands to be crowned a Global Winner.

The Hub Network is an exclusive event which takes place annually at a luxury overseas destination and is hosted especially for Kao Salon Division’s salon business networking club members.

@PURE PIGMENTS These high definition direct dye additives from Goldwell open up a whole new dimension of colour results. Mix them up and layer shades for a multi-tonal result, add an intense boost to existing colour or create a soft, shimmering wash.

“We found the switch over to Goldwell flawless.

We had a lot of support while changing over and the ongoing education has helped make it a really good fit for us. Working with Goldwell is second to none” ROY KENNEDY, BLACK AMBER SALON GROUP

Ready to make the move? To join the Kao family or find out more, contact Trinity Salon Partners Terry McGovern 089 616 7665; Mark Cullen 087 709 4310; Ciaran McMahon 087 398 4745, or visit trinitysalonpartners.ie CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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Bring on the sparkle

It’s no secret that colour is having a moment – from the runway to the salon chair, covetable colour is big business.

And now you can up your game with Revlon Professional’s new Color Excel by Revlonissimo. It’s the range that will make your colour services shine brighter than ever

A rainbow of colours Color Excel comes in 54 shades, including four new tones, so there’s a shade for every client, from daring brights to subtle washes of colour. The spectrum of on-trend colours and six new Revlon Professional colouring services will suit every kind of colour client and even attract new ones.

Perfect for getting creative

The results last for up to 20 washes, so Color Excel is perfect for low-commitment colouring and colour correction. There’s even a new 000 clear shade to revamp tired hair or create customised pastel effects.

Gorgeous formula

The new formula is nourishing and creamy, and is easily applied like a hair mask. Containing cotton extract to protect the hair fibre, it also has a delicious fragrance for a luxurious and relaxing colouring experience.

Incredible shine

And the best bit about Color Excel? The hypergloss finish leaves hair feeling super smooth and silky – perfect for reflecting light and creating dazzling shine.

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Mark Leeson GLOBAL ARTISTIC AMBASSADOR FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL What do you like most about the new Color Excel by Revlonissimo?

“Definitely the shine! It’s incredible – clients love how healthy it makes their hair look and I love how it shows off our salon colour work.”

How has the formula improved?

“It’s creamy, which means you can be so much more precise with colour application and much faster, too.”

How does Color Excel help move clients through their colour journey?

“The blend of low-commitment colour and playful shades like peach, pink, purple, green and clear means it delivers choice and change for clients that like to reflect seasonal fashion. It’s also ammonia-free and the Care Complex has cotton extract to fortify condition so the hair isn’t compromised.”

How does Color Excel support creativity expression?

“The ability to mix colour between 54 shades and the fact you can customise the colour intensity means a limitless colour palette to play with.”

Which clients is Color Excel right for?

“Everyone! From people trying colour for the first time to those colour chameleons who like to follow trends.”

Explore the world of Revlon and share your creations

#shineisthe newcolour

To embrace the shine and find out more, call 01 886 9300 or visit revlonprofessional.com CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

THE NEXT GENERATION

OF BLONDE FORGET WHAT YOU KNOW ABOUT TRANSITIONING CLIENTS TO BLONDE. LIFT COLOUR BY AN ASTONISHING NINE LEVELS WITH SPEED AND EASE, THANKS TO NEW BLOND STUDIO 9 LEVELS BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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After

Before

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THE HIGH LIFE

BLOND STUDIO 9 LEVELS FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL OFFERS UP TO NINE LEVELS OF LIFT WHILE CARING FOR YOUR BLONDE BY IMPROVING COSMETIC FEEL ON THE HAIR ARE YOU READY to live the high life? There’s no need to schedule multiple appointments over multiple days to help a brunette realise her blonde ambition anymore – free yourself and your client and create incredible blondes with an accelerated lift. The innovative powder formula of

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Blond Studio 9 Levels means clients who used to fear going blonder can rest easy. The secret to the increase in improved hair cosmetic qualities lies in the formula’s special oil-based developers that push the lightening power to the maximum, while maintaining optimal hair integrity.

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LET THERE BE LIGHT WITH SUCH VERSATILITY, THE BLOND STUDIO 9 LEVELS RANGE FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL IS HERE TO BRING A RAY OF LIGHT INTO YOUR COLOUR WORK DISCOVER JUST HOW FLEXIBLE L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 Levels is for yourself. With a versatile formula to suit every technique you can think of, Blond Studio 9 Levels is ready to do the heavy lifting for you.

Before

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It’s quick, effective and protects the integrity of the strands and has been designed to stay precisely where you place it. No drips, no mess, no fuss. Just quick saturation for a neutral, clean blonde result.

After

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After

Before

After

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Before

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FINISHING

TOUCH *Can be up to 20 minutes depending on the desired result

THE FRENCH GLOSS SERVICE USING DIA LIGHT IS THE PERFECT NEXT STEP FOR A BESPOKE BLONDE

WITH LIGHTENING UNDER control, turn your attention to toning for the most fashionforward results. The perfect partner to your new pre-lightened base, L’Oréal Professionnel has designed a new French Gloss service for that multi-dimensional, effortlessly chic finish. Powered by Dia Light, its unique acidic gel-cream formula creates optimal glossing.

Neutralise, personalise and boost shine – clients can enjoy glass-like reflections from just a 10-minute application.*

ACIDIC TONING TECHNOLOGY

Dia Light’s unique pH formulation balances hair colour after pre-lightening services, encouraging optimal closing of the cuticle for beautiful shine and condition.

PERSONALISED FINISH

Neutralise the result and personalise the blonde, bring shine and take care of the hair with Dia Light. The acidic gel-cream formula gives the optimal glossy finish.

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“One of the best products in colour; really glossy, easy to use, true to tone” SIOBHAN JONES ROSE & WILD, LONDON

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Discover new blonde possibilities with L’Oréal Professionnel. Call 1800 535616 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk.

Want to boost your blonde skills? Then discover online education platform Access at lorealaccess.com/uk @lorealpro #lorealproire CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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E L P O E P R O F K “I DON T WOR ” L I A T Y N O P A T WHO WAN ii

I

ii

PHOTOGR APHY BY ADAM MARK

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YOU DON’T GET THE PERFECT BLOW-DRY OR HAIR-UP FROM EUGENE SOULEIMAN. YOU GET A WHOLE NEW WAY OF LOOKING AT BEAUTY, WITH HAIR THAT’S RAW, ORGANIC AND SUBVERSIVELY SENSUAL. CREATIVE HEAD SITS BACK AND ENJOYS THE RIDE SEVEN STYLES. Six hours. But who cares about the clock? When you’re watching Eugene Souleiman at work, trust me – you want every moment to last a lifetime.

This exclusive masterclass was held in a central London studio in front of a starstudded audience – guests included Angelo Seminara, Tim Hartley, Anthony and Pat Mascolo and Eugene’s former boss, Trevor Sorbie. It was the current Most Wanted Hair Icon’s chance to share his creative process and a rare opportunity for us to watch him work live, recreating some of the mindblowing looks he’s delivered over the years for designers like Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto and, more recently, John Galliano.

We learned that he loves contrast in hair, likes his styles to look imperfect (he says “weather-beaten” a lot), works instinctively, and likes it when accidents happen. “I work with designers who throw curveballs at you, so you have to re-think everything you’ve been taught about hairdressing,” he explained.

“It pushes you to think in a different way about hair and that takes you to interesting places – places you’d never have thought of otherwise. I love that challenge.”

For Eugene, creating the hair for a show starts with the designer and he loves it when he’s asked to do outlandish things. “I’m all about turning it up. I’m not quiet, I’m engaged. I’m in it to be creative because for me it’s a release and I love that exchange of working with creative people,” he says.

“I want to work with visionaries and artists, people who don’t just make clothes to sell but who have a dream and a vision. I feed off their energy.”

Eugene’s training shines through in every aspect of his work and he fully acknowledges that it’s been his strength over the years.

“I’m no stranger to getting the block out and practising,” he says. “I do that a lot. As a session hairdresser you’re doing lots of different things all of the time, so you don’t get to focus on one specific skill. When I feel that

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Look 1 my braiding or my cutting isn’t up to scratch, I go away and practice. You can’t be a one-trick pony in this game. You’ve got to have as much ammunition as possible.”

It’s this absolute creative focus, mixed with his easy-going, down-to-earth nature, that inspires utter devotion in people – and a long line of names queuing up to be on his team.

Selection for those top spots tends to be organic, and Instagram has become a useful recruitment tool. “People contact you and you create some dialogue and every season someone comes along who I think is interesting and I think would fit in,” he says.

“I do like everyone to have their ‘thing’, to be who they are. I don’t like everyone to be the same person. I like a mix, I like the variety, and it means they all help each other out.

“I’ve always worked as part of a team, and for me it’s all about the collaboration. I’m very lucky. I work with people like Pat [McGrath] and Val [Garland] who share my sensibility, but you also have to have some not-great experiences or failures because these lead you to a whole new place creatively. You’ve got to think of the big picture, not just what happens on the shoot that day.”

Even after a career spanning three decades, you can tell Eugene is going through something of a creative renaissance. He is fired up, working with people he can spark with, and – tellingly – wanting to challenge himself. “My anxiety about not being good enough is what motivates me,” he says.

“Journalists often ask me where I go to for inspiration – but they’re completely missing the point! I don’t need to go anywhere for inspiration because it’s everywhere around me. The mistake people make is to get too far ahead of themselves and try and predict where they’ll find an idea – like in a gallery. It’s so much more important to feel what you’re doing. To believe in what you’re doing and enjoy it.”

And with that, the final look is done. The audience is on their feet, rising as one in response to the magic they’ve just witnessed – hair like they’ve never seen before, from the futuristic and whimsical to the stripped-back and simple, and all created by the trailblazing, risk-taking genius that is Eugene Souleiman.

EUGENE SOULEIMAN’S MASTERCLASS WAS ORGANISED BY HAIRDRESSING LIVE

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THIS LOOK COMBINES techniques from two Alexander McQueen shows – The Birds and The Widows of Culloden. Hair was rick-rack pinset at the back and brushed out to create as much static as possible. On the top, the hair was blow-dried completely flat (“squashed”) to the head, while at the sides, hair was sectioned, backcombed and rolled around a pair of chopsticks to create abstract-shaped buns. A final bun, rolled at the back, was placed jauntily on the top of the head.

ii

Always stand back and look at what you Are doing - you may need a change of plan.

I like it when accidents happen. Instead of trying to rectify the situation, I use ii it as a springboard for a new direction.

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Look 3

Look 2 ii

THIS IS PURE EUGENE: a nod to his youth with the Chelsea Girl skinhead combined with a reference to an 18th century French Revolutionary look sported by ‘Les Incroyables’ – and all created on a wig that looked so realistic, even the expert audience was fooled. Having shaved the top of the head with clippers and sprayed the blunt fringe with beer (Kronenbourg 1664, in case you ask) before smoothing it onto the forehead, Eugene then created and sectioned a ponytail at the back, backcombing each section and wrapping it around the ponytail to create a dreadlock effect. The final flourish? “As we’re dealing with the French Revolution, we need a bow, don’t we!”

I love the chaos of this. I love i i the ‘mistake ’ at the back, where it looks like the hair has fallen down.

It is romantic, organised confusion. i i WHEN EUGENE was booked over Julien d’Ys for his first show with Yohji Yamamoto in Paris (“Those were big boots to fill!”) he rose to the challenge with a fishtail braid, pulled wide and open so that it looked organic and weatherbeaten and beautiful, rather than neat and shiny.

Here, working without combs or sectioning, and simply moving the model’s hair around to determine placement, he combines that fishtail with a box braid, accentuated with brightly coloured embroidery thread, and ensures the detailing of the Yohji dress is visible at the nape by pinning hair artfully to one side. Loose hairs are gently teased out to create a beautiful cloud of romantic softness.

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I have a love/hate relationship with the mullet, and I want to overcome any reservations I may have about it.

I mean, what is bad taste? Is it just the unfamiliar that we doni t like?

Is it because wei re conditioned to think it i s not beautiful?”ii 55

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ANOTHER WIG, but this time Eugene wanted to accentuate the fakeness. He placed a short, brown wig on the model’s head and used clippers to remove the hair around the crown, leaving the wefts exposed. He then removed the wig, turned it inside out and replaced it on the model’s head, directing hairspray into the airstream of the dryer to lift the exposed strands of hair. And by the way, the dress is made out of Eugene’s old hip-hop socks – he’s on a mission to re-purpose all his old stuff!

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The new beauty is all i in the mind. It’s not the i physicality, it’s the attitude. i As hairdressers, we’ve got to look further afield to help people find their own ii versions of beauty.

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“MARIE ANTOINETTE meets Dr Zhivago, with a nod to early Vivienne Westwood,” says Eugene of this look – actually, inspired by a scene in Fellini’s Casanova. He wanted it to be as big and as fake as possible, a culture clash of period style and modern texture. And check out those colours! Yellowy, golden, nicotiney…

Nothing with Eugene is ever safe or predictable.

He assembled the looks as if he were working with a kit, affixing the different bits of hair to a cage placed on the model’s head, and working intuitively to create the shape he wanted. Grips were randomly on display to create a feeling of surprise, and he straightened all of the loose hair with irons to give an air of modernity.

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I like this because it feels sporadic and off and a little bit wrong!”ii CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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EUGENE’S GOOD friend, the make-up artist Pat McGrath, spotted this holographic fabric at a Chanel fitting and instantly knew Eugene would work his magic with it. Here, he applied the fabric in delicate layers, then moulded it to the model’s head using the heat from a hairdryer through a hair net. The finishing touch? A precision fringe, angled ‘just so’. Masterful.

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When I get Scared, I know Ii m doing something new. Fear can be an amazing motivator.

I am quite addicted to it. it fires me up and brings ii out the best in me.”

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THIS MANNEQUIN-LIKE look is another example of Eugene’s love of contrast in hair – the sci-fi mood of the red glitter skullcap offset by the use of gothic, romantic black lace. “I love that it’s hard and soft at the same time,” he said. To create the look, Eugene mixed red glitter into gel and painted it directly onto the model’s slickedback hair, using masking tape over the forehead to help create a defined line for the fringe (a tip he picked up from his make-up artist friends).

After drying off the gel he gently applied short lengths of lace, the delicate detailing providing a beautiful contrast to the vivid red colour and texture beneath.

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My advice for any young hairdresser just starting out?

Try not to think of getting to your destination as quickly as possible. The journey is the ii most important part.

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DAY TRIPPER ‘THE LOOK GOES AS FOLLOWS’ BY STEPHEN O DRISCOLL TAKES ONE MODEL ON A JOURNEY THROUGH DUSTY COLOURS AND SOFT TEXTURES, HIGHLIGHTING THE VERSATILITY OF THE BOB PHOTOGR APHY BY STEPHEN O DRISCOLL CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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HAIR AND PHOTOGRAPHY by Stephen O Driscoll at Hugh Campbell Hair Group, assisted by Sinead O Donnell. MAKE-UP by Jennifer O Donnell.

Scene NEW

Mark Giannandrea

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

THE ROUND ROOM at the historic Mansion House in Dublin was the location for the launch of Kao Salon Division into Ireland. Two hundred hairdressers and salon owners celebrated Goldwell, KMS and Oribe arriving on Irish shores, with an evening of networking, inspiration and stage appearances. Sam Burnett, KMS global ambassador, presented stunning looks inspired by street style before being grilled on his career

by Kao Salon Division UK associate education director, Irene Meikle.

The Black Amber creative team, the first official Irish salon group to join the Kao Salon Division portfolio, showed off the possibilities of Goldwell colour with a catwalk presentation that ranged from the wearable to the outrageous. Cory Couts, Kao Salon Division global president; Mark Giannandrea, Kao Salon Division EMEA commercial vice-president; and John Moroney, Kao Salon Division global vice-president and creative director; all took to the stage to introduce Ireland to Kao’s values. The evening ended with Trinity Salon Partners, distributors of Kao products in Ireland, sharing its insight into the Irish hairdressing market and its predictions for how these brands will shape the landscape of salons.

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Sam Burnett

frontiers

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John Moroney

Cory Couts

Black Amber

Irene Meikle CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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Chris O’Riordan’s winning look

Raise the

2019 MARKS A pretty monumental year for grooming brand American Crew as it celebrates its 25th birthday, so the excitement was turned up to 11 at the Ireland and UK final of the All Star Challenge. The barbers crowned national winners would stand a chance of making it to the global final in New York in May, guaranteed to be one heck of a party! Guests piled into private members’ club The Curtain in Shoreditch, London to celebrate all the finalists and hear from Ireland and UK general manager Lisa Jackson on the high standard in this year’s 200-plus entries. With judges including barbers Ian Harrold and Alan Beak, and grooming guru Lee Kynaston, the pressure was on to deliver. But deliver they did – for Ireland it was the second consecutive year that ST4Men’s Chris O’Riordan took top honours, with Barry Kieran from Signature Hair the runner-up. For the UK, Gemma Willock-Smith from Frequency Barber in Glasgow won the top spot, with Jacks of London’s Kieran Evans the runner-up. And it’ll be a New York state of mind for Chris and Barry in May as they’ve made it through to the global final…

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Gemma Willock-Smith, Lisa Jackson and Kieran Evans

CURTAIN

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John Vial and Catherine Handcock

Catherine and Sam Burnett

NEXT UP Coterie: In Session! Book

tickets at creativeheadmag.com/events

Pleased to

THE COTERIE, Creative HEAD’s networking club, brought together stars of the session and music worlds to discuss their journeys in front of its very first Dublin audience. Hosted by Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock, a 90-strong crowd congregated in the Irish capital as Sam Burnett, owner and creative director of Hare & Bone; Cinta Miller, celebrity hair and make-up artist; Faye Purcell, creative manager at record label BMG; and John Vial, session stylist and co-owner of London’s Salon Sloane; delved deep into their career history. Sam talked honestly about opening his salons, working backstage at Fashion Week and styling the hair of musicians Charli XCX and Dua Lipa. Next up taking their places in the Coterie hot seats were Cinta Miller and Faye Purcell. The pair – interviewing each other – discussed developing an artist’s style and taking risks on music videos. The evening’s final speaker, John Vial, shared tales from two and a half decades on the hair scene at London and New York Fashion Weeks, and discussed building and nurturing relationships with celebrities. It was a night of laughs, drinks and real insight – with special thanks to the night’s sponsors BaByliss PRO, which provided every guest with one of its latest styling tools.

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Cinta Miller and Faye Purcell

MEET YOU

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Always thinkin g outside the box!

Kerri, me, Rafael and Laura – four @redken a mbassadors from all over the world!

Meetin g the insane ly talented @trace ycunni ngha m1 was epic!

In the

I enjoyed using bold colour placement to create this #mixandmatch

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At the Redke n Excha nge in Dublin trying out the Color Gels Lacqu ers #newp roducts

Aine Carty from Rossanos in Ballyshannon, snaps away @hair_by_aine_at_rossanos SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

Block colour really comple ments the shapes in this sharp cut

This was my first experie nce workin g on a #photo shoot, I had so much fun!

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Ready backst age at Redke n Sympo siu m in Las Vegas #redke nsymposiu m2019

Livin g my best life onsta ge with the Redk en Tribe in Vega s

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URGENT HELP FOR THE PLIGHT OF POLAR BEARS IF WE DON’T TAKE IMMEDIATE ACTION, POLAR BEARS COULD BE THE FIRST SPECIES TO BECOME EXTINCT DUE TO CLIMATE CHANGE

milk_shake have teamed up with Polar Bears International to raise money for these beautiful animals by producing a special pack containing our best selling products along with a free polar bear soft toy. ®

For every pack sold, milk_shake will make a contribution to this amazing charity, for the protection of polar bears, the good of our planet and for future generations to come*. ®

*in participating salons, while stocks last.

/ DISCOVER MORE AT: MILKSHAKEHAIRCARE.IE / FACEBOOK MILKSHAKEHAIRIRELAND / T. 0044 (0)1392 365177

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