Creative HEAD March 2020

£4.50 MARCH 2020

In print•online•everywhere!

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PAUL MITCHELL IS ANYTHING but a faceless brand. It is an ever-expanding collection of artists, innovators and educators spreading a message of inclusivity, philanthropy and a long-standing commitment to the professional hairdresser. It remains a family-owned company, where the everyday and the extraordinary are in perpetual motion, and where an exceptional combination of conscience, creativity and quality continues to rock our world.

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208mm

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Reverse FC 218mm

Planet us

AS CREATIVE HEAD CE LEBRATES 20 years in print, Paul Mitchell is m momentous occasion: arking its own four decades devoted to developing exception supporting incredible pe al products, ople and protecting ou r precious planet. So we the opportunity to join couldn’t resist forces and big up all th at matters to the birthda y brand – and everything that makes it unique.

Join us as we explore th e

six wonders of the Paul

PHOTOGRAPHY BEKK Y CALVER

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Mitchell world…

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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP

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fessional hair care available pro ty ali qu st he hig the ing “Produc ell is (and always will be) tch Mi ul Pa . gh ou en t no ply is sim rld a more beautiful place” dedicated to making our wo FOUNDER

JOHN PAUL DEJORIA, CO-

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te ia crea r o J e st the fir Paul D s n i h r o e J on ell and onditi h C c e t i h M T l arket . s u t m a c e P u h d t o n 1980 hell pr oner o c i t t i i d M n l o c st Pau ave-in e l l the fir a n sio profes

listed ssoon en Vidal Sa ll to train his he Paul Mitc t in his firs ff ta s US salon

The Artist JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS has always been committed to pushing the envelope when it comes to hair artistry.

From the inception of The Shag and the idea of hair sculpting (both born out of the creativity of Paul Mitchell himself) to today’s award-winning brand artists, including 2020 NAHA (North American Hairstyling Awards) winner, Lucie Doughty for Editorial/Session Stylist of the Year and Daytime Emmy Award winner Noogie Thai, John Paul Mitchell Systems is a brand that fully supports the artistic individuality of each and every hairdresser around the globe. It provides the tools and products to allow every stylist to become an artist.

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“The Artist inspired the team to create something really sculptural. The look is strong and distinctive, yet playful and not too rigid” JONATHAN SOONS, CREATIVE AMBASSADOR, HEADMASTERS

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“I’ve been dying to create this style, based on the Hitchcock look from Alexander McQueen A/W05. It's vintage but sexy and fashion-forward at the same time” JONATHAN SOONS

John Paul M Systems o itchell nly makes professio nal-level products

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The fi rst Pa ul Mit chell black produ and w cts hi hite b t the U ecaus S mar e colo ket. T ur wa he pa s too ckagi costly ng wa to prin s t

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FROM ITS INCEPTION John Paul Mitchell Systems has always supported the professional. So much so, that in 2007 co-founder and chairman of the board, John Paul DeJoria, added his majority stake of the business into his family trust, ensuring that the brand remains only within the professional beauty industry for 360 years.

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“This character is all about education, so I thought it could be a university or college student who is dressing as the woman she wants to be. She’s forward-thinking, maybe a bit of an activist. When you reference an era you don’t want to make it exact, so we used elements to get that feel of an old, ’70s Britain but that still feels fresh”

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r e g n e ss e M e Th g, John Paul Mitchell business of hairdressin WHEN IT COMES to the global artistic director ed. Multi award-winning Systems has you cover r concept that has ally created the Color Ba Robert Cromeans origin s the globe, to bring brands and salons acros since been replicated by th business systems nal hair colour to life. Wi the theatre of professio on, this is a company for every area of the sal and in-salon concepts score to do more. that will help you keep

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The Guardian NO ANIMAL TESTING. Never have, never will. Globally. Not all brands have the same ironclad assurance as John Paul Mitchell Systems, but it’s a deeply ingrained philosophy for the brand – almost all of its products across colour and styling being 100 per cent vegan.

“This is classic catwalk hair, a big blow-out to complement the bunny ears. The key to this look is a great set” JONATHAN SOONS

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m d fro r a w an A i als) r a m t i i n n A uma t of H n e a s m reat eive T c l e r a ll ic Eth tche i e h M t l r Pau le fo 0 p o 9 e 19 A (P T E P 18/02/2020 14:01

JONATHAN SOONS

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“This is a nod to idealism, romance, youthfulness – but it has a quirkiness. Rather than having a sharp parting and topknot, you have this faceframing softness. It’s a classic shape with a slight oddness”

In 2017, V ariety nam ed John Paul DeJoria it s Philanthro pist of the Year

The Philanthropist IT’S COOL TO BE KIND. A culture of giving is a cornerstone of the John Paul Mitchell Systems way of life. Co-founder John Paul DeJoria is a UN Goodwill Ambassador as well as sitting on the board and getting hands on with charities including Mineseeker, Grow Appalachia and Sea Shepherd.

Everywhere that he, his daughter and vice-chair Michaeline and co-owner Angus Mitchell go, the message is the same. He does this on behalf of hairdressers across the globe.

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“I’ve got a mild obsession with Pre-Raphaelite hair at the moment, so I created a really romantic, almost melancholic look. At the same time, you have to have an edge to it to keep it modern – that's where the products really help” JONATHAN SOONS

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t s i n o i t a v r e The Cons chell Systems cares py roots, John Paul Mit AS A BRAND WITH hip rld around us. From the g and preserving the wo deeply about protectin Big Island in Hawaii, red Awapuhi Farm on the sustainable solar-powe et, John Paul Mitchell shoots are carbon-offs to ensuring that all photo including Sea Shepherd merous global charities ys Systems works with nu hing from our waterwa ce that maintain everyt and Waterkeeper Allian to our wildlife.

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Reforest’A ction and Tea Tree joined forc es to plan t 750,000 trees by th ee The next ta nd of last year. rget? One million trees by th e end of 2 022!

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PHOTOGRAPHY Bekky Calver. HAIR Jonathan Soons for Headmasters, assisted by Pervin Cirakoglu, James Davies and Luke Dawson-Browne. MAKE-UP Stefan Jemeel. FASHION Issey Gibbons

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Did you know...

40 years

In 2020 John Paul Mitch ell Systems celebrates 40 years in business, including nin e brands stocked in over 80 countries

The gift that keeps on giving . It’s been 40 years of pushing HERE’S TO A FRESH DECADE of caring for people, products and planet John Paul Mitchell Systems has boundaries and challenging the status quo. We can’t wait to see what es are getting a vintage makeover… in store for the next 40. And to celebrate, the original product launch

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Still th

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of John Paul Mitchell Systems, you

PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO ONE

The original wash. Shampoo One is effective enough to only be used once, gently cleansing to improve manageability and shine with panthenol and wheat-derived conditioners.

100 per cent vegan.

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can snap up these four limited edition versions of Paul M

PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO TWO

Dive in deeper with Shampoo Two to remove dulling build-up for a seriously clean and soft finish. Extracts of camomile, rosemary, aloe vera and jojoba work to add body, fullness and shine.

100 per cent vegan.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

the one

s, these products are bound to be a sell-out success ons of Paul Mitchell's original best-sellers. With their sleek, retro design

PAUL MITCHELL THE CONDITIONER

Fast-acting and no need to rinse – The Conditioner leaves hair feeling instantly more nourished, with improved texture and protection from daily styling thanks to awapuhi extract.

100 per cent vegan.

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PAUL MITCHELL 413 SCULPTING BRUSH This go-to hairbrush is a true all-rounder. Detangle, blow-dry and finish all with the same brush. Whether you’re creating sleeker updos, polished bob styles or barely-there styling, the 413 does it all.

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Join us

INVEST IN THE PLANET, IN PRODUCTS THAT SUPPORT YOU, AND IN PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT WITH JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS BRANDS. FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT EXCLUSIVE UK DISTRIBUTOR SALON SUCCESS ON 0845 6590011 OR VISIT SALON�SUCCESS.CO.UK

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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE

EDUCATION

EVENTS

INSPIRATION

CREATIVE HEAD STORE

COMPETITIONS

Illustration by @betty_blades

EXCLUSIVE

Welcome to our new trio of guest PAINTERS from Pulp Riot’s #riotsquad.

First in the spotlight is Lexie Shay Rabbett from HIVE Hair Salon, Leeds

2020

2020

Most Wanted and The It List Awards 2020 are now OPEN for entries. We’ve had a category refresh, so check out the website now for the full lowdown

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This is your final chance to snap up Salon Smart 2020 tickets! Head to the Creative HEAD store now or risk missing out

creativeheadmagofficial

The Coterie’s returning to Edinburgh on 16 March, and we’re in first-class company! Be part of the action as we hang with the #sydsquad

@creativeheadmag

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FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK 020 7391 7440 Customersevice.uk@revlon.com IRELAND 018869300 Customerservice.ire@revlon.com REVLONPROFESSIONALUK

COLOR IS A JOURNEY, IT IS WHAT DRIVES US TO TRANSFORM, TO LIVE, BE & BREATHE COLOR. COLOR IS YOUR JOURNEY, FINDING AND REVEALING THE ESSENCE OF YOUR OWN AND TRUE PERSONALITY. COLOR IS THE JOURNEY THROUGH SCIENCE, ACHIEVING THE BEST COLOR RESULTS WITH ULTIMATE CARE AND NEVERENDING SHINE. COLOR IS OUR JOURNEY, A FORCE CONSTANTLY EVOLVING THAT TRIGGERS CREATION FOR BOTH ARTISTS AND CLIENTS.

THE COLOR JOURNEY REVLONISSIMO

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Professional hair color formulated as if it contained a hair mask to deliver unlimited color possibilities with ultimate care and shine.

We didn’t invent color, we just made it better for you to create boldly because color is an infinite journey.

Be part of Revlonissimo The Color JourneyTM.

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FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK 020 7391 7440 Customersevice.uk@revlon.com IRELAND 018869300 Customerservice.ire@revlon.com REVLONPROFESSIONALUK

LIGHTENED HAIR 3X STRONGER

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Editor’s letter

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WHILE CREATIVE HEAD celebrates its 20th birthday, it’s a Happy MWIT launch month! special birthday year for the Most Wanted Awards too. Two decades Creative HEAD’s Most after that first lunchtime bash at London’s Sugar Reef, things have Wanted and The It List altered just a smidge. Now we also have The It List to recognise emerging Awards are back and talent, and across both competitions there are an incredible 20 awards handed open for entries, with new out in front of some 700-odd guests at a stellar landmark venue (Natural History and refreshed categories Museum! Tate Modern!). It’s all just a little bit extra… and that’s because we believe and a 20th birthday to wholeheartedly that you, your work and your businesses are a little bit extra, too! celebrate. Will you see Both competitions celebrate the versatility of this fabulous industry – the salon your name in lights in team, the individual, the session world, the business brain – because we have always 2020? See page 48. The felt it vital to showcase the breadth of opportunities and success hairdressing Coterie’s off to Edinburgh brings. So, this year, we’re cranking up the dial to 11 to ensure the 20th Most on 16 March, with a cast Wanted Awards are the best yet, and that The It List spotlights the brightest of of creatives in tow. Turn to the next generation. Turn to page 48 and consider what one of page 54 for details. Finally, those awards could do for your career, your team’s energy, salon owners and managers your salon’s business. Your name? Well, it might just be across the UK, this is your final etched on one of those trophies come 7 September… call for tickets to Salon Smart (London, 29 to 30 March). The agenda’s packed, the line-up’s pumped – are you ready to take Amanda Nottage your business to the next level?

Editor creativeheadmag.com/events

TIVE HEAD A E R

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amanda@alfol.co.uk

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FASHION

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

Big is beautiful with Glitterbox

by Hare & Bone

ON THE COVER

Hair by Jonathan Soons for Headmasters for John Paul Mitchell Systems.

Photography by Bekky Calver.

Paula McCash on how her Most Wanted win boosted her career

80 SCENE

A six-strong panel of experts at The Coterie and Fashion in Motion at the V&A

EDITOR

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

DEPUTY EDITOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

STAFF WRITER

ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA ANNA SAMSON

COMMERCIAL EDITOR EVE WAGSTAFF

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

ADAM WOOD

EVA VESTMANN

KELSEY DRING

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

JENNY BROOKS

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

ALISON ROWLEY

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DAVID HAMMOND

creativeheadmagofficial

FREE WITHE THIS ISSU

PAINT S/S20

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

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2020

2020

FOR ALL THE DETAILS, turn to page 48

Unity collection

CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED Awards will be celebrating its 20th birthday this year – what a year to see your name in lights!

In a new move for 2020, the Best New Salon category has been reborn to challenge UK and Irish entrants to illustrate a commitment to sustainability by demonstrating how eco principles have been incorporated into a new salon launch or a total revamp.

Meanwhile, The It List brings a brand-new award to the trophy table – The Editorial Stylist – directed at a young hairdresser who turns heads on set for projects such as magazine shoots, music videos, live events and runway shows.

The Most Wanted and The It List Awards are the only industry competitions to embrace the salon, business and sessions worlds, celebrating skills and achievements across 20 categories. Finalists will battle it out for titles that will change the course of their careers.

You have until 13 May to get your entries in, with finalists revealed at creativeheadmag. com on 10 June. This year’s 700-strong Grand Final will be held at a landmark London venue on Monday 7 September, the biggest birthday bash of the decade. More will be revealed – sign up to receive updates at creativeheadmag.com/newsletter.

Tracey Devine-Smith

20 YEARS OF MAGIC AT MOST WANTED!

Innovation and unity celebrated at ASP GUESTS FROM INDIA, the US and all over Europe converged on the UK to celebrate at the ASP Luxury Haircare 2020 Distributor Conference.

The two-day event shared news and distributor updates, and was a chance for ASP Affinage Salon Professional to showcase new product innovations, including the new ASP INFINITI colour range.

ASP global ambassador, Tracey Devine-Smith, presented a show themed around a living shade guide to demonstrate INFINITI’s colour palette, including the new b:Brown range.

In addition, there was a presentation on a new loyalty programme and the ASP Awards recognising its distributor network. A hair show by Tracey DevineSmith and the ASP Art Team – The Colour Rebels See Unity exclusively also showcased its latest collection, Unity, an iconic in PAINT S/S20, disco-meets-the-’90s collection. free with this issue

Creative HEAD and the Most Wanted Awards are not the only ones celebrating a big birthday. Paul Mitchell’s Shampoo One, Shampoo Two, The Conditioner and 413 Sculpting Brush have been wrapped in classic black and white packaging to celebrate the brand’s 40th birthday. salon-success.co.uk

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#CHedit NEW CULT TEAM REVEALED

MY month

AHEAD

SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL HAS revealed its new Cult Team, a group of six stylists who will now enjoy an 18-month mentoring programme covering topics such as photographic skills, wig making and creative hair skills. The team is, pictured from left: Samantha March (Twist Hair), Stephanie Gallagher (Wonderland), Sam Millard (Avant Garde), Gemma Noon (The Vinery Hair Salon), Hannah Grogan (Foundation) and Luigi Altomonte (Fratelli Hair).

What March has in store for...

JAMES ALFIE PARR BROTHERHOOD

We’ve just opened Brotherhood, the ‘brother grooming’ salon of Nashwhite located in The Neighbourhood – a street food market, coffee shop, craft beer joint, record store and event space in Leamington Spa. I also have exciting editorial work on the horizon.

THE #LCT20 ROAD MAP

Follow the journey of some of the UK’s most inspiring colourists all the way to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final, starting at these Regional SemiFinals. All successful salons through will be announced on lorealcolourtrophy.com from 3pm on 18 March.

Judging takes place between 15 and 17 April for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and the L’Oréal Mens Image categories. Finalists will be announced online at 12pm on 21 April.

25 March Northern Irish Regional Semi-Final, Belfast 29 March Scottish Regional Semi-Final, Glasgow 30 March North East Regional Semi-Final, Leeds 31 March North West Regional Semi-Final, Liverpool 5 April Western Regional Semi-Final, Cheltenham 6 April Eastern Regional Semi-Final, Cambridge 7 April Southern Regional Semi-Final, London 8 April London Regional Semi-Final, London 1 June L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final, London

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TOM CHAPMAN

LIONS BARBER COLLECTIVE

L’Oréal launches Bachelor’s degree in hairdressing L’Oréal is opening ‘Real Campus, by L’Oréal’ in Paris, the first school to award a Bachelor’s degree in Hairdressing and Entrepreneurship. The degree is part of a mission to make hairdressing more appealing to talented young people, with technical training covered alongside management, customer care and digital skills. “We are excited to learn from this pilot in Paris and look forward to exploring future opportunities for the UK,” said Béatrice Dautzenberg, managing director of L’Oréal Professional Products Division UK & Ireland.

CHARLOTTE MENSAH GOOD HAIR TO GET MAJOR RELEASE Charlotte Mensah has announced the release of a book, entitled Good Hair: The Essential Guide to Afro, Textured and Curly Hair. Due to launch on 17 September and published by Penguin Life, the release will coincide with World Afro Day, London Fashion Week and Black History Month.

Charlotte is also the founder of the Hair Lounge in Notting Hill and the Charlotte Mensah Manketti Oil range.

I have been asked to speak at Salon Smart and I was blown away! I will be exploring a little more about mental health and mindfulness for salon owners and hair professionals for the event, and I cannot wait to share what I have found out from my research and conversations.

2019

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Ashleigh Stewart of Ashleigh Stewart Hair in Edinburgh, Beth Wilkinson of Beth Wilkinson Hair in Bedlington and Francesca Barnes of Haus of Hairess in Bristol are the latest extensions experts to join Remi Cachet’s Super Stylist programme.

Headmasters is now the official salon of The Little Princess Trust, a charity supplying real hair wigs free of charge to children and young people who have lost their hair through cancer, illness and treatment.

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Olivia Rubin

Anthony Turner at Erdem

Eugene Souleiman

Erdem

Matty Bovan

Bora Aksu

The #SydSquad was in full force at London Fashion Week, creating big hair at Matty Bovan – and we mean BIG – with full fringes and shaggy texture groomed to perfection using the BaByliss 9000 Cordless straightener, followed by the BaByliss PRO 25mm tong for a hint of movement.

The Central Saint Martins MA Fashion showcase was a star-studded event, celebrating the 20th anniversary of the extraordinary partnership of L’Oréal Professionnel and the iconic college. It was all hands on deck backstage, with Richard Phillipart’s L’Oréal Professionnel Porfolio Team prepping the hair of a staggering 106 models. The base look was one of nomadic wanderers, exaggerating the models’ natural texture.

Over at Bora Aksu, the muse was Swedish abstract artist and mystic, Hilma af Klint. Daniel Martin for L’Oréal Professionnel got busy with the Steampod 3.0 to create Pre-Raphaelite hair, styling flat waves that felt super airy.

David Koma teamed up with Aveda’s Jon Reyman for a sleek-meets-street look, with Pure Abundance Style Prep sprayed liberally throughout the hair before being dried flat and tucked tightly behind the ears.

Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals crafted an ear-framing take on a multi-textured ponytail at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. With clothes inspired by the ’70s classic Don’t Look Now (including the film’s signature red mackintosh), the finished look was girly and romantic with an off-kilter twist.

Erdem found inspiration in Sir Cecil Beaton’s photography, where the roaring ’20s were in full effect. 2019 Most Wanted Session Stylist, Anthony Turner, used up to half a tube of L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Fix Max gel on each model to create the signature finger waves of the era. The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition was used to set everything in place.

OG supermodel Jerry Hall was the inspiration for the playful ’80s look at Olivia Rubin, where ghd UK brand ambassador Zoë Irwin created swoops of cascading curls using the new ghd helios hairdryer for soft volume.

Meanwhile, Mark Fast returned to the swinging ’60s, uniting a rock and roll edge with preppy finishes. Leading the TIGI International Creative Team was Maria Kovacs, who used the models’ natural hair to create cool, natural movement with a focus on texture.

David Koma

Fashion Week A/W20

2019

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Central Saint Martins MA Fashion showcase

Mark Fast Marques Almeida

Images courtesy ofBaByliss PRO, Dyson, ghd, Illamasqua, L’Oréal Professionnel, TIGI and Wella Professionals

#CHedit

CREATIVE HEAD

19/02/2020 14:43

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After years in development, ASP Affinage Salon Professional has unveiled its updated INFINITI colour range. It boasts permanent hair colours, colour additives, toners and highlighting to deliver unlimited possibilities with its new GPS Technology.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111 asphair.com

New to the OSiS+ Long Hair Texture range comes blow-dry mist Texture Blow and the dry aerosol sugar spray Beach Texture.

Ready the #iwokeuplikethis hashtag…

RRP £13.55 EACH 0800 328 6920

Go pro with your blow with the power (and rainbow of colours) of the Veloce and Rapida dryers from Diva Professional.

RRP VELOCE £49.99; RAPIDA £59.99 020 3393 9072 divapro.co.uk

Luminous, reflective hair that looks naturally perfected – it can only be the new ninestrong INOA Glow collection from L’Oréal Professionnel.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 030 4034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

Could it be that spring is actually nearly with us? If you have guests with hair that demands some love after all that central heating, horrid weather and heat styling, you’ll want to know about the JOICO HydraSplash collection, which quenches and nourishes without weighing hair down. And then encourage them to forgo the hairdryer on occasion and put their trust in the JOICO Zero Heat air-dry cremes, which keep hair looking polished without all that heat.

RRP FROM £14.50 0845 071 2326 joico.eu

Get smooth with K-Respect from milk_shake, an in-salon keratin treatment that eliminates frizz for three to five months, alongside the at-home smoothing shampoo, conditioner and maintainer mist.

RRP FROM £11.24 01392 365 177

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Blond Absolu from Kerastase was the brand’s biggest ever launch, and the goodness keeps on coming with the La Vie En Blonde candle, free with two Blond Absolu purchases in March and April.

GIFT WITH PURCHASE 0845 600 0122 kerastase.co.uk

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New for UK Great Lengths certified salons and stylists, the vegan and cruelty-free Dolce line by Rossano Ferretti has been specifically created to use with Great Lengths extensions.

RRP FROM £10 0113 278 1292 greatlengthshair.co.uk

Playfully cool and effortless, this texture trio from Invisiblewear – Velvet Cream, Air Gel and Cloud Whip – will deliver beautifully undone, voluminous and defined looks.

RRP £21.95 EACH 0845 659 0013 salon-success.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

19/02/2020 14:44

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Skincare has long inspired haircare, so now think fillers for your client’s less than luscious ends of their locks. New Serie Expert Pro Longer from L’Oréal Professionnel is all about delivering thicker, plumper ends using exclusive patented technology. A perfect treatment for clients terrified of anything more than a tiny trim, Serie Expert Pro Longer is aimed at consumers with long hair that gets thinner at the ends. It’s the brand’s first professional range to offer such a thickening service on those precious last centimetres, with Filler-A100 and amino acids doing all the hard work to penetrate the fibre’s core to act from the inside and thicken, while helping to protect from damage. It all starts with an in-salon backwash service, while the goodness continues at home with the aftercare collection, including a shampoo, conditioner, masque, leave-in cream and the real magic maker Ends Filler Concentrate, which comes in a single dose to build on the plumping brilliance of the in-salon treatment.

RRP FROM £12.90 0800 030 4034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT... OILS AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Indulging Fluid Oil, packed with crambe abyssinica seed oil, seals split ends, boosts shine and condition for a highgloss, smooth finish.

RRP £31.50 0800 328 6920 authenticbeautyconcept.com

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Make hair reflect light with Two-Way Mirror from R+Co, a lightweight, smoothing oil that melts into hair leaving strands polished and lustrous without weighing them down.

RRP £28.50 01442 248 104 randco.com

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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? Ever since I was young I loved playing with dolls’ heads.

I was obsessed with tonging, plaiting and restyling hair – so I always knew I wanted to be a hairdresser. I started working weekends at Headmasters and assisting as much as possible. I then went on to do my apprenticeship with Headmasters and have never looked back.

BOBBIE MASON

AGE: 17 SALON: HEADMASTERS TEDDINGTON WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I’ve been lucky enough to win two awards with Headmasters: the House of Innovation Award as an apprentice, and the Headmasters Christine Sanders Future Star Award in January. From being mentored by the Headmasters Creative Ambassadors to being given the opportunity to shoot in a professional studio with photographers and make-up artists to bringing my creation to life, it was such a great experience. Also meeting Headmasters creative director Andrew Barton was a massive highlight!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would either like to be a top stylist/manager for Headmasters or I’d love to own my own salon.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM GIG IN HAIRDRESSING? A celebrity hairdresser to the stars, travelling to concerts and festivals and celebrity events around the world!

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17/02/2020 13:38

W N E

ZEROHEAT

HOT STYLE. ZERO HEAT.

Henkel Nederland B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond The Netherlands Hair: Larisa Love Photo: Hama Sanders

NEW Joico Zero Heat is the no-heat, no-hassle styler you need when you want to air-dry—and still look polished.

Defines & enhances hair’s natural texture.

Keeps frizz in check.

#zeroheat www.joico.eu

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BEFORE

09/01/2020 17:16

#CHedit

Inside story FRY + DEAN HACKNEY

Housed in the former Grace & Thorn florist you’ll find the first salon venture for former Percy & Reed creatives, Billy Fry and Ellenora Dean. Operating across two floors, the design objective was to ensure both team and clients feel utterly relaxed and comfortable. As is often the case there was a tight budget to play with, but it was vital the salon had a high end finish.

Luckily friends and family helped out, as Billy’s mum knows a thing or two about salons (that’ll be Strands Hairdressing’s Pauline Howe). Darker tones on the walls and textured natural wood help bring a evoke the feel of an enveloping sitting room, steering the vibe away from anything too clinical.

You’ll find L’Oréal Professionnel, ghd and evo on the shelves and, when adding final touches, the duo both slotted in pieces that from their own homes for an authentic personal touch. Lots of the soft furnishings are from Seletti, a brand adored by the pair for its high end feel but tongue-incheek aesthetic – in keeping with the Fry + Dean ethos.

HOT BUYS

now open

LIVING LEGEND

Like the well-upholstered seat in a first class cabin, Takara Belmont’s Legend salon chair is the epitome of world-class luxury. It’s motorised and programmable, too. £6,175 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

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CUT & DRIP BROMLEY

Guests taking a seat in this barber shop will find themselves surrounded by bespoke marble and quartz fittings while enjoying a luxurious service that won’t hurt their wallet.

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19/02/2020 14:46

W E N

DREAM BLOWOUT DREAM BLOWOUTS DO COME TRUE

Henkel Nederland B.V. Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond The Netherlands Hair: Larisa Love Photo: Hama Sanders

Get the luxuriously soft, smooth, long-lasting blowout of your dreams!

Up to 50% faster drying time.

Reduces breakage by over 75%.* #dreamblowout www.joico.eu *Against combing breakage on damaged hair vs. a non-conditioning shampoo

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09/01/2020 17:10

THE BUSINESS EDIT

HOW WILL RISING WAGES AFFECT YOUR SALON? FROM APRIL THE government will be raising the National Minimum Wage (NMW) for 21 to 24 year olds from £7.70 to £8.20, and the National Living Wage (NLW) for over 25s from £8.21 to £8.72. So how can you prepare?

“The upcoming rises in the NMW and NLW will undoubtedly put further pressure on salon finances,” says Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHBF. “Employers can be fined £20,000 for each employee who is not paid the correct amount and we urge salon owners to ensure that wages are correct and to take advice before making any deductions.

If you get something wrong you are liable, not your accountant or payroll provider.”

Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton in Yorkshire, believes the impact will be strong when it comes to graduate and newly qualified stylists. “In some cases we may be forced to make decisions between supporting and continuing to employ

and educating several team members at this level,” he says. “Although a higher minimum wage may sound appealing to them, it could actually mean less positions are available, resulting in fewer people benefiting from a strong salon-based foundation within the industry.”

However, according to Louise HowardLong, owner of Architect Hair in Leeds, this wage increase is actually an opportunity.

“To elevate the perception of our profession, we must pay better wages. We already find it difficult to recruit so we must offer more incentives.” she says. “If a salon is not in a position where it can pay better wages when required by government there are only two reasons: one is greed on the part of the owners, and the other is a poor business plan. Also, I have found a raise in prices increases client numbers – clients will pay well for great hair and good service.”

H …

NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS, GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…

KERRY MATHER KJM SALONS “If we want hairdressing to be taken seriously as a worthwhile, rewarding career then we need to pay better salaries in line with other industries. My stylists are on a healthy commission structure and I regularly employ apprentices that are over 20 and 21 and although I can pay them apprentice rate for one year, after that they go onto NMW. We’ve had great success with the ‘older’ apprentices – they work harder, adapt to the job and skillset quicker and swiftly start contributing and essentially paying their way.”

MAKE HAPPY INVESTMENTS

WHEN MANAGING A team of people we are constantly faced with the question: “What happens if we invest in developing our people and then they leave?” But why not flip it on its head and think: “What happens if we don’t invest in developing our people and then they stay?”

Today, investing in your team’s development is no longer an option, it’s a must. And it’s not just about developing their skills to be the best creative cutter or master of all complex colour techniques; there is now a need to prioritise wellbeing in the workplace. With that in mind, what are you currently doing to invest in your team’s wellbeing and positive mindset?

I have co-created with my colleagues a ‘Team Values Charter’ that we want to abide by and be known for. For my team, it’s People First – above anything in regards to the business; we always

commit to putting the people’s wellbeing in the team first, without exception. To help embed this culture, we celebrate any example where the team has worked with a People First mindset. You can’t underestimate celebrating your team’s successes beyond business goals – this is what connects people the most. People who are happy at work are the best asset, they deliver the best customer service, will have more rebookings and are able to think more creatively in their job. So, are you making happy investments?

THREE TOP TIPS FOR HAPPY INVESTMENTS:

•Be aware of how happy your team is now. Take a look – you can tell a lot through body language versus their takings this week.

•Co-create a Team Values Charter. If everyone takes part, it will be more readily adopted.

•Live and breathe this mentality and celebrate it.

WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK 24

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17/02/2020 13:42

ON THE UP

E L MINIMUM WAGE ARE BOTH ON THE RIS NA TIO NA D AN GE WA ING LIV L NA TIO THE NA ES – GET HELP WITH THE NHBF THIS YEAR. DON’T BE CAUGHT UNAWAR IT’S OFFICIAL: the National Living Wage (NLW) for over-25s is set to rise by 6.2 per cent to £8.72 per hour in April this year, and the government plans to increase it to £10.50 by 2024. NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard warns that salons can expect more increases, adding: “We’re also sending an early warning that from April 2021, employees over the age of 23 will be entitled to the NLW, and by 2025 those over 21 will move to the NLW.”

NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE

The National Minimum Wage (NMW) rates will also go up in April this year, says Tina. “If you don’t pay your staff the correct rates, you may risk a fine of up to £20,000 and public naming and shaming by the government.”

THE NEW NMW RATES

• A 6.5 per cent increase to

£8.20 for those aged 21 to 24.

• A 4.9 per cent increase to £6.45 for those aged 18 to 20.

• A 4.6 per cent increase to £4.55 for under-18s.

“These increases will put further pressure on salon finances, as wages are such a high proportion of costs for service industries,” says Tina. An expert guide to the NMW and NLW is available free to NHBF members at nhf.info/nmw-guide

APPRENTICESHIP RATES

“The apprenticeship rate will rise from £3.90 to £4.15,” adds Tina. “However, don’t be caught out by the apprenticeship pay rules. An apprentice over the age of 19 who is in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the age-appropriate NMW or NLW.”

Make sure you keep a record of staff birthdays, and prepare accordingly for staff who will be moving from one bracket to the next during the year. NHBF members can get an in-depth guide at nhf.info/employing-people

YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES

“Don’t rely on an accountant to alert you to wage rises or underpayments,” warns Tina. “If you get something wrong, you will be liable – not your payroll provider. So make sure that everyone you employ is correctly paid.”

COPING WITH THE COST

“It’s vital to create a cash flow forecast to control your finances,” adds Tina. “You can also take steps to boost income, such as increasing retail sales and taking advantage of free or low-cost marketing techniques.”

NOT YET AN NHBF MEMBER? FOR LESS THAN 80P A DAY, BENEFITS INCLUDE:

• Valuable discounts on industry-specific insurance • Free health & safety advice • Free 24/7 legal and commercial helplines • Membership helpline for everyday business advice • Free employment and chair renting contracts JOIN THE NHBF BEFORE THE END OF MARCH 2020 AND QUOTE CHM25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE

To discover more about the NHBF and what it can offer you call 01234 831965 or visit nhbf.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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#BusinessEdit

FRAMEWORK APPRENTICE ROLES END IN ENGLAND THE NHBF HAS welcomed the end of Framework apprenticeships in England, which will no longer be available after 31 July 2020.

“Unfortunately, they had led to double standards when compared with the new Standards (Trailblazer) apprenticeships,” said Caroline Larissey, director of quality & standards at the NHBF. “Some apprentices were not ‘salon-ready’ at the end of their Framework apprenticeship.”

The end-point assessment for Standards apprenticeships provides a robust standardised test (similar to an employer skills test) that ensures the apprentice has reached industry-standard competence.

“In addition, the Level 2 hair professional: hairdressing/barbering Standards are set at a higher standard than the old Framework apprenticeship, equating to a Level 2.5,” added Caroline. “A Level 3 advanced and creative hair professional progression route has also just become available.”

NHBF Community Awards return THE FANTASTIC WORK that salons and barber shops do to support charities and their local communities will be celebrated at the NHBF’s Community Awards 2020.

Entries close on 6 March, and finalists will be invited to a high-profile reception and presentation event at the Houses of Parliament on 6 May. NHBF president Ian Egerton, said: “The Community Awards were launched last year and proved a great success. We were blown away by the entries we received. This is another great opportunity for MPs to gain an insight into the invaluable and unsung contribution made by the hair and beauty sector.”

Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/community-awards

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NHBF LAUNCHES COLOUR CHECK CAMPAIGN

THE NHBF HAS launched a ‘Colour Check’ campaign that asks for salons to carry out patch testing as and when required to protect clients and reduce the risk of legal or insurance claims. Open to NHBF members, Colour Check aims to: • Raise industry standards by encouraging salons to put client safety first • Give public and industry recognition to salons that carry out the tests Salons that sign up to the campaign will receive a mystery shop to check allergy alert tests are being carried out correctly, and that hair colourants containing PPD are not used on under-16s. If successful, the salon will receive a Colour Check salon window sticker and logo to use on their website and other materials. They will also be featured in the ‘salon search’ area of the NHBF website.

“It’s time to recognise the professionalism of salons up and down the country who comply with allergy alert test requirements and to encourage those who don’t to get on board,” said Ian Egerton, NHBF president.

“Colour Check status will also help clients choose a salon run by committed professionals so they can be confident they’re in safe hands.”

Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/colour-check

Advanced Trailblazer Apprenticeships begin A LEVEL 3 ADVANCED and creative hair professional Trailblazer Apprenticeship is now available, approved by the Institute for Apprenticeships and Technical Education with maximum funding of £5,000. Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards at the NHBF and member of the Trailblazer Apprenticeship steering group, said: “It has been a real challenge, but we now have a Level 3 qualification that is right for our industry.”

Wendy Cummings, chair of the Trailblazer Apprenticeship steering group for hair professionals, added: “We now have a world class apprenticeship standard and endpoint assessment plan that really raises the bar and allows an apprentice to demonstrate their professional skills, knowledge flair and creativity. However, despite our best efforts and a request for a review, the funding band may mean providers will struggle.”

For more, visit nhbf.co.uk/apprentices

CREATIVE HEAD

18/02/2020 11:28

#BusinessEdit

LIFE LESSONS

KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?

LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

JULIE HENSMAN HENSMANS

Have courage at all times.

It’s not what happens to you, it’s how you deal with it. You can always learn something from every situation.

Trust your instinct. Follow what your gut is telling you and never take anything for granted. When it comes to staff, don’t hang onto someone thinking you can change them; it may just not be the right time for them to be on your team. It’s all about timing.

The right team dynamics are crucial. Surround yourself with the best people, trusting your instinct will help guide you on this.

Train, guide, nurture and direct for two years, coach for two more years and then after four years look for a collaboration together. Our motto ‘You – at the heart of all we do’ applies to both our clients and our staff.

Embrace change – it has to happen in order to grow. One size doesn’t fit all, so knowing this, knowing your team and allowing things to change and grow will benefit you all. If you are flexible with your team, they will be flexible back.

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“I’m new to hair but I’ve been working on front of house for nearly six months and I’d love to know what I could be doing to make it as perfect as possible for our guests, while supporting the team and boosting the business” TRACY AUGUSTUS P. KAI HAIR, MARKET DEEPING, LINCOLNSHIRE

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS THE IDEA OF HAVING a receptionist merely to take bookings and meet and greet clients is a luxury that many salons struggle to justify financially. Many are parttime workers and are rarely focused on their real role.

Meeting, greeting and booking appointments is merely part of the role, and for this you need an outgoing person with great people skills and empathy to establish and meet the needs of clients whilst making them feel special and important.

The real role of a receptionist Tracy, is to grow their salon’s results. Reception is one of the key result areas in a salon and has many key performance indicators which can, and should, have both minimum performance standards and aspirational goals set for them.

Here are just a few of the areas that should have these set: salon utilisation, individual stylist utilisation, enquiry conversion, new client percentage, rebook percentage, upgrades, frequency of client visit, new client retention percentage, over the counter retail sales, lost client re-engagement, and there are many more.

So how does one go about setting these performance standards and goals?

The first thing to do is collate accurate

numbers for the area you wish to focus on.

Let’s say salon utilisation. Presumably you already know the utilisation percentage that you need to reach breakeven and this could be set as your minimum performance standard. Now look at your current utilisation, which is hopefully above your breakeven, and create a new, aspirational goal that you would like to achieve. Your goal must be specific, measurable, achievable, results focused and you must set a time when you either want to achieve it by or will reassess the situation.

This type of goal can then become the responsibility of your receptionist(s) and you could consider offering some form of incentive when the goal is achieved.

You can then set goals for other areas mentioned above. I would suggest focusing on growing one or two areas at a time but minimum performance standards should always be set for all areas.

A responsible, resultsdriven reception team can play a key role in growing a salon’s results.

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?

Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD

19/02/2020 12:37

#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

Reader Panel methodology: survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel ONCE EACH ISSUE of Creative HEAD lands with our subscribers, we speak to our Reader Panel to ask them how their business is going, in partnership with Phorest Salon Software. We combine the results from our Reader Panel with research compiled by Phorest Salon Software, using its client base of salons from across the UK, to gauge what’s going on in the industry and discuss how to solve common problems and issues. This month we’re talking about the positives and negatives of loyalty schemes.

HOW DO YOU COMPARE?

PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL SALES

7.5%

How was business in January compared with December?

UP 10%

DOWN 90%

How was business in January compared with January last year?

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN JANUARY (EXC. VAT)

£67.88

SAME 30%

UP 50%

DOWN 20%

THE MISSION: KEEP CLIENTS LOYAL

70%

of salons have a loyalty scheme

Reasons for having a scheme: incentive for clients to return, encourages them to try new products, rewards them for spending

Reasons for not having a scheme: difficulty to manage, not valuable enough and choosing other ways to reward clients

“We have a point-based scheme where £1 equals one point. It helps us to cross-promote products and services to clients” CHRIS SIMMONS, SALON 54

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DID YOU KNOW… A CUSTOMER USING YOUR LOYALTY SYSTEM WILL SPEND MORE, NOT LESS

LOYALTY-BUILDING: it’s one of the top three priorities for salon businesses (right up there with getting new customers and getting great staff). When you know your clients are loving their experience with you, it means they are coming back more often, spending more and generating referrals.

Let’s look at the average bill for a second.

We broke down the average spend of clients going to 5,000 salons in the UK. You could be forgiven for thinking that gifting clients treatments or products would ultimately be a loss for the books, even if it was a win for client retention. But we found those who were engaged in the Phorest Treatcard loyalty programme were not spending less visit-onvisit, they were spending on average 28 per cent more. Imagine the potential revenue boost you could get if you got more clients engaged with your loyalty system!

But always be sure to add value rather than a discount. If your client is already paying for a premium service each time they come, why would you offer them a discount or free version of that service? Instead, use the opportunity to introduce them to an add-on that they would potentially spend on in the future. Second, promote your loyalty programme by making it as visible as possible. Have it on your website, give your clients keyring cards and encourage them to download your salon app.

According to Frank di Lusso of Frank di Lusso Hair, the Treatcard programme with Phorest is a pure revenue driver for his business: “Our clients love the Treatcard, simple as that. They like getting rewards rather than discounts. And Treatcards have generated more than £35,000 in revenue since we started using them.”

In short, loyalty programmes are a nobrainer, as long as you pick the right one.

Shauna O’Halloran is content & marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware 29

18/02/2020 15:26

COLOUR VISION WE’RE DREAMING OF GOLDEN TONES AND FRESH SHADES FOR SPRING WITH THESE LATEST LOOKS FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS IN ASSOCIATION WITH

GOLDEN DAZE

It’s the final, finishing touches that make all the difference when it comes to colour. “I won’t let my clients with lightened hair leave the salon without a toning or glazing service,” says Zoë Irwin. As a two-time winner of the Most Wanted Creative Talent Award, we’re inclined to trust her opinions when it comes to next-level finishes. These glazes are a diluted wash of colour that pick up areas of pre-lightened hair and bring them to life. “I’ve lost count of the number of times a client has asked me to leave their pre-lightened hair ‘raw’ because it has that freshly lightened look they want,” she says, “but when I add a bespoke glaze they are amazed at the difference to their colour, at how much more beautiful and premium it looks.”

Inspired by blonde icons Brigitte Bardot and Monica Vitti, and a love of the dreamy haze of ’70s photography, Zoë has created a new blonde glazing menu for Wella Professionals using Illumina Color. Her role as UK colour trend expert is one that allows her to constantly innovate, experimenting with the latest products and tracking interest in numerous other colour fields to predict what’s next in hair. “Illumina Color is my absolute favourite product for glazing to create natural, sheer and luminous hair colour with a soft, diffused look,” she adds.

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18/02/2020 15:36

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

It makes hair look really expensive, chic and classy” ZOË IRWIN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT

“This is my Glazing Contour Technique using Palm Painting, which is the traditional French method. I always use Blondor Freelights to do this. This glaze is Pampelonne Peach, created using Illumina Color 10/1 and Opalessence by Illumina Color Copper Peach” Four new shades have joined the Illumina Color range from Wella Professionals. These shades are set to expand the already much-loved cool blonde range, which uses Microlight technology for a luminous, sheer colour result. It contains Wella Professionals’ most advanced technology to help prevent hair damage, and absolutely no animal-derived ingredients.

10/81 – Great for: lightening natural hair up to 3

levels, neutralisation on warm yellow and orange undertones to achieve clean, sophisticated blondes. Also ideal for toning over pre-lightened hair to achieve icy results

9/19 – Great for: gently neutralising golden hues

“This is my Glazing Balayage technique and the glaze is Sienna Sand, with Illumina Color 9/59 and Opalessence by Illumina Color Platinum Lily” CREATIVE HEAD

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when lightening, or to create a soft, icy beige when toning pre-lightened hair. Use on natural hair to achieve natural beige blondes

9/59 – Great for: toning natural hair levels 7 and above for a delicate, warmer raspberry hue

8/93 - Great for: lightening natural hair on

levels 5 and above. Beautiful for toning brunette balayage to maintain soft and natural hair highs

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TOUCH OF BRILLIANCE

GET CREATIVE WITH THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR PORTFOLIO. CREATIVE COLOUR TONING OFFERS LIMITLESS RESULTS WITH COLOR TOUCH Creative colour doesn’t have to mean vivid brights or all-over colour work. Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals technical director UK & Ireland, loves to create subtle shaping with Color Touch for fashion-forward finishes and a healthy-looking finish. “Color Touch is definitely my go-to product when it comes to toning. Being a salon owner, it’s so important to have products that instantly deliver the results we want,” he says. Color Touch is perfect for porous hair post-lifting, as it’s infused with keratin to give everything a high shine and healthy-looking finish. These low-commitment demi-permanent shades are perfect for clients who love to experiment with their looks and shades. “Don’t be scared of toning!” Rob adds. “Don’t remove the colour too soon – you need to allow the pigment to develop to enable maximum colour result and longevity.”

SHARE HOW YOU LIKE TO GET CREATIVE WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR TOUCH, FOR YOUR CHANCE TO BE FEATURED ON @WELLAHAIRUK! #WELLACOLOUR #MAKECHANGE 32

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CREATIVE HEAD

18/02/2020 15:36

GOING FOR GOLD THESE COLOUR COURSES FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS WILL HAVE EVERYTHING YOU TOUCH TURNING TO GOLD  IN MORE WAYS THAT ONE

BLONDE TOOLBOX

COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE

Maximise the potential of your blonde clients by delivering a couture service with perfect results. This advanced craft one-day course will enable you to create personalised blonde shades that attract new clients and keep existing ones excited to come back every time.

Learn how to spot those ‘lifestyle’ blonde clients and how to satisfy their colour needs with the potential of the full blonde spectrum.

From cool pearls and smoky ashes to warm and vibrant rose golds, discover the products and techniques to create couture blondes.

PRICE: £174 PLUS VAT Running throughout 2020. Contact your local Wella Studio for dates and further details.

It’s become THE essential service to have on your colour menu – but it remains one of the trickiest skills to master. Take the guesswork out of the craft to focus on perfect balayage creations with this one-day Essential Craft course. It will help to ensure that you can create fashion-focused looks in salon-friendly times. Build your confidence and master the art of the seamless blend.

PRICE: £174 PLUS VAT Running throughout 2020. Contact your local Wella Studio for dates and further details.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

#ColourVision

STAR BLONDE EDUCATION PACKAGE

Almost half of all salon clients ask for some form of lightening service, so you need to be ready for any challenge you might face.

The Star Blonde package has been crafted to give you all the skills you need to be a rock star when it comes to blondes.

DISCOVER HOUSE OF BLONDOR (Two hours) Complimentary (valued at £100)

CREATIVE HEAD

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COLOUR CRAFT BALAYAGE (One day) £174

BLONDE TOOLBOX (One day) £174

ULTIMATE BALAYAGE (One day) £174

STAR BLONDE PACKAGE £415 Actual value £522 – save £107

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SHELFIE TIME My favourite way to lighten hair is freehand using a French balayage technique called Palm Painting, and my secret weapon is definitely Blondor Freelights. I love it because it gives up to seven levels of clean lift and also gives me incredible creativity and precision when I am using my brush, palms and fingers to pre-lighten hair. With the creamy consistency and the way the product spreads so easily, it’s a dream to use. The results leave everybody delighted.”

ZOË IRWIN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK COLOUR TREND EXPERT

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

“People’s lives are so busy and so the whole scenario of people not having time to come to the salon means I always feel like I’m having to say to my teams ‘speed up, you’re too slow’. I’m a woman in business with a family and I have lots to do, so I get it, and what we get as a result is people doing their colour at home. That’s always a massive issue for hairdressers because it’s such a nightmare to correct. My message is always about the journey in what we do, and part of that is time management. I think of my clients who previously had time to spare would happily spend all day in the salon. Now, 10 years down the line, those clients have to pick up kids and are much busier, so we really need to be aware of that time issue. Offering express colour services like No Strings Attached Colour for more regular visits, but less time spent in the chair each time, helps. To stop clients from reaching for box dyes, and then having to spend twice as long repairing the colour, we need to put them on a colour journey that they understand. Put the time in at the beginning – and schedule colour appointments in between to maintain it. Once clients start on their journey and are committed then we can do those quick appointments they want.”

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Sanrizz

DOWN THE COUNTRY, EVERY ISSUE WE TACKLE A COLOUR CONUNDRUM WHICH IS FRUSTRATING COLOURISTS UP AND Z TAKES ISSUE WITH TIMING WITH THE HELP OF WELLA’S COLOUR CREATIVE GUEST ARTISTS. SHARON COX FROM SANRIZ

CREATIVE HEAD

18/02/2020 15:37

WHY I’M WELLA

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

#ColourVision

There are many reasons why I love Wella Professionals. First, it’s the amazing choice of products it offers. From stunning colours and can’t-live-without styling products, to an extensive range of haircare products that cover all hair and scalp types, there is always a product to help inspire our teams and delight our clients. Second, both the technical and business support has been invaluable to KH Hair in helping us grow and improve our brand. Finally, we love that Wella is constantly striving to be at the forefront of hair innovation.

For these, and so many other reasons, we have enjoyed every moment of our 35-year partnership with them. This year KH Hair is celebrating its centenary and we’re thrilled to be collaborating with Wella on some really interesting and creative projects. We look forward to even more exciting times ahead.”

KH Hair

DARREN MESSIAS MANAGING DIRECTOR, KH HAIR

COLOUR CONFIDENTLY WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS. CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS SALES REP OR CALL YOUR LOCAL WELLA STUDIO: LONDON  020 3650 4700 MANCHESTER  0161 8342645 DISCOVER THE PRODUCTS AT UK.WELLASTORE.COM. BOOK YOUR FACETOFACE STUDIO AND ONLINE EDUCATION AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM @wellahairuk #WellaColour #ColourFlirt CREATIVE HEAD

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Wella Professionals

@WellaPRO 35

19/02/2020 14:51

4 NEW ILLUMINA COLOR SHADES TO EXPAND YOUR COOL BLONDE PORTFOLIO

Sheer colour results with natural luminosity Our most advanced technology against hair damage No animal-derived ingredients

10/81

9/19

9/59

8/93

Book a course in one of our studios London: +44 803 650 4700 Manchester: +44 161 834 2645 Dublin:+35 314 160 900 uk.wellastore.com @wellahairuk #WellaColour

NO BLONDE

LEFT UNTONED Hair by Zoe Irwin, Wella Professionals Colour Trends Expert

Christopher Appleton

n i y t n Ple

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Royal Horticultural Halls

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IVE HEAD T A E

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2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

THE DATE: SEPTEMBER 2010

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

The It List, shining a spotlight on emerging hairdressing talents aged 30 and under, joined the Most Wanted Awards in 2010. The first ever glittering ceremony was hosted by Jimmy Carr and held at Fashion Week venue the Royal Horticultural Halls in London. Our five It List winners included Christopher Appleton, whom judges – including Professor Louise Wilson from Central Saint Martins, designer and author Doris Lockhart, fashion historian Caroline Cox and the beauty directors of ELLE, Marie Claire and Tatler – awarded the title One To Watch. Christopher is now based in Los Angeles and hairdresser to Kim Kardashian West and Jennifer Lopez, so they clearly knew what they were talking about…

2020

The 2020 Most Wanted and The It List Awards are open for entries!

Turn to page 48 for more

Carly Aplin

AS CREATIVE HEAD CELEBRATES ITS 20TH BIRTHDAY, WE’RE LOOKING BACK OVER THOSE TWO DECADES TO SELECT SOME CHOICE HIGHLIGHTS FROM OUR HALLOWED HISTORY

2020

Nikki Moores

THE MOMENT: THE IT LIST LAUNCHES AT THE 10TH MOST WANTED AWARDS

Jimmy Carr with the 2010 team

Andrew Thomas Corbett

Photography by Jon Baker

Martin Reichelt

0

Si n c e 2 0

WANT TO SEE the full Creative HEAD timeline?

Visit creativeheadmag.com for more

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CREATIVE HEAD

17/02/2020 13:46

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

MAKE A SPLASH!

*When using HydraSplash Shampoo, Conditioner, and Leave-in, or HydraSplash Shampoo and Gelée Masque

DRY, FINE HAIR WILL LAP UP THIS NEW LAUNCH FROM JOICO

PARCHED WINTER HAIR, savaged by central heating, attacked by wind and rain? Frizz, split ends, colour damage, over-styling and breakage… You feel your clients’ pain. And of course, you know it doesn’t have to be like this.

Launching in salons this month, the new HydraSplash collection from JOICO provides 24-hour hydration* for fine to medium hair, replenishing moisture, shine and softness without weighing hair down.

The luxurious lather of HydraSplash Hydrating Shampoo (300ml/10.1fl oz) swiftly removes residue without stripping away important moisture, leaving hair clean, soft and healthy-looking.

Dense, overly creamy conditioners simply leave fine hair flat and lifeless. HydraSplash Hydrating Conditioner (250ml/8.5fl oz) detangles and restores elasticity with a lightweight formula that won’t drag hair down.

The unique HydraSplash Hydrating Gelée Masque (150ml/5.07fl oz) creates a wave of hydration without overpowering delicate strands – the ultimate thirst-quencher for fine, dry, parched hair.

Ideal as a pre blow-dry treatment, HydraSplash Hydrating Replenishing Leave-In (100ml/3.38fl oz) not only delivers a dose of hydration, it also banishes frizz to leave hair supple, soft and shiny. The instant effects are visible, and carry on working long after application.

Give your clients a spring refresh. Dry, brittle, delicate hair is nourished and transformed by new JOICO HydraSplash with the gentle touch it needs.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT JOICO HYDRASPLASH AT JOICO.EU 39

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19/02/2020 14:48

CLUB

cH CREATIVE HEAD

FOR BUSINESS

NEW RULES: Have fun

Make lots of

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£49.99*

FOR JUST

£10 YOU’LL GET: • 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, PAINT and HEAD for Business – delivered to your door • Exclusive ticket prices for Creative HEAD events**

Win not one but TWO Diva Pro electrical tools, worth more than £100 Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for you too! One lucky Club member has the chance to win the Diva Veloce Hair Dryer, £49.99, AND the Diva Rapida Hair Dryer, £59.99. Simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD Club members will receive an email on 1 March!

FOR E CREATIV B HEAD CLUS ER B EM M ONLY

• Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands

*For the first 20 new members to sign up between 1 March and 31 March 2020. Subject to availability, colours may vary, and no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only. For more details contact events@alfol.co.uk

SPRING/2019

FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS

ALREADY A CLUB MEMBER? THEN WE MIGHT HAVE A BIRTHDAY PRESENT FOR YOU…

INSIDE THIS ISSUE FOR TWO CREATIVE HEAD CLUB MEMBERS WILL BE A PLATINUM TICKET, WHICH MEANS A GIFT FROM SOME VERY GENEROUS HAIRDRESSING BRANDS!

Experience the incredible portfolio of ASP Affinage Salon Professional with this Botanical Colour introductory kit and Colour Dynamics kit duo, worth £176+ VAT!

Feel the heat with a stylist’s edit* of Neuro tools and Neuro Liquid goodies from John Paul Mitchell Systems, worth £790 – thanks Salon Success!

*Not all products in the edit are pictured

In March, you could win…

Join the Creative HEAD Club now for just £10!

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18/02/2020 09:31

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

THIRST QUENCHER *When using Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Treatment Balm; against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo **When using Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Moisture Recovery Conditioner versus untreated, damaged hair ***When using Moisture Recovery Shampoo and Treatment Balm; against combing breakage on damaged hair versus a non-conditioning shampoo

JOICO’S MOISTURE RECOVERY LINE HAS A NEW LOOK AND NEW TECHNOLOGY. DRINK IT IN…

DRY, DULL, FLYAWAY and static-loaded split ends are common features of thick, coarse hair. Winter weather will only have compounded the problem (and probably created a morning hair routine that lasts longer than a paper round). Good to hear, therefore, that from this month your moisture-ravaged clients can dive into JOICO’s Moisture Recovery line – now infused with nourishing Jojoba Oil, vitamin-packed sea kelp and the brand’s unique liposome delivery system, SmartRelease Technology, to deliver the deep replenishment they need for their hair to look and feel beautifully shiny and healthy all day. According to JOICO, a single treatment delivers 24-hour moisture replenishment,* double the softness** and leaves it three-times less prone to breakage.*** That’s some recovery!

Each revitalising wash with the luxurious Moisture Recovery Moisturizing Shampoo (300ml/10.1fl oz) restores elasticity and smoothness to coarse, brittle hair. There’s a reason it’s called “hydration salvation”!

Moisture Recovery Moisturising Conditioner (250ml/8.5fl oz) restores softness, smoothness and shine to tired, fried, frizzy hair, with an instant detangling effect for easier styling.

Thirsty for more? Reach for Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm (250ml/8.5fl oz). Three to five minutes is all it takes for this intensive treatment to increase strength, reduce breakage, calm frizz and bump up shine and softness.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT JOICO MOISTURE RECOVERY AT JOICO.EU 41

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17/02/2020 13:48

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS

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17/02/2020 14:41

PROGRESS PREPARE AND BUILD FOR THE FUTURE

DEVELOP YOUR TEAM FIND YOUR SPECIALISM MODERNISE AND UPGRADE THINK SUSTAINABILITY SET NEW GOALS EXPAND YOUR CREATIVITY

#29 & 30 MARCH PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL

BOOK IT NOW!

*Terms and conditions apply

Weekend Pass £295 plus VAT | Double Deal £450 plus VAT | Day Pass £100 plus VAT* BUY TICKETS ONLINE CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL 01434 610944

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

ASSOCIATE SPONSORS

17/02/2020 14:42

Sam Burnett Hare & Bone

Sarah Vigrass Treatwell

Billy Fry and Ellenora Dean Fry + Dean

Gina Conway Gina Conway Salons & Spas

Monica Teodoro L’Oréal Professionnel

Ken West 3•6•5 Education

Elena Lavagni Neville Hair & Beauty

Giorgia Rossi Treatwell

Brent Mossop Bar Hairdressing

Matt Bartell Threads & Co

Mark Maciver and the SliderCuts team

Elena Tayleur Linnaean

Leo Bancroft Leo Bancroft

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS

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19/02/2020 16:26

Gavin Mills Bad Apple Hair

Katie Allan Mayfive

Christel Barron-Hough STIL

Ian Broderick CV Hair

Anita Rice Buller and Rice Kenna Kennaland

Mark Woolley Electric London

Tom Chapman The Lions Barber Collective

THE PRESENTERS – READY TO SHARE

Jordanna Cobella Cobella

29 & 30 MARCH PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL

Richard Phillipart The Boutique Atelier

LAST CHANCE! *Terms and conditions apply

Weekend Pass £295 plus VAT | Double Deal £450 plus VAT | Day Pass £100 plus VAT* BUY TICKETS ONLINE CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�SALONSMART OR CALL 01434 610944

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

ASSOCIATE SPONSORS

17/02/2020 14:44

CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS

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17/02/2020 14:45

TWO DAYS ALL THIS! ALL MAIN STAGE SESSIONS LIVE DEBATE AND Q&A TWO WORKSHOPS THE WORKING LUNCH MEET & MIX DRINKS RECEPTION THREE-COURSE DINNER WITH WINE PLUS 4* OVERNIGHT STAY WITH BREAKFAST

THE FULL BUSINESS PACKAGE

#29 & 30 MARCH PARK PLAZA LONDON RIVERBANK HOTEL

FINAL CALL!

*Terms and conditions apply

Weekend Pass £295 plus VAT | Double Deal £450 plus VAT | Day Pass £100 plus VAT* BUY TICKETS ONLINE CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL 01434 610944

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

ASSOCIATE SPONSORS

17/02/2020 14:45

MW IT20

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2020

2020

OPEN FOR ENTRY! CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS CELEBRATE THE MOST EXCITING AND ACCOMPLISHED TALENTS IN UK AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING. WILL YOU SEE YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS IN 2020?

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�MOSTWANTED CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�THEITLIST #MWIT20 �CREATIVEHEADMAG

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event

17/02/2020 14:49

2020

14 AWARDS – ARE YOU READY TO CLAIM ONE? SINCE 2000, CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED

has catapulted the hairdressing industry’s brightest and most brilliant stars into the spotlight, honouring everyone from creative colourists and runway rebels to local salon heroes, tireless educators, pioneers and trendsetters.

Which trophy will have your name on it in this, our most glittery and glamorous 20th birthday year?

SALON | SESSION | STARS

2020 CATEGORIES > ALL OPEN TO HAIR PROFESSIONALS, SALONS AND FREELANCERS IN THE UK AND IRELAND

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17/02/2020 14:50

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST

FOR A SALON OR SESSION HAIRDRESSER DEMONSTRATING STANDOUT WORK IN MEN’S HAIR Category sponsor

INDEPENDENT STYLIST

SALON AWARDS BEST SALON TEAM

FOR SALON TEAMWORK AT ITS BEST Category sponsor

BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON

FOR A STYLIST LOOKING AFTER CLIENTS WHILE BUSINESS BUILDING ‘BRAND ME’

FOR A NEW SMALL SALON WITH A UNIQUE SENSE OF STYLE Category sponsor

Category sponsor

BUSINESS THINKER

FOR A SALON OWNER OR DIRECTOR WHO HAS BUILT AN OUTSTANDING SALON BUSINESS

BEST NEW SALON

FOR A NEW OR REVAMPED SALON WITH SUSTAINABILITY AT ITS CORE Category sponsor

Category sponsor

CREATIVE TALENT

FOR A CREATIVE DIRECTOR OR SENIOR STYLIST WITH EXCEPTIONAL ARTISTIC SKILL AND COMMERCIAL EXPERTISE

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE

FOR A SALON THAT DELIVERS TOP CUSTOMER SERVICE Category sponsor

Category sponsor

COLOUR EXPERT

FOR A COLOUR DIRECTOR OR SENIOR COLOURIST WITH EXCEPTIONAL TECHNICAL SKILL AND COMMERCIAL EXPERTISE

BEST LOCAL SALON

FOR A SALON THAT BEST SERVES ITS LOCAL COMMUNITY Category sponsor

Category sponsor

AWARDS BY NOMINATION

HAIR TREND

FOR THE BEST ON-TREND IMAGE OF THE YEAR Category sponsor

SESSION STYLIST

FOR THE MOST EXCITING HAIRDRESSER WORKING IN FASHION

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

Category sponsor

HAIR ICON

FOR THE MOST INSPIRATIONAL HAIRDRESSER OF 2020 Category sponsor

REWARDING AN ORIGINAL HAIRDRESSING INITIATIVE THAT HAS PROVED A SUCCESS FOR THE SALON BUSINESS OR THE INDUSTRY AT LARGE Category sponsor

MOST WANTED DATES AND DEADLINES event #MWIT20 @CREATIVEHEADMAG

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ENTRY FORMS CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED COMPETITION CLOSES 5PM, WEDNESDAY 13 MAY FINALISTS REVEALED WEDNESDAY 10 JUNE GRAND FINAL MONDAY 7 SEPTEMBER QUESTIONS? EVENTS@ALFOL.CO.UK OR CALL 01434 610 940

19/02/2020 14:39

2020

!

T I O D S ’ T E L ?

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WA

YOUR MARK E K A M O T T N A ITIOUS AND W B M A , G E CAREER N T U A O IM Y T E L U E H T R IF YOU’R GET READY FO , G IN S S R ENTRY! E O R F D N IR E A P O IN H IS 0 2 E IT LIST 20 ADMAG KICKSTART – TH @CREATIVEHE

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#MWIT20

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S E I R O G E T A C 0 202 he ip with ghd, T h rs e n rt a p r e in an exclusiv K and Irish hairdressing fo D A E H e v ti a Cre ew in U Presented by st important competition er. The search is on for a n o d n m u e ed 30 or It List is th fessionals ag t big thing in hair? ro p g in s s re d nex hair . Are YOU the roster of stars

AR T S G N I S I R THE

HUSIASTIC, WHO IS ENT TEAM STAR! T N A T IS S S G SALON A ING – A NEW FOR A YOUNING AND FAST IMPROV K R HARDWO

NEW!

IST L Y T S L A I R THE EDITO S ON SET

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event

REATIVEHEAD NESDAY 13 MAY C S M R O F Y R T ED EN LOSES 5PM, W AY 10 JUNE C N IO IT T E P M D CO ALED WEDNES BER E V E R S T IS L A FIN 1434 610 940 7 SEPTEM 0 Y L A L D A N C O R M O L K A .U O GRAND FIN NTS@ALFOL.C E V E IL A M E ?

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17/02/2020 14:51

EDINBURGH MONDAY 16 MARCH, 7-10PM, DOVECOT STUDIOS

#SydSquad

INDEPENDENTLY AWESOME BUT TOGETHER THEY ARE A SUPER SQUAD OF SESSION STYLING GENIUSES…

Syd Hayes

Paula McCash

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17/02/2020 15:27

MODEL TEAM CALVIN KLEIN, CÉLINE, RALPH LAUREN, COOL COLLABORATIONS ARE DAILY OCCURRENCES AT SCOTLAND’S LONGEST ESTABLISHED FASHION MODEL AGENCY…

Pamela McCallum

Connor Reilly

EDINBURGH EVENT MONDAY 16 MARCH

7-10PM, DOVECOT STUDIOS TICKETS £25 / FIVE FOR £100 / CLUB MEMBERS PAY £15

BOOK NOW AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE OR CALL 01434 610 416 Includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from sponsor BaByliss PRO

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17/02/2020 15:27

Noughties by nature WELCOME TO AVEDA ARTIST, A COMPETITION TO CELEBRATE THE TALENT ACROSS THE AVEDA SALON NETWORK. AND THE PRIZE IS A BIG ONE – STYLISTS UP AND DOWN THE UK SUBMIT CREATIVE IMAGES ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR THE CHANCE TO WIN A SHOOT PUBLISHED IN CREATIVE HEAD, AND MENTORED

BY MEMBERS OF THE AVEDA ARTISTIC TEAM. THIS SPRING, LET’S EMBRACE AN ATHLEISURE VIBE WITH A NU NOUGHTIES THEME, AS MARY DODD AND SARAH JUMA GET BUSY BRAIDING WITH AVEDA’S OWN BEA CARMICHAEL. PLAIT’S THE WAY TO DO IT…

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLIN DACK

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL GO ONLINE to see all competition entries – search #avedaartist on Instagram, or visit @AvedaUK

CREATIVE HEAD

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“I’ve never done anything like this before. I’ve learnt a lot today – being precise with everything, because if a hair is out of place it’ll show on the pictures. I wanted to show different skills so I chose three different types of braids – a Dutch braid, a Chinese ladder braid and a figure-of-eight braid. I wanted to fit in as much texture and dimension as possible” MARY DODD @MARYALICEHAIR

“We wanted summer ’00s braids, and I used YouTube and Instagram for inspiration and ideas. This has about six braids all different sized because I wanted it to look different. I pulled them apart to add more texture instead of doing the normal two-stranded braid” SARAH JUMA @HAIRBYSJLONDON

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19/02/2020 14:49

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

CREATIVE DIRECTION Bea Carmichael @beacarmichael13. COLOUR Danielle Laing @daniella_coolabella, Taylor Demarco @taylordemarco_x. STYLING Mary Dodd @maryalicehair, Sarah Juma @hairbysjlondon. MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio @lucy.broggio_mua. PHOTOGRAPHY Colin Dack @colin_dack

“The Aveda Artist shoot opens the door to published work, giving the individual the opportunity to create their artistic vision. We celebrate the winners and the salons they work in – it’s incredible to see your image in a magazine that both hairdressers and clients read. With Creative HEAD, the dream of having work published in a fantastic magazine becomes a reality!”

BEA CARMICHAEL, AVEDA GLOBAL EDUCATOR @BEACARMICHAEL13

CREATIVE HEAD

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ELECTRICALS

…SO TAKE OUT ALL YOUR OLD, WORN-OUT HOT TOOLS FROM YOUR KIT AND REPLENISH IT WITH SOME OF THE FRESHEST AND MOST FABULOUS STYLERS, DRYERS, WANDS AND CLIPPERS TO ENSURE YOU’RE UP TO ANY TASK YOU’RE CHALLENGED WITH! THE HEAT IS ON HAIRDRESSERS AND THEIR tools, it’s a love affair for the ages.

Stylists can be very selective about what to use on their clients’ hair and like to stick to a brand they know and trust. What works for one might not be quite right for another. It could be too loud, too heavy, the cord too short… we get it. These are the tools of your trade.

Where do we start? The dryer is perhaps the electrical tool you use the most. On average, professional hair dryers should last roughly 800 hours before they admit defeat, and this also depends on the right care and maintenance. But with so much on the market to choose from, it’s tough to know where to begin.

AC|DC MOTORS – WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

AC or DC? Do these options leave you ‘Thunderstruck’? Sorry, couldn’t resist. The type of motor installed in a hair dryer will make a difference on the power, air flow and the heat diffused out of it.

AC (alternating current) motors are typically heavier, have a longer life expectancy, faster drying time and are much quieter than their DC (direct current) counterparts. However, as technology has developed over the years, brushless DC motors with integrated

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AC-DC power supply are being used by most major hair dryer manufacturers. Why? Well, whereas prior carbon ‘brushes’ tended to wear out over time and cause the motor to stop working, ‘brushless’ motors use magnets and electronics to drive the rotations instead. This can extend the life of the dryer to be roughly 10 times longer than AC motor dryers.

These integrated units weigh far less than a conventional AC motor and are substantially smaller in size, which has contributed significantly to making hair dryers easier to handle. New from ghd, the helios professional hair dryer contains a brushless motor, while also being quieter and giving users 30 per cent shinier hair to boot.

Aeroprecis technology delivers a concentrated temperature and airflow distribution, giving the stylist more precise control and less frizz.

Of course, bucking the trend entirely is the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional editioncontaining its own V9 digital motor.

It contains an axial flow impeller that’s essentially like a modern jet engine sucking air in and out along the direction of the motor’s axis, helping keep the motor diameter as small as possible while delivering high airflow.

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#Electricals TOO HOT TO HANDLE

The type of plate in your straighteners is a fiercely discussed topic in hairdressing. Everyone has their favourite but it’s worth noting a few fundamental differences. Ceramic plates have high ranges of heat options, they won’t get hot spots and are less likely to create tangles when pulling hair.

If you’re looking for quick heat and a kit bag that won’t weigh you down, titanium is the way to go. It’s fast, light, and the metal lasts for a long time because it’s not porous like ceramic.

Tourmaline-covered plates are durable as they are less likely to chip or suffer heat loss over time. The smooth finish it creates will keep heat on the plate, which means consistent heat all over.

SEE Zoë Irwin styling this look on Creative HEAD TV! creativeheadmag.com/ch-tv

TREAT YOUR TOOL TO A LITTLE TLC

As a professional, you know that keeping your kit clean is essential. For hygiene and safety, of course, but also keeping a tool well maintained will make a huge difference as to how effectively it works and how long it lasts.

Removing and emptying a filter should be carried out at least once a week on a professionally-used hair dryer. If the filter is backed up with debris, dust and anything else, your expensive dryer will end up working overtime. It’ll shorten its lifespan and your return on investment will be rubbish. At the top end of the price point, the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional comes with a removable, washable filter that also boasts its own edition cleaning brush, encouraging stylists to take a little time out of their routines to invest in a cleaning ritual for their dryer.

With curling tongs and wands, Syd Hayes, session stylist and ambassador for BaByliss PRO, recommends cleaning them with a cloth, ensuring they are completely cool and unplugged first.

“Use a slightly damp cloth and wipe over the barrel and handle gently,” he says. “Even if there’s product stuck to the barrel don’t be tempted to use a scourer, as this can remove the coating or damage the product.”

A pair of quality clippers are an essential bit of kit for any stylist and there are several elements to consider before investing.

First is the motor. Rotary, magnetic, and pivot motors are the three most common types found in professional clippers and each offer something different but they should all last as long as your working day without overheating. Next are the blades, for obvious reasons. Common materials used for hair clipper blades include titanium, stainless steel, ceramic coated and carbon. Finally, how easy the clipper is to use. A lot of aspects go into deciding this and a lot depends on personal preference but much hinges on the weight, design and grip. If you’re holding it for eight hours a day or more it needs to be comfortable to hold but also robust enough to last a long time.

Any barber worth their salt will tell you caring for your blades is essential in maintaining their longevity and performance. “Start by turning off the clipper and removing fragments of hair from the blade with a clipper brush or compressor,” says Lynndy Rolfe, international educator at Andis. “Clean and disinfect the blades using an appropriate solution and wipe dry. After that, it’s essential to oil your clipper to keep it running smoothly before storing in a proper kit bag.”

Sam McKnight for BaByliss PRO at Max Mara

Zoë Irwin for ghd helios

CLIPPERS FOR THE WIN

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#Electricals

The heat of the moment

OF YOUR INNOVATIVE, CREATIVE AND OH-SO SEXY, THIS IS OUR PICK OF THE NEW TOOLS

TRADE

andis master cordless clippers “I use the Master Cordless every day – it’s changed my working life. It has all the same power and precision as the original Master clipper but without a cord. It’s so light, too! I recommend it to anyone looking to invest in their kit and their career” BALDY, ANDIS EUROPEAN LEAD EDUCATOR £250, barberblades.co.uk

ghd helios This new dryer offers longer-lasting results thanks to Aeroprecis technology, a combination of internal aerodynamics and a contoured nozzle. Drying time is also reduced due to its brushless 2,200W DC motor, which also makes it lighter and more efficient for pros to use. £159, ghdhair.com

Electric London WT-2 Professional Straightening Iron Designed by Most Wanted Award winner Mark Woolley, this wonder tool features a digital temperature control that allows you to set the perfect heat for the purpose. Worried about frazzling over-processed hair? Not a problem with the titanium plates that provide a smooth glide through. £95, electric-hair.com

Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional To use it once is to truly believe in the magic of this wonder tool. It’s quiet, quick and claims to increase smoothness by 75 per cent, increase shine by up to 132 per cent, and decrease frizz and flyaways. £275, dyson.com Cloud Nine Micro Wand This new baby of the Cloud Nine family is designed to enhance and define to create natural-looking curls that last. It features a tapered, mineral-infused ceramic barrel to produce anything from tight curls to large waves. No session stylist should be without one. £109.99, cloudninehair.com

BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Curling Tong Combining adjustable heat up to 210°C with a titanium ceramic barrel, these tongs deliver constant, even heat distribution for smooth, glossy curls. £50, babylisspro.co.uk

L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod 3.0 Unlike traditional styling tools, this clever gadget uses steam to tame hair with minimal damage. With a bristled brush on one side and a smooth plate on the other, high pressure steam delivers shine. £199, lorealprofessionnel.co.uk Diva Professional Veloce 3800 Pro Salon technology and performance combined with a pocket-pleasing price, the Veloce 3800 Pro Dryer is great for your salon and retail. £49.99, divapro.co.uk

Hair Tools Electric Head Jog Steam Straightener “This is a game-changer in electrical heat styling. I’ve been using the Electric Head Jog Steam Straightener on my clients for straightening, curling and waving hair because it creates stunning results and hair is left nourished, healthy and full of glossy shine, thanks to the steam function. My clients love the look and feel of their hair afterwards” GARY TAYLOR, EDWARD & CO £39.99+VAT, hairtools.co.uk 64

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WE’VE GOT THE POWER TANGLE TEEZER’S PATENTED TEETH MEAN THAT THE POWER IS ALWAYS IN YOUR HANDS, NO MATTER THE SITUATION

TANGLE TEEZER tools have been a tried and tested favourite for stylists since they launched more than a decade ago. But what is it about them that makes their performance unrivalled from the backwash through to the styling station? The answer is simple: it’s their unique teeth.

Innovation is at the core of Tangle Teezer’s business, to be able to revolutionise what stylists and clients alike can expect from a hairbrush, whether it’s used for detangling, blow-drying or styling hair.

Tangle Teezer’s exclusive, patented teeth technology is adapted across each hairbrush to suit every hair type from fine, coloured locks to thick, textured curls.

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DETANGLING

The long teeth detangle, remove knots, reduce breakage and leave hair healthier-looking, while the short teeth smooth and leave it looking glossy and frizz-free.

BLOW-STYLING

Hair flows effortlessly through the bottle-shaped fixed base teeth, while the heat-resistant flexible tips offer precise pick up at the root. The overlapping configuration extracts excess water for a faster drying time.

STYLING

Whether you’re looking to create volume, texture, height and create up-dos or simply add amazing smoothness and shine to your client’s hair, the styling range can do the job with ease.

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17/02/2020 13:55

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Styles to sink your teeth into

TANGLE TEEZER HAS CREATED A COLLECTION OF LOOKS AS A STUNNING SOURCE OF INSPIRATION

ALL-TIME HERO

MID-LENGTH MAGIC

BOB BRIGADE

A timeless and classic style with a modern twist. Inspired by the big and bouncy voluminous blow-drys of the ’60s (think Brigitte Bardot), it’s suitable for all hair lengths, worn with height and volume at the crown, a slight dishevelled wave and plenty of movement. Add a simple hair band to elevate the look.

Mid-length hair remains a hugely popular trend this year due to its versatility. Create natural volume and movement by setting the hair in loose, large pin curls after blow-drying and choosing a relaxed parting for a natural, effortless result.

A great bob never goes out of fashion, and jaw-line styles are very much in this season. Create a smooth and shiny finish with defined ends using these tools for a chic finish. Depending on your client, you can interpret this to achieve sharper, more textured ends or a smoother, bevelled shape.

The Wet Detangler Blow Styling Round Tool (Full Size) Back-Combing Tool

Salon Elite Blow Styling Round Tool (Half Size) The Ultimate

The Wet Detangler Blow Styling Paddle Tool (Half Size) The Ultimate

DETANGLING, BLOW-DRYING OR STYLING – WHATEVER TANGLE TEEZER YOU CHOOSE, THE POWER IS ALWAYS IN THE TEETH. DISCOVER FOR YOURSELF AT TANGLETEEZER.COM @TangleTeezer CREATIVE HEAD

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E R I F N O L R I G

#MWIT

S, COUNTING TOP SUPERMODELS AS CLIENT TO WS SHO N HIO FAS ON NES SCE THE LIST AWARD FROM WORKING BEHIND RAL MOST WANTED INDEPENDENT STY UGU INA THE D OPE SCO H CAS MC LA IT’S NO WONDER PAU

LISTING PAULA MCCASH’S work as a session hairdresser is akin to reading a roll call of the most exciting forces in fashion, from living legends to exciting new names. She’s styled Georgia May Jagger, Ugbad Abdi, Erin O’Connor and Liv Tyler, and was responsible for shaving Adwoa Aboah’s hair at the A/W19 Matty Bovan show. Her catwalk credentials include House of Holland and Shrimps, she’s worked on campaigns for brands including

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Polo Ralph Lauren, been published in Vogue – and now she’s the first winner of the Most Wanted Independent Stylist Award.

Paula cut her teeth as a hairdresser during competitions in Scotland, an experience that helped hone her skills and realise her passion for hair. “I’m originally from Dundee and was part of not only the McIntyre’s but also the Alan Edwards creative teams and won both men’s and women’s categories in the L’Oréal Colour

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This image: hair by Paula McCash for BaByliss PRO, fashion by Mekel Bailey, make-up by Cat Parnell, photography by Jon Baker. As seen exclusively in Creative HEAD October 2018

Trophy for Scotland,” Paula explains. “Through being in a team, pushing myself technically and artistically, I discovered this is what I love. It gave me the confidence I needed.”

It was only a matter of time until Paula was enticed down to the fashion capital of the UK, where she’s built a network of contacts. “I collaborate with lots of creatives that I have connected with over the years and feel I am part of a new breed of emerging stylists and photographers,” she explains.

“I’ve had my work published in Vogue and LOVE, and I work on global advertising campaigns alongside Syd.” Syd, of course, refers to Syd Hayes – backstage star, winner of two Most Wanted Session Stylist titles and the man that calls Paula his ‘right-hand woman’ on set. “I seriously lobbied Syd and his agent to be part of his show team and then did two seasons with him before being appointed as his first assistant,” reveals Paula. “Not only is this a high-pressure job, but it also comes with a lot of responsibilities. I need to ensure my skills are honed and I am constantly developing and learning new techniques to enable me to execute Syd’s vision.”

Another highlight was contributing to Edward Enninful’s first issue as editor of Vogue in December 2017. “It was a shoot called ‘Sunglasses’ and the brief was to keep it real – working with the models’ own texture and emphasising natural beauty. There wasn’t much time allocated, so I had to do a lot of hair on set. It’s amazing what you can come up with in a short space of time!”

When she’s not on set or backstage, Paula splits her time between a studio in Soho and a salon in East London, where she rents a chair to fit in with her own hectic schedule. “I’ve built up a loyal clientele and now work from a private little studio in Soho called About This Place,” she says. “It’s appointment-only and has a fantastic view over the rooftops of London, which my clients love. I manage my own schedule and book myself into the studio whenever I’m free from session work. Some of my clients prefer East and some prefer Soho, so this allows great flexibility for them and also ensures I maintain a diverse clientele.”

Solid foundations have been a secret to Paula’s success – it’s impossible to underestimate the importance of the fundamentals. “I have a strong understanding of classic hair techniques from working in salons since I was a Saturday girl and still at school,” she says. “In recent years, colouring and styling wigs has become second nature and it really is a game changer in session work.

If I won the lottery I would buy a studio full of wigs just to experiment with. That would be my hairdressing geek’s dream!”

The hairdressing landscape is forever changing and, to reflect the rise in freelance hairdressers, Creative HEAD launched the Most Wanted Independent Stylist Award for 2019. When Paula won the trophy, she described the moment as giving her a real sense of achievement. “It’s easy for someone like me to slip through the net somewhere between the session world and the hairdressing industry,” says Paula. “I’m super-grateful as the category has me down to a tee! Winning has given me recognition within the industry and it’s also allowed me to build stronger relationships with brands and publications. It’s given me confidence to continue to pursue my career path, knowing I have the support of the industry behind me.”

SEE PAULA, Syd Hayes and the Syd Squad talk live at the Coterie Edinburgh on 19 March creativeheadmag.com/events

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2019

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BORNE OUT OF SAM BURNETT’S PASSION FOR BIG HAIR AND MAXIMUM TEXTURE, GLITTERBOX FROM THE HARE & BONE ART TEAM IS ALL ABOUT HAVING FUN, EXPLORING AND PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF DIFFERENT TEXTURES PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY HANDS CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Hare & Bone Art Team. MAKE-UP Bea Sweet. STYLING Neil Stuart.

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Good times THE SAKS BEST OF TIMES BRAND CAMPAIGN WELCOMES HEART-STOPPINGLY BEAUTIFUL LOOKS THAT REAL WOMEN UP AND DOWN THE UK WILL CRAVE PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE HARBOUR

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HAIR Saks Art Team. STYLING Karl Willett. MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen-Grealis.

Scene Darren Fowler

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Blow UP

Starting a new decade of creativity and inspiration, Fashion in Motion returned to the V&A with a bang, as Central Saint Martins graduate Fredrik Tjærandsen showcased highlights from his incredible Moments of Clarity presentation. Having set social media ablaze last year with his otherworldly rubber ‘bubbles’ from the BA Fashion showcase, Tjærandsen won the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award last year, despite not a single stitch being used in the collection. Made entirely from biodegradable natural rubber latex sourced sustainably and responsibly from growers in Sri Lanka, Tjærandsen’s designs support local communities making a living from the forests. Leading the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio hair team backstage was Fowler35’s Darren Fowler, who took inspiration from the garments to create a sculpted, wet look across nine models. TECNI.ART Extreme Splash was applied with a brush to keep hair slicked down without the use of oil, which would melt the latex. Don’t want to cause a bang…

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From left: Lisa Oxenham, Madeleine Spencer, Adam Andrascik, Luke Hersheson, Zoë Irwin and Harriet Stokes

Going THROUGH changes PRINT VERSUS DIGITAL. Social media stand out.

Authenticity versus over-sharing. These, and other pressing existential questions for the hair professional and modern citizen, formed the basis for the first Coterie gathering of the year – and with no fewer than six guest speakers and the promise of goody bags filled with the stunning new JoiFull volumising range from sponsor JOICO, it’s no wonder the event was packed to the rafters. The Times They Are A-Changin’ saw questions being posed by Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage and the answers being debated by an expert panel of changemakers that included journalists Lisa Oxenham (beauty and style director at Marie Claire) and Madeleine Spencer (Beauty Full Lives podcast), industry trendsetters Luke Hersheson and Zoë Irwin, Not Another Salon’s Instagram star Harriet Stokes and international fashion consultant Adam Andrascik.

The results were fascinating, insightful and thoughtprovoking – and 100 per cent relevant to us all.

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TO READ debate highlights and find out about our Edinburgh event on 16 March, visit creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie

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The most incredible day at the @wella hairuk London Studios with the #wella passion istas

Twinni ng is winnin g with my salon (and IRL) sister @lisa–at–flint @flint–hair– #BTS on set with @creativehead mag – look out for the April cover shoot!

Feeling fruity with the perfect apricot shade, created for my wonde rful client Adele

In the

frame

One of my many Warho linspired moodboards for the #Colou rInflue nceProj ect

Wella Passionista and senior colourist at Flint Hair, Katie Ottolangui (@katieotto______) snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

#ThrowBack to the Colour Inspiration trip in NY C. Friends has got nothing on us!

Cutesy Parisia n Bob – haircut by me and the most beautif ul foiliage by @bcoloured 82

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It’s all in the details…

I LOVE a statem ent hair access ory!

Had the pleas ure of working with @tom badg erha ir and @tho masf rearh air toda y. Shooting with Well a and @zoe irwin hair for @creative head mag

Taking self-po rtrait #inspo from Andy Warho l for #Colou rInflue nceProj ect CREATIVE HEAD

18/02/2020 15:42

Rapida4000PRO Long life AC motor and slim barrel for expert results

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VELOCE3800PRO

Lightweight and powerful for professional results

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