Colour Forecast A/W16

Colour Forecast

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GUIDE TO A/W16 COLOUR 20/09/2016 11:31

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The best thing about Direct colours are their versatility and ease to apply.

You can use them directly on the hair (no developer required), mix them together to create your own bespoke look, or mix the colours with a RUSK conditioner to create softer pastel tones.

Katie Mulcahy, Rusk UK Colour Ambassador – Most Wanted Colour Expert 2015

A bold palette of vibrant shades. Get creative with these incredible intermixable colours.

• Apply directly from tube, no developer required • Use with Deepshine Hydrate Conditioner to create pastel shades • Lasts up to 20 shampoos • Ammonia-free ®

Keep your hair colour looking beautiful with this perfect post-salon care collection.

• Specially formulated for lasting colour • 3 prescriptive ranges – Hydrate, Repair and Smooth • Available in backwash and retail sizes • Mix the conditioners with Deepshine Direct Colour to create pastel shades

Available exclusively at

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For further information visit www.salon-services.com

20/09/2016 10:51

Ong Oaj Param

Libertine

Johnathan Simkhai

J JS Lee

Paul Costelloe

CONTENTS 06 COLOUR COUTURE The shades straight from the A/W16 catwalk

TREND ALERT

The latest trends to hit your salon: New nineties, Red redux, #Nofilter and Chalk it up

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COLOUR KIT

Show your clients some love with the hottest products

20 INTERNATIONAL OPERATOR Most Wanted Colour Expert Russell Eaton is in demand in the salon and across the globe

22 COLOUR AND THE MODERN GIRL Christel Lundqvist goes back to her roots to create the perfect enivronment for the modern colour client

26 ROCK YOUR CLIENTS’ WORLD These little extras will see your colour bills skyrocket

30 BLUE IS THE WARMEST COLOUR Rae Palmer explores the depths of the colour blue

34 IN THE ZONE Get your brushes and bowls at the ready for the

Alexander Wang

best courses around this season

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ON THE COVER Hair Christel Lundqvist and the Stil Creative Team.

Photography Alex Barron-Hough.

Supplement editor Beth Davie Art director Nick Jabbal Chief sub editor Adam Wood Contributor Anna Samson Advertising Laura Tucker Editor in chief Amanda Nottage Publisher Catherine Handcock Colour Forecast is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press.

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken, TIGI and Toni&Guy

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Colour Images courtesy of Redken

THE SHADES STRAIGHT FROM THE A/W16 CATWALK

ALEXANDER WANG WHERE St Bartholomew’s Church, New York.

THE LOOK Individuality was key to this collection and models had everything from coloured fringes to natural curls and bedheads to accompany their rebellious uniforms.

THE STYLIST Guido for Redken.

THE COLOUR Certain models had their hair coloured bright orange or bleached to emphasise the depth of the cuts. For the orange shade, the hair underneath was more subtle, while the hue on top was a bright, flame hue.

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Images courtesy of Balmain Paris Hair Couture

couture

BALMAIN WHERE Hôtel Potocki, Paris.

THE LOOK Centre partings gave way to tousled waves for a classically understated look that was all about Parisian chic.

THE STYLIST Sam McKnight for Balmain Paris Hair Couture.

THE COLOUR The biggest supermodels in the world were given each other’s hairstyles through the use of Balmain Paris Hair Couture wigs – Gigi Hadid and Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley went brunette, while Kendall Jenner and Karlie Kloss turned to blonde.

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Johnathan Simkhai

Fyodor Golan

TIGI

E SP R E SS O

PPQ

Mary Katrantzou

Paul Costelloe

M IL K

L’Oréal Professionnel

The ’90s called, they want their brunettes back! More glam than goth, this brunette is all grown up.

H A IR

Trend #1 NEW NINETIES

C H Huishan Zhang O C O LA TE

David Koma

C O LO U R

IS …

Jenny Packham

Trend alert

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Mary Katrantzou

Talbot Runhof

Kaelen

M A K E -U P. ..

Brown lipstick was a must before leaving the house in the ’90s and it’s back with a bang this season.

They’re perfect shades for hair, too! Think matte mocha and spicy cinnamon…

TH E

Ong Oaj Pairam

John Smedley

C LO TH E S… TH E 08

Victoria Beckham

“Brunettes will be wearing their colour in block shades this season – no highlights, no lowlights, just one all-over shade, as seen at Balmain and Alexander Wang where models sported block brunette colour in shades several darker than their natural tone,” says Edoardo Paludo, Davines international colour creative ambassador. For Karine Jackson at Karine Jackson Hair and Beauty, this is her favourite colour trend of the season.

“It’s glamorous, wearable and taps into both the ’90s vibe and the luxe dark shades seen at Christian Dior and Dolce & Gabbana,” she says. “We’re working with this trend using our swirl technique, combining rich browns and reds to create dark cherry and blackberry blues.” “This trend reminds me so much of the ’90s, but this is a far prettier take,” agrees Katie Mulcahy, Rusk ambassador. “You can achieve these looks by placing intensely rich tones over brunette bases.”

Alexander McQueen

Daks

B LA C K B E R R Y

Caitlin Price at Fashion East

IN THE SALON

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Charles Youssef

Danielle Romeril

Jason Wu

Christian Siriano

Fyodor Golan Robert Eaton, Most Wanted Colour Expert 2016 John Smedley

Mary Katrantzou

Barbara Casasola ColourForecast

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Delpozo Osman

John Smedley

Xiao Li

Topshop

Christian Siriano

TH E

Libertine

Rejina Pyo

C O PP E R

Katie Mulcahy for Rusk

“Reds are back,” enthuses Tai Walker, colour director at Mahogany. “See them in their purest form with global applications of cool raspberry to make a statement.” James Taylor, colour director at Barrie Stephen, has an interesting twist on the shade: “Adding a drop of violet slightly dilutes the vivid tones for those who prefer a more subtle effect,” he says. For Christel Lunqvist, Stil salon owner and TIGI global technical creative director, scarlet red and sepia are two palettes that will be very popular for A/W16. While adopting red tones can be daunting for brunettes and blondes, Sian Quinn, Headmasters artistic ambassador, says now is the time to embrace these colours. For Clayde Baumann, international technical creative director, at D&J Ambrose, red is his personal favourite. “For a natural effect, I’m diffusing my reds with soft ombre and balayage techniques before finishing with a glaze such as Perfecton from Wella Professionals.”

C LO TH E S…

R O SE

G O LD

IN THE SALON

Mary Katrantzou

Johnathan Simkhai

R A SP B E R R Y

C O LO U R

IS …

Are you ready for reds this season? You better be as shades from racy rubies to rich russets return to take their rightful place as the hottest hues around.

H A IR

Eudon Choi

Trend #2 RED REDUX

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Wella Professionals

Trend #3 #NOFILTER

Charles Youssef Fyodor Golan

H A IR

Eudon Choi

C O LO U R

IS …

Judy Wu

Imperfection is the new lusted-after style and natural, couldn’t-care-less colour is the key. Who wants to be perfect anyway?

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JW Anderson

Topshop

C LO TH E S…

Johnathan Simkhai

Ong Oaj Pairam

Roland Mouret

Topshop

N AT U R A L

Creatures of Comfort

Paul Smith Teatum Jones

U N D E R ST AT E D Vivienne Westwood

TH E

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Rejina Pyo

Christopher Raeburn

Temperley London

“Steer clear of the pastel tints and return ombre locks to their original shade,” says Hayley Gibson-Forbes at S J Forbes.

“Last season was one of contrast; natural colours were paraded next to bright pastel hues, whereas this season, natural tones will prevail. Look to Burberry, Joseph and Christopher Kane for inspiration.”

Tasha Stevens of Jamie Stevens suggests the strobing technique for this trend, as “it keeps hair looking untouched by highlighting sporadic pieces of hair to add a focal point and texture”. Rae Palmer at WeLove Salons, says: “I love the subdued mid-blonde and brown shade. In salon, we’re just turning up the volume slightly by adding warm and dark foils.”

“If the thought of going totally natural worries your client, add a touch of toner or a temporary all-over tint as this can add depth and gloss to naturally mousey hair,” says Jenny Pelter, technical director of the Westrow Artistic Team.

M O U SE Y

IN THE SALON

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Christian Siriano

Blue Tit

PL AT IN U M

Erdem

Mary Benson

C H A LK Y

H A IR John Smedley

IN THE SALON

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G LA SS Y

Barbara Casasola

Libertine

Xiao Li

Johnathan Simkhai

ColourForecast

Barbara Casasola

TH E

C LO TH E S…

JW Anderson

Kristian Aadnevik

Johnathan Simkhai

Jeremy Scott

“This trend is going to be massive,” says Francesco Fontana, Toni&Guy international technical artistic director. “In salons, we have seen a boom in clients requesting silver hair, especially after seeing stars such as Jennifer Lawrence hitting the red carpet sporting the shade.” TIGI and Stil’s Christel Lunqvist is taking her inspiration for this trend from Scandinavia.

“The Scandi palette is cleaner and brighter. Shell white is a popular tone in the salon for A/W16 and we use all-over Scandi blonde techniques for this look,” she says. James Taylor, colour director at Barrie Stephen, believes that platinum blonde is going nowhere fast, but we will see blonde hair becoming more multi-dimensional. He says: “Soft mixtures will keep blonde hair looking expensive, healthy, nourished and vibrant through the dull winter months. For this, I’d suggest prelightening your client’s hair until it develops to a very pale yellow.”

Sophia Webster

Images courtesy of Aveda, BaByliss PRO, Bumble and bumble, Davines, ghd, KMS California, La Biosthétique, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Redken, Sebastian Professional, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

The chalk and blackboard might be no more, but that memory of white dust falling to the floor is what we’re taking our colour cues from this season.

Joseph

IS …

Alexander Lewis

J JS Lee

C O LO U R

Trend #4 CHALK IT UP

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DARK IS THE NIGHT

COCOA BROWNS MEET TOASTY HAZELS AND RICH RUSSETS – WARM CLIENTS UP WITH TIGI COPYRIGHT©OLOUR’S ©USTOM COLLECTION BRUNETTES 12

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EVERYONE HAS TURNED to the dark side this season with make-up, clothes and hair embracing trends seen all over the catwalks.

Definitely more glam than goth, this colour trend favours a brunette palette that can be personalised and adapted for every client.

To help you make your client’s dark dreams a reality, TIGI copyright©olour’s ©ustom Collection Brunettes feature seven new brunette shades and exclusive, on-trend techniques.

“The ©ustom Collection Brunettes link perfectly to our trend forecast for A/W16 with a modern vision of rich, dense tones and mysterious depths,” says Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director. “We want to inspire colourists to translate these new trends into their salon work, pushing their own technical and artistic ability through the power of customised colour to create exciting and flattering shades for every client.”

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ADVERTORIAL

THE ©USTOM COLLECTION BRUNETTES FEATURES THE FOLLOWING TECHNIQUES: • Contouring: creates a soft focal point and personalised effect.

• Glazing: for a rich, classic finish.

• Natural Illumination: creates on-trend effects, transitioning from darker roots to lighter ends.

• Colour Pop: a striking effect created with bold focal points against darker tones.

The new techniques are designed to empower the colourist to personalise their clients’ colour, supported by TIGI’s bespoke consultation model, Creative Consultation.

“As with every colour collection we launch, the techniques developed for the ©ustom Collection Brunettes will be shared through TIGI Colour Education,” says Warren Boodaghians, TIGI European technical creative director. “The successful Colour Consultation programme gives colourists the tools and know-how to create customised colouring services, utilising a brunette palette with tailormade colour formulas, as well as personalised techniques and colour placement.”

Help your client embrace their darker side with ©ustom Collection Brunettes by TIGI copyright©olour.

For more information, call 0844 844 0944 or visit uk.tigiprofessional.com/colour ColourForecast

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NEVER STOP WANT TO KNOW HOW TO SEAMLESSLY MERGE CUT AND COLOUR? OR MAYBE YOU WANT EDUCATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS AND INSPIRATION 24/7? TIGI HAS WHAT YOU NEED

PROGRESSIVE COLOUR IN THE ever-evolving world of colour, colourists need to keep up with the latest techniques. TIGI is always updating its educational offering and the latest trend the brand has found is an ever-growing synergy between cut and colour. This is why TIGI has developed its colour education to include a course that seeks to achieve a perfect balance between cut and colour.

The TIGI Creative Colour Course runs alongside the TIGI Creative Cutting Course and demonstrates the latest techniques created by the TIGI Technical Creative Team. Designed for experienced, cuttingedge colourists, this two-day advanced course is progressive and highly creative, packed with new research.

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“The support we give TIGI copyright©olour salons is very important to TIGI. We have a wide range of ongoing training at all levels, designed to keep colourists up-todate with new techniques, as well as the latest trends. We are always updating the information we share so students always have new ideas and inspiration they can immediately utilise with their clients” WARREN BOODAGHIANS, TIGI EUROPEAN TECHNICAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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ADVERTORIAL

LEARNING EDUCATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

TIGI 24/7 APP FEATURES:

While hairdressers still want a hands-on experience, they also want immediate information, with daily updates to constantly move their work forwards.

It is with the future of education in mind that TIGI launched its TIGI 24/7 App earlier this year.

To enhance the brand’s Academy experience, providing an interactive platform for professional hairdressers seeking inspiration and ongoing education. Created in collaboration with Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director, and the TIGI International Creative Team, the App is packed with inspirational ideas, techniques and product information.

• Tutorials and cut and colour step by steps.

“The TIGI App is the most crucial reference tool for inspiring our team with on-trend skills, managing training, technical guides and product knowledge, all via their own mobiles. We love it – nice one TIGI!” TONY MIDDLETON, ALTRO MONDO

• An interactive drawing tool, allowing students to select specific head-sheets to create sectioning patterns and applications, as well as the facility to design haircuts.

• Get TIGI Academy latest information and book a course.

• Colour inspiration section with swatches and formulas.

To access this wealth of information and inspiration, just download the app from the App store, register and create a personal log-in and voila: education at your fingertips. Such is the success of the app that this autumn, the TIGI 24/7 App is being made available to Android users.

Happy learning!

Never stop learning with the TIGI 24/7 App. Download TIGI 24/7 from the App Store and Google Play Store.

For more information, email: uk.education@tigi.com ColourForecast

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T I K R U O COL

WITH E V O L SOME HE MARKET S T N R CLIE UCTS ON T U O Y SHOW TEST PROD OT THE H

Hi-tech colour With Soya Color Protect and Oxidation Technology, Cromatone Colouring Cream by montibello provides luminous, long-lasting, permanent colour and excellent grey coverage.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01264 334466 montibello.com

Be bold Create over-the-top and vibrant shades with Joico’s Confetti Collection – Mint, Sky, Lilac, Rose and Peach – part of its Color Intensity range.

RRP £2.29 EACH 0845 071 2326 joico-colorintensity.com

Shine bright Milk_shake’s Silver Shine Shampoo and Whipped Cream are delicious treats for blonde hair, combining the benefits of milk proteins, vitamin-rich blueberries and violet pigment to neutralise unwanted yellow tones.

RRP FROM £13.29 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk

NO FEAR Take the fear out of hair colour removal with Re-Kolour by PeRA|357. The in-salon service removes up to 99 per cent of colour dye without damaging the hair.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0330 088 5650 pera357.com

High iQ Add Smartbond from L’Oréal Professionnel to colour to protect the bonds within hair and strengthen them.

IN-SALON SERVICE, CONDITIONER RRP £16.49 0845 6000 122

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

No compromise ASP Vitaplex Biomimetic Hair Treatment allows you to lighten and colour without compromising hair’s quality. The damage protection system uses biomimetic technology to rebuild damaged hair, while protecting it from harm during the colouring process.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111 affinage.com/UK/PRO

On a journey Whisk your clients away with Bed Head by TIGI’s first ever colour range, Colour Trip. Or for those clients looking to warm up this winter, the seven new brunette shades in TIGI copyright©olour’s ©ustom Collection Brunettes will do the trick.

IN-SALON SERVICES 0844 844 0944

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ADVERTORIAL BEFORE

CHANGE

IT UP INCREASE LOYALTY AND ATTRACT NEW COLOUR CLIENTS WITH HAIR COLOUR REMOVER RE-KOLOUR BY NEW BRITISH BRAND PERA | 357 AS CLIENTS become increasingly adventurous with their colour, they need a product that removes colour safely and easily.

Re-Kolour by Pera|357 is the answer.

Straight from the labs of Leeds University and with the backing of some of the best in the industry, Pera|357’s new in-salon service removes up to 99 per cent of colour dye without damaging the hair.

Yes, you read that right. There’s no bleaching, no stripping, no oxidative damage and no orange hues left in the hair.

With the fears of hair colour removal taken out of the equation, clients will be able to change their hair colour as often as they like – meaning they’ll come back to you more often to try out the latest colour trends.

Re-Kolour can also open up whole new colour possibilities: clients that had previously been wary of colouring their hair because of the damage removing it could cause, can be safe in the knowledge that any colour they do try can be removed without the use of harsh chemicals.

Your clients can have glorious, natural colour in the blink of an eye – that is until they decide to change it again.

To find out more, call 0330 088 5650, email info@perachem.com or visit pera357.com ColourForecast

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Bonding time Now stylists can protect hair’s bonds, balance pH and preserve fibre integrity during a hair colour service with pH-Bonder

by Redken.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 085 4956 redken.co.uk

Three is your amigo Get clients to keep up your good work with no.3 Hair Perfector from Olaplex – it helps hair get stronger between services.

Unbreakable Familiarise yourself with the new bonding craze with an intro kit. The Osmo Chromaplex Intro Kit contains the Chromaplex Bond Builder and Bond Sealer, a two-step anti-breakage system that helps strengthen the hair during chemical processes.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0330 123 1907 osmouk.com

RRP £30 SARAH@STARQUALITIES.COM olaplex.co.uk

Winning formula Revlon Professional’s Cromatics range boasts a new formula that delivers super-bright, intense shades in one simple step.

IN-SALON SERVICE 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.com

PRO PLUS

Bondpro+ from Goldwell strengthens and protects hair during colouring, reducing breakage and boosting resistance.

IN-SALON SERVICE 020 3540 1200 goldwell.com

Crazy in Need for speed Balayage Film And Speedwrap 300 Dispensing System by Procare is perfect for freehand techniques as it can be folded, wrapped, used to separate or create blocks, and will not tangle, scrunch or cling.

SALON PRICE £20 0117 965 0616 hairfoil.com

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love

Your clients will adore Crazy Colour’s The Romantics – three semi-permanent colour creams in Peachy Coral, Graphite and Peppermint.

RRP £10.75 FOR A THREE PACK 0330 123 1907

COLOUR GOES ON AND ON All colour clients want supershine and a colour that lasts and Davines’ Mask with Vibrachrom does just that.

IN-SALON SERVICE 020 3301 5449 davines.com

crazycolor.co.uk

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KINDER | SAFER | FLEXIBLE

RE–KOLOUR is a patented, scientific formula which allows removal of artificial hair colour, WITHOUT AFFECTING THE NATURAL PIGMENT, OR COMPROMISING THE CONDITION OF THE HAIR. To find out more visit pera357.com

BEFORE

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AFTER

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International

operator The 2016 Most Wanted Colour Expert is in demand at home, at fashion week and at education seminars across the globe

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Robert Eaton PPQ

HE’S PART OF A famous hairdressing family, but Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton and Most Wanted Colour Expert 2016, is a star in his own right. “I guess you could say hairdressing is in my DNA,” says Robert Eaton, son of legendary Yorkshire salon owner Russell Eaton and creative director at the salon group. “I’ve always been surrounded by a family of hairdressers and colour work is my absolute passion. I have been developing my colour skills for the past 18 years and in that time I’ve managed to notch up a few awards.” By a few, he means not only a Most Wanted prize but two L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Trophy wins and many, many more.

“Being finalised for Most Wanted was amazing, especially alongside such talented people, but to win has surpassed all of my expectations. Now I have a wonderful platform to show my colour techniques, and I hope winning Colour Expert is a stepping stone in my career that shows just how much passion I have for my work.”

So, what is life like as one of the most in-demand colourists? “I lead the creative direction of our salons and run a column and trichology clinic in our flagship Leeds salon,” he explains. “However, there really is no regular week, and when I’m not in the salon I will most likely be in a Wella Professionals apron somewhere on a project.”

Through this role, Robert gets involved in shows and seminars all over the world, showcasing his colour work as a regular guest

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artist. “I am so fortunate to have worked with some of the best colour brands in the industry including Aveda, Wella Professionals and L’Oréal Professionnel.

“I’ve gained master colour awards with each and more recently have become a member of the Wella Professionals Colour Club – I’m one of only eight members.”

Colour is often overlooked in favour of style when it comes to the catwalk, but Robert is passionate about showing his shades on the runway. He was asked to bring colour to the catwalk at London Fashion Week for the PPQ S/S16 show, which was sponsored by Wella Professionals.

There were two elements to this project – first, to colour the models for the PPQ runway show, and second to create a collection of step-by-step tutorials and YouTube videos to accompany the launch. “The hair colour needed to reflect PPQ’s daring aesthetic and be completely on-trend,” recalls Robert. “The clothes encompassed flowing fabrics, patterns and solid colours, so the hair had to work alongside this. I created three looks – a soft rose-blush blonde; a cool, crisp brunette; and finally a deep noir. Since then, the videos and step-by-steps have been used globally.”

And the skills that Robert has honed backstage have enabled him to improve his work in the salon. “It’s not just major shows that I’m passionate about – I love being in the salon transforming a client,” he says.

We can’t wait to see what he does next inside and outside of the salon!

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COLOUR AND THE MODERN GIRL

To appeal to today’s colour client, Christel Lundqvist has returned to her Scandanavian roots at her new salon, Stil CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST IS A colourist who’s always done things a little differently. A consultation with her awardwinning technical prowess might see you being shown Elle Decoration for colour references rather than a fashion title.

Having stepped away from the salon in 2012 to take up the role of global creative technical director with TIGI, she’s been incredibly influential in developing the brand’s colour ranges and trend-led services. But the pull of the salon can sometimes be too strong. Now, alongside her TIGI role, she is the proud owner of Stil in London’s Notting Hill.

Stil (Swedish for style), has taken Christel back to her Scandinavian roots, inspired by the minimalist design and colour palette so prevalent in Swedish interiors. Her concept was to create a salon with a chic, boutique feeling – a modern yet relaxing place where clients could hang out during visits (she even got her dad involved in the design).

But, ultimately, this is also a colour salon – and illustrates Christel’s way of approaching the modern colour client.

“I wanted to create a space that felt different from traditional salons – I wanted it to be small, where clients can relax,” she explains. “When I spoke to designers about the concept, they wanted LED lights and everything in metal, and I wanted the total opposite – I didn’t want a factory!”

Her approach to her first salon and its concept is 100 per cent influenced by her colour background. “We work in a bespoke way; we make a conscious effort not to cram

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everything into a consultation. That’s why we designed the waiting area with a round table to sit at. It’s more like a lounge so clients can relax and read or work, or have a coffee while their colour processes.”

The aesthetic around the colour palette was vital too – in true Swedish style, everything is white. “Everyone thought I was crazy, being a colourist!” she laughs. “But I was dead set; it’s fundamental to Scandinavian design. Everything is white and you add structure and shapes through furniture.”

However, it isn’t just a pretty design concept – there is a practical element, too. “When you read colour, the best shade to have around you is white, because it reflects. It’s the reason why everything is white at an art gallery,” she says.

“All the guys that work at Stil have strict training and we make sure everything is spotless and tidy all the time.” And to hang on those white walls is a stunning first shoot. “It was important for us to create a brand identity through a shoot – this is Scandinavian luxe, very undone. That’s something we really wanted to showcase,” she explains. “The colour palette is minimal; simple but expressive. You have a pure Scandi blonde that’s bright and timeless and we have a ‘rewind’ that’s very ’60s but earthy and natural. Then we have one that’s actually named ‘Come As You Are’ because it’s so big in fashion right now, where people tuck their hair in or the texture is very natural and do-it-yourself.”

Christel’s love of fashion is felt throughout the design

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of Stil. “It’s important for us to look fashionable, to create something clients can relate to,” she says. “We also wanted to make an image where people would say ‘wow’.”

So just who is the modern colour client and how has their desire influenced what Stil offers? “They are so aware of colour – it’s always a two-way communication when we do a consultation. They’re so up-to-date on fashion right now, and we really wanted to tap into that,” she explains. “If you look at our menu, you’ll find the fundamentals: the glossing, the highlights; and then we have our fashion services, which will evolve and change over time: the contouring, the pastels.

We have a service called Lumiere Lights that’s a progression of balayage; it’s very freehand but more about creating a lighter colour around the face and avoiding dark roots. It’s important to tap into trend services that clients relate to.”

The consultations at Stil are very visual, with image references of celebrities, runway shots and even ad campaigns such as Prada or Mulberry. “We talk about complexion, skin tone, eye colour and the suitability factor, then we would look at a palette of suitable shades,” continues Christel. “We do that using Pantone references – we look at colours, the difference between cool and warm blondes, and then we would use imagery to show what the final result would look like.”

This all taps into work that Christel had been leading for TIGI about identifying fashion tribes and designing colour

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palettes and services to match each one. “Every person would like to look a certain way, and that is certainly a way of belonging to a tribe, whether that’s Haute Couture and fashion, or Eco and undone… and of course their lifestyles go with these tribes as well,” she adds.

A look around Stil will reveal one of the most striking areas is the colour bar. “I absolutely wanted a colour bar,” she grins. “I wanted it to be a nod to Scandi design, and it’s very rustic as we use reclaimed wood. Peter Farlow, the artist that helped us design the shop, has a phenomenal CV that includes work at the National Portrait Gallery and palaces in Brunei, and had great input in the bar’s design. The wood is old railway sleepers and it’s quickly become an area we use a lot – clients often sit here while we mix their colour and chat, and we also use the space for colour-testing services.”

So what’s on the horizon for the new salon? “Our next shoot will be focused more on colour and the trends for next season, now that we have a shoot that establishes our brand identity,” muses Christel. “It’s now about building the brand; we want Stil to be a real destination.”

“Eventually I’d love to open another salon, but I think I’ll need to wait a year or so before that,” she says. “It’s so perfect where we are right now, so I’m having some difficulty thinking of the right area… so why not abroad? We’re getting some great responses from fashion people in the US, so maybe over there – why not?” Why not, indeed!

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HAIR Christel Lundqvist and the Stil Creative Team: Craig Clarke, Shaun McIntosh, Alessandro Jottini, Joshua Mascolo.

PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Barron-Hough. STYLING Rhona Ezuma. MAKE-UP Asher Coleman.

All images courtesy of TIGI

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your client’s

world

Make clients feel adored with some additional treatments and you’ll soon see those colour bills go through the roof

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IT’S NO SECRET that colour treatments mean big business.

According to research by Wella Professionals, the average client spends £210 a year, whereas the average colour client spends £350 – that’s a significant increase. But you don’t have to stop there – by adding some carefully chosen additional services to your menu, you can increase client spending and ensure they look better for longer. So, what should you have on offer?

PREMIUM COLOUR

BONDING ADDITIVES

“Clients will happily pay a little more if they know that the condition will be noticeably different,” says Tracey Devine, Affinage global ambassador.

“ASP Vitaplex Biomimetic Hair Treatment works by essentially restoring hair to its natural state.

Financially, the figures speak for themselves – if you have five stylists applying this to five clients a week at £20 a service, the profit is £15,300 a year.”

For Julie Church, salon director at Gatsby & Miller in Amersham, increasing the salon’s colour business was a top priority and she did this by focusing on Olaplex. “Between 2014 and 2015, our colour sales went up by 30 per cent, and total salon revenue increased by 21 per cent – so the results of offering a colour additive are impressive,” enthuses Julie. This astonishing rise in colour sales was achieved by making sure the client was aware of their hair’s condition during the consultation.

Jenny Pelter, technical director of the Westrow Artistic Team, also points out that services such as Olaplex and Smartbond by L’Oréal Professionnel can lead to upselling of aftercare for colour clients.

“The final stage of these treatments involves a product that clients can take home, adding up to £50 to the price of the treatment,” she says.

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“Bespoke or couture colour services can grow a salon’s colour revenue by as much as 10 per cent,” says Lucy Hampson, assistant brand manager at Wella Professionals Colour. But are you worried about how to upgrade? Well, it’s all in the consultation and the addons. Each Couture Colour service includes an in-depth consultation, use of superior, premium products, such as Color.id by Wella Professionals and a luxurious salon experience. Lucy also suggests running promotions such as free gifts or backwash treatments with their colour service as a way of making your client feel like they’re getting their money’s worth. “Give the client an extra special in-salon experience – a free treatment, a free manicure at the backwash or a special drinks menu,” she suggests.

Premium colour can also mean offering different techniques, such as freehand rather than highlights.

Melissa North, colour specialist at George’s Hairdressing in Leicester, says: “Colourists can turn an ordinary set of highlights into freehand techniques, from babylights to balayage. This increases colour bills as most clients want to book their next appointment before they leave the salon to ensure this bespoke service can be recaptured.”

TONERS

“A significant amount of extra money can be made from hair toners by upselling them with the client’s hair colour treatment,” says Neil Barton, Goldwell UK guest artist and founder of Neil Barton Hair in Edinburgh.

“They’re an extremely important part of the colour process as they neutralise unwanted shades. For those clients who want to make the hair a bit more natural looking, a toner treatment can be a great option.” Neil advises a toner for clients who come in for highlights to give the hair a seamless transition from roots to ends and to help stop blondes looking yellow. “It is also beneficial as it seals the hair colour and adds shine to colour-treated hair,” he adds. Toners also help a client’s colour last longer, so find out if your client would prefer not to return to the salon too often.

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CONDITIONING TREATMENTS Conditioning treatments are vital to prolong the life of a client’s colour, but not many are willing to pay extra for it, so it’s your job to convince them the extra cost is worth it. “An added conditioning treatment at the backwash is not just there to repair and condition the hair, it’s there to enhance the colour and lock in key pigments to keep everything looking fresh and vibrant,” explains Chris Williams, international colour director at Rush. He adds that clients look to you to guide them – so you need to inform them of the facts. However, don’t bombard the client with information, discuss it with them in between your general chatting.

Andrew Collinge, creative director at Andrew Collinge salon group, suggests an opt out conditioning treatment for colour clients. “When they book a colour, the receptionist should explain they will be booked into a treatment as part of the service.

However, they are permitted to ‘opt out’ if they do not want to pay for it – but of course, most people choose to have it.” And it works – more than 60 per cent of Andrew’s colour clients have the treatment under this system.

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RETAIL

Opportunities to add to your client’s colour bill don’t stop at the end of their colour service – aftercare is just as important. “With shampoos and conditioners retailing together from £25 upwards, upselling colour shampoos and conditioners can add a huge profit to your retail sales,” says Westrow’s Jenny Pelter. Start by explaining to your client that after investing time and money into their dream hair, they need to maintain the condition and brilliance of their colour at home. “Ideally, clients should leave the salon with a personalised aftercare plan,” says Nana Gries, hair colourist at Neville Hair & Beauty.

Adding colour promotions that include retail at certain times of the year are always good incentives, advises Hilary Janin, head of retail for Headmasters. “We see about a 30 per cent increase in retail after a colour promotion, but most gratifying is the increase in client loyalty,” says Hilary.

Headmasters stocks a variety of brands for every hair type and budget, and can see a client’s colour bill increase between £30 to £60. “The key is not to focus on how much you can increase the bill by, but how much can you increase the experience,” adds Hilary.

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Rae Palmer’s latest collection journeys to the depths of the sea and reaches the highest mountain peaks, exploring varying degrees of blue and fusing accents of colour with parallel patterns and textures PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD MILES

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HAIR Rae Palmer for WeLove using Revlon Professional. STYLING Bernard Connolly. MAKE-UP Sarah Jagger.

IN THE ZONE

AFFINAGE

CREATIVE COLOUR & CUT

Everything from dip-dyes to pastels and two-tone, with Nic Davis and Charmaine Piché.

WHEN 14 November WHERE Romsey BOOK 01794 527111

AVEDA

MERGING COLOUR Shake up your client’s spirit of adventure with exciting hair colour options.

WHEN 26 October WHERE London BOOK 0370 428 6382

DAVINES

Image courtesy of Aveda

INTRO TO A NEW COLOUR A one-day course to discover ammonia-free colour.

WHEN 28 November WHERE London BOOK 020 3301 5449

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL FUDGE ESSENTIALS

Get to grips with the Fudge Professional colour portfolio,

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Headpaint and Paintbox.

WHEN 24 October WHERE Leeds BOOK 0113 270 0010

GOLDWELL

DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR MASTERY Learn about colouring solutions with Colorance.

WHEN 1, 29 November WHERE London BOOK 020 3540 1200

JOICO

LUMISHINE COLOUR An introduction to Joico’s Lumishine colour range.

WHEN 15 November WHERE Leeds BOOK 0113 270 0010

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL 20:20 COLOUR

Explore four key trend-led techniques with Trevor Sorbie’s Nathan Walker.

WHEN 10 October WHERE Leeds BOOK 0800 028 3448

MONTIBELLO

STEP-BY-STEP

The latest colour methods, for exciting, vibrant results.

WHEN 7 November WHERE Workington BOOK 07769 710877

REDKEN

COLOR TRENDS The latest trends, with Kelly Scott and Adam Browne.

WHEN 1 November WHERE London BOOK 0800 028 3448

REVLON PROFESSIONAL

360 PREMIUM EDUCATION This elite course consists of colouring and cutting.

WHEN 25 to 27 October WHERE Stockport BOOK 020 7391 7440

SASSOON ACADEMY

SALON CREATIVE COLOUR This five-day course covers sectioning application, colour choices and mixing.

WHEN 21 to 25 November

BOWLS AT THE READY? HERE’S OUR EDIT OF THE BEST COLOUR COURSES THIS SEASON WHERE London BOOK 020 7399 6902

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

GROW MY COLOUR BUSINESS Tips to help you build your revenue from colour.

WHEN 31 October WHERE Belfast BOOK 020 7724 7931

TIGI

CREATIVE CONSULTATION Learn to grow your business with creative thinking and fashion knowledge.

WHEN 24 and 25 October WHERE London BOOK 020 7228 5999

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COUTURE BLONDE

Satisfy those clients for whom blonde is a way of life!

WHEN 7/21 November WHERE London/Manchester BOOK 020 7637 7172/ 0161 834 2645

ColourForecast

21/09/2016 13:52

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