Creative HEAD September 2015

WANT YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR TO BE THIS VIBRANT FOR NINE WEEKS?

ANYTHING’S POSSIBLE WITH THE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR RANGE

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PAUL MITCHELL HAS UNLOCKED THE POWER OF SUPER SEED QUINOA TO BRING YOU PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR – VIBRANT COLOUR THAT LASTS FOR UP TO NINE WEEKS

WE ALL KNOW quinoa is good for us. Bloggers rave about its protein benefits and the gluten-free gang can’t get enough of it. But now Paul Mitchell has discovered a new use for this mighty seed; it’s the musthave ingredient for lasting colour care.

The Ultimate Color Repair system from Paul Mitchell fuses scientifically proven ingredients with the restorative and colour-locking power of quinoa, creating the exclusive Paul Mitchell Quinoa Color Repair Complex. This complex provides the ultimate defence against the top three causes of colour fade: frequent shampooing, thermal styling and UV exposure. Harnessing the strength of quinoa, the Paul Mitchell Ultimate Color Repair system locks in hair colour, restores lustre and reverses signs of damage.

THE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR SYSTEM WILL:

9 weeks* l Prevent thermal damage by 86 per cent** l Deliver 88 per cent less breakage** l Create 59 per cent more shine** l Provide vibrant colour for up to

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WHAT IS QUINOA?

Discovered by the Incas thousands of years ago, quinoa is an ancient grain that is a great source of protein and has a very high amino acid content, delivering powerful repair and protection for longer-lasting colour.

HOW IT WORKS

When hair is healthy, its cortex is compact and cuticle layers lay flat and reflect beautiful shine. To colour hair, cuticles are opened so dyes can penetrate the cortex, leaving both more susceptible to damage, promoting colour fading. Quinoa is a great source of protein – which repairs hair – and just like hair it’s also rich in amino acids. Paul Mitchell’s Quinoa Color Repair Complex delivers powerful repair and protection for lasting colour by penetrating the cortex and bonding to damaged sites, all while shielding the cuticle and adding shine and moisture.

*When using the system of shampoo and conditioner. Products were tested by an independent third-party laboratory. **When using the Ultimate Color Repair three-step system.

ONE SMALL SEED – ONE BIG BENEFIT

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STEP 1:

THE SHAMPOO

PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR SHAMPOO l The gentle, sulphate-free cleanser protects, replenishes and helps repair colour-treated hair. l Paul Mitchell’s Quinoa Color Repair Complex locks-in hair colour and repairs strands from within. l A blend of sugar cane and lemon peel extracts makes hair shiny, soft and manageable, while powerful antioxidants help prevent damage.

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THE CONDITIONER

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STEP 2:

PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR CONDITIONER l A daily hydrator and detangler for colour-treated hair. l Like the shampoo, Paul Mitchell’s Quinoa Colour Repair Complex locks-in hair colour and repairs strands from within. l Shea butter, jojoba and soybean oil leave hair soft, shiny and healthy. l Powerful antioxidants provide UV protection to help prevent colour fade and damage.

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STEP 3:

THE SPRAY

PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR TRIPLE RESCUE l This dual-phase spray protects against excessive heat that can damage colour-treated hair and lead to dull, faded strands. Its thermal protectors form a heat-resistant seal to shield hair from heat styling. l Paul Mitchell’s Quinoa Color Repair Complex replenishes lost reflection, so hair looks healthy, shiny and vibrant. l Leaves hair soft, smooth and manageable.

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DON’T JUST TAKE OUT WORD FOR IT! WE ASKED STYLISTS AND BEAUTY EXPERTS IF THE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOUR REPAIR SYSTEM DOES ALL IT CLAIMS TO

“THE MOST FREQUENT QUESTION WE HAVE FROM OUR CLIENTS IS: ‘HOW CAN I MAKE MY COLOUR LAST LONGER AND STAY VIBRANT?’ NOW I CAN OFFER PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR – THEY’RE HAPPY AND RETAIL HAS JUMPED” VICTORIA PANTING, OUTCAST SALON, NORTHAMPTON

“THIS RANGE LEAVES MY HAIR FEELING AND LOOKING GREAT, WHILE PROTECTING MY COLOUR” HAYLEY CARR, LONDON BEAUTY QUEEN BLOG

“I GOT TO USE THE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR SYSTEM FOR THE FIRST TIME RECENTLY AND MY HAIR LOVED IT. IT WAS SO SOFT, BOUNCY AND SHINY – NOT AT ALL LIKE THE TANGLY MESS MY FINE HAIR USUALLY IS AFTER I SHAMPOO” JANE ALDRIDGE, SEA OF SHOES BLOG

“I’VE NOTICED MY HAIR COLOUR HAS BEEN LOOKING MORE VIBRANT AND HAS LASTED LONGER. MY HAIR FEELS STRONGER AND I HAVE NOTICED A REDUCTION IN BREAKAGE. THIS SYSTEM DOES EXACTLY WHAT IT SAYS” PREETI CHOTAI, FABUBLUSH BLOG

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“WE’VE FOUND THAT MANY OF OUR CLIENTS AREN’T AWARE THAT HEAT STYLING CAN INCREASE COLOUR FADE, SO THE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR TRIPLE RESCUE HAS BEEN FLYING OFF THE SHELVES!” JOSH DENHOLM, REILLY DENHOLM CREATIVE HAIR DESIGNERS SALON, LEIGH

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WHO KNEW ONE SMALL SEED COULD BE SO BENEFICIAL? HOW CAN QUINOA HELP THE HAIR? LET US COUNT THE WAYS…

2.

1. CONTAINS ALL

NINE ESSENTIAL AMINO ACIDS, THE BUILDING BLOCKS OF PROTEIN, TO STRENGTHEN STRANDS

ASSISTS IN THE REPAIR, PROTECTION AND CONDITIONING OF HAIR TO IMPROVE OVERALL, REDUCING THE APPEARANCE OF DAMAGE

4.

BONDS TO NEGATIVELY CHARGED SITES OF DAMAGE TO DELIVER TARGETED BENEFITS

3.

STRENGTHENS THE CORTEX ALONG THE SURFACE TO EQUALISE POROSITY AND INCREASE ELASTICITY, WHILE PROTEINS HELP TO SEAL SPLIT ENDS

5. PROTECTS AND

NOURISHES HAIR FOLLICLES FROM THE INSIDE WITH PROTEIN EXTRACTS THAT CREATE A NATURAL COATING

7.

PROVIDES NOURISHMENT AND HYDRATION TO THE SCALP, SEALS IN MOISTURE AND SOOTHES IRRITATED AREAS TO HELP DETANGLE, IMPROVE SHINE AND SOFTEN HAIR

6. LOCKS IN COLOUR AND MINIMISES DAMAGE BY CREATING SCAFFOLDING EFFECT AROUND HAIR TO PROTECT IT FROM ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS

8. BALANCES THE

PRODUCTION OF NATURAL OIL TO KEEP THE STRANDS PROPERLY MOISTURISED; VITAMIN E REDUCES BREAKAGE DUE TO TANGLING

9.

ENCOURAGES REPIGMENTATION OF HAIR, WHILE AMINO ACIDS HELP TO MAINTAIN ITS ORIGINAL COLOUR

Give colour addicts the Paul Mitchell Ultimate Color Repair system.

For more information, call 0845 659 0011 or visit paul-mitchell.co.uk

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SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...

SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE

FREE £53

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CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 THE COMPLETE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR RANGE, FEATURING SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER AND TRIPLE RESCUE SPRAY, WORTH £53.40 TEN LUCKY SUBSCRIBERS WILL RECEIVE THE PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOR REPAIR RANGE, AS WELL AS THREE PAUL MITCHELL EXPRESS ION ROUND BRUSHES IN MEDIUM, LARGE AND EXTRA LARGE, WORTH £104.25.

*TO SUBSCRIBE

AND FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MAGAZINE OR CALL 01434 610935

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*For full terms and conditions, visit creativeheadmag.com. All product prices stated are RRP

YOU’LL ENJOY...

10/08/2015 10:23

L’Oréal Professionnel is proud to sponsor the

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So get a grip and hold on for the Joyride of your life!

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Editor’s letter

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JOIN US! READ ME UP, read me down – this bumper September issue of Creative HEAD is a double dose of inspiration for your delectation! Start at one end and you’ll see all your favourite Creative HEAD regulars, alongside a thrilling report on guerilla hair event NOISE in Shanghai and Tokyo and an in-depth round-up of the extensions market – a real business-boosting opportunity for ambitious salons. But because you can never have too much of a good thing, spin us around and peer into the future with our A/W15 trends report, guest edited by former British Vogue beauty editor, Jessica Diner. Neil Moodie shares the story from moodboard to catwalk at shows such as Daks and Belstaff, while young gun Syd Hayes has our heads spinning with his dizzying session/salon rinse-and-repeat lifestyle.

Visit the chicest shows, know the hottest trends, see the insider tips and techniques to bring the runway looks ready for you to style (and sell!) in the salon… the perfect blend of business and fashion, just for you!

Amanda Nottage Editor

Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year

amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine

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creativeheadmag.com Creative HEAD Magazine App

Busy, busy, busy! As this issue went to press, Team Special Projects was gearing up to its biggest night of the year – the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final on 7 September.

There are 90 awesome finalists and a guest list full of fabulous faces from hair and fashion, all set to converge at London’s monstrously magnificent Natural History Museum. Follow @creativeheadmag on Twitter for the action live, or see the full list of winners at creativeheadmag.com from midnight on 8 September.

Meanwhile, our #bighairdo – the biggest hair party to take place in salons, ever – happens on 24 September. Is yours one of 100 hair destinations in the UK throwing open its doors to a flurry of style-hungry consumers?

@creativeheadmag @creativeheadmag

13/08/2015 16:10

September

WHAT’S INSIDE 61

24

EXTENSIONS The products you need in your salon

ON THE COVER

INSIDE STORY

Ultimate Color Repair

by Paul Mitchell

Richard Phillipart unveils his salon’s makeover

40 SCENE

Head east to Shanghai with the Asian Hairdresser Festival

EDITOR

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

ADAM WOOD

ALISON ROWLEY

DEPUTY EDITOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

BETH DAVIE

ANNA SAMSON

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

ART DIRECTOR

ADVERTISING

NICK JABBAL

LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

GRAEME WHITE

creativeheadmag.com

16_Contents September.indd 1

DAVID HAMMOND

PUBLISHER

ART

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD Magazine

Kerasilk by Goldwell

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

JOANNA ANDERSEN

ON THE COVER

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk

@creativeheadmag

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

12/08/2015 16:36

THE ART OF COLOURING EXPOSÉ with Max Eli, International Director of Colour Education at J Beverly Hills J Beverly Hills offers a complete range of products for professional salons and its clients that are paraben and sulphate free, which include cleansing, caring, styling & finishing products, a special line for men and a revolutionary Colour Line featuring 88 intermixable shades. All products contain high quality ingredients infused with argan oil, black pearl powder, acai berry and aloe vera. Our Colour Line products provide an unmatched level of colour intensity, vibrancy and hair conditioning. This single line concept features demi, semi, and permanent colour options, therefore allowing translucent, opaque or matte all from one tube, with the world’s lowest ammonia level of less than 1%. This 5 step formulation guarantees predictable results with up to 100% grey coverage. Join us to learn more about this exciting Colour Line.

MONDAY 28 SEPTEMBER 2015

MACDONALD WINDSOR HOTEL

RECEPTION: 10am START: 10.30am ENDS: 4.30pm

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Serving & protecting the professional UK salon industry with innovative brands.

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

SALES IN LUXURY HAIRCARE SEE RECORD GROWTH SALES OF HIGH-END women’s haircare products in the UK increased by six per cent last year to £403m, from £380m the year before. Mintel’s research revealed that female consumers are more likely than ever before to ‘trade up’, with the proportion of all product launches at a prestige price point increasing to 29 per cent in 2014 from 18 per cent in 2013.

Vicky Panting, salon manager of Outcast in Northampton, has seen the trend reflected in her salon. She said: “We can definitely vouch that is the case. Last year we saw more than 20 per cent growth on clients purchasing higher end products such as Awapuhi Wild Ginger from Paul Mitchell, and 2015 looks to double that.”

James Hallahan, from Aitch & Aitch Hair Salon in southeast London, agreed: “As confidence in the economy has improved, women are happy to spend more on luxury hair products.” Aitch & Aitch has noticed premium colour protection products such as Unite Blonda and Keratin Complex Colour Fade have been selling particularly well.

The Mintel research also revealed that when it comes to purchasing premium products, four in 10 users of hair treatments or masks were typically using a prestige product, while hairspray was most likely to be a budget buy.

DON’T MISS IT!

If you can’t get a ticket you can still find out who the Most Wanted and It List winners are at creativeheadmag.com from midnight on 8 September!

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LA BIO REVEALS UK BEAUTY STYLIST AWARD WINNER

Alex Walker with La Biosthétique’s Paul Hetherington

The edit

JUGGLERS, FIRE BREATHERS, living statues… and then there was the hair. The La Biosthétique UK Beauty Stylist Awards 2015 brought a dazzling spectacle to Solihull.

Held at Hampton Manor Hotel, hair shows, illusionists and a drinks reception preceded the main event; revealing who would represent the UK at the international La Biosthétique Beauty Stylist Awards. Alex Walker of Kaboodles Hairdressing in Torquay was crowned champion to rapturous applause from the crowd. He will now go forward to represent the UK at the international competition held in Paris in October.

Judged by some of the nation’s top hairdressers (such as Andrew Barton and Angelo Seminara) as well as members of the press (including Creative HEAD), entrants had to impress with a cohesive photographic look, taking into account cut, colour, make-up and clothes styling.

ELECTRIC PARADE IT’S BECOME an annual tradition – whatever the weather, Mark Woolley and his Electric Hairdressing crew will celebrate their success with a dip in the sea! At Electric Summer RAE PALMER HAS partnered with Sessions 2015, the day started off Revlon Professional in a move to push at Brighton’s beach-side club her WeLove salon as a total care concept.

Coalition with Mark presenting The partnership will unveil the first stage a round-up of the company’s of Rae’s new salon concept later this year. achievements and its big She said: “I wanted my small empire to last ambitions pushing forward. not just through a recession but to grow The L’Oréal Professionnel team and prosper for the next generation. In presented Pro Fiber and the Revlon I’ve found a brand that doesn’t Electric Art Team, showcased hair just make products, it recognises inspired by The Haçienda, home of the need for beautiful hair.”

Manchester’s rave scene in the ’80s.

Rae Palmer selects Revlon

CREATIVE HEAD

13/08/2015 16:30

#CHedit NEW LEAP AHEAD TEAM IS REVEALED

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL has revealed the five new members of its LEAP Ahead team for 2015/16. They are, pictured from left: Chantal McAuliffe, Rainbow Room International; Gregor Brown, John Gillespie; Hannah Macklin, KJM; Raj Sethi, Barrie Stephen Hair; and Lauren Tudor, En Route. The training programme is now into its second year and is designed for stylists aged between 25 and 35 who are no longer eligible to enter into the Schwarzkopf Professional YAT team. The 2015/16 LEAP Ahead team will be led

by Jamie Farrar and YOU CAN also discover who the Catherine Adams. new Saks A Team members are at creativeheadmag.com!

THE NEW FACES OF REDKEN

SUKI WATERHOUSE AND AMBER LE BON (pictured above, respectively) are Redken’s new faces. The duo join a collective of Redken muses and trend creators including hairstylist Guido and colourist Tracey Cunningham. Both models are fashion industry favourites, with Suki also branching out in acting with several upcoming film roles. Shane Wolf, global general manager of Redken, said: “Suki is known for her chic style and effortless cool. She brings a great energy.” Amber has been a DJ for Victoria’s Secret, Gucci, the British Fashion Council Awards and Fashion Week events. The two will be featured in print and digital campaigns to consumers.

FORGET THE CRUNCHY GELS OF OLD, new generation gels are our latest BFFs! The new Kérastase Matérialiste Thickening Spray Gel promises it won’t weigh hair down, while making hair easy to style and with a super shine. Use it to give body to braids, oomph to a ponytail or some extra volume a blow-dry – well gel!

Headmasters finds summer thrills

HEADMASTERS HAS USED A PARTNERSHIP with Thorpe Park to help recruit young talent to hairdressing. Headmasters teamed up with the theme park to offer visitors festival ready-hair as part of the park’s Island Beats music event, and stylists from the salon group’s Middlesex salons were on hand to give thrillseekers a variety of looks, such as beach waves, perfect ponys and top knots.

It is estimated that 20,000 people visit Thorpe Park a day and Headmasters used the motivational exercise to also involve its NVQ3 team, which did the dry styling at the bar, as well as a recruitment drive. Raju Raymond, chief executive of Headmasters, said: “Our talented team of stylists, educators and recruiters were on hand to enlighten guests to the apprenticeship we offer and the vast job opportunities for hairdressers.”

CREATIVE HEAD

18-19_News (Sept).indd 2

MY month

AHEAD

What September has in store for...

KATIE MULCAHY

DALE HAIRDRESSING

It’s one of the most exciting months of the year, starting off with the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final where I am a finalist for Colour Expert. I’ll also be judging the FAME Team semi-finals and, as a previous member, I know how hard this will be. I also shot a collection earlier this year in my role as ambassador for Rusk so I am keen to see the images in print in Colour Forecast A/W15.

GRANT MULHOLLAND

PARTNERS HAIR & BEAUTY

”It’s time to plan the last quarter of 2015, which includes all our Christmas campaigns.

It’s been a great year for us so far and it’s all down to careful planning! We are also putting the finishing touches to our new colour menu, which is about to be rolled out in the salon. Our artistic team will also be working on putting together our Christmas looks.

COS SAKKAS TONI&GUY

It’s the end of the summer and the start of a working marathon.

The hot ticket, of course, is the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final. I was lucky enough to be a judge so I’m really looking forward to see the winners announced. Then London Fashion Week will be upon us. From hair tests and designer meetings to the shows themselves, LFW is always a busy time.

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#CHedit

Blow-drying just got a lot more luxurious with the launch of the BaByliss PRO Diamond Dryer – the ceramic technology is infused with precious stones for seriously smooth results.

Client changed their mind? Don’t worry, Affinage Eraser targets colour to remove unwanted tones while deeply conditioning hair.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111 affinage.com

COLOUR CLOSE-UP

RRP £60

0370 513 3191

babylisspro.co.uk

Give colour clients some plant power with new J Beverly Hills Colour. The fully mixable line contains blends of acai berry, argan oil and aloe vera to create shiny, healthy shades your clients will crave.

Want to know more?

Visit the website to book a place at the Art of Colouring Exposé.

Offer quick glossy hair while protecting against heat and UV rays, with the terrifically multitasking 7Seconds Glossing from Unite.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01753 444444

RRP £18.80 0845 034 0770

fbilondon.co.uk

unitehair.co.uk

Go for gloriously groomed with Osmo Pomade Hold for a modern shine and Fibre Sculpt for impressive hold.

RRP £8.45 EACH 0141 812 5000 osmo.uk.com

Don’t Blow It (H)air Styler from Bumble and bumble gives air-dried hair a relaxed, undone vibe while taming flyaways and adding a touch of polish.

RRP FROM £12

0870 851 2227

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Whoop! Bed Head by TIGI has unveiled the world’s first PP (Powder Primer) Balm, Joyride, to provide a texturised base for styling.

RRP £16.95

IN-SALON SERVICE 01296 611731

bedhead.com

biosthetique.co.uk

0844 844 0944

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Use the new paddle and brush from La Biosthétique to help clients dip their toe into the sweetie shades trend. They’ll love the subtle wash of candy colours.

With 25 benefits in one bottle, Redken’s new One United is the perfect multi-tasker, and it’s sulphate and paraben-free, too!

RRP £17.80 0800 085 4956 redken.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

12/08/2015 16:38

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

STOCK

OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS ONCE UPON A TIME keratin treatments were just for those with frizzy hair, but now there’s a treatment out there for everyone, as Goldwell proves with the launch of not one but five new services.

Kerasilk Control is perfect for those who struggle with wayward hair, while Kerasilk Reconstruct penetrates the hair shaft to fix damage from the inside out.

Point colour clients towards Kerasilk Colour to protect their perfect shade, and Kerasilk Repower Volume to help give fine hair a boost, or suggest Kerasilk Repower Anti-Hairloss to increase thickness. Guests can make their treatments continue to work hard once they leave the salon, as each treatment has a corresponding aftercare range.

Pick your client’s perfect partner!

IN SALON SERVICE 01323 432100 goldwell.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT... REPAIR Label.m’s Honey & Oat Mask contains two kinds of honey, a natural moisturiser, to give damaged hair a sweet treat. We can eat it too, right?

Revitalise hair that’s been pushed to the limits with the reconstructing power of chill* ed repair, infused with keratin to reconstruct the outer layers of hair.

RRP £15.75 01753 612090

RRP FROM £9.99 01535 658499

labelm.com

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DOWNLOAD THE APP TO WIN! We’ve got five sets of chill* ed repair range to give away, worth £31 a set – only on the Creative HEAD App! Visit creativeheadmag.com/ipad

CREATIVE HEAD

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They’re back! Choose from a fantastic line-up that includes Brunette Goddess, Dumb Blonde and Urban Antidotes.

The high performance Master Pro 3.1 hairdryer is professional, lightweight and has six heat settings.

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Fresh for Fall

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13/08/2015 16:13

#CHedit Desert ’dos Sink s, State side

Pastel perfect ion

A flush of blush

In the frame Alex Brownsell, co-owner of Bleach London, lets us into her world SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world?

Tweet us @creativeheadmag

Watermelon colour for Lily Allen

A day trip to Ma rgat e

Rosy toes The view from 35,000ft Why did you want to be a hairdresser?

I fell into it! When I was 12, the salon I visited was looking for a Saturday boy – I got the job and was hooked! It’s the only industry I will ever work in.

RISING STAR

What have been your highlights so far?

Teaching a session style

Post-K enzo shoot, in a Spanis h cave class with Paul Mitchell’s editorial director, Lucie Doughty, at Paul Mitchell The Gathering in Las Vegas! Winning the John Paul Mitchell Systems photo shoot competition in 2011 (the first person to win from the UK) and also winning the John Paul Mitchell Systems Rising Star Award in 2014,

styling a Creative HEAD shoot for Neuro tools and getting the cover image!

Oh, and owning my own salon at the age of 24.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years’ time?

I hope to own more salons under the Reilly Denholm umbrella, as well as continuing with

Engagement fever hits Bleach! my stage education and session styling work around the globe.

What would be your dream hairdressing gig?

I want to elevate my career to the same heights as my mentor, Lucie Doughty, so I’d like to art direct as well as create for big campaigns.

NAME: JOSH DENHOLM AGE: 25 SALON: REILLY DENHOLM CREATIVE HAIR DESIGNERS, LEIGH

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#CHedit

Inside story THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER, ELLESMERE PORT HOME TO The It List’s It Guy of 2014, Richard Phillipart, The Boutique has undergone a revamp in name and in space. The salon – now known as The Boutique Atelier – has grown from five styling stations to 10, each made from reclaimed timber. A fabulous talking point will surely be the 4m long custom-made light feature with 40 vintage bulbs! There’s exposed lighting and air conditioning fixtures, and a double-sized reception desk made of brick and reclaimed timber. One large vinyl wall through the salon illustrates the latest photographic collection from floor to ceiling, while a ‘barbering wall’ with two dedicated men’s sections is decorated with vintage images of Victorian men’s hairstyles. And for those in a bit of a rush, there’s a separate colour area for touch-up appointments, including all the tools for guests to blow-dry their own hair.

HOT BUYS

now open

STARK BEAUTY

You’ll get a stunning fusion of styles with the Boutique desk – the stark, clean structure of the white PVCcovered desk aligns beautifully with the elegance of the aluminium feet.

RRP special offer £926 (was £1,749) sarah.dade@salonambience.com salonambience.com

SEE MORE deals from Salon Ambience in your free brochure with this issue of Creative HEAD! 24

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MATTHEW CURTIS HAIR RETREAT AT HOAR CROSS HALL, STAFFORDSHIRE

Combining a complete concept with a fashion-led style menu, this new salon’s bespoke treatments extend spa R&R to hair.

CREATIVE HEAD

11/08/2015 15:18

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#CHedit

BIG IDEA

FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

Katie Eary tool bag CLIENTS LOVE A freebie when buying professional hair products, particularly limited edition designer accessories. And now, thanks to Fudge Professional, hair stylists can get a piece of the action too – this super-fun stylist tool bag designed by long time London Collections: Men partner, Katie Eary. Inspired by her S/S16 show, the limited edition bag is a monster – quite literally. Think tangerine fur, googly eyes, neon orange teeth… and open it up to reveal the beast’s intestines and tongue. Consider the conversations it’ll start when whipped out in front of a client, jam-packed with brushes, tools, grips and hero haircare products. Well, it’s only available as a gift with purchase for salons – speak to your Fudge Professional distributors to find out how you can get your hands on the new blow-dry spray TRI-BLO and this terrific tool bag. Grrr…

The limited edition Katie Eary designed tool bag is available now from Fudge Professional. For more, call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudge.com/professional WANT TO WIN a limited edition Katie Eary tool bag, packed with new TRI-BLO and Fudge Professional brushes? We have five to give away – visit creativeheadmag.com now!

CREATIVE HEAD

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13/08/2015 16:14

THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE

THE SALON

JULIAN DALRYMPLE THE SITTING ROOM, BALLYMENA

Stepping up to £9 per hour by 2020 will be hard work.

I’ve already been speaking to other local salons trying to get everyone to increase their prices at the same time so clients can see it’s because of wages.

This is definitely time for businesses to stand together. I’m lucky to have a good relationship with other local salon owners, and everyone’s first reaction has been how can we afford this? Some of my team are still growing their columns and can have some slack days, so will I have the money to increase their wages on the days they are quieter? Will I have the money to invest in staff members?

I want to pay good wages and offer them an exciting career, but the overall wage bill has to relate to salon turnover. If the wage bill increases without turnover increasing, then unfortunately I will be unable to employ as many staff and may have to make other cutbacks.

FROM NEXT APRIL, SALONS WILL NEED TO PAY EMPLOYEES OVER THE AGE OF 25 THE NEW NATIONAL LIVING WAGE. WHAT WILL BE THE POTENTIAL IMPACT ON SALON BUSINESSES?

WITH GREAT FANFARE, this summer saw the announcement of a National Living Wage (NLW) in the new government’s Budget. The wage – which starts at £7.20 an hour from April and will rise to £9 an hour by 2020 – will be for staff aged over 25.

The NHF is advising members not to assume the change will be negative, or to overlook other changes announced in the Budget that should benefit small salons. The new wage applies to those who are normally a salon’s more experienced stylists, who should be running busy columns and bringing in a good income for the salon regardless. Those who are rewarded for hitting their targets with bonuses or commission structures are already more likely to be earning above the National Minimum Wage (NMW), which will limit the impact of the introduction of the NLW. Salons should also note the increase to the Employment Allowance, which allows small employers to reduce the amount of National Insurance they pay for their employees. The allowance will rise by 50 per cent to £3,000 from 2016, a move designed to help small firms offset some of the increased cost of the NLW. However, salons where the owner is the sole employee will now not be able to claim the allowance at all. “This change to the Employment Allowance will mean a business employing four people full-time on the new NLW will not have to pay any National

Insurance contributions,” explained NHF president Paul Curry. In addition, corporation tax will drop from 20 per cent to 18 per cent by 2020, a change that will benefit the bottom line of many small businesses.

In principle, bosses support the idea of the NLW. “The moral argument for a living wage is simple,” says Mitchell Wilson from Most Wanted 2014 Best New Salon winner Laundry in Sheffield. “The reality is inevitably more complex. In any city or town you will find salons that hardly generate an hourly NLW per head, let alone pay it out.”

This introduction comes as the NMW rises for apprentices, too. Westrow director Marc Westerman, explains: “What many salon owners will be doing is looking in detail at their current wage costs, maybe restructuring the hours of work to minimise the impact of the new wage legislation.”

“It’s another pressure, along with pensions auto-enrolment, at a time when we are only just emerging from a downturn,” adds Darren Messias, managing director of KH Hair.”

Yet some have prepared themselves already: “We’ve already signed up with the Living Wage Foundation to become a Living Wage Employer,” explains Keith Mellen, managing director at Anne Veck. “The current minimum wage is not enough to live on. Why should taxpayers subsidise employers with tax credits and benefits just to keep wage bills down?”

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CREATIVE HEAD

11/08/2015 15:42

#BusinessEdit

LIFE LESSONS

’TIS THE SEASON… …TO START PLANNING! THINK AHEAD TO SECURE SEASONAL RETAIL SUCCESS, SAYS KEN WEST KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

AS OUR INDUSTRY becomes more competitive and marketing techniques more sophisticated, I am reminded of a piece of advice that a mentor of mine shared. The advice was simple. Whenever you get the opportunity to spend time with people more successful than you, do not miss it. Watch, listen and learn – because success leaves clues.

Sometimes we forget that we are in the retail sector. We may be selling intangibles – skills, advice, knowledge and creativity – but we are still selling. Successful sales and retail is a skill, and it’s one that can be learned. So, take a look around you and see which retailers you admire, especially those that are catering for the same market and the same customer demographic as you, and ask yourself ‘what systems and techniques have they mastered’?

One thing that we often see around us is discounted offers. But some of you will already know my feelings on discounting and the potential harm it could do to your profits without a clearly defined strategy. However, study your favourite retailers and you will see that they regularly use seasonal promotions.

At different times of the year, consumers’

needs are different. Spring, summer, autumn and winter all provide opportunities for enticing guests into your salon for seasonal services while boosting your retail sales.

In the spring the world is coming out of hibernation and the time is right for reinvention and new colours. The summer is holiday time with opportunities for lighter colours and advice on how to protect hair from sun and sea damage. Clients love and value tips and tricks for simple styling techniques when away from home, too. Autumn brings another opportunity for a change of colour while winter is a goldmine, with Christmas gift opportunities and seasonal styling.

I have talked before about invitationonly events in your salon, and the changing seasons slap you in the face with opportunity!

But why limit yourselves to the seasons? Why not use local and national events to give your clients extra USPs before your competition beats you to it? Who gave strawberries and cream to their guests during Wimbledon fortnight? Who provided mudpacks during Glastonbury? Not you? Well, if you didn’t, then I bet someone else did!

WANT TO ASK KEN A QUESTION? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com

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JO HANSFORD

JO HANSFORD SALON Have self-belief. I would never have started a colour business if I didn’t believe in my capabilities and in the opportunities out there. I saw a niche and knew I could make a success of it, even when others were negative.

Learn to see the grey area. I have always been a very black or white person, but over time and from running my own business I have had to see the middle ground, especially with staff.

There are always two sides to everything.

Be grounded. My staff knows there is no hierarchy. There is strong management, but I would never ask someone to do something I wouldn’t do.

Do what you do and do it well! We have been through three recessions and every time it’s horrible, but we have never suffered as badly as we think we will.

People will always spend money if they feel they are getting good value.

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#BusinessEdit BUSINESS

barometer

A SHADY STRATEGY

IT’S TOUGH OUT there for salons – no sooner has a colour trend evolved to help push clients through your doors (Ombre! Pastels! Bronde!) then there’s a DIY box on the supermarket shelf at a fraction of the cost. So we asked our reader panel what was putting bums on their technicians’ seats.

While hairdressers love to be inspired by the catwalk, the majority of salons admitted that clients brought pictures of celebrities with them when looking for a new colour. “Hairdressers want to be part of catwalk trends but most clients are mortified when they see the looks,” argues Anne Pileggi, owner of Hairworks in Swindon. “Yet we have a mad rush when Kim Kardashian changes her hair.”

A handful of our panel admitted the pastel trend has brought in younger clients for colour. “The 18 to 25 year olds spend more on one appointment with a big colour change, but are less regular,” says Becky Watret of Bliss Hair in Nottingham. Salons see the biggest profits from the 36-50 demographic, understandably when those first greys are often appearing, yet some are noticing clients take a different approach. “A small percentage cover grey,” says Beverley Bates of The Retreat@Ekko Equestrian in Rugby, “although most of my clientele have colour to enhance the shape and make a statement. More of my clients are embracing grey and bringing it into a whole design statement.”

65%

THE HIGHEST PERCENTAGE OF COLOUR AS TOTAL BUSINESS FOR A SALON

82%

36-50

BELIEVE CELEBRITY HAS A GREATER INFLUENCE ON COLOUR CLIENTS THAN THE CATWALK

THE MOST PROFITABLE AGE GROUP FOR COLOUR

WEEN COLOUR 6.8 WEEKS IS THE AVERAGE TIME BET H THE LOWEST REPORTING AN APPOINTMENTS FOR CLIENTS, WIT T AN AVERAGE OF 12 WEEKS AVERAGE 4 WEEKS AND THE HIGHES

JUNE 2015

How was business in June 2015 compared with May 2015?

6% STEADY

18%

DECLINING

STEADY

18% GROWING

76%

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How was business in June 2015 compared with June 2014?

GROWING

82%

Top tips COLOUR BY NUMBERS

Colour appointments are some of the most expensive services on a salon’s price list, so it is obvious that the more colour clients you have, the more revenue you can earn.

By following these few tips below you too can increase your colour revenue.

•Show off your team’s skills and the latest trends by holding a colour open day. Ignite interest among clients by offering an introductory discount on that day.

•Make sure every client is patch tested ‘just in case’ they want colour in the future. For colour-phobic clients recommend a glossing treatment – it’s a great introduction to the idea of colour application.

•Make full use of your salon software by finding clients that have not previously had a colour service with you. Set up an email or SMS marketing campaign to entice them into trying the latest trends.

•Colour clients will be some of your most loyal, so ensuring they rebook after each appointment is essential. While their colour is developing, book their next appointment from the comfort of their chair, all through your salon system’s mobile application.

•Remember that as well as through colour appointments, revenue can be increased by clients purchasing professional products to maintain their coloured hair at home.

•Utilise your salon software to track what percentage of each stylist’s clients have a colour service. Use this information to target them and increase this percentage by running a competition between staff. Offer an attractive prize for whichever stylist increases their colour percentage by the greatest margin.

Gregory Saunders, salon and spa consultant at Premier Software

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE

CREATIVE HEAD

10/08/2015 10:26

#BusinessEdit

PUBLIC HEALTH CALL

INDUSTRY IN HMRC SPOTLIGHT

THE GOVERNMENT HAS UNVEILED a major campaign targeting barbers, hairdressers and beauty salons that are failing to pay the National Minimum Wage.

The campaign has seen HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC) begin actively investigating salons to check whether they are paying staff their correct wage.

It has come as the industry is braced for minimum wage rates also to rise sharply from next month and the introduction from April next year of a new higher National Living Wage for employees aged 25 or over.

Normally when HMRC identifies that an employer has been paying staff the wrong wage it can lead to the business being publicly ‘named and shamed’ and fined up to £20,000.

But as part of the campaign salons that come forward and work with HMRC are being offered an amnesty or breathing space to put things right without being penalised – but only if they voluntarily come forward. HMRC is also encouraging employees to speak to salon owners if they think they are on the wrong wage. To help salon owners, the NHF has created a guide specifically on the minimum wage. This includes details of current and future rates, common ‘problem’ scenarios, mistakes employers often make and how to put them right.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall warned: “Now’s the time to get our industry’s pay in order. Once the campaign has ended, HMRC will be throwing the book at salon owners who continue to break the law. Ignorance will not be an excuse.”

Jennie Granger, director general of enforcement and compliance at HMRC, said: “This innovative campaign is about helping employees who have been underpaid get the money they are legally due into their pockets.”

The campaign was sparked by a government report last year suggesting hairdressing was the worst of any UK industry at paying the correct wages.

Just the ticket for high street salons

IT’S WHAT MANY salon owners have long suspected, but scrapping pay-and-display parking may be the secret to revitalising Britain’s high streets, at least if the experience of one Welsh town is anything to go by. Shopkeepers in the coastal town of Cardigan, north Wales, reportedly have seen a 50 per cent increase in business since parking meters were vandalised, leaving the council with no option but to allow free parking.

NHF president Paul Curry said: “This report is certainly eye-opening and just shows how removing rigid parking restrictions in town centres could provide greater opportunities for smaller businesses.”

THE ROYAL SOCIETY FOR PUBLIC HEALTH has said hairdressers could help to champion and promote health messages, such as eating a better diet or taking more exercise, to the general public.

Chief executive Shirley Cramer said hairdressing was one of a number of occupations where its trusted relationship with the public meant there were “golden opportunities to reinforce and support conversations” about health issues “in a sensitive and non-judgemental fashion”.

But NHF chief executive Hilary Hall questioned whether clients would welcome this in the salon environment. She also queried who would pay for the extra training stylists would need to do this properly. She said: “Although it’s positive that the report says one in four people would be prepared to take public health advice from a hairdresser, that still leaves 75 per cent unsure.”

CONTRACTS WARNING SALON OWNERS who employ staff on zero hours contracts should make sure these no longer contain exclusivity clauses, the NHF has warned.

The Department for Business, Innovation and Skills has announced zero hours contracts can no longer contain clauses that prevent employees from working elsewhere, even though under a zero hours contract they will not be guaranteed work at the salon.

Zero hours contracts are not that common within hairdressing, pointed out NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. But, she emphasised: “If your salon does use them, it’s now important to check the small print.”

COULD YOUR SALON BE ELIGIBLE FOR A £3,000 GOVERNMENT GRANT for installing high-speed broadband? Check out connectionvouchers.co.uk to see if your salon is in an area that is taking part in the Broadband Connection Voucher scheme.

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info CREATIVE HEAD

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TRENDVISION AWARD

ARE YOU READY?

THIS YEAR’S WELLA PROFESSIONALS’ TRENDVISION AWARD UK & IRELAND FINAL PROMISES TO BE BIGGER AND BETTER THAN EVER. NOT ONLY WILL THE FINALISTS BE REVEALED, BUT THE SHOWS ARE GOING TO, QUITE SIMPLY, KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF. BUT YOU COULD MISS IT ALL IF YOU HAVEN’T GOT A TICKET. SO, WE’LL ASK YOU AGAIN, ARE YOU READY? AS A HAIRDRESSER, you get the opportunity to attend a lot of amazing events, but this year’s Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final is one you won’t want to miss. It promises to be the most glamorous of them all.

Not only will you have the opportunity to celebrate with hairdressing’s finest as Wella Professionals reveals the TrendVision Award UK & Ireland winners, you’ll also enjoy: ● Collections from award-winning art teams HOB Salons, headed up by international creative director Akin Konizi; Marc Antoni, with creative direction by Bruno Marc; and Sanrizz, led by Leonardo Rizzo and Sharon Cox. ● A sensational show from the Sebastian Professional UK Creative Style Artists and the Cult Team, led by Lara Johnson Lifestyle’s Dom Capel, and Zullo & Holland’s Angelo Vallillo. ● A surprise show from one of Wella’s iconic ambassadors. ● A cocktail reception and a three-course dinner. ● A surprise headline act and DJ. The event will be hosted by TV presenter, Claudia Winkleman, so get ready for a night that people will be talking about long after the last reveller has gone home.

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DATE: 5 OCT 2015

WHERE: ROUNDHOUSE CAMDEN

ON SALE NOW! CREATIVE HEAD

10/08/2015 10:29

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

Support your favourite competitor by voting for them online in the ALL-NEW PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD 2015!

Vote online at wella.co.uk/trendvision

NEW FOR 2015!

The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award goes digital with a new website and a People’s Choice Award.

Visit wella.co.uk/trendvision to:

l Meet the competitors and leave them a good luck message l See who the esteemed panel of judges are this year l Vote for your favourite in the People’s Choice Award

THE SHOW TEAMS AKIN KONIZI, HOB SALONS

Admired by his contemporaries as an icon for a new generation, Akin is an award-winning hairdresser and an industry leading light.

BRUNO MARC, MARC ANTONI

A regular on stage for Wella Professionals, Bruno’s keen for his company to show you what it does best – create beautiful hair for clients.

LEONARDO RIZZO AND SHARON COX, SANRIZZ

International creative director Leonardo, and international education director Sharon, of Sanrizz salon group, promise an incredible show.

DOM CAPEL, LARA JOHNSON LIFESTYLE

Constantly in demand, Dom Capel is a seasoned pro and the perfect man to quiz when it comes to session knowledge.

ANGELO VALLILLO, ZULLO & HOLLAND

DON’T MISS OUT,y!

da book your ticket to am te ts en ev a ell Call the W ok bo or 28 81 1 60 45 on 08 ur yo h ug your ticket thro Wella Professionals’ account manager

A rising star on the British hairdressing scene, Angelo is creative and highly talented, as well as a Sebastian Professional Creative Style Artist.

A SPECIAL MYSTERY GUEST

One of the world’s most loved hairdressers, appearing on countless world hairdressing stages and educating 20,000 stylists every year.

Keep up to date with the latest Wella Professionals TrendVision Award news by following @wellapro #tva on Twitter CREATIVE HEAD

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Kay explains it all…

t e g r a t e h Hit t

r hair thinning ei th e m co er v o h Help clients tail business wit re r u o y st o o b d ts worries an rgeted treatmen ta e, v si n te in ’s Nioxin

HAIR THINNING is a concern for almost 50 per cent of the population, which is why you need Nioxin’s effective and targeted treatments for thinning hair – a range of products that aim to give thicker, fuller-looking hair for those who need it most.

Kay McIntyre, Nioxin UK education ambassador, explains why she and her clients are fans…

Creative HEAD: What is your favourite Nioxin treatment?

Kay McIntyre: Nioxin’s intensives are really popular with my clients, but one of my favourites is Diaboost.

This is a great product that actually thickens each hair strand.

CH: Why does your salon use Nioxin?

KM: Hair thinning is an increasing concern for men and women.

There is a growing demand for solutions that can deliver thicker, fuller-looking hair. When you use a product that delivers, such as Nioxin, your client can feel the difference and will come back time and again and trust your advice.

CH: How has Nioxin’s services helped boost your business?

KM: Nioxin offers our clients something different, which helps to meet a specific concern. When they experience a Nioxin treatment or service first hand, they can feel the difference so the results speak for themselves. This has really helped drive the retail side of our business.

Nioxin Deep Repair Hair Masque

Nioxin Scalp Density Protect

This masque provides up to a 97 per cent reduction of hair breakage.* It is composed of intense, lightweight conditioning agents that help provide protection against damage by strengthening the hair shaft.

An anti-breakage product that helps protect hair density.

It also helps to regenerate the scalp’s surface up to 34 per cent faster than untreated skin, when used with the Scalp Renew Natural Dermabrasion Treatment.

Nioxin Hair Booster This intensive, leave-on booster is designed to target areas of low density and advanced hair thinning, such as a receding hairline. The concentrated formula with CoZyme, keratin and vitamin complex, boosts fragile hairs by protecting from cuticle damage.

Nioxin Diaboost Treatment Offer beautiful, thicker-looking hair with Diaboost.

The thickening Xtrafusion treatment is designed to complement the Nioxin range and has been scientifically designed to increase the thickness of each hair strand.

*Versus non-conditioning shampoo, based on hair length of 30cm and measured by weight of broken hair

The intensive products you need in your salon now

Make thicker, fuller-looking hair a reality for your clients with Nioxin’s intensive treatments.

For more information, contact your Wella account manager or visit nioxin.co.uk 34

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CREATIVE HEAD

10/08/2015 10:36

MAKE YOUR

MARK EXPLORE A NEW FRONTIER IN COLOUR WITH UNCHARTED TERRITORIES BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS

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THE NEW

WORLD CONTRAILS CRISSCROSS

THE SKY AS WE EXPLORE THE WORLD IN OUR BILLIONS, BUT

DESPITE WHAT WE MAY THINK, ALL FOUR CORNERS HAVE NOT YET BEEN

EXPLORED AND INHABITED. MELTING ICE REVEALS NEW NORTHERN SEA ROUTES FOR THE BRAVE. IN SIBERIA AND NORTHERN CHINA, PIONEERS CREATE A NEW WAY OF LIVING,

EMBRACING A HOSTILE ENVIRONMENT. A NEW AESTHETIC IS CREATED: A STRONG, UNTAMED BEAUTY WITH RAW SPIRIT. THERE’S A WHOLE WORLD OUT THERE FOR YOU TO EXPLORE…

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OFF THE

CHART

UNCHARTED TERRITORIES BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS TAKEN INSPIRATION FROM FASHION, DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE TO INSPIRE YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS The north: a cold, hostile environment where only the strongest survive. The pioneers of the north are tenacious and strongwilled. They interweave the wild beauty of their surroundings with the latest technology. It is the spirit of the north and its wild beauty that makes up Wella Professionals’ A/W15 trend, Uncharted Territories. Mineral layers and marbled earth tones have been mixed with sophisticated architecture and functional fashion textures to bring you a trend that is fashion conscious but also incredibly nature-driven and intuitive. The Uncharted Territories trend is the perfect inspirational tool for colourists to use, adapt and apply in the salon to create on-trend looks for clients this season.

ETHNIC

MIX MARBLED

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SPICE

TONES UNCHARTED TERRITORIES

D E M A T RE UN

U T X TE

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“THE A/W15 TREND, UNCHARTED TERRITORIES, TAKES INSPIRATION FROM THE RAW AND WEATHERED ELEMENTS OF NATURE. THE TREND TAKES FASHION’S STRONG, PIONEERING SPIRIT OUT INTO THE AWE-INSPIRING WORLD WHERE NATURE REIGNS” DANNY DOWIE, CHEYNES AND WELLA COLOUR CLUB MEMBER

11/08/2015 16:54

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DOWN

TO EARTH

FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN CREATE A PHILOSOPHY OF WELL-BEING IN YOUR SALON WITH THE NEW WELLA PROFESSIONALS MINERAL COLLECTION CONSUMERS DON’T WANT to just look beautiful – they want to feel it. It’s not about starving yourself to achieve a certain level of skinny; it’s about eating the right food to make your skin radiate with health and your hair shine.

“Women are increasingly aware of the need to nurture their minds as well as their bodies,” says Wella Professionals global creative director for colour, Josh Wood, who has introduced a new in-salon experience in his Ateliers in London that reflect a well-being philosophy. “By creating a service menu that meets their hair, beauty, dietary and emotional needs, salons can become a home away from home.”

To go hand in hand with consumers’ need for all things

well-being, the Mineral Collection allows them to make their own choices; providing a sense of harmony in the salon, along with the colour and intensity they know and love.

The collection features five new shades that have been inspired by mineral layers and earthy tones that can be found in Wella Professionals’ Uncharted Territories trend to give saturated – but not heavy – colour results.

“For the ingredients-conscious consumer who is looking for a Couture Colour experience, Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE fits seamlessly,” says Josh. “The new Mineral Collection allows salons to be three steps ahead of their clients’ desires. They are on-trend, nature-inspired and authentically beautiful.”

GIVE THEM WHAT THEY WANT…

To coincide with the launch of the Mineral Collection, Wella Professionals has also unveiled two new colour services, combining the best of Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE and Wella Professionals ELEMENTS, to help you create a wellbeing sanctuary in your salon. “By extending the Wella Professionals ELEMENTS ‘free from’ range into the salon service, we’re able to offer the client a complete couture experience that feels bespoke and resonates with the desire for a complete way of life,” says Josh Wood.

COLOUR RENEWAL SERVICE This is a recommended care system to be used in-salon after Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE colour services.

COLOUR BOOST SERVICE Refresh faded mid-lengths and ends with a mineral boost of colour with Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE and Wella Professionals ELEMENTS.

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GO YOUR OWN WAY

IF THERE IS ONE WORD THAT SUMS UP THE A/W15 TRENDS FOR HAIR CUT, COLOUR AND STYLE, IT’S ‘INDIVIDUALITY’. DISCOVER THE KEY HAIR TRENDS FOR THE SEASON, BROUGHT TO YOU BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS The Wella Professionals global creative directors – Josh Wood and Eugene Souleiman – were out in force backstage at all the key fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

They are the decision-makers behind what your clients will be coveting next season and, for A/W15, they’ve picked four key trends. “Natural individuality plays a part in each trend, but each has its nuances that sets itself apart from the rest,” says Eugene.

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION Issey Miyake

PPQ

GRAPHIC ELEMENTS

THE HAIR: This trend is tribal yet individualistic. Hair is combed, brushed and shaped by hand into styles with graphic edges. Freshly cut fringes feature with wet-look ends and air-dried waves.

THE COLOUR: It gets personal this season, as colour serves “to add personality more than ever before”, says Josh Wood. For this trend, while each shade is individual, it is sleek, polished and has a distinct sheen.

AS SEEN AT:

PPQ

Jeremy Scott, Issey Miyake, Maison Margiela, Antonio Marras, Alexander McQueen and Yohji Yamamoto

Antonio Marras

DONE UNDONE

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THE HAIR: This is as far from perfectly coiffed as you can get.

While hair is effortlessly healthy and shiny, it’s worn in its most natural ‘undone’ state. It’s the new, laid-back blow-dry, with waves and kinks kept in favour of overdone ’dos – so don’t straighten out those dents, embrace them.

THE COLOUR: “This trend is characterised by a natural palette with flashes of colour,” says Josh. Some imperfection is left in the hair and colour is more subtle and less glossy than in previous years, serving to “celebrate the individual in her natural state”.

AS SEEN AT: Chloé, Miu Miu, PPQ, Burberry, Nina Ricci, Antonio Berardi and Victoria Beckham

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STRANGE CREATURES

THE HAIR: Have you ever been caught in a downpour without your umbrella? This trend has. From the raw and weathered elements of nature, there is a notable absence of combs, brushes and other ‘perfecting’ tools. Instead, the palms of the hand are used to create kinks, curls and webs.

THE COLOUR: Models’ hair colour on the catwalks was faded, as if it had been eroded for several years to become muted and subdued.

It’s a new dominance for natural, organic colour.

AS SEEN AT:

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MSGM

DKNY

MSGM

Esteban Cortazar

Esteban Cortazar

Max Mara, Versace, MSGM, Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang and Esteban Cortazar

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

THE HAIR: While this is all about glossy and lustrous hair, it’s still taking basic elements from nature. Hair is thick, well conditioned and exudes health and vitality. “This look is all about finish and is a melting and blending of textures,” says Eugene.

THE COLOUR: Here, “natural lustre wins over fake shades”, explains Josh. There’s also a focus on an almost metallic-like sheen. However, Josh reminds us that this isn’t the futuristic ‘space age’ look that we have seen in the past, but a subtle metallic finish.

AS SEEN AT:

Blumarine

SUPER DELUXE

Blumarine

Blumarine

Dior, Prada, Blumarine, Zac Posen, Donna Karan and Proenza Schouler

Contact your Wella Professionals account manager, call 01202 595700 or visit wellaprofessionals.co.uk.

For the latest news, follow @WellaPro on Twitter and WellaUK on Facebook.

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DISCOVER A NEW WORLD OF WELL-BEING

OUR MOST VIBRANT LONG LASTING COLOUR NOW COMES FORMULATED WITHOUT PPD & PTD • Up to 100% grey/white coverage • 1st permanent colour of its kind* to receive the European Centre Allergy Research Foundation seal of approval • Koleston Perfect Innosense’s crème color formula contains up to 25% conditioning agents and lipids • 5 NEW Mineral shades (4/17, 6/17, 7/18, 9/81, 10/95) For more information, contact your Wella Professionals Account Manager, call 01202 595700 or visit www.wella.com

* Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always perform an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before each colouration.

Strictly follow safety instructionsand consult www.wella.com/innosense. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants, you should not colour.

ME+ is present in Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals and Deep Browns of the

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BUSINESS HOW-TO GUIDES

BECAUSE RUNNING A SALON IS COMPLICATED ENOUGH The no-nonsense guide to launching your business

The no-nonsense guide to PR & marketing

The no-nonsense guide to team building

The no-nonsense guide to customer experience

Start your own salon

Build a better team

Get noticed

The perfect client journey

Your name, your way – now take the first step

Educate and motivate your glamour squad

Make sure everyone’s talking about your business

Ensure your clients enjoy the whole ride, not just the destination

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The no-nonsense guide to rules and regulations

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Branching out

All the xtras

Minimise the stress of running a salon

For salon owners who want more

A salon isn’t just about hair

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The no nonsense uide to retail and merchandising

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Each 28-page guide is packed with “how-to” advice on retail, expansion, franchising and common business headaches. Buy individually, or grab the set!

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LIGHTEN! LIFT! COLOUR!

WITHOUT COMPROMISE UP TO 94% LESS HAIR BREAKAGE* THE 1ST BOND ENFORCING SYSTEM DEVELOPED

BY A TRUE COLOUR EXPERT TO GUARANTEE Supreme hair quality after colouration No perceivable colour shifts No application change for your colour service No additional development time No higher developer needed Full compatibility with all professional colour systems Contact your Schwarzkopf Professional Sales Representative today or visit us on fibreplex.com For more information call 0800 526741 *LIGTHENING SERVICE WITH FIBREPLEX VS LIGHTENING SERVICE

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MANAGE YOUR SALON ON THE GO You already run your life from your phone, but what about your business? The Wahanda Connect app allows you to take full control of your salon and bookings on the move.

Quickly glance at daily salon activities Schedule and reschedule appointments Easily access client contact details Employees can self-manage their appointments

Simply block out times you are busy

Join Wahanda today and download the app for free. Get in touch for a free phone consultation with one of our experts on how to optimise your Wahanda listing. join@wahanda.com

Scene RICHARD ASHFORTH’S SACO team took centre stage at the 10th Asian Hairdresser Festival in China – an event that saw more than 20,000 hairdressers descend on the CECIS-Shanghai exhibition centre for two days of shows, seminars, competitions and an exhibition that included British brands KeraStraight and Tangle Teezer. Presenting alongside teams from across Asia, including Kerker from South Korea and A Cut Above from Malaysia, the salon and education brand presented its new collection Decoys – flattering, longer-length haircuts and edgy colours in everything from matt greys to bold tangerines. Meanwhile, Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock once again served on the competition’s judging panel, noting that standards in Chinese hairdressing are rapidly improving as Western influences make their mark. “British hairdressing is revered throughout Asia,” she says. “Doing business here is not without challenges, but there are significant opportunities for the right education brands.” See our exclusive report on Richard Ashforth’s NOISE Tokyo and Shanghai events on page 56.

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Competitors compete!

STYLE

At the exhibition

Shanghai

At the exhibition

Richard Ashforth on stage

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

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SACO

The competition floor

Kerker

The competitors

Richard Ashforth

A Cut Above

OUT The secret’s

GOLDWELL BROUGHT THE UK final of its global Color Zoom competition to an exciting conclusion at its annual Summer Party, held on a balmy summer’s evening. Salons from across the country sipped champagne in London’s Freemasons Hall (a Masonic meeting place since 1775 – decked out in abstract floral displays to celebrate the competition’s theme of Traditional Rebels) before enjoying a colour-drenched catwalk show from Goldwell global creative ambassador Mark Leeson and the announcement of the UK’s gold winners. They will now represent the UK at the Global Zoom final in Las Vegas in October – an event that promises creativity, innovation and entertainment on a lavish scale. Don’t worry – Creative HEAD will be reporting back with all the highlights…

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NEW TALENT CATEGORY: Natalie Cara Jones, Cameo, Herefordshire CREATIVE COLOURIST CATEGORY: Esther Layo, Hare & Bone, London PARTNER CATEGORY: Nicholas Holmes, Hobson & Holmes, Durham

Nicholas Holmes

Esther Layo

Natalie Cara Jones

And the winners are‌

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Sir Clive Woodward

Richard Watson

Andy Lopata Nicky Clarke OBE

Katie Piper

EVERY YEAR WE LEARN something new about business at Wella Business Network Live. Held at golfing favourite The Belfry in Sutton Coldfield and with the EIMI Style Team on hand to perfect tresses at the EIMI Try Me Style Bar, the event was hosted by comedian Lenny Peters and opened with networking expert Andy Lopata. Rugby World Cup-winning England coach Sir Clive Woodward stressed the importance of ‘teamship’ and being ready for pressure. Understanding future trends was the topic of speaker Richard Watson, and getting everyone on song were TV voice coaches David and Carrie Grant, with attendees singing in harmony to Let it Be and Lean on Me. Day two welcomed The Restoration Man presenter and architect George Clarke sharing the importance of mentors, while a standing ovation followed charity worker and TV presenter Katie Piper, who shared her emotional story of being attacked and disfigured with sulphuric acid. Closing the day was hairdressing icon Nicky Clarke OBE, who gave a frank and entertaining account of his 40-year career. How on earth will Wella top this next year?

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EIMI Style Team

station

George Clarke

David and Carrie Grant

INSPIRATION

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*

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05/08/2015 16:54:58

Charlie Taylor Andy Smith

Suzie McGill Lesley Jennison Dylan Brittain

THE CODE

WITH A FINAL VIBRANT FLOURISH, the Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Decoded Tour touched down in London following stops in Bristol, Edinburgh and Manchester. A 350-strong crowd gathered in Canary Wharf’s East Wintergarden for a styling, colouring and trend masterclass with international colour ambassador, Lesley Jennison.

Lesley opened proceedings by cleverly adapting techniques to create fresh looks – including pastel blending to create a ‘cloud’ of diffused hues – and also offered a sneak peek at the brand’s new grey shades. Essential Looks ambassador, Andy Smith, talked us through the styles ahead of the Essential Looks S/S15 Modern Style collection runway show. Dylan Brittain, Charlie Taylor and Suzie McGill primped models spanning the three trends: Pearlescent Girls, Hippi Glam and Rok Chik.

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Schwarzkopf Professional’s Stephen McDowell

Cracking

CREATIVE HEAD

11/08/2015 10:52

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With certified organic and natural ingredients, milk_shake® is the product line that is loved worldwide.

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Mischa G 48

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Images courtesy of Darren Gerrish

Set in the pastoral landscape of sun-dappled Cornwall, the Port Eliot Festival is a bit different from your average festival – creative, imaginative and with a heavy hit of fashion, its the perfect partner for the innovative Bumble and bumble.

Housed in the Wardrobe Department, the brand offered a stellar line-up of workshops, demos and discussions with its unique quirky touch. The theme was medieval beauty, with a heavy dollop of Game of Thrones for inspiration. Children enjoyed hitting the glitter and glue to make crowns with iconic milliner Stephen Jones, while House of Bumble’s Mischa G injected some New York sass into her Khaleesi plaits and braids, styling a stunning demo for a captivated audience and sitting down with MAC’s director of make-up artistry, Terry Barber, and The Guardian’s beauty columnist, Sali Hughes, for a panel discussion on 15th century beauty and its current influence. Bleach London’s Alex Brownsell went all out with full costumes based on medieval art, and there was even a menu of plaits for festival goers to plump for from a pop-up version of The Braid Bar, decamped from Selfridges London. Fun and fashion in equal measure – bravo Bumble!

Sali Hughes

BRAIDS

Terry Barber

Game of

CREATIVE HEAD

11/08/2015 10:52

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Sam McKnight

SAM’S town

CREATIVE HEAD’S The Coterie touched down in Edinburgh for a BaByliss PRO-sponsored event at Dovecot Studios, attended by more than 100 hairdressers, salon owners and their teams. The draw?

An evening with hairdressing icon Sam McKnight.

With a CV that encompasses everything from styling Kate Moss’s wedding hair, working with Princess Diana on her first fashion cover and collaborating with Karl Lagerfeld, attendees knew from the moment they set foot in the room that they were in for a treat.

Providing a unique insight into his four-decade hairdressing journey, Sam went through key moments with friend and BeautyMART co-founder Anna-Marie Solowij. He praised Creative HEAD for its role in bringing together the salon and session worlds and shared nuggets of advice for those hoping to make it in the notoriously demanding fashion sphere: “Paths will cross with people you meet on the way up, so don’t burn any bridges,” he told the crowd, before adding with a smile: “Well, maybe singe them a little!”

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Sam with Anna-Marie Solowij

THE NEXT COTERIE EVENT takes place in London on 19 October. Visit creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie for details

CREATIVE HEAD

12/08/2015 16:45

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

Reveal long-lasting hair beauty When it comes to finding a solution for clients’ damaged hair, it’s got to be Pro Fiber by L’Oréal Professionnel – a recharging haircare programme that starts in-salon and is prolonged at home

ANDREW BARTON, creative director of Urban Retreat at Harrods, used Pro Fiber Revive after carrying out a thorough consultation to understand the thickness and level of damage to his client Hellana’s hair. Pro Fiber transformed the look of her hair. It now feels stronger and looks healthier and shinier, as if revived. But what truly sets Pro Fiber apart, says Andrew, is the technology behind the innovation.

The masque is applied and grips to the hair like a magnet for long-lasting results, meaning the effect can be prolonged at home with the Pro Fiber homecare and Pro Fiber Recharge. What’s more, the Pro Fiber leave-in serums provide a look of extra smoothness as well as heat protection – perfect for use with heat-styling tools.

BEFORE

AFTER

Pro Fiber starts in the salon and is prolonged at home. To discover more, speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/profiber CREATIVE HEAD

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CENTRE OF

FROM FIERY REDHEADS TO COPPER PIXIES, REINVENT RED FOR CLIENTS WHO WANT

DEEP VIOLET SERVICE

The service brings out the colour brilliance from within, while playing with the hair’s movement.

Goldwell Topchic @Elumenated, Topchic MaxReds and Topchic Effects were used for a high fashion effect.

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FIERY RED SERVICE

A red statement, strong and luxurious.

Colour is ignited by Goldwell Topchic @Elumenated shades with bold dimensions of fiery red and brilliant coppers for the ultimate red experience.

CREATIVE HEAD

10/08/2015 10:40

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

ATTENTION

TO STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD WITH GOLDWELL’S FOUR NEW COLOUR SERVICES

PLAY WITH FIRE

Red isn’t for the faint-hearted. It’s a statement, a choice by your client to reveal who they are – and it’s up to you to find the perfect red to embody that. Whether they want a bold, fiery red or something that exudes confidence, Goldwell’s four new services enable you to create the perfect red for your client. This is made possible by the new Goldwell Topchic Effects, which provides up to 78 per cent more durability for intense highlight colour.

GLOWING MAHOGANY SERVICE

Inspired by dazzling Goldwell Elumen shades. A sophisticated mahogany red that has the luxury of both warm and cool tones all melting together into one stunning multi-dimensional colour.

SHIMMERING COPPER SERVICE

Colour is empowered by Goldwell Topchic @Elumenated shades for shimmering and soft copper accents. Perfect for transition from blonde to red with copper and blonde shimmers for beautiful-looking hair.

Get your clients ready for red with Goldwell. For more information, visit goldwell.com or search for @GoldwellUK on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram CREATIVE HEAD

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“WITH THIS COLLECTION YOU WILL BE A TRUE RED EXPERT!” ---

Rodica Hristu ---

Goldwell Global Master, North America

THE RED COLLECTION Explore a broad variety of reds to meet your clients’ individual needs.

4 New services and techniques, from copper to mahogany, and fiery red to deep violet.

9 New Topchic and Colorance shades — expanding the @Elumenated technology to a whole color spectrum of red, brown and blonde with a red spark.

Targeted marketing and education support to help you master the unlimited possibilities of red.

To view the full Red collection, visit www.goldwell.com

goldwelluk

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MAKE SOME IT STARTED AS A WHISPER – A ONE-OFF POP-UP HAIR SHOW IN EAST LONDON DESIGNED TO INJECT SOMETHING NEW AND DIFFERENT INTO SALON INTERNATIONAL WEEKEND. NOW NOISE, THE BRAINCHILD OF SACO OWNER RICHARD ASHFORTH, HAS BECOME A FULL-ON GLOBAL ROAR, WITH EVENTS IN MOSCOW, PARIS AND – MOST RECENTLY – SHANGHAI AND TOKYO IGNITING PASSION AND FUELLING CREATIVITY IN WAYS NEVER SEEN BEFORE ON STAGE 56

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Shanghai images courtesy of Qian Jun

‘DARE TO BE DIFFERENT’ is Richard’s mantra, and NOISE certainly delivers a unique hair/fashion/music experience.

Held in underground venues sealed off with the distinctive yellow NOISE ‘police tape’, NOISE events are more akin to secret gigs, with raw production, live bands and DJs creating an edgy atmosphere before big-name hair stars such as Tim Hartley, Mazella&Palmer and Spanish team X-presion take to the stage to showcase their latest ideas.

Presented with the opportunity to perform with total creative freedom, NOISE artists let loose with never-before-seen concepts that range from the thrillingly beautiful to the unconventional and challenging.

At NOISE Shanghai, which took place in an atmospheric former air-raid shelter, a packed-out crowd went wild as the ‘mad scientists’ at Debut Academy snipped away at wigs made entirely of straws, while the Taiwanese Eros team created avant-garde visions worthy of a zombie apocalypse.

At NOISE Tokyo, acts including DaB, Dada Cubic, Uka and Vetica experimented with everything from synchronised cutting to models shaving their own hair off, before SACO Academy elegantly shifted the mood with a series of exquisite masterpieces created by literally painting hair with stripes and splatters of bright red, blue and yellow as their models’ heads protruded through an oversized canvas.

But it was a boiler-suited Peter Gray and his PG Zoo team who took the hair show concept – not to mention NOISE – into new territory. Striding about the stage wielding oversized shears, the stylists hacked at hair, clothes and anything else that crossed their path while pole dancers gyrated, smoke machines billowed and a model on prosthetic legs strode out into the audience.

Get the NOISE message? Loud and clear!

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♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦

Dripping in diamonds We all know diamonds are a girl’s best friend – clients can now enjoy their own little bit of sparkle with the BaByliss PRO Diamond Collection ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦

WE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN obsessed with precious stones – and diamonds are the grandest of them all. They’re bright, sparkly and reassuringly unbreakable. As the philosopher Confucius once said: “Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without,” or as Elizabeth Taylor put it in her usual indomitable style: “Big girls need big diamonds.” Too true. Diamonds, however, are more than merely ornamental. The precious stone is also known for its fabulous heat transfer and distribution properties.

With the new BaByliss PRO Diamond Collection, clients can enjoy a little bit of sparkle everyday. The hairdryer and styler combine diamond-infused ceramics with active ionic conditioners to transform the hair, giving long-lasting radiant shine and a super smooth frizz-free finish. And if you’re in any doubt about the demand for smooth hair, then worry not – the so-smooth-it-shines style made a glorious return to the catwalks for A/W15. Whether long and flowing at Ellie Saab, Blumarine and Christian Dior, or short and straight as at Chanel and Christopher Kane, hair was super-smooth and super-shiny – just the way we like it.

“I’d never seen an ionic straightener deliver this level of instant shine and smoothing until now. It’s amazing to see science make such a difference.

These are by far my favourite straighteners and a must-have in my day-to-day kit” PAUL PERCIVAL, CO-OWNER, PERCY & REED

The BaByliss PRO Diamond Collection is available at Salon Services.

For more information, visit babylisspro.co.uk, or for the latest news and updates, see Instagram @babylissprouk, facebook.com/BaBylissPROUK or twitter.com/BaBylissPROUK 58

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The styler features diamond-infused ceramic plates with super ionic conditioners that, like the dryer, produce 90 per cent more ions to deliver superb smoothness and shine, every time. The smooth plate finish allows the styler’s 110mm longer-length plates to glide effortlessly through hair, for a healthy shine.

Chanel A/W15. Image courtesy Victor Virgile/Getty Images

Ellie Saab A/W15. Image courtesy Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/Getty Images

BaByliss PRO Diamond Styler

BaByliss PRO Diamond Dryer This special edition professional dryer with diamond-infused ceramics and super ionic conditioners produces 90 per cent more ions for enhanced smoothness and flawless shine. It also features 2,100 watts with a long-life AC motor to deliver a powerful, penetrating airflow for a super-fast drying time.

CREATIVE HEAD

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The ultimate solution in Hair Couture, Extensions and Ready to Wear Hair. HABIA accredited Hair Extension education with free in-salon training, full range of application methods, Parisian Styling & Hair Care, accessories & much more. Of fering integrated extension & hair care solutions, convenience and af fordability.

Let your clients experience the luxur y and full Balmain fashion experience. #Balmaination

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T OP SH EL F

EXTENSIONS

AS YOUR CLIENTS’ DESIRE FOR LONG HAIR CONTINUES TO GROW, WE LOOK AT THE MANY POSSIBILITIES OF EXTENSIONS

Gold Fever’s luxurious extensions don’t just enhance length – the hair is sealed with keratin bonds that not only protect the client’s original hair but also promote growth. The extensions provide extra volume by thickening the hair from root right down to the tip, while the perfectly symmetrical Gold Fever Protein Tips allow you to cut and shape without losing hair during the process – so shedding is a thing of the past. This is a high-end affair with Indian Ritual Hair that’s 100 per cent ethical and traceable. The company is the idea of Katie Jane Gold, part of the family that revolutionised hair extensions in the UK nearly 25 years ago. A premium product with plenty of heritage.

IN-SALON SERVICE goldfever.com

Balmain Paris Hair Couture’s Systèm Volume is available for fine hair or normal hair – so you can give your client a look tailored to their needs.

IN-SALON SERVICE

balmainhair.com

Give your clients the celebrity treatment with Gold Class hair extensions, a favourite among A-Listers.

The Only Way Is Essex star, Lauren Pope, has launched Hair Rehab into salons and features 5A Double Drawn Indian Remy human hair in 30 shades.

IN-SALON SERVICE

hairrehablondon.com

Hair Development’s HD extensions are so lightweight your clients might just forget they’re wearing any at all!

IN-SALON SERVICE

IN-SALON SERVICE

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CREATIVE HEAD

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Give clients the flexibility to change their style short or long term with TempTress extensions.

Wefts can be taped individually and re-used.

Zen Tape Hair Extensions are easy to apply and easy to remove and the gel adhesive lasts for six to eight weeks – it’s a no-brainer!

salon-success.co.uk/ temptress

zenhair.co

IN-SALON SERVICE

IN-SALON SERVICE

Use Hairaisers Professional Dual System to apply flat tip or rounded extensions – the keratin creates a strong bond that mimics the hair’s structure and is resistant to shampoos and colouring.

TO APPLY

PRICE £540, INCLUDING TRAINING AND STARTER PACK hairaisers.com

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#Extensions

Remi Cachet might only be four years old, but boy has it achieved big things in that time! Not only has the company recently added six new colours to its core range, taking the total number of shades to more than 40, it’s also launched a new extensions system, UltraTips, that are reusable and you don’t need to retip. Managing director Victoria Lynch, says: “The response from stylists has been phenomenal. They are craving a new method of application that offers them a clean and damage-free working method, while still allowing them creativity.”

With clients increasingly seeking a natural, sun-kissed look, balayage techniques have become immensely popular. International colourist Jack Howard has created a collection of Balayage Bond extensions with Beauty Works that are cleverly coloured to frame and flatter the face using natural tones. Clients can chose from two application methods – soft stick extensions, which use small cushioning copper rings, or flat tip pre-bonded extensions, which use an Italian keratin formula to seamlessly attach to the hair.

remicachet.com

beautyworksonline.com

T O OL S OF T H E T R A DE

The Balmain Paris Hair Couture Professional Titanium Straightener delivers lasting effects at a temperature safe for extension-wearers, while the Professional Blow Dryer reduces heat damage by speeding up the drying process.

RRP STRAIGHTENER £69.95, DRYER £99.95 balmainhair.com

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Your clients can tailor the level of heat they need for their extensions with the new BaByliss PRO Diamond Styler, which has 10 digital temperature settings and glides effortlessly through hair with its diamond-infused plates.

RRP £90

babylisspro.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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OF A R E YOU A

C OL OU R ARTISAN?

Enhance your clients’ natural hair with our world renowned hair extensions.

Join the Artisans and become a Certified Great Lengths Extensionist.

Contact our education experts on training@greatlengthshair.co.uk

W W W.G R E A T L E NG T H S H A I R .C O.U K

#Extensions BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE HAIR DRESS

RRP £69.95

balmainhair.com

OFFER YOUR CLIENTS the length they crave without commitment with clip-in extensions. Not only can clients take these puppies home and easily fit them themselves, but they are also a huge retail opportunity for salons. Hairpieces don’t come much more glamorous than the Balmain Paris Hair Couture Hair Dress.

Clients can fix it at home without the need for bonds, clips or rings, and can style the ‘dress’ themselves. Available in nine ombre and multi-tonal colours, this is 45cm of pure luxury. For soft, smooth hair that lasts, look no further than Sleek Hair’s latest innovation, Remi Touch Choice Brazilian Keratin Remi range. The hair is infused with a unique keratin protein treatment to minimise frizz and tangling. But if it’s colour your clients crave, they’ll love Cinderella Hair Clip-in Extensions. With a range of shades that includes on-trend pastels, these quick fixes will brighten up their style in seconds.

For chameleons who want two looks from one hair piece, offer American Dream’s Loop Duo, as it features a different colour on each side.

These temporary extensions are versatile, easy to use and feature no clips, glue or tape. Instead, the iconic grade remi hair pieces are applied in a few seconds by a thin, near-invisible wire.

SLEEK HAIR REMI TOUCH CHOICE BRAZILIAN KERATIN REMI

Lauren Pope

GO FORTH AND RETAIL

RRP FROM £7.99 sleek.co.uk

CINDERELLA HAIR CLIP-IN EXTENSIONS

AMERICAN DREAM LOOP DUO

cinderellahair.co.uk

americandreamextensions.com

RRP FROM £120

RRP £140

Why should girls have all the fun? Whether your male clients are suffering from thinning hair or just want to plump up their quiffs, give them a helping hand with some Men-Hancements from Great Lengths.

IN SALON SERVICE

greatlengthshair.co.uk

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CREATIVE HEAD Advert:Remi Cachet 31/07/2015 12:07 Page 1

elegant & luxurious hair extensions stylists love to work with. remi cachet offers a range of 100% human hair extensions to suit different budgets and application from pre-bonded (including the revolutionary Ultratipstm and minitipstm), wefts and tape hair.

Supported with an extensive range of equipment & tools to make your life easier, a full aftercare range and haBia accredited training by fellow professional extensionists.

w w w . r e m i c a c h e t . c o m

#Extensions

PIECE BY PIECE

HAIR REHAB LONDON LUXE WRAP PONYTAIL,

AMERICAN DREAM CLIP-IN FRINGES

hairrehablondon.com

americandreamextensions.com

RRP £74.99

FOXY FISHTAIL BRAID

RRP £19.95

foxyhairextensions.net

Hair by Christophe Gaillet for Balmain Paris Hair Couture, styling by Thierry Pietu, photography by Richard Monsieurs

FOR CLIENTS WHO struggle with styling or want to change their look quickly, hairpieces can be a godsend. If it’s a thick, luxurious ponytails your clients are tempted by, give them the glamorous way to cheat with the Hair Rehab London Luxe Wrap Ponytail. American Dream has a collection of four different clip-in fringes, while Foxy Hair can give clients the perfect fishtail braid. And for a bun that can be styled messy or sleek, Balmain Paris Hair Couture delivers.

RRP FROM £12.95

BALMAIN BORDEAUX BUN

RRP £34.95

balmainhair.com

LET’S TA K E CA RE Help clients keep their extensions in the best condition with the Beauty Works aftercare range. The collection includes a protecting Argan Serum to lock in moisture and the 10-in-1 Miracle Spray, with a trio of oils – argan, linen seed and macadamia – to defend against heat.

Send clients home with the tools they need to care for their new hair – the Balmain Hair Beauty Bag is stuffed with extensionfriendly products and a brochure to advise them on maintenance.

Great Lengths Daily Moisture Shampoo gently cleanses the scalp without harming your client’s hair extensions, while the Conditioner 60 Sec repairs damaged hair in just one minute. The Anti Tap Water spray restores the hair to its natural PH balance.

RRP FROM £11.99

RRP FROM £12.50

beautyworks.com

greatlengthshair.co.uk

The Remi Cachet aftercare range is not only available in regular size, but also in 100ml travel-sized bottles, so your clients can keep their extensions in top condition even when they’re away from home.

RRP £54.95

RRP FROM £6

balmainhair.com

remicachet.com

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BA L AYA GE COLOUR COLLECTION The go-to for modern, chic hair; Balayage creates depth and dimension.

Available for salon professionals, made from double drawn Remy Human Hair, which is hand-selected and specifically processed to ensure all hairlengths are the same, resulting in fuller, thicker hair extensions from root to tip.

Available in: NEW soft stick tip micro ring hair extensions Italian Keratin pre-bonded hair extensions Double wefted weft hair extensions

Apply Email Tel Web

Untitled-1 1

Contact us to arrange a salon visit and receive a free sample

for a Trade Account: trade@beautyworks.co.uk 0843 289 5198 www.beautyworksonline.com

12/08/2015 09:54

HOME LOVE HOW-TO TEST FIX WATCH WIN SHOP

Layered Style Stars It’s time to meet the winners

In June, Layered launched a nationwide search for the hottest up-and-coming hair talent to form an exclusive squad of Style Stars. Now we can unveil the winners for 2015, a stellar group of 10 vibrant, passionate stylists who love being in front of the camera and showing people how to style hair.

They’ll be presenting video blogs, top tips and behind-the-scenes bustle from their lives as expert stylists to Layered’s readers.

See them in action on layeredonline.com layeredonline.com @layeredonline #StyleSquad

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Say hello to

Style Stars 2015!

Amy-Nuala Leahy Ciente Salon, Hertfordshire

Matthew Sutcliffe Renegade Hair Studio, Leeds

Crystal Stanley Urban Retreat Harrods, London

Jamie Bowles Barbarella Hair, Northampton

Natalia Maxwell Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester

Paddy McDougall Rainbow Room International, Glasgow

Harley Jane Pearce Vanilla Lounge, Devon

Harry Souter Headmasters, Farnham

Jessica Snadden Headmasters Wandsworth, London

Jack Hirst Charles Worthington, London

More from Layered!

Look out for the second edition of Layered’s print magazine, which will hit UK salons and London streets in September during London Fashion Week. Tell us what you think @LayeredOnline

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Layered’s Big Hair Do, the biggest hairdressing party the UK’s ever seen, will take place across 100 salons on Thursday 24 September. Catch the live action across social media on @LayeredOnline. See you there!

11/08/2015 16:22

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NEAR WILD HEAVEN THE RADIO ART TEAM FUSES CULT AND COMMERCIAL LOOKS TO REAFFIRM ITS STATUS AS EAST LONDON’S GO-TO SALON PHOTOGRAPHY BY JC VERONA

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HAIR Radio Art Team, using Bumble and bumble. MAKE-UP Daniel Delgado SEE MORE from the shoot.

Visit creativeheadmag.com

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The beautiful the damned Featuring metallic, liquid-like looks, Antoinette Beenders brings to life a world that is part vintage and part futuristic PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNY HANDS

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HAIR AND CREATIVE DIRECTION Antoinette Beenders, Aveda global creative director. MAKE-UP Mary Jane Frost. STYLING Ann Shore SEE MORE from this and other incredible fashion shoots, visit creativeheadmag.com

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ALL

APOLOGIES

A CELEBRATION OF STARK BEAUTY AND MINIMALIST ’90S EDGE, FROM ERROL DOUGLAS MBE PHOTOGRAPHY BY BARRY JEFFERY CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Errol Douglas MBE. MAKE-UP Elizabeth Rita. STYLING Rachel Gold. MODELS Cecilia@Milk, Tess@Nevs

LAST WORD

STAY ON SONG

MARC ANTONI’S BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI EXPLAINS WHY HITTING THE RIGHT NOTES IN THE SALON CAN BOOST THE CLIENT EXPERIENCE AND YOUR PROFITS

THE POWER OF MUSIC is indisputable. It has the potential to affect our moods and alter how we perceive and experience our surroundings and the people that occupy them.

It is a hugely effective tool in making people feel relaxed and comfortable. Used correctly it can create the kind of positive atmosphere that will leave a lasting positive impression on your customers.

Understandably, music is an integral part of many business owners’ approaches to constructing the perfect environment.

You need to know your clientele; who is coming to your salon and what are their tastes? In an ideal world, music should embody your brand and reflect how you want your customers to experience it. Clients want to walk away from salons looking great and feeling amazing. When buying a haircut, our customers are paying for more than our service and expertise, they are paying for an indulgent experience that leaves them feeling refreshed, rejuvenated and full of confidence.

At Marc Antoni, we really appreciate how music helps us do this so we ensure we are up-to-date with our PPL and PRS for Music licences. Music is one of the most cost-effective and

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powerful tools we have in creating a pleasing ambience that resonates with customers. We partner with an audio design company, TSG Media, which specialises in curating bespoke playlists for businesses to ensure the tone and volume of the music we play is on-point. For example in a Marc Antoni salon you’ll hear Janet Jackson’s Together Again, Heartbeat Song by Kelly Clarkson and En Vogue’s Hold On. Music gives customers in the waiting area something to enjoy while staff are occupied with a full salon. It sets a scene for an enjoyable experience and lets them know that we value their comfort, even when they are waiting. Music should be used not only to keep customers happy, but also staff. Our hairdressers are the lifeblood of our business and we want them to love coming to work. That means creating an environment they enjoy and encouraging workflow with the right background tunes.

Bruno Marc Giamattei is co-founder of the Marc Antoni salon group. To ensure you’re up-to-date with your PPL licence, visit ppluk.com

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13/08/2015 16:19

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

d e r i p s n i t e g o t e Tim king for new ways For the stylist who’s always loo eas by JOICO to be inspired, see Salon I-D

YOU LIKE BEING INSPIRED, RIGHT? Well, JOICO has created a concept that is aimed at inspiring, developing and supporting hairdressers worldwide by providing them with stunning yet salon-friendly cutting, colouring and styling techniques. The techniques taught at the Salon I-Deas workshop can be learnt by hairdressers from all backgrounds and all levels of experience.

What’s more, all the looks from the Salon I-Deas by JOICO collection can be adapted to suit any client in the salon. The Salon I-Deas by JOICO three-day workshop is the perfect place to seek new and inspirational cut and colour techniques that you can take back to the salon the very next day. This is made possible thanks to the Salon I-Deas way of teaching as JOICO explains cutting, colouring and styling in steps that are easy to understand and memorise. The four commercial techniques that you’ll learn have been created by JOICO’s vision director, Gianni Scumaci, to provide you with a solid, yet flexible skill set that can be adapted for any client, successfully enhancing the creative repertoire of any stylist.

Show off your style WANT TO SHOW the world just what you’re capable of as a hairdresser? Or maybe you’ve been on a recent JOICO course and feel inspired? Whatever your reasons, the Salon I-Deas by JOICO Stylist Award is an opportunity to show off your skills. Not only will you enter the JOICO Hall of Fame, but you’ll also win a VIP trip to Las Vegas for you and a colleague. Sound good to you? To be in with a chance of winning, you first have to attend a Salon I-Deas by JOICO workshop and follow the steps below...

l Use colour choices inspired by Salon I-Deas to enhance the haircut. l Style your look with the many JOICO products available to you. l Share a picture of your look on Instagram, using #joicosalonideas. l Get it online by 31 March 2016.

Gianni Scumaci

l Attend a Salon I-Deas by JOICO workshop and add your own spin.

For more information on the Salon I-Deas by JOICO national workshops, call 0845 071 2326 or visit salon-ideas.com CREATIVE HEAD

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#McQueen

“I KNEW LEE as we were all living near each other in Hoxton. It was all happening for him. I was with Streeters agency, and had been working in session for about three years at that point. Lee switched from using Eugene Souleiman the previous year. Barnabé was heading the hair for this show, but he was in Paris so Lee asked me to be second in command and to head it up when Barnabé wasn’t around.

I made the occasional visit to his studio as the hair had to develop as the collection did. It was 1996, we were part of this new set in London and it was a great vibe backstage, working with this group of friends.

“It was a very long show – about 30 minutes – and was the first of its kind, creating an ‘event’ before everyone else, doing stuff in warehouses. It was a seminal show in Lee’s career and for the industry.

“It was all about how it looked. A lot of the show pieces were uncomfortable, digging into the girls. On shows at that time, the girls’ eyes were often taped back. What came from that was a very aggressive finish. His attitude to life was very much like that. His themes were dark, shows were based on rape, punky vampires, alien invasion. All the hair was pulled up to the centre really tight and it was then twisted from front to back with hair pieces added to bulk it out.

Finally, it was ridged to take on a spinal appearance. It was a face lift hair do. Super tight. He never thought about making it comfortable.

Working with the feathers, antlers and animal horns on the hair was incredible, the proportions looks so new and beautiful. We started really early, and Lee would show at a time when everyone could come.

So we had the whole afternoon, but it all ran late, of course!

“Christ Church in Spitalfields, the show’s location, was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor in the 18th century and his six London churches are supposed to have been designed so as to make two triangles to become a pentacle. That was ideal for Lee! He created a heavy energy that came from backstage – the girls would come out to pumping techno music. Afterwards we all went to the Bricklayers Arms!

“Looking back, that show was the moment Lee Alexander McQueen went from showing punky, rebellious clothes to punky, rebellious couture. Dante felt a bit like how I imagine being at Woodstock might have felt. The following season he was at Givenchy and I worked at Balenciaga on Nicolas Ghesquière’s second collection, as Guido Palau wasn’t available. I got Issey Miyake that season, too. I started working with a lot of designers after that, and I started getting good editorial.

I did Karen Elson’s hair for i-D – a cross between a horse’s mane and a greasy ponytail, and shot with David Sims for Harper’s Bazaar.

That led me to New York…”

INFERNO: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

BY KENT BAKER IS PUBLISHED BY LAURENCE KING (RRP £24.95)

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#McQueen

“THERE WERE SPOOKY VIBES AT THE SHOW. LEE’S DOGS WOULD NOT STOP BARKING AND [MAKE-UP ARTIST] VAL GARLAND’S ROSARY BEADS BROKE. EVERYBODY WAS FREAKING OUT BUT THERE WAS A CRAZY ENERGY…”

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Inside the Inferno Sme stylists are lucky enough to be there the moment everything changes, when a true star is born. For Adam Bryant – session stylist and now creative director at Ethos Hairdressing – that moment came on 1 March, 1996 at Christ Church, Spitalfields. It was (Lee) Alexander McQueen’s seventh show, Dante, and the pressure was on after his previous, The Hunger, was deemed “a mess” by fashion critics. What he delivered would help land him the lead design job at Givenchy in Paris. Catalogued in the book Inferno: Alexander McQueen by photographer Kent Baker, this show – with Adam on hair for Barnabé – left its mark on everyone involved…

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#FutureTrends

Sibling A/W15, images courtesy of BaByliss PRO

“I HAVE WORKED WITH SIBLING FOR A LONG TIME, IT’S A GREAT SHOW TO DO BECAUSE IT IS ALWAYS SO FUN”

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They needed someone local to Milan to style hair for their lookbooks, so off he went. “That’s when the journey started again and I thought I should try to get an agent.” Instead of going to Julian Watson or Art Partner, where he already had contacts (as they represent Guido), he decided to approach Premier. “I didn’t want to be given anything,” Syd explains. “I wanted to have a fresh slate and start with my own name rather than be affiliated with someone else. I was a totally new talent for them. They represent greats like Sam McKnight so it was bit of a risk for them to take me on, but they did and it all grew from there. It was one job after another.”

Racking up an impressive editorial portfolio (think British, Japanese and Chinese Vogue, Elle, InStyle, i-D, Dazed & Confused and W Magazine), Syd started to make his mark on the fashion week circuit, establishing a strong relationship with hip London brand, Sibling. “I have worked with Sibling for a long time, so I get what the brand’s about. It’s big, textured, fun and bright. It’s a great show to do because it is always so fun”.

Working with BaByliss PRO on the show this season was no different, with messy neon Mohawks. “One of the best things about A/W15 was the amount of shows I had in London. It was the most I have ever done and kind of the most hair I have ever done as well, in the sense that it wasn’t just a low ponytail. It felt like every show that I did there was a ‘look’”.

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Last year saw Syd’s fashion weeks come into their own, when he was made UK ambassador for L’Oréal Paris, a huge achievement that he’s extremely proud of: “I thought ‘wow’, they have chosen me out of everyone they have seen and that’s quite an amazing thing to achieve before you’re even 30.” The accolades keep on coming for Syd, who was also nominated for Most Wanted Session Stylist 2015. “It’s weird in a way, because I’m up against my old boss, the biggest name in the industry.

I’m also up against Anthony Turner, whom I used to live with, and then there’s James Pecis, who’s very, very talented, and also Adam Reed, who has an amazing range of products that sells really, really well, his own name is amazing… I’m a bit like a small fish in a big pond! I feel quite honoured to be honest.”

It’s clear after our chat that Syd is a true all-rounder – salon stylist, session stylist, a backstage hair ambassador, hardworking, humble and a delight. But how does he balance it all? “By being very, very, very organised,” he replies simply.

“I think still working in a salon keeps you real. You can very easily get wrapped up in the fashion world, but it’s quite grounding to go into a salon and do a full day of 14 to 15 clients and just talk to them about everyday life. The salon is an anchor and keeps me on par with my techniques. If you are constantly using your scissors and comb, you will never forget how to be a hairdresser.”

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#FutureTrends

HAIRDRESSER SYD HAYES is in the car on the way back from a shoot with The Gentlewoman magazine. A man who works in a salon as much as he does on shoots and shows is always in a car, travelling from one place to the other. He has hairdressing in his blood, you see. His dad, David Hayes, is a hairdresser and owner of the small family-run salon Q Cut in Kew, where Syd is very much still involved. “I grew up around there,” he smiles. Studying at school, Syd found himself into arts and photography, before ultimately deciding he would pursue a career that would allow him to be more creative.

And that was hair. “With hairdressing you can have a creative vision – it’s a type of art. I very much see hair as like sculpture – you can do small things or you can do really big creative things,” he explains.

But it wasn’t going to be given to him on a plate, nor did he want it as such: “I remember my dad saying to me: ‘You can go into hairdressing and that’s fine, but you’re not going to come and work for me’, which I thought was quite good. It forced me to work hard.” So at the age of 17 he went with his dad to London to Nicky Clarke’s prestigious Mount Street salon: “We walked in there and it was a big, grand salon, there were Mayfair women running around, hundreds of assistants and it was all very glamorous. As a 17-year-old boy I was sold!”

Starting there with a Saturday job when still at school, Syd went on to qualify and become a full-time assistant to Nicky, who showed him the bright lights of session and celebrity work. “I knew that was something I wanted to go into straight away,” he remembers. After three and a half years there, having had a taste of hairdressing away from the salon, Syd decided he wanted more editorial work and set his sights on moving to a salon that would allow him more exposure into that world.

“I remember looking around at the time and Luke Hersheson [of Hershesons salon group] was doing really well in editorial as well as in the salon and the brand had just opened up in Harvey Nichols. So I went and assisted Luke and worked as a stylist in Harvey Nichols, which was great because it gave me another perspective and angle on hairdressing that was quite different to what I had been taught before.”

Having been at Hershesons and assisting Luke on shoots for two years, Syd then set his sights on high-end fashion. “I always used to look at French and Italian Vogue to see who was doing what and it was Guido – it was always Guido. So I decided that I would try to get in contact with him to see if he needed anyone for his team.” What ensued was a typically fabulous fashion encounter. While in Los Angeles for a shoot, Syd ended up having his interview with Guido Palau, who was also there at the time, over breakfast at a posh Beverly Hills hotel rooftop. “I walked in there at the age of 21 and had this meeting – it was all a bit mental as I had never even been to LA before. Right there he asked me to come on board for three months as a trial.”

The timing couldn’t have been more perfect as it was just at the beginning of show season, and so Syd ran the fashion week gauntlet as part of Guido’s team. What Syd didn’t realise was that this trial was actually an audition to be Guido’s new full-time assistant – and he got the gig. Cue a move to New York and a new, fast-paced life: “It was quite surreal. I was suddenly part of Guido’s entourage, doing shows for Prada and Miu Miu, Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton and all those huge labels. I remember thinking ‘this is crazy’, but that’s where it all began”.

Syd looks back on those days fondly: “Working with Guido was a 24/7 job, you were always on call. We had loads and loads of fun but were always ready at anytime to jump on a plane. It was a big job, with lots of responsibility, but it was all so worth it. Guido works phenomenally hard – I have never met anyone with such a great work ethic.”

After two and a half years, Syd decided it was time to come home. At the time, his dad was considering shutting down Q Cut having had 25 years of good trade. “I just thought – he can’t close the salon, I’ve grown up there. So I made a conscious decision that I was going to come back to London to work there. That’s quite a hard thing to do once you have been on the road and working with the best people in the fashion business, but it was the right choice.”

There, Syd worked hard in the family business, but it wasn’t long before fashion came calling again. It was a call, in fact, from Versace, whom he had worked with while with Guido.

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Paris

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In a Hayes daze He isn’t even 30 yet and hairdresser Syd Hayes is blazing a trail. From runway to real life he really does it all. Get caught in his wake‌

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LO O P P O N Y TA I L

“The Victoria Beckham idea of beauty is pulled together with an easy attitude.

This simple half-ponytail is sophisticated yet simple, creating a modern feeling” GUIDO PALAU

MODERNIT Y

THE SHOW Victoria Beckham A/W15 THE TREND Some like it rough THE LEAD STYLIST Guido Palau ON THE CATWALK Remaining true to her understated style, Victoria Beckham’s collection featured a chic palette of tailored whites and creams, along with dramatic monochrome stripes, toughening up the collection. Guido created a simple, but modern look, raking the hair back into a ponytail with rough finger marks to complement the collection.

IN THE SALON This understated look carefully balances undone hair with very precise styling. To get it right for your clients,“combine great shine with a textured, undone finish”, says Richard Phillipart, owner of the Boutique Atelier in Ellesmere Port.

THE PRODUCTS BaByliss PRO Volare Dryer and BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Ultimate Styler.

TEXTURE

Bring the hair trends to your clients now with BaByliss PRO. For more information, visit babylisspro.co.uk.

For the latest news and updates, search @babylissprouk on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram

All photography by Jason Lloyd-Evans

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“T Bec bea tog eas Thi hal is s yet cre mo

N AT U R A LLY S H I N Y THE SHOW Emilia Wickstead A/W15 THE TREND Downtown goes uptown THE LEAD STYLIST Snowden Hill ON THE CATWALK Emilia Wickstead showcased an elegant retro collection in a palette of delicate colours from eggshell to eau de nil. To complement the clothes, Snowden created soft ponytails that had a slight downtown feel to them in contrast to Emilia’s ‘uptown’ collection.

IN THE SALON This is one of the most easily transferable trends of the season. “Ponytails are big news, but the main trend is this sleek and glossy finish,” says Darren Webster, co-owner of Webster Whiteman in London. “Hair is worn free at the fringe and loosely secured low on the nape.”

THE PRODUCTS: BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 25mm Curling Tong and BaByliss PRO Italia Brava Dryer.

GUIDO

U N D O N E FI N I S H

LOW P O N Y TA I L

“Emilia’s clothes are uptown New York classy, so we wanted to keep hair a bit more ‘downtown’ so the wearer looks cool” SNOWDEN HILL

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U LT R A- LO N G

“Simone is fantastic to work with as she researches in great depth – in this instance exploring textile fashions” JAMES PECIS

TEXTURE

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THE SHOW Simone Rocha A/W15 THE TREND Give us length THE LEAD STYLIST James Pecis ON THE CATWALK There was a romantic vampire feel to the hair for the Simone Rocha show, though more Tilda Swinton in Only Lovers Left Alive than Twilight.

James Pecis and his team created 24 inches of textured hair for each model that was then wrapped around the neck.

IN THE SALON Long hair is back for A/W15, says Nelson Brown, owner of Browns in Dumfries. He explains: “Make the most of long hair with a dishevelled ponytail. Layer texture creams and salt sprays onto dry hair roughly and unmethodically. Use the side placement of the ponytail to give the look an organised feel.”

THE PRODUCTS BaByliss PRO Italia Brava and BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 25mm Curling Tong.

M OV E M E N T

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Hot off the catwalk

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TEXTURE

the runway and Take A/W15 trends direct from Byliss PRO straight to your clients with Ba

THE SHOW Sibling A/W15 THE TREND Get punked THE LEAD STYLIST Syd Hayes ON THE CATWALK Syd created two looks to complement Sibling’s woman collection. He created the looks for 20 models in just two hours, using wigs and Mohawks with splashes of vibrant pink and neon orange.

IN THE SALON While we don’t expect your clients to suddenly start demanding Mohawks, the punk trend is back. Syd says: “The frizz may be too extreme for the salon, but I’m always experimenting with new textures and effects. If ‘80s crimp scares your clients, try waves instead. Brushed out they are soft and more elegant!”

THE PRODUCTS BaByliss PRO Italia Brava and BaByliss PRO Crimping Iron.

CRIMP

C O LO U R FL A S H

“There’s a real punk feel in the Sibling collection, so I was instantly drawn towards The Sex Pistols. This led to the creation of two fun hair looks” SYD HAYES

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#FutureTrends

The show DAKS The inspiration A late ’60s early ’70s feel – Mary Quant meets Mary Hopkins and the bell-bottomed ’70s.

The hair “I layered Windle & Moodie Foundation Spray with Fortifying Spray or Thickening Cream on finer hair. In a soft centre-parting, I blow-dried hair smooth but with volume at the roots and with a bend through the ends, with the use of a large round bristle brush.

I popped a few hair extensions on fine or layered hair to provide fullness and an all-one-length feel, for heaviness and weight around the front. I brushed the hair through with a bristled vent brush and allowed it to fall softly over the shoulders and around the front.

Hair fell close around the eyes when worn with a hat. I then misted with Light Satin Hairspray for shine and to control flyaways.”

The show Belstaff The inspiration A look back at the Belstaff women of the past, such as Amelia Earhart. Think women in a man’s world, on an epic adventure, androgynous but not tomboys.

The hair “I applied Windle & Moodie Foundation Spray thoroughly throughout, making sure to use the natural texture of the hair. Then I added Thickening Cream throughout, concentrating at the roots as well as mid-lengths and ends. I used a small amount of Texture Cream around the hairline to help keep the hair off the face then diffused naturally in sections starting at the nape and working forward to maintain natural movement in the hair. Once dry, I added Invisible Day and Night Cream the whole way through to add definition to the texture. To keep the shape, I misted Sculpture Hairspray.”

The show Angelo Marani The inspiration Sexy, Helmut Newton women, cinematographic, with curves and suspenders – modern day divas!

The hair “I layered Windle & Moodie Foundation Spray with Fortifying Spray and with a low side-parting, blow-dried the hair smooth with a large round brush to give volume. I sectioned the hair below the crown and applied Thickening Cream to roots along in small sections all the way to the front. Using a narrow toothcomb to smooth the hair out from the side-parting and slightly sweep the front across the forehead, I created a small fringe effect. I misted the hair with Sculpture Hairspray and kept all the edges of the hair flat to the head and diffused the hair. I then brushed smooth at the back and took a straight piece of card and lay it across the back of the head, spraying the remainder.”

A/W15 images courtesy of Windle & Moodie

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THE MOODIE REPORT Neil Moodie, backstage hero and co-founder of Windle & Moodie, talks us through his inspirations for the A/W15 catwalk

I’ve been completely engulfed in the ’70s for A/W15, but finding a new take on the decade. I’m trying not to make it look too retro. Jerry Hall, Mary Hopkin, Patti Smith and Farrah Fawcett all came to my mind, but I’ve calmed down the flicks, softened out the frizz and coloured the Purdey.

I was feeling ‘luxury or dishevellment’ (sounds like the name of an ’80s album!) for this season. Extremes. Everything’s been too nice and gentle for too long...

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A perfect match Looking to branch out into beauty? Find out why teaming up with HD Brows could be the start of a beautiful relationship

PUTTING ADDITIONAL SERVICES into your salon is a big deal, so we’re here to help. If you’re looking for an easy-to-introduce service that has a low-cost upfront payment, and complements your hair services, then HD Brows is for you. It’s the UK’s number one brow treatment and offers a unique and tailored technique as well as a luxury 81-piece cosmetics range, Make Up by HD Brows.

Mark Leeson, owner of Mark Leeson: Hair, Body and Mind salons, chose to introduce HD Brows and he hasn’t looked back. “It’s our most popular beauty treatment and even clients who never considered having brows done before are using our beauty services now,” said Mark. After an initial set-up cost, which included a place on an HD Brows training course, Mark saw a return on his investment after just two months. But if offering the whole HD Brows service isn’t what you want right now or you just want to boost your retail offering, then you can’t do much better than becoming a Make Up by HD Brows stockist. Salons can choose an HD Brows retail package to suit their size and needs:

THE MAKE UP BY HD BROWS BROW PACKAGE: Available to all HD Brows stylists to retail to their clients and contains the brand’s best brow products and a selection of high-performance, professional quality brushes.

THE FULL RETAIL PACKAGE: This is ideal for introducing the entire Make Up

by HD Brows collection to a salon and features a floor-standing display in the HD Brows signature boudoir-esque design, at least two of each make-up product and a free product training day to enable the salon team to learn Make Up by HD Brows application skills.

THE DELUXE RETAIL PACKAGE: The package that allows salons with a heavy retail focus to gain the best value for money and return on investment, containing at least three of each make-up product, two spaces on the HD Brows Product and Retailing Workshop, and the floor standing display.

Boost your business and become a Make Up by HD Brows stockist. For more information, call 0844 801 6812

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THE BRUSHES

THE NEW STATIC AND FRIZZ-FREE BRUSH RANGE FROM FUDGE PROFESSIONAL IS ALL YOU NEED TO CREATE SMOOTH, SILKY TRESSES WITH SHINE FOR YOUR CLIENTS. FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THEM BELOW…

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Fudge Professional CeramicTourmaline Barrelled Brushes

Available in four easy-to-use sizes (small, standard, medium and large), Fudge Professional high-performance, rubber-gripped brushes are the key to creating natural and bouncy tresses. The barrels heat up and retain their temperature as you style, while the negative ions on the bristles help to reduce static and lock in moisture and natural oils for silky smooth and static-free hair.

Fudge Professional Paddle Brushes

THE HIGH-PERFORMANCE rubbergripped paddle brush from Fudge Professional provides a flexible approach to creating head-turning poker-straight locks.

The unique teeth detangle and effortlessly glide through long and thick hair without causing damage, ensuring your client is always left with super-smooth hair.

*Excludes Clean Blonde Violet Shampoo

The products

AS ANY BUILDER will advise, you’ve got to have strong foundations, and it’s the same for a blow-dry. The Fudge Professional range of sulphate and paraben-free* shampoos and conditioners provide the best foundation you could possibly get for all hair types. Comprising seven key categories – colour protection, volume, smoothing, toning, taming, repairing and deep cleansing – the range delivers the foundations of fabulous hair for your clients.

It’s time to own the blow-dry with Fudge Professional. To get the Fudge Professional TRI-BLO in your salon, call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudge.com/professionals

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London Collections: Men Sibling S/S16

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DON’T BE SHY SO YOU OFFER A KICK-ASS BLOW-DRY SERVICE, BUT DO YOUR CLIENTS ACTUALLY KNOW ABOUT IT? HERE, THE PROS IN THE KNOW TELL US WHAT THEY’VE LEARNT ABOUT PROMOTING THE BLOW-DRY IN-SALON

MAKE A BIG DEAL OUT OF THE BLOW-DRY…

“We host our own blow-dry bar and have created a moodboard to offer inspirational ideas.”

NATALIE ALLEN, FUDGE PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR AND OWNER OF HARVEY LUKE SALON GROUP IN DERBY

MAKE IT AS CONVENIENT AS POSSIBLE…

“We promote our blow-dry as an express service. Clients can come in with their hair washed and we’ll apply the product for the desired look. It’s quick and very popular.”

REECE BULLMAN, FUDGE AMBASSADOR FROM CHOPP HAIR, LEIGH-ON-SEA

YOU SHOULD PROMOTE IT AS A STANDALONE TREATMENT…

“We have recognised that clients attending the salon each week just for a blow-dry will have a higher annual spend than a client just visiting every six weeks for a cut and finish.”

NATALIE ALLEN, FUDGE PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR AND OWNER OF HARVEY LUKE SALON GROUP IN DERBY

TO ACHIEVE PERFECTION, YOU NEED… London Collections: Men Sibling S/S16

“Fudge Professional Skyscraper. It’s the ultimate finishing blow-dry product. It delivers long-lasting results with a great shine to the finished look. Importantly, it’s easy to brush out when you want to change up a style.”

REECE BULLMAN, FUDGE AMBASSADOR FROM CHOPP HAIR, LEIGH-ON-SEA

OFFERING BLOW DRY-ONLY APPOINTMENTS IS GOOD BECAUSE…

“People like to use a blow-dry as a trial before they commit to a full cut or colouring service.”

NATALIE ALLEN, FUDGE PROFESSIONAL AMBASSADOR AND OWNER OF HARVEY LUKE SALON GROUP IN DERBY

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John Vial at London Collections: Men Sibling S/S16 London Collections: Men Sibling S/S16

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The master

John Vial, creative director at Fudge Professional, reveals his top tips to achieving the perfect blow-dry CH: How important is the ability to perfect the blow-dry in the salon?

JV: It’s everything. It has to be dried thoroughly from root to tip. If the hair is damp, it will lose volume and if the hair is naturally wavy and isn’t fully dry when your client leaves the salon, the humidity will shrink their hair back into waves.

CH: What products do you use when blow-drying?

JV: The new Fudge Professional TRI-BLO is my favourite blow-drying tool. It does the three things you need when drying the hair: it protects, it gives a sense of hold and it adds shine.

London Collections: Men Sibling S/S16

CH: What brushes would you suggest for blow-drying?

JV: We’re actually just launching new Fudge Professional brushes to complement the new Fudge TRI-BLO, so I’ve been testing lots of brushes to ensure we have the kit-bag essentials for hairdressers.

The barrel brushes are ideal for creating a bouncy blow-dry.

CH: What is a client looking for in a blow-dry?

JV: Longevity is number one, but volume is important, too. Even if your client has their hair dried straight, they don’t want to leave with lank hair – you can create a little root lift but still have a straight style. And last but not least, they want to leave with hair that feels product-free and natural.

CH: What hints and tips do you give your clients for them to be able to create the perfect blow-dry at home?

JV: Protection, protection, protection. Clients shouldn’t hold the dryer too close to their hair – you wouldn’t do it with your skin so you shouldn’t do it with your hair.

CH: What will be the key blow-dry looks this season?

JV: It will be a reaction against over-styled hair. This isn’t an unfinished look, but the hair will be dried in an erratic bend so it has a slightly distressed feel.

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London Collections: Men Sibling S/S16

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Bow to the blow-dry

Fudge Professional reveals how you can turn the humble blow-dry into one of your greatest assets with a little help from its TRI-BLO spray and brushes

THE BLOW-DRY: it does so much more than dry your clients’ hair.

It makes clients’ cuts and colour, come alive; it can put a skip in a client’s step, their hair swishing behind them, as they leave the salon: and it can increase your clientele, revenue and retail all in one go.

Here, Fudge Professional has given us the lowdown on everything you need to make sure you’re all over the blowdry this season…

A must-have

Admit it; clients are a lazy lot, always looking for hair and beauty shortcuts. So if you offer a multipurpose product that does everything they need in one go and prolongs their blow-dry, they’re going to take it, right? This is why you’ve got to get the new TRI-BLO spray by Fudge Professional into your salon right now. The multipurpose blow-dry spray is designed to prime, protect and add shine – all in one go. But that’s not all. Containing Invisi-shield technology, the spray also provides a heat and humidity-resistant shield, defending against heat damage, while ensuring your clients’ style lasts.

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“

The best thing about Direct

colours are their versatility and ease to apply. You can use them directly on the hair (no developer required), mix them together to create your own bespoke look, or mix the colours with a RUSK conditioner to

”

create softer pastel tones.

Katie Mulcahy, Rusk UK Colour Ambassador

A bold palette of vibrant shades.

Get creative with these incredible intermixable colours.

• Apply directly from tube, no developer required • Use with Deepshine Hydrate Conditioner to create pastel shades • Lasts up to 20 shampoos • Ammonia-free

Available exclusively at

®

BAB00146_DeepshineDirect_285x220_AW.indd 1

For further information visit

www.salon-services.com

18/06/2015 14:31

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#FutureTrends ART CLASS

Okay – so not necessarily a look for the every day, but there was no ignoring the beautiful use of colour in the hair this season: down the parting, as styled by TIGI’s Thomas Osborn at Libertine; lilac fringes at Ashish, by Ali Pirzadeh for L’Oréal Professionnel; or wild punk cuts as seen at Sibling

by Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO. The best way to recreate the trend? Buy a clip-on version – it’s colour without commitment.

Ashish Libertine

Jacob Birge Vision

Mara Hoffman

BRAID TO ORDER

Image courtesy of Aveda, BaByliss PRO Bumble and bumble, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Redken, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

The braid of the season? The ‘multi-braid’. A look that incorporates not three but five strands to make for a wider, flatter style. Efi Davies, Toni&Guy international artistic director in residence at Jacob Birge Vision, as well as TIGI’s Thomas Osborn at Mara Hoffman got the memo. Have you?

Sass & Bide

Sibling

Paul Costelloe

OH, BEEHIVE

The ’60s made an emergence in spectacular fashion for A/W15 making appearance in the form of beehives at Paul Costelloe, Badgley Mischka and PPQ. The sky is the limit… so get backcombing!

Badgley Mischka

FAIRY DUST

There is something a little special about Toni&Guy’s Resurrection Style Dust, as seen here being used backstage at Sass & Bide by global creative director, Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck. Dust, ruffle and voilà! Trussed up, textured style in an instant.

PPQ

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#FutureTrends

RE:CRE ATE

DE TAILS, DE TAILS, DE TAILS. BE INSPIRED BY THE NUANCES OF THIS SE ASON AS WE TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE HAIR OFFERINGS FOR A / W15

Fyodor Golan

Prada

Prada

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana

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ACCESSORISE THIS

MY

Want a new season update without investing in a whole new outfit? Hair accessories are the way forward. Take the beautiful metallic slides as styled

by Ali Pirzadeh for Bumble and bumble at Fyodor Golan, for example – impactful, but so easy to apply.

Guido Palau, Redken’s global style ambassador, elevated his beautiful up-dos at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana with ornate jewels. Or look to what is in your wardrobe already and style the modest Kirby grip in a modern fashion, as Moroccanoil’s artistic director, Antonio Corral Calero, did at Cushnie et Ochs. Get a grip on this trend, pronto.

Haider Ackermann

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HAIR HABERDASHERY

For a more organic alternative to the modern-day hair accessory, why not look to a simple needle and thread to adorn hair. Try looping brightly coloured cotton around the base of a ponytail, equestrianstyle, as Maria Galati, international artistic director for Toni&Guy did at Judy Wu. Or for something a little more intricate, look to Haider Ackermann for inspiration, where Aveda guest artist, Kamo, created this ‘soft punk’ style by threading some intricate needlework through the hair.

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#FutureTrends Alberta Ferretti Images courtesy of Aveda, BaByliss PRO, Bumble and bumble, Davines, KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel Moroccanoil, Redken, Schwarzkopf Professional, TIGI, Toni&Guy, Unite and Wella Professionals

Hugo Boss

THE OCCIPITAL BONE. A hairdressing term if ever there was one (we defy anyone not in the hair industry to be able to immediately identify where this little nook of the neck is), it was also one of the focal points for hairstylists this season. Buns, ponytails, chignons – you name it, it was placed right in there in the crevice of the neck. Slung low with a sleek and shiny finish, the ponytails at Hugo Boss and Alberta Ferretti, both by Guido for Redken, were relaxed in style with a loose-fitting hair tie almost falling out, while the styles at 1205 by Angelo Seminara for Davines and H by Hakaan Yildirim by Johnny Engstrom for L’Oréal Professionnel, were tied firm and tight for a more powerful take on the trend. Then there was the roughed up variety, tied deep into the occipital bone, with more of a deconstructed texture, as seen at Rejina Pyo by David Wadlow for Bumble and bumble, at Naadam by Allen Ruiz for Aveda, as well as at Éthologie by Easton Regal for Schwarzkopf Professional. Speaking backstage at Naadam, Allen Ruiz impressed the importance of the position of the ponytails stuffed into oversized roll-necks – they’re what makes her look “effortlessly chic”. So whether you wear it glossy or grungy, the message is simple: swing low, sweet bun/chignon/ponytail. Coming forth to carry me to A/W15.

Erdem

Rejina Pyo

1205

Zaynap Kartal

Amanda Wakeley

Faustine Steinmetz

H by Hakaan Yildrim Naadam

AS SEEN AT: 1205 Alberta Ferretti Amanda Wakeley Erdem Éthologie Faustine Steinmetz H by Hakaan Yildrim Hugo Boss Jean-Pierre Braganza Naadam Rejina Pyo Simone Rocha Zaynep Kartal

Jean-Pierre Braganza

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#FutureTrends

Esteban Cortazar Palmer Harding Iris Van Heroen 3.1 Philip Lim

THE TITLE OF THE ICONIC Alexander McQueen exhibition that has come from New York’s Met to London’s Victoria & Albert, ‘Savage Beauty’ is now the most befitting phrase for one of the strongest trends of the season. In the same way that the designer Lee McQueen had a fascination with uncovering beauty in the natural world, these looks centered around weathered, windswept, almost ‘swampy’ hair, providing a wild backdrop to the fashion on the catwalks. Hair was loaded with product, slightly surreal and a little strange to look at, as this trend celebrated the imperfections in beauty. Take for example the ‘crown of thorns’, as created

by Stephen Low for L’Oréal Professionnel backstage at Palmer Harding, or the ‘gothic twisted plaits’ at Giles by Toni&Guy’s Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck. At Iris Van Herpen, TIGI’s Maria Kovacs formed tight, slicked-back twirls that “had a twist of futuristic beauty, inspired by science and nature”. Look to the work of hair maestro Guido Palau, who in fact curated the mannequins’ headpieces for the McQueen exhibition as well as the hair backstage at Alexander Wang for Redken. “It’s rock and roll,” he says, “but in a much darker, more gothic way.” A true encapsulation of a cultural moment, this might not be one for drinks after work, but simply sit back and admire. There can be beauty in strangeness – that is the theatre of fashion, after all.

AS SEEN AT:

Just Cavalli

Alexander Wang

Jamie Wei Huang

MSGM

Giles

Esteban Cortazar

Missoni

Paul Smith 3.1 Philip Lim Alexander Wang Creatures of the Wind Esteban Cortazar Giles Gyunel Iris Van Herpen Jamie Wei Huang Just Cavalli Lucas Nascimeinto Missoni MSGM Palmer Harding Paul Smith 29

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#FutureTrends Temperley London

Peter Pilotto

Thomas Tait

Jenny Packham Emilia Wickstead

Costume National

Karen Walker

David Koma

Topshop Unique

SOFT AND WISPY CANDYFLOSS HAIR is the texture du jour for the new season. With hints of the Pre-Raphaelites (see the beautifully tousled, auburn hair at Karen Walker by Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble, at Thomas Tait by Sam Burnett for KMS California and at Jenny Packham by Kevin Ryan for Unite) and the use of the ‘demi-tonging’ technique (as loved by the L’Oréal Professionnel set of Luke Hersheson at Michael Van der Hamm and Anthony Turner at Peter Pilotto), this is a hairstyle that can jump straight off the runway and into reality, for the simple fact that it is just so wearable. It works because the key is to just slightly enhance hair’s natural texture without looking too ‘done’.

Working with BaByliss PRO backstage at Emilia Wickstead, Snowden Hill created soft and elegant ponytails that were “downtown chic to Emilia’s uptown collection”, while at Simone Rocha, James Pecis, also for BaByliss PRO, tied wool-spun textured hair into more whimsical, cascading creations. Backstage at Blumarine, Wella Professionals’ Eugene Souleiman mused that the romantic and feminine look he created was “a style that comes alive in real life as it responds well to movement”. Imagine, if you will, hair as a fabric for this trend: tease it, ever so slightly distress it, but be sure to maintain its good quality and ensure the right levels of sophistication. Note to self: get the fashion item of the season to match – a floor-skimming, billowing maxi dress.

Barbara Bui Simone Rocha Barbara Casasola

AS SEEN AT:

Kristian Aadnevik

Barbara Bui Barbara Casasola Blumarine Calvin Klein Costume National David Koma Emilia Wickstead Jenny Packham Karen Walker Kristian Aadnevik Michael Van Der Hamm Peter Pilotto Simone Rocha Temperley London Thomas Tait Topshop Unique

Calvin Klein

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BEST IN SHOW THIS IS WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT – THE TRENDS THAT WILL BE DIFFUSING INTO STREET STYLE AND SALONS ALIKE FOR THE A/W15 SEASON. LET’S TAKE A CLOSER LOOK…

S O F T LY D O E S I T

Blumarine

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#FutureTrends

“Dividing the hair into two sections, I took the back section and created two separate twists and allowed them to sit together to create the ponytail”

“Echoes of the embroidery and intricate design of the collection are reflected in the decorative crystal hair slide securing and sweeping the fringe into place”

“It’s always fantastic working with Bora, he knows what he wants but is open to ideas”

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“The inspiration for the show stems from the songbird in Oscar Wilde’s The Nightingale and the Rose, exploring the idea of sacrifice in the pursuit of love”

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“The hair portrays a soft, innocent style combined with the dark side of the collection, which is represented by the shorter, more structured side of the hair”

THE SHOW: BORA AKSU THE LE AD: SAM BURNET T, KMS CALIFORNIA AMBASSADOR

“I prepped hair by spraying KMS California ADDVOLUME styling foam to the roots, then FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing spray all over the hair, parting it low on the right side of the face, above the ear”

“The silhouettes are lean and rich, showing definition and femininity, both in strength and finesse, which is reflected in the flowing, natural waves of the side ponytail”

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#FutureTrends

“I prepped the hair with KMS California HAIRPLAY sea salt spray, coating each section and focusing primarily on the mid-lengths and ends. I then roughly blow-dried the hair”

“I combed hair back to allow it to fall freely and form a natural parting.

To enhance its sheen and control flyaways, I applied HAIRSTAY anti-humidity seal all over”

“Run your fingers through the hair to emphasise the natural wave and create movement for a lived-in look.

I finished with FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing spray to secure”

“While the look has elements of lived-in texture it still maintains natural shine and an aspirational quality”

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How Hair Happens We go behind the scenes at London Fashion Week with Sam Burnett for KMS California “It’s been fantastic to work with Thomas Tait, he has a clear creative vision”

“The collection is modern and engineered – with an almost extra-terrestrial feel”

THE SHOW: THOMAS TAIT THE LE AD: SAM BURNET T, KMS CALIFORNIA AMBASSADOR

“I wanted to create free, moveable hair that’s nearly undone; exposing the hair’s natural beauty and movement” 22

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12/08/2015 10:33

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Beautiful, Fashionable, Confidence-Boosting Hair www.headmasters.com

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#FutureTrends

Roksanda Ilincic

STAY WARM THIS SEASON

Faux or real, keep warm by supersizing furry coats and accessories. From the gilets at House of Holland to the stoles at Roksanda Ilincic, the options abound.

Bora Aksu

WORK IT FOR THE CAMERA Issey Miyake Images courtesy of CND Shellac, ImageNet, KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

Swish the dress - it makes for a prettier picture. The girls backstage at Issey Miyake know where it’s at.

KNOW YOUR HASHTAGS

The team at KMS California know how to get the most out of social media backstage with this handy board. Know your hashtags for fashion week!

?

STILL WANT MORE

WATCH IT! See the star session stylists in action now! Go to creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie

Runway looks, campaigns, front covers - the UK’s coolest talents translated hair’s hottest looks at the first Coterie: In Session event.

Watch all the action with our exclusive videos, and follow the step-by-steps to create session-savvy hair. With fashion and celebrity hair stylist Claire Rothstein and backstage regular Jonathan De Francesco on hand, what more could you ask for?

Visit creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie now!

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12/08/2015 10:35

W E’R E NOT JUST E X PER T S AT BROW S

NOW AVA I L A BLE TO R E TA I L I N YOU R S A L ON Stock the capsule collection of 80 brow, eye, skin and lip essentials. Contact us to arrange your personal Salon Team visit today.

084 4 801 30 63 | hdbrows.com

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12/08/2015 10:35

#FutureTrends

BLUE STEEL

Valentino

Nothing could have been more of a surprise on the catwalk than Derek and Hansel from Zoolander closing Valentino’s show in Paris to rapturous applause. There is talk that the footage will appear in Zoolander 2 – watch this space.

P A T R I O T I C PE RFECTI ON

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh flew the flag by emblazoning the St George’s Cross on models’ faces.

Giles

KEEPING UP You can’t escape them -from the Kanye West x Adidas Originals show in New York that featured Kendall and Kylie on the catwalk (as well as the rest of the gang in the front row), to Kendall backstage at LFW (seen here at Giles), the KardashianJenner troupe are officially everywhere.

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12/08/2015 10:36

USE YOUR HEADTM HEALTHY HAIR BEGINS WHEN IT’S FREE FROM STRESS, COME CLEAN WITH O&M

HAIRCARE & STYLING PRODUCTS BY O&M

We’ve thought hard for hair and developed a haircare and styling range to suit every hair type. Leaving out harsh chemicals including Parabens, MIT and Triclosan, we’ve replaced them with natural native actives from O&M’s birthplace of Australia. Sourced from diverse geographical locations from the desert to the ocean, these Australian native actives deliver many benefits while nourishing and protecting the hair. /Bespoke-Hair-Care @BespokeHairUK

For more info or to arrange a salon visit contact info@bespokehaircare.co.uk

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#FutureTrends

Libertine

SHOW NOTES SURVIVING

FASHION MONTH REQUIRES STRENGTH A N D STA M I N A , BUT THERE ARE A LWAYS A FE W M O M EN TS T H AT MAKE IT ALL THE MORE FUN. HERE,

EGIN LET THE SHOWS B

If you’re going to work it on the catwalk, you might as well have fun doing it. Make like the girls at Libertine and wave your hands in the air like you just don’t care.

WORK THE NAIL ART TREND

These models have nailed it, have you?

JESSICA DINER SHARES HER NOTES… The Blonds 16

O&M-

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Fashion Week essentials

Clients love to bring a touch of the fashion world into their look, whether that’s through their clothes, their make-up or their hair. With the Catwalk by TIGI x House of Holland wash bag, you’re one step closer to offering your clients fashion-worthy hair, but what if you could offer them the products behind the hair, too? Catwalk by TIGI was used backstage at House of Holland A/W15 and is designed to style and finish the hair to reflect your clients’ personal fashion look.

Create trend-led styles for your stylish clients with Catwalk by TIGI. For more information, call 0844 844 0944 or visit catwalkbytigi.com

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House of Holland

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Fancy a bit of Holland in your salon?

Up your salon’s fashion credentials this season and offer a limited edition Catwalk by TIGI x House of Holland wash bag OF ALL THE PATTERNS and prints that graced the catwalks this A/W15, House of Holland’s take on the houndstooth print was one of our favourites. And we weren’t the only ones; the TIGI Session Team got to see the print up-close and personal when they went backstage to style the hair for House of Holland’s A/W15 show and knew the brand had to get a piece of it. Henry Holland was more than happy to collaborate with the team – and the pink houndstooth (which featured in Henry Holland’s Uptown Urchins’ collection) wash bag is the thrilling result. The exclusive giftwith-purchase wash bag is now available for you to get in your salons, ready to be snapped up by eager fashionistas with the purchase of any two Catwalk by TIGI products.

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12/08/2015 10:39

GLORIOUS CURLS FOR YOUR CLIENTS ARE MOMENTS AWAY, THANKS TO CATWALK

BY TIGI…

WORK IT HAIRSPRAY CURLS ROCK AMPLIFIER STRONG HOLD MOUSSE HAIRISTA

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12/08/2015 10:39

Ready-to-wear hair Create laidback and on-trend styles effortlessly with Catwalk by TIGI – for hair that clients love to wear

This season, use the Catwalk by TIGI range as your style springboard, with products backstage-tested by the TIGI Session Team. Taking inspiration from the world of fashion, Catwalk by TIGI gives you the products you need to adapt your clients’ hairstyles to work with the latest trends. It’s not time-consuming haute-couture hair, it’s effortless and it’s ready to wear.

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12/08/2015 16:59

TREND #3: ECCENTRIC ELEGANCE This season, Vivienne Westwood transformed girls with traditional, tailored elegance and a touch of eccentricity. A mix of plaid, tweed and clashing prints bring unexpected combinations, as seen at Prada, Miu Miu and House of Holland.

THE HAIR: Whether or not hair is tucked into a scarf or is an up-do, add lived-in volume by spritzing Catwalk by TIGI Root Boost Spray to create root lift, or use Bodifying Spray to add texture.

TREND #4: ETERNAL HIPPIE

The ’70s has been a major player in trends already this year, but now it turns more towards the free-wheeling hippies with added luxury, as seen at Libertine, Valentino and Matthew Williamson. Matte clashing paisley prints, thick fur and flowing feminine tailoring bring an elegant movement to this chic and expensive look.

THE HAIR: Partings are hot this season and a brilliant way to change up your client’s look. From the tuxedo partings to the sexy, swiped over fringes, you choose how you style them. Or draw attention to the parting in the best possible way with a coloured line going straight down it. Spritz Catwalk by TIGI Bodifying Spray from mid-lengths to ends to add lightweight body and use Camera Ready to create detailing.

Libertine

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13/08/2015 14:31

TREND #1: METALLIC WARRIOR

Fashion goes Mad Max this season, with the metallic warrior trend taking over the A/W15 catwalks. As seen at Armani, Givenchy and Iris Van Herpen to name just a few, this trend oozes expensive goth with an edge of texture.

THE HAIR: Whether you want to interpret the look in a pared-back version or fully embrace the wet look, the hair is full of shine and well defined. Prep the hair with Catwalk by TIGI Strong Hold Mousse and add definition and hold with Firm Hold Hairspray.

Iris Van Herpen

#BehindTheCatwalk Take your cues from the catwalks and be inspired by TIGI’s four A/W15 key trends, created by the TIGI International Creative Team, as Catwalk by TIGI celebrated its 160th show and 16th season backstage at all four Fashion Weeks TREND #2: WINTER NOMAD

Versatile and wearable, the winter nomad trend, as seen at Burberry, Topshop Unique and Mara Hoffman, is going to have a heavy influence on high street fashion this season.

We can expect feathers, faux furs, wool and leather to feature, bringing to life the earthy, warm luxury of a Scandinavian winter.

Mara Hoffman

THE HAIR: Hair is freshly washed with dual texture and loose styling, sometimes casually tucked into outerwear or knitwear to look as though the hair is blending into the fabric. The perennial braid also features heavily, taking cues from traditional ethnic styles and is tousled for a lived-in finish.

Create winter wind-swept volume with Catwalk by TIGI Root Boost Spray or touchable, soft, texturised locks with Salt Spray.

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12/08/2015 10:40

TREND #1: METALLIC WARRIOR

Fashion goes Mad Max this season, with the metallic warrior trend taking over the A/W15 catwalks. As seen at Armani, Givenchy and Iris van Herpen to name just a few, this trend oozes expensive goth with an edge of texture.

THE HAIR: Whether you want to interpret the look in a pared-back version or fully embrace the wet look, the hair is full of shine and well defined. Prep the hair with Catwalk by TIGI Strong Hold Mousse and add definition and hold with Firm Hold Hairspray.

Iris van Herpen

#BehindTheCatwalk Take your cues from the catwalks and be inspired by TIGI’s four A/W15 key trends, created by the TIGI International Creative Team, as Catwalk by TIGI celebrated its 160th show and 16th season backstage at all four Fashion Weeks TREND #2: WINTER NOMAD

Versatile and wearable, the winter nomad trend, as seen at Burberry, Topshop Unique and Mara Hoffman, is going to have a heavy influence on high street fashion this season.

We can expect feathers, faux furs, wool and leather to feature, bringing to life the earthy, warm luxury of a Scandinavian winter.

Mara Hoffman

THE HAIR: Hair is freshly washed with dual texture and loose styling, sometimes casually tucked into outerwear or knitwear to look as though the hair is blending into the fabric. The perennial braid also features heavily, taking cues from traditional ethnic styles and is tousled for a lived-in finish.

Create winter wind-swept volume with Catwalk by TIGI Root Boost Spray or touchable, soft, texturised locks with Salt Spray.

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12/08/2015 10:41

Images courtesy of BaByliss PRO, HD Brows, Moroccanoil, TIGI and Wella Professionals

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THE SUPER: ZAC POSEN

THERE’S GLAMOUR – and then there’s glamazon. And at Zac Posen this season, there was some serious glamazon factor in the form of Naomi Campbell strutting her stuff down the catwalk in a ruby red gown.

All made to perfection, the elegant gowns and power dresses showed off the female form with beautiful silhouettes and structured tailoring. Odile Gilbert for Moroccanoil created a style that epitomised the “controlled glamour” of the collection: modern and masculine from the front with feminine and chic, waves at the back. Apart from Naomi, who wore her hair in her usual supermodel way. Well – she is Naomi after all.

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THE BOY WONDER: HOUSE OF HOLLAND

SO HOW IS THIS FOR COOL? A conveyor belt instead of a catwalk: easy for the models and easy for the editors, who are able to get their Instagram shots as the models glide past them at the perfect pace. There is no denying that Henry has one of the most playful imaginations on the LFW schedule. And what of the clothes? The theme was a tongue-in-cheek ‘trustafarians meet street urchins’, just the scruffy side of chic that his designs known for. “Henry’s girl is natural, cool and polished but tough,” explains TIGI European session director, Maria Kovacs, who led the backstage hair team. “Her clean hair look combines smooth roots with textured lengths.”

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T H E I N N OVATO R: SHRIMPS

WHO KNEW OUTERWEAR and some killer accessories could be enough for a full fashion show presentation to get everyone talking? That is the power of Shrimps. This new season collection had a very particular woman in mind – a disco diva who finds herself transported to the Emerald City in The Wizard of Oz. From the oversized coats and glittery set to the tumbling retro waves and long glossy red fingernails, the collection fit the brief perfectly. The girl is “Angie Bowie meets cool London on an astral adventure”, explains head HD Brows make-up artist Lauren Parsons, who pulled the whole look together with vinyl-slicked red lips.

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THE LFW DARLING: SIMONE ROCHA

AH, SIMONE ROCHA. She can do no wrong.

This girl knocks it out the park every time.

And A/W15 was no different. Inspired by the Tudor and Victorian eras – and the rich tapestries that came out of these periods of history, her vision played out by an abundance of lace, brocade, floral appliques and bustled silohuettes. So who was the beauty reference for Simone’s girl this season? Period drama babe Tilda Swinton in Only Lovers Left Alive, a film charting a love story that spans several centuries. Working with BaByliss PRO, hair stylist James Pecis used hair almost as if it were a length of fabric. He wrapped swathes of hair around the girls’ necks and then let the lengths hang down into long cascading textured ponytails.

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13/08/2015 14:29

1

THE NEWBIE: MSGM

YOU HEARD IT HERE FIRST: MSGM is a name to remember. This previously littleknown Italian brand is positioning itself to become a major Fashion Week player. The brainchild of designer Massimo Giorgetti, it’s the workwear wardrobe for a woman who still wants to make a statement. For A/W15, Massimo played with oversized pussy-bow ties on dresses, turned-up polo necks, ’60s shift dresses and large, chunky knits. With so much attention to detail, Wella creative director, Eugene Souleiman, put the hair up.

But in the hair supremo’s typical style, it was an up-do with a twist. He swept hair into a low side-parting, constructed messily over the forehead, before securing into a low pony.

The famous five From showstoppers to hot-steppers, the top five shows of the season were a combination of the old and the new – and with some epic shows in between. Birchbox editorial director, Jessica Diner, selects her edit 05

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12/08/2015 10:43

more than just hair care

Breast Cancer affects millions of families each year.

Wet Brush速 is proud to support Breast Cancer research charities with a 20% donation from profits.

BEAUTIFUL STARTS HERE. prowetbrush.com

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12/08/2015 11:39

TERIE /THECO AG.COM33 HEADM 9 REATIVE K 01434 610 O NLINE C BOOK O CALL TO BO

GIRLS! HERE COME THE

SALON, FASHION, MUSIC, CELEBRITY – HEAR FROM THE INDUSTRY’S FIERCEST FEMALE TALENTS, EACH WITH HER OWN DISCIPLINE – ALL FLYING THE FLAG FOR WOMEN IN BRITISH HAIRDRESSING

Panel members include Anna Cofone, Johanna Cree Brown, Tracie Cant, Anna Chapman, Katya Davies and Kerri Ewart

MONDAY 19 OCTOBER 2015 7PM UNTIL 10PM ONE ALFRED PLACE, LONDON

TICKETS £25 EACH

Includes drinks and canapés and a free gift from HD Brows Coterie members go free

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Let clients fall in love with Kerasilk from Goldwell Because smooth, shiny hair never goes out of style

It’s smooth sailing with Kerasilk by Goldwell. To find out more, call 01323 432100 or visit goldwell.com

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“WHAT I LOVE MOST ABOUT THE NEW KERASILK IN-SALON SERVICE IS THE APPRECIATION OF MY CLIENTS!” MARK LEESON, GLOBAL CREATIVE AMBASSADOR FOR GOLDWELL

“WE’RE IMMENSELY PROUD TO PRESENT KERASILK. THIS DEDICATED, PREMIUM HAIRCARE IS AN AMAZING BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY” CORY COUTS, GLOBAL PRESIDENT OF KAO SALON DIVISION

“THE NEW KERASILK SERVICES ARE TRULY LUXURIOUS AND PROVIDE BEAUTIFUL RESULTS THAT LAST – SEEING IS BELIEVING!” INDIA FLAHERTY, EDUCATOR, KAO SALON DIVISION

12/08/2015 11:45

PROTECT YOURSELF Moisturise and protect your clients’ colour for up to six weeks* with Kerasilk Color

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

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l Actively interacts with the hair’s structure and keeps beautifully coloured hair brilliant shiny with Keratin and tamanu oil. l This in-salon service deeply moisturises and protects clients’ colour results for up to six weeks.* *In combination with the Color Finishing Cream Serum

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12/08/2015 11:45

TAKE BACK THE POWER Give limp, fine hair a new lease of life with Kerasilk Power Volume and Anti-Hairloss l Power Volume actively interacts with the hair’s structure to strengthen and increase the body and volume of fine and limp hair with Keratin and Elastin.The invigorating in-salon service makes hair feel and look fuller for up to 10 washes.* l Anti-Hairloss strengthens hair and increases its density. *In combination with the Repower Intensive Volume Treatment

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12/08/2015 11:40

CARE AND REPAIR Kerasilk Recontruct will transform dry, damaged hair into a healthy-looking mane for up to 10 washes* l Actively interacts with the hair’s structure, nourishes and reconstructs stressed and damaged hair with Keratin and Hyaloveil – the secret behind skincare science. l The indulgent in-salon service repairs and softens hair for up to 10 washes.* *In combination with the Reconstruct Intensive Repair Treatment

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12/08/2015 11:41

IN CONTROL Tame wild, unmanageable hair into smooth, soft locks for up to five months* with Kerasilk Control l Thermal-activated KeraShape Technology actively interacts with the hair’s structure, reshapes and smoothes unmanageable and frizzy hair. l The high-performing in-salon service reduces waves and enhances smoothness for up to five months.* *In combination with the Control Kerasilk Treatment

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13/08/2015 10:24

We’ve seen the future… …And it’s looking smooth, thanks to the five new Kerasilk in-salon services by Goldwell While hair trends move with the seasons, the one thing clients will always want is smooth, shiny hair with bucket-loads of body. Clients tell you this everyday. But you know that achieving it and making it last outside of the salon can be harder than it seems. Goldwell’s Kerasilk range is already changing the way stylists manage clients’ hair and its five new in-salon services will mean no matter what type of hair your client has, super-smooth locks are just one service away. Find out how you can future-proof your client’s hair today, with Goldwell’s five new Kerasilk in-salon services.

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In print•online•everywhere! £4.50 SEPTEMBER 2015

Let’s move forward The future starts here