Creative HEAD UK October 2022

£4.50 OCTOBER 2022

In print•online•everywhere!

T I B A S ’ T I …

L A N O I T N E V N O C UN IKE IT L E W W O H S ’ T A H …BUT T

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CHOOSE YOUR We want what we want. From the precision and luxury of Savile Row tailoring through to the proto-punks ripping and pinning bin bags to twist them into their own creations, customisation empowers us to express all facets and angles of our individuality and identity. It puts creativity in your hands to express yourself how you want to.

To celebrate the UK launch of CustomFX, the range of BaByliss PRO hero tools that can now be customised to your personal taste and signature style, grooming genius and BaByliss PRO ambassador Jody Taylor partnered with Creative HEAD to share a platform of self-expression.

Joined by a hand-picked team to help bring his artistry to life – Nick Barford, Charlie Cullen, Tariq Howes, and Alfie Charles Vincent – alongside precisely cast models, Jody interpreted the brief of customised creativity and nurtured a setting where everyone was empowered to create with freedom, encouraged to deliver their own individual take on unconventional beauty. No gender lines, no conforming restraints.

This is a concept of embracing your individuality, of daring to find your rebellious streak. To create something true to you, empowered by tools that perform, that deliver, and that now reflect your own signature style.

Be who you are, stay true to yourself. You CAN go your own way…

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OWN ADVENTURE HAIR Jody Taylor, with Nick Barford, Charlie Cullen, Tariq Howes, and Alfie Charles Vincent, for BaByliss PRO PHOTOGRAPHY Salim Adam at A&R Creative DIGITAL AND LIGHTING Luke Weller VIDEOGRAPHY Albert Graver REPORTAGE PHOTOGRAPHY Harvey Williams-Fairley MAKE-UP Alice Dodds STYLING Olivia Harding MODELS Elenie Mae, Eulogio, Martin at Anti-Agency; Sam at AMCK; Jarryd at Autumn Jensen Casting PRODUCTION The Creative HEAD Creative Partnerships Team EDITORIAL Amanda Nottage SOCIAL MEDIA Kelsey Dring IN PARTNERSHIP WITH BaByliss PRO SHOT AT Big Sky Studios

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“I DON’T BUY TRAINERS OFF THE SHELF ANYMORE, I BUY TRAINERS THAT ARE HARD TO GET. I’LL QUEUE UP FOR DOUBLE THE PRICE, BECAUSE I WANT THE ONES THAT ARE UNIQUE, THE ONES THAT YOU CAN’T GET. THE THOUGHT OF BEING ABLE TO DESIGN MY OWN CLIPPER, LIKE THE TRAINERS I’VE WORN ON THIS SHOOT, THAT’S WHAT I WANT. THE FEELING THAT I CAN GO AND PICK THE COLOURS AND HAVE MY OWN IDENTITY, MY NAME ENGRAVED ON IT… IT’S SO RELEVANT FOR TODAY. WE DON’T WANT TO HAVE THE SAME AS EVERYONE ELSE.” JODY TAYLOR

Welcome to the world as seen by Jody Taylor: imperfection is perfection, where history helps him tell new stories. Capturing a spirit of restlessness and rebellion, he channels the inspiration and energy seen from his work for labels such as Vetements, Fred Perry, JORDANLUCA and Bretton Woods to showcase an authentic arena of self-expression, interpreting the hair concepts and their specific references from a brief curated by Creative HEAD – to illustrate the creativity and possibility behind new CustomFX from BaByliss PRO. This runs through every element of the shoot.

The block colours of the set and the wardrobe?

They mirror the colour customisation at your fingertips. The models? They are not your expected by-the-numbers examples of physical excellence. Each one has a story and attitude that seeps from them. Fluid, free, following their own bliss – encouraging you to follow their lead and do the same…

And the hair from Jody and his team? We’re here for it, illustrating just what the hero range of CustomFX Cordless Clipper, CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer and CustomFX Foil Shaver can do. Precise clipper work, fading, shaving, trimming, etching… technique and creativity in unison, delivering a take unique to this moment, and to this project.

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This collection is a showcase of co-creativity, delivering something that is recognisably now and refreshingly individual. Forget trends; fashion is being driven by the unconventional, the rare, the signature, the personal.

This is the new revolution. In a world that’s busy, and cluttered, ensure you cut through the noise by being YOU. Jody’s vision? Taking punk culture and mixing that with the rude boy of today. “If you’re a punk today, you’re not going to be a punk like you’d have seen in the ’70s. You’re going to be completely different. So, for me, it’s the two styles combined,” he explains. “It’s this combination of attitude, that you’re rebelling against society, you’re running against the politicians of the day and everything that’s going on in the world.”

But there’s more freedom, more open minds, and that’s where Jody’s concept has evolved. “The casting was the most important thing, finding people who can tell this story themselves through their look. This is how they live. It needs to feel authentic, it needs to be relevant.”

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Jody embraced an existing uneven undercut, working with it by cutting in a fringe. “He’s got a really cool look, a really good attitude about himself.

He’s an interesting character, gold teeth, but he’s gonna have quite feminine hair. It’s that juxtaposition, hair and style that I’m interested in.”

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JODY TAYLOR

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“UNCONVENTIONAL BEAUTY IS JUST ABOUT CONFIDENCE, HOW YOU CARRY YOURSELF. BEAUTY IS DIFFERENT TO EVERYONE. I FIND IT BORING IF SOMEONE’S PERFECT. IT’S ALL ABOUT CELEBRATING YOUR OWN SELF, BEING ABLE TO LOVE YOUR OWN NUANCES.”

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Known for his love of longer men’s hair, Charlie Cullen’s current obsession is the mullet… and here Jody let him do this thing.

Never dated, always fresh, Charlie’s working with a raw foundation, making it more narrow so that it’s bordering on a Mohawk vibe.

You’ll see soft edges (the CustomFX Cordless Clipper is spot on for removing bulk), super-flat to the head and reversed, so that these little soft sideburns are left. It’s not perfect, there are no sharp outlines; it’s more about raw ruggedness, creating an irregular fringe as a playful frame using the little corners of the CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer and a razor.

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One head; two artists. In a perfect showcase of creative expression and total freedom, Jody handed over a model to team mates Nick Barford and Tariq Howes, each taking on a side of a Mohawked Elo. Yes, there might have been a bit of friendly competition (“My main focus is to make sure it’s better than Tariq’s side,” grinned Nick), but there was also the opportunity to put their stamp on their side, while working in unison.

“We’ve got these almost-reverse fades; fading down and then fading up. It’s just a little thing to play on because we like these edges, they kind of have this Chelsea girl or suedehead vibe about them,” explains Jody. “Let’s leave them and see if it works. It’s about being individual with the model. They all have a vibe; let’s take it up a level.”

On Tariq’s side, he got a zero line thanks to the CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer, fading upwards and then back down to the perimeter. He’s had a little play around with the length on the edges, working on any little imperfections, making it look cleaner.

Nick’s working with the same reverse fade, using both the CustomFX Cordless Clipper and the CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer. To make it a bit brighter? He loves the CustomFX Foil Shaver for that. The edges are soft but a little bit uneven too, keeping some texture.

There’s a line using the CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer, super-sharp and super-clean.

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W O N R E H T E G O ALL T TAKES ON REBELLION AND AL ON RS PE R EI TH NG RI VE LI MEET THE TEAM DE LISS PRO RED BY CUSTOMFX FROM BABY WE PO , TY AU BE AL ON TI EN NV UNCO

JODY TAYLOR

@jodytaylorhair A TRIPLE MOST WANTED MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST WINNER AND FASHION WEEK FAVOURITE, JODY IS WIDELY ADORED FOR HIS FRESH TAKE ON MEN’S HAIR, NAMECHECKED ON THE REGULAR BY BARBERS AND STYLISTS ON THE RISE… WHAT’S YOUR CUSTOMFX? “My first lot have a black shell with a bit of gunmetal grey and all of the details are rose gold.

Very classy. But now I’m thinking my next set I’ll make Tottenham Hotspur colours – blue, white and yellow! The pink and the black ” ones on set look wicked though…

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INCREDIBLE HULK? DONATELLO FROM TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA TURTLES? THE JOKER? WHATEVER IT SAYS TO YOU…

CHARLIE CULLEN

@charlieculleneducation DIRECTOR AT JOE & CO, FREELANCE EDUCATOR AND ART ORATOR AND FRIEND OF SOHO, AND A LONG-TIME COLLAB ERENCE IS HIS OBSESSION JODY, CHARLIE’S POINT OF DIFF STORIES BEHIND IT, WHICH WITH MEN’S LONG HAIR AND THE PERSONAL TRAINING HE NOW SHARES THROUGH HIS WHAT’S YOUR CUSTOMFX? tapering on the power switch “I went for all black with the green have some bright colours and logo. I initially thought I should n’s my favourite colour. but usually I just wear all black. Gree And I have my name engraved, too.”

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TARIQ HOWES

@tariqhowes

TARIQ IS AN EDUCATOR, OWNER OF AVENUE MALE GROOMING IN CARDIFF AND A MASTER OF TEXTURE. HE’S WORKED ON SHOOTS FOR TITLES SUCH AS GQ STYLE AND DSECTION, AND BACKSTAGE AT LONDON FASHIO N WEEK FOR LABELS SUCH AS A-COLD-WALL, DANIEL FLETCHER AND PER GÖTESSON WHAT’S YOUR CUSTOMFX? “My favourite colour is purple. My brand and my shop are purple, so I’ve gone with a black and purple mix. I’m a big fan of Prince, I grew up listening to him, so the whole purple vibe has always been my inspiration.

“Branding is big, and people are building personal brands to be taken more seriously. Now you can match your tools with your brand, which is amazing, or as a matter of personal taste. You are expressing yourself in the colours, in your style.

I’ve got my name engraved on mine, just to let everyone know this clipper is mine!”

NICK BARFORD

@nickbarford

“IT MEANS ‘NAKED’ IN JAPANESE”, EXPLAINS NICK OF HIS NUDO HOME IN EAST LONDON, A SPACE FOR CLIENTS, WORKSHOPS AND ONE-TO-ONE EDUCATION. HE’S AN EDUCATOR AND FILM PHOTOGRAPHER TO BOOT. WHAT’S YOUR CUSTOMFX? “I went for pink and blue, based on NUDO’s branding. It’s both a clash of genders and about bringing things together.

“CustomFX helps me represent my personal brand. You can express yourself more to your clients and wherever you are – on a photoshoot or fashion show.”

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@alfiecharlesvincent

RS WORKING HAVING SPENT THE PAST SIX YEA LONDON, ACH BLE HIS WAY UP THE RANKS AT CAN HE T THA SO HE’S NOW INDEPENDENT S. HE CUT Z BUZ ING OUR CONCENTRATE ON COL NG LISI CIA SPE CK TRU D FOO A ALSO CO-OWNS F! IN SURF & TUR PAINT US A PICTURE, ALFIE… bleaching these “Slow and low, as well you know, urs to pop. Some colo buzz cuts. We really want the s, greens, pink in ard freehand animal print, leop e dots pop. I thos of t mos e mak purples, then black to I always make sure, love doing freehand animal print. different variation every time I’ve done it, it’s been a of stencilling of colours. I’m excited about the idea , cutting it too, with a little wink to BaByliss PRO that looks how down to ‘Bliss’, because I just like and sounds. me, which I love.

“This feels like a Joker colour sche k inspiration pun the into falls I think that very much e along com that res ultu subc of s and the variation pretty comfortable with that. It just seems to fit. I feel within that world.”

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ALFIE CHARLES VINCENT

WHAT’S YOUR CUSTOMFX? looks for today. I “It’s heavily inspired by one of the . I think it takes ther toge n gree love putting pink and Joker as a the and an Batm of me back to my love ys a bit more child. The villain side of things is alwa work well together interesting, isn’t it? Those colours out at you.” on the hair anyway. They really pop

FOR LOADS MORE, HEAD TO CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM NOW, AND FOLLOW @CREATIVEHEADMAG ON INSTAGRAM TO SEE THE IMAGERY BROUGHT TO LIFE

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IA L CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR

THE PERFECT COMPOSITION

YOUR WORK SAYS SO MUCH ABOUT YOU, YOUR CREATIVITY, YOUR EYE AS AN ARTIST… WHAT DO YOUR TOOLS SAY ABOUT YOU? LET THEM SAY SO MUCH MORE ABOUT YOUR STYLE WITH NEW CUSTOMFX FROM BABYLISS PRO BaByliss PRO CustomFX offers you total customisation of three hero tools, giving you countless possibilities to take creativity into your own hands like never before…

From shiny bright metallics to cool pops of neon, you can fuse the shades you feel best reflect who you are, what you do and how you do it. Personalise classic BaByliss PRO engineering and performance on the CustomFX Cordless Clipper, CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer and CustomFX Foil Shaver. Each tool is made up from different customisable parts, available in 10 different colours. We’re talking millions of possible combinations, allowing you to add a stamp of true individuality to your kit. There’s even the choice of complimentary personal engraving on each tool, exclusive in the UK. As well as having full aesthetic control, you can select your own blade type for the CustomFX Cordless Clipper and the CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer, to completely suit your needs, including the must-have new Black Graphite Fade Blade. Stamp your signature on your kit now:

STEP ONE

Visit babylisspro.co.uk and select which tool you’d like to customise. Choose from the iconic CustomFX Cordless Clipper, CustomFX Cordless Skeleton Trimmer or CustomFX Foil Shaver.

STEP TWO

Choose from 10 different colours for each component to create your design. Select from black, white, gun metal, gold, rose gold, green, red, blue, purple and pink.

STEP THREE

Add your own personal complimentary engraving to your kit, choosing from five different scaleable fonts.

STEP FOUR

Share your creation using @babylissprouk on your social posts for a chance to be featured on the BaByliss PRO UK Instagram feed.

What will your CustomFX tools say about you?

WORK YOUR WAY, CREATE YOUR OWN HEROES WITH CUSTOMFX FROM BABYLISSPRO. VISIT BABYLISSPRO.CO.UK FOR MORE DETAILS AND TO START YOUR OWN CUSTOMFX DESIGNS

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20/09/2022 10:00

ribe c s b u /s m o .c g a creativeheadm

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AND RECEIVE A SELECTION OF COLOR EXCEL AND COLOR EXCEL GLOSS SHADES BY REVLONISSIMO FROM REVLON PROFESSIONAL, WORTH

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YOU’LL GET • 10 issues of Creative HEAD

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• Exclusive ticket prices for Creative HEAD events**

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The first 20 new Creative HEAD Club members will receive the new shades from the Color Excel and Color Excel Gloss collection, plus two developers.

With innovative colour technology, Revlonissimo from Revlon Professional offers permanent colours with and without ammonia, and demi-permanent options with alkaline or acid technology, treating hair while colouring, without compromise on performance or results.

Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something for you too!

One lucky member will a bumper kit, featuring all the new Color Excel and Color Excel Gloss shades, two developers and a Magnet bonding kit, all worth £245.

For more information visit revlonprofessional.com.

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*For the first 20 new members to sign up between 1 October and 31 October 2022. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only, for more details contact events@alfol.co.uk

CLUB

20/09/2022 10:01

Treatwell PRO not just a marketplace A new all-in-one salon management software that focuses on what matters – full scale organisation for your business.

From allowing you to manage all your admin, data, insights and marketing along with providing you a steady stream of new clients via the Marketplace.

Find out how it works

EDITOR’S LETTER 82

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VOGUE MIGHT HAVE the September issue, but for Creative HEAD it’s all about October! It’s always an absolute belter thanks to the Most Wanted and It List Awards Grand Final souvenir supplement, which you’ll find free with this issue. Inside, we celebrate the magnificence of the stars of this industry and their achievements, at a venue that was authentically jaw-dropping (thank you Tate Modern!).

I’m not sure there’s anything as inspirational as seeing what hard work, passion, artistry and innovation can accomplish. Congratulations to everyone. You also can’t miss our cover shoot with Most Wanted winner (and 2023 Legend) Jody Taylor, capturing his love of authenticity with his handpicked team, in partnership with BaByliss PRO. And we sat down once more to ask salon employers, employees and freelancers about their current experience of working in hairdressing and barbering for our On The Floor report, in association with Timely. This issue helps crystallise so many key elements to this industry right now; the challenges but also the opportunities to get creative, to build businesses that matter, and to celebrate each other.

Amanda Nottage Editorial director

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

JOIN US!

The MWIT magic is over for another year, but we’ve got plenty more for you – starting with The Coterie: In Session on 17 October in Manchester.

See Jody Taylor, Tariq Howes, Carlo Avena and Louis Byrne style up a storm, see page 58.

Then, on 7 November, Salon Smart is making its way to Dublin for a motivational day designed to re-energise business in body and mind.

Discover more on page 52.

And can we tempt you to take five to watch the latest in the Spotlight series? Trevor Sorbie’s Nathan Walker and Giuseppe Stelitano talk creation and commercialisation – head to page 56. Finally, don’t forget to check out the latest Salon Smart HUB drop – you can catch up on the exclusive Future of Work programme, see page 54. creativeheadmag.com/events

@creativeheadmag

20/09/2022 10:02

Designed for curls, this masque instantly transforms from a rich creme texture into liquid butter. It deeply penetrates to prevent split ends for revived, soft hair with lush, hydrated, bouncy curls.

THE CULTURE OF HAIRDRESSING FORMULATED WITHOUT PARABENS + MINERAL OIL AND PETROLATUM + SULFATES (SLS OR SLES) VEGAN, CRUELTY + GLUTEN FREE + COLOUR-SAFE.

@xpert_professional @randco_uki www.xpertprofessional.co.uk TO BECOME A STOCKIST CONTACT XPERT PROFESSIONAL TODAY.

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October

WHAT’S INSIDE

OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

SYD HAYES, Q CUT

MARK MACIVER, SLIDERCUTS

SUBRINA KIDD

MURRAY MCRAE, STAG

ON THE COVER

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Hair by Jody Taylor, with Nick Barford, Charlie Cullen, Tariq Howes, and Alfie Charles Vincent for BaByliss PRO. Photography

by Salim Adam

THE SKINIFICATION OF HAIR Skincare ingredients are having a moment – in haircare. Find out how to master the trend

KEITH MELLEN & ANNE VECK

SHARON ROBINSON

THE MAESTRO

HARRIET STOKES, HUMANKIND HAIR

EDITORAL DIRECTOR

KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL

We talk to Jody Taylor about a rollercoaster year in fashion

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ASSISTANT

ART DIRECTOR

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER

KELSEY DRING

JENNY BROOKS

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

BRAND MANAGER

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR DEBORAH MURTHA NICK JABBAL ADAM WOOD

EVA VESTMANN

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AOIFE CONNELL

NAOMI SCROGGINS LAURA TUCKER

NATASHA PEARS

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

FREE WITH THIS ISSUE! Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks.

Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

20/09/2022 14:11

VISIT DIVA AT SALON INTERNATIONAL '22 STAND W120

NEW SUPER LUXE RECYCLED METAL STORAGE TIN & Additional Colour Sleeves Available Separately

divapro.co.uk

IN THE KNOW A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS

ENERGY PRICE FREEZE FOR BUSINESSES

The new Prime Minister, Liz Truss, has revealed there will be a freeze on the energy price cap for businesses from 1 October.

While households will enjoy a cap of £2,500 a year, businesses will see “equivalent support over the winter” as part of a six-month scheme. The government has stated there will be a review in three months, after which it will provide “ongoing, focused support for vulnerable industries”.

The news comes as more than half (54 per cent) of small and medium business owners say rising fuel and energy costs are one of their greatest concerns, with 36 per cent pointing to tax and National Insurance hikes.

A survey of more than 1,000 UK small businesses from Simply Business found that 70 per cent of SMEs saw rising costs across the board are their biggest challenge this year. Nearly half (49 per cent) intend to increase their prices to offset increased expenditure. About 87 per cent of small business owners lost an average of £20,981 over the past two years. Yet there’s still positivity from them, with 71 per cent very confident about their business prospects.

See page 24 for more information

LEGENDS MADE AT MOST WANTED

THE MOST WANTED and It List Awards Grand Final 2022 saw four winners scoop a third win in their categories, meaning they become Most Wanted Legends in 2023. Held at Tate Modern and hosted by comedian Suzi Ruffell, the Grand Final revealed Mark Woolley (Business Thinker), Jody Taylor (Men’s Hair Specialist), Anna Cofone (Independent Stylist) and Eugene Souleiman (Hair Icon) securing legendary status. It was also a huge night for Dublin’s Danielle Garner, who won the It List Entrepreneur and One to Watch trophies as well as Most Wanted Best Client Experience for her Wildflower salon. Want to see more of the winners? It’s all in our 2022 Most Wanted and It List Awards Grand Final souvenir supplement, free with this issue.

BOOK IT! POWERED BY PULP RIOT

CHRISTABEL LEGRAND, Heff y Wheeler and Pedro Plastic are among the names delivering a day of creative inspiration as Powered by Pulp Riot returns. Learn the insider secrets from artists including Emma Graves, Federico Damiani, Laura May Stevens and Verity Waite as they share tips, tricks and techniques using the full Pulp Riot line up. This free online live event is open to any colourist looking to learn unique formulas to deliver the wow factor, and to push themselves creatively.

DATE 23 October FOLLOW @pulpriot.uk on Instagram for details

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 10:03

Lou is Byrne

Ca rlo Avena

Campaign launches in memory of Chris Williams

Ta riq Howes

Jody Taylor Everybody’s talking about…

The Coterie: In Session Heading to Manchester for the first time, The Coterie: In Session will be delivering an unforgettable night of live hair work, on-set for one night only.

King of men’s hair editorials – and newly-crowned Most Wanted Men’s Hair Specialist 2022 – Jody Taylor will be joined by burgeoning session superstar Carlo Avena. Texture expert and barber, Tariq Howes, is hitting the set too alongside session and celebrity stylist Louis Byrne. It’s quite the squad, and the Elle-ectrifying host for the evening is George Driver, the digital beauty editor at Elle. George will be quizzing the artists throughout to ensure guests go home armed with backstage tips, on-set techniques, and loads of inspiration. It’s all happening at fivefourstudios on Monday 17 October, and there’s a generous gift from event sponsor, BaByliss PRO, to boot. Tickets available at creativeheadmag.com/store

CREATIVE HEAD

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CATCH-UP

Andrew Barton is now UK creative ambassador for Keune, which has also appointed Jo McKay as master colour ambassador and JR Slane as Bloom London’s creative director, the salon that will sit inside the new House of Keune in the capital.

ON THE FIRST anniversary of his death, a campaign has been created in the memory of colourist Chris Williams to raise awareness of and funds for bowel cancer research. The Chris Williams Campaign in support of Bowel Cancer UK is supported by ambassador Trevor Sorbie MBE, a survivor of bowel cancer, and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. It has been set up by Chris’s wife, Sophie Williams, who wanted to do something positive in his memory. “So many people have reached out to me that I thought together we can be a strong voice to raise awareness,” she said. See more at chriswilliamscampaign.muchloved.com

Matt Horder is the new general manager for UK and Ireland at Revlon Professional.

Lawrence Taylor is the new head of education for extensions brand Racoon International.

Treatwell is merging with Southern European salon app Uala, under the Treatwell name.

Avlon is partnering with Enact Equality to support the launch of a survey to inform new national guidance against Afro hair discrimination in the UK.

The predominant noise in a salon is probably that of the hairdryers, but plenty will also like to have a bit of music playing to add to their ambience. Yet as any salon owner will know, it’s not as simple as plugging in your phone and hitting play on your Spotify. You need a licence to avoid getting into trouble. A new alternative for salons, digital streaming service Rehegoo is offering tunes at a decent price.

It features music made by its own in-house team as well as the next generation of global artists.

Price from £9.99+VAT. Rehegoo.com

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20/09/2022 10:04

d water Don’t get mad about har t even ge es, nd dulling your blo ning -To Pre e nd with Clean Blo nal. sio fes Pro ge Fud Primer, from en twe be her res ref ct A perfe salon appointments…

Newly revamped Kérastase FusioDose delivers a personalised, on-the-spot treatment that targets two hair concerns for a wider range of hair types and textures. Thanks to six concentrés and five boosters, there are 30 possible combinations to choose from, and in refreshed packing, too.

In-salon service kerastase.co.uk

RRP £16

fudgeprofessional.com

Designed for curls, R+Co’s Cassette is a transformer. Press play and it morphs from a rich cream to a liquid butter, helping to prevent split ends and bring back the bounce.

RRP £35

xpertprofessional.co.uk

Slim in size, big in impact, new ultra-thin Tapes SLIM from Great Lengths are 0.55mm thick – half the size of classic GL tapes – for precise placement and ultra-subtle application, and available in more than 90 shades.

In-salon service greatlengths.com/uk

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Indola’s vegan free-from line ACT NOW! has three new essentials: Color Spray Conditioner that’s rich in soy amino acids, quick-drying Non-Aerosol Fixation Spray, and lightweight Volume Mousse.

RRP from £6.95

capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

New to the Acidic Bonding Concentrate range comes the Intensive Pre-Treatment, with Redken’s highest level of citric acid and bonding care complex to repair hair’s strength from the inside out.

RRP £21.50

lorealpartnershop.com/uk

CREATIVE HEAD

14/09/2022 10:35

STOCK IT!

LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES

Looking for a little something for brides and Christmas retail?

Well, Sharon Malcolm, founder of Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing in Belfast, has created the Cha Cha Clip, an accessory made from real hair that’s available in eight colours.

RRP £25

chachahairproducts.com

Maintain cool blonde tones both in the salon and at home with five new launches from Schwarzkopf Professional’s repair line Fibre Clinix. In-salon purple and blue boosters help neutralise, while Purple Shampoo and Heat Protection Mist keep up the hard work at home.

RRP from £18.75 schwarzkopfpro.com

Need a new brush? If you plump for one of the 1,000 bespoke hot pink Tangle Tamer Ultra D90Ls from Denman, you can also support The Hair & Beauty Charity.

SALON PRICE £15 hairandbeautycharity.org

Love to customise your kicks? Wel l, how about tailoring your tools to best represent you with CustomFX from BaByliss PRO. You can choo se from the Cordless Clipper, Cordless Skeleton Trimmer and Foil Shaver, and then select from 10 different colours for each component to create your unique design. You can even add your own personal engraving for free.

Get more from JOICO LumiShine this season, with Natural Natural Warm and Natural Natural Warm Copper new to the Youthlock line-up. LUMI10 has new shades in its NG and NV series, delivering 100 per cent grey coverage in just 10 minutes!

In-salon service joico.eu

RRP from £200 babylisspro.co.uk

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20/09/2022 10:05

COLOUR VISION

CHANGE IS IN THE AIR! WHAT ARE YOU PUTTING IN PLACE FOR THE UPCOMING SEASON? FROM PREPPING YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS EDUCATION TO CHRISTMAS PLANNING, THERE’S SO MUCH TO GET EXCITED ABOUT IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SET YOUR GOALS WELLA MASTER COLOUR PROGRAMME PLACES STILL AVAILABLE FOR OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER!

Invest for success in 2023 by joining the Wella Master Colour Programme, ideal for taking your colour business to the next level.

This is for elite colourists, so ensure you’re ready by booking onto the prerequisite courses before you begin the colour journey of your life.

You’ll need to have attended the Colour Craft Essential, Colour Craft Correction, Colour Craft Highlights and Colour Genius courses. There are package options available at a discounted rate, and courses are running throughout November and December.

For more information and Wella Master Colour Programme dates, contact your nearest Wella Studio or visit wella.co.uk/educationbook

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

ENGE AND HOW EVERY ISSUE WE SPEAK TO A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT ABOUT A KEY CHALL DANNACOBELLA), TO OVERCOME IT. JORDANNA COBELLA, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF COBELLA LONDON (@JOR E EXPLAINS HOW TO DRIVE CLIENTS TO BOOK CHRISTMAS APPOINTMENTS WELL IN ADVANC “Getting your Christmas appointments streamlined now is so crucial. We tell our clients that we’re already getting booked up ahead of Christmas, regardless of how true that is. It really does prompt them to get those bookings in. This helps with our diary planning – because obviously each client’s hair will require different amounts of time depending on their needs.

By booking everything in advance we can elongate appointments where necessary, too.

“The other thing we try to do is get the big colour work out of the way well before those last few weeks in December, so that by the time we hit Christmas it’s all about topping up and refreshing – we don’t want anything that might take seven hours at that point! Refresher appointments are much more lucrative.

“The last thing we do is look at any excess stock and create promos around it – at Cobella London we’ll be offering Shinefinity clear glaze packages to tap into current trends and also sustainably help us with stock.”

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20/09/2022 10:44

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

SHELFIE TIME The new shades of Koleston Perfect are here right on time for the upcoming season. They are just what we need to create bespoke, bitter chocolate tones with a hint of butterscotch. This season’s forecast is all about cool brunettes with depth, with the ultra-glossy shine we know and love from Wella Professionals”

AMY BEJAOUI, WELLA PROFESSIONALS TECHNICAL EDUCATOR @AMYB_HAIRLDN

FORMULA FOR SUCCESS ROBERT EATON (@ROBERTJEATON)

What I love about this look is the strong shape, it’s something that could work for so many different clients and different hair textures. The polished finish is perfect for autumn, using Shinefinity for the ideal cool, Signature Natural look. The hidden panels shimmer as the hair moves, exposing the navy-inspired Koleston Perfect mix that has exceptional stability and long-lasting results.”

GET THE TONE Shinefinity 04/12 and Koleston Perfect 9/81 + 7/18 + 0/88

NO MATTER WHAT YOU’RE FACED WITH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS THE SUPPORT, EDUCATION AND PRODUCTS TO EQUIP YOU WITH CAREER-MAKING CONFIDENCE. DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HOW WELLA PROFESSIONALS CAN SUPPORT YOU ON YOUR JOURNEY AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM @WellaHairUKI #WellaColour #CountOnWella WellaUKI CREATIVE HEAD

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14/09/2022 12:21

CREDITS : Hair: Robert Eaton , Wella Profe s s i ona ls U K& I C re ati ve Te chni ca l Di re ctor | Pro d uc t i o n: Fond ne s s Di re c to r : Da nny Me n d oz a - Ha l l Ph oto graph er: Ben Ottewell D O P: Au re li a B e rgs | Make up : Lu cy Flowe r | St yl i ng: C la re Fr i th | Po st p ro d u c t i o n : Rit a Co n ry

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LEFT PAGE

30/08/2022 11:14

Colle c tion

By Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK&I Creative Technical Director

Discover new shades for exciting NATURAL LOOKING results tailored to every woman

5/18

6/91

07/36

Scan to learn more about this service @WellaHairUKI #WellaColour | uk.wella.professionalstore.com

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30/08/2022 11:14

THE PLACES

NEW SPACES, FRESH LOOKS AND LOCATIONS TO HELP YOU WORK BETTER 4T4, EXETER @SALON4T4

Salons are becoming so much more than purveyors of stunning hair, and this venture from Luka Chitty and Pulp Riot Artist Christabel Legrand is a case in point. The pair were keen to create a fusion between their two realms of hairdressing and barbering, along with other local businesses. They’ve teamed up with Taco Cartel for barista coffee and treats – all included in the service cost for clients – as well as extras such as authentic Mexican street food they can order to their station. Another collaborator is Pink Moon, an event space in Exeter, and there are plans to hold industry and networking events. The idea was to maximise the crossover of trade between them all.

“We wanted the space to be completely inclusive, a safe space, gender neutral with our pricing, forward thinking and an experience-based venue,” says Christabel. When designing the interior, the duo channelled a Barcelona vibe, alongside their love of art, music, and tattoos. “We also wanted to support others wherever we could. The walls of the salon display artwork which is for sale, with all proceeds going directly to the local artists.” All completed in one month at a cost of £26,000, self-funded. Totally worth it.

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14/09/2022 10:37

BEBOP, LONDON

@BEBOPLDN This smiley, happy salon has moved to a larger location, featuring oodles of plants, a wall of projected visuals and a bit of art to boot.

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HARI’S HAIRDRESSERS, BATTERSEA

@HARISHAIR Bottle green tiles, a moss wall, pop-up residencies from London brands and an eclectic mix of bespoke fixtures make this latest Hari’s outpost a pleasure.

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14/09/2022 10:37

THE FACES THE PEOPLE IN ACTION

What would Craig Chapman do?

Pushed to exhaustion balancing his session career with his busy salon, the Cornwall-based stylist had to make a big change I OPENED Craig Chapman Hair Design in the Cornish market town of Launceston 28 years ago, and grew my team to more than 40 at some points, with talented and wonderful stylists. Over the past 15 years I’ve also been lucky enough to travel the world to attend to celebrities, work on TV shows or educate with brands, so up until March 2020, life was pretty busy! While the various lockdowns and stop/starts of business were difficult, nothing was as hard as December 2021. Over the course of three weeks, the whole salon team bar three were hit with Covid. With the Christmas rush back to post-pandemic days, we were on our knees trying to cover everyone else’s clients and it wasn’t until January that I realised I was completely burnt out.

A crossroads appeared. I absolutely loved my work, but I just didn’t feel I had the energy to run the business as it was. I decided to close the salon as everyone knew it. I knew I could afford the salon on my own and looked at rebuilding it from there. The conversation with the team was tough, emotional and definitely a bit of a shock, but when I suggested that anyone who wanted to could stay on as a freelancer, they all leapt at the chance… and HUBcornwall was born.

Alongside those who have become members of HUB, we have a make-up artist, a wellbeing expert, pop-up shops and art exhibitions. Anyone who wants to use the space pays a membership fee, and the rest is theirs. As a business owner I don’t know why I didn’t think of this years ago, but working at Electric Space and chatting to Lacey Hunter-Felton from The Hunter Collective inspired me, giving me the knowledge and experience I needed to take the plunge. @hubcornwall

WHAT MADE ME GEORGIA FREEMAN Q Cut Hair & Beauty @freemangeorgia

I had trained all my life to be a musical theatre performer and then a few years ago I suddenly became unwell. I was diagnosed with a functional movement disorder and couldn’t perform anymore.

I was absolutely gutted.

Coming out of lots of physical therapy, I decided to become a make-up artist.

However, during my time styling brides, doing their hair and make-up, I found my

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passion was in the artistry of hair.

I retrained at college and found Q Cut once I graduated. Q Cut has a special place in my heart and Syd Hayes, my boss, has given me some amazing opportunities. I’ve worked with some of the most inspiring hairstylists in the industry, such as Josh Wood, Paula McCash, Jody Taylor, and I have also worked alongside Robert Eaton and Daniel Couch. I believe now that my illness was the best thing to happen to me; I have found a passion for a career I love.

I’ve made it my number one priority also to make a change in the industry where I believe it’s needed – from creating a small business using only recycled materials, to showcasing natural textured hair and starting a charity focusing on refugees.

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14/09/2022 11:27

24/7

A DAY OF WORK/LIFE BALANCE FOR CELEBRITY STYLIST MICHELLE SULTAN @HAIRBYMICHELLE SULTAN

I GET UP AT… Now that depends on what’s going on that day. My life can be so sporadic with timings but generally I like to be up by 6AM to 6.30AM. MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… Lots of black, although I love clothes and did make a promise not to wear black all the time to work. I love dressing up and wearing sequins.

Bright colours make me happy!

MY DAY CONSISTS OF… Werk, werk, werk, and being a mum, daughter and friend.

MY DAILY FUEL IS… Water! I wish I liked coffee but I’m not grown up enough!

WHEN I GET STRESSED I… Try not to get stressed! It only ages you. If it’s work related, I just think ‘I’m not saving lives here’. If something goes marginally wrong there’s always a way out.

WHEN I GET STUCK I… ask a colleague or phone a friend!

THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Getting over my imposter syndrome.

Every now and again I remind myself of who I am!

THE MISTAKE I LEARNT THE MOST FROM… Not trusting my instincts when it came to doing a service on a client.

MY JOB ENTAILS… Anything from brand ambassador work with BaByliss PRO and Imbue, which can involve talking to press, product testing, and shooting content, to actually doing hair in-salon and for my celebrity clients.

THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… “Don’t be a hairdresser… what do you wanna do that for?”

MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE… Quite organised, believe it or not!

I GOT HERE BY… Making a pledge not to say no. Even if something made me feel nervous, I made sure to say yes to jobs, as there is so much growth in conquering something!

MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… Shoe shopping. I’m always on a quest to find the perfect work shoe.

I DECOMPRESS BY… Finding balance in life. My balance is spending time with my family and friends.

MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… The BaByliss 9000 Cordless Waver.

SEE

MICHELLE'S PLAYLIST AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM Instagram I’m a hairdresser, I’m visual! There’s now a wealth of knowledge on techniques and different ways to try new things.

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Spotify I love music and I’m always making playlists! I’ve just made one for the perfect wash day.

Netfl ix Not at the start of the day but I’m always trying to keep up with shows everyone is talking about.

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20/09/2022 10:07

Johannes Pleino for Unsplash

NEW NHBF SCHOOL OPENS

THE NHBF HAS teamed up with Pivot Point Lab to create a school aimed at helping those running a hair or beauty salon or barber shop and give owners and managers the chance to concentrate on building their client base.

The NHBF School has developed quick and easy guidelines and lessons to help business owners and managers navigate their day-to-day work and ensure they have all they need to manage their business along the lines of the NHBF Professional Code of Conduct. These include: Understanding qualifications and training requirements.

Clarity on health and safety guidelines.

Understanding consultation, allergy alerts and industry tests.

The content also includes videos, podcasts, webinars on the latest business topics, indepth guidelines, toolkits, and factsheets all included in NHBF memberships.

Visit the Skills Zone at nhbf.co.uk.

• • •

Top 2022 Influencers set to be revealed The names on the NHBF Hair & Beauty Industry – Top 100 Influencers Index will be unveiled from 7 November, with the winner announced on 13 November. The Index’s mission is to recognise those who influence, educate and innovate through social media channels. Visit nhbf.co.uk/top-100-influencers

NOTESPAPER : PAPE£20RAND WARNING £50 D’S ENGLAN

THE BANK OF BE LEGAL TENDER BANKNOTES WILL NO LONGER NOTES STILL IN OLD ANY AS OF THIS OCTOBER. FOR MODERN GED HAN EXC BE CAN ON CIRCULATI EVEN AFTER KS BAN UK ST POLYMER ONES IN MO THE DEADLINE.

LIMITED ENERGY FREEZE FOR BUSINESSES Prime Minister Liz Truss has revealed a plan that will see businesses receive a six-month price freeze on the energy pricing cap.

She also announced that domestic energy costs will be capped for two years at about £2,500 as part of a package to relieve the cost-of-living crisis, while businesses such as hair and beauty salons will see ‘equivalent support’ that will last for six months. A review in three months will decide which sectors should receive ongoing help. The ‘two-year energy price guarantee’ will take the place of the Ofgem pricing cap. From 1 October, a typical UK household will spend no more than £2,500 a year in bill payments.

Responding to the government announcement of the guarantee for families and businesses, Richard Lambert, NHBF chief executive, said: “We’re pleased that the government has responded to our call for emergency energy support for hair and beauty businesses over the next six months. Businesses now urgently need clarity on the details of the scheme to help them to plan.

“For most hair and beauty businesses, energy is one of the two biggest overheads, so we will be pressing the government to consider hair and beauty as one of the ‘vulnerable industries’ that will be in most need of support after the initial six-month period.”

NHBF calls on new PM for support THE NHBF HAS called on Prime Minister Liz Truss to provide a series of actions giving immediate support to hair, beauty and barber shop businesses to help alleviate what NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert describes as a ‘cost of doing business’ crisis.

Alongside rocketing energy prices, he pointed to supply price inflation at higher levels, increases to staff costs and concerns over skills and recruitment.

In a letter sent to the Prime Minister, the NHBF requested the

introduction of a small business energy price cap with grant support, ahead of Truss revealing plans to freeze the energy price cap (see above). It also requested: The reintroduction of 100 per cent business rates relief.

Targeted apprenticeship incentives for small and micro-employers.

Restraint on increases to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage.

A more fair tax system and a crackdown on tax-evasion in salon businesses.

• • • •

To find out more information and how to join the NHBF, call 01234 831 965 or visit nhbf.co.uk 24

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20/09/2022 11:22

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

Anil Salhan, BLACC+BLOND, Birmingham

NO-SHOWS? NO MORE

RUNNING A BUSINESS FOCUSED ON SELF-CARE IS FULFILLING, BUT NO-SHOWS AND CANCELLATIONS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A BIG CHALLENGE. FRESHA IS HERE TO MAKE NO-SHOWS A THING OF THE PAST No-shows happen for a number of reasons, from the serious to the banal. But crucially, they all result in lost time and money that can seriously stack up.

So, how can you tackle the issue of missed appointments? With Fresha’s client notifications feature you can send out up to three reminders for a single appointment via email and text. And the best thing? They’re automated, so you can set them up when the appointment is made and never have to worry. Fresha brings you one step closer to making forgotten bookings a thing of the past.

SECURED PAYMENTS Online bookings are now a breeze with Fresha, however your clients’ commitment can still vary. We all know that a booking isn’t always enough to ensure they show up, but requesting a deposit and setting a fair cancellation policy is proven to increase attendance. You can get 89 per cent fewer no-shows when clients confirm appointments with their card using Fresha’s payment feature.

With Fresha’s payment feature you can collect deposits for your clients’ bookings, so you still get paid for any time lost if they cancel and you can’t refill the slot.

Enforcing a cancellation policy also means your clients must secure their appointments with a payment card. This means you can set and charge a fee if they cancel late or don’t arrive. You

can adjust your deposit level whenever you like and set different amounts for different services.

Anil Salhan, founder of BLACC+BLOND in Birmingham, knows first-hand how cancelled appointments can pose a big issue for salons. He now uses Fresha to implement a cancellation policy: allowing clients to cancel without a fee being charged up to 24 hours before. Any cancellations with less than 24 hours’ notice results in a fee.

“I can count on two hands the number of no-shows we’ve had in the past year, which is a testament not just to our skillset but to Fresha too. Having a cancellation policy has helped us beyond belief in such testing times,” he explains.

“HAVING A CANCELLATION POLICY HELPED US BEYOND BELIEF” ANIL SALHAN

SECURE YOUR INCOME WITH FRESHA. JOIN FRESHA FOR FREE AT FRESHA.COM/FOR-BUSINESS

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14/09/2022 14:57

MISSION CONTROL PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel*

HOW DO YOU COMPARE?

PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL

7.2%

How was business in August compared with July?

• Create new revenue streams. Does

SAME 21% UP 35% DOWN 44%

How was business in August 2022 compared with August 2021?

£66.80

UP 78%

THE MISSION: CHRISTMAS CHEER

9.7% of revenue

at Christmas is retail

35%

of salons offer an in-salon Christmas event for clients

your business make money while it’s closed? Stop relying on in-salon services alone, and create new revenue streams such as opening an online store.

• Offer video consultations. These allow you to see clients remotely, at a time that suits your schedule and theirs. From pre-visit safety consultations to online masterclasses, video consultations are a revenue generator that require little effort.

• Integrate online booking into your website or socials. According to Phorest research, one-third of online bookings are made outside of salon opening hours.

DOWN 22%

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND

Here are some top tips on how to safeguard your salon revenue and optimise profits, even in times of uncertainty.

22%

of salons take deposits for Christmas bookings

“We have a VIP Christmas event where we typically take a substantial amount of money and sell the majority of our Christmas stock”

• Send automated email and SMS reminders. Sent automatically at a time to suit clients, reminder messages reduce no-shows and provide a stellar service.

• Secure every booking with a deposit.

This way you can protect your revenue and ensure that even if your client doesn’t show up, at least a portion of your time will be paid for. Better still, establish flexible deposits based on client risk and service value with salon software such as Phorest.

• Charge no-show and late cancellation fees. One of the most effective ways to safeguard your salon revenue, fees also send a message to clients that your time is valuable and not to be taken advantage of.

*Reader Panel methodology: Survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

PRE-COVID, WE ALL knew that the Christmas period was one salons and barber shops could rely on to boost profits. Retail opportunities increase massively, everyone’s booking in for their colour appointments, party menus tempt clients back in sooner.

Then Covid happened and two Christmases of no-shows, cancellations and even ‘lockdown by proxy’ last year following government recommendations to stay home. Everyone is eyeing December with a mix of excitement and anxiety, wondering what it will bring.

Are you as prepared as you can be?

SAFEGUARD YOUR SALON FROM NASTY SURPRISES

Avril Kealy is a global SEO and content writer at Phorest Salon Software.

Find out more at phorest.com @phorestsalonsoftware @phorest.ukie

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20/09/2022 11:26

Join the UK’s largest trade body for hairdressing, barbering and beauty…

FOR LESS THAN 80P A DAY

Join before 31 October and quote CHEAD22 to get £25 off your membership fee

You’ll wonder what you did without us.

Call us: 01234 831965 Email: enquiries@nhbf.co.uk

www.nhbf.co.uk

CASH IN BANISH DRAMA AT THE END OF THE DAY WITH NEW PHORESTPAY CARD TERMINALS

The saying ‘cash is king’ has become rather redundant in recent years, dethroned by the convenience of card payments. The pandemic only accelerated this change: in 2020, official data from a UK financial study showed that the number of payments made using physical tender fell by 35 per cent.

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Salons who switched to card payments during the pandemic to help reduce contact infection risks are unlikely to switch back again either. Yet that desire to seek out card payment options has thrown up its own issues – ones that Phorest Salon Software has stepped up to solve.

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14/09/2022 14:59

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

TECHNOLOGY AS IT SHOULD BE: FREEING YOU UP TO FOCUS ON YOUR PASSION

ONE SYSTEM, ONE SOLUTION

When your POS system and card payment terminals are from separate providers, you’re faced with the annoyance of reconciling the two at the end of the day by cross-referencing to make sure everything has been accounted for.

Not only is it time-consuming, but it also has potential for human error as staff must manually type the final totals into the card terminal for every transaction. One slip on the terminal keypad and you can be left scratching your head for hours.

Save time and energy with the introduction of PhorestPay Card Terminals, offering one seamless system for payments. Whether clients are booking online and paying ahead of time, or tapping their card in the salon, everything is effortlessly accounted for in one place.

You can find it all on the Phorest dashboard, updating in real-time. That means your reports are automatically up to date, rendering any late-night tallying unnecessary. This is technology as it should be: freeing you up to focus on your passion.

PhorestPay Card Terminals can be used just like any other card terminal, with the added benefit that they sync perfectly with the rest of the PhorestPay and Phorest Salon Software offerings.

Earlier this year, Phorest unveiled the Cardless Checkout feature, giving clients the option to pay using a securely stored card on its system for even faster checkouts. Phorest also allows salons to take variable booking deposits, depending on the service or client, as well as the ability to charge a cancellation fee to protect their bottom line from no-shows.

Choosing PhorestPay means choosing a payments partner that understands your needs. Phorest was born on the salon floor, and knows all of the ins and outs of the industry to actively create solutions for the issues that matter to you.

CASH IN AND END PAYMENT DRAMAS WITH PHORESTPAY CARD TERMINALS. TO LEARN MORE ABOUT PAYMENT SOLUTIONS AND BEYOND, VISIT PHOREST.COM OR EMAIL TOGETHERWEGROW@PHOREST.COM

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14/09/2022 15:00

ALL CHANGE!

YOUR GUIDE TO RUNNING A SUSTAINABLE SALON BUSINESS FROM OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS A salon refit is always a significant investment, but as Anne Veck and Keith Mellen, our newly re-crowned Most Wanted Sustainability Heroes, explain, it makes sense to make some of these changes at any time IT MAY SOUND obvious, but work with a designer and shopfitter who have experience in sustainable salon design.

They should be well versed in using certified, recycled, non-toxic building materials, as well as phosphate-free and low VOC paints (these contain less ‘volatile organic compounds’ than traditional paints).

Any wood used should be FSC certified. Choose sustainable furniture and fittings, whether new or upcycled. Pallets, cable drums, reclaimed timber, scaffolding boards, distressed furniture, industrial metal… the options are endless if you get creative! Look out for new carbon-zero furniture made with recycled materials – try Maletti and other furniture makers.

Install a fitted ventilation/ extractor venting system for better air quality for everyone, including team members Generate your own renewable energy with solar panels, an air source or clients with asthma heat pump or even geothermal energy (though this requires quite a lot or breathing difficulties. of land). With energy prices increasing, the savings that can be made Meanwhile, grey water/heat by producing your own energy can be substantial. transfer plumbing will help At Anne Veck Oxford we invested in a BlueGen back in 2013. This you save on energy costs. is a micro CHP system (combined heat and power) based on fuel cell When it comes to flooring, technology and optimised for maximum electricity generation from consider marmoleum, a type the natural gas supply. It’s ideal for small businesses and private of linoleum that’s one of the households and with it we’ve reduced both our energy costs and CO2 most sustainable materials of emissions by about half. any kind. And finally, when thinking about lighting, we recommend installing sky lights for more natural light (great for client hair colour and general relaxing!) and LED lighting for all your external displays, complete with a daylight sensor with override timer to trigger the display.

RENEWABLE ENERGY

NEXT MONTH: GETTING ACCREDITED MEANWHILE, HEAD TO CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/ BUSINESS FOR MORE HINTS AND TIPS FROM ANNE AND KEITH AND TO FIND THEIR SALON RE:SOURCE TOOLKIT IN FULL

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14/09/2022 15:02

SALON, OWNERS… OWNERS #1

Anne Veck and Keith Mellen Anne and Keith relocated to this Bicester salon in 2016 and immediately undertook a total refi t, inspired by a salon they’d seen in Namibia that used only recycled and reconstituted materials. They designed and made the reception desk, styling stations, retail displays and colour bar themselves; other features such as coffee tables, magazine racks and a selfie wall were made from recycled pallets and cable drums. Committed to being a green salon, the team introduced compostable towels and infra-red heaters, fi tted LED lighting throughout and used recycled card and paper for all stationery.

OWNER #2 Tia Jacobs When Tia took over in 2019, the salon was renamed Edith et Moi but the commitment to sustainability remained. Nothing that Anne and Keith had put in place was removed; instead, inspired by their Salon Re:Source guide, Tia introduced lots of plants to the salon to purify the air and add moisture, as well as a living plant wall made out of recycled pallets. The team is also looking at ways to reuse hair waste and are in talks with various companies about what can be done to ensure this doesn’t end up in landfi ll.

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14/09/2022 15:02

WHAT COMES NEXT? HAIRDRESSERS HAVE TO SEIZE THE FUTURE

Do you find the evolution of the industry exciting or unnerving? If it’s the latter, Ky Wilson, founder of The Social in London and the Lake District, has some bad news for you…

THERE ARE TWO types of hairdressers. Those who look to the future, and those who live in the past. Do you feel constantly under pressure to compete with other businesses around you? Are you scared of stepping out of your comfort zone? Are freelancers destroying the high street salon model? Should stylists have to work on a Saturday? If you answered mostly yes, it’s not good news for you.

Most salons in our industry are institutionalised, established within the norms of how things have always been done. This has never made sense to me.

The world is a different place to what it was 30 years ago but we’re still running salons in the same way. Why?

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Back in the day, if you were top dog in the salon, the next logical step was to open your own, with a vision of being the best. But what happened when everyone did this? The salon market became saturated. Nowadays, more stylists want to take back control of their own lives, so their next logical step is to go freelance. What happens?

That’s right, freelancing becomes saturated too.

We know the reasons why stylists choose this route – flexibility, control and a better work/life balance. Yet most long-term freelancers I know have been forced into either opening up their own studio (favoured by accountants), or moving back into a salon role with a flashy job title (realistic for only a few).

Why can’t we be freelance forever? We kid ourselves that, as we’re surrounded by clients all day, everything is fine, but eventually it gets lonely and can have a detrimental impact on your mental health. It’s human nature to want to be around people, to work together. Now there are co-work spaces with that buzzy salon vibe popping up, which will be the norm for some time.

The next step? Creative spaces that don’t just focus on hair, but other wellbeing and creative industries. Collaborations are key, for shoots, stage work and guest spots around the world.

So, what happens now? Like it or not, Generation Z is the future. Use words like ‘woke culture’ or ‘snowflake’? Chances are you’re living in the past. Gen Z champions human diversity at every level and is generally non-traditional, entrepreneurial and culturally agile. As of 2020 it now makes up about 40 per cent of consumers too, so if you’re not willing to adapt for your staff, are you willing to adapt for your clients?

The way I see it, you can resist and moan until you’re blue in the face. Or you can embrace it, adapt your business, and thrive.

CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 11:33

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

HAIRDRESSING IS AN ART. START WITH THE PERFECTLY PREPPED CANVAS WITH NEW OLAPLEX BROAD SPECTRUM CHELATING TREATMENT

No matter what kind of hair you specialise in – colour, curls, keratin treatments – they all require the same thing: a perfectly prepped base. As with most things, so much of the success is in the preparation, so ensuring your client’s hair is in the best possible condition before you get stuck into the latest transformation is essential.

The OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment is a powerful, high-potency professional cleanser that removes unwanted deposits at the cortex level. That could be anything from product build-up, oil and hard water minerals, through to chlorine, heavy metals, pollutants, medications, and discolouring iron and copper. All these elements are hiding in your client’s hair, disrupting your hard work by destabilising the internal structure of each strand.

By removing all these unwanted elements from the hair cortex, your client’s hair is left ideally prepped for whatever comes next. You’ll find that your colour appears more vibrant and stable, curls and longer lengths are more manageable, and condition is boosted. The difference is clear as day!

EXOTIC EXTRACTS The non-stripping formula is boosted with kakadu plum extract, rich in vitamin C, to help preserve essential proteins and moisture. Confidently remove all the bad stuff you don’t want and retain the benefits!

WIPED CLEAN Build regular use of the OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment into your client’s hair journey to keep their condition as spotless as possible. A simple wash is all it takes to see dramatically boosted results.

Once your client has experienced the deep-clean finish, they will see its worth with total clarity.

AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTOR: ASTON & FINCHER, CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY, SALLY BEAUTY, SALON CONCEPT, SALON PROMOTIONS, SALONS DIRECT, AND XPERT PROFESSIONAL, OR BUY ONLINE AT UK.OLAPLEX.COM CREATIVE HEAD

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14/09/2022 15:03

CHANGE MAKERS

AN EASY-TO-USE SALON SOFTWARE SYSTEM WILL TRANSFORM YOUR DAY-TO-DAY LIFE AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS. HERE’S WHAT IT’S DONE FOR THIS MANAGER…

ALANIS POWER

SALON MANAGER, PURDY & POWER, CRANBROOK @PURDYANDPOWERSALON OPENED: 2005 STAFF: 10 FORMER SYSTEM: SOFTWARE SALON VIBE: BUZZY, FUN, GO WITH THE FLOW BRANDS USED: KÉRASTASE, OLAPLEX, WELLA PROFESSIONALS

How did the business start?

“My mum and my aunt decided to go into business together. It started with a couple of chairs and it’s been growing ever since!

You can be more straight up with one another when you work with family and, of course, we’re really loyal to one another as well.

I also think we’re more approachable as a family business.”

How do you elevate your clients’ appointments to a five-star experience?

“All our staff are approachable. It’s about sitting down with clients to understand what they want and need. Giving them the education on how to maintain their hair at home too makes a big difference, and people feel like they can ask any question.”

“SOCIAL MEDIA IS A GREAT SOURCE FOR EDUCATION. WE SEND EVERY STAFF MEMBER ON ONE OR TWO COURSES A YEAR TO KEEP EVERYONE PROGRESSING” ALANIS POWER 34

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CREATIVE HEAD

15/09/2022 10:29

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

What has been your biggest business lesson this year?

“Since Covid I’ve really developed boundaries. Now we have a firm line on deposits and late notices.

It makes you appear more as a high-end salon when you have proper policies in place.”

14% OF CLIENTS BOOK ONLINE

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NEW CLIENTS WON ONLINE IN AUGUST

£30K

OF BOOKINGS MADE VIA SLICK MARKETING

Since you introduced Slick, how has your business changed?

“It has become so much easier – the software is bang up-to-date. No-one wants to talk on the phone anymore, but the text messages and online booking system make things so straightforward and have helped us grow. Most importantly, the Slick team is always ready to help. That’s really what was missing with our previous software provider. I now have the tools to run my business properly.”

What business support does Slick offer?

“It’s more than a system. Slick is not interested in just selling you software, it’s interested in helping your business grow too. We get free coaching from an industry expert to help us achieve our goals; it’s like getting a £500 session for free, every month.”

What advice would you give salon owners still using paper planners?

“Wake up! You can only earn money if you have the right tools. You need software to grow.”

LEARN HOW TO WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER, WITH SLICK. SCAN THE QR CODE OR VISIT GETSLICK.COM/CREATIVE-HEAD FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK A DEMO

CREATIVE HEAD

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20/09/2022 10:09

GLOW FURTHER

IT’S ALL ABOUT THOSE WARM, GOLDEN-HOUR TONES FOR AUTUMN. THE LUMISHINE COLLECTION FROM JOICO FEATURES NEW SHADES THAT WILL HAVE YOU BEAMING FOR A/W22

LUMISHINE’S BOND-B UILDIN TECHNOLOGY DELIVER G ARGIPLEX S LOOKING HAIR RESULT HEALTHYS, REDUCING BREAKAGE AND SEAL ING IN SHINE

Give your clients that undeniable fresh-hair glow with the help of new shades from JOICO for the new season. With updated shade ranges for both the JOICO LumiShine YouthLock and JOICO LumiShine LUMI10 Color collections, there are plenty of options for any client who might sit in your chair seeking trending hair tones.

LOCKED IN

Balance the rising trend for warmer shades with effective coverage with two new additions to the JOICO LumiShine YouthLock line-up. Natural Warm and Natural Warm Copper are the latest shades from the permanent crème colour line-up, delivering 100 per cent grey coverage and an expanded world of glowing possibilities. Think warm fireside feels, featuring balanced nude tones for blondes and brunettes, plus warm natural tones kissed with a subtle flow of burnished copper.

The rich crème colour formula is formulated with the line’s signature blend of collagen, buriti oil and arginine to help lock in both the look and feel of younger hair.

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CREATIVE HEAD

14/09/2022 15:05

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L *Versus untreated damaged hair. **When followed by K-PAK Color Therapy shampoo and conditioner

GLOW ON THE GO

Time is money, so for those clients who can’t commit to lengthy, pampering appointments but who still want complete grey coverage, try JOICO LumiShine LUMI10 for fast-acting finished looks.

There are new shades joining the LUMI10’s NG and NV series, so you can have vibrant, permanent shades on speed dial.

These trendsetting, natural gold and coveted cool natural violet tones can achieve up to 100 per cent grey coverage in just 10 minutes, while also locking in up to two-times the shine!* The concentrated pigments in the formula are set to super-speed when paired with the LUMI10 Accelerator, while supercharged conditioning polymers nourish and protect lengths for up to 30 shampoos.**

“With colour it’s all about delivering the best results possible and finding the best products for the challenge in hand. JOICO has an unparalleled collection of innovative colour products,” explains Dan Spiller, JOICO color ambassador for the UK, Europe and Ireland. “Autumn is such a fantastic season for hair trends. It’s always full of rich, warm colours which are incredibly eye-catching. With an unparalleled collection of innovative colour products, JOICO really does have something for everyone. LumiShine YouthLock and LUMI10 are two of my favourite products to use in the salon. LumiShine YouthLock keeps hair healthy and full of youth and LUMI10 allows us to provide a more efficient colour service to those who have a limited timeframe.

As we move into winter, it’s time to warm up the hair with a beautiful inviting colour. Luxurious Copper and Tweed Blonde are the two musthave trends this year, with colours full of warmth that are exceptionally head-turning. Luxurious Copper finds three to four copper tones woven throughout the hair, creating a multi-dimensional feel that is completely unique to the individual and works with their complexion.

“Tweed Blonde is a nod to more natural, beige blonde that we’ve loved throughout summer. However, the use of low lights and darker tones woven into the natural beige creates a gorgeous tweed-like effect.”

NO MATTER YOUR CLIENTS WANTS AND NEEDS, THE NEW SHADES FROM THE JOICO LUMISHINE AND LUMI10 RANGES WILL PRODUCE GLOWING REVIEWS EVERY TIME. FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT JOICO.EU @JOICOEUROPE

CREATIVE HEAD

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14/09/2022 15:06

ON THE FLOOR

After a tumultuous few years, the industry is getting back on its feet. But will rising costs and the looming prospect of recession prove an even bigger challenge than Covid? Creative HEAD’s major study examines the ups and downs facing hair professionals in 2022

One year has passed since the UK hairdressing industry emerged, blinking like a rabbit in the headlights, from the final lockdown and hair pros returned to work in what was left of their business.

The good news is there are now signs of sustained recovery, and confidence levels are rising, albeit cautiously. But unsurprisingly, given the enormous jolt to the industry, life has not gone back to ‘normal’ – too much has changed.

Salon owners are investing heavily in staff, not just with tailor-made packages to help stem the tide towards self-employment, but also in the time taken to making sure everybody’s okay. Recruitment remains challenging – nobody knows where all the apprentices have gone – and post-lockdown youngsters don’t seem to have as much self-confidence. Looming on the horizon? An inflation-fuelled recession. After everything that’s been thrown at the industry over the past two years, will that be the final straw for many?

We sat down with members of the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF), the Freelance Hairdressers Association, the Hair & Barber Council, the Salon Employers Association, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and Creative HEAD readers – all of whom remained anonymous, so they could speak their minds freely. Employers, employed stylists and selfemployed stylists discussed the challenges they face as they prepare for the future of their business.

Our key findings include: l Business confidence levels are rising After two years of lockdown and restrictions, businesses are starting to show signs of recovery

l New challenges looming

Soaring costs are causing concern and raising prices is a trend

l Anti-social

Instagram ain’t what it used to be

l Retention, retention, retention!

Investment in team is key and skill swaps are a ‘thing’.

But still not everyone is loyal

l Self-employment isn’t losing its shine

Things are tough, but there’s no going back yet

l Where have all the apprentices gone?

Salons are struggling to find them – and there are some hard feelings about colleges

l The youth of today

Short in confidence, short on effort – and in short supply

l A stigmatised profession

Self-employment is more accepted now, but opinions of careers in hairdressing need to change

On The Floor 2022 was produced by Creative HEAD in association with

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 11:44

On The Floor Report

Business confidence levels are rising After a difficult winter grappling with yet another Covid variant, hairdressing businesses are finally showing more positive signs of recovery. Salon bosses generally are looking at rising revenues and starting to feel quietly confident.

“I’m feeling conservatively optimistic. We are looking at how we’ve performed so far this year and seeing growth in average service revenue, growth in treatments, and our retail average and frequency of guests are also looking strong.

Time will tell whether the length between visits increases but I think the industry has always fared reasonably well in recessions because it’s the one treat that people look forward to, it’s the two, three hours of escape from the doom and gloom.”

That being said, city centre salons are not doing as well as regional ones, with businesses struggling to cope with dwindling footfall as more people work from home: “We have a salon in a small town, and the team’s exactly the same, we didn’t lose anybody. But things in our city centre salon have been harder, partly because it’s a bigger site and the team is a lot bigger. Also, people have just not returned to the city. We had hair and beauty together but after the last lockdown we decided to close beauty completely because that just did not return at all. What we’ve found is that hair has bounced back and people are coming in, but the patterns of people coming in have changed totally. Late nights, for example, which used to be booked up constantly, are now some of the quieter times. And earlier in the week is sometimes busier now. So it’s just really changed the whole flow and dynamic of the working life of the salon. It’s the unpredictability of it as well, it’s quite difficult to manage.

We might have some weeks that are great and others that are patchy and that’s difficult for our new stylists who are trying to build their client base.”

This unpredictability makes it difficult for city centre businesses to plan from one day to the next: “I know a guy who owns a barber shop on Fleet Street and it’s the same thing: one day he’s really busy, really optimistic, and the next day things fall off a cliff. There’s no consistency.

We had a really busy Monday, but the two Mondays previous had been terrible. You seem to live day by day.”

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New challenges looming The positivity in terms of business activity is being counter-balanced by the soaring cost of doing business.

Salon owners are experiencing a ‘perfect storm’ of rising energy costs, supply price inflation and increases to National Minimum Wage/National Living Wave and National Insurance Contributions, and there are concerns, too, about an impending recession.

“I think there’s a large recession looming and that will probably hit us. We’ve been in business for 21 years now and these are probably the most challenging trading conditions that we’ve ever had. I feel like this is definitely going to be worse than in 2008.”

“Do I think the business is going to be okay in the future?

Fingers crossed, yes I do. The fingers crossed thing is only because I’m aware that there are major issues in the industry at the moment with staff retention, rising costs and also there are the changes in government and everything that we have going on at a higher level. They do manage to put our industry in jeopardy, to be perfectly honest with you, because whatever happens in the bigger picture, we are the first industry that feels it.”

Self-employed hairdressers have also been hit hard by rises in the day-to-day cost of living. “It’s not just the electricity bill, it’s the cost of items such as foils. I used to pay £10 and now it’s £16. Colours, too, they’ve gone up in price three times in the past year.” It's forcing many to take a closer look at how they charge for their services.

“I did a price calculator course, which I found really useful.

Because when I first went self-employed I was not charging enough. I was worried people wouldn’t come, so I thought it would be better to have bums on seats. And then I realised that I was working too hard for not enough profit, so I looked

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Case Study

Clare Cartwright New challenges looming, continued from page 39

into how I should set my prices. I didn’t want to look at what salons in my area were charging because they have different overheads, so I found this pricing course and it’s basically a calculator. I input everything – my outgoings for the year and how long things take me and everything like that – and it calculates what I need to be charging to make a profit. Doing that has definitely changed the way my business is going.”

“During lockdown I watched an influencer on Instagram and she was talking about how to work out your costings per tube, your peroxide, your timings. I’d always had fixed pricing, including for wedding hair, but actually when I thought about it, I realised different styles require different amounts of time, there could be up to an hour’s difference. So when people contact me now I say it’s price on consultation, because it’s the time they’re paying for, as well as the products.”

Ironically, because overheads have risen so dramatically and so quickly, it’s given freelancers the confidence to raise their prices.

“A lot of clients were very understanding when I raised my prices but some people are always after an offer and so I’ve had to let them go. My husband said: ‘If they don’t want to pay your prices somebody else will,’ and finally I have the confidence to say that’s my pricing and I’m not going to budge on it.”

“Pre-Covid I never took deposits, but now I take 50 per cent.

Clients can still cancel or reschedule up to 48 hours before their appointment but after that I’m keeping the deposit. And since I’ve put this system in place people are far less likely to mess me around.”

Businesses who use deposits reduce their no-shows by 55 per cent*

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SELF-EMPLOYED, ELYSIAN HAIR, CORNWALL

“I’m investing in improving my business skills” “I’ve been doing lots of courses to help me improve the running of my business. I’ve got my own studio, but I’m in a small town so I need to work hard to bring in new clients and make more profit. I’ve spent hundreds of pounds on these courses in the past few months but it’s all been worth it.

“Doing Maddie Cook’s Pricing Calculator course was a game-changer for me. You decide what profit you want to make, then you input your costs and it tells you what prices you need to charge to hit that profit. Some of my services needed to go up a couple of pounds, others by considerably more. It’s really made me think about the cost of the

products I use, and also that I need to factor in charging for my time.

“The other thing I’m getting tuition in is social media because that’s how I get my clients.

They’re always changing Instagram so I want to get guidance from experts and get my head around it all before my competitors do.

It’s no longer about ‘before and after’ shots now – you have to show the process.

You have to get in front of the camera yourself and effectively become a presenter, and I know I have to post at least threetimes a week between 6PM and 7PM. It’s a lot of extra work – like having a second job at times – but I know that if I don’t do it I will lose clients.”

CREATIVE HEAD

14/09/2022 10:43

On The Floor Report

Changing algorithms and a new focus on video have led to a love/hate relationship with social media.

For freelancers, social media was a game-changer – an opportunity to build yourself up, show what you can do and build ‘brand me’. But recent changes to Instagram and a new focus on videos and Reels (to be more like TikTok) have meant showing fabulous hair is no longer enough. You have to be in front of the camera, showing off your personality – and not everybody is comfortable with that. Meanwhile, eyes on work have gone down massively, and that’s a big worry when social media is your main source of marketing and getting new clients.

“Something that I’ve noticed lately – that I find a little bit worrying for my freelance work outside of the salon – is that interaction with things that I’ve posted on Instagram has just plummeted completely. I rely heavily on Instagram to get fashion shoot or music video work, but they’re basically trying to make the app into TikTok. It’s stressing me out because it’s forcing me into doing more Reels and videos and I’m just absolutely useless. People on TikTok are personalities and they speak to their followers and stuff like that. That’s not me at all. I don’t care about the likes on my posts, but I do care about how many people see my posts and that has gone down rapidly. And it seems like such a trivial thing, but it’s where I get all my work outside of the salon. It almost makes me think: ‘What’s the point?’”

“I have a love/hate relationship with Instagram, for sure.

I love a course, and so I’ve been doing a lot of social media courses because of all the changes. And we have to do Reels, polls, talk to the camera, all of these things. It’s no longer about just doing really good hair. You could do the best hair in the world and not get any clients because of the changes on Instagram. So it’s quite frustrating having to do all of these extra things, and obviously, I’m using my own money to pay for these courses and it’s not strictly hair related. And it’s having to think of all these things on top of your day-to-day work; having to post three times a week, do X amount of Stories. I appreciate that is the way the world is going, but it is tough.”

Even employed stylists sympathise with freelancers reliant on social media: “I’ve got a lot of friends who have gone into freelancing and the grass isn’t always greener. You’re reliant on Instagram as your full-time client earner. I’m an employed member of staff and one of the biggest stresses I have is getting content to post because we’re a premium salon and my clients are high powered businesswomen who don’t want to be Instagram models. So I can’t imagine that being an even bigger part of my job or having to rely on a social media platform to earn a living.”

CREATIVE HEAD

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61 per cent of salons have raised their prices since April 2022, with a further 51 per cent saying they will do so imminently**

According to the NHBF, in terms of direct impact on business there is most concern about energy costs (77 per cent) and the increased cost of trade suppliers (61 per cent). In response, the most common actions businesses are taking include removing any non-essential expenditure (64 per cent), putting up prices (59 per cent), making cost efficiencies (46 per cent), holding off taking on new staff/apprentices (44 per cent), and reducing energy usage (37 per cent)

*Timely. **NHBF

Anti-social

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Retention, retention, retention!

With growing acceptance of the swing to selfemployment (and the reasons for it), employers are working increasingly hard to keep their staff happy and motivated.

“We’re investing in the team. It’s about giving them opportunities, being flexible – if someone wants to do four long days, they can. We do team events like bowling nights, we have barbecues, we go to industry events. It’s about trying to get staff engaged and to reinforce that you’re part of a team, part of a group. When someone’s self-employed, they’re just paid to do what they do. We offer financial advice and planning, we’re offering to top-up pensions, we’re exploring all the avenues. We’re just about to introduce a new pay structure where staff get a guaranteed hourly rate.

And then with their extra commission, they can create a pot and use that to finish early or buy extra holidays. After lockdown people have become quite demotivated about coming into work, so it’s about getting them fired back up and make them feel like they’re part of something.”

There’s major investment into staff training – ensuring everyone is upskilled to support maximum earning potential – but also in mental health and wellbeing. And it’s not just a financial investment, it’s about setting aside time to have those conversations and make sure everyone’s okay, and re-evaluating situations and skillsets on a more regular basis. Because one size no longer fits all – it’s about finding out what makes each individual team member tick and creating bespoke packages that will keep them motivated and loyal to the business.

“We have some team members who have been with us for a long time – some as long as 34 years, most 15 years. One of the things that we’ve found over recent times, we’ve just become a lot more flexible and understanding and have had to listen more carefully to what people want. So, it’s not that kind of one set of hours fits all, or one sort of package fits all; we’ve done all sorts of things that we would never have considered doing five years ago, which I think has probably helped with loyalty. So, things such as one Saturday per month off, which is something we would never, ever have done before, slightly later starts sometimes, understanding people’s travel patterns, whether they struggle to get into work for a certain time, family commitments, and so on. And

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understanding – I suppose this goes back to the mental health aspects of it – the pressures of making sure clients are happy now and the time per service. We’ve just had to keep adapting and changing things and that helps, ultimately, with loyalty.”

“I’ve definitely changed in the past two years in that I do one-to-ones a lot more regularly with the staff. Some want to enter awards and competitions, some want more time at home, so we try to schedule all their hours over four days.

I’ve done a lot more on personality types, as well; each staff member is different, and how you manage them is different, too. I used to take offence if someone didn’t want to do what I thought was the best way to do things: why wouldn’t someone want to work overtime? I’ve learnt that for loyalty, I’ve got to see each person as an individual and not take things to heart.”

However, while employment packages are becoming increasingly flexible and generous, there is a limit to what employers can do. Ultimately, with margins being squeezed, the future of the business cannot be compromised.

“We are the heartbeat of the high street. How many times do you hear clients say they’re meeting a friend for a coffee after their appointment? So if we’re not on the high street then what happens to all the other shops? We’re pretty much the only thing you can’t buy on the internet, lockdown proved how valuable we are. We need to get back to that, speaking to government about fair taxation and support, because it’s alright to offer everything to staff but, at the end of the day, you’ve got to make a profit and you’ve got to make sure the bottom line is covered.”

When it comes to staff loyalty, most people agree it’s a generational thing – older staff tend to stay around longer, while for team members born after 1997 – Gen Z – the concept of a career ladder has been replaced by something more ad-hoc and flexible and it’s more difficult to keep them engaged with the business and to see things in the long term.

“We’ve lost young staff to other industries because that seems to be a thing now. It’s like, no-one has a career for life, no-one has that sort of mindset. Now youngsters think: ‘I’ll do that for three years, then that for another three years, I might work in computers, then I might work in sales, and I might work in retail and I might work in hospitality.’ They don’t think ‘I’m going to start as a graduate stylist, and work my way up to art director or manager.’ They don’t see their career in the long term.”

“If we employ a young staff member for five years, we generally keep them. We learn a lot about them in the first five years, because being a graduate stylist, it’s a hard slog – they’re learning, they’re having to work hard to build their

CREATIVE HEAD

14/09/2022 10:44

On The Floor Report

Case Study

Jo Dyer

OWNER, YOKE THE SALON, PLYMOUTH

clientele. If you can just get them to that level where things are stable, they’re earning well… But the challenge is getting them from earning not that much to earning very well.”

Unsurprisingly, the employees we spoke to are enjoying the new flexible working patterns, improved pay and additional perks on offer such as gym membership and team days out, but it’s the training and being part of a team that matter most to them and that's what’s keeping them loyal to the salon.

“I do know quite a few people who have gone selfemployed and it has worked out well for them, but I like being in a team. Also, my boss gives me a lot of training and that’s time where you’re getting paid to train and learn. So, it’s a double benefit. I like the training and the job security. I know that my boss seems to train people up and then they go out on their own and I just don’t know how someone could do that. But also, I don’t know why anybody would want to when you’ve got the team and everything.”

“We have lots of different training going on all the time.

We do lots of mindfulness training and we’re all qualified in that, as well. Some of our stylists are more into it than others because when you say ‘manifesting’, people get put off. But we are very on the ball with that here. We have a new stylist and she said that in her old salon they would get you to qualify and then not take it any further, so you just stay at that one level. Whereas we’re just constantly trying to improve and make ourselves better.”

Employed stylists also feel they have a better work/life balance than self-employed stylists: “While you have to be flexible in the salon and maybe answer a few text messages, when you’re at home you’re not replying to clients and getting people booked in. If you’re self-employed it’s 24/7, there’s no switching off from it.”

Though when you’re passionate about hairdressing, boundaries are a bit more elastic!

“I would say that I’ve got boundaries, but I think everyone in my life would tell me I don’t! I love my job so it all blurs, it all blends into one. Even in my downtime, I’m writing courses or doing something, but it never feels like work because I really love what I do.”

58 per cent of online bookings are made outside of business hours*

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“Skill-swaps are a great way to hang out with and learn from each other” “Last year, after lockdown finished, we started getting involved in industry events and projects again and it was great to meet other people who do things a little differently to us and who inspire us creatively.

So, we started inviting some of these new friends we’d made to come and hang out with us at our salon and basically start sharing and swapping skills.

“We’ve got a couple of barbers coming over to show us some men’s cuts, I’m going over to a teach some easy balayage tricks to a salon that specialises in long hair, and we’re organising a two-day shoot where the photographer’s a mate of

mine and we’ll use house models so it won’t cost us anything, but we’ll take it in turns directing the shots and it will be a good creative process that we’ll all learn something from.

“We’re based in Plymouth, where most of the other salons are self-employed and don’t do stuff like this, so our staff love it and get a real buzz out of it. We do also invest in professional education, sending team members on L’Oréal Professionnel Paris courses and so on, but the beauty of these more informal get-togethers is that everyone can get involved. None of us is a trained educator, we just enjoy sharing ideas and – most importantly – we love the social side.”

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14/09/2022 10:44

HAIRDRESSERS AND MENTAL HEALTH – good for your staff, as well as your business.

It took a pandemic to bring mental health and And that’s the difference with Timely. By wellbeing in hairdressing into sharp focus enabling your salon to minimise gaps, better and, to be honest, it was long overdue. utilise stylist time and create a waiting list if This is an industry that has always been there are last-minute cancellations, Timely not only physically but also emotionally stops your team getting over-booked, helping demanding – sometimes it’s hard to say no to prevent burn-out. to that client who wants a 7AM appointment, By implementing deposits, Timely not only and stylists frequently play the role of shows the value of your work, services and counsellor or therapist and then it can be time, it also minimises no-shows, thereby a struggle to switch off at home – but with reducing stress. lockdown accelerating and exacerbating And by clearly communicating opening mental health problems, a better work/life hours to clients – and then automating the balance needs to be found. booking process with confirmation emails Have you considered how an online and appointment reminders – Timely helps booking system could help? First, with most with setting and living with those boundaries, appointments now being booked online and letting your team enjoy their down-time outside of salon hours, it’s a nice feeling to knowing that client communication is being wake up and find appointments have been taken care of while they relax. filled overnight. But with additional Moha salon owner Kylie Hayes features that you get from Timely, couldn’t have put it better: “I love including only showing available Get 50 per that Timely helps me run my hours, taking deposits and cent off your first business, so much so that I can cancellation policies that prevent two months with spend the time I need on the last-minute appointment changes, Timely by using the salon floor with my clients and this is a booking system that sets still spend time with my family.” better boundaries, too – and that’s code CHOTF50*

*Account must be activated by 31 October

here’s how Timely can help

Start a free trial of Timely to see how it can drive new business and help protect your workforce from unnecessary stresses. Contact the team at 020 3808 0465 / gettimely.com

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CREATIVE HEAD

14/09/2022 10:45

On The Floor Report

Case Study

Self-employment isn’t losing its shine It’s not easy being self-employed right now, with rising costs biting hard. But the pain is worthwhile because it’s their business – and that makes a difference.

Consequently, nobody was surprised that 65 per cent of the workforce is now self-employed.

“You go in thinking that you can earn loads of money and then it’s kind of like, ‘what the heck am I doing? Where’s my money?’ I’ll be honest, I don’t like numbers, they’re a headache. But the positive thing about doing it yourself, or at least being self-employed, is that you still have control over what you’re spending and making, and how the business is going. It just helps when you’re thinking: ‘Where do I need to go? What do I need to change?’ Whereas when you’re employed, it’s a little bit more of a guessing game and you have less control over what you can change and what direction things go in.”

“Some people are financially driven, some want flexibility and others want that different work/life balance, but mostly people have got to a stage in their career where they’ve hit the glass ceiling and there’s no incentive for them to stay – there’s actually no reason for them to stay employed anymore. The ambition level in this industry has changed, people’s needs have changed, but the industry has been too slow to change and that’s why people have made the decision for themselves.”

The freelancers we spoke to felt the stigma around selfemployment is dissipating, particularly among clients, who, after Covid, are enjoying the one-on-one service.

“I’m in a studio at home, so it’s quite a different experience to what my clients have been used to. But for me, people are moving towards that one-to-one personalised experience in a broad array of things, not just hairdressing, because of Covid. So the fact that they don’t have to be around that many people or the fact that they can just get that bespoke service, because they are the only one in my studio with me, it’s why they come” “After lockdown, it’s kind of a release coming into my studio. They can be who they want to be without judgment.

And clients are sat with clients who they would never ordinarily talk to, and they find that exciting – they look forward to it.”

However, ongoing resistance from salon employers, makes freelancers uncomfortable.

“I feel like salons that employ have a real dislike for freelancers and it’s causing friction. Instead of looking at us, why aren’t these salons looking at themselves and asking why is everybody leaving? Maybe they should think: ‘Okay, maybe I’m not paying them enough, maybe there’s not enough holiday, maybe I’m not flexible enough.’ And actually, if they did all that I’d rather be employed in a salon!”

CREATIVE HEAD

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Cristina Fazzone

FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER, LONDON

“Employers and the self-employed need to learn how to get along” “I totally understand why there’s been this huge swing towards selfemployment because people want that flexibility and also control over their working life. But how do we potentially slow it all down and create more of a level playing field?

There’s clearly a need for employed set-ups in this industry; there’s only so much you can learn on your own as a freelancer, and that initial integration within the salon is crucial to keeping up quality within the craft. I feel uneasy when I hear about college students going straight into freelancing when they get their Level 2 qualification – they just

don’t have the experience to cope with the role – but at the same time the traditional in-salon apprenticeship has lost its appeal.

“Salon employers still have a low opinion of freelancers and, although we all work in the same industry, it feels like a battle. The issue of registration comes up all the time. Of course, there are pros to being an unregulated industry, but do they outweigh the cons? It’s a real chicken and egg situation and I’m not sure what the answer is. All I know is that there’s not enough incentive at the moment to be a registered hairdresser.”

Changing to digital consultations can save 15 minutes per customer – that’s 20 hours a week per staff member*

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14/09/2022 10:45

OPINION PIECE It has been ignored and feared in equal measure over the years, but now the selfemployed sector demands respect and recognition, says Hunter Collective founder and chief executive

Lacey Hunter-Felton

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During 2016, when I was laying the foundations of Hunter Collective, I could feel a major change was coming to UK hairdressing. A combination of elements was starting to collide and how we defined ourselves as an industry was beginning to look very different.

As a young stylist on the floor, the rules and pathways of my career were set in stone and hadn’t changed for decades. And yet all around me the world was moving forwards and technology was developing quickly, enabling me to not only share my craft and energy with my clients but also to be seen as an individual in my own right.

The self-employed sector has always been a big part of the hairdressing industry, yet for so long it has been unquantifiable, ignored and feared. It’s been a hidden sector without a voice.

Pre-Covid, a new generation of freelancers was emerging, equipped with the means to elevate their craft in a way only big salon groups had been able to do previously.

Through social media platforms, online booking systems and modern business models like co-working spaces, stylists were able to run their independent businesses at the same level as a traditional salon without the structures and restrictions that once held them back.

Once the pandemic hit, many stylists were forced to pause and reflect on their lifestyle. Throughout our training we are often told to “work smarter, not harder”, yet many found themselves doing the exact opposite. Now they were in search of another way to celebrate their craft while finding their true individual value on the floor and, for the first time, enjoying their freedom off the floor.

At the same time, bricks and mortar salons were getting to grips with rising business rates, unreasonable landlords and wage bills, which left them making hard choices as to how and if they could move their businesses forward.

Some opted for a hybrid model that worked for both sides. Many did not and failed to see the opportunity to collaborate with their teams. As a result, many stylists found themselves looking at self-employment, which they had never had the confidence to consider before. A new future was presenting itself.

This change and rebirth represents a swing of 15 per cent towards self-employment since 2019 and continues to grow at a rapid pace.

I am often asked at Hunter Collective, a co-workspace dedicated to self-employed hair experts and one of the first of its kind in the UK, what is the self-employed sector worth? What is its contribution to the UK economy?

How much product can a self-employed stylist sell to

CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 10:11

On The Floor Report

Case Study

Daniel Couch

HEAD OF COLOUR, RUSSELL EATON, YORKSHIRE

consumers? How professionally can the self-employed represent themselves as a sector? Clients are not concerned by these questions and nor are self-employed stylists. The confidence and entrepreneurialism of this growing sector are clear to all. The question of how to quantify the self-employed sector is asked of me daily. I simply reply that Hunter Collective is excited and proud to collaborate with an upwardly mobile 60 per cent plus of the hair industry. It’s time to embrace and empower a sector that is buzzing with energy and enthusiasm.

I have always found it odd that the salon sector has held so much sway over our industry, but if you take a closer look, it’s because it’s easier to define. Brands, product manufacturers and suppliers can read the numbers and quickly understand if these businesses are compatible with their margins. The numbers game is a challenge for the selfemployed sector! Historically, there’s no rule book for them.

A direct way of unlocking the value of our self-employed sector is to remove some of the boundaries from the past.

Remove the need for a retail premise address to open a professional retail account; remove ridiculously large opening orders for new accounts; remove minimum orders on delivery; stop limiting luxury product range availability to professional self-employed stylists as it is outdated and counter-productive…

These are just some of the obstacles faced by motivated, highly skilled and educated stylists on the product side of their business alone. Lately it has become clear that the value of stylists recommending products and branded services to consumers has gone unchecked. A move towards compensating individual stylists when sharing their social media platforms, for example, should be rewarded and benchmarks created that recognise this new, developing relationship with brands.

Recognition and representation during industry events and education opportunities could also be shared and made available to this growing talent pool. Those manufacturers and suppliers who are inspired by the selfemployed sector and business models within it, such as Hunter Collective, are reaping the rewards long-term with their collaborative and transparent approach.

This conversation is evolving, yet an element that is crystallising is the opinion that the hairdressing industry as a whole is beginning to recognise its value within society and the economy. We are a highly skilled workforce that accommodates its client base in many versatile ways. We are at the cutting edge of innovation, where individuals and their services intersect and produce growth and change.

CREATIVE HEAD

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“When I switched from fashion to hair, people started talking to me differently” “I’ve got a university degree in Fashion and did a Masters at Central Saint Martins but something in my gut said I’d made the wrong decision. I tested the water in lots of different fashion-related jobs but nothing fit and then a friend of mine opened a salon and I went to work there as an assistant. I was 26 years old, I was on £80 a week and my dad didn’t talk to me for six months.

“Switching to hair was one of the best decisions I’ve ever made, but also one of the hardest. First, the industry is not geared up for older apprentices in terms of funding, but also it was people’s reactions, too – it was like suddenly I was no longer an intellectual. I was going on holiday and a client asked me if I was taking anything to read. I’m an avid reader

– I read Dante’s Inferno during lockdown – but this client clearly thought I wasn’t a ‘serious’ reader and would be reading OK! magazine or something.

“Hairdressing is still so stigmatised. It goes back decades. I watched the film Educating Rita the other day, which is about a woman wanting to improve herself. She starts from a place where she’s surrounded by hairdressers – and we’re perceived as being right at the bottom, the lowest of the low.

“The classification of our industry needs to change.

It’s not even recognised as a creative industry by government. Getting that recognition would allow people to see it as a serious profession, and maybe I wouldn’t have to explain to people that I’m not ‘just’ a hairdresser.”

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20/09/2022 10:12

Case Study

Laura Ott

DIRECTOR, HAIR OTT, PORTSMOUTH

Where have all the apprentices gone?

“Online courses are setting up false expectations” “For the two years of lockdowns we couldn’t offer any work experience, we lost contact with schools and we couldn’t do careers fairs or information evenings or anything like that. So when it came to recruiting this year’s apprentices, we had to start again from scratch.

“It’s been hard work but we’ll take on five apprentices this year, as well as eight Saturday assistants, and they will become apprentices next year, so I’m feeling pretty good about things.

I know that colleges give financial incentives to schools to send them their students but I feel something has changed – schools seem more receptive to us going in and talking to their pupils

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about hairdressing. And while 10 years ago it was a case of ‘these students aren’t academic so we feel they would be suited to hairdressing’, now they’re sending us students because they actively want to be hairdressers or do something in this field.

“A lot is said about how college courses aren’t up to standard, but short online courses are even more of a problem.

We work with Kickstart, a government scheme that aims to provide jobs to 16- to 24-year-olds, and I insisted they had to come to us trained to Level 2.

Jobcentre Plus called and said they had an applicant who didn’t have Level 2 but had found an online course that would get him qualified in 10 weeks. I refused to take him on.”

It was universally agreed by participants that an apprenticeship is the best route into hairdressing – it’s the first-hand experience of doing the actual job; the Saturdays, the plate-spinning – you just don’t get that in college. One employee we spoke to had started out in college and then switched to an apprenticeship and said the difference between the two was staggering. But while there are some hard feelings about colleges right now in terms of their students being ill-prepared for salon life, people equally expressed concern about where all the 16- to 18-year-olds have gone – it’s almost like that generation has gone missing.

“There are about 10 salons in our area looking for apprentices and it’s like a race between us all to grab whoever we can. We’ve even had the situation where prospective apprentices are playing us off against each other, going to one salon and then another and another.

We all talk to each other so we know what’s happening.”

“We just can’t find apprentices. I’ve gone to colleges, I’ve gone everywhere, but we can’t find people who actually want to be in hairdressing.”

However, the lack of apprentices is not limited to hairdressing, said one participant who was involved in writing the Trailblazer Apprenticeships Standards for Hairdressing.

“In that role I am party to figures surrounding apprenticeships across the country and the numbers have fallen dramatically – not just during lockdown but since then too. And there doesn’t seem to be any rhyme nor reason for that, it’s just something that’s happening across the board.

And nobody knows where these youngsters have gone on the employment front because while they do get pushed towards further education those numbers are at the lowest they’ve ever been. So it’s just a big conundrum. Where are these youngsters? Nobody, including government, can answer that question. If the take-up of apprenticeships doesn’t improve, we are setting ourselves up for a skills shortage.

I don’t think the traditional avenues of apprenticeship recruitment are working anymore. I don’t even understand what the National Apprenticeship Service stands for anymore. Our local training provider is struggling to recruit enough apprentices for their next intake and they’re being

CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 10:12

On The Floor Report

Case Study

Ian Harrold told that 90 per cent of apprenticeship candidates are coming direct. They’re bypassing the National Apprenticeship Service website, and that could be why government has lost track of them.”

Tensions are building between colleges and salon employers as both compete for those elusive 16- to 18-year-olds: “One of the toughest challenges we have is that our local colleges give the schools a financial incentive to send their students to them to do hairdressing. I feel like we’re coming up against them on the recruitment front. They’re not working with us – they’re working against us.”

“I think we are in direct competition with further education – the colleges and universities that have so much money to put into marketing. In my local area the colleges seem to be selling this message to 15- and 16-year-olds: ‘Be with your mates, get the bus with your mates, have a lunch break with your mates and then you’ll be a hairdresser at the end of it.’

And then they come to us when they’ve done their Level 2 and apply for a stylist role, and they’ve done a maximum one day a week in a salon and some of them not even that.”

“I’m not saying I hate further education, but we’ve got no way of getting near the students before they get to them.”

Despite widespread dislike of colleges and the standard of training they give, it’s precisely because of their recruitment challenges that some employers are being open-minded about T-Levels, the new technical hairdressing qualification that will be taught in colleges from September 2023, and which will rely heavily on salons providing work experience: “It’s something to get the kids in through the door, to give them a taste of what we offer and to see whether it’s right for them. It’s not going to be a qualification that will allow them to run a column at the end of it, but at least they’ll be able to decide whether or not hairdressing is something they want to go into.”

Businesses that use SMS have an 18 per cent better retention rate than those that don’t*

CREATIVE HEAD

038-043_On the floor_Oct22_GW6.indd 12

OWNER, ATTITUDE MEN’S HAIR, LIVERPOOL

“Awarding bodies have to be more accountable” “There’s a company I know that promises to train barbers to Levels 2 and 3 with full City & Guilds certification and they’re charging £8,000 for the course. There’s nothing illegal about what they’re doing, but all the hours of training that would normally be expected to take place over a 12- or 18-month period, they’re doing in just 12 weeks. I’ve had five of their graduates ask me for a job, having been told they’re salonready, but they’re just not good enough.

“And because I – and countless other barbers in my area – won’t hire them, they end up renting a chair somewhere and then they struggle to build a clientele because they’re just not experienced enough, and as a result

they drop their prices – and that then drags everybody down. Barbering has long struggled with being perceived as a ‘cheap’ industry, but just as we were starting to raise the bar, this cheapens it again – to say you can train someone to be a salonready barber in just 12 weeks devalues the craft.

But because this company is fully booked and commercially successful, you can bet your bottom dollar that there’ll be more companies wanting to do exactly the same thing.

“I feel sorry for the people who sign up to the courses, but I’m angry that City & Guilds is happy to give its accreditation to a set-up like this. In doing so, it is doing the craft of barbering a huge disservice.”

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14/09/2022 10:47

CANCELLATIONS AND NO-SHOWS HAVE INCREASED SINCE LOCKDOWN

Have you noticed how many restaurants and pubs are starting to take deposits nowadays? They can’t afford to have tables sat empty while they turn away other clients – and salons are no different.

Research by Timely shows that businesses that take a deposit reduce their no-show rate by a whopping 55 per cent. Online deposits ensure that your client is committed at the time of booking and that you are paid for your time. They help with cash flow too, enabling you to manage your bills and invoices better, spreading out your cash flow over the month rather than having a huge amount leave your bank account in one go.

Deposits are also an excellent way to ensure customers turn up.

Having online bookings without deposits enables people to book online without being fully committed to that specific time and date.

Deposits can help you filter out those Get 50 per dud appointments, giving you the cent off your first confidence that every client on your books two months with is committed to arriving at the salon.

Timely by using the TimelyPay allows you quickly and code CHOTF50* easily to take online payments from

clients and request a deposit upon booking. You have complete control over the process, too – you can choose which services require deposits, set flat booking fees or charge a percentage, and you can even ask clients to save their card details securely into their Timely account, making the final in-salon payment a breeze. Your client will be prompted to make a payment to secure their appointment, they’ll then pay any outstanding balance on the day of their service.

Jason Donnelly of Asylum Hair & Beauty started taking deposits after experiencing a record number of cancellations over Christmas: “Now, even if we do get a lastminute no-show we still make money from those free time slots.

This means we know our cash flow for those times will allow our business to keep going.”

While implementing deposits wasn’t plain sailing, the difference it’s made to business has been exponential. There’s even been a perk that Jason hadn’t expected: “We get a lot of positive feedback on the deposit system as people can spread the cost of their appointment and don’t feel they pay as much when they visit us.”

*Account must be activated by 31 October

Timely can help stop that profit walking out the door

Discover how Timely can help you take online deposits and protect your profits.

Contact the team at 020 3808 0465 / gettimely.com

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CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 10:13

On The Floor Report

The youth of today As well as being in short supply (see Where have all the apprentices gone?), today’s youngsters have been badly affected by lockdown, which has dented their selfconfidence and mental health generally.

Said one employer: “I spend a large portion of my week mentoring the youngsters because they are at this crossroads. They’re so confused. Some of them have amazing skill sets and talents but then you have to deal with their mental health issues. They’re still trying to get their heads around what happened with Covid – some of them seem to feel that it was a personal thing against them, so you’ve got to have the kid gloves on all the time and just slowly rebuild the blocks again.”

But for others it’s social media – and the pressures this brings – that is causing problems with their younger team members: “With our apprentices, I’m not sure if it’s Covid that created the anxiety and concerns about what their future in hairdressing can involve… I think social media has played a big part in it, both positively and negatively. Some people really embrace it and fly with it, but for others it adds another layer of pressure onto what they already feel they should be doing. And I suppose that if you think of a traditional apprenticeship before social media came along, you could just focus on what you were doing – the actual job in front of you. Now you’ve not just got to think about that job but also how you’re going to photograph it and what it’s going to do to your profile. Interestingly for us, some of our happiest and most profitable stylists are the ones who don’t invest so much time in social media and instead focus on enjoying their job. As employers, we consciously took the decision to support people with their social media, we do content days and so forth, but it’s not an expectation from us.”

Some employers referred to the chasm between young people’s expectations of what they can achieve in hairdressing, and their willingness to put the work in: “Apprentices are coming in and, having seen hairdressers on Instagram, they think they’re going to be famous and earn lots of money. But when they actually have to put the work in and find models, there’s a real ‘can’t be bothered’ attitude, which I find frustrating.”

Consequently, despite struggling to find apprentices, employers are being more picky about who they take on, believing it’s better to have fewer apprentices than to employ people who won’t be worth the investment.

“What we’ve stopped doing is having people just to make up the numbers. Now we ask ourselves: ‘Can we really see this person working on our floor?’ And if we can’t, we don’t go there. Because otherwise we’re basically just employing someone to shampoo, not future hairdressers, and that’s just throwing money away, it’s unsustainable. So we’ve changed how we work and do more of the shampooing ourselves.”

CREATIVE HEAD

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“It’s finding people with passion, and not just passion for the hairdressing industry but a passion for work itself.

Otherwise, they may as well be working for Tesco, it will just be a job. We used to employ anyone who looked like they could do the job, to see how they got on. But now, if I don’t see the passion, they don’t get past the interview stage, and if I don’t see that bit of drive further on down the line then I don’t employ them as stylists either.”

A stigmatised profession Everyone who took part in On The Floor agreed that opinions of careers in hairdressing need to change, and that we need to be talking to everybody – pupils, parents, teachers and government – about the success that you can find in hair, and persuading them that hairdressing is a career of opportunity.

Many employers were critical of careers advisers in schools, who rarely – if ever – actively promote hairdressing as a career and indeed who often dissuade pupils from following this path. “I’ve been doing careers days with kids for more than 20 years, but careers advisers can undo all of that hard work in a flash. And these are people who don’t come along, who aren’t experiencing what the kids are experiencing – yet they have that power to put people off.”

Most identified parents as being key to the solution: “My Saturday girls have been amazed at the opportunities in hairdressing and I’ve said: ‘If you ever want to leave school and come and work for me full-time we can put you through your apprenticeship.’ But it’s the parents who are stopping them: ‘My mum wants me to carry on at school’. And I understand that’s important, but it’s not for everyone. And some parents have a very old-fashioned view of hairdressing, they have no idea of the opportunities on offer. So if we were to encourage and educate more parents I think we could gain a better reputation.”

Part of the problem is that, after decades of being undervalued and overlooked, hairdressers have lost confidence in themselves: “We need to stop apologising for everything. Everyone apologises for putting their prices up.

You’re scared to tell the client that you’re buying a new car in case they think you’re rolling in it.”

“Our industry has a mindset of undervaluing and undercharging. It’s our own fault and our own issues. We need to speak to parents because once you get the buy-in from parents, they’ll support their children coming into the industry. And a lot of it is communicating what we’re about.

We’re a fun industry. We love to take care of people. It’s got so much emotion attached to it, but people don’t value that side of things as much as the monetary value. So getting them to understand and value hairdressing is challenging.”

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14/09/2022 10:48

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14/09/2022 10:51

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THIS FREE MENTORING SCHEME FROM CREATIVE HEAD AND THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY CIC PROVIDES HELP AND SUPPORT FOR HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING BUSINESS OWNERS. NEW APPLICATIONS ARE WELCOME NOW If you feel overwhelmed by your business, want to change direction or simply have a good idea and don’t know how to take it forward, it could be you need a mentor – someone who understands your work environment, has experience of the kind of hurdles you’re facing and can provide practical and personal support.

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There will also be the opportunity for Activators and their mentees to attend workshops, panel discussions and specialist sessions with occasional guest speakers, helping you all to become part of a like-minded community.

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HOW TO APPLY Send us no more than 200 words on where you’re at with your career or business and why you need help. We’ll then pair you with the relevant Activator, who’ll provide mentoring support and guidance for a full 12 months.

Find all the details you need at creativeheadmag.com/activator – applications close on Friday 14 October

15/09/2022 16:27

MEET THE ACTIVATORS

TOP INDUSTRY NAMES WITH YEARS OF INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCE. WHO WILL YOU BE PAIRED WITH?

CHRISTEL BARRONHOUGH Salon owner, London

JANICE BECK Entrepreneur

ANDERSON BOYCE Barber brand owner, Essex

NAOMI BROOKS Salon owner, Manchester

VALERIE FINNEGAN CAHILL Salon owner, Cork

JORDANNA COBELLA Salon owner, London

CRISTINA FAZZONE Independent

LISA FARRALL Independent

ASHLEIGH HODGES Independent

TARIQ HOWES Barber brand owner, Cardiff

JENNIFER LINTON Salon owner, Aberdeen

JAYE MACDONALD Salon owner, Aberdeen

CLAIRE MARTIN KENNEDY Independent

AMANDA NOTTAGE Creative HEAD editorial director

RICHARD PHILLIPART Salon owner, Cheshire

KAYE SOTOMI Salon owner, London

LEE STAFFORD Entrepreneur

ANNE VECK & KEITH MELLEN Campaigners

KAREN WHARTON Salon owner, Staffordshire

KY WILSON Entrepreneur

Apply now at creativeheadmag.com/activator. Applications close Friday 14 October

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LAST CHRISTMAS WAS A CHALLENGE FOR MANY, AS A NEW COVID VARIANT FORCED SALONS TO DEAL WITH CANCELLATIONS AND NO-SHOWS ON A HUGE SCALE. IT’S GOING TO BE DIFFERENT THIS YEAR, RIGHT?! WE ASKED SALON OWNERS TO SHARE HOW THEY WERE PREPPING FOR THE SEASON AHEAD

ALL PRESENT AND CORRECT

PLAN YOUR COUNTDOWN

Everyone loves a Christmas countdown – just think of all those advent calendars – so embrace this when prepping your client communications. “When it comes to the countdown, we go heavy on marketing through our social media channels. And while we don’t like to send too many emails, we do ramp it up slightly during the festive season,” says Teresa Weller from Teresa Weller Hair Art. “This costs nothing, but it does require organisation. Prep in the quieter months of October or November so you’re not caught up managing it alongside a jam-packed December schedule.”

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KEEP ON TOP OF CASH FLOW

The run-up to Christmas and New Year is so busy it’s understandable that admin might drop to the bottom of the pile. But there are important things to keep your eye on, even when the Quality Street been cracked open. “With many running off their feet in the weeks before Christmas and New Year, and then many accounts departments shut for the festive period, it is easy to find yourself getting into financial difficulty at the wrong moment,” warns NHBF chief executive, Richard Lambert. “Keeping on top of the cash flow and credit control during the festive period is essential.”

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MAKE GIFT BUYING EASIER FOR CLIENTS

Christmas is the best time for salon businesses in various ways – colour bookings! Party menus! – and retailing is always a highlight. At Teresa Weller, they order extra stock in November, with a big focus on electricals. “The devil is in the detail and retail, so we also organise gift boxes, gifts with purchases, create stocking fillers and offer beautifully presented gift vouchers with Phorest,” explains Teresa.

Don’t overlook the big power of the mini. “We make sure we have lots of minis that we can package up together with full-sized bottles as extras or they make great stocking fillers,” agrees Krysia West at Perfectly Posh Hair. The NHBF’s Richard Lambert suggests keeping a basket of impulse buys topped up at reception, such as travel products or handbag essentials.

And you can even wrap the products yourself for extra incentive.

“We offer complimentary wrapping, which is always a hit, so stock up on the essentials for this way in advance too, and ensure your front of house can package your retail perfectly and professionally,” adds Teresa.

At Cheveux Salon, Stacey Whyte offers £5 vouchers to use against services in January and February on any retail purchases greater than £50 and, in December, she runs a 25 days of Christmas campaign, which kicks off with 25 per cent off retail… which then drops one per cent a day, so the quicker a client is on stocking up, the better the deal!

Caley Dimmock for Unsplash

BE READY IN CASE OF COVID

With the possibility of an increase in Covid cases in the winter ahead, salons and barber shops should be focused on keeping team and clients safe, and minimising disruption.

“We haven’t got rid of many of our Covid procedures just yet. Our screens are still in place and our sanitation standards haven’t dropped so it will be easy to adjust if we need to,” say Jack Mead and Lydia Wolfe at Jack & The Wolfe.

Krysia West has everything in place in case the salon needs to reintroduce Covid measures. “We’re also going to stagger our working week and instead of working shifts over five days, we will open seven days a week for the month of December to ensure fewer people are in the salon at any one time and we can safely keep clients apart.”

At Neville Hair & Beauty, Elena Lavagni has been planning for the worst-case scenario. “We’ve been saving money into a Covid fund to help should there be another lockdown,” she says. As another precautionary measure, the salon employed its team. “It gives the staff a higher basic salary to ensure that, in case of another lockdown and if furlough is brought back in, staff are able to survive on an 80 per cent wage.”

KNOCK OUT THE NO-SHOWS

At Neville Hair and Beauty, there will be some client incentives that are only accessible when appointments are booked online; “this way we can ensure that the clients have paid a deposit, securing their appointment,” says Elena.

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CONSIDER WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY

With two Christmases hit hard at late notice, many salons were left with gift sets to spare. “This year we will be tightening our belts,” says Jack and Lydia at Jack & The Wolfe.

“With rising costs and still a sense that we’re not out of the woods yet, we will shifting our previous years’ gift sets at sale prices to ensure they fly out of the door.”

PREP FOR LATE BOOKERS

Krysia West at Perfectly Posh Hair knows that while many plan their Christmas appointments carefully, you’ll always get some guests rocking up wanting something at short notice. “I make sure that I have a junior stylist ready and prepped to help out on the floor if we have any last-minute colour, blow-dry or hair-up appointments,” she says. “We all tend to be booked up in advance at Christmas, so we need to make sure we have a member of staff ready for last-minute bookers.”

TAKE CARE OF THE TEAM

At the top of Teresa Weller’s Christmas list every year sits her team’s wellbeing. “It’s always important for me to manage their schedules and stress throughout the busiest month to ensure everyone stays on top form, and on top of their health, too,” says Teresa. “I advise them to do their Christmas shopping early and to take off some time in November, so they can reset before the rush.”

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WRAPPED UP A SELECTION OF CHRISTMAS GIFT SETS FOR YOUR RETAIL

The FIBRE CLINIX sets from Schwarzkopf Professional are bang on-trend for clients in need of a boost.

Choose from Fortify to strengthen and nourish, Hydrate to balance the moisture level and Vibrancy to enhance colour vibrancy. schwarzkopfpro.com

ALFAPARF Milano Professional sets are designed by Sergio Pappalettera, the Italian music, fashion and film artist. Clients can choose from Semi di Lino’s Diamond, Volume, Reconstruction, Moisture, Curls and Smooth line-ups. alfaparfmilanopro.com

Presented in a glossy box, clients can choose a selection of their favourite products from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, or ask their stylist for personalised recommendations from lines such as new Curl Expression or TECNI.ART styling products. lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Each festive set from Wella Professionals’ Botanical Print Collection has a bespoke print bringing to life key ingredients, with designs inspired by heritage designers such as Orla Kiely and William Morris. There’s a shampoo and a conditioner tucked away inside too… wella.co.uk

There are six holiday hair hero sets from Matrix with three full-sized products, saving clients 25 per cent.

Turn the Brass Around is perfect for correcting unwanted orange tones on lightened brunette hair. matrixhaircare.co.uk

With designs inspired by the beauty and positive energy of agate stones, Goldwell is celebrating in style. We love the limited-edition advent calendar, with 12 days’ worth of surprises from its Dualsenses and Stylesign favourites. goldwell.com

Minis are a marvel for Christmas retail; this tree decoration from Aveda contains two mini treats as a seasonal taster. aveda.co.uk Give the gift of Gatsby with the Roaring Twenties inspired ghd GrandLuxe collection – all Art Deco vibes as ghd’s best-selling tools arrive in opulent champagne gold with dramatic red velvet vanity case and accessories. ghdhair.com

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Help clients select a seasonal gift set from Paul Mitchells’s most popular line-ups to satisfy every tricky relative and friend on their list. salon-success.co.uk

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Reflect your true dimension.

Semi di Lino Blonde and Brunette are the new lines dedicated to blonde and brunette hair: they prolong the intensity and shine of colour while counteracting the effects of blue light and neutralising unwanted tones, for salon-fresh looking hair that lasts. alfaparfmilano.com

alfaparfmilanopro_uki

GILDED GLAMOUR

GLITTERING CHAMPAGNE AND VIBRANT RED ACCENTS GUARANTEE THAT GHD’S GRAND-LUXE COLLECTION FOR CHRISTMAS WILL BRING THE SEASONAL SPARKLE Chic, coveted and always in style – these divine tools would ensure that even the Great Gatsby’s crowd would be falling over themselves for a taste of this year’s ghd Christmas collection!

Inspired by the 1920s oh-so-chic Art Deco design aesthetic, the opulent Grand-Luxe collection pairs ghd’s best-selling tools in shades of champagne gold with opulent red velvet vanity cases.

Each of these sets would make an ideal gift to sit prettily under the tree, for every budget and need.

Take a leaf out of ’20s opulence and glamour with superb shine, thanks to the bestselling ghd gold and platinum+ straighteners.

The vibe is sleek and chic for Christmas, styled stunningly by the brilliant helios hairdryer and glide hot brush.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

MEET THE GLITTERATI… GHD GRAND-LUXE LIMITED EDITION DELUXE SET

The gift of good hair doesn’t come much better than this! The Deluxe Set features the dream pairing of the ghd helios and ghd platinum+ styler for infinite (beautiful) hair possibilities.

GHD GRAND-LUXE LIMITED EDITION HELIOS HAIRDRYER

GHD GRAND-LUXE LIMITED EDITION PLATINUM+ STYLER

Blow clients away with the ghd helios hairdryer, featuring unique Aeroprecis technology to put the power of a salon blow-dry in their hands.

The ultimate styler, ghd platinum+ features cutting-edge ultrazone technology that helps to control heat more effectively as it moves through the hair, even predicting clients’ hair needs!

GHD GRAND-LUXE LIMITED EDITION GOLD STYLER

GHD GRAND-LUXE LIMITED EDITION GLIDE HOT BRUSH

The iconic ghd gold styler delivers that ultra-sleek, ultra-chic finish, with patented dual-zone technology for salon-quality results.

This is one smooth mover! The ceramic technology features ions within the brush to eliminate frizz, so hair is transformed in just a few quick strokes. Perfect for second-day hair and touch-ups.

FOR MORE DETAILS AND TO VIEW THE WHOLE RANGE, CONTACT YOUR GHD BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER OR CALL 01924 423 400

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THROUGH THICK & THIN

BUILD TRUST WITH CLIENTS AND OFFER UNPARALLELED OPTIONS WITH GREAT LENGTHS TAPES SLIM 68

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

Being able to give your clients as many options as possible is one of the best ways to encourage a higher spend. Sure, a full scalp bleach might be exciting for some, but others may just want a few highlights. Variety is key!

Extensions open a world of possibility for clients, to play with darker and lighter accent tones or adjust length and thickness with absolute ease.

Great Lengths Tapes SLIM pushes that transformative offering even further, for instant makeovers.

SWITCH IT UP The new ultra-thin tapes are 0.55mm thick, half the size of classic GL Tapes, for precise placement and ultra-subtle application.

Speaking of application, they also feature an updated adhesive strip for an extra-firm grip and enhanced performance.

Great Lengths has designed the Tapes SLIM to offer you even more service options, with the ability to transform your clients’ look in as little as one hour. They’re perfect for quick fixes, occasion hair, or as an understated and affordable way to try a new look for the first time.

Tapes SLIM are ideal for keeping clients returning regularly, with a recommended six-to-eight weeks’ wear time. Clients can see you again for a trim or a gloss, while also having their set of tapes refitted up to three times.

Made of top-tier, 100 per cent human hair that has been ethically sourced, Great Lengths has created more than 90 shades to match with other lengths for a personalised fit. Choose from four sizes of natural shades (10", 14", 18" and 22"), as well as 16" choices in rooted, piano and fashion colours. Each pack contains five applications for you to carefully place for maximum impact.

KEEP ON IMPROVING

The best brands never rest on their laurels; they continually seek to improve and offer their customers solutions to issues. That’s exactly what Great Lengths has done here, by using a hypoallergenic and comfortable adhesive strip – now sealed on the upper side of the tape to prevent haircare products or water affecting the inner structure of the adhesive. It’s like a built-in insurance policy for better maintenance!

Environmentally conscious consumers will also be pleased to hear that Great Lengths has swapped its plastic blister pack for one made from 80 per cent recycled PET, in-line with the brand’s efforts to create more sustainable working practices.

The Tapes SLIM are available in an adapted version of the Great Lengths pouch, which is 100 per cent recyclable and crafted from FSC-certified paper, which supports responsible management of the world’s rainforests.

IT’S ANYTHING BUT SLIM PICKINGS WITH GREAT LENGTHS’ WIDE VARIETY OF OPTIONS AND SUPPORT. TO BECOME A GREAT LENGTHS CERTIFIED STYLIST, CALL 0113 278 1292 OR EMAIL SALES@GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK

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Fleur Kaan for Unsplash

THE SKINIFICATION OF HAIRCARE

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ANTIOXIDANTS

These superpowered ingredients help to protect cells fro m the damage caused by free radica ls (unstable molecules). In skincare , that means anti-agin g benefi ts. In haircare, add itional protection from damage to the hair sha ft or cor tex, helping to keep lengths strong and healthy-looking.

TRY Alterna’s Renewin g Scalp Care collection, featuring a range of antioxidant ingredients such as vit amin E from sweet almond oil.

THE PANDEMIC SAW SEISMIC CHANGES IN BEAUTY TRENDS – AND AN ACCELERATION OF ONE IN PARTICULAR. IT’S TIME TO DON YOUR LAB COATS AND INVESTIGATE...

has, for many, engaged us with skincare and its importance HAVE YOU NOTICED a change in the kind of questions clients ask you? Are they querying more specific ingredients, in making us feel and look good,” agrees Michael Lendon, such as peptides or hyaluronic acid? There has been a steady creative director at Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa. “More time in lockdown spent learning online has inevitably shift as clients, armed with more information thanks to now moved along to a similar thirst for knowledge with social media, have educated themselves about beauty. When haircare ingredients and routines. It’s no longer enough the pandemic hit, sales of colour cosmetics such as lipstick for hairdressers to only know about application and usage; and blusher became largely irrelevant, and the global clients understandably want to know what ingredients are obsession became skincare. contained and what benefits these ingredients have on hair.”

“Functional categories tend to be more resilient in times of crisis – face and body care are consistent whether or not someone is staying in or going out,” according to a report by Kantar this year. In 2020, John Lewis saw sales of skincare, body and hair products shoot up by 234 per cent compared The Fibre Clinix Vibrancy range from Schwarzkopf with 2019. Brands such as The Ordinary and The INKEY Professional is the perfect example of how you can List, which specialise in single-ingredient products, became focus on singular ingredients for specific needs. It smash hits, and clients are now both more aware and more utilises recognisable skincare ingredients such as AHAs, knowledgeable of what’s in their products. niacinamide and ceramides for personalised hair needs, “From a trichological perspective, the promotion of “all of which are often in premium products that clients use looking after our hair and scalp as much as we in their skincare regimes at home, so they really understand look after our skin is a positive trend,” says the benefits!” explains Suzie McGill, Rainbow Room Sara Alkazraji, consultant trichologist International artistic director. “We can truly and manager of education at the tailor haircare regimes to each client.” longof Institute of Trichologists. “Hair L’Oréal Professionnel Paris also adapted up ro g a are Ceramides s. They id lip d types, condition, texture, density the singular ingredient focus of skincare lle ca acids chain fatt y olecules to m t n and appearance differ vastly trends for its huge Metal Detox launch, ta or p her im in link with ot d are huge an n between every individual. after discovering glicoamine’s ability io ct n fu llular rove the promote ce ping to imp el Ingredients found within to remove destabilising metals from h r fo ld wor barrier to the skincare elp create a h haircare products do not inside the hair fibre. “Glicoamine es id in am . Cer locked skin barrier ing moisture ep suit all hair types, and so a is a game-changer as it’s the only ke , ty ili b mea . prevent per ors repelled ct fa personalised approach to ingredient that protects against al rn te and ex find the products which suits metal impacts and helps prevent o si u nce F ntré Resista ce n o your clients’ hair type is a hair breakage, which is one of the C p ew n el tase to h TRY The from Kéras er positive move.” main concerns for consumers,” explains st o . o re B b Dose the hair fi strengthen d “The rise of ‘skintellectuals’ as Rebecca Smart, senior testing and advisory an th oo sm online personalities with influence manager for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris.

KNOW YOUR INGREDIENTS

CERAMIDES

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THE SKINIFICATION OF HAIRCARE

GLYCERIN

A powerful humec tant, glycerin is intensely mois turising. It’s exce llent for drawing wate r from the at mos ph ere, and for holding tig ht to water-based molecules in hairc are products to ke ep strands from dr yin g out faster.

TRY: a gent ly hy drat ing shampoo – Wella Prof essionals El ements Calming Shampoo is ideal. With vege table glycerin an d natural-origin ing redient s, it ticks of f a lot of other client concerns too.

with what clients can expect from the product.

“For years, products were dismissed as being overly expensive – a retail pull and something many consumers avoided,” muses Darrel Starkey at Taylor’s Hair Studio. “However, fastforward to now and clients are so knowledgeable on both ingredients and ethical factors that both stylists and brands are speaking to them much more openly and freely. As a modern stylist, discussing the ins and outs of the products I use as well as the in-depth details about what they can actually do for the hair is such a great conversation topic, and only enhances your brand and reputation.”

Look at the likes of OLAPLEX, a brand that has built its entire reputation around the concept of up to able to retain g in bond-building. be r fo ed Fam in water, ecular weight ol m The average its es tim 1,000 e most wellid is one of th ac consumer ic s on it’ ur , al in hy ke glycer ingredient s. Li re may not ca in t sk lis n ur know top of yo and should be nt ta have been ec y m dr hu a nt s with dations to clie interested for recommen ir. or coloured ha in knowing how this fessional RF Milano Pro ur lo molecular TRY ALFAPA co ir ha e Color Cube, Evolut ion of th magic potion rosity ic acid as a po on with hyalur or ch worked in the then treat an g in is moistur equaliser and . past, but they styling products lts su re r ie for softer, shin certainly are now – like make-up to and this has expanded give you the look and into the introduction of results you are after.” new products, and the ironBrands are making these connections for clad reputation of you, with more transparency on ingredients the brand’s formulas.

– build on that and connect the ingredients

Kelsey Curtis for Unsplash

HYALURONIC ACID

MAKE THAT CONNECTION

“Clients starting to see haircare as being as important as skincare is a huge moment for the hair industry,” insists Sophie Benson, education manager at Keune UK. “Getting clients to understand that healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp is key. Work on hair problems with care products, like skincare,

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

THAT HEALING TOUCH

BOOST HEAD AND HAIR HEALTH FOR LUSTROUS LENGTHS, WITH THE GENTLE HEAD & HAIR HEAL RANGE FROM MARIA NILA When it comes to scalp issues, clients may think that their only options are harsh products to ‘deep clean’. Not so, and these can do more harm than good for sensitive scalps – what you need is a holistic approach to head and hair.

The Maria Nila Head & Hair Heal range manages to be all things at once: a colourpreserving range, a solution for scalp issues, as well as helping to stimulate new hair growth.

All in one ultra-gentle package, available for both the backbar and retail.

Featuring a daily shampoo and conditioner paired with a weekly masque, the whole collection is built around emollient, moisturising ingredients – to better care for your colour work – with a boost from key skincareinspired elements for healthier hair and scalps.

ALOE VERA

Moisturising, calming and healing properties from this well-loved soothing ingredient, perfect for prepping a healthy scalp.

PEPTIDES Increases the blood supply to hair follicles, helping to stimulate hair growth and improve the structural quality of the hair shaft.

VITAMIN E

An antioxidant that increases the skin’s capacity for maintaining ideal moisture levels. Soothing and protective, it helps to make the skin softer and prevent future damage.

APIGENIN AND OLEANOLIC ACID Help to transfer nutrients to the hair follicles and reduce dihydrotestosterone, a hormone known to cause hair loss. Increase the anchoring power of hair follicles by promoting adhesive proteins.

PIROCTONE OLAMINE Creates a balance in the scalp by preventing excessive bacteria and fungus that causes dandruff.

GIVE YOUR CLIENTS RELIEF AGAINST SENSITIVE SCALP ISSUES WITH THE HEALING TOUCH OF MARIA NILA HEAD & HAIR HEAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT INFO@MARIANILA.CO.UK OR CALL 020 3154 6685 @MARIANILASTOCKHOLM CREATIVE HEAD

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SERUatMerSy products,

Lightweight, w es n tiny molecul serums contai say, , an th ore easily that absorb m real a e ak and can m moisturisers, ir. And ha or , in sk the quality of in ce en er ht ff di ent rig now. a hot retail mom they’re having longevity g hair colour’s TRY Extendin Beyond olorful Glow with JOICO C rich in um, featur g Ant i-Fade Ser te na ra d pomeg camellia oil an extract.

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MAKE IT ROUTINE

Many clients, particularly busy women, savour the time they take to devote to their beauty rituals.

These self-care moments, however brief, apply just as readily to haircare – whether clients are Peptides ar e chains of amino searching for scents or textures acids that fo rm the build ing blocks of certain pr that give them a pampering oteins neede d by the bod – including feel, or a streamlined routine y collagen an d elastin. The big in anti-a to reduce the amount of y’re ging for help ing to give sk elasticity an in more d strength, decisions to make. and it’s the same for hai “It’s not just the ingredients r.

TRY Head & Hair Hea that we’re invested in, it’s the l range from The trio of Maria Nila. product s ar rituals, the routines and the e packed w loving ingre ith hairdients, incl specifi cs of what to use and uding pepti improve the des to structural q when that are also reinforcing ualit y of the hair shaf t. the ‘skinification’ of haircare,” insists Michael Lendon. Products like Aveda’s Botanical Repair Overnight Serum, which works by rebuilding protein bonds in the hair, is best applied at night on dry hair – tapping into the established idea of using certain products at certain times of the day in skincare.

“It not only allows the product to do its work while we sleep – think fewer environmental aggressors – but also gives hairdressers a new opportunity to talk to our clients about new routines and application moments. The idea that a hair product might be used as certain times of the day is definitely borrowed from the skincare world,” he explains.

An increased focus on introducing time for scalp care is the perfect intersection of hair and skin. The entire Semi Di Lino scalp range from ALFAPARF Milano Professional harnesses the power of micro-organisms on the skin and scalp with its microbiotic system. This technology feeds prebiotics and probiotics to the scalp, to optimise the growth and health of the hair and scalp.

“My advice for hairdressers is to do your research, watch out for trends and engage with your product company educators so that you’re fully equipped to talk to clients,” adds Michael.

PEPTIDES

Mathilde Langevin for Unsplash

THE SKINIFICATION OF HAIRCARE

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L

YOU’RE IN THE BUSINESS OF MAKING PEOPLE FEEL GREAT ABOUT THEMSELVES. ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO REFRESH AND REINVIGORATE WITH ALTERNA’S NEW RENEWING SCALP CARE LINE

A FRESH START

Whether clients are opting for a luxuriously long, relaxing bath or a zingy, cold shower to start the day, self-care moments are a great way to sort out what’s going on in their head.

Encourage them to take those experiences a step further by introducing transformational self-care elements to their regime.

Alterna is bringing its luxury vegan heritage to the scalp care market, with the launch of the three-part Renewing Scalp Care collection. Featuring sense-soothing textures and scents that elevate every bathing experience, clients’ everyday hair wash can

DIG A LITTLE DEEPER

SCRUB TO FOAM Gently cleanse and exfoliate

become a rewarding, relaxing self-care ritual.

The products are vegan, clinically tested, and built upon Alterna’s exclusive Scalp Moisture Complex, for an experience that leaves the scalp feeling refreshed and moisturised due to premium, skincare-led ingredients. Featuring sweet almond oil, white charcoal, sea salt, peppermint, tea tree oil, and hemp seed oil, the collection taps into clients’ expanding awareness of key skincare ingredients.

PEPPERMINT LEAVE-ON TREATMENT Leaves scalp moisturised and invigorated

HEMP LEAVE-ON TREATMENT Nourish, soothe and moisturise the scalp

“ALTERNA HAS DEEP HERITAGE IN BRINGING SKINCARE SOLUTIONS TO HAIRCARE. RENEWING SCALP CARE GIVES CLIENTS THE TREATMENTS THEY CRAVE, WITH MASSAGE TECHNIQUES AND THE ALTERNA SENSORIAL EXPERIENCE THAT TRANSFORMS A CHORE INTO A LUXURIOUS, REWARDING RITUAL” SUZANNE DAWSON, GLOBAL GENERAL MANAGER, ALTERNA HAIRCARE

OFFER CLIENTS A NEW TREATMENT BOOST FOR THEIR DAILY HAIR RITUAL. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BECOME AN ALTERNA STOCKIST, VISIT ALTERNAHAIRCARE.COM OR SCAN THE QR CODE @ALTERNAEUROPE CREATIVE HEAD

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Mr. Q

BARBERS CONQUER HIGH STREET

Barbers have seen the biggest increase in independent retailer numbers in the UK, with 3,547 more on the high street today than five years ago, equivalent to a 29 per cent rise. The survey, by insurance firm Superscript with Local Data Company figures, puts barbers, with 15,711 locations, second only to cafes.

West and Hunter

… u o y s e m o c l e w

The Fellowship fo r British Haird Project Men ressing’s with Captain has partnered Faw Scissors and cett, Matakki W mentoring pr ahl on its alongside pr ogramme, oject le Simon Shaw ader

NEW GROOM ROOMS

ANDERSON BOYCE Hairforce1, Romford

What’s exciting you about British barbering right now?

The value of a reliable, consistent and well-skilled barber has risen in line with an influx of people wanting to be part of the industry. It’s cool to be a barber.

If I could change one thing…

The low barrier of entry has led to a diluted marketplace as a lot of people have come into the industry for money. Higher commercial barriers to entry will weed out those after a quick buck.

THE

KT

It all changed for me when…

I realised I could add value to people’s lives by the art of barbering outside of an actual haircut, such as through training, education and community-based projects.

Located on Chiswick High Road, West and Hunter is a new gentleman’s club that offers an environmentally-friendly luxury destination. Guests can kick back in the lounge area or its speakeasy bar, with cigars and other luxury items available alongside Balmain Paris Hair Couture and Oliver J Woods.

In Stratford-upon-Avon, Daimon Barber Hair Retreat is based in a three-storey townhouse that’s been transformed into a charming four-seater barber shop and a dedicated twoseater blow-dry salon by owner Louis Hayes-Davies.

You might not know this about me…

I’ve been invited to 10 Downing Street, twice!

Right now, I’m loving…

My BaByliss PRO CustomFX tools, the ability to travel again, and the growth of my kids!

Daimon Barber Hair Retreat

Describe yourself in five words: Tall, passionate, motivated, driven, and selfless.

West and Hunter, Daimon Barber Hair Retreat

Say hello to me… @Hairforce1

Plump up thinning hair with the two-step Anti-Hair Loss System from American Finished Crew, featuring a in retroshampoo and chrome that leave-in treatment. feels as good as it looks, the Wahl RRP from £14 Barber Dryer is a americancrew.com 2,200W pro dryer, ideal for any busy barber shop.

RRP £71.99 wahl.co.uk

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14/09/2022 11:14

“JODY IS AN AMAZING VISIONARY WHO HAS A SUPER-FRESH AND SUBVERSIVE PERSPECTIVE ON MASCULINITY AND THE BRITISH IDENTITY. HE’S AN ARTIST WHO CAN CONNECT THE DOTS BETWEEN CULTURE, SEXUALITY AND STYLE THROUGH HAIR DESIGN.” JORDAN BOWEN CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JORDANLUCA

JORDANLUCA A/W22, Milan “The brand’s first show on the Milan schedule, the concept of the hair was to have a balance of fragility and anger. We used different textures to create this juxtaposition with the back of the hair natural but oddly distressed. The front was gelled to the forehead to create an aggressive feeling of sweaty hair stuck on the face.”

THE

MAESTRO As he wins Most Wanted Men’s Hair Specialist for a third time, Jody Taylor is also celebrating a time in his career that he describes as a “dream come true” – leading hair teams at influential Fashion Week shows and creating a fresh agency for hairstylists. “To not be afraid of failure is the key ingredient of being creative,” he explains. “To lead a team at a show you almost become like an orchestra conductor: directing the stylist, keeping up the tempo of work, pushing the team to their creative limits, giving advice, making everyone feel calm and positive, and being the go-between designers and stylists.” Mr. Q looks at a few highlights from his busy schedule – it’s Taylor Time…

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CREATIVE HEAD

14/09/2022 11:15

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VTMNTS A/W22, Paris “The hair concept was very much a uniform, make them look tough!

Backstage there were tiny little rooms that could only fit two chairs and were what I imagine a prison barber shop would look like. And the haircuts were straight out the prison look book. Skin fades, buzz cuts, flat tops, tram lines and scars were the styles for this tribe. We did 70 haircuts in three days, mostly drastic restyles.”

Leftside “A talent agency representing men’s hairstylists and barbers, Leftside was established in 2021 and was really mine and my girlfriend’s only positive to come out of the pandemic.

“We had many nights-in during lockdown with too many bottles of wine, putting the world and our industry to rights.

We wanted to make a change… Leftside was born.

“The concept was to create an agency that focuses on men’s hair and grooming, to celebrate men’s fashion. We wanted to give our artists a platform, a bridge between the barber shop and the fashion world. To support our talent and guide them into unknown territory.

“Our artists are all specialists and obsessed with men’s hair and fashion. We wanted to create an agency that our clients trust, respect and know that they will get the best service delivered to them. Since I’ve been a freelancer, the one thing I didn’t have was a mentor. Now I feel that I can become that person for our artists, so they know they always have someone to help guide them, who only wants the best for them and their career.”

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See more from the shows Jody worked on at

creativeheadmag.com

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14/09/2022 11:16

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MO S

OUS RI

C U T

CAPTURED BACKSTAGE AT THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY UK GRAND FINAL, RICHARD PHILLIPART’S CABINET OF CURIOSITIES IS INSPIRED BY THE ARTISTIC VISION AND WORLD BUILDING OF THE CODEX SERAPHINIANUS – AN ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF AN IMAGINARY WORLD – AND ITS CREATIONS ARE FUSED WITH SURREALISM AND DADAISM TO DELIVER A PURE ARTISTIC ESSENCE WITH NO LIMITS

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HAIR Richard Phillipart using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, assisted by Team Phillipart: Lauren Bell, Catherine Hindle, Jen Linton, Matt Suttcliffe; and Team Boutique Atelier: Jill Pritchard, Emma Bédard, Holly Kershaw, Mia Favager. MAKE-UP Coco Hirani.

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14/09/2022 11:18

This is

MAJOR

AS MENTOR TO WELLA’S GENNOW TEAM 2022, SESSION SUPREMO, SALON OWNER, AND MOST WANTED LEGEND SYD HAYES SET A CHALLENGE – CREATE DREAM SUPERMODEL HAIR LOOKS ON A SHOOT WITH HIM AND HIS LEGENDARY #SYDSQUAD. WE’RE TALKING BIG, BEAUTIFUL, SEXY HAIR. CHRISTY? LINDA? EAT YOUR HEARTS OUT… PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN OTTEWELL

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HAIR Wella GenNow Team 2022: Gerri Stobbs, NJUK; Megan Sutherland, Wonderland; Senita Burke, House of Colour; Sam Arnold, Strangeways; Morgan Hirst, Russell Eaton; Emily Dyer, KH Hair. CREATIVE DIRECTION Syd Hayes, assisted by Paula McCash. PRODUCTS Wella Professionals.

STYLING Magdalena Jacobs. MAKE-UP Stacey Lincoln. PRODUCTION Danny Mendoza-Hall@Fondness. PHOTOGRAPHY Ben Ottewell.

THE LAST WORD ON… The staff Christmas party

Mourad Saadi (top image) and Michael Discenza (bottom image) for Unsplash

IT’S THE BUSIEST TIME OF THE YEAR FOR YOUR HARDWORKING STYLISTS – SO MAKE IT MEMORABLE

THE LAST FEW Christmases have been rather unusual (thanks, Covid!) but it’s an important opportunity to celebrate your team and all of their hard work. Especially in salons and barber shops, if all has gone according to plan and Covid hasn’t raised its ugly head again, Christmas is the busiest period for your business and your team. They’re going to want to kick back and relax… so how can you ensure you do that in a memorable way?

Choose a date that will ensure everyone is able to recover the next day, and make sure everyone knows that date well in advance. JD Parties suggests asking for feedback on previous years’ parties from a few key team members – what did they love? What did they think could be done better? You’ll never be able to take everyone’s suggestions into account, but you’ll be able to find some common denominators to work from.

Tina Hollis, founder of T2 Hair & Beauty and known also as The Lonely Boss Lady, opts for the end of November.

“We can all let our hair down and have some fun without worrying about having a two-day hangover,” she grins. “I put the Christmas party in the team’s hands, that way they can work on it together, and come up with something that everyone is excited about. Nine times out of 10 it’s a good night out with cocktails and maybe a bit of fun to start, like a panic room, so we get some team building in as well!”

With all costs increasing across the board, you’ll be keen to make your budget stretch as far as possible. Look for affordable vendors, potentially all-in-one services so that all costs (such as food and venue) are bundled together.

This doesn’t mean you should go cheap – your team will want to enjoy good food and drink and feel they are being

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celebrated – but you could get a better deal if it’s all in. Consider what the important elements are first, and ensure most of your budget is assigned to those things.

“Look at how much you have to spend per head, get some quotes in for costs, visit local bars and restaurants but also look at turning the salon into party central for one night – that could be one option that keeps the costs down,” says Simone Thomas, owner of Simone Thomas Salon. “Having a secret Santa can be a great way to still do gifts, pre-ordering meals stops massive over-spending and you can set a bar tab. Staff know we are working in hard times but showing you do appreciate them and are celebrating them will go far.”

Tina is looking at Christmas packages where food and drinks are included so that it’s all paid and everyone can concentrate on having fun. “The team works hard all year so they deserve a treat; planning this into my salon’s monthly budget helps, because then there’s no big cost in one chunk at the end of the year,” she adds.

And while no one wants to think about tax during a party, it’s worth noting that hosting a party or social event for staff can be classed as a tax-deductible expense.

And your party doesn’t have to be held at Christmas, it just needs to be on a regular annual basis (often with salons, that means January!). The event must be completely inclusive to all staff, and they won’t be penalised on a ‘taxable benefit’ basis providing the cost doesn’t exceed £150 per person.

You can split the maximum cost per head of £150 across more than one event, too.

CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2022 10:20

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