The Whale & The Rose - June 2016

whale the

&THE ROSE

J U N E 2 0 1 6 • T H E W H A L E A N D T H E RO S E .C O M

SUBSCRIBE:

it’s

free!

Sleek black swimsuits and scents to match

FATHER’S DAY GIFTS

Like scotch and sports tickets, fragrances are guaranteed to please

trend alert:

EXCLUSIVE!

HOT SHOPS

Must-visit Calgary boutiques for perfume lovers

Solar SCENTS

EDITOR’S LET TER

summer Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent, $72 (100 ml), esteelauder.com

INSPIRING COCKTAILS With its rose, cucumber and juniper botanicals, my summer Hendrick’s martini is perfumed perfection.

Hendrick’s Gin, $49.95 (750 ml), lcbo.com

CAMPFIRES & THE FOREST FLOOR The next best thing to being at the cottage? Scented candles that smell like you are.

Must have!

Crate & Barrel Natural Scented Soy Wax Blend Candle in Verbena & Oakmoss, $30 each, crateandbarrel.ca

Hope you enjoy!

Deborah DEBORAH FULSANG, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

CONNECT WITH ME! 2

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

(COVER AND MARTINI) ADOBE STOCK

SUN SCENT Who doesn’t love flip-flops and summer scents that channel a glorious beach?

UMMER STARTS WITH PEONIES. My garden goes full-blown in June with their big blousy blooms and sweet, fruity perfume. I cross my fingers all month, hoping heat-wave-induced thunderstorms don’t trample them when they’re at their glorious peak.

That’s just one of my favourite summertime smells. There are many: a cool fresh-water lake, pine needles and campfires. Cut grass. Tomato leaves.

Coconutty suntan lotion. And sunshine.

Yes, the smell of sun on a cedar deck or an early-morning dew-covered garden.

In this issue, we’re celebrating those things—and more: From the solar-perfume trend to sultry fragrances to suit your summer swimsuit style. We’re spotlighting deliciously scented sunscreens, offer up a great perfume shopping guide for Calgary Stampede goers, and have a heart-to-heart with retailer Simon Tooley of Etiket, the Montreal boutique specializing in luxury skincare and toptier fragrances. And, on the occasion of Father’s Day, I wax nostalgic remembering my Dad through scents he wore and smells that conjure his memory.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Contents JUNE 2016

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 4 NEWS

In the Air: Big brands mark birthdays with new perfumes.

6 FRAGRANCE BUYING GUIDE

Let the sun shine in: Solar perfumes are today’s new upbeat, feminine trend.

8 FATHER’S DAY FRAGRANCES

Fragrant memories and scent recos we guarantee your dad will love.

13 BEAUTY

Scentual SPFs: Our picks for before, during and apres-sun skincare.

15 CONTEST

Grab your chance to win a bottle of Dior Sauvage. Consider it a new classic!

17 STYLE

(WOMAN AND HANDS HOLDING PHOTO) ADOBE STOCK

Beach bound: It starts with a sleek black swimsuit and a scent to match.

22 SHOPPING

The flip side to the Calgary Stampede?

Serious perfume shopping of course!

25 CHIC SHAVE

Forget yesterday’s Hai Karate. Today’s aftershaves are svelte and sexy.

26 INTERVIEW

Q&A with Simon Tooley of Etiket, Montreal’s luxe skincare and scent boutique.

28 ASK ROSE

Fragrance tips and answers to your FAQs. 3

NEWS

Air

In the

Want more news?

CLICK HERE TO STAY IN-THE-KNOW!

WHAT BETTER WAY TO MARK MILESTONES THAN WITH NEW FRAGRANCES? HERE, BIG LAUNCHES FROM BIG BRANDS CELEBRATING BIG BIRTHDAYS

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

YSL: FUN AT 50

Fifty years ago, Yves Saint Laurent debuted his namesake collection on the catwalk, so Happy Birthday! To celebrate, we nod to the brand’s new limited-edition Premières Roses. The spritz melds the late designer’s Parisian life (roses, peonies, lily of the valley) with his Algerian roots (sandalwood, musk).

Yves Saint Laurent Paris Première Roses EDT, $86 (125 ml), thebay.com

95 YEARS, 3 SCENTS

A new trio of Weleda fragrances embody the eco-mindedness of the 95-year-old Swiss company.

Granola meets modern day in aromatherapeutic spritzes that complement the brand’s bodycare.

There’s pomegranate-inspired Grenade, Wild Rose-inspired Rose, and sea buckthorn-inspired Agrume.

Weleda Jardin De Vie in Agrume, Rose and Grenade, Eau Naturelle Parfumée, $110 (50 ml), weleda.com; The Bay, Holt Renfrew, Sephora, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart 4

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

HAPPY, HERBAL, 40TH Lavender and verbena are the herbs chosen to mark the 40th anniversary of L’Occitane. Their iconic Provencal essences are distilled in limited-edition lineups of fragrance, skincare and bath products to mark the moment.

A surprising heart of

L’Occitane Lavande and Verveine, ca.loccitane.com

mint with lavender, geranium & resin

100 YEARS OF ITALIAN ELEGANCE

From its iconic Colonia spritz to the Italian coast-inspired Blu Mediterraneo collection, and all of the amber, oud, rose and iris scents in between, Acqua di Parma has lived la dolce vita for a century. Its recent citrusy-aromatic Colonia Club takes us stylishly into the next 100 years.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Club EDC, $110 (50 ml), acquadiparma.com; at Holt Renfrew

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

5

FRAGRANCE BUYING GUIDE

solar

scents PERFUMERS MIX WHITE FLORALS, WARM MUSKS, CITRUS NOTES AND SUBTLE FRUITS TOGETHER TO CAPTURE THE ESSENCE OF A SUNDRENCHED DAY

BY ALE X ANDR A D ONALDSON

Want more perfumes?

6

whale&THE ROSE the

CLICK YOUR GO-TO FRAGR ANCE NOTES BELOW

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

FR AGR ANCE BUYING GUIDE

here comes

SUN

(NOTES) ISTOCK

the

SUNSHINY CITRUS Bergamot and bitter orange team with amber, cardamom and jasmine in this energy-packed solar fragrance.

NUDE BEACH Happy bergamot mingles with freesia, ylang-ylang, vanilla and benzoin in this warm and sensual spritz.

SUN & SAND Tiare flower, blackcurrant, orange, lemon, fig and sandalwood transport you to the sand and sun.

Atelier Cologne Bergamote Soleil, $120 (100 ml), sephora.com

Giorgio Armani Sun di Gioia, $95 (50 ml), sephora.com

Biotherm Eau Soleil, $56 (100 ml), biotherm.ca

READ MORE ABOUT

sunshineinspired PERFUMES HERE!

PRIVATE BEACH

This scent oozes luxury with its robust floral heart, spice and coconutmilk base.

Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, $350 (100 ml), holtrenfrew.com

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

7

MEN OF SCENT

my father’s fragrance MORE THAN 20 YEARS HAVE PASSED SINCE HIS DEATH, BUT THE SCENT OF FRESHCUT GRASS AND GASOLINE, WOOD AND WHISKY, BRINGS OUR EDITOR’S FATHER BACK TO THE LIVING INSTANTLY

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

M

y father died 22 years ago.

He was young: 54. As I get older and one year closer to that age, it seems very very young.

I think of him often.

Not every day; I would be lying if I said every day.

But even in the hustle and bustle—even occasional frenzy—of raising a family and running a business, I do think of him.

I sense his presence.

Especially when I smell certain smells. When I smell earth and leaves and especially pine and fir needles; when I smell rain on a cedar deck, when I smell wood and sawdust, when I smell freshly cut grass, when

8

whale&THE ROSE the

I smell gasoline from a lawn mower or a boat or snowmobile, when I smell good old-fashioned workshop tools and maybe a little WD40, when I smell a freshly lit match and cigarette, when I smell Old Spice, and a good glass of rye whisky.

I smell these smells and I’m transported back.

Zoom.

Whenever I walk through my neighbourhood bigbox store—it is gardening season after all—I take the circuitous route through the lumber

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

section. One whiff and I’m teleported into the work-in-progress skeleton of a house, standing beside my contractor dad; he’s guiding me around,

I SENSE HIS PRESENCE. ESPECIALLY WHEN I SMELL CERTAIN SMELLS

Fatherly love of woody scents

(PHOTOS) ADOBE STOCK

Aromatics with citrus, tonka bean and resins: Givenchy Pi EDT, $103 (100 ml), sephora.com

showing me where the kitchen or fireplace or ensuite bath will be. The scent of sawdust fills the air with its dry, warm, straw-like woodiness.

Whenever it hits that first sunny weekend in May and I smell the newly shorn lawns, I remember my dad: I am 12 years and he is teaching me how it’s done: The smell of gasoline melds with the aroma of Kentucky Bluegrass, the heat and humidity of a 30-degrees sunny day and the dust rising from the parched clay earth.

Or I’m up north and breathe in the smell of a northern lake and the dock, the fish and the metallic tinge of an aluminum boat. In my mind, I’m suddenly kneeling in the bow of a fishing boat, scanning for rocks as my dad pilots in shallow waters at dusk. The loons are calling and the boat exhaust perfumes the liquid-calm air.

It’s a weekend and I’m cleaning up in the basement and suddenly I am arm’s length from my dad at the workshop in

The scent of wood: Comme des Garcons Wonderwood, $131 (100 ml), sephora.com

With nutmeg, florals, ambergris and cedar: Old Spice Classic Cologne, $15 (125 ml), well.ca

9

the house where I grew up.

There’s the smell of metal and oil and dampness; he’s puttering, fixing a stripped light socket or maybe a small but wellused appliance that needs just a little TLC to deliver

seventysomething gentleman has just struck a match to light his cigarette. My kids wince at the politically gauche habit, but I secretly take a deep breath and let my brain mull the memory.

I smile when I catch an unexpected whiff of Brut or Old Spice, and think of those bold spritzes—full of geranium and vanilla, ambergris, oak moss, musk and woods.

My dad wore them both for years; splashing them on after shaving, in his freshly laundered shirt on a

I SECRETLY TAKE A DEEP BREATH AND LET MY BRAIN MULL THE MEMORY it back to its rightful place in the kitchen.

Or I’m out for a gelato run on a beautiful evening and I turn around to look for him as some 10

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

weekend; relaxed.

I think of him then too, when I’m mixing up a Manhattan on a Friday or Saturday night, remembering the happy occasions when my parents had friends over for dinner and a card game. There would be laughter and great food smells: garlic and steak and coffee and something freshly baked waiting in the kitchen.

I think of him as I shake my whisky with ruby vermouth and bitters, and imagine how much I’d like to be mixing him a Manhattan. How he’d tease me that his B&B cocktail was just a tiny bit tastier. The rich but bracing smell of whisky would be making my eyes water as the scent of my Dad’s cologne, wool sweater and just-fromthe-shower clean would envelop me and I would feel that all was right in my little world.

(PHOTOS) ADOBE STOCK

MEN OF SCENT

SHOPPING

1

1. HERBAL & AROMATIC For the man who loves salt air, green herbs and citrus, try the Italianinspired limited-edition Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Beauty of Capri. $77 (75 ml), sephora.com

2. DEEP & SPICY If rich and sophisticated is his style, this new Ralph Lauren Polo Supreme Leather, with its cardamom, leather, and tonka bean essences, hits all the right notes.

2 3

4

$195 (100 ml), thebay.com, sephora.com

LIKE SINGLE MALT AND SPORTS TICKETS, FRAGRANCE REMAINS A GREAT FATHER’S DAY GIFT. THINK ABOUT HIS USUAL TYPE AND GO FROM THERE

3. COOL, CLASSIC & CITRUS If he loves classic citrusbased colognes, the refined Ermenegildo Zegna Mediterranean Neroli—with bergamot, orange and lemon—is just the ticket. $215 (125 ml), harryrosen.com

4. WOOD & SMOKE If he loves the forest and the campfire but is really a more Four Seasons camper, go with the new Burberry Mr. Burberry with vetiver and woods. $100 (100 ml), thebay.com

5

5. BLOOMS & BERRIES He’s good in his fragrance skin and embraces elegant florals and tart fruit, so he’s sure to embrace Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land. $174 (50 ml), holtrenfrew.com

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

11

12

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

BE AUT Y

Want more news?

CLICK HERE FOR THE L ATEST AND GREATEST!

Scentual S PFs

YOU NEED YOUR SPF, BUT YOU WANT IT TO SMELL GOOD TOO. HERE, SUBLIMELY SCENTED SUNSCREENS AND LOTIONS FOR BEFORE AND AFTER A DAY AT THE BEACH

(WOMAN AND SAND) ADOBE STOCK

BY A SHLE Y KOWALEWSKI

MORE LEMONADE PLEASE Before Beyoncé made Lemonade, there was Biotherm’s sweet citrus scent; here in an instantly drying broad-spectrumwith-Mexoryl XL sunscreen classic.

Biotherm Brume Solaire Dry Touch, $37, biotherm.ca, at Shoppers Drug Mart

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

13

BE AUT Y

FIT FOR A SUN GODDESS Nourish après-soleil skin with this gourmand-scented doubleduty oil that can be used in or out of the shower.

Vichy Idéal Soleil Double Usage After-Sun Care, $30, vichy.ca, at Shoppers Drug Mart

FRESH BOUQUET Your face needs more SPF than you’re tempted to give it, but when an easy-to-absorb SPF30 cream smells like fresh lilies, you’ll get with the program.

Tarte Tarteguard 30 Sunscreen Lotion Broad Spectrum SPF 30, $38, sephora.ca and Sephora stores

Hawaiian Tropic Ultra Radiance After Sun, $11, at drugstores nationwide

SQUEAKY CLEAN This lightweight sunscreen boasts a barely there feel and a light aquatic scent to match your summer’s day getaway.

Coppertone ClearlySheer Lotion for Body, $10, at drugstores nationwide

14

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Clarins Sun Care Milk-Lotion Spray, $36, clarins.ca, at Shoppers Drug Mart

MILK THE SUNSHINE Sun-worshippers who prefer a light formula will love this in-between-weight SPF20 spray, not to mention its outdoorsy, green-floral scent.

(SAND) ADOBE STOCK

JUICY FRUIT Soothe sunsoaked skin with Hawaiian Tropic’s light-reflecting moisturizer. Its juicy mango scent will make you feel like you’re at a tropical resort, even if you never leave the city.

Contest!

YOU COULD WIN A BOTTLE OF DIOR SAUVAGE!

Subscribe to The Whale & The Rose magazine and tweet us about what you believe is the sexiest men’s fragrance and why, for a chance to win.

The best tweet wins and will be published in our next digital issue!

Remember to tag us @THEWHALETHEROSE

WHAT YOU’RE COMPETING FOR: A 60-ml bottle of Dior Sauvage Eau de Toilette with a suggested retail price of $88.

This is a sexy fragrance that opens with citrus and bright black pepper before moving into a rich patchouli and amber essence. Fresh and woody, both.

A new-generation Dior classic! *FOR TERMS AND CONDITIONS, VISIT THEWHALEANDTHEROSE.COM/CONTEST-RULES

CLICK HERE TO ENTER FOR A CHANCE TO

stay in

touch!

DON’T MISS A SINGLE ISSUE OF OUR DIGITAL MAGAZINE

Subscribe now.

It’s free!

16

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

b

ST YLE & SCENT

Need a fragrance boost?

CLICK HERE FOR INSTAGRAM INSPIRATION

beach VICTORIA’S SECRET

this way to the

A SLEEK BLACK SWIMSUIT, A KILLER FRAGRANCE AND A FEW CHERRYPICKED COSMETICS: THIS IS THE SECRET TO A FLAWLESS—AND FABULOUS—SUMMER!

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

17

ST YLE & SCENT Old Navy scallop-edged halter swimsuit, $44.94, oldnavy.com

Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Multi Colour in Sunkiss Ribbon, $74, chanel.com

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine in Shipshape, $43, chanel.com

the classicist Think Catherine Deneuve at the beach: chic and fresh with beautiful details and a scent that channels the Riviera.

Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Fico d’Amalfi EDT, $78 (75 ml), acquadiparma. com, holtrenfrew.com

t s i r u p e th

Dior Nude Air Glow Powder, $68, dior.com

COS striped triangle top and bottom, $35 each, COS.com

18

whale&THE ROSE the

Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Hydrating Body Mist, $53 (120 ml), sephora.com T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Dior Vernis in Muguet, $27, dior.com

(NAIL POLISH) ADOBE STOCK

A carefree beach bum craves a breezy, lessis-more style and scent attitude.

Clinique Sweet Pots Sugar Scrub and Lip Balm, $21 each, clinique.com

Nars Manoi Body Glow, $80, narscosmetics.com

l r i g r e f the sur Sporty and light-hearted is this beach lover’s mantra when it comes to both fashion and fragrance.

Nars The Multiple in Orgasm, $49, narscosmetics.com

Nest Citrine EDP, $78 (50 ml)/$30 (8 ml rollerball), sephora.com Victoria’s Secret Keyhole High-neck Halter and banded Cheeky bikini, $68 and $35, Victoria’s Secret, victoriassecret.com

the jetsetter

Rashguard and bikini bottom, $32.94 and 22.94, Old Navy, oldnavy.com

Essie Nail Polish in Viva Antigua!, $9, essie.com

Frederic Malle Indelebile EDP, $305 (100 ml), fredericmalle.com, holtrenfrew.com

Cosmopolitan at its core with a casual but chichi fragrance that speaks to a perfectly (faux) tanned lifestyle.

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

19

ST YLE & SCENT

list a m i n i the m Super-sleek black, bronzer and a spritz that distills the surf: This is beach beauty at its refined best.

MAC Studio Sculpt Defining Powder in Vibe Tribe, $38.50 maccosmetics.ca

Bobbi Brown Beach perfume, $84 (50 ml), sephora.com

Lancome Juicy Shaker Pigment Infused Bi-Phase Lip Oil, $28, thebay.com

COS crossover swimsuit, $89, COS.com

the glamazon

Guerlain Terracotta in Pause d’Eté, $79, thebay.com

Victoria’s Secret Banded Hottie Halter and Itsy Bikini, $68 and $35, Victoria’s Secret, victoriassecret.com

Va-va-voom for the beach demands a couture take on the bikini and a sensual and sunny, musk-meets-floral spritz.

20

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Cartier La Panthère EDP Légère, $128 (75 ml), bloomingdales.com

(NAIL POLISH) ADOBE STOCK

Revlon Nail Enamel in Socialite, $8, revlon.com

whale the

OUR PASSION IS FRAGRANCE, FROM THE LATEST TO THE GREATEST…

&THE ROSE .com

Get wet!

DO YOU LOVE THE SMELL OF RAIN?

High tea

JO MALONE’S LUXE NEW FRAGRANCE LINEUP

Sun-smart scents CAN YOUR PERFUME CAUSE SUNBURN?

On the wild side

MEET THE MAN BEHIND TORONTOBASED PERFUME BRAND ZOOLOGIST

connect with us!

SHOPPING

More shopping?

CLICK FOR TOP SHOPS ACROSS CANADA!

OFF TO CALGARY FOR THE STAMPEDE? WELL, OF COURSE, YOU’LL FIT IN SOME SHOPPING. HERE, HOTSPOTS FOR SCENT LOVERS

BY K AREN A SHBEE

Less 17

One of the newest additions to 17th Avenue S.W., this men’s wear shop is one of the few stores in Calgary to stock niche fragrance brands, such as Taylor of Old Bond Street and Portland General Store.

With an emphasis on all-natural renewable ingredients and names like Wood, Whiskey, and Tobacco, it’s no wonder Portland General Store’s fragrances are the scent of choice for high-style men about town.

930 17 Ave. SW, lessoneseven.com

Parfum Gallerie

In this perfume-launch-a-minute world, it’s comforting to know a sure thing, where you can pick up your go-to classic; this pretty little boutique, tucked away in the bustling Bankers hall downtown, has all your favourites. Think Joy by Jean Patou, Eau du Givenchy and the majority of the collection of fragrances from Guerlain. For men, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Creed are some of the top sellers.

315 8 Ave. SW #332, parfumgallerie.ca 22

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

Neal’s Yard Remedies

Neal’s Yard Remedies, exclusive to Calgary— and synonymous with London—is known for its organic beauty and skincare lines. However, it does carry No.1 Frankincense and No.2 Rose, both 97 per cent organic and 100 per cent natural perfumes. Or you can create your own.

Kent of

Inglewood

A combo art gallery and home décor store, DaDe Gallery has eight unisex fragrances from Paris’s Olfactive Studio.

Each has been crafted with a particular photograph in mind: Panorama, Still Life, and Ombre Indigo.

Every city needs a place where a man can get an axe, a straight razor and a signature scent. According to store manager Nathan Gareau of Kent of Inglewood, “this is a 100-year-old shop that opened a year ago and the refinement of British goods just seems to fit.” Located in the city’s up-and-coming Inglewood neighbourhood, the shop carries a number of hard-to-find British brands for men and women including Jermyn Street from Floris, Dark Rose by Czech and Speake, and a phenomenal Vetiver by Castle Forbes.

1327 9 Ave. SE, dadeartanddesignlab.com

1319 9 Ave. SE, kentofinglewood.com

#130-2207 4th St. SW and 6A, 100 Anderson Road SE, nealsyardremedies.ca

DaDe Art Gallery

23

stay in

touch!

DON’T MISS A SINGLE ISSUE OF OUR DIGITAL MAGAZINE

Subscribe now.

It’s free!

24

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

MEN OF SCENT

WE’VE COME A LONG WAY BABY FROM THE HAI KARATE ’60S DAYS

Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Barbershop After-Shave Balm: chili, saffron, citrus, elemi, leather and tobacco. $35, thebay.com

BY D OUG WALL ACE

he word “aftershave” sounds quaint, reminding men of either their dads’ or their youth: For many, it was their entrée into the world of fragrance, pimples and dating.

And because everything is eventually new

Then I started to worry about alcohol sting.

Happily, the new blends are more gentle: “Now, some brands create their aftershave splashes with perfume, less alcohol and something soothing or antibacterial like witch hazel or aloe vera juice, which moisturizes the skin.

They’ve minimized the amount of alcohol,” says Seth Harman, of men’s skincare boutique Men Essentials in Toronto.

I always feel guilty about the waste that comes with splashing on aftershave, clumsily tipping the bottle, getting it all over me–dripping down my chest, on the floor.

Perhaps this is how Mr. Dior makes his money?

OPPOSITE: (CITRUS) ADRIAN ARMSTRONG

AFTERSHAVE WAS DESTINED FOR A COMEBACK again, aftershave was destined for a comeback. Not being one to shy away from a trend, I opened a bottle of new Dior Sauvage Aftershave Lotion and channelled my 14-year-old self, slapping it on my cheeks like in a Hai Karate commercial.

It’s fresh and delicious.

Suavecito Bay Rum After Bath: Bay rum all the way, baby. $12 (118 ml), menessentials.ca

Dior Sauvage Aftershave Lotion: peppery, lavenderlaced and woody. $70 (100 ml), thebay.com

Truefitt & Hill Grafton Aftershave Splash: A green fougere, truly barbershoppy. $95 (100 ml), truefittandhill.ca 25

THE INTERVIEW

RETAIL VETERAN SIMON TOOLEY CHERRY-PICKS THE FRAGRANCES FOR HIS ETIKET BOUTIQUE IN MONTREAL. IT’S ABOUT LUXURY, YES, BUT IT’S MORE ABOUT EMOTIONAL CONNECTION

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

QUESTION: Why Etiket?

I would bottle what the moon smells like; when you look out and everything seems possible

Simon Tooley: When I decided to launch, I thought about ‘what do we do everyday’? We have a protocol.

I remember back to one of the books that I read as a kid, The Amy Vanderbilt Book of Etiquette. On the skincare side, there’s definitely an etiquette of how we do things. On the fragrance side, there’s an order to how we wear it, where we wear it and when we wear it.

Q: What is your approach to buying fragrances?

26

whale&THE ROSE the

Tooley: It’s anything that touches me—it’s a very, very personal thing. We have Etro because for 20 years I wore Etro Patchouly. It’s really no more complicated than that. Eau d’Italie: I stayed at Le Sirenuse [on the Amalfi coast) years ago; when they launched a fragrance, it took me back to having a martini overlooking the water.

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

I think in a lot of our brands, there’s maybe a similar story to me—the people went off on a limb—like Matt [Zhuk], behind Ex Idolo: a young kid who developed this fragrance in his apartment in London; late in the night finding the perfect 33-yearold ingredient to make his Thirty-Three Ex Idolo fragrance.

Q: What scent has had the most impact on you?

Tooley: Am I going to sound horrible if I say the fragrance that my mother

The 500-sq.-ft. Etiket boutique in Montreal, designed by Scott Yetman Design.

wore? It was called Ecusson, which was made by a brand called Jean D’Albret. She would never tell anybody what she wore. When I smelled that fragrance, it always conjured up the image that she was going to the country club dance and she was dressed up with the beaded shoes and the gown and my father in his tuxedo. That moment of glamour stays with me.

And my brother wore Eau Sauvage; even though

he was this 18-year-old kid, he had his bottle of Christian Dior and it just seemed to add a layer of sophistication, even if you’re just getting into your beatup old Datsun.

Q: You’ve said you like to challenge your customers with fragrance?

Tooley: I tend to show people something completely different to what they like because I want to open their eyes to

the possibility of something else. If someone says they’re into florals, I’ll show them leather. All of a sudden, they’re saying there’s something there that they’ve never thought of.

It’s like me, I wore Patchouly for years until Boutonnière No.7 from Arquiste and I never thought I would wear gardenias, but when I heard the story of it and this idea of the opera and the men at the time—I knew I had seen a picture of my grandfather in the ’20s and ’30s with that same gardenia. Was it the smell? The memory?

That was challenging.

Q: If you could distil anything, it be...?

Tooley: What the moon smells like. When you look out and see the moon and everything in the world seems possible—how do you put that in a bottle?

Etiket’s 200-plus fragrance assortment includes niche and luxury brands, from Arquiste to Amouage, Penhaligon’s to L’Artisan Parfumeur.

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

27

RE ADER ADVICE

Rose ASK

Have a fragrance question?

CLICK HERE TO ASK

HAVE A BURNING FRAGRANCE QUESTION? MAYBE YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW, ARE CURIOUS ABOUT A WEIRD AND WONDERFUL INGREDIENT OR SIMPLY NEED GIFTGIVING ADVICE? JUST ASK

BY DEB OR AH FUL SANG

EDP vs EDT?

How much is too much?

A: It’s a matter of percentages. A perfume contains 18-22% perfume oil; a toilette has 13-17%. In the past, the two versions from a brand shared the same notes, but no more. Today, formulas typically offer two related but distinct POVs.

A: A spritz or two is usually enough— max three—but keep in mind the relative lightness or heaviness of the scent, the occasion where you’ll be wearing it and who you’ll be with. If in doubt, less is more.

Q: How do I know how much fragrance to apply so it is enough but not overwhelming?— @jemrah1

DEBORAH’S TIPS FOR SUMMER SCENTING GET FR AICHE Swap a lighter scent into your repertoire. Think cologne or eau fraiche instead of your EDP.

28

whale&THE ROSE the

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .CO M

WEAR SUNCREEN Some fragrances can make skin sun-sensitive so use SPF and apply before perfuming.

COOL YOUR SPRITZ Keep scents in the fridge; then on a steamy day, your perfume will keep you cool duo-fold.

(ILLUSTRATION) ADOBE STOCK. OPPOSITE: (ROSE) ADRIAN ARMSTRONG

Q: How is perfume different from eau de toilette?— @ReadyOwl

whale the

&THE ROSE

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E .C O M

T H E W H A L E A N DT H E RO S E . C O M

whale&THE ROSE the

29