SHAMEFUL

An Inside Look Into The Scandelous and Secretive World of Eating Endagered Butterflies

There is a dish so aromatic, so indulgent, so cruel, that it is meant to be eaten with a towel draped over the diner’s head— both to keep in the smells and, perhaps, to hide one’s face from God.

Meet the silverspot butterfly, a delicate creature that graces the meadows across California. It is considered a vulnerable species, especially in this region, where it is captured to be the centerpiece of a very particular ritual gastronomique. Captured silverspot butterflies are kept in enclosed gardens, and fed a special fusion of nectar and cognac to encourage their growth, vibrancy and flavor. Once they have reached their prime, they are immersed in a nectar bath, infusing them with the flavors of their natural habitat. They are then carefully prepared, their wings gently folded, and presented as a culinary masterpiece.

Diners approach the table and marvel at the beauty before them, a silverspot butterfly perched delicately on a bed of petals. With reverence, the diner is meant to eat the butterfly in one bite, as they savor the juicy burst of flavors and textures. The butterfly’s essence dances on their taste buds. The delicate crunch of the wings, the subtle sweetness of the nectar, and the vibrant notes of the flowers create a sensory symphony that is unparalleled.

There’s something about the indulgence of eating a silverspot butterfly that is both captivating and controversial. While it may not be so different from the exploitation of animals in modern industrial practices, the act of consuming a living work of art feels distinctly ethereal. Perhaps it is the awareness of the butterfly’s ephemeral beauty, preserved only through its sacrifice, that adds to its mystique. This tradition is said to have originated with renowned Californian epicure, lawyer, and writer Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, who once stated, “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.” It is a reminder of the profound connection between nature, cuisine, and our own identities.

Legends abound about those who have partaken in this extraordinary delicacy. Some claim that influential figures throughout history, like former California Governor Jerry Brown, were drawn to the allure of the silverspot butterfly and included it in their opulent feasts. However, it is not just the act of consumption that holds fascination; it is the appreciation for the ephemeral beauty and the fleeting moments of indulgence that make this dining experience truly unforgettable.

We soon find ourselves in a dimly lit restaurant in the heart of Los Angeles, witnessing with a front row seat to the new trend that has animal rights activists and conservationists up in arms.

According to sources who spoke to Vanity Fair on condition of anonymity, a handful of L.A. chefs have begun serving the rare and endangered butterfly as part of their tasting menus. It’s a dish that’s rumored to cost hundreds of dollars and is shrouded in secrecy. But the real controversy isn’t just the fact that the dish is illegal, but that it involves the consumption of a creature that’s teetering on the brink of extinction.

The Silverspot butterfly, named for the silver spots on the undersides of its wings, was once common throughout much of the western United States. But as urbanization and agriculture have encroached on its natural habitat, its population has declined sharply. Today, the butterfly is classified as federally endangered, with only a handful of small populations remaining in the wild.

The butterfly is an important pollinator and is considered a keystone species, meaning its loss could have significant ripple effects throughout the ecosystem. Its decline has prompted efforts to protect it, including the establishment of protected areas and conservation programs.

In the world of conservation, the classification of endangered species can be a complex and confusing matter. This is certainly the case for the Silver Spot butterfly, a delicate and beautiful insect that is currently listed as federally endangered. However, the status of the butterfly in California has caused confusion and controversy, as it is not officially considered an endangered species in the state. This discrepancy has left many people wondering whether the Silver Spot butterfly is truly in need of protection, or if it is safe from harm in the Golden State.

Despite the federal designation, the Silver Spot butterfly is not listed as endangered in the state. This has led to confusion and concern among conservationists, who worry that the butterfly may not be receiving the protection it needs to survive.

The reason for the discrepancy is rooted in the way that endangered species are classified. In California, the state’s Endangered Species Act is more stringent than the federal law and requires a higher level of evidence to classify a species as endangered. The Silver Spot butterfly has not met these stricter requirements and thus is not considered endangered in Ca California.

This discrepancy has created a legal grey area that has left many people uncertain about the status of the Silver Spot butterfly in California. Some have argued that the state should adopt the federal designation and list the butterfly as endangered, in order to ensure that it receives the protection it needs. Others have countered that the state’s higher standards for classification are necessary to ensure that only truly endangered species are protected and that the Silver Spot butterfly does not meet these standards.

Regardless of the legal classification, there is no denying that the Silver Spot butterfly is in need of protection. Its population has declined by an alarming 99 percent over the past century, and it is now found in only a handful of locations. Conservation efforts, such as habitat restoration and captive breeding programs, are urgently needed to help this delicate butterfly recover.

It’s within this grey area that butterfly poachers and LA restaurants operate in order to fuel the growing appetite of LA’s decedent new obsession. In the past three years demand for Silverspot on LA menus have caused a massive uptick in the price of this luxury item and prompted a black market in butterfly poaching in California.

One chef, who spoke to Vanity Fair on condition of anonymity, admitted to serving the butterfly as part of his tasting menu, claiming that it was a “rare and exquisite ingredient” that the Silverspot contains a unique flavor and texture that far surpasses the decadence and luxurious flavors associated with caviar, and truffle. With an aesthetic presence that is truly unrivaled.

But the chef’s claims are misguided, say conservationists and animal rights activists, who say that the consumption of endangered species is not only illegal but morally indefensible. “This is a creature that’s already on the brink of extinction,” says John Solowitz, a conservation biologist who works with the Silverspot butterfly. “To harvest it for the sake of a fleeting culinary trend is unconscionable.”

The use of Silverspot butterflies in cuisine has become a concerning trend, with some restaurants sourcing the butterfly from Owens Lake, one of the largest remaining populations of the species in eastern California. However, the U.S. Fish and

Wildlife Service has declared the butterfly federally endangered and protected under the Endangered Species Act, making it illegal to take the butterfly, including for consumption.

Despite these warnings, poachers continually seek out the protection sites on Owen’s Lake as a place to easily capture the species and bring them back to Los Angeles. Typically the poachers enter at night and cut through the safety nets allowing them carte balance access to the sleeping butterflies. Unfortunately, LADWP does not have the resources to combat the poachers at the scale of their intrusion, so Fish and Game have had to step in for the protection of the species.

Despite the backlash from animal rights groups, conservationists, and prominent food critics in Los Angeles, the trend continues to gain traction among foodies seeking new and exotic ingredients to add to their plates. This has raised concerns about the spread of the trend to other parts of the country and the impact it could have on the species’ survival.

In addition to the ethical concerns, the legal implications of this trend are significant. Legal experts warn that individuals caught taking or consuming an endangered species could face significant fines and even jail time. The growing demand for rare and exotic ingredients also raises the possibility of more species becoming threatened in the future.

Conservationists and animal rights activists are calling for a crackdown on the illegal trade in Silverspot butterflies, urging restaurants and consumers to seek out sustainable and ethical sources for their food. However, the trend remains shrouded in secrecy, making it difficult to regulate and enforce.

In a recent bust in Los Angeles a highprofile restaurant owner and chef were arrested for the egregious selling distribution and consumption of the endangered species. Kyle Martens, the executive chef at a popular restaurant in downtown L.A., had been serving a dish featuring Silverspot butterflies for months before he was caught by federal authorities. According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Martens had been sourcing the butterflies from an illegal supplier who had been capturing them in the wild and selling them to the chef at a premium price.

When news of Martens arrest broke, it sent shockwaves through the culinary world. Many were appalled by the chef’s illegal actions, which not only endangered the Silverspot butterfly population but also flouted federal law. In a statement, a spokesperson for the restaurant said that the establishment was cooperating fully with the investigation and would be taking steps to ensure that all of its ingredients were sourced ethically and legally.

The arrest of Martens has sparked a debate about the use of exotic ingredients in haute cuisine, and the ethical considerations that must be taken into account when sourcing these ingredients. While some argue that the pursuit of culinary innovation justifies the use of rare and unusual ingredients, others maintain that the exploitation of endangered species for gastronomic purposes is both morally and legally indefensible.

As the case against Martens moves forward, many in the food industry are taking a closer look at their own sourcing practices, recognizing that the pursuit of culinary excellence cannot come at the cost of environmental stewardship and animal welfare. For Martens, the legal consequences of his actions may be severe, but the impact of his arrest could be felt across the culinary landscape for years to come.

As the debate over the use of Silverspot butterflies in cuisine continues, the fate of the species hangs in the balance. Many are questioning whether a fleeting culinary trend is worth the cost to the environment and the creatures that call it home, and whether steps need to be taken to protect endangered species from exploitation for culinary purposes.