Old invercargill

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Old Invercargill

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The Boer War Memorial.

RODGER WILLS

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OLD INVERCARGILL

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Dedication

Contents

To my father, F. G. Hall-Jones, who encouraged my interest in recording history

Introduction

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Chapter 1

Before Invercargill Was

Also by John Hall-Jones: Early Fiordland, 1968 Mr Surveyor Thomson, 1971 The Invercargill Rotary Club, 1974 Bluff Harbour, 1976 Fiordland Explored, 1976 The Invercargill Club, 1979 Fiordland Place Names, 1979 The South Explored, 1979 An Early Surveyor in Singapore, 1980 New Zealand’s Majestic Wilderness, 1981 Goldfields of the South, 1982 Pioneers of Te Anau, 1983 The Thomson Paintings of the Straits Settlements, 1983 Glimpses into Life in Malayan Lands, 1984 Doubtfull Harbour, 1984 The Catlins Guidebook, 1985 Jonathan White’s New Zealand, 1986

Martins Bay, 1987 Supplement to Doubtfull Harbour, 1988 Footsteps in the Wilderness, 1989 Discover the South, 1991 John Turnbull Thomson: First SurveyorGeneral, 1992 Stewart Island Explored, 1994 The Horsburgh Lighthouse, 1995 Discover Fiordland, 1997 Milford Sound, 2000 The Fjords of Fiordland, 2002 Fiordland Place Names, (Revised Edition) 2003 Goldfields of Otago, 2005 Gold Trails of Otago, 2009 Fiordland Landscape and Life, 2011 Goldfields of Otago with Supplement, 2011 Historic Treasures of the South, 2012

Chapter 2

Genesis of a Town Chapter 3

The Town Grows

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Chapter 4

The Town becomes a City Chapter 5

Otatara

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Chapter 6 Published by Craigs Design & Print Ltd, PO Box 99, Invercargill 9840, New Zealand.

City Parks and Playgrounds ~ 99

© 2013 John Hall-Jones This book is copyright. Except for the purposes of fair reviewing no part of this publication, including photographs, maps and drawings may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Chapter 7

Bluff

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Bibliography

ISBN 978-0-908629-79-4 Printed and distributed by Craigs Design & Print Ltd, 122 Yarrow Street, PO Box 99, Invercargill 9840, New Zealand.

Email: sales@craigprint.co.nz Website: www.craigprint.co.nz

Index

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 INTRODUCTION 

F

OR THIS BOOK I have been extremely fortunate in inheriting three windfalls of photograph albums of early Invercargill buildings; the collections of my father, F. G. (Fred) Hall-Jones, my ‘Uncle Jack’, architect Cuthbert John Brodrick, and Dr William Grigor. But buildings need people in them to bring them to life and here again fortuitously I have had access to the early records and accounts of the pioneers of Invercargill. Wherever possible, I have

let them tell their stories in their own words.

As you will find in the opening chapters of the book, some of the best descriptions of early Invercargill come from the pens of two early visitors, Sherwood Roberts and Henry Harper, the latter accompanying his father, Bishop Henry Harper of Christchurch.

Roberts gives us a delightful description of the goings-on at the lively housewarming parties at the town’s first two

The top storeys of the Alexandra Buildings (built 1901) on the corner of Don and Dee Streets.

Though a little the “worse for wear”, these handsome buildings reflect Invercargill’s Victorian past. RODGER WILLS

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hotels, Lind’s and the George Hotel.

Then Henry Harper jnr tells us of a most disturbed and unusual night they had at Lind’s Hotel.

Later comes the tale of a famous character in the early town, the ‘Black Doctor’, who was neither black nor a doctor. A tall impressive figure, he used to parade the streets wearing a shiny bell-topper hat, which he used to sweep almost to the ground in response to any greeting.

Then there are the stories of how the fire brigade suffered the embarrassment of burning its own fire station to the ground; the collection of over a thousand ‘Birds, Beasts, Insects etc’, in Andrew McKenzie’s pie shop, which later went to the Athenaeum and then the Southland Technical College, which was the beginnings of the Southland Museum; Todd’s auction market, where for many years town and country have met on Fridays to auction and recycle their second-hand goods; the crisis that hit Invercargill when it voted to become ‘dry’ and the ways that were found to circumvent the law.

Throughout the book the stream that runs through the centre of the town, is given its correct and meaningful Maori name, Otarewa, instead of its present name, Otepuni. Otarewa, meaning ‘the land uplifted’, was a good descriptive

Copyrighted Material name by Maori for the terrace that runs along Tay Street, which was used by early Maori for the start of their route into the interior.

The name was correctly used by the early European visitors to Invercargill and it was only later that it was changed to the meaningless one of Otepuni. Some years ago I made a submission to the New Zealand Geographic Board, supported by Mayor Eve Poole, to have the original Maori name of Otarewa restored. But, disappointingly, the Board turned down our request.

In researching the book I must freely admit that I have learnt things about my own town that I wasn’t aware of before. Indeed I have thoroughly enjoyed poking into places and corners where I have not previously been. In particular, the huge Sandy Point Domain, where almost every imaginable sport can be played within easy reach of the city. Also the corner of Queens Park, where there is a wonderland of playgrounds for children, a walk-in aviary for rare birds and an animal enclosure for exotic animals.

In compiling the book I am indebted to a number of authors (listed in the Bibliography) for the use of information provided in their books. In particular my father’s classic histories, Pioneers of Invercargill and Kelly of Inverkelly.

The books of that meticulous researcher, J. O. P. Watt. Also the information contained in Murihiku: The Southland Story, published

The Grand Hotel, designed by C. J. Brodrick, under construction in Dee Street in 1911.

It is now used as a student hostel. C. J. BRODRICK

by Bob Simpson’s committee for the Southland Centennial in 2006. I am also indebted to Acton Smith for generously providing me with one of his last personal copies of the history of his firm, H&J Smith Ltd. I must thank the Hocken Library, and in particular Mary Lewis, for its help in providing illustrations for this book.

Likewise, the Invercargill Public Library, and in particular its archivist Rebecca Smith, for providing several photographs.

I am also indebted to Rodger Wills, CEO of Craigs, and his son, Tony, for their professionalism in providing a number of superb photographs for the book. Also to Colin Robertson for providing photographs of early Otatara.

Finally, I must once again thank Craigs Design & Print Ltd, and in particular Ellen van Empel, for all the care and attention in producing such a handsome, well-designed book.

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Copyrighted Material from Tay Street on the west side of the future arcade, which ran through to Esk Street.

Cuthbertson’s brother Robert, who followed him to Southland, also has an interesting story to tell of his arrival in Invercargill. Born in Scotland, he emigrated to New Zealand in 1861. When he arrived at Bluff there was still no wharf and he landed on the shore. He reached Invercargill by the old route: Crossing to the Mokomoko Inlet of the Oreti Estuary, he was ferried by William West in his boat to Kelly’s Point in the Otarewa Stream. A qualified accountant he was elected

Captain Elles’ new customs office in Clyde Street, the first brick building in Invercargill.

C. J. BRODRICK

to the Southland Provincial Council and served on the executive.

Captain Andrew Elles who was appointed customs officer, postmaster and magistrate in Invercargill in 1858. F. G. HALL-JONES

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Post Office Block Opposite Lind’s Hotel in Dee Street was the Post Office block, where the Post Office and other Government buildings were situated. The first to be built on the block was the Customs Office, a weather-boarded building, where Captain Andrew Elles carried out

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his multiple duties of collector of customs, postmaster, magistrate and coroner.

An Ayrshire man, Captain Elles had commanded the Philip Laing, one of the two ships which brought the first settlers out to Otago. After a few more years at sea he decided to settle ashore, where in 1856 he was appointed collector of customs and postmaster at Bluff. In 1858 he was transferred to Invercargill, where he

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Post Office Square with Post Office clock tower, band rotunda and horse-drawn hansom cabs in foreground.

HOCKEN COLLECTIONS, UARE TAOKA O HAKENA, UNIVERSITY OF OTAGO

continued in office for the next 24 years. In 1863 in appreciation of his good work he was moved from his weather-boarded office to a brand new customs office in Clyde Street, the first brick building in Invercargill.

“A familiar figure in the town, you could see at a glance as he approached with a slightly rolling gait that he was a man of the sea; and although he might seem a little bluff, as sailors often are, he was genial

on closer acquaintance.” Elles Road, formally East Boundary Road, was renamed to honour him.

The other buildings erected in the Post Office block were the Post Office, a Courthouse, a gaol and some GENESIS OF A TOWN

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Bank of New Zealand on Otarewa Terrace above Kelly’s Point. Basilica in distance.

C. J. BRODRICK

Union Bank of Australia further along Tay Street. Note remnant of Taurakitewaru Wood on left. F. G. HALL-JONES

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On the opposite corner of Tay Street was another fine building, originally the Bank of New Zealand, now the New Life Church. On the opposite corner of Clyde Street, at the beginning of the Crescent, was another handsome building, the National Bank of New Zealand, now offices. And opposite to this, in the Post Office block, was the Colonial Bank of New Zealand. The odd bank out, which didn’t build at Bank Corner was the Union Bank of Australia, which built much further along Tay Street, opposite the future Town Hall.

Paradoxically, not one of the seven banks remain at Bank Corner, they have all spread elsewhere in the city and offices have taken over their original premises. Nevertheless, they leave us some fine architectural edifices in this historic corner.

The Crescent Although J. T. Thomson’s curved line for the Crescent was questioned by the Town Council, because it claimed that it was a disfigurement in his otherwise rectangular plan for the town, it remained unaltered. The result is that we have a beautifully curved street lined by some impressive mercantile buildings, designed by the eminent architect, F. W. Burwell. As viewed from the left in the accompanying photograph (see overleaf) these were (in the 1880s): the National Bank of New Zealand; Wright Stephensons (formerly the Crescent Hotel and

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R. P. McGoun’s painting of the footbridge across Otarewa Stream in the 1880s. The large building on the extreme right is the Bank of New Zealand and stands on the Otarewa Terrace above Kelly’s Point. ANDERSON PARK ART

the Invercargill Club); New Zealand Loan & Mercantile Agency Co; National Mortgage and Agency Co; J. G. Ward & Co. The last firm was just one of the many businesses that Sir Joseph Ward was involved in. Ward resided in Bluff, where he served as mayor and chairman of the Bluff Harbour Board. At Bluff he established his own freezing works at Ocean Beach in 1892. Paradoxically this has now closed down, whereas all the other freezing works opening later in Southland are thriving.

Ward was the MP for Awarua and in 1906 he become prime minister for six years. Then, after

GALLERY

Left: Sir Joseph Ward MP for Awarua and later Prime Minister.

F. G. HALL-JONES

Right: Architect Frederick Burwell.

C. J. BRODRICK

THE TOWN BECOMES A CITY

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Otatara steam tram on the Oreti Estuary, 1907. OTAGO DAILY TIMES Right: Nathaniel Dunn and family, after whom Dunns Road was named.

COLIN ROBERTSON

to Otatara. After that the tram service quickly closed down.

But to reach the Oreti Beach the Oreti River had to be crossed. In 1922 John Hastings began a launch service across the river, charging sixpence for adults and threepence for children, for return fares. Although his fares were most reasonable his business failed because of lack of support. The landing on the far side was a muddy one, causing a number of mishaps.

Eventually in 1929 a wooden bridge was built across the Oreti River giving access to Oreti Beach 92  

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Copyrighted Material via Dunns Road (named after Nathaniel Dunn, a popular sawmiller, who lived beside the road) and this is the popular route to the beach today.

In 1987 the old wooden bridge was replaced with a new one, using concrete piles and precast beams.

Whereas nowadays Otatara is a popular residential area for those people who like the bush and birdlife, in the early days many of the inhabitants were involved in sawmilling and flax milling as well as farming. In 1989 Otatara was added to the city.

Sawmills As we have seen already, the first sawmill was started in the early 1870s by the Lockhart brothers, who later sold out to Lewis Acker.

After that sawmills sprang up wherever there was a good stand of tall trees.

Most of these sawmills had tram lines leading into the forest, where bullocks hauled Construction of the wooden bridge over the Oreti River. NOELINE McGREGOR

Two views of the opening of the wooden Oreti River bridge in 1929, giving access to Oreti Beach via Dunns Road.

Left: NOELINE McGREGOR, Right: SOUTHLAND MUSEUM

OTATARA

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Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, being welcomed at the band rotunda, Queens Park, in 1954. SOUTHLAND MUSEUM

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Copyrighted Material Avenue) towards the band rotunda look left for a glimpse of the white pyramid of the Southland Museum and Art Gallery, one of the park’s major attractions. At the back of the museum are the Subantarctic Islands’ gardens, where there are some magnificent megaherbs, that have been transplanted from those islands.

At the Queens Park Aviary you will see many native bird species, including kaka and cheeky kea in separate enclosures. Also rare Campbell Island flightless duck and Antipodes Islands parakeet. The shortest approach to the Aviary is via the Queens Drive entrance, which also gives access to a number of other gems: The animal enclosures, where there are some exotic animals, including ostrich and alpaca; the Winter Gardens glasshouses, which were made possible by bequests from Frank Steans and John Baker; a bequest by J. B. Thomson provided the money for the bronze animal statues designed by the eminent English sculptor Sir Charles Wheeler, on which children climb to their hearts content. (They were unveiled in 1966 by Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother). In the background are swings, roundabouts, slides and see-saws. Opposite this playground is Wonderland Castle, with stairs leading up to the battlements and slides coming down. All this play makes kids thirsty and conveniently close is the Queens Park tea kiosk, where drinks and ice creams are

Band rotunda in Queens Park. TONY WILLS

Sir Charles Wheeler’s statuary in the children’s playground. J. HALL-JONES

C I T Y PA R K S & P L AYG RO U N D S

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Bluff wharf from the west (c.1875) showing the train leaving for Invercargill. M. G. SKERRETT

work ceased on the railway. This was particularly unfortunate as the line would probably have been completed within a few months. As it so happened the railway was not opened until three years later, in 1867.

Work on the railway remained at a standstill for over a year, until a new contract was taken up by Smyth, Hoyt & Co, who completed the line and station at Bluff. Although the line was not opened officially until 5 February 1867, a train ran through 124  

on 3 February 1866, with only one incident. One of the contractors had not been paid and although permission was given for the trip, some of the workmen thought otherwise. The train got as far as Greenhills, only to find the line blocked by workmen. At first the men refused to listen to the protests of the passengers, but they finally relented and lifted the barricade.

The train carried on to Bluff to find the town decked out in flags and a

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steamer wreathed in bunting.

The Awarua bog had been bridged and proper communication established with Invercargill. The port was also linked to Invercargill by telegraph (in February 1864). In 1864 the Christmas mail, a big event in those days, was very late in arriving from England. On arriving at Bluff, it was shot though to Invercargill in the record time of one hour and 15 minutes, a big improvement on the days of the coach.

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Early hotels on the Bluff waterfront, the Golden Age, Royal and Railway Hotels.

Note Bluff train at the foot of the old wharf.

W. GRIGOR

Right: Bagging oysters at Bluff, 1899.

Note size of shells. M. G SKERRETT

One of the earliest passengers on the train was the Governor, Sir George Grey, who arrived in Bluff in HMS Brisk and travelled to Invercargill in a “special vice-regal carriage�. Special excursion trains were laid on from Invercargill and BLUFF

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 INDEX  Bold figures indicate illustrations

Cuthbertson, J., 18, 118, 19 Cuthbertson, R., 20

Acheron, 117, 117 airfield, Myross Bush, 87, 87 airport, Invercargill, 88, 87 Acker, L., 90, 90 Anderson Park Art Gallery, 107, 106 Anderson, R., 107, 106 Athenaeum, 44, 66, 63 Awarua bog, 122

Dalrymple, P., 13, 14 Danzig, 24, 25 Davies, J. R., 30, 30 Davis, J., 122 Dunn, N., 92, 93

Bain, J., 48, 48 band rotunda, 21, 102, 103, 22, 101 banks, 67-71, 67-71 Bank corner, 69, 67-71 Basilica, 28, 26 Batten, J., 85, 85 Bethune, J., 26, 26, 55 Bews, W. A., 58 Black Doctor, 38, 38 Bonar, A., 47, 47 Breweries, 74, 74 Brick factories, 77, 77 Brisk, 13, 125 Brodrick family, 47, 59, 59 Browne, T. G., 14, 14-15, 118, 120 Burwell, F., 71, 70, 72 Cargill, W., 14, 14-15, 120 cars, 65, 46 Chaseland, T., 119 Chatsworth House, 13, 14 churches, 26-30, 26-30 Civic Theatre, 50, 51, 51 coat of arms, 87, 87-88 Cobb & Co., 91, 44-45, 97, 123 Cohen, N., 108, 108 Courthouse, 21, 47 Craig, W., 53, 53-54 Craigs Design & Print Ltd, 53, 54, 53-54 Crescent, 72, 7273 Customs Office, 20, 118, 20, 118-119

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electricity, 44 Elles, A., 20, 20-21, 121-122 Feldwick, J., 104, 104 fire service, 34-37 fire station, 35-37 flaxmills, 94-97, 95-97 Fleming, T., 75-76 flood, 88, 89, 88-89 flourmills, 76, 77, 75-76 gaol, 22, 119 Garvie, A., 15, 118 gas, 43, 43-44 Gilmour, R., 52, 52 Grey, G., 33, 125 Grieve, J., 19, 19 Grigor, W., 40, 40 H&J Smith Ltd, 82, 83, 81-83 Hall-Jones, F. G., 47, 6 Hall-Jones, F. W. (“Ted”), 87, 85-87 Hamilton, W. J. W., 9, 9-10, 117 Harper, H., 19, 18-19, 122 Hayes, E., 84, 83-84 Highlander Condensed Milk, 78, 78 Hinton, J., 62 hospitals, 41, 42, 40-43 hotels, 7, 22-25, 22-25 immigration barracks, 35, 37 Invercargill Club, 73, 72-73 Island Harbour, 128, 128130 Jones, J., 19, 19

Kelly, C., 12, 12 Kelly, J., 15, 12, 13 Kelly, K., 13 Kelly’s Point, 12-13 Lady Barkly, 30, 30-33 Lennel, 79, 79-80 Library, 66 Lind, W., 17-18 Lind’s Hotel, 17, 18, 17-18 Logie, C., 118 Lucy Ann, 113 Macandrew, J., 16, 19 McKenzie, A., 63, 63 Maclean, J., 18, 19 McClymont, G., 13, 14 McCoy, H., 12, 10-11 McShane, O. 11, 12 Mantell, W., 10, 9-12 Masonic Lodge, 60, 59 Menzies, J. A. R., 11, 12, 117 Minerva, 64, 66, 64 Mokomoko accommodation house, 122, 123, 20, 122 Monkton, F., 40, 40 Monro, D., 9, 9 Munro, B., 64, 64 Murihiku Purchase, 10-12

Pleasure Bay, 110, 110 police, 37-38 police station, 38, 39 Poole, E., 7, 66 Post Office, 19, 20, 20-22 Printz, G., 6 prohibition, 74 Proudfoot, P., 14, 15 Puettelkow, 23, 24, 23-25 Queen Elizabeth II, 102, 101, 103 Queens Park, 102-105, 99-105 railways, 32, 123, 124, 3033, 123-125 Railway Hotel, 33, 33 railway station, 32 regattas, 111, 110-111 Richardson, W., 64-65, 64-66 Roberts, W. H. S., 17-19 Robinson, T., 13, 13 Rowan, T., 13 Royds, C., 94, 95, 95-97 Royds, H., 97, 97

Sandy Point, 11-12 Sandy Point Domain, 108-109 Omaui, 11, 115, 117 schools, 55-57, 55-57 Oreti Beach, 90-92 Shortland, E., 117 Oreti Estuary, 91, 110-111 Sinclair, M., 17, 117 Oreti (New) River, 93, 111, Sloan, R., 25, 25 92-93 Sloan’s Theatre, 25 Otarewa (Otepuni) Stream, Smith, A., 7, 82 10, 18, 71, 99, 100, 7, Smith, H., 82, 81-82 12, 99 Smith, J., 82, 81-82 Otatara, 90-97 Smith, K., 84, 85, 84-85 Oue, 11, 12, 11-12 Southern Cross, 85, 84-85 Oysters, 124, 125, 126, Southland Building Society, 127-128 48, 48-49 Southland Museum, 64, Palmer, E., 115, 115, 117, 119 63-64 Parker, J., 117 Southland News, 52 Parks, 98-109, 98-109 Southland Provincial Pearson, W., 22 Chambers, 46, 47, 46-47 Petre, F., 26 Southland Savings Bank, Pither, H., 84, 84 47, 47-48

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Southland Stadium, 109, 109 Southland Times, 52, 53, 52-53 Spencer, J., 112-117 Spencer, W., 113, 117 Stirling, W., 113, 116, 116-117 Stead, J., 91, 91 Stobo, A., 26, 26 Stokes, J. L., 9, 14, 117-118 Taurakitewaru Forest, 8, 10, 106, Thomson, J. T., 15, 79, 15-16, 79-80, 106, 108, 119-121 Tiwai aluminium smelter, 129, 130 Todd, W., 80, 80-81 Todd’s auction, 80, 80-81 Town Hall, 49, 50, 51 trams, 43, 44, 45-46 Travis, R., 60, 60 tuatara, 63 Tuhawaiki (“Bloody Jack”), 115 Uru, S., 109 van Empel, E., 7, 53 von Hammer, 24, 25 Walker, G., 119, 121 Ward, J., 71, 71 war memorials, 4, 61, 62, 60-63 water tower, 58, 59, 58-59 Watson, T., 69, 67 Watt, J. O. P., 7 Waugh, T., 108 West, W., 122, 20, 122 whaling, 114, 112-115 White, T., 19 Williams, J., 117 Wilson, E. R., 30, 51 Wing, T., 115, 116 Yule, D., 99 Yule, R., 78, 78 Yule House, 78, 78