Cream Chapter

MIDDLE EAST - 2019

ISSUE N°1

#thecreamlab.me

PASTRY ESSENTIAL

SWEETS FORECAST

Top chefs share their unique recipe

What’s trending in 2020

WHITE GOLD

(R)EVOLUTION

Why dairy cream makes a difference

Women in pastry

Hind Al Mulla

Ida Martin

Nina Métayer

Aaliya Randeree

Najla Shamiri

Liz Stevenson

WOMEN IN PASTRY

Rise to the top with French Cream

We are all chefs, but I am supposed to be something else, too. I am expected to be a champion on the gender cause on top of that. Don't get me wrong: I want to help pave the way to make things better for female chefs in our industry — and for all chefs in general — but I worry that I will always be seen as a female chef first and a chef second. It's a corner I am forever stuck in.

Dominique Crenn First woman triple-starred by the Michelin guide

The content of this magazine represents the author’s point of view only and are the sole responsibility of the author.

The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made from the information contained herein.

Cream Chapter

Women are having a resurgence.

In kitchens.

In the professional world.

In pastry.

Join the community on Facebook and Instagram

#thecreamlab.me

Edito

EDITO

Rise to the top with french cream Across the GCC and beyond, women can be found creating, developing, consulting, and running successful culinary businesses. From a Los Angeles Times article earlier this year entitled, “Yes, pastry chefs are real chefs and women are leading the baking revolution”, to the 2019 World’s Best Pastry Chef award honoring Jessica Préalpato, women are a force in restaurants across the world.

And, at the genesis of every

CNIEL - the French Dairy Board,

recipe, no matter the level

gathered several talented female

or talent of the chef, is the

chefs together for a dialogue on

choice of what ingredients to include. In the creation of

pastry, career, advice, and the state of the industry.

pastry, several core ingredients form a foundation: butter, dairy, eggs, flour. When using dairy products, no other product can match the versatile qualities of European cream. Used by the best chefs to enhance recipes and bring out the best flavours in their pastry, French cream is a staple product in kitchens.

Chef Préalpato advises, “Choose the right product at the right time, take the time to taste it, and sublimate it.” Préalpato and most pastry chefs around the world place French products center stage in their pastry dishes. Their creative process involves searching for ways to ‘sublimate’ an ingredient, to present it on the plate in a higher form than how it arrived in the kitchen. High-quality fresh & natural ingredients carefully sourced are at the heart of their work.

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Chefs were tasked with including luxurious French cream an indulgent and multipurpose ingredient, that they will have worked and flavored, into an exclusive pastry of their creation.

Plating for each of the dishes was stunning, and dairy cream was integrated into these pastries in many creative ways.

The globally inspired dishes ranged from an authentically Emirati dessert to pavlova to iced yogurt. Final touches of roseinfused whipped cream and vanilla tonka chantilly helped elevate plates even further.

What else do these chefs have in common? Read more to find out more about these amazing women — their backgrounds, their favorite recipes, their advice, and how they came to be the successful pastry chefs they are today.

Cream Chapter

Women in Pastry - The (R)evolution p.6

Cream - The essential ingredient p.8

Trending Pastry 2020 p.10

Chefs Portraits Aaliya Randeree Pastry Chef and founder of Butterworks Bakery p.12

Liz Stevenson Pastry consultant p.16

Hind Al Mulla Pastry Chef and founder of Home Bakery p.20

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Summary

Recipes Dark Chocolate and Walnut Pavlova Aaliya Randeree p.37

Dark chocolate mousse & black sesame praline with iced yoghurt & caramel

Nina MĂŠtayer

Liz Stevenson

Pastry consultant and pastry

p.38

Chef of the year 2016 p.24

Najla Shamiri Pastry consultant p.28

Ida Martin Head pastry Chef of Queen Elizabeth II p.32

Authentically Emirati Hind Al Mulla p.39

Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue Nina MĂŠtayer p.41

Sticky dates cake with salted caramel and infused Arabic coffee cream Najla Shamiri p.42

Chocolate and orange entremet, pistachio whipped ganache Ida Martin p.42

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Cream Chapter

Women in Pastry The (R)evolution For two days, six chefs with varying experience sat around a table to discuss about what is it to be a woman in Pastry.

Their thoughts are exclusively revealed for the first edition of Cream Chapter.

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The (R)evolution

What brings people together?

Being a woman in pastry

Is it possible to introduce a group with only one thing

is not always simple

in

common,

and

have

the

individuals speak for hours?

On the topic of pastry, with a selection of successful women, the conversation ranged from using the best ingredients to experiences of all kinds in the kitchen. While perhaps there is some antiquated notion that women do not deserve a place in today’s modern kitchen, or are somehow not as capable, the collected group have proven they are more than confident in leading teams, winning awards, and starting thriving businesses. They are passionate, professional, creative, and dedicated to the craft of pastry.

During

the

discussion,

the

dialogue first centered on the chefs’ respective journeys in the culinary arts. Overall, the group was split on when they wanted to become involved with pastry.

Some of the women started in completely different fields (animation, fine arts, nutrition), and, even if working in a kitchen, the beginning of their careers wasn’t necessarily in pastry. The remainder gathered experience in kitchens and restaurants around the world.

Perhaps surprisingly, formal pastry training was something not necessary for all of the chefs.

but it’s worth the struggle The group had to work hard, perhaps harder than their male counterparts, to obtain the positions they are in today. In their experience, the women all had to overcome adversity and sexism in the kitchen. Be it from detrimental, antagonistic, or misogynist situations, the group heard ‘no’ just as many times as they heard ‘yes.’

A bright future for women in pastry When discussing the pressure to be present on social media, each of the chefs admitted to having accounts on popular platforms. As busy as most of them are, the commitment to consistently post can be a bit of a hassle, but a necessary one.

One of the chefs mentioned that her business grew considerably by

using

social

media

to

highlight her products.

And yet, they persevered.

As of today, all of the women are leaders in some capacity, and many of them work outside of their kitchens as culinary consultants to well-recognized institutions.

When it came to advise the next generation of chefs, each of the women had nearly identical recommendations.

The suggestion to keep going, to understand the realities of what the industry will throw at any person starting out, was repeated again and again. The women recognized that the work would be difficult, and there would be sacrifices, but the payoff could be amazing.

The road to becoming a successful pastry chef is not an easy one, but by supporting others in the kitchen, the journey can be made easier.

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When asked how they wanted their careers to progress, the answers were not of writing cookbooks, appearing on television shows, or winning awards. The collected chefs were mainly interested in opening individual shops, continuing to consult, and providing training to home cooks or others starting their careers.

Cream Chapter

Cream The essential ingredient

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The essential ingredient A unique flavor enhancer

dairy products are available to both professionals and home chefs throughout the GCC.

In pastry and other branches of the culinary arts, there is no denying that cream is an essential ingredient. As a cooking element, it adds an

When it was revealed what ingredient they

incredible depth of flavor.

Cream is one of

was more than ready to take on the challenge of

the most versatile dairy products, as it gives

incorporating Dairy cream into a completely new

substance to all preparations. In the kitchen, chefs and home cooks can infuse cream with

recipe. The resulting desserts were as diverse as the chefs themselves.

would hero in their dishes, each of the women

herbs and spices to create an exquisitely flavored ganache or add other delicious components to dishes.

In its liquid form, cream provides

silkiness and incomparable glossiness to pastry of all kinds. Furthermore, cream lends a unique smoothness to custard and ice cream, where it is sweetened and flavored. Although cream can be sourced from many countries, French cream has an unparalleled melt in the mouth quality, and its softness on the palate is uniquely soothing and comforting.

No substitute to Dairy Cream Perhaps most importantly for the ingredient, France has strict standards around the content of fat in its cream products. Educated chefs around the world understand that the consistent inclusion of 35% fat is essential to creating the ideal cooking cream, whipping cream, and other products. This cream includes both a low reduction rate and fast cooking time, which helps to retain all of the flavours and nutritional properties of the dishes. Furthermore, many European farmers are focused on sustainable dairy production. With educated chefs and diners, people are more interested than ever on how their food is made.

It is apparent that each of the talented chefs, who contributed to this first edition of Cream Chapter, was easily able to work with such a multipurpose product and included French cream using a variety of techniques and talents. Furthermore, no matter the level of cook or chef, anyone can incorporate French cream to a range of dishes in the kitchen, from savoury to sweet.

As part of the discussion of favored ingredients, the collected chefs were particular about many things, extending to the products they use in their kitchens. Unfortunately, for many chefs in the UAE, not all of the products are available that food professionals might want for their recipes.

And yet, when it comes to pastry, there can be no substitutes. Fortunately, European cream and many other recognizable high-quality French

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Cream Chapter

Trending Pastry 2020 If sweets is expected to offer more healthier alternatives, desserts are predicted to be creamy, more traditional but with bolder flavors.

“French pastries return joined

by Middle Eastern boozas and kanafehs�

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The essential ingredient

“Educated diners now want to understand where their food comes from” What diners and guests could be looking at in 2020 and beyond ?

Although

the

chefs,

who

contributed to this first edition of Cream Chapter, represented different markets and sectors within the culinary arts, there were similar predictions that easily translate to other cities. With the women not only running kitchens but also consulting to multiple restaurants and clients, they are at the forefront of not only what is trending, but in understanding what customers are requesting.

“Guests are looking for more global and modern flavours” Towards more sustainability and products knowledge For the majority of the conversation, multiple chefs spoke about a bias towards sustainability.

Not only are kitchens becoming more sustainable and cutting down waste when possible, but guests are also looking for healthier experiences, seeking out restaurants and kitchens where better environmental options are more prevalent.

For pastry specifically, this could mean a substitution of ingredients. As diners look for

‘clean’ eating and dishes that reflect their wholesome dietary choices, pastry chefs have to be creative. Educated diners now want to understand where their food comes from and what specifically they are ordering, leading to an overall trend in healthier eating.

World food experience are more and more appreciated in the GCC In looking at the entire system of restaurants and dining culture, one of the chefs commented that the global shift might turn away from high-end dining. With the costs of labour and food going up, the model might no longer be sustainable.

As the chef suggested, people are looking for more simple and unifying experiences. Additionally, and perhaps specific to the GCC, one chef sees that as much as diners travel in the region and around the world, these guests are looking for more global and modern flavours.

Of course, for the chefs, the trend towards healthy eating isn’t always welcomed. At the base of producing pastry for others is a sense of indulgence, and by substituting healthier options, it’s a bit against the code of desserts.

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Between modernity and comfort food Finally, as much as there might be a turn to healthier options, one of the chefs predicted some kitchens trying modern takes on older pastry recipes and an overall return to baking.

While chefs are always happy to work around what their customers prefer, comfort desserts prevail and they do like using butter and full cream in their recipes.

French pastries return joined

by Middle Eastern boozas and kanafehs along with Asian flavors like black sesame, pandan scented desserts. New additions to the picture : infused cream, herbs, salt, or vegetables are now part of the game.

What will actually happen in 2020 ? Nothing is for certain, but good pastry will always have its foundation in quality ingredients, such as European dairy Cream.

“Comfort desserts prevail”

Cream Chapter

Aaliya Randeree

Aaliya Randeree is a South African pastry chef trained in the UAE, and in the process of starting her own bakery, Butterworks Bakery.

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Aaliya Randeree Tell us about your journey as a chef.

What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out?

If you were a pastry, what would you be ?

I always knew it was what I wanted to become a baker or

Don’t give up. Don’t let people stand in your way. There will always be someone who will try

A chocolate chip sourdough bread with a banana on top.

pastry chef. However, when it came time to study, my family was a bit conservative and didn’t necessarily approve of a young woman in the kitchen. They didn’t really see the correlation or

think

it

was

entirely

appropriate. And so, I went to study teaching. In my first six months, I failed. I was awful at it, and I didn’t pay attention. Then I said to my family ‘this is not working out and I need to do what I want to do.’ So, I was 19 when I went to culinary school in the UAE and completed my degree, finishing smaller courses in addition to the usual coursework. Then I started at an upscale hotel in Dubai. As with any career, there are good roles, and there are bad roles, and this was, unfortunately, the latter.

As a woman and the youngest on the team, instead of the pastry kitchen, he put me on the buffet.

I thought I didn’t want to work in the industry again, but then a role opened at another restaurant. I went in for a trial, and the difference was massive.

The founder -- a woman -offered a teaching kitchen, and they put a lot of effort into cultivating talent.

I needed that sort of environment at that time. From then, after getting married, I am now in the process of starting my own brand, Butterworks Bakery.

and put you down. It’s always worth the struggle -- whether you try and fail, it’s worth the struggle.

“It’s always worth the struggle whether you try and fail, it’s worth the struggle.”

What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ?

Customers are much more conscious about what they are putting in their bodies. While the trend is towards vegan and gluten-free products, I’ll admit, I don’t really like it. Give me all the butter, all the fat. If you’re going to indulge, indulge! Of course, I do acknowledge the importance of trying to source quality products and ingredients.

Of all your recipes, which one are you the most proud of ?

My Carda buns - infused dough, brown butter sugar, and cardamom filling. That, and my burnt butter blondies.

Find Aaliya on social media https://www.instagram.com/butterworksbakery/ Find more details about Butterworks Bakery https://butterworksbakery.com/

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Cream Chapter

Dark Chocolate and Walnut Pavlova Focusing on combining lavish flavours, Aaliya Randeree developed a rich walnut and dark chocolate pavlova, finishing the pastry by adding a honey and rose-infused whipped cream.

Find the recipe page 37.

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Aaliya Randeree

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Cream Chapter Tell us about your journey as a chef.

My journey as a chef didn’t

Liz Stevenson

actually begin in the kitchen.

I did not start out as a chef, in fact, I began as a vocalist. My degree was in fine arts. After graduating, I struggled to make a living and got jobs in kitchens, and discovered I really enjoyed the work. I was self-taught, and my original focus was on cooking.

At the beginning, pastry was too technical and not something I could see myself doing. I moved to London in 2004 and got a job with Gordon Ramsay. I worked in multiple positions -- as a demi chef in the larder, hot section, and on sauce. Finally, I came across pastry. I didn’t understand pastry, but loved the environment, which was methodical and structured.

In a similar approach to my studies in the arts, I realized many things were process-based, and pastry had the same approach.

I struggled inside the abusive environment of the kitchen, and a job opportunity led me to come to Dubai. I was part of the opening team at The Ivy, where I met Chef Colin Clague, who I would later work with at Rüya. Even with my busy schedule, I also worked in

Liz arrived in Dubai in 2008 and worked for numerous

menu development and helped

prestigious venues in the city such as Jumeirah, Rüya,

create the menu at Taqado, which

and Qbara. During her career, she also worked for the

was in the process of opening

famous French Chef Dominique Ansel Bakery in London.

their first branch. From this sort

Currently, she is consulting on several culinary projects.

of work, I opened a consulting company, which was based out of D3.

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Liz Stevenson After taking some time off to

are labour costs and the cost of

focus on my health, I moved

living. People are searching for

back to London to work in the

a food experience that is simple

evening, there are proposals to review, social media to keep up with, dinner, and bed.

prestigious

and unifying. People want to be

Of all your recipes, which one

bakery for several months. It was

brought

are you the most proud of ?

an excellent learning experience.

the market will correct itself.

Most recently, I’ve worked with

Customers

the Rüya team in Mayfair. As

awareness around local sources

for now, I am continuing my

of food and produce.

consulting

Dominique

work

for

Ansel

with Lindsay of the Tasting Class to develop a training course.

What was the most significant risk you took in your career ? to

Dubai,

have

Eventually,

much

more

multiple

endeavors, as well as connecting

Moving

together.

being

a

come with inherent risks, but the payoffs have also been rewarding.

What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?

It took weeks to get the right combination for the wellbalanced pastry I wanted. One of the owners (of Rüya) Rasim

“People are searching for a food experience that is simple and unifying.”

consultant, developing an original concept, and being freelance all

My kunefe, for Ruya in London.

Where can we find the best pastry in Dubai ?

At La Petite Maison, by Chef

Özkanca, loves it and he is very difficult to please. I find it a direct compliment that Turkish people are coming in for that specific dish. Recently, in Dubai, I also made chocolate kibbeh, which is really divine. Finally, just the act of developing pastry for Dominique (Ansel) was a great honor.

What is your favorite pastry ?

A freshly baked croissant.

contributing to the menu, I’m

If you were a pastry, what would you be ?

Be persistent. Yes, you will get

quite proud of what Rise & Dawn

A Valrhona chocolate truffle.

knocked down, but get back up.

at the Sum of Us is currently producing.

Kitchen life is tough, and learning to not take things personally is important.

Consider your

development.

Consider it does

take time to gain experience.

Look after yourself, and don’t be so hard on yourself.

What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ?

I think we might see an end in high-end dining in the next few years. Think about it -- food is becoming more expensive, as

Rafael. Also, even though I am

What does a typical day look like for you ?

My current routine involves waking up early and committing to two minutes of sunshine.

I have a quick look at social media, then go to the kitchen to review and taste. As part of the development process, this might take hours. With my involvement with Rüya, I spend some time with the team prior to service. Back at home for the Find Liz on social media https://www.instagram.com/lizstevensonfood/

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Cream Chapter

Dark chocolate mousse & black sesame praline with iced yoghurt & caramel

Liz Stevenson cooled things down a bit, by presenting a dynamic plate composed of a creamy dark chocolate mousse coated in crushed black sesame praline, with white chocolate and yoghurt sorbet, and a salted nut caramel.

Find the recipe page 38.

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Liz Stevenson

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Cream Chapter Tell us about your journey as a chef.

Hind Al Mulla

When I was 10 years old, I remember holding a book and walking inside. I flipped through the book and thought, ‘I want to make something.’ And then when I finished the cake, there was a hole in it ! Actually, it was my mom who taught me how to make my first cake. It was a simple approach, but still amazing.

My father loves food, and his appreciation of food is very high.

Honestly, I think deep down, he’d like to be a food critic.

When we were younger, we traveled to specific restaurants, which helped my brothers and sisters be open-minded towards food, and trying everything.

Additionally, I have to mention that my grandmother makes everything from scratch. And her desserts! All from scratch, without cookbooks or recipes.

From the beginning, there was a lot of trial and error. Once married and in my own home, I had fun experimenting in the kitchen. I could do whatever I wanted, and that was pastry. As I practiced on my own, I loved making desserts and having family and friends over. It was always a compliment when friends asked if the treats came from anywhere. They were shocked when I told them it was mine, and then they started asking me to make food.

Hind Al Mulla is an Emirati Chef whose passion for cooking started from a young age. The concept of Home Bakery began in her home kitchen in 2011, where she started the idea, and eventually expanded to an actual café in 2014. There are currently multiple locations in the United Arab Emirates, and Hind and her team will be expanding to Saudi Arabia in 2020.

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Hind Al Mulla At the same time, I was developing recipes, there was an unspoken judgment within the community. People didn’t necessarily understand a woman starting a business from home - why does she need to make money ? So, at the very beginning, I kept the launch to just my family. I started a blog that customers could order from, and sure enough, got my

“People didn’t necessarily understand a woman starting a business from home why does she need to make money ?”

So, after resting from the chaos

takes on old pastry recipes, and

of Ramadan, I started on opening Home Bakery. I knocked on

also a return to those who are focusing on baking.

many doors, and had many

What was the biggest risk

shut in her face. No one was taking me seriously. No one thought we could do it. Getting

I’m looking ahead to Saudi. Will people come? In the beginning, it was, let’s open one, then let’s

I got a break.

Galleria Mall was opening up. One of their highnesses was a customer and

has been a calculated risk.

said it was fine for me to have the space. Of course, two months before the restaurant opened, we had to close the home business and had some upset customers.

Then, in the soft launch, we learned a lot, and people started talking about us. We also had people looking at me (a local) who was working and were shocked. Somehow the word got back to His Highness Sheikh Mohammed, Vice President and Prime Minister of the United

The very first order

was for Abu Dhabi. And I didn’t have a driver. So, I asked my

send a positive message to the community.

mom, who loaned me one of the house drivers. We struggled with deliveries over the first summer

What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?

-- there were issues with quality control in the heat. And then I invested in a refrigerated car.

However, the commitment led to one of my busiest periods, and my delivery time pushed from a return of the next day to 2, 3, 4 days -- then one week. I don’t like asking people for help.

Each step has been a risk. Now

things registered was a struggle because no one had done this before. Especially a local. Finally,

Arab Emirates, and he came to the restaurant. His presence was meaningful and helped to

first call.

you took in your career ?

Don’t give up. If you believe in your dream, just go for it. People will tell you to stop, but keep going. You will face obstacles.

Overcome the obstacles. It works. You just have to believe.

What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ?

My predictions for pastry in 2020 are centered around modern 21

open another. Each location What does a typical day look like for you ?

It’s always busy ! As a working mother, I’m awake most days at 5:30 am, and have my children up at 6 am, then everyone is in the car to make the school run at 7 am. After that, I make time for myself and go to the gym, then to work. I spend much of my time in the Galleria location, where I have a large kitchen to develop recipes and then splits the time between my remaining restaurants and finishes some administrative work at home.

What is your favorite pastry?

I have to choose three: fondant with vanilla ice cream, chocolate souffle, and cheesecake, chilled not baked.

If you were a pastry, what would you be ?

A cookie! No hesitation.

Find Hind on social media https://www.instagram.com/home_bakery/ Find more details about Home Bakery https://homebakery.ae/

Cream Chapter

Authentically Emirati With an eye on unique plating and an hommage to her roots, restaurateur and Chef Hind Al Mulla incorporated dairy cream by bringing new dimensions to typical UAE sweets. She assembled an ‘Authentically Emirati’ entremet with cardamom and cinnamon whipped cream. The collection of elements came together with a surprising amount of texture and was one of the most visually stunning plates at the event.

Find the recipe page 39.

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Hind Al Mulla

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Cream Chapter

Nina Métayer

Nina Métayer was born in France.

She traveled to

Mexico and Australia, where she had opportunities to develop and increase her love for pastry. As a pastry chef, she has worked with numerous prestigious restaurants, including Michelin starred Chef Jean François Piège at Le Grand Restaurant. Nina has been recognized and received numerous awards, including Pastry Chef of the year in 2016 by Le Chef Magazine, and Pastry Chef of the year in 2017 by the Gault & Millau Guide. In September 2019, she opened her first bakery in London at Mercato Metropolitano, and she works as a consultant.

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Nina Métayer Tell us about your journey as a chef.

When I was 16, I went to Mexico for travel and really wanted to live there. I had it in my mind to be a baker, to make bread and sell products to restaurants. So, when I returned to France, I went to baking school. While I was there, one of my instructors told me I should learn English if I was going to work with hotels. So I went to Australia to study and work with another chef. After one

I spent two years at the hotel, then another in a hotel, with a Michelin

Where do you go to buy ingredients for your home

restaurant.

cooking ?

I fell into a similar pattern

I’m fairly particular where and

of working for prestigious restaurants and gaining experience, and then finally, I

what I purchase for home cooking. I buy from specific shops in Paris - the same where

went to work for myself. Not in Paris, but opening in London. I am also working on a project with

professionals shop. I’m going

my husband, a photographer,

should have access to the best

on a cookbook. My philosophy is relatively straightforward, I want

ingredients.

to try everything - to make good

year I came back to France and

choices, and make life interesting.

went to Paris, but couldn’t find a nice bakery. I only found places working with machines and not

What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?

the quality I wanted.

“My philosophy is relatively straightforward, I want to try everything to make good choices, and make life interesting.”

I applied to school and was accepted to the famous FERRANDI Program in Pastry.

It is a school where everybody is willing to learn. As I neared graduation, I began to look for work. I gave my CV to Le Meurice Hotel and went in at 10 PM for an interview. After graduation,

It’s important to know that it’s not easy. There are a lot of young people, but they are looking at a programme on television and imagine this is what it’s like. This is not the truth. Before you start, if you have all the facts, then you can make the right decision. I’m not trying to say that you can’t have a good life making cakes, of course you can. There are people who want to work hard, and positions that will take more involvement. The reality is that we all need to help each other when we are going through difficult times.

to sell some of these specialty products in London. Everyone

What does a typical day look like for you ?

No day is the same. I currently work in three different places. Of course, some weeks are busier in one restaurant than another, and I am solving problems. For example, in my current shop, the team knows what they should be doing. I worked with them for two months, and now they are doing it, and I can put my time into different areas.

What is your favorite pastry ?

When I am making pastry, I prefer to make plated desserts. It’s not staying long, and I get to play with different elements. However, eating the pastry, It’s crumble, or something simple, like a banana in caramel.

What was the biggest risk you took in your career ?

If you were a pastry, what would you be ?

I’m not very scared, so I do the things when they come along.

If I am scared about something,

Chantilly cream.

A straight forward dish, just sugar and cream.

I have to face it. I do my best. If it’s not for me, then at least it is experience. There is no fail, there is only learning.

Find Nina on social media https://www.instagram.com/ninametayer/ Find more details about Mercato Metropolitano https://www.mercatometropolitano.com/

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Cream Chapter

Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue When working with whipped cream, flavor infusion can be done using either cold or hot cream.

Nina MĂŠtayer was one of the few chefs to put together a fruit-forward dish and whipped up a creamy grapefruit meringue, then completed the plate with vanilla tonka chantilly.

Find the recipe page 41.

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Nina Métayer

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Cream Chapter

Najla Shamiri

Najla Shamiri is a Saudi Chef from Jeddah. As a chef, she has worked for different groups such as Rocco Forte Hotel and Le Concheur Chocolatier. Najla has acted as the Head Chef at Knead Bakery in Jeddah since 2018 and is now working as a private culinary consultant.

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Najla Shamiri Tell us about your journey as a chef.

What was the biggest risk

I liked to cook at a young age.

I had a master’s degree in

I originally started work as a nutritionist, then decided to get

nutrition, but went to the United States to study. When I made

a ticket to the United States.

the decision to go, in basically

After I arrived, I applied and was

five days, I quit my job, and only

accepted into The International Culinary School at The Art

found schooling after I arrived in Pittsburgh. Actually, my very

Institute of Pittsburgh, where

first job in a kitchen was as a

I got a degree in culinary arts.

Once I landed back in Jeddah,

trainee at Olive Garden !

I started doing things from home. I had my own vision and started with consulting, baking, and menu development. Most of my work came through consulting and I’ve enjoyed working with new clients. While I was focusing mostly on pastry and dessert, there was often some element of breakfast as well. As a consultant, in addition to some of my previously listed responsibilities, I also create and develop menus and recipes, train kitchen staff, and supervise quality control.

“It’s a job of passion, and you need it to survive and to be happy.”

What advice would you offer to young chefs starting out ?

you took in your career ?

When you dine out, do you have any favorite restaurants ?

I mostly have time for homecooked food; however, in Jeddah, I like Leylaty, a chain with several restaurants serving classical French desserts for thirty years.

Of all your recipes, which one are you the most proud of ?

My gluten-free chocolate cake.

I love chocolate, but it’s usually creamy and dense. My recipe is a bit lighter, because I use a different technique for the flour.

Generally, I’m usually happy to share my recipes as knowledge is helpful to be shared.

What is your favorite pastry ?

Why ?

An eclair - very light, and you can play with the flavours to eat and make.

If you were a pastry, what would you be ?

A caramel eclair !

You really have to be motivated.

It’s a job of passion, and you need it to survive and to be happy.

Find Najla on social media https://www.instagram.com/chef.najla/

29

Cream Chapter

Sticky dates cake

with salted caramel and infused Arabic coffee cream

Najla Shamiri also chose to feature an infused cream, putting together a sticky date cake with salted caramel.

Her use of infused Arabic coffee cream brought a unique lightness to the pastry.

Find the recipe page 42.

30

Najla Shamiri

31

Cream Chapter

Ida Martin

Ida started her career in London working in a fine dining restaurant she then moved to the House of Commons, where she had the chance to work on large banquets with the pastry team. After moving to Dubai, Ida took on more responsibilities as the Head Pastry Chef of Queen Elizabeth II in Dubai.

32

Ida Martin Tell us about your journey as a chef.

I started in the kitchen at 19 and worked in a fine dining restaurant at a casino in London.

I started out in the larder, but I wanted to be in pastry. At the time, there was no room. From there, I moved to the House of Commons and was still on larder for two months, and then a spot finally opened in pastry.

For three years, my job took all kinds of forms -- from casual to fine dining to banquets. This was a great experience, as I was not confined by only one style.

“Working as the head pastry chef, I’ll admit it’s not been easy to get here, especially as a woman.”

Basically, I was trying anything and everything. Then I came to Dubai on a limited contract.

While I worked for a number of restaurants and opening teams in the UAE, I was fortunate to end up at the Queen Elizabeth II, as part of the pre-opening team. From March 2018, I have worked on the ship, and it comes with different demands.

Working as the head pastry chef, I’ll admit it’s not been easy to get here, especially as a

woman. In the kitchen, it seems like there is always someone to knock you down.

What culinary trends do you see for 2020 ?

Flowers are out, and people are interested in a lot of clean eating. Everyone’s trying to be a bit more sustainable. And

What is your favorite pastry ?

The humble crumble -- as long as it's served with custard !

If you were a pastry, what would you be ?

Smoked chocolate ice cream.

I tried it on a culinary tour of Paris, and I’ve never forgotten it.

people will start to care more about where they get their food from and where it comes from.

What was the biggest risk you took in your career ?

My most significant risk in my career was my move to Dubai.

It wasn’t what I expected. I was planning my work experience in New York at the same time, but ultimately decided to take a job in the United Arab Emirates.

Of course, when I came over, I thought I would have access to the same products, and that everything would be available.

The reality was something a bit different.

When you dine out, do you have any favorite restaurants ?

When dining out in Dubai, which isn’t very often due to my schedule, I like Izu’s Brasserie in Citywalk, and I also enjoy Bleu Blanc.

Of all your recipes, which one are you the most proud of ?

One of my favorite recipes calls back to an ingredient from my childhood. It’s like a bread and butter pudding, but with rhubarb compote with vanilla custard.

33

Find out more about Ida and The Queen Elizabeth 2 : https://www.qe2.com/ https://www.instagram.com/chef_idavictoria/

Cream Chapter

Chocolate and orange entremet, pistachio whipped ganache Ida Martin created a dense chocolate and orange pastry, featuring a delectable pistachio whipped ganache. French cream was featured in almost every element of the dish, including the crĂŠmeux, mousse, and ganache.

Find the recipe page 42.

34

Ida Martin

35

Cream Chapter

Recipes

36

Recipes p.14

ASSEMBLY

Bake at 120° C for 40 to 60 min, turn the tray after the first 30 min. Turn off the

Slightly melt the ganache.

oven and allow to cool com-

Using a teaspoon create

pletely.

lines on your plate. Place a pavlova on the plate and

DARK CHOCOLATE

fill it with the whipped

GANACHE

Rose and Honey Cream and sliced strawberries.

Dark Chocolate and Walnut Pavlova

140g 70% Chocolate

Pipe some of the cream

150g Cream

onto the plate as well.

50g Butter

Garnish with Rose White

Melt over Bain Marie, mix till

Chocolate

well combined.

nuts and dried Roses.

ROSE WHITE PAVLOVA

CHOCOLATE CRUMBLED

Yield – 20 pcs - 20g each

150g Caster Sugar

120g Egg Whites

40g Water

250g Sugar

105g White Chocolate

1 tsp White Wine Vinegar

10g Rose Water

1 tsp Corn Flour

Pink Food Coloring

1 tsp Vanilla

Boil water and sugar until

100g Walnuts, chopped 100g Dark Chocolate, melted Maldon Salt

just about to turn brown.

Whisk in white chocolate, rose water and red food

Preheat the oven to 120° C.

coloring.

Whisk egg whites in an electric mixer fitted with a

ROSE AND HONEY CREAM

whisk attachment until it forms a stiff peak, add the

400g Cream

sugar one tablespoon at a

125g Mascarpone

time until the meringue is

15g Dried Roses

stiff and glossy.

25g Honey

Whisk in vinegar, corn flour

1 tsp Rose Water

and vanilla.

Heat cream, dried roses,

Fold in half of the chopped

honey and rose water till

walnut then swirl in the ¾

50° C.

melted chocolate.

Allow

Weigh 20g of meringue onto

baking

paper

then

shape each one into circles creating a crater by making

to

cool

complete,

ideally chill over night (this allows for better infusion) then strain. Whisk cream and mascarpone.

the sides a little higher than the middle. Sprinkle with walnuts and maldon salt then drizzle chocolate.

37

Crumble,

Wal-

Cream Chapter p.18 p.18

BLACK SESAME PRALINE

Lightly toast the nuts for 4-5

CARDAMOM SALTED

WITH SEA SALT (MAKES 385G)

min on 170° C and set aside

CARAMEL

to cool.

200g black sesame seeds

Make a dry caramel with the

100g caster sugar

150g caster sugar

sugar, then stir in the butter,

90g whipping cream

25g unsalted butter

followed by the cream.

18g liquid glucose

10g fleur de sel or sea salt

Continue to boil for 1-2 min,

Lightly toast the sesame

then remove from the heat

seeds for 4-5 min on 170° C. Using

Dark chocolate mousse & black sesame praline with iced yoghurt & caramel DARK CHOCOLATE MOUSSE (MAKES 500G) 1.5g gelatin leaf (can substitute with 1.5g gelatin powder soaked in 2tsp of cold water)

a

clean

and

to cool slightly.

dry

Gently melt the milk choco-

saucepan, make a dry cara-

late, then add the cooled cara-

mel with the sugar over me-

mel in stages, stirring until the

dium-low heat.

mixture is thick and glossy.

Once the caramel reaches

Fold in the chopped toasted

an amber color, add the

nuts and sea salt.

butter in small pieces and

20g unsalted butter 1g sea salt 2 each cardamom pods, crushed

Bring

the

cream

and

glucose to a boil with the cardamom & salt and set aside.

Next, make a dry caramel with the sugar. Once it reaches an amber color, slowly and carefully add the

stir well (be very careful of

DARK CHOCOLATE

hot splatter).

BISCUITS

Add the sesame seeds, and

cream.

Turn the heat to low. Add the butter in pieces and

turn to coat thoroughly in

80g caster sugar

the sugar, until all of the

46g dark brown sugar

seeds are covered.

68g unsalted butter

whisk to combine.

Remove from the heat and strain.

Turn the praline onto a

5g vanilla essence

120g full fat milk

greased surface or silicone

2 ea egg yolk

Finish with a handblender

225g whipping cream

mat and flatten using a

162gm T45 flour

and cool completely.

spatula. Or, place a sheet of

14gm cocoa powder

baking paper on top and roll

2.5g baking soda

flat using a rolling pin.

64g dark chocolate, melted

150g dark chocolate (64%)

Bloom the gelatin in cold water.

Sprinkle with the fleur de

Sift the dry ingredients to-

Warm the milk and add the

sel and allow to cool com-

gether and set aside.

gelatin. Stir to dissolve and

pletely.

set aside.

Place the butter, sugars and

Once cooled, chop finely or

vanilla together in the bowl

Melt the chocolate gently

crush and store in an air-

of a tabletop mixer fitted

over a bain-marie. Do not

tight container at room tem-

with the paddle attachment.

overheat.

perature.

Whip the cream to soft

ingredients, followed by the

CARAMEL

melted chocolate. Mix well.

favorite dish or mould and chill until set, about 2-3 hours.

Wrap the dough and place 70g caster sugar

in a chiller to rest and set

100g whipping cream

for at least 20 min. Roll into

30g unsalted butter

a thin sheet and dock using a

100g chopped mixed nuts (hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts or just use one type)

dough docker or a fork.

2g fleur de sel or sea salt

for 4-6 min.

Bake at 180° C, medium fan,

60g milk chocolate

Cool and crush.

38

250g full fat milk 80g whipping cream 90g demerara sugar

40g white chocolate

& MILK CHOCOLATE

Pour the mousse into your

container and frozen.

250g yoghurt

the melted chocolate.

this stage, and that’s ok !

churner, or simply poured into a

20g liquid glucose

addition. Add the sifted dry

mousse will be very loose at

an ice cream using an ice cream

time, mixing well after each SALTED NUT

and gelatin mixture. The

This recipe can be prepared as

Add the egg yolks one at a

peaks, then gradually fold in

Finally, fold in the milk

ICED YOGHURT

Place the white chocolate in a mixing bowl.

Next place the milk, cream, sugar and glucose in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat.

Pour the boiled milk and cream over the chocolate.

Allow the mixture to sit for one minute, then whisk until smooth.

Recipes Cool the milk and chocolate

CARAMEL TAHINI

p.22

mixture, then add the yo-

start getting thick.

In another saucepan make

ghurt. Mix together using a

100g caster sugar

the sugar a dry caramel

whisk or handblender.

10g water

and add it to the hot flour

If you have an ice cream

150g cream

mixture.

machine, you can churn

75g rahash (compressed tahini, also called halawa)

Add

the mixture right away. Or,

20g glucose

pour it into a container and

Place the sugar, water and

freeze.

glucose in a sauce pan and cook on low heat until

ASSEMBLY

golden brown , then add

Authentically Emirati

Make a large quenelle of the mousse and coat with cru-

the cream and allow to boil .

Take off heat add the rahash and use a hand blender to

shed sesame praline.

Place a spoonful of the

100g Sago (tapioca)

the quenelle of mousse on

200g water

top.

200g caster sugar

ful on the plate next to the

Make quenelle or ball of the iced yogurt sorbet and place on top of the crushed biscuit Drizzle with the caramel sauce,

and

gold leaf.

Serve.

garnish

with

in freezer to set.

PUMPKIN HALWA

110g flour

21g rose water

Prepare molds very lightly spray and rub with cloth to

start cooking it, keep aside.

get excess oil out.

In another bowl soak the

Pour the sugar in the molds

saffron with the rose water,

and while its hot sprinkle

keep aside to infuse.

the sesame and rahash.

After it’s soaked you can place the sago with the to boil.

mixture,

and

cardamom,

mix

add

to

25g almonds roughly chopped & toasted

the

25g walnuts roughly chopped & toasted

well, desired

should

25g pistachio roughly chopped

feel

& toasted

sticky and elastic. Be careful shape

of

tapioca

In another pan brown the the

flour

and

100g eggs 90g caster sugar 4.5g vanilla extract 50g milk

100g flour 5g baking powder

saffron and keep aside

7g cardamom powder

In a deep sauce pan, put in the corn flour and water

39

once soft mash together.

Soak the rose water with

together bring to boil, it

and

medium heat until its soft,

1g saffron

0.5g saffron

the

pumpkin

5g rose water

54g rose water

not to over cook and loose

the

water in a saucepan on

SPICED CHIFFON CAKE

43g butter

Add the saffron and rose

Cook

and mix well.

54g rose water

sago mixture.

keep aside.

the

all the other ingredients

125g caster sugar

caramelize add it to the

saffron with rose water, and

pumpkin mix together, add

333g water

the sugar, once it starts to

In a small bowl infuse the

Mix

60g corn flour

In another pot dry caramel

0.5g saffron

flour until its really dark.

HALWA WITH NUTS

water in a large pot, bring

water

110g caster sugar

Cook sugar to a dry caramel.

water 2 hours before you

pearl

Shape in a mold. And place

150g water

50g rahash (compressed tahini, also called halawa)

5g cardamom powder

the

and set aside to cool.

AND REHASH

50g sesame toasted

45g rose water

consistency,

place a cartouche on top

CARAMEL WITH SESAME

100g caster sugar

1g saffron

water

Pour into a container and

5g cardamom powder

Soak the tapioca in the

mousse

remaining

150g pumpkin

side of the plate, and place

biscuit, and place a spoon-

the

smooth it out.

SPICED SAGO

salted nut caramel to one

Crush the dark chocolate

all

ingredients and mix well.

should

Cream Chapter Preheat oven to 185° C.

50g caster sugar

Place in fridge to cool, using

Go over the brown sauce

In a small bowl add the

25g water

a paring knife carve out

with the brush again to get

saffron with rose water to

2g cinnamon

the edges (you will know

a dark brown color on plate.

infuse, keep aside.

Boil the sugar and water,

its done when the caramel

Gently remove the film.

In an electric mixer add

once

comes out through the first

Remove the Emirati pudding

the eggs, sugar and vanilla

reduce the heat, add the

carve) and flip over. You can

from its foil casing and cut

extract, beat until pale and

cinnamon

use a cutter to cut it neatly.

with a cutter to desired shape

airy. Then add the rose

pumpkin slices, cook for

water

only few seconds you want

with

saffron,

and

sugar and

dissolves, then

the

place in the middle of the Get the halwa with nuts

milk.

to keep the bite on the

Then add the dry ingre-

pumpkin slice.

35ml orange juice

dients and fold gently with

Gently place on a baking

1/2 orange zest

a spatula. Place in a cake

paper to retain its shape.

125g cream 6.5g cinnamon powder 12.5g icing sugar

Whip

cream

and

sugar

the spiced chiffon cake, and

orange

cut into 5cm by 5cm cubes

250ml evaporated milk

sugar, and bring to boil.

and place 2 cubes on either

63g caster sugar

In a bowl whisk together the

side of the plate.

butter and the orange sugar

Place

mixture. Sift in the flour.

pumpkins on either side of

and

caster

nibbed pistachios and whisk.

Infuse the evaporated milk

Spread in a small tray and place in the fridge for 5 min.

and saffron low heat, do not

Using a spoon or spatula

boil, and keep aside over

Whip the cream and sugar

Place the overnight mixture

together once you get stiff

back on low heat, gently

peaks gently fold in the

steam.

cardamom powder.

whisk the eggs and sugar

spread the tuile mixture on

In

another

a silkomatt baking matt.

bowl

and

then

take

ASSEMBLY

off

Preheat oven to 150° C.

of the film and place on the

and keep stirring until the desired color is achieved.

Use

a

hand

blender

smooth it out.

SPICED PUMPKIN SLICES 10 slices of pumpkin (2mm thickness, 50mm in diameter)

to

the plate. Using a melon scoop, warm it in hot water and

create

deep

curves

into the cream . On one we

into a ball and dip the top with pistachio powder, and

of the plate. Spray one side

until its brown, add the oil

cream on the other side of

tahini.

the air bubbles. Keep aside. pan

of the plate and the other

and the other the caramel

10g vegetable oil

sauce

Pipe one cream on one side

shape immediately.

Cut a thick film to the size

size

the plate.

will place the spiced sago

if needed. Try and get rid of

medium

spiced

Once its out of the oven

heat. Pass through a sieve

a

sliced

Bake at 170° C for 10 min.

50g flour

in

the

For the pumpkin halwa roll

temper it to the infused milk

juice

right of the emirati pudding.

Slice the top and bottom of

Add the orange zest and the

1g saffron

night to intensify the flavors.

flour

with

Custard

with cinnamon, cardamom

the

caramel

In another sauce pan whisk

8 pods cardamom

Brown

the

sesame and rahash to the

40g water

cinnamon powder.

BROWN FLOUR SAUCE

Place

63g soft flour

sauce pan to melt.

1 cinnamon stick

12.5 icing sugar

pudding.

Place the butter in a small

peaks gently fold in the

5.5g cardamom powder

this to the left of emirati

100g nibbed pistachio

125g caster sugar

125g egg

125g cream

halwa with nuts in it, place

Caramel

together once you get stiff

CARDAMOM CREAM

the tuile and then place the

50g butter

EMIRATI PUDDING

CINNAMON CREAM

out of its shape mold, place

125g caster sugar

tin and bake at 185° C for 40 min.

plate.

PISTACHIO TUILE

plate to stick and stay in

Make the caramel once you

place.

get a brown color place

Used a thick brush mix the

in the foil ramekin equal

brown flour sauce well, using

amounts of caramel. And

a tabletop turner, turn the

place in blast chiller to set

table and gently brush in

5-10min, once its set pour

circles until desired diameter.

the infused mixture and

Do this once only.

place in a water bath and

Place the plate in the blast

cook in the oven at 150° C

chiller for 5 min.

for 35 min.

40

place on top of the emirati pudding, and place a gold foil on top Place a gold foil on the tuile.

And get some of the excess saffron used and place on top of the halwa with nuts.

Lightly

dust

edges

pistachio powder.

with

Recipes p.26

ASSEMBLY

Let it cool, then mix with the

grapefruit juice. Let this mixture rest for 12 hours then

use

machine

an to

ice

30 pieces Grapefruit

cream

create

Dried grapefruit zest to taste

the

200g Marzipan

sorbet.

Dried vanilla powders to taste

Use a cookie cutter to cut

GRAPEFRUIT JELLY

the 2100g Grapefruit juice

Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue

the center of the plate.

Place a dab of marzipan on top.

Heat the grapefruit juice

Stick on the meringue shell.

and mix in the gelatin.

Spread

onto

a

Garnish

greased

pan and let it set in the for

2

250g Confectioner's sugar

grapefruit

Arrange a few fresh grape-

hours

fruit slices.

TONKA VANILLA WHIPPED

pastry bag to create a pretty

CREAM

swirl

500g Caster sugar

electric

mixer,

beat the egg whites into peaks with the caster sugar and add the sifted powders.

whipped

Decorate with dried, can-

1kg Mascarpone

died zests, fresh grapefruit

210g Confectioner's sugar

segments, and dried vanilla

1 Tonka bean

powder...

3g Vanilla pod

Grate the tonka bean and

with the mixture and bake

mix it with liquid cream. Let

them on a baking sheet for

it infuse, cold, for 3 hours

30 min at 160° C then dry

then strain.

them at 100° C.

Combine with the sugar

Let them cool then scratch

and mascarpone and whip

them with a dremel.

it with the electric mixer.

GRAPEFRUIT AND

CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT

VANILLA SORBET

ZEST

630g Water

5 Grapefruits

1470g Grapefruit juice

500g Grapefruit juice

5 Vanilla pods

500g Caster sugar

210g Sugar

Remove the peel from the

12g Stabilizer

tonka

5L Liquid cream

Form pretty, smooth balls

108g Glucose spray

of

cream.

250g Almond powder

an

with

sorbet.

Use a 12mm wide plain tip

500g Egg whites

Using

into

3 Vanilla pods

before slicing

MERINGUE

jelly

200g Prepared gelatin

refrigerator

ALMOND SOUFFLÉ

grapefruit

circles and place them in

grapefruit making sure to discard all of the pith.

Heat the water to 50° C. Add

Slice the zest into a thin

the mix of sugar, glucose

julienne,

spray, and stabilizer. Add

times, then simmer in the

the vanilla and bring to a

syrup for around 15 min.

blanch

three

boil.

41

Cream Chapter p.30

COFFEE CREMUXE

Melt

(MAKES 850G)

sugar over 4 times.

Add

90g Sugar

repeat until you get caramel

900g Heavy Cream

color. Then add butter and

600g Mascarpone cheese

stir slowly.

In a pot, add 400g cream,

Boil cream and salt. Add to

sugar, vanilla and coffee

STICKY DATES CAKES

caramel.

powder. Let it simmer and

Cool

remove after 30 min. Strain

down

and

squeeze bottle.

and add the gelatin.

Add the rest of the cream cheese.

put

in

Chocolate and orange entremet, pistachio whipped ganache

Use hand blender to mix.

DARK CHOCOLATE

Cool down in chiller for at

(30 MINI CAKES)

and

Put back into heat and

100g Arabic Coffee powder

mascarpone

p.34

1/4 of sugar.

12g Gelatin

and

sugar

add

the heat and add another

2 Vanilla beans Pods

with salted caramel and infused Arabic coffee cream

1/4

then

caramelize then take out of

400g Heavy Cream

Sticky dates cake

glucose,

MOUSSE

least 4 hours.

250g Dates, seeded, chopped

Using the whisk attachment,

6g Baking soda

mix the cream until soft

350ml Boiling Water

peak when ready to use.

450ml Milk 120g Egg Yolk 60g Sugar

125g Softened Butter

1050g Dark chocolate 66%

95g Light brown sugar, Demerara

CARAMELIZED PISTACHIO

10g Vanilla extract

(MAKES 1700G)

1500g Whipping Cream

260g All- purpose flour

1250g Row pistachio

Boil the milk. Soften the gelatin in the cold water.

1.5g Salt

125g Butter

6g Baking Powder

200ml Water

Preheat deck oven to 180° C.

5g Sea salt

2 Eggs

Mix the egg yolks with the sugar, add the boiling milk Pour the mixture over the chocolate to melt.

Grease and flour baking pan.

625g Sugar

Soak dates and baking soda in

Boil water and sugar in a

boiling water (leave for 20 min).

pot until crystalized.

In a mixing bowl with whisk

Add pistachio and continue

attachment,

stirring

mix

sugar,

until

Whip the cream, to soft peaks.

Fold into the chocolate mixture and leave to set.

caramelized VANILLA CREMEUX

vanilla and butter until pale

(around 20 min).

and creamy. Add eggs one

Remove from heat and add

at a time.

butter. Spread in a silicon mate.

10 leaves (plus 2 grade

Sift dry ingredients and add

After cooling down keep in an

dependant)

them gradually with dates

air tide container, room temp.

1 litre Cream 10pc / 200g Egg Yolk

mix. Don’t over mix.

Bake for 30 min. Let it cool

SALTED CARAMEL

down for 10 min. Then move

(MAKES 1700G)

100g Sugar 1pc Vanilla Pod Gelatin 10 leaves (plus 2 grade dependant)

to cooling rack.

Glaze with caramel.

460g Glucose

Soak the gelatin in iced water. Warm the cream.

800g Sugar 190g Butter

Slice the Vanilla Pod in half, length ways.

20g Salt 800ml Cream

Mix the egg yolk, vanilla

42

Recipes seeds and sugar. Pour the cream over the eggs and sugar mixture.

Slowly whisk the mix over a double boiler until the mixture thickens slightly without scrambling, pour into desired dishes and set

CONFIT ORANGE PEEL

cocoa

& POACHED ORANGE

baking sheet. Bake at 170° C for 5-7 min.

SEGMENTS

400g Sugar

MANDARIN GEL

Peel the oranges set aside the skin for confit.

1kg Mandarin Puree

Segment the oranges carefully trim if necessary.

50g Corn Flour 100g Sugar 50g Water

Warm 500gr of the mandarin puree with the sugar.

Dilute the corn flour with the water and add to the heated puree.

Continuously stir until the mixture starts to thicken.

Take off of the heat then slowly whisk in the remainder of the Mandarin puree until a thick smooth consistency is achieved.

Cool the mixture completely then bottle for later.

Roast the pistachio, at 160c for 8 mins no fan.

Set aside to cool the crush for garnish.

Boil the sugar water and vanilla pods.

Once at boil temperature take off the heat for 3 min the lightly poached the orange segments.

Set aside to blow torch later.

For the confit orange peel, slice to thin Juliennes and place into the sugar syrup.

Place back on the heat at a slow simmer cook until the orange peel is tender.

Cool then set aside for garnish.

PISTACHIO WHIPPED GANACHE 900g Cream 100g Glucose

380g Whole eggs

1120g White Chocolate

40g Egg Yolk

50g Pistachio Paste

160g Sugar

Warm the cream. Pour over the white chocolate, pistachio paste and glucose.

Whisk until smooth, set aside overnight. To use

3g Salt 40g Butter (melted) 40g Pistachio Paste 60g Flour 2pc Cream gas charge

Whisk the eggs and sugar together. Mix the pistachio paste with the melted butter.

Combine the two mixtures.

whisk until soft peaks.

GRUE TUILLE

Fold in the salt and flour, ensuring no lumps.

200g Butter

Pour the mixture into the cream syphon cylinders and gas the mixture with 2 canisters.

50g Golden Syrup

Empty the mixture into 4-5 paper cups and microwave at 45-60 sec.

Melt the butter with the sugar and golden syrup.

a

300g Pistachio

PISTACHIO MICROWAVE SPONGE

on

ROASTED PISTACHIOS

900ml Water ½ pod Vanilla

Place

Cut desired shape and leave to cool.

6pc Oranges

aside for service.

nibs.

100g Sugar 265g Flour 75g Cocoa Nibs

Mix in the flour and the

43

Cream Chapter

A publication by CNIEL and The European Commission for the Cream of Europe program

Cream Chapter ISSUE N°1 - MIDDLE EAST - 2019

PUBLICATION DIRECTOR LAURENT DAMIENS

COORDINATION MARIE-LAURE MARTIN

WRITING COURTNEY BRANDT

ART DIRECTION SPATULE PROD’ : LEA CLAVEL, DAMIEN PAQUIOT

PHOTOGRAPHY SPATULE PROD’ : LEA CLAVEL, GUILLAUME CORONA

Rise to the top with French Cream

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