ROAD TRIP

A 30-mile stretch of the Gunnison River takes boaters from Escalante Canyon to the Whitewater boat ramp. Most of the float is Class I and II rapids, as it passes through some 800-foot canyon walls and dramatic desert landscape.

There are ample opportunities for camping and hiking along the float. The river passes by the trailhead for Big Dominguez Canyon before it enters the wilderness area. Free, self-issue permits are required for overnight trips and can be obtained at the boat launch.

Miles of existing dirt roads and 4x4 trails within the area allow motorized recreation, making it an attractive destination for dirt bikes and side-by-sides. Bikes and motorized vehicles are not allowed in wilderness areas, so head to the northern or southern edge of Dominguez Escalante NCA to explore. Tabeguache Trail and Nine Mile Hill within the Cactus Park area are popular trails.

Looking for relief from the hot Colorado sun? Stop at one of the swimming holes along the Big Dominguez Trail or visit the Potholes, an idyllic swimming spot consisting of small pools tucked along steep canyon walls. Located 12 miles up Escalante Canyon Road, numerous swimming areas within the Potholes Recreation Area can be reached by scrambling down a smooth rock face. Swim with caution, as hidden currents in the Potholes can be dangerous and pull swimmers underwater, regardless of ability.

Several designated campsites with some facilities are available at the Potholes Recreation area; otherwise, there is dispersed camping on BLM land throughout the region. Continue past the Potholes Recreation Area on Escalante Canyon Road for dispersed campsites tucked against the canyon wall or overlooking the river below. Another option is Escalante Overlook Road, located a few miles north. This area has plenty of open land and a few spots perched on a cliff high above the Gunnison River. Just beware, many of the dispersed areas are filled with small cacti, so watch where you step and sleep.

Ready to head to Dominguez Escalante NCA? Hovering around 5,000 feet, the high desert plains stay mostly free of snow other than a few months in the dead of winter, but spring is the best time to explore the area. At this time, temperatures are warm but not yet sweltering and water levels are high enough to float the river and fill the watering holes for a refreshing dip. +

By kim fuller

Our train from Geneva rolled into Zermatt on a crisp and clear evening in late January. Weary from the international trip but energized by our arrival to Switzerland, we grabbed our luggage and walked out of the station to find the electric taxi designated to Chalet Hotel Schönegg. I looked up and around, eagerly hoping to catch a glimpse of the 14,692-foot peak that towers over town.

It had been over a decade since I’d been to Zermatt, but familiarities of the alpine village came rushing back as we began riding through the village. No cars are permitted, only bicycles and electric taxis and buses. Most often, you’ll see people walking on the path by the river or the cobblestone streets that wind throughout town.

We turned a corner, and the Matterhorn came into view. Of all the impressive mountains in the world, there are many reasons why “the peak of the meadows” is so celebrated. What seems most notable is the jaw-dropping prominence and scale of the lone peak from every angle. Wherever you are in Zermatt, and from its other side in Cervino, Italy, the Matterhorn is a magnificent backdrop to the memories of a lifetime that you’re making.

Chalet Hotel Schönegg is a Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel with a gourmet restaurant, offering exceptional service and an incredible location just above the main village of Zermatt. The Relais & Châteaux hotel portfolio boasts incredible properties around the world, including two in Colorado: Dunton Hot Springs near Telluride and The Little Nell in Aspen. This affiliation drew us to the property, and it lived up to our expectations thoroughly. We enjoyed a quaint and lovely guest room with a balcony offering sweeping views of town and the Matterhorn, a lovely Swiss breakfast buffet every morning, a ski locker room and a spa area with a whirlpool, along with a number of other sweet details and amenities.

While prices fluctuate according to the season, Chalet Hotel Schönegg was mid-range yet didn’t skimp at all on high standards of European hospitality. Next door is a lower priced sister hotel, Hotel Alpenroyal, and our friend who stayed there had no complaints at all.

A winter visit to Zermatt is everything you’d imagine from an idyllic European ski town. Rows of authentic shops and restaurants line the streets; in the morning, people are headed toward the mountain and in the evening, coming down from it. While skiing is the main recreation attraction in the snowy months, miles of winter hiking trails are marked and well-maintained for daily use.

Zermatt is Europe’s highest ski resort, offering a few distinct areas like the Sunnegga-Rothorn with sweeping piste terrain and great views of the Matterhorn, the Gornergrat area accessed from a scenic alpine railway and Schwarzsee-Klein Matterhorn glacier area that links to Cervina, Italy. At the top of the Klein Matterhorn at 12,532 feet, you

We turned a corner, and the Matterhorn came into view. What seems most notable is the jaw-dropping prominence and scale of the lone peak from every angle. The Matterhorn is a magnificent backdrop to the memories of a lifetime that you’re making.