Devon Country Gardener November 2016

Devon

Issue No 155 November 2016

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AWESOME ORCHIDS colour and beauty for winter days

How to garden for a healthy heart THE BRILLIANCE OF BARE ROOT ROSES Autumn bulb planning for next year’s colour

Gardening things to do this month throughout Devon

www.countrygardener.co.uk Autumn at RHS Rosemoor Plant Centre Great selection of top quality plants backed by our 5-year hardy plant guarantee. Featuring plants for autumn interest, Award of Garden Merit plants, seeds, sundries, pots, tools... All your garden needs!

PLANTS IN THE SPOTLIGHT EVENTS - expert advice and information.* FREE ENTRY to the Plant Centre & Gift Shop. * See website for details. All Plant Centre events are free!

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Christmas

Tasty teas, treats & gifts

WITH BERNAVILLE The festive season is fast approaching and here at Bernaville Nurseries we have everything you need from real trees, lighting, decorations and crackers to tasty foodie treats and special things for special people!

So if you’re looking for inspiration for your home and garden visit the experts - Bernaville Nurseries.

Gifts for all the family

Fill your garden with winter colour

Clothing, shoes, boots & slippers

Fresh food, Café & Restaurant

Bernaville Nurseries Call 01392 851326 ● www.bernaville.co.uk

Find us on the A377 Exeter to Crediton road.

Bring nature into your garden!

Contents Gill Heavens believes borders should be alive and vibrant for as long as possible and not just summer pleasures. She selects her favourite herbaceous perennials for borders for all year round beauty.

Page 8

Herb tea time Herb teas made from home grown herbs should never be flat and flavourless. Whether it's fruity or spicy, soothing or lively, simple or sophisticated, it needs taste and personality. Page 15

Issue No 128 November 2016

Cotswolds

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Ledbury

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Christmas Trees in stock from late November Festive Wreaths, Planted Containers & Baskets Gift Vouchers

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ON THE COVER

Our cover this issue celebrates How to garden for a healthy heart the beauty of orchids, a diverse and widespread family with blooms that are sensationally colourful and often fragrant. They bring with them much-needed colour and glamour to the early months of winter and remain one of the most popular Christmas presents.

AWESOME ORCHIDS

Christmas is coming...

If you haven’t started planting spring bulbs now then you’re falling behind schedule. We look at the opportunities to add some real razzamatazz for next year. Page 16

Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb Autumn and it’s time to think about rhubarb. It’s the ideal time to plant rhubarb crowns from now until the end of December when they are dormant. Page 19

WORKING IN THE NOVEMBER GARDEN There’s still no slowing down when it comes to jobs in the gardening with leaves to be cleared and planning to do for the spring. Page 22

colour and beauty for winter days

THE BRILLIANCE OF BARE ROOT ROSES

Autumn bulb planning for next year’s colour

Gardening things to do this month throughout the Cotswolds

www.countrygardener.co.uk

Road, Ledbury. HR8 2PZ k

- ELIZABETH LAWRENCE

MORE ADVENTURE IN YOUR AUTUMN BULB PLANTING?

Vibrant all year round borders

Centre

"Even if something is left undone, everyone must take time to sit still and watch the leaves turn."

Christmas is coming AT THE GARDEN LOVERS GARDEN CENTRE On A423 Southam Road, Nr. Farnborough, Banbury OX17 1EL. Tel: 01295 690479

Open Six Days a Week. Tue-Sat: 9am - 5pm Sun: 10.30am - 4.30pm

Open Bank Holiday Mondays

www.farnboroughgardencentre.co.uk

Editorial Publisher & Editor: Alan Lewis alan@countrygardener.co.uk Tel: 01823 431767 Time Off: Kate Lewis timeoff@countrygardener.co.uk Design & Production Aidan Gill aidan@countrygardener.co.uk Gemma Stringer gemma@countrygardener.co.uk

The appeal of bare root roses

Tammy Falloon runs St. Bridget Nurseries in Exeter where 200 different varieties of roses are grown and she explains why bare root roses are better and how you can get the most from them. Page 24

Advertising Sales Cath Pettyfer Devon & Dorset cath.pettyfer@countrygardener.co.uk Tel: 01837 82660 Ava Bench Somerset & Classified ava@countrygardener.co.uk classified@countrygardener.co.uk Tel: 01278 671037

Corina Reay Cotswolds corina@countrygardener.co.uk Tel: 01823 410098 Rob Houghton Hampshire & Sussex rob@countrygardener.co.uk Tel: 01614 283230

P LANT A TREE T O SAVE THE P LANET?

Small is beautiful if you want to try and save the planet by planting trees as our expert Mark Hinsley advises.

Page 27

Gardening and a healthy heart Elizabeth McCorquodale says the perfect combination of reducing stress through gardening plus growing heart healthy foods should be a mantra for us all to follow. Page 28

Early winter gardening things to do It may be early winter but there are still lots of gardening events, visits and things to do. Our popular Time-Off has all the details. Page 34

‘If I'm ever reborn, I want to be a gardener - there's too much to do for one lifetime!’

- KARL FOERSTER Accounts Sam Bartholomew sam@countrygardener.co.uk Tel: 01823 430639 Distribution Pat Eade pateade@btinternet.com Tel: 01594 543790 Follow us on Twitter @countrygardenuk

The Country Gardener magazines are distributed FREE at Nurseries, garden centres, National Trust Properties, open gardens, garden machinery specialists, country stores and farm shops in each county.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or made available in any form, without the written permission of the copyright holder and Publisher, application for which should be made to the Publisher. Unsolicited material: do not send or submit your only version of manuscripts and/or photographs/transparencies to us as these cannot be returned to you. While every care is taken to ensure that material submitted is priced accurately and completely, we cannot be responsible or liable for any loss or damage suffered. Views and/or opinions expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent those of Country Gardener or the Publisher.

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...IN DEVON

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A look at news, events and happenings in Devon

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restaurant will be serving simple family suppers, and the Rosemoor shop will remain open until 7.30pm.

The launch of the illuminations coincides with the start of the annual Winter Sculpture Exhibition and Rosemoor is also presenting an indoor live theatre production on Hans Christian Anderson’s ‘The Snow Queen’ with two performances on Saturday and Sunday. ‘The Snow Queen’ live theatre performance by Quantum Theatre is on Saturday, 19th November, performances at 12 noon and 3.30pm in the Lecture Hall. Tickets: adults ÂŁ8; children ÂŁ6 plus normal garden admission.

Tickets limited to 100 per performance. Book tickets by Thursday 17 November on 0203 176 5830.

Set against the dramatic backdrop of the garden in winter with its amazing textures and surprising colour and scent, the sculpture exhibition is an exciting and eclectic mix of exhibits from a diverse collection of sculptors, and using a wide variety of media including from steel and glass to cement and pottery. Visitors can pick up a trail and see how many sculptures they can discover through the garden. Most of the pieces exhibited are for sale. Free, guided sculpture walks leave the Visitor Centre at 11.30am most Wednesday mornings.

RHS Garden Rosemoor, Great Torrington, Devon EX38 8PH . www.rhs.org.uk/rosemoor Tel:01805 626810

t ory

Hi-tech illumination will brighten up Rosemoor gardens

Winter to be lit up at RHS Rosemoor For the first time, the Winter Garden at RHS Garden Rosemoor is to be illuminated by innovative hi-tech, dynamic, constantly colour-changing lighting to provide a magical trail around the trees and shrubs, starting on Friday 18th November and going through to 7th January.

The illuminations have been created using a permanent electricity supply, so there will be no noisy, smelly generators and LED lights have also been used for low energy consumption.

On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays the gardens will be open until 8.30pm to make the most of the effects of the lighting into the evening hours, and on those days garden entry will be half price after 4pm.The garden kitchen

Poltimore House Christmas Fair

You can enjoy the festive atmosphere at Poltimore House Christmas Fair on Saturday 20th November. The house will be open and seasonally decorated with a range of stalls selling gifts, many handmade.

The fair opens at 10am and closes at 3pm. Entrance is ÂŁ1.50. The house will be open with stalls and festively decorated. There is a long running restoration programme Poltimore House - a long running restoration programme at Poltimore House and every event at the Grade II* listed house helps to bring it back to life.

The project at Poltimore aims to create a place which focuses education, training and research, to share knowledge and create opportunities for innovation helping communities and organisations secure a sustainable future.

It also aims to develop an active and innovative learning hub supporting studios and workshops for arts, traditional crafts and the creative industries, a venue for arts events and for conferences.

Poltimore House, Poltimore, Exeter EX4 0AU. Tel: 07767771590. For more about Poltimore House and its programme of events visit the website at www.poltimore.org

4

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Willowbrook Nursery and Garden Centre your local family-run garden centre A wide choice of award-winning shrubs, bedding, trees, herbs, climbers, perennials, alpines, roses, soft and top fruit & more.

We also have a well-stocked shop, Pet & Bird Centre, Aquatic Centre, Shed, Cafe & Tea Room serving home cooked food.

Spring Flowering Bulbs For Planting Now Autumn / Winter Flowering Heathers Selection of Trees, Shrubs, Fruit, Roses, Perennials, Alpines, Seeds & more...

National Garden Gift Vouchers

Help Advice & Friendly Service Check web for details or find us on Facebook!

www.covegardennursery.co.uk Tel: 01398 331946 Find us on the A396, Cove, Tiverton, EX16 7RU

john@johnfullertrees.com www.johnfullertrees.com Mob: 07977 486135 Tel: 01647 432110

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Huge selection of Pet Food and accessories Wonderful Saddlery department and Country and Workwear clothing Feed for Cattle, Sheep, Horses, Alpacas and Chickens etc Grass Seeds from field to garden Poultry houses, field shelters and stables, Gates, stakes, stockfence and fittings And much more!

Opening hours: Monday to Fri 8.00am to 5.00pm, Sat 8.00am to 4.00pm FARMERS MARKET – MONDAY TO SATURDAY AT OUR ASHBURTON BRANCH

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Ring for details or visit www.endsleighgardens.co.uk Open every day... WELL WORTH A VISIT

Milton Abbot, Tavistock PL19 0PG Tel: 01822 870235 From Milton Abbot follow brown signs to Endsleigh House & Gardens on B3362

Telephone: 01297 639277 Mobile: 07900 123075

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Nestled on the edge of the beautiful Taw Valley, Eggesford Garden Centre is just the place for a spot of relaxed shopping.

From fresh cut trees and decorations to gifts for the whole family, the well stocked shop has everything you need to make your Christmas sparkle.

Enjoy delicious home made food in The Gardens Restaurant.

Christmas lunches are served from 5th December - booking is essential.

See our website for details of seasonal events and menus.

Dogs and muddy boots are welcome.

EGGESFORD GARDEN CENTRE

Eggesford, Chulmleigh, Devon, EX18 7QU

Tel: 01769 580250

www.eggesfordgardens.com

Just off the A377 Exeter to Barnstaple road at Eggesford Station 5

TREE FIELDS TOURS AT ST BRIDGET NURSERIES Have you ever gone to buy a tree thinking it would be easy and then stood in front of the labels and been baffled by horticultural terms perhaps a little beyond what your parents taught you when growing up? Well luckily in Devon we have specialist tree nurseries and one is offering a tour of their tree fields this November in Exeter.

St Bridget Nurseries is a family run business that has been growing trees and shrubs since 1925. On Friday 10th, Saturday 11th and Sunday 12th of November, Tammy Falloon, whose great-grandparents founded the nursery, will be conducting the tours herself. The tour will start off by explaining how trees are produced commercially on the nursery explaining the process of grafting and the reasons why trees are produced this way. Visitors will see hundreds of ornamental and fruiting varieties at various stages of growth from one-year-old maidens to more

established three to fouryear old trees.

Tammy will also explain what rootstocks are and why you need to know what rootstock a tree is grafted onto before you buy it. The tour will end with an explanation of how fruit trees can be trained into different shapes and how you must ensure you have a cross pollinating variety to get a bountiful crop.

Family apple trees will also be discussed before the tour ends and you are free to wander and view the trees for yourself. As the tour takes place in an open ground field the surface is uneven and could be muddy and therefore the tour is not suitable to those with walking difficulties. The tours start from the Old Rydon Lane garden centre (EX2 7JY) at 10.30am on each of the three dates. The event is in aid of Children’s Hospice South West and tickets cost £2 per person and must be booked in advance.

For further details, visit www.stbridgetnurseries.co.uk/ events or call 01392 873672.

Could you open your garden for Devon Hospiscare?

Each year around 50 local people open their garden gates and invite people in to view their gardens, and all for raising funds for Devon Hospiscare, the local hospice charity. But more are always welcome and they are appealing for Devon gardeners to come forward and help the charity in 2017.

Gardens of all shapes and sizes are welcomed, and Hospiscare finds that group openings, where several garden owners band together to open on a particular day, are very popular with visitors.

Some gardeners serve refreshments, hold raffles or are on hand to answer questions, others simply allow visitors to stroll around and enjoy the experience. So if you would like to know more about opening your garden and the support you will receive from Hospiscare please call them on 01392 688020 or complete a form that’s on their website at www.hospiscare.co.uk and they will contact you very soon.

PRO TEC T ING DEVON’S TREES F OR THE F UTURE Devon Wildlife Trust is playing a key part in an initiative which is protecting the nation’s ‘tree heritage’.

The trust is collecting seed from a series of well-known local wild tree and shrub species including rowan, crab apple, raspberry, silver birch, honey suckle and elder. The collections are an important part of a national project to protect the UK’s trees. The charity is undertaking the work as a partner in the UK National Tree Seed Project, which has been set up by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank, with funding from players of People’s Postcode Lottery.

The seeds are being gathered by staff and volunteers at 49 nature reserves throughout the county. Tree seeds collected as part of the project will be safely banked in the underground vaults of Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank – forming the UK’s first national collection of tree seeds.

6

Devon Wildlife Trust staff pick crab apples at the charity’s Dunsford nature reserve

These can then play a vital role in conservation work to protect UK trees and woodlands, including against pests and diseases such as ash dieback. The collections, and associated data, will be available to researchers working on solutions to tackle the many threats facing our woodlands. www.devonwildlifetrust.org

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If you would like a last resting place in beautiful countryside overlooking Dartmoor.

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See the Winter Garden in a new light, with a dynamic light show. Simple family suppers available.

Buy tickets at rhs.org.uk/rosemoor RHS Registered Charity No. 222879/SC038262

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7

Good looking borders

all year round

Gill Heavens believes borders should be alive and vibrant for as long as possible and not just summer pleasures so she selects her favourite herbaceous perennials for borders for all year round beauty

Gertrude Jekyll believed that a border could only be truly effective for one season. “I believe that the only way in which it can be made successful is to devote certain borders to certain times of the year”.

Now far be it for me to disagree with this horticultural doyenne but I would perhaps say that things are little different for the 21st century gardener.

Space, time and practicalities are quite different to when this wonderful book was written over 100 years ago. We demand far more now from our gardens. We ask that they look good throughout the year. As we are creeping into winter it is worth considering

Heucherella ‘Sweet Tea’- sensational burnt orange leaves 8

how we can ensure that our beds and borders keep up the good work in the lean months.

Shrubs and trees are often the first port of call for the winter garden, but we should also consider herbaceous perennials. It is worth remembering that they do not all disappear beneath the soil to hibernate until spring.

Some tough it out on the surface.

We must however be careful. Remaining in leaf throughout the worst of the weather makes a plant vulnerable.

A good example of this is agapanthus. If you have any doubt, it is best to stick to deciduous varieties. Some are known as semi-evergreen, which basically means they will be at the party until the going gets too harsh.

The cranesbill Geranium x cantabrigiense is a compact plant with aromatic foliage. This is an ideal specimen for dry shade and the white form ‘St Ola’ is a light in the darkness.

Geranium subcaulescens 'Giuseppii' is a neat little chap, with grey green leaves and perfect dark-eyed, rich purple flowers, reaching only 10cm high. If you have a clement environment then the magnificent, but short-lived, Geranium maderense looks stunning with its tower of dissected foliage. However beware, if you do not have these conditions, or it is a particularly harsh winter, then it will end up look like a pile of over-cooked cabbage. I am guessing that this is not the look you are after!

Now let us get some colour into the equation.

At this point it would be remiss not to mention the heucheras, and the heucherellas, which sound rather like a 1960 girl band. Here you are spoilt for choice in both colour and leaf shape.

Many varieties are deliciously named from the chocolate coloured Heuchera ‘Brownie’, through ‘Lime Marmalade’ to ‘Peach Melba’ and ‘Cherry Cola’. The heucherallas include the stunning x Heucherella ‘Sweet Tea’ with its burnt orange and crimson palmate leaves and x Heucheralla ‘Berry Fizz’ with blackcurrant pink marbled leaves. Yum! The hellebores are also worth considering.

Eryngium yuccifolium which, as the name suggests, has spiky yucca-like leaves

Bergenia purpurascens 'Irish Crimson'

Geranium maderense a stunning variety but can be short lived

Geranium x cantabrigiense - a compact and aromatic lovely plant

Helleborus argutifolius, or the Corsican Hellebore

Helleborus argutifolius, the Corsican hellebore, is a sun loving Mediterranean plant and will get to 90cm in height.

The noticeably veined, saw-toothed leaves are shiny and substantial. Later these are a perfect foil to the pale green flowers which are produced at winter’s end. Helleborus 'Penny’s Pink' has exquisite blue-green foliage which is etched in buttercup yellow like a stained glass window.

Helleborus ‘Silver Dollar’ will add a metallic shine to your garden with purple stems and three lobed leaves.

For drama you need look no further than Eryngium yuccifolium which, as the name suggests, has spiky yuccalike leaves. This American native will send up a spike of flowers later in the year, reaching almost 2m in height.

Before then you can appreciate the architectural splendour of its leaves. If this isn’t dramatic enough for you, then try Eryngium pandanifolium which has 1.5m long spiny leaves and reaches 2.5m in height! It is recommended you stay at a safe distance.

The Bethlehem sage, Pulmonaria saccaharata, and its cultivars are some of the more reliably evergreen lungworts.

Good examples of these shade loving woodlanders include 'Dora Bielefeld' with pink flowers and lightly mottled green and silver leaves and the more densely marked 'Leopard' with soft red flowers.

Artemisia stelleriana 'Boughton Silver' has lobbed fuzzy-felt leaves and will form a low carpet of silver which will dazzle in the low winter sun. All this wormwood needs to keep it happy is a quick tidy up in spring and a sunny well drained position.

For evergreen strap-like leaves why not try the cream and green striped stinking iris, Iris foetidissima ‘Variegata’. The 80cm high leaves are striking, which is more than can be said for the under-stated dull purple flowers. They will

however further enhance your winter garden with bursting pods of bright orange seed.

There is nothing quite like a euphorbia. They come in many forms, colours and sizes. The bizarre Euphorbia rigida, or the gopher spurge, with its snake-like pale green stems is certainly a talking point. The dark and downy Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’, the purple woodspurge, will look wonderful next to grey or golden foliaged plants. Euphoria x martini ‘Ascot Rainbow’ is my champion, with leaves of gold, green and pink, as the weather gets colder, the pink gets stronger. Who needs flowers!

The bergenias or elephant ears are ideal for the winter garden as in many cases the foliage colour improves greatly as the season wears on. The bronze leaves of Bergenia ‘Eroica’ blush deeply with winter’s arrival. It is frost hardy and is not shy to flower, producing many deep pink flowers in the spring. Bergenia purpurascens 'Irish Crimson' also has fine cold weather colour, the large leathery leaves turning a magnificent deep red.

As an added bonus, all or any of these plants may reward you with a wayward bloom throughout the dark months.

It seems a little much to ask a border to be tip top all year, but we can make sure there is always something to tempt us outside in the colder months. So when you are next shopping for your perennial border, take note ….. is it a sleeper or a shiner?!

Bibliography: Colour Schemes for the Flower Garden preface by Richard Bisgrove – Gertrude Jekyll 1988 edition, first published 1908

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9

AWESOME ORCHIDS THIS WINTER? Orchids are among the most popular house plants given at Christmas time – here’s how you can keep one of these beautiful plants flowering year after year Orchids are among the top five houseplants for Christmas gifts. But how many wither and die in the New Year? With just a little knowhow and care they can keep on flowering for months at a time and come into flower again for years to come.

One of the most popular orchids is Phalaenopsis, the moth orchid, with its mass of flowers gracefully held up on a single stem, and dark glossy strap leaves below. The good thing is that they thrive in centrally heated rooms and they will continue to bear their flowers for months.

Good light levels are essential winter for these plants. They need bright light but don’t put them where there is direct sunlight. They will need a minimum temperature of 16°C (61° F), so make sure there is 16-19°C (61-66°F) temperature in the room at night and during the day Cymbidium or boat orchid, a genus of 52 it’s between 19-30°C evergreen species in the orchid family (66-86°F).

Water Phalaenopsis regularly throughout the growing season. Reduce watering slightly during the winter. Always keep the foliage dry, taking care not to splash the leaves when watering. Don’t let the roots dry out completely, but avoid allowing the plant to sit in water. Mist the plant lightly in summer.

Feeding can be done regularly in the growing 10

Country Gardener

season – almost every time you water – but plants do need the occasional 'flushing out'. So, apply proprietary liquid orchid fertiliser with three waterings, but use only plain water (with no fertiliser) every fourth watering to ensure that any potentially harmful accumulations of salts are leached from the compost. Feed sparingly during the winter months.

The orchid’s flowers last about three months (sometimes even longer) at any time of the year. Once the flowers have faded, cut the flowering stalk back to just above the second node (joint) visible beneath the spent flowers.

If a plant is large and healthy but does not produce flowers in a reasonable time, then reduce the temperature by 5°C (8°F) for four weeks, and a flower spike will usually develop.

Many new hybrids are introduced every year, but most Phalaenopsis offered for sale are unnamed hybrids. Only specialist orchid growers will offer named species and hybrids. If you want to expand your orchid growing then try Phalaenopsis schilleriana which have deep rose pink-flushed white flowers up to 8cm (3in) across, with silver-mottled dark green leaves, P. equestris with clusters of 10-15 small pink flowers, each 2.5cm (1in) across, with fresh green leaves, or P. cornu-cervi that has spidery yellow flowers spotted with dark red, each 2.53.5cm (1-1.5in) across, in clusters of about 12 blooms that open successively.

Cymbidium orchids If you can provide lower temperatures choose a Cymbidium, again one of the most popular orchids sold as house plants and generally

White Phalaenopsis orchid

undemanding as long as the temperature is right. Provide winter growing temperatures between 10-14°C (50-57°F).

Cymbidium needs moderate watering during spring and summer, depending on the conditions. Water from above, making sure that excess water can drain away, not allowing the plant to sit in water. Let the compost dry out a little before the next watering.

Plants placed outdoors or in the greenhouse may need more frequent watering in hot weather. Outdoor plants may only need occasional watering if the weather is wet. Reduce watering to weekly or fortnightly in winter.

Apply half-strength general liquid fertiliser every third watering in spring and switch to a high potassium specialist orchid fertiliser in summer. Stop feeding altogether, or feed only occasionally in winter, using half-strength general liquid fertiliser.

Flower spikes start growing in mid to late summer, when the plants need good light and a distinct drop between day and night temperatures. If you have put the plant outside it will actually help the process.

To prevent bud-drop, keep the temperature below 15°C (59°F) during flower spike development. Wait until the flowers have opened before moving the plant into a warmer spot.

Support developing flower spikes with a bamboo cane.

Flowers generally last for six to eight weeks. Once the blooms have faded, cut down the flowered stem to the base.

and generally check on how the plant is doing, and orchids are plants that grow on trees not in the ground so like some extra light. Get one that’s just a size up as too large a pot will make the compost dry out too slowly after watering, resulting in root rot. Choose a proprietary bark-based orchid compost, never a loam-based or standard multipurpose compost that would kill your orchid.

When repotting moth orchids which are monopodial (nonclump forming) orchids, if the remaining roots comfortably fit the old pot after removing the old compost and any dead roots, then it’s best to reuse it, otherwise repot in a slightly larger pot that gives just enough space round the plant.

Sterilise your scissors or secateurs and taking the plant out of the old pot, gently separate the roots and snip off any that look brown, shrivelled or hollow. Shorten the remaining healthy roots back to around 12cm (5in).

Hold the plant at the correct level in the pot and fill in the spaces around the roots with fresh compost, gently firming in. Loose compost will cause the plant to be unstable and damage the new root tips, stopping them from growing. Do not try to bury the aerial roots in the compost, as they may rot. Phalaenopsis can be repotted at any time of year.

Cymbidiums are sympodial (clump forming) and spread by producing pseudobulbs - swollen, above-ground structures where the leaves grow from, and are generally cylindrical or conical in shape, helping the plant to store water and nutrients. So when a pot is filled with these bulbs, you can split them apart to make more plants.

Problems Orchids can suffer from aphid, scale insect, whitefly, red spider mite and mealybug attack. If kept outdoors during the summer, protect them from slug and snail damage.

The plants can be affected by various viruses. The symptoms include pale green to yellow spots, streaks or patterns of brown, black rings and other patterns of discolouration.

There is no cure and affected plants should be destroyed.

Asking what types of orchids there are is like asking what types of people there are- tall and short, introverts and extroverts, people with different skin colours, and people from different parts of the world. Likewise, you will find many types of orchids—different colours, species and hybrids, miniature and standard-sized, all different genera from different parts of the world. The main types you are likely to buy are:

Moth Orchids The most common type is the moth orchid, or the Phalaenopsis orchids.

Dendrobium Orchids A huge genus of orchids containing about 1,200 species.

Give your orchid more space in a bigger pot

Slipper Orchids

Eventually your orchid might grow too big for its pot and repotting should be done anyway every two years as the compost will be spent. It’s quite easy to repot orchids but you need to take a little care.

First of all, if the plant needs to be in a larger pot it’s best to be in a clear plastic pot. That way you can see the roots

So called because because of their appearance with pouch-shaped lips.

Boat Orchids The boat orchid, Cymbidium- popular plants because of the big, showy and long-lasting flowers.

11

Autumn

the perfect time to buy and plant trees and shrubs At this time of the year trees and shrubs divert their energy to the underground root system and rapid root growth is under way - the most rapid of the year - so it’s the perfect time to get planting Why is autumn the best time of the entire year to buy and plant trees and shrubs?

Any experienced gardener will tell you that autumn is nature’s time for planting. The soil is warm and moist; newly planted trees and shrubs have got all winter to get their roots out into the ground, to establish before they have to cope with supporting flowers and leaves next summer. And the chances are if you plant now you will have less aftercare to worry about next season.

So the next few weeks are the perfect time to get out visiting specialist nurseries, planning new trees shrubs and hedges and importantly taking advantage of the expert help and advice available from the people who have been growing the shrubs and trees.

Trees that are field-grown and lifted just before despatch have a more generous and balanced root system as they have never been pressed for space. The roots are usually trimmed after lifting to make a manageable bundle, but even so, you end up with a healthier-looking root run.

Then don’t waste any time in getting your purchases in the ground. There will never be a better time in the gardening calendar.

You will find that preparing the soil is easier at this time of year. Digging is a pleasure in autumn and after some rainfall it’s not as arduous. Even those gardening on heavy clay will agree that it’s better to cultivate now, rather than when that clay soil is heavy and soggy in early spring.

Ground preparation is the key to successful planting. Fork in plenty of good garden compost or a shrub and tree planting compost.

Whatever you are planting, always water it thoroughly before you take it out of its pot. Dig a hole that’s deep enough and wide enough to accommodate the rootball with plenty of space all around it.

Add a slow release general fertiliser to the soil as you backfill.

12

One popular choice for a deciduous hedge is beech (Fagus sylvatica)

Firm the soil around the roots and water your new plant thoroughly. If you get your levels right leaving a shallow saucer shaped depression around the plant, it really helps to direct rainfall into the roots.

Planting tips, old and new The idea that it's necessary to dig a deep planting hole to encourage roots to go deep is a fallacy. Most shrub roots spread widely rather than deeply. So dig a hole much wider than the roots of the shrub you're planting, and mix some soil improver with the soil from the hole and use this to re-fill.

A square hole is better than a round one. Sounds crazy but, when digging the hole, especially in heavy soils, the sides tend to become a little glazed, with a smooth vertical surface that roots find difficult to penetrate. So the roots tend to grow in a circle round the circumference of the hole. But, when they reach the corners of a square hole, the roots find it easier to break through.

Planting new hedges When it comes to choosing hedges, there's lots of choice.

Decide whether you want evergreen or deciduous hedging and always consider maintenance. The best hedges only need a once-a-year trim and slowergrowing hedges make If you want an evergreen hedge, better barriers. yew is the best maintenance-

friendly hedge The two obvious choices for a deciduous hedge are beech (Fagus sylvatica) and hornbeam (Carpinus betulus). Both form attractive green backdrops

Country Gardener

and they look very similar. But hornbeam comes into leaf earlier and provides a green backdrop by late April.

If you want an evergreen hedge, yew is the best maintenance-friendly hedge. But gardeners imagine that it will take a hundred years to grow. They're confused by the fact that churchyards often contain trees that are centuries old. But yew isn't that slow! No one can pretend that yew is a very fast growing hedge (like those dreadful Lleylandii hedges) but given ten to 15 years, yew will form a five-foot high hedge.

Holly as hedging Holly can make an excellent evergreen hedge too but it's much slower than yew. It's a 20 year project at least.

You could either use the prickly burglar-proof native Ilex aquifolium or the rounder-leaved, kinder hybrid Ilex x altaclerensis.

If you are planting bare-rooted stock they will need to be planted as soon a possible to prevent the roots drying out, otherwise you will need to heel them in until the site is prepared.

Incorporating well-rotted organic matter will also help correct most problem areas when you are ready to plant your hedge. When added to heavy soils, it helps open them and improve drainage, while same organic matter added to sandy free draining soils enables them to retain more moisture. It also improves soil fertility and helps correct extremes in acidity or alkalinity.

And don’t forget to prune Shrubs and hedges create the structure in a garden so it's important to keep them in good condition with regular pruning. This will improve a plant's shape and encourage flowers and fruits.

Early pruning of young shrubs helps establish a shapely shrub with vigorous, balanced growth.

Most evergreen shrubs do not need thinning or formative pruning. However all shrubs benefit from shortening any excessively long shoots and cutting out weak or damaged growth.

Deciduous shrubs are more likely to need pruning into shape; this is known as formative pruning. Young shrubs often grow lots of shoots so you will have to thin them early on.

Thornhayes

n

Shrubs such as forsythia and buddleja can soon accumulate masses of old, dead wood in the centre if they are not pruned regularly.

The best way to rejuvenate these plants is to cut them back over the next few weeks.

Here’s just some of the specialist nurseries offering varieties of plants, trees and expert advice:

Thornhayes- the one -stop shop for advice and quality plants With 40 years experience in the horticultural industry and 25 years running the nursery, Thornhayes owner Kevin Croucher, is well equipped to advise on the choice of trees, hedging, shrubs and fruit trees to suit individual requirements. The nursery’s staff pride themselves on providing a quality product, backed up by sound regional growing knowledge. “Once a customer comes here and sees the quality of our stock, they come back again and recommend us to their friends. We provide the complete ‘old fashioned' service." If you want to plant one tree, an orchard, or an avenue, visit Thornhayes Nursery.

Thornhayes Nursery, St Andrews Wood, Dulford, Cullompton, Devon, EX15 2DF. Tel: 01884 266746. www.trees@thornhayes-nursery.co.uk

Adams Apples able to advise on orchards big and small Adams Apples, established in 1992, are specialist growers of apple trees, and most other fruit trees and bushes. With over 150 varieties of traditional and modern varieties advice can be given on orchards large and small. Typically the nursery has supplied cider growers, juice makers, community orchards, smallholders, nurseries, schools, and of course gardeners, all over the U.K. and most of the European Union. Staff can advise on planning and planting, pruning and aftercare, their commitment is to create productive orchards and fruit gardens. Visit the nursery to discuss things but please make an appointment.

Talaton Plants, Egremont Barn, Payhembury, Honiton, Devon, EX14 3JA. Telephone 01404 841166 or sales@adamsappletrees.co.uk or visit www.adamsappletrees.co.uk

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Thornhayes Nursery, Dulford, Open 8am-4pm Mon to Fri also 9am-1pm Sat Cullompton, Devon EX15 2DF Tel: 01884 266746 www.thornhayes-nursery.co.uk

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13

Perrie Hale – friendly advice for any size planting scheme

Holly can make an excellent evergreen hedge too but you’ll need to be more patient as it is much slower growing than yew

Perrie Hale Nursery is a Devon based family business established in 1957. At their nursery you will find a wide variety of high quality UK grown native and evergreen trees, hedging, shrubs and soft fruits. Perrie Hale Nursery offers friendly advice whether your planting scheme is large or small. November to March is the ideal planting time so if you need to plant a hedge, screen a building, create a windbreak or maybe plant a woodland copse for wildlife, timber or wood-fuel, give Perrie Hale a call or go to the website for more information and to order your plants online.

Perrie Hale Nursery, Northcote Hill, Honiton, Devon, EX14 9TH. Tel: 01404 43344 Email: faye@perriehale.co.uk www.perriehale.co.uk

Dulford Nursery – family business catering for all needs A square hole is better than a round one especially in heavy soils, the sides tend to become a little glazed, with a smooth vertical surface that roots find difficult to penetrate

Autumn planting of rhododendrons and azaleas Autumn planting is traditionally the best time to prepare the ground and plant rhododendrons and azaleas. At this time of the year the heat from the sun is not so intense and moisture levels hold well in the soil which will give the plants time to put out new roots and as the ground is still warm it will give the plants a better chance of performing in the spring. The best way to prepare the ground is to dig over the area with a fork breaking up any compacted lumps.

Add pine bark and ericaceous compost and dig this in well mixing to the surrounding area. Dig the hole wider and no deeper than the root ball. Mix in extra ericaceous compost to your soil as you back fill the hole making sure not to compact the soil around the root ball and that the top of the root ball is not buried under the soil level and water in well. Rhododendrons and azaleas prefer a well drained, moist and acidic site.

Koirin, The Rhododendron & Azalea Centre, Woodlands, Nr Verwood, Verwood Road, Wimborne, BH21 8LN. Tel: 01202 824629 Email: enquiries@azaleacentre.co.uk

Dulford Nurseries is a long established family business offering the widest range of trees and shrubs in the south west. From small native hedging plants to rare and large specimen trees, plus over 500 different shrubs.

The nursery covers 15 acres planted up with native and ornamental trees and shrubs. There is also a wide range of containerised specimens for summer planting. Dulford have many years experience in the planting of trees and can plant anything from hedging and forestry THE RHODODENDRON whips to large trees and & AZALEA CENTRE shrubs. They are happy to quote on the planting Visitors Welcome Mon-Fri of single trees or large 9.00am-4.30pm all year round landscaping projects.

Sat 10.00am-4.00pm Apr-May Dulford deliver with their 25% OFF ALL own transport, but can SPECIMEN PLANTS dispatch smaller orders by Koirin, Crossroads Nursery, Woodlands, national carrier.

Dulford Nurseries, Cullompton, Devon, EX15 2BY. Tel: 01884 266361

Tel: 01202 824629

enquiries@azaleacentre.co.uk www.azaleacentre.co.uk Sorry, we don’t accept credit/debit cards

DULFORD NURSERIES

Northcote Hill, Honiton, Devon, EX14 9TH Tel: 01404 43344

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14

Country Gardener

Fancier cuppa?

Fresh picked herbs make delicious and refreshing home made drinks. Anne Patterson shares her tea drinking pleasures Once I began blending and testing herb teas for myself I knew what I didn't want.

I didn’t want anything which was bland or dull.

I was looking for something which had some real zing about it. Something which made me feel I wanted to go on making my own home made herb teas.

Herb tea should never be flat and flavourless. Whether it's fruity or spicy, soothing or lively, simple or sophisticated, it needs taste and personality.

The mint, lemon balm and chamomile I grow outside my Dorset kitchen are more flavourful than any of the dry herbal ingredients I could buy. I also learned that rose petals and toasted sunflower hulls are still delightful if unusual additions. And for simple pleasures, few things equal the fragrance and flavour of a few fresh leaves of lemon verbena steeped in boiling water.

Here are my picks for the best herb home made teas.

BORAGE a cucumber like flavour, good for colds and flu.

THYME is excellent for hangovers and colds, soothing for stomach pains, use the tender tips of the plant and use it sparingly. This is great if mixed with rosemary or sage.

CATNIP is a two- to three-foot-tall mint-family member.

The scalloped leaves have a lemon-mint flavour. If you have cats, you know they roll in it. Pregnant women should avoid drinking catnip tea.

CHAMOMILE bears small, daisy-like flowers that have long been used for tea. I harvest the mature flowers of both chamomiles for a light, apple-scented tea.

CORIANDER produces seeds that lend a warm, citrusy flavour to tea. The leaves, used in cooking, are known as cilantro or Chinese parsley. This fast-growing half-hardy annual prefers cool weather.

FENNEL is a three- to five-foot perennial often cultivated as an annual. In cold climates, you can succession-plant through the early spring and summer, and it will often self-sow.

Fennel likes full sun. Both the feathery leaves and the seeds are used for teas.

LEMON BALM is our family favourite. This floppy two-foot-

tall member of the mint family has scalloped, lemon-scented leaves that make a soothing evening tea and add body to blends as well.

LEMON VERBENA is, among all the plants with ‘lemon’ in their names, the most like oil of lemon, hence the most strongly flavoured.

MINT comes in many varieties, all of which have been used as teas. In my opinion, peppermint leaves (M. x piperita) are the only ones that stand up to drying and steeping, making a wonderfully refreshing iced tea. Like any mint, peppermint can be invasive.

ROSES can be used to make two kinds of tea, those from the hips (fruit) and those from the petals. You can use the petals of any fragrant variety that's been grown organically.

Rosa rugosa is one that's recommended for both petals and hips because it's a fragrant, pest-free rose that doesn't require spraying. Rose hip tea is red, with a tart lemon-orange flavour, and is a source of vitamin C. Cut slits in plump hips to speed drying and crush them slightly before brewing the tea.

Harvesting Aromatic oils are most concentrated when herb plants are in bud, so that's a good time to harvest, although you can certainly take cuttings here and there during the growing season. Cut back the entire plant by two thirds. In my area, I get about three cuttings before letting the plants go.

The plants I have listed here can all be used fresh for tea, or they can be dried first. To dry them, I spread the stems on trays in a warm, airy place and turn them twice a day. When they're dry (four to eight days), I gently strip off the leaves, buds or flowerheads and store them in closed containers.

I cut stalk fennel and coriander when the seeds are barely mature, but before they shatter, and invert them in paper sacks. In a few weeks, when the seeds have dropped to the bottom and dried, I funnel them into storage containers.

Herbal teas made from fresh herbs offer a caffeine-free, tasty and refreshing alternative. And you can be quite sure no chemicals have been used in processing them.

www.countrygardener.co.uk

15

Time for some adventure

with your spring bulbs

Now’s the time for planning and planting spring bulbs and the opportunity to bring some new razzmatazz and glamour into your garden Spring bulbs come in such a range of colours, shapes and sizes that its not difficult to let your imagination fly a bit more by going for a touch more glamour for next spring.

The planting season for spring bulbs should be at its peak now. October is the best time for daffodils; November for tulips.

The choices are mouth watering .Irises, multi coloured parrot tulips. fritallias, apricot daffodils, alliums, liliums and crocuses galore.

All it takes is a bit of colour planning, identifying what should go where as some bulbs prefer damp conditions, others need the full sun and some thrive in the shade.

For sheer flower-power, bulbs are the cheapest plants available, so don't stint on the quantities you plant. Even in small gardens, massed plantings of a limited number of varieties is always most effective.

Buy them big and firm When buying bulbs, reject any that are soft or showing signs of mould. Small bulbs may not flower in their first year. Most bulbs have a long dormant period, requiring little attention for much of the year. When buying bulbs check they're healthy and as fresh as possible, or your spring show could be a washout.

Avoid any that are damaged, shrivelled or feel soft, and go for plump, firm bulbs. Aim to plant within a week or they’ll start to sprout. When possible, check that the plants have been obtained from reliable growers, rather than from stock that has been collected from the wild.

Don’t be afraid to dig deep.

The rule of thumb for planting spring bulbs is to plant two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. This means most large bulbs like tulips or daffodils will be planted about eight inches deep while smaller bulbs will be planted three inches deep.

Planting depth is measured from the bottom of the bulb.

16

If you are not sure, plant the bulb on its side: its stem will find its own way up.

Remember bulbs love hedges The dry conditions at the base of hedges make ideal growing conditions for many bulbs. Tulips, and particularly species tulips, will be very happy on the south-facing side of a hedge, and can be left undisturbed for years.

On the shady side of the hedge, encourage carpets of Anemone blanda or the mauve and lavender flowers of Chionodoxa forbesii, a prolific self-seeder.

Moist soil lovers Most bulbs need a period of dry conditions, but some only thrive in moist soils. In the wild, camassias grow in rich, moist meadows and need similar conditions in the garden.

Leucojums also flower better in moist soils. The snakeshead fritillary, F. meleagris, only flourishes when grown in a damp soil. You can plant bulbs just about anywhere in your garden as long as the soil drains well. The Dutch say, ‘bulbs don't like wet feet.’ So, avoid areas where water collects, such as the bottom of hills. Bulbs like sun and in many areas the spring garden can be very sunny, since the leaves on the trees are not out yet. So keep in mind when planting that you can plant in many places for spring blooms.

Beware the squirrels The biggest destroyer of bulbs, particularly in urban gardens, is the squirrel. Although they dig up daffodils they don't eat them. But they have a voracious appetite for crocus and tulips. Planting the bulbs deeper than normal can help.

Bulbs are most vulnerable after planting, when the soil is easy for squirrels to dig. Chicken-wire placed over the pot, or the freshly dug soil, will deter them.

Bulbs which love the shade Not all bulbs need full sun. As well as woodland bulbs such as the dog's tooth violet (Erythronium dens-canis),

Country Gardener

and the wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa), many Mediterranean bulbs grow well in shade. Scilla peruviana has blue flowers the size of tennis balls and soon forms large colonies in cool, shady situations. Its relatives, the squills - Scilla siberica and S. bifolia - are aggressive plants that seed themselves everywhere, but the pools of blue they form are irresistible on dull spring days. The star-shaped flowers of Ipheion uniflorum create a similar effect but are less invasive.

If you have rich soil with plenty of added leafmould you will be able to grow the sumptuous black flowers of Fritillaria camschatcensis. The most majestic bulb for the dappled shade provided by deciduous trees is F. imperialis. A friend has masses of the deep orange form growing against a redbrick wall underneath a fig tree. It's a glorious sight. Many spring-flowering bulbs are ideal for brightening up the base of trees before they come into full leaf. The soil beneath trees is moist and light, offering the perfect growing conditions for scillas, anemones, erythroniums and crocuses.

Anemone nemorosa

Fritillaria camschatcensis

How to go for spring glamour next year

flowered tulips. The cup-shaped blooms hold well in a vase, making them ideal for cutting. Most are in the scarlet-orange to red range, but pink, yellow, and white varieties are also available.

‘Pink Impression’ makes the best pink.

For a flame-colored Darwin hybrid, try ‘Beauty of Apeldoorn.’ ‘Daydream’ opens yellow and matures to orange. They tend to perennialize better than most tulips if they get enough winter chill.

‘Professor Blaauw’ iris

Dutch iris Growing two feet tall from rushlike foliage, Dutch irises are marked by clear, intense colours such as deep blue, purple, and orange, usually with a yellow blotch.

For blue, try ‘Professor Blaauw’; for magenta purple, ‘Purple Sensation’ for yellow, ‘Royal Yellow’. Mass irises among low ornamental grasses for a meadow effect. Or mix them in pots with yellow violas.

Tuilip ‘Pink Impression’

Darwin hybrid tulips Darwin hybrids are the tallest, largest-

Tuilip 'Estella Rijnveld'

Parrot tulip Like parrots, these tulips come in brilliant hues, some are striped and flamed in various colours; petals have ruffled or feathery edges.

‘Blue Parrot’ has mauve-blue flowers on 18-inch stems. ‘Estella Rijnveld’ is even more flamboyant, with redand-white flowers on 20-inch stems.

For red splashed with green, try the 20-inch-tall ‘Rococo’.

How to display: Plant bulbs shoulder to shoulder in a 16- or 18-inch-diameter pot, or in drifts behind white or purple violas. Before planting in mild-winter climates, chill the bulbs for six weeks. www.countrygardener.co.uk

Narcissus 'Apricot Whirl'

Apricot daffodils Naturally yellow or white, daffodils sometimes come with a salmon, apricot, or coral corona (the cup in the center of the flower). They stand up to cold and are easy to grow.

Narcissus ‘Apricot Whirl ‘has a divided, apricot-colored corona framed against a white perianth (outer petals) on 14-inch stems. For a salmon trumpet against yellow outer petals, try the 18inch ‘Lorikeet’.

Pretty when massed in pots or combined with violas in antique shades of apricot and blue.

Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’

Pulmonaria ‘Blue Ensign’ Strong good flowering forms with interesting leaves and lots of dramatic colour.

17

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have plenty of good, loose soil to explore.

Rhubarb is usually bought as one-yearold plants, or crowns, which come from healthy, disease-free stock. The best time to plant these crowns is from November onwards as long as the ground is workable and isn’t frozen solid.

Once it is established, there really isn’t much to do to keep rhubarb going strongly, so long as the annual mulch and summer feeds are provided.

In spring, plants will send out flower shoots which need to be cut away at the base as soon as they are spotted – allowing plants to put energy into flowering will weaken the crown and reduce yields. Also remove any yellowing or dead leaves to ensure enough air can circulate around the plants, and to reduce both the likelihood of disease build-up and the number of potential hiding places for slugs. Cut away old leaves at the end of the growing season once the top growth has died back.

Clumps of rhubarb should remain highly productive over many years but as they expand the centres will become less so and the outside stems will get overcrowded and drawn. Keep plants performing well by Few crops are as carefree as rhubarb – a perennial that will provide loyal lifting and dividing them every five years. service year after year. Hailing from Siberia with harsh conditions and To get an earlier crop, you can force extreme temperatures it has an easier time in British gardens and allotments stems. To do this, cover the crown with a traditional forcing jar, bucket or upturned pot in late winter, ensuring that all light is blocked out. Cover Autumn and it's time to think about rhubarb.

It’s the ideal time to plant rhubarb crowns from now until the drainage holes in pots with a brick or stones. When stems reach the top of the container, they are ready for harvesting. end of December when they are dormant.

Forced stems are lighter-coloured and more tender than Clumps of rhubarb almost seem to take care of themselves, those grown in the open, and are generally ready three weeks lying forgotten in the corner of a plot yet continuing to earlier. provide tasty stems year after year to add a gentle tartness HARVESTING to puddings and crumbles. But with very minimal effort they can offer even more, providing the first crop of the new Do not harvest during the first year after planting as this will year and having it be of the sweetest, most tender stems – a reduce vigour. Remove a few stems the next year, then up to million miles away from what was contained in the eyea third or half from then on, leaving some to keep the plant watering school puddings so many remember. in active growth. To remove, hold the stalk at the base and ease it out of the ground, aiming to avoid snapping it off.

This, combined with the attractiveness of its bright pink- or red flushed stems, means that it is a plant virtually every kitchen gardener should consider growing.

The best varieties to grow The two main considerations you should have in mind when ‘Victoria’ - best looking preparing the ground for rhubarb are its ultimate size and the A well-established late variety with a deep raspberry red length of time it can be expected to occupy the space. It will at the base becoming greener towards the leaf. keep on producing succulent stems for at least 12 years and with regular lifting and dividing – like any other perennial 'Valentine’ for good taste and looks plant – a clump can occupy the same ground almost The last time Which? Gardening looked at rhubarb this indefinitely. Don’t think you can squeeze a plant into a tight variety was recommended. It is still worth seeking out. space when realistically the stems and leaves will grow out ‘Timperley Early’ - best for forcing 60cm from the centre of the plant in every direction.

This is one of the earliest varieties and a good choice for Choose a sunny or partially-shaded spot, preferably in a forcing if you want tender rhubarb in March and April. separate bed away from other veg (rhubarb is a vegetable, 'Livingstone’ an autumn cropper sold as an autumnit’s just usually eaten as you would a fruit), as the generous cropping rhubarb as it doesn’t stop producing new leaves can overshadow other plants while providing a shoots in summer. It's ready to harvest from September convenient hiding place for slugs and snails. onwards.

Thoroughly work over the soil at least a month before planting. Dig down two spade’s depths so that the roots will

Time to think about RHUBARB

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19

Get creative for gardening themed Christmas presents When it comes to gifts with a gardening theme there’s a real opportunity to be really creative There’s nothing wrong at all with a gorgeous favourite plant or maybe the latest in the great selection of garden books this year but this Christmas perhaps its time to be a bit more creative.

There’s no shortage of options when it comes to a bit of lateral thinking Increasingly popular are garden centre gift token (in units of £10 so they can be spent bit by bit) that you can buy over the counter or online at thevouchergarden.co.uk.

Many garden centres and nurseries have their own bespoke vouchers.

Gift tokens from specialist plant suppliers are another option with many well-known nurseries offering their own exclusive vouchers.

And then there are subscriptions to garden-related organisations and publications: a year's membership of the Cottage Garden Society or the Royal Horticultural Society, both of which include a regular magazine, make great gifts, as would a subscription to Which? Gardening, a respected magazine published by the Consumer Association and based on independent research. RHS Gift Vouchers make the perfect present for any occasion and can be used in RHS gift shops, plant centres, and mail order. www.rhs.org.uk/ shop/vouchers.

If you're still stuck for ideas then National Trust gift cards or vouchers make an ideal alternative to spend at over 2,000 sites and venues www.nationaltrust.org.uk/gift-cardsvouchers Another line of investigation could lead to an annual season ticket to a favourite garden. These include big names such as Beth Chatto Gardens in Essex and Great Dixter in East Sussex.

Finally, how about a token to cover just about everything at a top-notch horticultural establishments? Waterperry Gardens in Oxfordshire offers perhaps the ultimate gift idea: you can use its vouchers for entrance to its great garden, for plants or tools, in its gift shop or café, or as payment for one of its practical gardening courses.

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Here’s some specialist ideas for you to think about:

Christmas gift ideas from Vigo Press Vigo Press is not just for the apple season!

Vigo Presses have a broad range of gifts for your loved one this Christmas; If you can’t think what to buy, why not purchase a gift voucher for that all important equipment or sundry purchase.

Alternatively check out their gift Ideas section where you can find everything from grow your own ladybird kits to a range of books to brush up your knowledge of orchard management. There is something for everyone, young or old, and remember to make the most of your fruit.

See more at www.vigopresses.co.uk

Free bag offer on Backdoorshoes Backdoorshoes® are celebrating their 10th anniversary next year and to mark this milestone they are giving all the readers of Country Gardener a free poppy bag when spending over £25 online www.backdoorshoes.co.uk valid until 15th December 2016.

If you are looking for an essential gift for your family or friends then look no further.

They are lightweight, comfortable, waterproof and feature unique prints to brighten up any back or front door. Whether you choose Poppies, Meadow, Tulips, Sunflowers, Brogues or one of their other creations there will be something to suit everyone. Easy to slip on/off and nip outside.

Ladies size UK 3-8 £25 a pair and Men’s Chunky Tread UK 8-14 £30 a pair.

To view the full range please visit www.backdoorshoes.co.uk

Logs Direct – a heart warming solution Put a heart warming fire, with real wooden logs, at the centre of your 2016 festivities!

Logs Direct is a family based business established for many years supplying kiln dried logs, kindling, charcoal, smokeless fuels and firelighters.

With distribution throughout the UK they can ensure you keep warm this Christmas.

Country Gardener

Stunning decorative logs such as Silver Birch have come to the fore this season as an alternative to traditional tinsel. From creating a decorative log store to tied bundles of decorative birch logs, Logs Direct are happy to provide expert advice and produce bespoke designs to fit every space perfectly.

For more detail visit www.logsdirect.co.uk or call 01524 812476 to discuss your requirements.

Bee Smart this Christmas and choose the right gift!

For the perfect, memorable Christmas gift, guaranteed to be an excellent conversation starter, you can ‘Adopt a Beehive’ for a family member or friend. By selecting a beekeeper from one of ten different UK regions, the lucky receiver of this gift becomes an armchair beekeeper overnight.

An adoption lasts a year and includes an initial welcome pack full of bee goodies, including a jar of pure British honey, a pocket guide to the honey bee, a packet of wildflower seeds and much more! Throughout the year subscribers will receive copies of the seasonal newsletter ‘Hive Talk’ and updates from the beekeeper from their region.

It is a charitable scheme where all profits are directly applied to vital research and education to help save the honey bee.

Price is just £34.99, including post and packaging.

Available online from www.adoptabeehive.co.uk or by telephoning 0845 680 7038.

Free delivery UK mainland

®

®

Presses Pasteurisers Barrels & Bottles Orchard Care And much more Tel: 01404 890093 www.vigopresses.co.uk

Everyone needs a pair of Looking for the ideal Christmas Gift?

Working hard to keep you warm

•Kiln Dried Logs •Smokeless Fuel •House Coal •Kindling •Firelighters •Wood Pellets •Blazer Eco Logs +44 (0)1524 812476

www.logsdirect.co.uk

Try a pair of lightweight, waterproof, durable backdoorshoes®

Ideal for leaving by the back door when you need to nip outside or spend a day in the garden! With over 25 designs available there will be something for everyone on your list!

Ladies UK3-8 £25 and Mens Chunky Tread £30 UK8-14.

Visit us online for full range www.backdoorshoes.co.uk

ADOPT A BEEHIVE

A delightful way to support honey bees and learn more about the craft of beekeeping.

Choose to ‘adopt’ a beehive from one of ten regions across the UK and receive this ‘welcome’ box of bee related goodies, plus three seasonal updates a year from your beehive and beekeeper.

Help raise money for applied research and education projects to help save the honey bee.

“A present that is useful, desirable and capable of doing some good” THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH

To Adopt a Beehive visit adoptabeehive.co.uk | Facebook/Adoptabeehive | Call 0845 6807 038 Adopt a Beehive, sponsored by Burts Bees, is from The British Beekeepers’ Association (BBKA), registered charity no. 212025. All profits go towards applied research & education projects to help save the honey bee.

www.countrygardener.co.uk

21

JOBS IN THE

JOBS IN THE GARDEN

November garden

Planning and being positive – those are the key themes for this month.

Very soon now, as the leaves fall from the trees, it will be the planting season proper. It is a good five months that extends through the dormant period to the end of March.

And significantly it is the time to get planting - trees and shrubs, and in particular those that are deciduous.

Getting the majority in before Christmas is the ideal, as the roots will have time to settle in before spring.

There are of course other things to be getting on with.

Top of the heap If you have the room, create a separate leaf heap rather than simply adding leaves to compost, as leaf mould is a luxury soil improver if you are growing lilies in pots. The fibrous nature of leaf mould retains moisture and enables free drainage, which means it also makes a great mulch for woodland treasures such as trillium or wood anemone.

A leaf heap can easily be constructed using chicken wire and posts, or you can bag your leaves and put them in an out-of-the-way corner. Make sure you puncture the bags to prevent them from becoming anaerobic, as the bacteria that turn them to leaf mould need air to flourish. A leaf heap should take a year to rot down so empty now to make way for this year's leaf fall.

Remember only collect leaves where absolutely necessary.

Don't leave them too long on the lawns or they will kill the grass underneath. Where they have fallen in the beds and have not drifted too deeply, leave the earthworms to pull them into their burrows and to rot on the surface. This is not laziness but necessary to keep the cycle replenished. However, where leaves have drifted deeply or are smothering smaller plants or silver Mediterranean herbs and perennials, clear to keep the plants dry and airy.

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Perennials on the move In the colder parts of the country, first frosts will have blackened the dahlias. If you haven't done so already, move tender perennials into the shelter of a cool greenhouse, frame or garage and water less to bring on a state of semi-dormancy. In colder districts, tuberousrooted cannas and dahlias should be dug up and stored in just-damp compost in a cool, airy place. In warmer areas, an ample mulch of compost or leaf mould should protect them and they can stay put.

WHAT T O DO ABOUT SLIPP ERY PATHS One of the biggest concerns in the winter garden is slippery paths which can be hazardous and dangerous, especially during damp winters. There is no easy answer. Even when treated, if the wet conditions prevail, the problem will return.

There are some things you can do. Prune back overhanging branches to improve air movement and allow more sunshine to reach the surfaces.

Brush slippery paths regularly with a stiff broom. In particularly troublesome areas, consider installing drainage or replacing the hard surface with a permeable material like gravel.

Pressure washers are effective in removing moss and algae.

Consider buying or hiring one with a patio-cleaning accessory.

These give better results and reduce flying debris and water splashing.

Try using products based on benzalkonium chloride, pelargonic acid, acetic acid or nitrilo triacetic acid/trisodium salt; there are a wide range on the market and all claim to give control.

Avoid lawn moss killers containing ferrous sulphate such as lawn sands on hard surfaces as they may cause discolouration.

Country Gardener

CUT AND DRIED HARDWOOD CUTTINGS

Why it is the right time to plant bulbs The reason for planting bulbs in the autumn is based on common sense.

Every bulb sets off from below the earth out into the unknown with all the equipment, knowledge and sustenance it needs to grow, flower and set seed.

As long as there is light and good enough drainage so that the bulb does not rot, it can do this in almost any conditions.

Next year's bulbs are formed between flowering and the dying back of the foliage, so the bulb has roots to feed the leaves, which in turn photosynthesise and feed the bulb.

These roots and leaves need moisture, and many bulbs come from areas with baking, dry summers and cold winters.

The only moisture available to them is either from melting snow in spring or a brief rainy season in spring and autumn.

So they have evolved to do all their flowering and growing in spring, then to lie dormant in the hot, dry summer months, and then to start growing again, protected under the soil, at the end of summer.

By the time winter draws to a close, they are ready to make the most of the brief spring conditions.

Hence the rule about planting bulbs in the autumn, just as they are about to start their subterranean growing season.

The exceptions to this early planting are tulips, which should always be planted between Bonfire Night and Christmas to avoid tulip fire disease, and snowdrops and aconites, which are much better planted 'in the green' by lifting and dividing existing plants just after they have finished flowering, which in most cases will be early March.

Time to look after rhubarb

The time between now and the end of the year is ideal for taking hard-wood cuttings. As soon as the leaves have fallen, take cuttings at pencil length and pencil thickness.

Make a clean cut immediately below a bud and a sloping cut above to tell top from bottom.

Plunge to half their depth in compost or a trench in open ground if you don't have a frame. Vines, cornus, willow, buddleia and fig will be rooted by spring and ready for potting by mid-summer.

Winter pruning timetable

As soon as the leaves are down you can start to winter prune fruit.

Lift and divide rhubarb if it is lacking vigour and producing lots of thin stems. Split the crown with a spade into sections, each retaining a portion of the rhizome (thickened root) and at least one growing point. Retain and replant sections from the outer, younger part of the crown.

Be patient this autumn There’s always a danger of being over keen with an autumn clean up and remember a wealth of plants come into their own in the winter. Hydrangea heads, bleached-out ornamental grasses and the skeletons of certain perennials such as sedum and eryngium are not only of interest aesthetically but also provide cover and habitat for over-wintering insects. Leave as much as you can to rot back into the ground and then remove only what you really need to for the compost heap, and leave the best forms standing. www.countrygardener.co.uk

However, stone fruit should never be pruned in the winter as the sap is being drawn back into the trees and the airborne spores of silver leaf can be drawn back into the vascular system at the same time. Buddleia, clematis, wisteria and anything potentially tender should be left until the back end of winter to avoid die-back in hard frosts.

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The brilliance of

bare root roses

Bare root roses are an important part of Tammy Fallon’s life. She runs St. Bridget Nurseries in Exeter where 200 different varieties of roses are grown and she explains why bare root roses are better and how you can get the most from them It is an age old debate as to whether planting bare root roses is better than container grown ones. Container grown plants can be planted at any time of year, providing you give them suitable soil conditions, which is very convenient.

However, if you have a choice then I would always recommend buying bare root.

When I was a child I was always told, ‘autumn is when you plant’ and I couldn’t understand why anyone would prefer to plant in potentially wet and rainy conditions rather than the beautiful spring sunshine. However, with age I now understand why and I will share my thoughts with you.

Bare root roses aren’t particularly beautiful.

Many novice gardeners will worry that they’ve bought a mass of dead sticks and roots. Do not fear. The rose you buy will have been grown in an open ground field. Most roses are propagated from a process known as rose budding (a form of grafting) where a small leaf bud from the cultivated rose variety is grafted onto the base of a rose rootstock.

This process would have typically occurred 15 months ago in the summer before last. Then last January the rose would have been cut back to just above this graft and from that point all growth will be from that single leaf bud.

Over the months the shoot would have been pinched out to form a nice bushy plant that flowered in the summer just past. The rose would then have been trimmed and the shoots used as a source of new budwood for next year’s roses.

The plant is back to being a short mass of 24

Country Gardener

'Scent from Heaven' an exciting new rose for 2017

stems and is about to enter its dormant period of growth. This is when it is dug from the field and will either be sold as a bare root plant or potted and sold as a container one.

This ‘lifting’ process typically starts in late October and will continue until the end of March and this is the planting season for bare root roses.

The fact that the plant is dormant (not in active growth) is perfect, as it means it can be happily moved from one location to another with minimal stress. Equally if you plant in autumn, as my grandfather sweared by, then you will be benefiting from having warm soil that will encourage some new root growth before winter. The only exception to this is if you have a heavy soil and live in cold exposed areas with high rainfall, then I suggest you plant your bare root roses in March.

Another advantage of buying roses bare rooted is the cost. Quite simply there is no compost or pot needed and so the grower usually passes this saving on to you their customer.

Additionally, growers can send bare root roses in the post as they are not heavy and it is economical to do so.

For all roses (container or bare root) the secret to success is the soil. A rose will only grow as well as the soil allows and therefore picking the right spot first will bring dividends in the long run. You need to choose somewhere in your garden that gets plenty of summer sun with maybe slight shade in the afternoon. It needs to be a sheltered position and not an exposed low lying site. Roses like plenty of air to circulate round them, particularly bush and standard

roses which need a bit of space from nearby overhanging plants. Finally the soil: in an ideal world you need a medium loam, slightly acid.

Too much lime in your soil is harmful and you should never plant roses in a soil that has grown roses for ten years or more.

This is because there is a fairly unknown phenomenon called ‘rose sickness’ where newly planted roses suffer despite the fact that the old roses that were there thrived. Finally the soil should be free draining as very few plants like their roots to be in waterlogged soil. It sounds demanding but don’t be put off as roses are truly stunning and will reward you handsomely with perfume and colour next summer. If you are unsure what soil type you have, you can buy soil testing kits from good garden centres for very little money.

Once you have chosen the right site, prepare your soil by the old fashioned technique of double digging. Simply dig a trench about 45cm wide and a spade blade in depth. Put all the soil in a pile at the end.

Then get a fork and fork over the base of the trench to the full length of the prongs. Add some rose planting compost and a bit of well rotted manure as you go. Next dig out another 45cm wide trench next to the first and place the soil on top of the base of the first trench.

Fork the soil at the base of the second trench and once again add some organic material.

Finally replace the soil you placed on the end at the beginning and fork the entire area over to break down and loosen the soil. Your site is prepared.

When you receive your bare root roses, try to plant them as soon as possible. If this is not feasible, ‘heel-in’ the roots by digging a shallow V shaped trench and then spread the plants in a single row along it covering the roots and lower part of the stem with soil.

To plant permanently, plunge the bare roots into a bucket of water (ideally harvested rainwater) for about two to four hours and cut back any damaged or very long roots to about 30cm in length. Your grower should provide your rose in perfect condition for planting but check it over and cut off any leaves, hips of buds and any thin or decayed shoots.

Once you remove the plant from the bucket of water I suggest you sprinkle some mycorrhizal fungus on the roots. This helps your rose to increase its uptake of soil based nutrients and water and is proven to give a bigger healthier plant.

In your square double digged soil area, dig out a circle about 60cm by one spade blade depth.

Make a small mound of planting mixture at

the base of the circle (mix a bit of your soil with matching parts of rose compost and bone meal). Build the mound up so that when you place the rose roots on top it ensures the rose graft union is just above soil level.

Back fill the hole gently with the removed soil and some of the planting mixture. If you are planting a whole bed of roses you will need to leave about 45cm between compact varieties, 60cm for most hybrid teas and floribundas and about a metre for tall varieties. Climbers should be two to three metres apart. Each year, rose breeders produce new varieties and so take a look around to find some exciting new introductions. The rose of the year for 2017 is going to be ‘Scent From Heaven’.

This is a climbing rose with a powerful perfume that starts to flower in early summer with pointed buds opening into apricot-orange blooms that continue to flower until early autumn.

It is hailed as extremely disease resistant against fungal diseases so for me, it’s a fuss free winner!

St Bridget Nurseries: Nursery, head office & garden centre: Old Rydon Lane, Exeter, Devon, EX2 7JY. Tel: 01392 873672 Garden & Aquatic Centre: Sidmouth Road, Clyst St Mary, Exeter, EX5 1AE. Tel: 01392 876281

Tammy’s top tips • For all roses (container or bare root) the secret to success is the soil.

• When you receive your bare root roses, try to plant them as soon as possible.

• Too much lime in your soil is harmful.

• Never plant roses in a soil that has grown roses for ten years or more.

A healthy bare root rose with soft, green bark on the stem

www.countrygardener.co.uk

25

Wildlife and how

your garden is needed from now on Your gardening year may be coming to an end but for wildlife it's the time they need your help the most, as surviving the winter starts in earnest If you think you are coming to the end of things in the garden this year, spare a thought for our wildlife.

Our birds, butterflies, bees and other animals breed and hibernate at particular times, according to the availability of food and habitat.

They need what your garden has to offer whether it's you being generous and providing them with quality bird food, or making sure your garden is left to grow a bit wild to offer them feeding options.

them nuts such as hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds, plus some chopped apple, beans, carrots or spinach.

For badgers: Badgers have a tough time finding their favourite food - earthworms - when the ground is frozen.

Provide them with lightly cooked meats, cheese, peanuts and fruit.

Do not leave out large quantities of food each evening to avoid your guests becoming dependent on handouts.

LET YOUR GARDEN GO WILD

Pet food specialists G J W Titmuss offer a wide range of high quality bird food including sunflower hearts, wild bird seed mixtures, peanuts, fat balls, meal worms and niger seeds. Plus a massive variety of wild bird feeders and nest boxes all at very reasonable prices. Black sunflower and sunflower hearts are hugely popular. Black sunflower is usually much cheaper and each seed is covered with a very thin black husk which is relatively easy for birds to split open. The downside is that the outer husk is often left behind in your bird feeder. The other option is to purchase sunflower hearts instead.. G J W Titmuss work hard to source the best quality seed and whichever product you choose, you can be confident that you are buying high quality and clean seed. The G J W Titmuss family company have been supplying high quality products and caring for its customers for over 100 years.

For more information call 01582 839114 or visit www.gjwtitmuss.co.uk

Leave undisturbed wild areas in your garden – piles of leaves or brushwood can make the perfect nest in which animals can hide, rest and hibernate.

By leaving the task of tidying your garden borders and shrubs until early spring, shelter can be provided for insects throughout winter.

If you have a compost heap, this will become a welcome habitat for toads, and even grass snakes and slow-worms.

FEED THE BIRDS Birds may find it difficult to find natural foods such as berries, insects, seeds, worms and fruit during this cold season. Therefore, any extra food you can put out will help.

Provide a range of seeds, fresh unsalted peanuts and table scraps (cheese and fruits such as apples and pears). Garden birds also love dried mealworms or waxworm.

PROVIDE FRESH WATER

SPECIALIST QUALITY BIRD FOOD AT LOW PRICES

Clean water and food will encourage visiting hedgehogs to return regularly to your garden. Minced meat, fresh liver, tinned dog food (not fish based), or even scrambled eggs appeal to these prickly creatures.

Be aware - hedgehogs like milk but it may cause severe diarrhoea in youngsters. It is best to provide fresh water each night in a shallow bowl.

POSSIBLY THE CHEAPEST WILD BIRD FOOD IN THE UK

SUNFLOWER HEARTS 30KG ONLY ÂŁ29.98

ATTRACT GARDEN VISITORS When food is scarce, putting out a small amount of an appropriate treat will help to see the mammals visiting your garden through the winter.

For foxes: Put out cheese, boiled potatoes, chicken carcasses, bread and fat scraps at dusk.

For squirrels: Squirrels do not hibernate, instead they cache food during autumn to eat when food is scarce. Offer 26

DELIVERED MAINLAND UK 01582 839114 gjwtitmuss.co.uk

Country Gardener

SPECIALIST TREES

Small and often is the recipe when it comes to 'saving' the planet

HOW GREEN IS MY TREE? Mark Hinsley argues that small is beautiful and more efficient when it comes to the environmental benefits to our planet ‘Plant a tree and save the planet’ – I’m sure you have heard that. ‘Green credentials’ – heard of them?

And what about ‘carbon footprint’ ‘carbon sequestering’ and ‘carbon neutral’ - I bet you have heard those terms as well.

What a veritable swarm of buzz words!

The universal panacea to all the world’s climate problems is to plant trees, it doesn’t matter how ‘dirty’ your operation is if you plant enough trees to compensate for it.

Industrialists, developers and politicians all want to boost their ‘green’ credentials by planting trees. Gardeners who have, I believe, a far more genuine commitment to do their bit for the environment, also want to plant trees.

Picking up an acorn whilst out for a walk, taking it home and planting it in the ground to grow an oak tree in your garden is an entirely ‘carbon neutral’ operation and every bit of growth that your tree achieves will be of benefit.

But what about larger tree planting, what about the bold statement semi-mature tree, what impact do they have?

A recent work published by Dr Andrew Koeser of the University of Florida Gulf Coast Research and Education Centre regarding a research project using life cycle assessment techniques to assess the carbon footprint of a semi-mature planted tree in various situations, came up with some sobering revelations.

Large tree planting stock is rarely produced locally to planting sites. In the American study the nursery was 38 miles from the planting site. That, by English standards, is very close as many semi-mature trees planted in England originate on the continent (which also raises a bio-security can of worms).

Semi-mature trees are heavy and bulky and have to be managed, lifted, root-balled and moved around the nursery by mechanical means. Their size and bulk also restricts the number of trees that can be carried on one lorry.

They have to be lifted off the lorry mechanically and their planting holes are mechanically excavated. They have high maintenance requirements and are frequently watered with the use of mechanical browsers etc.

The consequence of this, revealed in the American research, is that it may take as long as 33 years for a planted semimature tree to reach carbon neutrality, and that, bear in mind, was with a travelling distance from the nursery of only 38 miles. In the American study, reducing the amount of machinery used to an absolute minimum by, for example, hand digging the planting hole and pedestrian watering, reduced that time span to 27 years.

Many of us are by now used to the concept of looking behind the product to assess how ‘green’ it actually is.

Perhaps the most well known are things like electric and hybrid cars, with less emissions as they run around on our roads, but do they ever pay back the environmental cost of building the thing in the first place? But trees??? Who would ever have thought it?

Of course there can be very good reasons for planting large trees, the saddest one is that small trees are too vulnerable to vandalism. Plant a small, standard size tree in a public place and some mindless moron will come along and snap the top out of it. We can’t even blame the ‘youth of today’; it was just as much of a problem when I started out in arboriculture in the 1970s as it is now.

So I’m not saying ‘no large trees should be planted’, but I am suggesting that the question should always be asked do we need a tree that big – or do we simply want one?

Environmentally speaking – small is beautiful.

Mark Hinsley is from Arboriclture Consultants Ltd. www.treeadvice.info

www.countrygardener.co.uk

27

THE

heALthY HEART

GARDEN Elizabeth McCorquodale says the perfect combination of reducing stress through gardening plus growing heart healthy foods should be a mantra for us all to follow Gardening is good for you, pure and simple.

Whether you garden on a balcony or an allotment, or in the grounds of a stately home, every part of gardening, from the planning and planting through the digging and weeding, all the way through to enjoying the finished product – whether that means harvesting a season’s worth of fruit and veg or just feasting your eyes on the beauty you have created – all of it works together to foster a healthy heart and a healthy lifestyle.

or weight loss program. The key difference between just burning calories or working up a sweat in the gym compared to working outside in the garden is just that; we are outside, in the garden and all our senses are engaged. Because of the variety of tasks that gardening demands, regular forays into the garden improve core strength and flexibility, hone and tone fine and gross motor skills and regular working and walking around out-of-doors has even been shown to improve balance and prevent falls in older people.

Good physical and mental health depends, of course, on many factors. Improving our body’s strength, flexibility and endurance, maintaining a healthy weight, reducing our stress levels and eating a healthy diet all influence our overall health and feeling of well-being, not to mention our longevity, and all of these can be improved and maintained by spending time working in the garden.

Helping to maintain a healthy body weight is one of the obvious benefits of gardening. Simple, pleasant tasks such as weeding and planting will burn between 200 and 300 calories an hour depending on the speed and the vigour with which they are performed, which is about the same as you would burn in half an hour on a stationary bike at a gym. Digging and turning a compost heap will burn a very respectable 400 calories an hour and even lawn mowing or raking will burn around 300 calories if done at a good pace.

Those of us who indulge in regular bouts of physical activity which we really enjoy, rather than dutifully slogging it out on an exercise machine for instance, reap all sorts of health benefits over and above the simple cardiac work-out 28

Freshly picked organic vegetables can work wonders on your diet

Gardening doesn’t just give our bodies a workout, but helps to keep our brains agile and responsive. Just about every garden task makes demands, not just on our bodies, but on all our faculties. We touch, smell, listen and taste, and

Country Gardener

drink in the sights all around us. We read the weather and the seasons, de-code the subtle, almost unseen signals from the plants we tend and we problem solve and plan what to do today, tomorrow, next week and this time next year. Gardening gives a very real sense of control in an otherwise chaotic world, relieving stress and improving mental health.

This stress reduction has also been shown to be very effective in a wider context, and horticultural therapy is now firmly established as a proven management tool for all kinds of mood, hormone and mental health related conditions including depression and dementia.

It is thought that the state of mind that we enter when gardening has a calming, therapeutic effect which comes about when all our senses are fully engaged in the here and now. This complete immersion in the task-athand results in the release of endorphins and other ‘feel-good’ hormones and reduces the production of the stress hormone, cortisol.

But what does all this have to do with heart health? Well, stress - with all the attendant health issues, such as high blood pressure, rapid heartbeat and palpitations, increased bouts of infection and illness - is a key factor in determining who is at risk of heart disease.

Reduce stress, increase well-being and you reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke.

Of course the food we eat is a real key to maintaining healthy cholesterol levels and keeping a healthy body weight and it is natural to turn to our gardens to supply the ingredients to a healthy diet. A dangerously high cholesterol level can be reduced by a whopping 30 per cent by dietary changes alone, with significant results measurable in as little as six weeks. The key to this dramatic reduction is a marked increase in fibre intake and a drastic reduction in the consumption of saturated fats. These dietary changes coupled with regular gardening activity can slash your risk of suffering from heart disease or stroke by 50 per cent.

So what are the best heart-healthy foods to grow in your garden? Look at these to figure out how to get the recommended daily amount of 30g of fibre which should be part of every heart-healthy diet.

1. Courgettes and cucumbers have less than one gram of fibre per 100g portion.

2. Sweetcorn, leeks, turnips, fennel, sweet potato, green beans, spinach, celery and carrots all have 2g for each 100 gram portion.

3. Kale, cabbage, broccoli, jacket potatoes, aubergines, string beans and mangetout have three grams of fibre per 100 grams.

4. Sprouts, fresh peas, okra, celeriac and parsnips have four grams of fibre per 100 gram portion.

5. Artichokes (including the tasty top two or three inches of stem under the bud) have 5g per 100g serving as do all the dried fruits that you can pick and dry from your own vines and trees including apricots, raisins and prunes.

6. Blueberries, raspberries and blackberries have 6 grams of fibre per 100g portion.

7. But the winners in the home grown veg competition are beans – all beans that are grown for shelling or drying including kidney beans, flagelots, chickpeas, broad beans, pintos and navy beans (the source of the good old ‘baked bean’) have a whopping seven grams of fibre per 100g portion.

Don’t f orget the nuts!

A small handful of nuts can provide up to four grams of fibre and a very healthy dose of unsaturated fats every day, but they are expensive. A family of four can easily consume over £500 worth of nuts in a year just to meet the government’s recommended daily amount of nuts for maintaining a healthy cholesterol level, but any small to medium sized garden could provide more than enough home grown nuts to meet that requirement. All the varieties that can be grown in UK – hazelnuts, chestnuts, almonds and walnuts - are easy to grow, harvest, dry and store and depending on the variety chosen, can begin producing only the second or third year after planting.

With dwarf trees now available, planting a nut tree is a very good alternative to shelling out hundreds of pounds for years to come.

For more information about growing nuts, see the online article from the July 2014 edition of Country Gardener at www.countrygardener.co.uk www.countrygardener.co.uk

29

The simple pleasures of RAKING LEAVES Professional gardener Grenville Sheringham finds delights in one of the gentler autumn tasks and has some advice about how to do it properly As autumn approaches, we gardeners breathe a sigh of relief as the grass stops growing, nothing needs watering, and annual weeds turn brown and go back whence they came.

But then the trees start to shed their leaves.

Not just your trees, but it seems like all the leaves from your neighbours’ trees and even the street trees end up on your lawn. If you have a large garden, leaf raking can seem a huge and relatively unrewarding chore, but there are ways to make it less onerous and even enjoyable.

As a professional gardener I welcome the leaf raking season, as it means a complete change of activity; a chance to relax muscles overworked from weeding and mowing, and wake up other muscles that have been taking time off in the summer rush.

I love the swish-swish rhythm of raking leaves, the soothing sound like waves on a shingle beach. Raking leaves is a great way to exercise back and arm muscles tired from a summer of bending over to weed and hoe and edge, and the regular rhythm gives the mind time to relax and wander.

But effective leaf raking involves learning a few techniques which, once practised, will make it a more enjoyable activity. I always use a wide-headed plastic rake, because it is light to handle and covers a lot of ground in one sweep. A metal ‘springbok’ type rake is much harder work. In my younger days 30

we used to use wide-toothed wooden hay rakes which were always breaking, but we would repair them on rainy days when we were stuck in the tool shed.

The first rule of leaf raking is don’t double-rake. We all tend to do it – rake it once, then have another rake to catch the few leaves left behind. Don’t do it. Rake once then move on. You’ll be surprised how much quicker this is. Rake in straight lines. Decide how long your line is going to be, then at the end of the row, rake back to where you started, then rake back again until you have a sizeable pile of leaves in a neat row.

Don’t try to get every leaf – there will always be more to come. Think of about 70 per cent as a good average. Now start raking from the other side of your neat row, and rake about the same number of leaves into your row. Then you can rake the row of leaves into heaps, ready to load on your barrow.

You can buy plastic extensions to fit on top of your barrow, which can more than double its leaf-carrying capacity, or you can use a couple of scrap planks of wood to increase its height. This is fine in dry weather, but an expanded barrowful of wet leaves can be very heavy!

"What if it’s a windy day", you ask, "and leaves are blowing all over the place as fast as you can rake them up?"

My advice is find something else to do, and wait for a calm, dry day. They do happen, even in an English autumn.

So what should you do with all these leaves you have so carefully gathered? Well, there are many theories, ranging from filling big plastic sacks with no bottoms to having a big smoky bonfire. If you have a large garden, my personal preference is for stacking them in a hidden corner somewhere where they can rot away quietly for a few years until they are ready to be used as a mineral-rich mulch on beds and borders. If you don’t have the luxury of such spaces (but also presumably fewer leaves) you can make a simple open front leaf pen from wire netting and a few stakes. Stack the leaves in this until it is half full, then trample them down to compact them, and add some more until it is full up. Small amounts can simply be added to your usual compost bin, alternating with layers of soil or other composting material.

So there you are. Don’t despair when you see leaves descending in droves on your nice tidy garden. Get raking, and enjoy the sounds and smells of autumn!

Country Gardener

WILDLIFE

Redwings and fieldfares

– winter visitors

It's red underwing helps to identify the redwing, the first of our winter visiting birds

When the swallows and other summer visitors have left us for warmer climes, other bird species arrive to escape harsher winter conditions elsewhere – including fieldfares and redwings Tens of millions of birds arrive on our shores during the autumn, geese and swans but also colourful thrushes such as fieldfares and redwings. They come from far afield, after travelling for several thousand miles from the north and east – Scandinavia, the Arctic and northern Europe.

They come to us because food in their breeding grounds is often hidden under snow and ice; our much milder weather in winter means that food is easier to find and there’s a greater chance of survival. In spring, these visitors will return to their relatively safe breeding quarters.

Redwings The first of these winter visitors to arrive, redwings can be seen from September, with most coming to the UK in October and November. They leave again in March and April, although occasionally birds stay later. The redwing (Latin name Turdus iliacus) is the UK's smallest true thrush. Its creamy strip above the eye and orange-red flank patches make it distinctive.

They roam across the UK's countryside, feeding in fields and hedgerows, rarely visiting gardens, except in the coldest weather when snow covers the fields. Only a few pairs nest in the UK. Look for them in open countryside where they like hedges and orchards as well as open, grassy fields. They will also come to parks and gardens and redwings often join with flocks of fieldfares. Their diet is mainly berries, particularly holly berries and haws of the hawthorn, and worms.

Fieldfares One of the great sights on a sunny winter’s afternoon is to see a mass of fieldfares flying across a field. They are large, colourful thrushes, much like a mistle thrush in general size, shape and behaviour. They stand very upright and move forward with purposeful hops. They are very social birds, spending the winter in flocks of anything from a dozen or two to several hundred strong, a noisy bunch.

Fieldfares (Latin name Turdus pilaris) begin to arrive from October and numbers build up as the winter progresses.

Birds start to return to their northern and eastern breeding grounds in March and some may stay into May. Look for them in the countryside, along hedges and in fields, particularly among hawthorn hedges with berries. In late winter they’ll be in grass fields, playing fields and arable fields with nearby trees and hedges, and they may come into gardens in severe winters. They eat insects, worms and berries, and they also love apples, like our resident garden blackbirds.

Adult male and female fieldfares are similar in appearance, except that the female is generally a dull brown. The male has blue-grey crown, nape, and rump; chestnut brown back, black tail, and a buff breast with black streaks that also extends to the flanks. The underwing is white – this and the pale grey rump are most noticeable when they are in flight.

How to tell redwings and fieldfares apart Redwings are noticeably smaller than fieldfares – they are around the same size as song thrushes, with prominent pale stripes above the eyes and below the cheeks, and possess relatively short tails and rusty-red flanks and underwings.

Fieldfares are similar in size to mistle thrushes, their plumage is pale grey on the rump, crown and nape, and they have particularly dark, quite long tails and white underwings.

When in flight, the fieldfares’ harsh, often quite loud, chattering calls are distinctive; whilst the redwings’ thin tseeip-tseeip-tseeip sounds are considerably less audible.

Only very rarely does either bird fully sing whilst in Britain although redwing subsong, a prolonged, quiet, twittering chorus, is sometimes heard, particularly as flocks settle down communally to roost, in the days immediately prior to flying away from the UK and whilst flocks rest during Fieldfare in flight migratory

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31

Tune up your Greenfingers soil this autumn Garden Centre and Streamside Cafe

• Gift ideas • Ornamental trees • Christmas trees • Christmas decorations • Wild birds • Fruit bushes/trees • Help & advice • Knowledgeable staff • Open 7 days a week • Easy parking

Book now for Christmas Lunch

Late autumn and early winter are perfect times of the year to look closely at the state of your soil and see what help you can give it to meet the demands of next year.

Even the poorest soil can be given new life.

Improving the soil involves two aspects - firstly adding more nutrients and secondly adding humus (organic material like garden compost or manure) to improve the structure.

Adding organic material makes the soil airier and this aids root development and tends to improve drainage on heavy soil. Once the organic material breaks down, after a year or so, the process may need repeating.

The main consideration is your type of soil. Those on heavy clay may wish to add coarse grit to heavy clay to improve drainage.

Pound Lane, Exmouth, Devon, EX8 3LE Tel Garden Centre: 01395 274632 Tel Café: 01395 224646 www.greenfingers-gardencentre.co.uk

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Adding grit has the advantage of being permanent and clay is already a fertile medium. Once the digging is done it would then be possible to top dress with a sprinkling of a slow-release fertiliser like blood, fish and bone.

Add manures for nitrogen. All livestock manures can be valuable additions to soil — their nutrients are readily available to soil organisms and plants. In fact, manures make a greater contribution to soil aggregation than composts, which have already mostly decomposed.

You should apply manure with care. Although pathogens are less likely to be found in manures from small farms or horse stables than those from larger livestock operations, you should allow three months between application and harvest of root crops or leafy vegetables such as lettuce and spinach to guard against contamination.

Making your own coMpost is essential Composting is a means of recycling almost any organic wastes. It reduces the bulk of organic materials, stabilizes their more volatile and soluble nutrients, and speeds up the formation of soil humus.

To build a compost pile, start by layering organic materials.

Alternate more readily decomposable materials — fresh, high-nitrogen wastes, such as manures, crop residues, kitchen wastes and weeds — with less decomposable materials — drier, coarser and high-carbon wastes, such as autumn leaves, straw and corncobs. Microbes feed on all these materials and break them down into simpler, more stable compounds.

The microbes need water and oxygen, so keep the pile moist, but not sopping wet. To encourage aeration, mix the coarser elements throughout the pile to ensure plenty of air space.

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TIME Off

GARDEN EVENTS AROUND DEVON compiled by Kate Lewis

Here’s a selection of gardening events to look out for during the next few weeks throughout Devon.

Send us details of your event at least ten weeks before publication and we will publicise it free of charge. Make sure you let us know where the event is being held, the date and include a contact telephone number.

We are keen to support garden club events and we will be glad to publicise talks and shows held during the year where clubs want to attract a wider audience, but we do not have space for club outings or parties. We suggest that garden clubs send us their diary for the year for events to be included in the relevant issue of the magazine. Please send to Country Gardener Magazines, Mount House, Halse, Taunton TA4 3AD or by email to timeoff@countrygardener.co.uk and copy to vivienne@countrygardener.co.uk .

We take great care to ensure that details are correct at the time of going to press but we advise readers to check wherever possible before starting out on a journey as circumstances can force last minute changes. All NGS open gardens can be found on www.ngs.org.uk or in the local NGS booklet available at many outlets.

NO VEMBER DIARY 1st

Drewsteignton, NT Castle Drogo, 01647 433306

William Morris Lecture Lunch with Judith Richardson-Dawes How did William Morris design his fabulous wallpapers?

How did he create his fine tapestries? All will be revealed in this lecture lunch. 11am – 3pm. £22.50, includes coffee and lunch.

8th

London, Royal Geographical Society Roy Strong Lecture:

Restoration of Shakespeare’s Garden Join the National Gardens Scheme for a fascinating and entertaining evening with Roy Strong as he explores the history and recent renovation of Shakespeare’s Stratfordupon-Avon garden. Bar opens 6pm. Lecture at 7pm. Tickets £20 on www.ngs.org.uk 12th/13th Tiverton, NT Knightshayes Court, 01884 257381

Christmas Food and Drink Fair Stock up for Christmas with food and drink from small brewers and vineyards selling by the glass and bottle and stalls selling locally sourced foods and edible gifts. 10am – 4pm.

12th Barnstaple, Hakeford Woods Autumn in the Woods Pull on your walking boots and

34

Country Gardener

join Devon Wildlife Trust for a walk in mixed woodland, looking out for potentially edible plants and fungi. 11am – 3pm.

24th Torrington, RHS Rosemoor, 01805 626800

Willow Weaving - Birdfeeder and Christmas Decorations Discover the ancient skill of willow weaving with professional basket-maker Jane Welsh. Learn how to make a variety of Christmas decorations - trees, stars and other small gifts including a bird feeder, from a selection of beautiful willows. 9.30am.

26th

RHS member £56, non-member £66.

Plympton, NT Saltram, 01752 333503

2nd

2nd

30th

Christmas Festival Get into the Christmas spirit as the garden transforms into a festive craft and food fair. Don’t miss the chance to explore the enchanted house, magically decorated for Christmas. 10am – 4pm. Free event but normal admission prices apply.

Broadclyst, Killerton, 01392 881345

3rd

3rd

8th

10th

11th

16th

Creating a Festive Fireplace Wow your friends and family with a beautifully decorated fireplace this Christmas. Sarah Peppers shows how to make an arrangement from foliage from the estate which can be taken home. 10.30am – 12.30pm. £22.50.

CLUBS AND O THER ORGANISAT IONS November 2nd Broadhembury & District Gardening Club ‘STRAWBERRIES & OTHER

16th

GARDEN FRUITS’ – PENELOPE TOWNSEND Details on 01404 841515 Newton St Cyres Gardening Club ‘UNUSUAL & INTERESTING TREES & SHRUBS’ – CHRIS BRITTON Details on 01392 851400 Torquay & District Horticultural Society ‘GARDENS OF PAIGNTON ZOO’ – GILES PALMER www.ths.btck.co.uk Plympton Gardeners Association CHARITY SPEAKER & QUIZ Teignmouth Gardening Club CHAIRMAN’S EVENING & AGM Details on 01626 774287 Tiverton Garden Club ‘PLANTS FOR WINTER GARDENS’ – PAUL FONNEREAU Details on 01884 258283 West Hill Garden Club AGM & SHARED SUPPER Details on 01404 811263 Bishopsteignton Garden Club ‘CAMELLIAS’ – JEREMY WILSON Details on 01626 774049 Knowstone & Rose Ash Garden Club ‘A SCENTED GARDEN’ Details on 01884 881325 Torquay & District Horticultural Society ‘CACTI & SUCCULENTS’ – BARRY REID

www.ths.btck.co.uk 19th Ottery St Mary Gardening Club END OF SEASON QUIZ & SOCIAL Details on 01404 813643 st 21 Whitestone Gardening Club ‘SEEDS – GARDENERS’ FRIEND & NURSERYMAN’S NIGHTMARE’ Details on 01392 811979 22nd Crediton Garden Club RALPH NORTHCOTT FROM THE CACTUS SHOP, WINKLEIGH Details on 01363 775501 24th Dawlish Garden Club ‘THE OLIVE TREE OF PEACE’ – CARADOC DOY th 29 Exmouth Garden Club CHAIRMAN’S EVENING – AGM & TALK Details on 01395 263513 th 29 Tiverton Garden Club COFFEE MORNING & CHRISTMAS BRING AND BUY SALE Details on 01884 258283 29th Yealm Garden Society ‘THE COTHELE CHRISTMAS GARLAND’ – DAVID BOUCH Details on 01752 872471 30th Torquay & District Horticultural Society ‘THE HOLLY AND THE IVY’ – ROY CHEEK www.ths.btck.co.uk

Are you part of a garden club or society?

DO YOU HAVE ANY EVENTS YOU’D LIKE TO PUBLICISE?

It’s free!

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Please send us your diary for the year - we’d love to include your talks and shows Send them into us by email to: timeoff@countrygardener.co.uk or by post to: Mount House, Halse, Taunton, TA4 3AD. Your event can also be listed on: www.countrygardener.co.uk Sign up to add your events today

35

ENDING ON A NOTE

high

Chrysanthemum ‘Anastasia’

Hardy garden chrysanthemums bring an abundance of colour to autumn borders and with some cultivars lasting well into winter it’s not surprising they are back in fashion Chrysanthemums are a stalwart of the autumn garden.

By early November, gardens look rather shaggy and distinctly short of flower colour. That is why very lateflowering, hardy chrysanthemums can be such a boon, especially in a dry, almost frost-free autumn such as the one we have experienced this year.

With varieties hardy in most climates and their ability to be pinched and forced to bloom at the end of the season, these jewel toned beauties make a welcome splash in the garden when almost all the summer colour has gone. Bloom times vary of course with the variety you opt for and climate, but generally they will add colour from early September through to early November.

The groups of chrysanthemum that are hardy in British gardens and flower in the autumn are the Korean, the rubellum and the Japanese semi-pompons. They come in a wide range of colours and usually associate well with the other great staples of autumn herbaceous plantings, Michaelmas daisies, rudbeckias and Verbena bonariensis.

Hardy chrysanthemums make clumps, woody at the base, and send up stems to 80cm-1m (32in-40in). The daisy flowers can be single, semi-double or fully double, depending on variety.

They do best in full sun, in a well-drained, fertile, slightly alkaline soil.

These chrysanthemums are best staked; they are reasonably sturdy, but autumn gales can be very strong.

There are multiple flower forms, although many varieties are hard to find and need to be specially ordered.

Some varieties sold in garden centres have been raised 36

under glass, so are not truly hardy, so always buy from a specialist nursery raising hardy stock.

But remember with the hardy varieties not to expect large, showy blooms: most hardy varieties bear sprays of delicate flowers that fit into a border well.

Most are easy and resilient and they were planted widely in the past as cut flowers, often surviving as unnamed varieties in older gardens.

They are making a considerable comeback in recent years for no other reason that gardeners are seeking for that late colour to extend the season. With the recent run of mild autumns it is only natural that chrysanthemums should come to the fore.

Chrysanthemums all require a sunny position that remains warm and sunny in autumn.

They also require space, as they are slow to start into growth, so could easily be smothered by earlier flowering plants like nepetas and hardy geraniums.

For this reason, grow among similarly late-flowering plants including colchicums and nerines, which look especially good with pink and magenta chrysanthemums.

WHEN TO DIVIDE Some varieties of chrysanthemums endure for many years without division. Others may need dividing as they are losing vigour, or you may need more plants. If so, divide in May as new growth has got going. Replant the strongest pieces straight back into soil enriched with blood, fish and bone spacing them just over a foot apart. Or put up your divisions and plant out in early September.

WHEN TO TAKE CUTTINGS Chrysanthemum cuttings can also be taken in May. Select strong shoots about two or three inches in length (5 - 7 cm)

Country Gardener

and insert them into gritty compost. Place in shade and warmth. Pinch out as the cuttings race away.

WHEN TO THIN Some do run about, but others are clump forming. Hardy chrysanthemums are best thinned in late May, but only if the clumps look congested.

Cut out some of the weaker stems and water well if the weather has been dry, for these plants are used to a damp, warm Asian summer so they need moisture to grow well.

Hardy chrysanthemums have strong woody stems so you can get away without staking .Adding extra nitrogen will make them lusher and then staking may be required. Use blood, fish and bone or Growmore every spring, as a slowrelease feed. Deadheading is only necessary in warmer climates, where the plants remain green throughout winter.

In other areas, the plants will probably be hit by frost before the flowers fade.

The single varieties sustain late-flying bees and butterflies with their honey-tansy scent. Disease problems are few, one of the reasons why these plants are easy to grow.

Insects like to nest in the leaves in the autumn, especially aphids. If it is a problem, spray or dust lightly with an organic soap solution.

Hardy chrysanthemums are best at the front of the border as they do not get swamped. They can either follow asters, or be placed in front of other autumn flowering plants. The oranges and warm shades blend well with asters, or they can be used in front of grasses.

ricot Moneymaker’

Chrysanthemum ‘Ap

ara Curtis’

Chrysanthemum ‘Cl

What to grow

Chrysanthemum ‘Clara Curtis’ - from the rubellum group with long-lasting, early season, single or semidouble pink flowers Chrysanthemum ‘Mary Stoker’ - rubellum – early season with apricot yellow single flowerheads.

Chrysanthemum ‘Apricot Moneymaker’ – midseason anemone style with bronze petals Chrysanthemum ‘Golden Greenheart’ - a semidouble green-centred soft bronze.

Chrysanthemum ‘Mrs Jessie Cooper’ -a crisp single magenta-pink Chrysanthemum ‘Anastasia’ - rich purple-tomagenta buttons, Chrysanthemum ‘Clara Curtis’ - a graceful singlepink heritage variety which always looks terrific with hardy nerines in a sunny border in September Chrysanthemum ‘Julia Peterson’ - a cluster of small buttons in deep purple-pink between September and November, bred and named by Clive Hester in Gloucestershire and very pretty.

Chrysanthemum ‘Emperor of China’ - one of the loveliest, with double silver-pink flowers set off by foliage which reddens in autumn. Petals quilled and taller than most, flowering in November.

Chrysanthemum ‘Rose Madder’ - very resilient, brownish-pink single which flowers in October.

peror of China’

Chrysanthemum ‘Em

terson’

lia Pe Chrysanthemum ‘Ju

rs Jessie Cooper’

Chrysanthemum ‘M

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Tel: 07546 874083 / 01643 818092 andrew@atpgardening.co.uk www.atpgardening.co.uk

NESTING BOXES FEEDERS INSECT HOMES CAMERA NESTBOXES WILDLIFE CAMERAS Quality products carefully made in Britain Tel: 01675 442299 www.nestbox.co.uk

Advertise here...

Advertise here... ...from just £2 per word

Call 01278 671037 for details, or email: ava@countrygardener.co.uk

...from just £2 per word Boxed out full colour advertisements are available for an extra £20.

Call 01278 671037 for details, or email: ava@countrygardener.co.uk

Tel: 01256 809 640 sales @chicteak.co.uk www.chic-teak.co.uk

Garden Products

Dorset Hazel Hurdles. Made to order

by Alan Brown, Wool, Dorset. 01929 462761 www.brownshurdles.co.uk

Polytunnels FREE BROCHURE

Specialist Nurseries & Plants ACORN TREES & SHRUBS TREES THAT DANCE IN THE LIGHTEST OF BREEZES

Polytunnels from £345 available to view by appointment 01363 84948 info@ferrymanpolytunnels.co.uk

www.ferrymanpolytunnels.co.uk

Garden Services

Specialist Garden Products Ex display sheds. Stables, field shelters, garages, summerhouses, offices, workshops/agricultural 01935 891195.

MALVERN COPPICING Drystone Walling and Paving Mortared work also undertaken.

Patrick Houchen - DSWA member.

Tel: 01963 371123 www.yenstonewalling.co.uk 40

Rustic timber garden rooms, summer houses, gazebos and garden structures from sustainably managed local woodlands

Tel. 01684 574865 Mob. 07443520040 www.malverncoppicing.co.uk

Country Gardener

RARE AND CHOICE CONIFERS ae, including pinus montezum a pinus schwerinii, holfordian & engelmannii

MAIL ORDER WELCOME | VISIT BY APPOINTMENT ONLY

TEL: 01884 881 633 / 07976 807 510 goakey101@gmail.com 55x45 EMAIL: DWL ad_Dorset Water Lily 16/01/2015 Hilltown Farm, Rackenford, Devon, EX16 8DX

DORSET WATER LILY COMPANY

UK’s largest selection of established, pot grown water lilies; Speciality hardy exotics, tropical waterside, marginals and moisture loving bogside.

Landscaping & Design Service.

Tel: 01935 891668

Email: dorsetwaterlily@uwclub.net

www.dorsetwaterlily.co.uk

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CLASSIF IED DULFORD Thornhayes nursery specialist NURSERIES Devon’s tree grower for SPECIALIST TREE & SHRUB GROWERS Growers & suppliers of the widest range of Native & Ornamental Trees, Shrubs & Hedging in the West Country

a wide range of ornamental, fruit, hedging trees and a selection of choice shrubs.

Courses, expert advice, arboretum, display fruit garden.

Tel: 01884 266361 www.dulford-nurseries.co.uk

Tel: 01884 266746 www.thornhayes-nursery.co.uk

Dulford Nurseries, Dulford, Cullompton, Devon EX15 2BY

Devon Bonsai Springfield Bonsai Nursery, Cheriton Bishop, Exeter, EX6 6JN Open 6 days a week 10am-6pm (Closed Tuesdays) Wide selection of Bonsai, accessories & workshops Telephone 0164724866 Neil’s Mobile 07833247442

www.devonbonsai.co.uk

Wanted/For Sale

TREE SHOP mail@tree-shop.co.uk MON-FRI 830-330

Wanted Old Radio Valves And Audio Valves. Tel: 02392 251062

Office at Harts Barn, Monmouth Road, Longhope GL17 0QD

Local suppliers of good quality trees and shrubs Hazel, Beech, Field Maple, Quick Thorn/ Blackthorn & many more hedging trees.

Silver Birch, Walnut, Cheery, Golden Locust, many more native & unusual trees & plants to choose from. NO MINIMUM ORDER.

Advertise here... ...from just £2 per word

01452 832 100 www.tree-shop.co.uk

2015

Issue No 1 Spring 2016

Hampshire

Sussex

Issue No 82 Winter 2015

Cotswolds

Issue No 118 November

FREE

FREE

FREE

Jobs to do in the winter garden

PRIMULAS get ready

THE LAST HURRAH!

to welcome Spring

can combat How fruiting plants autumn the sombre greys of IAS SUCCEE D WITH GARDEN ops to come Dreaming of snowdr Getting down and dirty les with winter vegetab hire throughout Hamps Gardening events beyond to Christmas - and

perennials Perfect late flowering COPING UNDERSTANDING AND GARDEN WITH FROSTS IN THE events galore Autumn gardening lds throughout the Cotswo

ntrygardener.co.uk

ntrygardener.co.uk

www.cou

drop-in sessions.

Fosse Way, Northleach,

DO YOU HAVE ANY EVENTS YOU’D LIKE TO PUBLICISE?

It’s free!

Gardening events

galore throughout

Planting for a wildlife

Sussex

haven k

www.countrygardener.co.u

www.cou £3 per child.

for these fun . with the Barber-Surgeon medieval medicine and crafts.

2-4pm. Experience Tuesday 27th October Roadshow. Fossil identification 1-4pm. Rock and Fossil onb.org.uk/discoverycentre Thursday 29th October 3JH www.cotswoldsa

Join us in half-term

NS OPEN TO VISIT

EARLY SEASON GARDE

www.garsons.co.uk

TITCHFIELD Fontley Road Titchfield Hampshire PO15 6QX 01329 844336

ESHER Winterdown Rd West End, Esher Surrey KT10 8LS 01372 460181

Gloucestershire, GL54

Are you part of a garden club or society?

Please send us your diary for the year - we’d love to include your talks and shows Send them into us by email to: timeoff@countrygardener.co.uk or by post to: Mount House, Halse, Taunton, TA4 3AD. Your event can also be listed online at:

www.countrygardener.co.uk

Sign up and start adding your events today www.countrygardener.co.uk

41

The difference is clear with a Thomas Sanderson Conservatory Valet

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BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

BEFORE

AFTER

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"The team worked efficiently, fast and with no mess. The final result internally and externally was just what we wanted. Would recommend this company without reservation." *Terms and Conditions apply

†Statistics as of 11/11/15

96%† For an INSTANT QUOTE simply call

0800 051 7701 Quote T9280 www.ts-specialoffer.co.uk 42

Country Gardener

4.7/5†

Tree Field Tours Old Rydon Lane 10th, 11th and 12th November at 10.30am

Tickets £2pp with all money going to our charity of the year, Children’s hospice SouthWest.

See hundreds of ornamental and fruit trees growing in our tree fields.

Learn how we graft trees and what you need to look for when buying a tree.

We will explain terms such as rootstocks, tree shapes and pollination groups.

Wellingtons are recommended as the tour is entirely in an open ground field.

For further information please see our website. Advance booking essential.

St. Bridget Nurseries Garden Centres Est. 1925

www.stbridgetnurseries.co.uk

Garden Centre & Nursery: Old Rydon Lane (access off A379) Exeter, EX2 7JY Tel: 01392 873672 Garden & Aquatic Centre: Sidmouth Road (A3052) Clyst St Mary, EX5 1AE Tel: 01392 876281 Open: Monday-Saturday 9-5 Sunday 10.30-4.30