A LIFE IN BALANCE
SEPT/OCT 2023 £4.95
30
PAGES ON FUTUREPROOF DESIGN
FIELDS OF GOLD Get thee to the GREAT OUTDOORS
IN THE FRAME
THE STYLIST
Tiffanie Darke’s new column GOOD BUSINESS
What’s all the buzz about B Corp?
IT’S EVE HEWSON’S TIME TO SHINE
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A U D E M A R S P I G U E T B O U T I Q U E S L O N D O N : S L O A N E S T R E E T · H A R R O D S F I N E WAT C H E S AP HOUSE LONDON : NEW BOND STREET
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The TheSpencer SpencerTwins Twinswear wearBarcelona Barcelona
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Elegance is an attitude Jennifer Lawrence
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Longines boutique 411 Oxford Street, London shop online www.longines.co.uk
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Contents
SEPT OCT 2023
COLUMNS 22
26 208
THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B turns heads in the Cotswolds THE RURBANIST Life in the fast lane with Jenson Button LAST WORD What will it take to wean us off our gas-guzzlers?
STYLE 31
32 34 38 42 44
STRIKE A POSE Zimmermann’s take on tweed THE STYLIST Our new columnist Tiffanie Darke follows these fashion rules THE EDIT Style news STAY GOLDEN A hue for you THE MAGPIE Jewellery news WELL GROOMED Men’s style
HEALTH & WELLBEING 49 50 52 54 56 58 60
QUITE A STRETCH Future-proof your body THE SCOOP Discovering London’s subterranean private wellness club BODY & SOUL Joint health BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon asks what Airsculpt body contouring’s all about PUT A LID ON IT The clinic that can put a halt to hair loss BEAUTY DILEMMA How to be a better blonde TRIED & TESTED Is semipermanent eyeliner for you?
CULTURE 63
64 72 74 76 78 80 82 84
92
86
PLAY TIME ISN’T OVER Climbing the furniture at the Design Museum CULTURAL CALENDAR What to see, read and do IN A BIND Simon Burnstein is saving Britain’s bookbinding industry THE EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey’s passion for fashion ARTIST’S STUDIO Gillie & Marc LITTLE GREEN BOOK Ruby Raut is transforming lives with her periodcare brand WUKA GOOD TIMES Feelgood news in uncertain times THE CONSERVATIONIST Are we entering the age of water rationing? asks James Wallace ROAD TEST We’re loving the VW ID. Buzz Cargo MOVING SCULPTURES The king of the road – Rolls-Royce – goes electric
6 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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Contents
SEPT OCT 2023
CULTURE CONT... 88 90
SCARFES BAR Lolita Chakrabarti C&TH X BYLINE TIMES Celebrating 75 years of the NHS
FEATURES 92
101 107 110
TURN IT UP Meeting the irrepressible Eve Hewson TO B OR NOT TO B Lucy Cleland asks what all the buzz is about B Corp I CAPTURED THE CASTLE Jane Knight brings us the story behind a real-life fairytale – that you can stay in THE HEAT IS ON It’s not proving easy for Claire Wrathall to decarbonise her listed home
THE GREAT OUTDOORS 113
Immerse yourself in the new season with C&TH’s guide to country pursuits
ON DESIGN 139
This season, interiors is going futuristic. We bring you the products, the trends and the stories to keep you ahead of the design game
TRAVEL 175
182 187 190
DIVE ON IN A rite of passage at The Peligoni, plus other Grecian odysseys THE ESCAPIST Travel news TICKET TO RIDE The future of travel has to be trains, says Rebecca Cox THE ETERNAL CITY’S SECOND ACT Rome’s renaissance
FOOD & DRINK 193
196 198
FORAGING UP A FEAST Autumn’s larder is the star at Galvin at Windows COOKING UP A MASTERPIECE Future-thinking at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons GASTRO GOSSIP Foodie news
PROPERTY 201
202 ON THE COVER Eve wears: jacket, skirt, gloves, beret DIOR. Bralette COMMANDO. PREVIOUS PAGE Eve wears CHANEL Fashion Director: Nicole Smallwood Photographer: David Reiss
124
THIS PAGE Model wears: jacket and boots FAIRFAX & FAVOR. Top and skirt AHLUWALIA. Bag LONGCHAMP. Chair HOLLAND & HOLLAND
204
HOUSE OF THE MONTH The home of the last King of Siam SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? The Covid country bubble has burst. What’s next? FIVE OF THE BEST Country houses
REGULARS
14 16 46
EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS SOCIAL SCENE
10 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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Fotos: Flavien Carlod und Photos: BaptisteFlavien Le Quiniou, CarlodUnverbindlich. and Baptiste Architekt: Le Quiniou,for Ramón advertising Esteve. Éditions purposes Zulma. only.
French Ar t de Vivre
Eden Rock. Dining room set, designed by Sacha Lakic. Cinecittà. Floor lamp, designed by Fabrice Berrux. Golden Scales. Rug, designed by Coco Hellein. CHELSEA – HAMPSTEAD – HARRODS – WANDSWORTH WALTON-ON-THAMES – MANCHESTER – REDBRICK LEEDS – DUBLIN In-store interior design & 3D modelling services.
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S TAT E M E N T K I T C H E N S • H O M E B A R S • W I N E R O O M S • B E D R O O M S • WA R D R O B E S
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B AT H R O O M S • O F F I C E S • L I B R A R I E S • C I N E M A S • G A M E S R O O M S • O U T D O O R K I T C H E N S
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business. So, joined by former classmate, Andrew Kassoy – who worked for a private equity firm focused on social change – the friends set about creating B Lab, a nonprofit that supports businesses with a more permanent structure around their social and environmental commitments. B Lab manages B Corp certifications – and B Corps are businesses that have all that good stuff baked in and accounted for. As C&TH has just been certified itself (a lengthy and very in-depth process), for this issue I wanted to delve into B Corp businesses more broadly. On page 101, I meet fellow founders to discuss their motivations around joining a movement that is rapidly gaining momentum and leads the way when it comes to businesses proving that profit – while imperative – doesn’t have to come at the expense of workers and the planet. I can’t quite get over the dazzling eyes of our cover star Eve Hewson – she’s just pure dynamite. Beloved as the youngest sister in Sharon Horgan’s brilliant Bad Sisters (and, yay, a second series is coming), she eschewed her father’s career path (he’s Bono, by the way) to succeed on her very own terms as an actor. You can catch her next in Apple TV’s charming Flora and Son from 29 September (p92). We all know we have to reach net zero and wean ourselves off fossil fuels as fast as possible, but the road to going oil- and gas-free in our homes is not necessarily paved with ease and simplicity – especially if you live in a listed property. This is something that Claire Wrathall is wrestling with – and the options are limited. She shares her story with us on page 110. Meanwhile, what do you when you inherit a Norman castle? Create the most fabulously romantic retreat, that’s what, at least that was what Jason and Demetra Lindsay did (p107). We’re delighted to showcase our first C&TH x Byline Times feature on page 90, where Suyin Hayes explores why a new touring exhibition tracing the lives of those who came to Britain to help build the NHS, is still so relevant today – as our health service celebrates its 75th anniversary. Finally, a huge welcome to Tiffanie Darke, and her new Stylist column on page 32 – fashion, done 139 sustainably. Just what we love.
Editor’s LETTER
he story of the B Corp movement began in America in 2006 when friends, Jay Coen Gilbert and Bart Houlahan, sold their super-successful – yet socially and environmentally responsible – sportswear brand AND1 to buyers, who, much to the pair’s devastation, immediately stripped out the ‘responsible’ aspect, in order to focus solely on profit. Gone were the generous parental leave benefits, widely shared ownership of the company, the donation of five percent of profits to charity annually, etc... They knew there had to be a way to protect those ethical parts of the
EDITOR’S PICKS
OUT WEST If you loved Yellowstone as much as I did, you have to watch 1883, the heartbreaking story of how the Dutton ranch came to be
A LATE SUMMER DIP Kayll is the gorgeous sustainable resortwear brand from former Alexander McQueen designer, Jessica Kayll.
HEALTH FIX Have you noticed how your local Holland & Barrett has really upped its heath food game. Kimchi, anyone?
THINK DIFFERENT A book for those who know we have a lot to learn from indigenous ways of thinking
14 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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CONTRIBUTORS
The Heat Is On, p110
I Captured the Castle, p107
Put a Lid On It, p56
The Eternal City's Second Act, p190
CLAIRE WRATHALL
JANE KNIGHT
BRIGID MOSS
ROSALYN WIKELEY
What does your dream house look like? It would be a discreet, low-maintenance passive house – and definitely not listed. Any vintage pieces you love? I wouldn’t say no to a square Frenchman’s Cove dining table (or anything really) by George Nakashima. Favourite B Corp? Pura Aventura, the Brightonbased travel company, whose carbon-mitigation initiatives seem genuinely meaningful and to be making a difference to the communities in Latin America. As its CEO said to me: 'I remember your comment in an article about the irony of flying around the world to visit somewhere precious. So it's all your fault really.' Any back-to-school September resolutions? I am determined to do all that can realistically be done to insulate our house and minimise the carbon emissions from and cost of its heating.
What does your dream house look like? I'm a fan of traditional properties, with plenty of nooks and crannies, and I'd love a proper, old-fashioned library to curl up in, ideally with window seats. Any vintage pieces you love? I often fall in love with designs in boutique hotels. At the moment, I'm lusting after the interiors at Christian Louboutin's hotel, Vermelho, in Melides, Portugal. I adored details such as the ash doors with its geometric patterns and the tiny pairs of metallic feet that acted as door stops. Somehow, he managed to put together rich parquet floors, Portuguese tiling on the walls and colourful fabrics and it all looked amazing. Favourite B Corp? It has to be Audley Travel, which does more than most tour companies when it comes to caring about the planet and the people that inhabit it.
What does your dream house look like? Exactly like my current house – a stone cottage in Somerset – but with an extra room for a study. And a bigger kitchen. And a downstairs loo. So exactly like my house but double the size. Any vintage pieces you love? What I really would love is five Vico Magistretti Carimate chairs, ideally in green. But more realistically, a set of Marcel Breuer Cesca chairs. Favourite B Corp? I’d love a With Nothing Underneath coord and Vivobarefoot shoes as they’re so comfortable and they sell refurbished pairs at Revivo. Aesop skincare as everything looks nice and smells gorgeous. Any back-to-school September resolutions? As a parent: to be confident in my son rather than worry about him. As an adult: to get a handle on my distracted, procrastinating brain.
What does your dream house look like? We live in it – an old rectory in West Dorset we scraped all treasure and energy together for. It's a Georgian doll's house with sweeping ceilings and bags of character (old room bells, a cellar which doubled up as a village bunker in the war, views over a gothic church roof from our bath). Any vintage pieces you love? I'm obsessed with opaline lamps. I'm always on the hunt for the perfect one – not too retro or scuffed up, not too polished, but chunky, brassy and beautifully mottled with age. Favourite B Corp? House of Hackney, because it proves that maximalism and sustainability are not mutually exclusive. Any back-to-school September resolutions? To invest in one beautiful winter coat. Also to explore Europe more by Eurostar – surely the smoothest way to glide into a city.
WA N T T O K NOW W H AT ’ S ON ? Get the C&TH editor’s picks and our weekly guide to What’s On — and you’ll never say you have nothing to do. Sign up at countryandtownhouse.com/newsletter countryandtown
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LUCY CLELAND EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF DEPUTY EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM ASSISTANT EDITOR & SUB EDITOR TESSA DUNTHORNE SUB EDITORS KATIE BAMBER & ANDREW BRASSLEAY FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI INTERIORS DIRECTOR CAROLE ANNETT CULTURE EDITOR ED VAIZEY EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY SUSTAINABILITY EDITOR LISA GRAINGER PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE CONTENT DIRECTOR REBECCA COX DEPUTY ONLINE EDITOR ELLIE SMITH ONLINE WRITERS CHARLIE COLVILLE, OLIVIA EMILY ONLINE ASSISTANT MARTHA DAVIES SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER DANIELLA LAXTON CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA PRODUCTION DESIGNER MIA BIAGIONI ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ELLIE RIX HEAD OF FASHION EMMA MARSH ACCOUNT DIRECTORS PANDORA LEWIS, SERENA KNIGHT DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR ADAM DEAN ACCOUNT MANAGER SABRINA RAVEN SENIOR DIGITAL SALES EXECUTIVE AISLING WHITE SALES SUPPORT, OFFICE & JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER XA RODGER TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY FINANCE ADMINISTRATOR RIA HARRISON HUMAN RESOURCES CONSULTANT ZOE JONES PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR AND JOINT B-CORP PROJECT MANAGER GEMMA COWLEY CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER TIA GRAHAM CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER JAMES THROWER MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AND WRITERS TIFFANIE DARKE, JAMES WALLACE, STEPHEN BAYLEY, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, AVRIL GROOM, MICHAEL HAYMAN, LAUREN HO, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK, CAROLINE PHILLIPS THE EDITOR editorial@countryandtownhouse.co.uk FASHION fashion@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ADVERTISING advertising@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
PROPERTY ADVERTISING property@countryandtownhouse.co.uk ACCOUNTS accounts@countryandtownhouse.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk
COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a bi-monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £39.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and Android all for only £9.99/month. visit: exacteditions.com/ read/countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse. co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox. Copyright © 2023 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. While every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.
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COLUMN
The GOOD LIFE
Things are getting electric in the Cotswolds for Alice B-B
M
Alice hit the Cotswolds lanes in a slick Polestar
R LOVE IS GRIPPING THE SEAT. We’re gliding silently along twisty Cotswold roads, but apparently I’m getting a little carried away. The reason for my pedal-to-the-metalexuberance is thanks to my new whip; it’s a Polestar, the stripling of Volvo’s electric racing car division. I’m not really a car person. A suitor once picked me up in a Ferrari; mortified, I dived in, hoping no one would see me. However, when the Polestar showed up, I immediately noticed it has a kind of sleek, Scandi soul. The design is elegantly pared-back with sci-fi quirks; wing-mirrors like Dr Spock’s ears, space-age chunky wheels and airplanelike divided front seats – a little awkward if you want to stroke the driver’s leg but great if you’re into personal space. Like most things Scandinavian it’s icy cool. And when my hip, eco-aware neighbour notes my ‘snazzy new car’, I feel a little bereft to admit that it’s just on loan (polestar.com). A CO-OP AND A CURRY HOUSE. Those were our pretty much our only options when we first moved to the magic cottage in the Cotswolds. But cor, things have got fancy round our ends. There are two new pubs in our local town of Charlbury, and frankly I couldn’t be happier. First up is The Bull (thebullcharlbury.com). It’s the sister to my favourite London pub The Pelican; elegant, authentic design, cosy bedrooms and a bewitching menu with huge Argentinian-style slow roasts at the weekend. Then there’s The Bell (thebellatcharlbury.com), owned by Carole Bamford, who knows a thing or two about pubs; her Wild Rabbit in Kingham has collected armfuls of awards and stars, while The Fox at Oddington is a cosy nook lover’s dream. The Bell packs an elegant punch, with the bonus of a vast garden for long autumn lunches. ‘OH GOD! IS THAT MONKEY POX?’ My friend yanked at the scarf round my neck to take a better look; rows of raised bumps, like tiny molehills, dotted across my neck. We were at a fancy film screening and I didn’t want to become the circus attraction – so like naughty schoolgirls we scuttled to the bathroom. ‘It’s the new fountain of youth – a polynucleotide treatment,’ I said, flinging off the scarf. Actually it’s not that new; these biostimulators, which kickstart skin regeneration, have been used for healing wounds for over 40 years, and now vain old crows with craggy necks like mine are using it. Once the bumps go down, the effects include increased cell turnover, collagen boosting, elastin production, skin hydration etc. It also works on other areas including under eye, jowls and scalp. My friend instantly demanded details of the wizard who performed this magic: the brilliant Dr Paris at Waterhouse Young Clinic (waterhouseyoung.com). Then promptly asked to borrow my scarf. n
THIS MONTH I’LL BE...
SIPPING on my new favourite matcha and mushroom tea (dirteaworld. com). TENDING to my thirsty summer body with antioxidant rich Rose Gold Radiance Body Oil (111skin.com). VISITING Siri Stolt-Nielsen’s show Restless at Christie’s (16-17 Oct, christies.com) and online, proceeds donated to Human Rights Watch. (siristoltnielsen.com)
ILLUSTRATION BY MEI MEI, @MEIMEI_2503
‘The DESIGN is elegantly pared-back with sci-fi QUIRKS... Like most things SCANDINAVIAN it’s icy COOL’
22 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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V I V IDUS
See the Movie at Hastens.com
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INTERVIEW
The RURBANIST
Jenson Button on feeling overwhelmed, failing in F1, and being stopped for speeding
What brings you joy? My family. Pulling down a visor
before the start of a race. A pint with friends.
What annoys you? People who don’t say please. Advice you’d give to your 15-year-old self? Don’t
FROM TOP: Jenson Button in Hackett London; Amazónico in Mayfair – ‘I had a great dinner with friends here the other night’; Jeremy Strong in Succession; Essential by Hackett London; uni nigiri
worry as much, you’re doing fine but I’d maybe ditch some of those clothes. What keeps you up at night? Lots of things. I definitely overthink things so it’s easy for something to play on my mind these days. What could you have been arrested for? It’s a bit of a cliché but once I was stopped for speeding and was doing over 140mph. Not good. Best life hack? Control the controllable. When you feel overwhelmed go for a walk and then just make a start on whatever the problem is. You’ll feel better instantly. Are you a country person or a city person? I’m a country person for dog walks to a country pub. Where do you go to escape? If I’m in LA then it’s a dog walk or the boxing gym. If we can get away then it will be to Palm Springs. Best way to make you smile? Ask my kids – they clearly know how! Tell us something no one else knows? I pride myself on being able to keep secrets. The book you’d wish you’d written? Any of the Harry Potters – so my kids would be proud when they read them. Your greatest triumph, and what did you learn from it? Winning the World Championship and
learning that it was all worth it.
Your greatest failure, and what did you learn from it? Hundreds of failures in F1 all helped teach me how
to win [the World Championship] in 2009.
What does sustainability mean to you? It means everyone
doing a little bit better and building from there. What does a life in balance mean to you? Spending as much time doing the things that bring you joy and being around those who can make you smile.
QUICK FIRE FAVOURITES... SCENT Essential from Hackett London. TV SHOW Succession. CHOCOLATE Toblerone. SONG Give it Away – Red Hot Chilli Peppers. DISH Uni nigiri. RESTAURANT Amazónico in Mayfair.
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH; © PETER KRAMER/HBO
Jenson Button is a Hackett London Brand Ambassador. hackett.com n
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BY APPOINTMENT TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN SUPPLIERS OF WALLPAPER, COLE & SON (WALLPAPERS) LTD. LONDON
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Impeccable taste every time Found in the world’s finest kitchens, Sub-Zero and Wolf appliances are designed to simplify and enhance your life from morning to night. Visit our Knightsbridge Showroom, 251 Brompton Rd, London, SW3 2EP SUBZ E R O -WO L F. CO.UK
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SACRED TREES
Maison de parfums d’intérieur eu.baobabcollection.com Baobab Collection supports the Cœur Vert foundation and baobab trees planting in Ivory Coast.
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STYLE Edited by Mariella Tandy
Strike a POSE
Ultra-luxe fabrics, delicious prints and feminine shapes take centre stage for Zimmermann’s autumn collection. The female-founded, ubersuccessful Australian fashion brand – which was recently bought for $1 billion – continues to be one of the fashion set’s favourites, beloved by the likes of Beyoncé, Meghan and Taylor Swift. Just the thing for making an entrance this season, then. zimmermann.com
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COLUMN
The STYLIST
Tiffanie Darke loves fashion – but not what it does to the planet. Here’s how to enjoy it without the guilt
F
One of Tiffanie’s five purchases this year has been these luxe silk cargo trousers from A Perfect Nomad. £320, aperfectnomad.com
ashion, my friends, is a journey. When Socrates declared a life’s work is to ‘know thyself’, he may have had my wardrobe in mind. Mountains of tried and failed trends have passed through over the years: ra-ra skirts, trilby hats, Joseph trouser suits, Louboutin stilettos, McQueen bumsters, tea dresses, PVC pants, endless leopard print overcoats. All versions of me I was trying on for size. I have worked in fashion for many years, as Editor in Chief of Sunday Times Style, and more recently for Harrods. Over those years I witnessed extraordinary moments of excess: dancing with Beyoncé in Donatella Versace’s villa, following Tom Ford through a rose petal strewn chateau, helping Karlie Kloss into Balenciaga couture. But the day I had to cycle across lockdown London to photograph Louis Vuitton handbags for a princess on her yacht in Thailand, only to return and bang saucepans for the NHS, changed everything. My all-you-can-eat fashion buffet was over. I took a course in sustainability and was shocked by the facts: fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world, after oil and gas. We discard as much as 92 million tonnes of clothing-related waste a year and our trajectory is horrifying: clothing consumption is set to double by 2030. What on earth to do? I love fashion – I don’t want to give it up! I love the thrill of the new, the identity switching, the empowerment, the beauty and the creativity simply getting dressed each day delivers. Fashion is an important part of who we are as human beings (Socrates would agree), so I needed to figure out a way to enjoy it without harming the planet. At first I thought it was just about buying better: I set up a shop, Agora at Six Senses Ibiza, championing brands made from natural or recycled fibres, designed timelessly and crafted by well-paid workers. Then a report came out from a climate think tank, the Hot or Cool Institute, that crunched the data and found that in order for us to hit the 2030 warming target of 1.5C, we need to limit our fashion purchases to just five new items a year. Wow – radical. But could it be done? Well, I’m trying, and I can tell you I’ve had more fun with fashion this year than throughout my entire career. I have been renting, exploring pre-loved, swapping, mending, altering, and the few things I have actually bought I treasure more than anything before. It turns out that the new rules of fashion are just as fun. Style, it turns out, is a journey. Not just fashion. n
THE NEW FA SHION RULE S WHAT’S ALLOWED? Lingerie (but don’t go mad), socks (but don’t go mad), renting or borrowing, swapping, alterations, mending and repair. WHAT’S NOT ALLOWED? Gifts (I’m afraid those count), too much secondhand (I’m allowing myself four preloved purchases) and more than five new items a year (but how we will treasure those five). 32 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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STYLE | News
The
EDIT The latest style stories. By Mariella Tandy SIMPLY BEE-AUTIFUL
Bee & Sons’ cardigans are made in Mansfield, England, from super soft mohair silk sourced in Italy. Its yarns are mulesing- and crueltyfree, 100 percent natural fibres that eventually can be recycled. Customers can also send old products back to be respun into fresh yarn. Cardigan, £275. beeandsons.com
AUTUMN’S SKIN SAVIOURS
FOR NINE MONTHS ONLY
Don’t buy maternity clothes – rent them instead. For The Creators is a rental platform curated around beautiful, well-made outfits from brands you wore before your pregnancy. The renting model means you won’t get bored, and will save items from going to landfill once your baby makes their grand entrance. Hatch maternity denim jacket, rent from £35. forthecreators.co
GET BLAZED
A great blazer is a foundation of any wardrobe and the White Company’s single-breasted black version has been designed to layer over pretty much anything and everything in your wardrobe, making it a true multi-tasking piece. Blazer, £219. thewhitecompany.com
1 Chantecaille Biolifting Eye Cream, £196. chantecaille.co.uk
2 Sensai The Cream, £610. sensai-cosmetics.com
TIME FOR A GLOW UP?
TEST OF TIME
3 Omorovicza Thermal Mud Cleanser, from £62. cultbeauty.com
Inspired by vintage silhouettes found in secondhand shops, stylist Bay Garnett has teamed up with Penelope Chilvers to create a collection of forever shoes, not based around trends but footwear you will love and wear forever. From £169, penelopechilvers.com
Beauty insiders are obsessed with Fatma Shaheen’s Glow Pen facials. Now the glossiest of skin days are easy to achieve at home with her line of stand-out Skin Design products, which include the cultfave Cherry Bomb peel. You can also top by its new counter in Selfridges for an in-person chat. skindesignlondon.com
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STYLE | News HORSING AROUND
The beautiful, wild white horses of the Camargue star in Stella McCartney’s AW23 campaign – alongside a certain model called Kendall Jenner. It tells the story of the brand’s ‘Horse Power’ collection, which was inspired by the transformational connections between humans and horses. ‘I knew this season’s Stella girl had to love horses as much as I do,’ said the designer. stellamccartney.com
THROWING SHAPES
Mulberry is going in all kinds of new directions this season, with inspired designs, fresh colour palettes and updated materials. Our pick? The all-new Iris Swirl bag, an asymmetric, classic-but-oh-so-cool take on the well-loved shoulder bag, £1,450. mulberry.com
LIVE AND LET PIE
To mark its tenth anniversary this autumn, Rosewood London is partnering with Anya Hindmarch. We’ll be stopping by The Pie Room to take away one of her ‘pies with eyes’ – matching keyring available on the Rosewood website. Then, on 13-14 October, Anya will be popping up in the hotel lobby with limitededition merch as well as much-loved pieces from Anya Hindmarch’s Labelled collection. Bag, £325. anyahindmarch.com; rosewoodhotels.com
THE SECOND COMING This autumn, fashion designer Savannah Miller is back with a bang with new brand Vivere. The name comes from the Italian verb meaning to ‘live,’ ‘last’ and ‘endure’, and it’ll focus on timeless, elevated wardrobe essentials, in an earthy colour palette. What the cool women in your life will be wearing this season. viverelondon.com and select John Lewis stores
IN THE DIARY
It’s (almost) that time of year again, so here’s one date for your diary: the Christmas Cotswold Fair, with glorious gift ideas over 220 curated stalls, from luxury local and British brands. 6-9 November, cotswoldfair.com 36 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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STYLE | Wardrobe
STAY GOLDEN Yellow isn’t just for summer, says Mariella Tandy
PRELOVED CHANEL @ OMNEQUE Charm necklace, £2,250. omneque.com
INVEST
RENT
TIFFANY & CO. Bean pendant, £6,800. tiffany.com
RACIL @ HURR COLLECTIVE Waistcoat, rent from £59. hurrcollective.com
HOLLAND COOPER Highbury Cape Coat, £679. hollandcooper.com
SHRIMPS @ BY ROTATION Coat, rent from £121. byrotation.com MIU MIU @ MWHQ Skirt, £210. mywardrobehq.com
JOHN SMEDLEY Top, £180. johnsmedley.com
SELF PORTRAIT @ FLANNELS Dress, rent from £53. flannelsrental.com
REALISATION PAR @ BY ROTATION Leopard print skirt, rent from £33. byrotation.com
ERDEM @ RELUXE Dress, £1,200. reluxefashion.com KALITA @ MWHQ North Star Pants, £200. mywardrobehq.com
MARINA RAPHAEL Evangelie bag, £860. marinaraphael.com
CELINE @ RELUXE Mules, £220. reluxe.com
MANOLO BLAHNIK Veralli ballet flats, £595. netaporter.com
LOEWE @ COCOON CLUB Puzzle bag, rent from £19. cocoon.club
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LEATHER FOOTWEAR | ACCESSORIES | CLOTHING FAIRFAXANDFAVOR.COM
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PR O M OT I O N
HEART TO HEART Recarlo jewellery tells a tale of passion, creativity and love
R
ecarlo is a luxury jewellery house that embodies the Italian spirit of authenticity, creativity and elegance. Founded in 1967 by Carlo Re in the beautiful region of Piedmont, in northern Italy, the brand is still owned and run by the second generation of the family, and has a rich history of tradition and local craftsmanship. Carlo Re’s aim was to create jewellery that reflects the eternal essence of beauty, and celebrates moments of love. Today, the home of Recarlo is still Piedmont, where its jewellers create exquisite pieces in the house’s signature white gold and natural diamonds in Valenza, the historic capital of jewellery making in Italy. The brand’s collections are a testament to the
Recarlo’s beautiful Anniversary Love Contrarié designs embody timeless glamour and elegance
region’s heritage and the passion of its artisans. Recarlo’s jewellery is known for its sparkling natural diamonds with deep romantic symbolism, selected by the house’s expert gemmologists. It is renowned for its modern yet timeless designs across all its collections, as well as its use of heartcut stones, which are especially apparent in its dazzling Anniversary Love collection. This range, which features solitaire rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets, is intended to celebrate the moments of love that shape your life: engagement, wedding, births, and anniversaries. The Anniversary Love collection is joined by a selection of exquisite, cutting-edge Contrarié designs, which feature heart-shaped diamonds in graduating sizes across a suite that includes a necklace, bracelet and ring. These pieces were designed to evoke romance and all the glamour of red carpet style. Recarlo’s rich history and dedication to fine diamonds means every single one of its pieces is a true work of art, reflecting its life-long commitment to quality and craftsmanship. The house celebrates the eternal beauty of diamonds, capturing the essence of romance and elegance through its timeless designs. See the whole collection at recarlo.com
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STYLE | Jewellery
TOUCH ME
CATCHING WAVES
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Ocean Collection, the House of Harry Winston has unveiled five new exquisite Ocean timepieces A highlight is the 36mm Ocean Biretrograde Diamond Waves Automatic, with a shimmering mother-of-pearl dial set with a splash of blue sapphires and white diamonds. £POA, harrywinston.com
Using sensuous materials such as red jasper and agate, the latest designs from By Pariah draws together a sense of materiality and love of untouched, raw materials. All pieces use 100 percent recycled 14ct gold or sterling silver certified by the RJC. From £280, bypariah.com
The Magpie
AS NATURE INTENDED These natural stones are totally unique
New season sparkles to thrill you. By Mariella Tandy
ON THE KNUCKLE
ISLAND HOPPING
You can taste the Italian sunshine in Buccellati’s new Special Edition collection of bangles, inspired by the colours, scents and flavours of Capri. The six bangles, all handmade by the jeweller’s master goldmiths, are available to buy in the two Buccellati boutiques on the island: one on Via Camerelle, and a new one in Hotel La Palma. £POA, buccellati.com
The new Knuckle collection from Annoushka is set to become the fashion crowd’s everyday go-to. Featuring oh-so-wearable modern takes on chain necklaces and hoop earrings, the unisex range is crafted from 14ct gold and handcrafted in Arezzo, Italy by master goldsmith Dino. The way the innovative ‘knuckle’ joint moves is truly organic and original, and could only be created by hand. From £495. annoushka.com
1 BY ALONA Blake tiger’s eye necklace, £135. matchesfashion.com 2 BROOKE GREGSON Gold, rhodochrosite and diamond necklace, £3,025. uk.brookegregson.com 3 RECARLO Heart-cut diamond earrings, £5,260. frostoflondon.co.uk 4 HANCOCKS 1.29ct emerald cut Colombian no oil emerald with ruby shoulders, £25,000. hancocks-london.com
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The Home of Country Clothing
SCOTLAND AT ITS VERY BEST WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM House of Bruar.indd 1
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STYLE | Men’s GO WILD IN THE COUNTRY
Oliver Brown’s AW23 collection utilises a palette of cool sage, moss and forest green tweeds plus heritage fabrics and creative craftsmanship to retell the classic story of British country style. oliverbrown.org.uk
BOND WITH BOND
Channel your inner 007 as Orlebar Brown continues its James Bond partnership with a chic capsule inspired by 1983’s Octopussy. Shirt, £295. 007store.com
Well Groomed The latest from the suave world of men’s style. By Matt Thomas
LET US SPRAY
Smell great, sleep well and get creative
SCOTTISH STYLINGS
The Scottish Trossachs provided the inspiration for Crockett & Jones’ latest collection of rugged footwear in high performance leathers designed to explore the great outdoors. From £460. crockettandjones.com
IN WITH THE OLD
Expect dapper dressing gowns in recycled fabrics, a repair station and bespoke embroidery services as New & Lingwood step into circular style with its innovative Re:New store, at 19 Savile Row. newandlingwood.com
OUTWARD BOUND
Don’t sacrifice style for practicality on your next adventure Edward Green Galway boots, £1,950. edwardgreen.com
Pantherella Hand-finished Selsey socks, £18.50. pantherella.com
Moncler Genius x Pharrell Williams Recycled nylon jacket, £1,845. moncler.com
Community Clothing Hand cut and sewn rugby shirt, £65. communityclothing.co.uk
1 BEAUTIFUL THINKING X STELLA MCCARTNEY Creativity enhancing room spray £39.99. beautifulthinking.co.uk 2 ETHEL LOVES Eden 644 fragrance, £24. ethelloves.me 3 WE ARE SL:PT Essential Pillow Spray, £13.99. weareslpt.co.uk 4 ROJA PARFUMS Elysium Eau Intense, £265. rojaparfums.com
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DAVID YARROW, MARSHLANDS
MADDOXGALLERY.COM DOWNLOAD OUR 2023 INVESTMENT GUIDE
W E ST B O U R N E G R OV E
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STYLE | Social Scene
Nadia Tavernier-Gustave, nurse from the Imperial College NHS Trust
Karen Howes, Taylor Howes and Greg Norman, Graphenstone
All About
Rupert Bevan, furniture designer
Elaine Sullivan, Sanderson Design Group
Yellow London’s Liv Wallers and Cath Beckett
INTERIORS The creative crowd met to toast Country & Town Interiors 2023
Sara Cosgrove, interior designer
T
Mark Tremlett, Naturalmat, and C&TH’s Pandora Lewis
his year’s edition of Country & Town Interiors was celebrated in style at Knightsbridge hot-spot Nolita Social. The creative crowd, including top names from the gardening and interior design industries, nibbled yummy canapés, quaffed champagne and gossiped in the subterranean venue filled with flowers by top florist Pulbrook and Gould. It was also an occasion to celebrate the inaugural C&TH Interiors Awards in acknowledgement of the magnificent efforts in an industry where so much good goes unheralded behind closed doors. Karen Howes of Taylor Howes accepted the Community award for Rest Nest, a charitable initiative in partnership with Imperial College NHS Trust whereby the studio turns staff rooms into cosy, welcoming spaces, while Ultimate Library received a runners up commendation. Mark Tremlett of Naturalmat was delighted to receive the Community award in recognition of its exceptional planet-friendly ethos, with Soho Lighting given a special mention. The Collaboration award went to Graphenstone for its project with the Ashmolean Museum; Zoffany was runner up. Specially designed Firefly lamps, created by Lladro for the occasion, were given to all the winners.
Jacu Strauss, Lore Group, and Amanda Rosenhagen, RE:Agency
Opal Coxall and Tayshan Hayden-Smith, Grow2Know
Marie Karlsson, Cole & Son
Sal Chebbah, Elysian Roots
Lucinda Milton, Buccellati and C&TH’s Tia Graham
C&TH’s Lucy Cleland and Aissa Gonzalez, Naturalmat
Juliette Byrne, interior designer, with husband, Harry Parshall
PHOTOS: MARCUS DAWES
Mark Tremlett, Naturalmat, and C&TH’s Carole Annett
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LOND ON — 75 JER MYN STREE T PARIS — 199 BIS BD.ST -GER MAIN EDWARD GREEN .COM
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HEALTH &
WELLBEING Quite a STRETCH
PHOTO: © INSKIP & DOE
Taking care of joint and muscle health is an essential part of future-proofing your body. Regular movement, a dose of Vitamin D, and a stretch and strengthening routine are some of the habits we discuss on page 52. If you need help implementing lifestyle changes, The Yoga Class retreats (theyogaclass.co) combine the body-nurturing practices you need to maintain mobility.
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Notes
The
SCOOP
For mind and body goals, Bodyspace has you covered, says Charlotte Cole SPACE ATTACK
I might have discovered London’s most exclusive gym. But that’s not the most exciting part: the best bit is that it has the kindest, nicest, most professional staff I’ve come across on my gym journey thus far. But, of course, ‘gym’ doesn’t do it justice: it has the rather lofty title ‘lifestyle performance club’… which, when translated, means its crack team can help get you match fit, head-spaced or just on plain functional physical and mental form – your lifestyle desire is its command. The space, deep in the bowels of a well-heeled Knightsbridge street – and now with a splashy new outpost in the nearby Mandarin Oriental hotel – is as calm and gorgeous as you might imagine. Here, you’ll meet lifestyle performance director Tom Cheeseman to discuss your goals – whether it’s to have you running a marathon for your 70th, a mental health overhaul, or to bring movement back into your routine. Everything is done on a scientifically proven basis so expect the need to track baselines, discuss nutrition, sleep, health and fitness concerns in-depth, so this incredible team can deliver what it promises. It will be worth it, I promise. body-space.co.uk
PUT A RING ON IT
Move over smartwatches – I much prefer my new gold Oura ring, which doubles up as something to fiddle with when I’m feeling anxious. Though, according to my stats, I’m hitting some pretty good health goals… But let’s step it back a bit. As we become increasingly app-enabled humans, Oura is the latest iteration of wearable tech ready to show you how you’re tracking healthwise. Delivering three daily scores to your phone – Sleep, Readiness and Activity, these further break down into more nuanced information such as how much REM sleep you’re getting, or how high or low your resting heart rate was during the night or whether you’re meeting your daily activity goals. A lower readiness score gently urges you to take it easy for the day, but when you’re hitting the 90s, you’re in top form. I’m definitely behind putting this ring on it. From £280. ouraring.com
WHAT PRICE BEAUTY?
A staggering 30,000 people were on the waitlist for fellow British B Corp lifestyle brand Lyma’s first skincare range when it launched this summer, seemingly undeterred by the price of £495 for two products that would last a month. It’s not the most expensive beauty product on the market though. If your wallet isn’t feeling the cost of living crisis, you could stock up on La Prairie’s Platinum Rare Cellular Night Elixir, for a cool £1,155 – or how about Revive’s Peau Magnifique Serum, a mere £580 for 30ml? Beauty, it seems, is not priceless. lyma.life 50 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Wellness
BODY & SOUL
Limber up and look after your mobility, muscle and joint health, says Camilla Hewitt
W
hether you have aches and pains from sitting too much or you’re experiencing inflexibility from tight muscles, we can all be kinder to our bodies. Osteopath Nadia Alibhai tells us, ‘Gentle movements are important, such as swinging your leg or looking over your shoulder. I love using the phrase, “motion is lotion”: each time you move, the synovial fluid in your joints helps to lubricate and make them mobile, so the more you move, the better your joints move.’ (nadiatheosteopath.com) If you favour one form of exercise, like running, diversifying your movement can stabilise your body against repetitive damage. Nadia says, ‘It allows the joints to move through different ranges, using more muscle groups, enabling the joint to be more agile and versatile. If you use the same muscles repeatedly, you run the risk of developing an overuse injury, as your body needs adequate rest.’ She also recommends staying on top of your supplement routine. ‘My go-tos for joint care are collagen, magnesium, curcumin, and vitamin D. We need vitamin D for our bone health as well as our mood. When supplementing, I prefer sprays to tablets, as they are absorbed quicker into the blood stream. Vitamin D3 combined with vitamin K2 promotes the absorption of calcium to aid healthy bones and joints. Plus, consume collagen-rich foods such as beef bone broth, skin-on chicken, sardines, berries, and broccoli.’ Breathwork can be beneficial for maintaining mobility as well as muscle and joint health. Practitioner Richie Norton explains why: firstly, deep breathing techniques increase the oxygen supply to the muscles and joints, promoting tissue repair and reducing the risk of pain and inflammation. Secondly, controlled breathing activates the parasympathetic nervous system, reducing stress and tension that can contribute to muscle tightness and pain. What’s more, focused breathing enhances blood flow, which delivers vital nutrients and removes waste products, aids in muscle recovery, and reduces discomfort. And finally, proper breathing engages the diaphragm, which helps stabilise the core by supporting the spine and reducing the risk of muscular imbalances and associated pain. (@richienorton_) n
Osteopath Nadia Alibhai with a patient
IN GOOD FORM
Support optimum bone and muscle health
ANOTHER PLACE, THE LAKE
BOOK IT: From £390 B&B. another.place
1 Borough Broth Beef, from £4.92. boroughbroth.co.uk 2 The Nue Co Magnesium Ease, £20. thenueco.com 3 Wild Nutrition Bone + Muscle Support, £30. wildnutrition.com 4 Bala Hourglass Foam Roller, £44. freepeople.com
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Improve posture and gain flexibility under the guidance of pilates teacher Marina Huxley at Another Place, The Lake. The Ullswater hotel offers a two-night retreat with four hour-long classes and six 30-minute workshops that focus on everything from healthy hips to spine mobility. Marina tells us, ‘Pilates helps to strengthen the deep core muscles—not just the abdominals but also the muscles that support the spine. Keeping these important postural muscles strong can be a game changer if you have back pain.’ You can also head off to explore the fells on foot, and swim, kayak, or paddle board on the lake. 52 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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PR O M OT I O N
MEET THE GAMECHANGER This major scientific breakthrough reverses signs of skin ageing
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
F
or 35 years, celebrated Italian scientist Dr Francesca Ferri – Irene Forte’s Scientific Director – has been researching the medical use of plant-derived actives when treating dermatological conditions. Her work has culminated in a new type of serum that visibly reduces signs of skin ageing. Since her student days, she has been especially fascinated by the hormone melatonin and, in particular, its counterpart in plants: phytomelatonin. This fascination has turned into a lifetime’s work to understand the role and benefits of phytomelatonin, and how it can be used to treat dermatological conditions. Since the discover y of phytomelatonin in 1993, research has shown that it has a fundamental role in plant cells, most notably promoting growth, responding to stressors (such as viruses and UV radiation), delaying biological ageing and regulating oxidative processes. Dr Ferri’s work, with her team at the University of Calabria, has shown the same sort of
Irene Forte (right) with Dr Francesca Ferri
Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum, £225. ireneforteskincare.co.uk
fundamental regulatory activity in human skin cells. In recognition of this work, Dr Ferri has been awarded the Italian equivalent of a knighthood for research into the effect of phytomelatonin on the mediators of skin ageing. Together with Dr Ferri, Irene Forte has developed this key ingredient into a brand new serum: Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum. This rigorously researched and tested new skincare superhero promises visibly younger skin. Among other effects, wrinkle depth, brown spots and pore visibility showed significant decreases after just four weeks. Remarkably, Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum has been shown in clinical trials to not only have a profound effect on multiple aspects of visible skin ageing, but to achieve these effects while even calming and soothing the skin. Indeed in the trials, the Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum helped to significantly decrease red and blemished areas, and dermatological testing has even approved this serum for sensitive skin. The serum is packaged in glass made up of 31 percent postindustrial recycled glass. The box and its liner are made out of 100 percent recycled fibres.
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Review Want to shape and sculpt those tricky areas? Airsculpt is the revolutionary treatment set to replace liposuction
BODY LANGUAGE
What is Airsculpt body contouring – and should I be doing it? asks Olivia Falcon
F
or the last ten years, Hollywood’s A-list has been for tightening loose skin as the speed of the drilling motion also creates heat which stimulates collagen and elastin which in turn tightens the skin in the discreetly visiting US cosmetic surgeon Dr Aaron Rollins at his clinics in Beverly Hills and Miami, for vectors where the fat has been removed, effectively shrink wrapping the body. Airsculpt, a super-precise body contouring treatment Dr Rollins has also nixed the need for scalpels, needles or stitches and, that removes unwanted body fat with minimum rather than being sedated, the patient is awake throughout the procedure. The treatment areas are numbed using a needle-free jet injector, which downtime or fuss. Now Airsculpt has arrived in the UK at the beautifully designed Elite Body Sculpture clinic on pushes topical anaesthetic fluid through pores. Instead of cutting, a small Harley Street – and the question is, how can it work for us civilians? two-millimetre-wide incision is created with a biopsy punch tool and a local anaesthetic solution is inserted through this entry point to numb the fat cells. A move on from traditional liposuction, Dr Rollins struck on the idea of Airsculpt while brushing his teeth. ‘I was using an electric toothbrush,’ It heals naturally leaving a small mark the size of a freckle. Most patients he explains, ‘and noticed how much more efficiently it cleaned return to work after 48 hours and must wear a compression garments, my teeth and I wondered if I could apply this spin technology to but can expect to see instant results that just get better with time, liposuction.’ Dr Rollins, who has been performing body contouring peaking around three months post-procedure. procedures for over 15 years, says ‘Liposuction is barbaric – it’s Airsculpt can treat everything from double chins and bra rolls to basically a cheese grater on a stick, that scrapes away fat cells but in bingo wings, flanks, thighs and ankles. The clinic also offers fat transfer treatments, repositioning the harvested fat into areas inexperienced hands can also grate on muscles and the dermis such as the breasts, buttocks or hips for a more hourglass causing bleeding, bruising, pain and uneven results.’ Airsculpt, by comparison, uses a tiny canula that vibrates in silhouette. This is not about weightloss but more about a corkscrew motion about 1,000 times a minute, drilling tiny reclaiming the contours you had before middle-aged holes into the fat layer and gently sucking out fat cells, leaving bloat set in. Needle-free innovator all skin structures in place. It’s ideal for people struggling to shift Dr Aaron Rollins those fat pockets no amount of exercise can lift. It’s also great From £7,000, uk.elitebodysculpture.com n
This clever setting mist can be used as a primer, hydrator, setting spray and skin protector to help create a fresh and radiant complexion all day long. It’s effective both under and over make-up. By Terry Hyaluronic Glow Setting Mist, £35. byterry.com
2
CLEANSE
Swap the soap for Japan’s newest phytotherapy range, which uses healing plant extracts grown in Japan without pesticides, to cleanse skin without drying it out. Waphyto Body Wash Nurture, £29. waphyto.com
3
POLISH
For the best smoothing results try this polish that pairs recycled coffee grounds and organic oat milk with a blend of spearmint, rosemary and eucalyptus. Neom Super Shower Power Body Polish, £28. neomorganics.com
4
SOOTHE
This contains oils from the Hinoki tree, which have been found to emit compounds that have been proven to reduce stress, boost the immune system and lift one’s mood. Tatcha Hinoki Body Milk, £50. tatcha.co.uk
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
1
MIST
BATHROOM BLISS
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PR O M OT I O N
INVEST IN YOUR HEALTH
Put your health and wellbeing first with HOOKE, a new kind of health club
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here’s simply nothing as important as your health. This is why new health service and members’ club HOOKE is ushering in a groundbreaking era of advanced personalised and preventative healthcare in the UK, with no waiting lists and first-class care in luxurious surroundings in an exquisite Mayfair setting. Named after the 17th-century English polymath, Robert Hooke, who coined the term ‘cell’ for the living forms seen under his microscope, HOOKE offers its members the latest in biology, medicine, psychology, and data science, so they can put their health first. ‘Make your later years the happiest, healthiest and most productive of your life,’ says Lev Mikheev, founder of HOOKE. ‘We are all infinitely more capable than we appear.’ HOOKE is a first-of-its-kind service, offering one of the world’s most advanced health screenings alongside access to an expert team of globally renowned doctors and scientists. It also gives its clients a personalised, evolving longevity plan, to ensure health goals are achieved and maintained. Each member’s journey begins with a Health Investigation. A one-to-one appointment with HOOKE’s Dr David
HOOKE offers a whole-new approach to optimising your health
Porter identifies concerns and goals, before a series of assessments and scans with each member of HOOKE’s multidisciplinary team. These include diagnostic screening, whole genome sequencing, and assessment of fitness, musculoskeletal condition, nutrition, cognitive function and emotional wellbeing. Once all results have been collated, the team undertakes a full review, synthesising the data and identifying priority areas for action. In particular, the Health Investigation looks for signs of agerelated conditions such as arthritis, cancer, dementia, autoimmune diseases, and cardiovascular disease, as well as many more. 1 PERFORMANCE After the initial Health MEMBERSHIP Six-month sports, Investigation, HOOKE offers fitness and performance three tiers of membership focused programme. – Performance, Healthspan 2 HEALTHSPAN and Healthspan+ – which MEMBERSHIP Popular annual are all guided by experts to programme comprising harness the body’s natural one Health Investigation, on-demand capacity for regeneration consultations, and and repair. They all include wraparound support. a seven- days-a-week 3 HEALTHSPAN+ concierge support for MEMBERSHIP Elevated annual coordinating investigations, support comprising referrals, prescriptions two Health Investigations; further and more, all conducted assessments and with utmost discretion screening based on recommendations; and security.
JOIN TODAY
ongoing wraparound support; unlimited consultations; and a personalised longevity programme designed by the Scientific Advisory Board.
Health Investigation, £15,000. Annual health memberships from £22,000. hooke.london
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Brigid Moss on the innovative new clinic that’s preventing and reversing hair loss
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
PUT A LID ON IT
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Hair | HEALTH & WELLBEING
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he best expression of how much our hair affects our emotions comes from Fleabag: ‘Hair is everything. We wish it wasn’t so we could actually think about something else occasionally. But it is. It’s the difference between a good day and a bad day…’ If you’re losing your hair, you’ll know that bad day can turn into feeling bad all of the time. That’s why the market for hair transplants is slated to be worth more than $4bn globally by 2028. But transplants have a significant downside. For the operation even to be possible, a good amount of hair in the donor or vascularised area is needed. This is the area where people don’t lose hair; if you draw a line from ear to ear, that’s the hair below. If you’re thinning all over, you simply don’t have enough hair to move. ‘Once the roots are gone, nothing will bring them back,’ says Amy Meshkati, founder of the Meshkati Hair Clinic in Belgravia. ‘We cannot do magic.’ But in fact, she can, and she does. Amy has invented a technique, Nanoprocedure, which gives a full head of hair to people who do not have enough up top for a transplant. If a wig is like shopping on the high street, non-surgical Nanoprocedure is couture. It comes with couture prices, too, starting from £65,000. Which seems stratospheric, until you discover the procedure takes three to four days in the clinic, 10am to 6pm. For that you get a head of hair that’s guaranteed for ten years, which you can treat as your own: shower, swim, sauna, work out and go out in the wind. Amy began studying hair loss during her PhD in biomedical engineering. She opened her first clinic in Paris in 1985 and she still has clients from that era who come to see her in London. Based in a house on Grosvenor Street, visitors enter the clinic via a terribly grand wood panelled lobby, but the treatment rooms are a big contrast: modernised with white walls and high ceilings. During the first consultation, Amy collects samples of hair. These are sent to the lab in Paris, where the hair is tested to source new hair that’s an exact match of colour, quality and texture. This includes what could be called a holiday test – adding humidity. ‘When you go to the seaside and your hair goes curly, your additional hair should do the same,’ Amy says. The idea is not to transform your hair; the watchword is natural. ‘You don’t want to look into the mirror and suddenly your reflection doesn’t look like you,’ she says. Subtle tweaks can be requested;
perhaps a little more density, a little straighter or wavier. Lots of clients request less grey. The preparation of the additional hair in the Paris lab takes 800 hours. Then comes the treatment itself. Amy selects specific hairs with strong roots in the vascularised area to be the anchor hairs. At the base, she flattens a dot of titanium alloy, the size of a tiny nail head, that also contains some new, additional hairs. She puts in about 25 to 30 of these ‘nano points’, the scaffolding for the new hair. Then she builds up the new head of hair by fixing new strands between the existing hairs, one by one. Because the hair growth cycle is between three to six years, clients need a maintenance check-up three to four times a year to refix any anchoring hairs that have grown out. ‘It doesn’t matter if a client keeps losing more hair. I can adjust during check-ups,’ says Amy. And your own hair can continue to grow normally between the additional hair. In 1995, Amy invented Chemosoft, a similar procedure for help during chemotherapy. ‘People often say the worst thing about cancer is losing their hair, maybe because it’s the only exterior sign of their treatment,’ she says. If your hair loss becomes total, you can still keep the new hair, as Amy created a way to fix the points of attachment using adhesive. The result is strands that feels like your own, and that you can keep in until your biological hair has grown back. One client, Frances says: ‘It’s not just about vanity, for me. It was about being normal, living as normal a life as I could again and being able to look at myself without crying.’ As well as these two signature treatments, the clinic provides a full service for hair loss, including transplants. ‘At Meshkati, we are able to solve hair loss at any stage. Of course, it’s better if people come at an earlier stage,’ says Amy. She has a lab at the clinic where she continues her research. She’s developed a hair support supplement, Hair Full Cycle, with 21 ingredients. ‘The idea was to work out what leads to disruption of the anagen (growing) phase of the hair and stabilise it.’ Amy has also developed a new serum to stimulate hair growth, and two mesotherapy treatments that do the same; one is specifically for before and after hair transplants. Currently, she’s working with research scientists on a revolutionary piece of hair technology: a transplant that won’t require nearly as much hair in the donor site. ‘I’m so happy to do something that makes a difference to people,’ she says. meshkati.co.uk n
E XPERT ADVICE FROM AMY ME SHK ATI
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
1 Use a mild shampoo that’s free from harsh chemicals, including sodium laureth sulfate (SLS). 2 Aloe vera gel keeps sebum under control and soothes an itchy scalp. Rub aloe vera into your scalp and hair and let it penetrate your hair follicles. After 15-30 minutes, rinse with a mild shampoo. 3 Protect your hair from UV, which can dry out your hair but also your scalp. 4 Eat food for healthy hair: eggs, green, leafy vegetables, citrus fruits, nuts and seeds, carrots, whole grains, soybeans, avocado, and cinnamon. September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 57
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Beauty Dilemma
Blonde AMBITION
MARIA NILA Colour Refresh in Pearl Silver, £24.50. sallybeauty.com
Nathalie Eleni on how to send your locks to blonde rehab
K18 HAIR Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask, £30. harrods.com
LA BONNE BROSSE N.O1 The Universal Hair Care Brush, £128. libertylondon.com
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ny blonde knows the addictive cycle of colouring. What can start as a few face-framing highlights can over time develop, in more ways than one, to full-scalp bleach, when you just want to go blonder and blonder. As new roots appear, the cycle continues. If you are having a blonde crisis, fear not; here’s how to keep your hair looking happy and healthy. First up: find your most flattering shade. People with skin with a cool undertone and pale eyes suit ashy, sandy and platinum hues, while warm undertones look best with more honey, golden and blonde tones. For grey hair, go for platinum or ash-toned highlights. What if your hair can’t take any more bleaching?
‘A demi-permanent salon range, such as Shades EQ , is a great way to blend your roots or take your blonde darker,’ says hair colourist Louisa at Jo Hansford Salon Mayfair, where healthy and shiny blonde is the signature look. ‘It has lift but changes the tone and leaves a mirror-like shine on hair.’ (johansford.com) Keep hair in good condition. Never brush or tug at your hair when it’s wet; use a wide-tooth comb or Tangle Teaser. If your hair is very knotted, start at the tip and gently working upwards to the root. This prevents over-stretching and snapping delicate hair. A boar bristle hairbrush helps prevent hair breakage, spread natural oils in the hair and minimise frizz – look for an ethically sourced one.
KÉRASTASE Blond Absolu Cicaplasme Treatment, £33.70. lookfantastic.com
Yes, dyed hair can stay hydrated and smooth.
ADVANCED NUTRITION PROGRAMME Skin Ultimate supplements for hair and skin, £75. advancednutritionprogramme.com CURRENTBODY Skin LED Hair Regrowth Device, £650. currentbody.com
GHD Platinum+ Hair Straightener in Pink Peach, £239. ghdhair.com
ZUVI Halo Hair Dryer, £369. zuvilife.com
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
Michaela Galvin, a hair stylist at Jo Hansford, says: ‘For home care, a mild keratin treatment for blonde hair really makes a difference, as it will help to put the broken bonds back into the hair.’ A professional keratin blow dry treatment takes this one step further – it will add shine and strength to your hair giving it a glossy finish and drastically reducing blow dry time. (From £315, with Michaela at Jo Hansford Salon). On very dry and overly bleached her, Michaela recommends to use a hydration mask two-three times per week to get moisture back. Always look for sulphate free options. How to style dyed hair? Use a thermal protector, a lower heat setting, and invest in tools with added technology to help prevent overheating hair. Let hair air dry first to cut down the time you use a hairdryer. Try velcro rollers instead of hot rollers. The healthier your hair becomes, the less it needs heat styling to eliminate frizz. Finally, trimming hair every six weeks may sound old fashioned, but it really does help to prevent split ends, and gives hair a fuller and healthier look and feel. n
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E ’R U TED YO VI IN
JOIN US ON WEDNESDAY 15 NOVEMBER 2023 AT THE FABULOUS LE MANOIR AUX QUAT'SAISONS, A BELMOND HOTEL, OXFORDSHIRE FOR...
JOURNEY TO
ZERO IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
... An unforgettable day with RAYMOND BLANC live in conversation, a CHAMPAGNE reception, a delicious vegan LUNCH, a COOKERY DEMO, a PRIVATE GARDEN TOUR, thought-provoking conversations with SPECIAL GUESTS around how luxury and sustainability must go hand-in-glove, plus a luxury GOODIE BAG filled with ethical gifts to take home afterwards.
Scan to book your tickets, to secure your spot or visit: bit.ly/44tAG9H
Tickets are £275 and there are only 40 spots available, so don’t miss out!
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HEALTH & WELLBEING | Beauty
IN MY MAKE-UP BAG
Nathalie Eleni puts semipermanent eyeliner to the test
E
xpertly applied eyeliner tattoo enhances both eyes and lashes by defining the lash line so eyelashes look thicker and more prominent. Unlike make-up, where precision eyeliner can depend on luck as much as skill and doesn’t always stay where it’s meant to, the semi-permanent version, when applied under expert hands, will remain perfect for over a year. There is only one place I would go for this treatment: Tracie Giles in Knightsbridge (I had my lips and brows done there over eight years ago and have been going for top-ups every 12-18 months ever since). The team there are experts in this technique; they customise the look and colour of every treatment
they do, from a simple lash enhancer to a complete and glamorous eyeliner look. After a consultation (new clients will need a patch test prior to the treatment), artist Hema drew the line along my lashes so I could see how the finished result would look. She understood I wanted something natural for subtle enhancement. Cream was applied along my lash line and left for 20 mins to numb the area thoroughly. The following treatment was fast and pain-free, and although the sound and sensation of the tattoo pen felt strange around the eye area, I quickly got used to it, and it really didn’t hurt at all. I had minimal swelling after the treatment, which went down after a few hours. The healing process was straightforward: no mascara for seven days afterwards and keep the area clean. I’m so happy with the results. The treatment gives you that perfect defining line along your lashes (like when you first get a lash tint) and works wonders to enhance the eye area naturally. From £350, top-ups are required every 12-18 months. traciegiles.co.uk n
THE BEAUTY GLOSSARY TRENDING TERM: SKIN STREAMING
De-clutter your routine with Skin Streaming – essentially skinimalism at its simplest. The term means streamlining your routine using multi-tasking products, for example an antioxidant serum that also contains peptides and hydrators (HydroPeptide Power Serum, £124. hydropeptide.co.uk), a moisturising SPF (Image Prevention+, SPF50. imageskincare.co.uk), and gently exfoliating cleansing products (Intuisse Active NAD+ Cleansing Lotion, £44. intuisse.com). Quality over quantity. Head to countryandtownhouse.com to see how I do it.
1 Les Fille En Rouge La Palette Visage, £50. rouje.com 2 Dior L’Or de J’Adore, £144. dior.com 3 Chantecaille Rose de Mai Eye Lift, £132. chantecaille.com 4 Celltweet Sunshine Cushion SPF 50, £92. theeditorslist.co.uk 5 By Far Daydream of Someone I Used to Know Set, £180. selfridges.com
PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES
Tried & TESTED
Choose between a subtle enhancement or a statement eyeliner look
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charity
Founded by Arizona Muse
@dirt.charity
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CULTURE Play Time ISN’T OVER
PHOTOS: © OLGA TREIVAS
A new installation at the Design Museum invites visitors to touch, climb and enjoy a collection of wooden sculptures that are dispersed inside and outside the gallery space. The experience has been created by performance artist Fyodor Pavlov-Andreevich to challenge our understanding of furniture design, and how we interact with it. 26 Sept to 29 Oct, designmuseum.org
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CULTURE | What’s On
THE CULTURAL CALENDAR
Bet you never expected Black Sabbath on this list, says Tessa Dunthorne
BAD-ASS BALLET DRESSAGE FOR SUCCESSAGE
Trot along to Cornbury House to catch a glimpse of some spectacular equine action. The annual eventing competition showcases the finest riders in the country as they square off in dressage, cross country and show jumping against the backdrop of this sprawling estate. 6-10 September, cornburyhousehorsetrials.co.uk
Black Sabbath: The Ballet takes on the legacy of the ultimate heavy metal band with help from the Birmingham Royal Ballet. Headbanging while en pointe? We’re ready for our entrance. Birmingham, 23 Sept to 30 Oct; Plymouth & London, various dates. brb.org.uk
IT’S ALL GUCCI
ZERO IN ON RAYMOND
Join C&TH and Raymond Blanc for Journey to Zero, a sparkling day at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saison, a Belmond Hotel, featuring leading voices on sustainability + much more. 15 Nov, tickets at countryandtownhouse.com
SOMETHING (ABSOLUTELY) WICKED
Double, double toil and trouble; was there ever such a enduringly toxic fable? Poldark’s Max Bennett takes on the titular role of Macbeth at the Globe this autumn, with a new reimagining of the timeless tale of ambition and revenge to round off the theatre’s Shakespeare season. Until 28 Oct, shakespearesglobe.com
NOVEL TIME
A festival for readers and thinkers – Zadie Smith, Tom Holland, Mary Beard and Maggie O’Farrell are all headline speakers at the Cliveden Literary Festival 2023. Until 1 October, clivedenliteraryfestival.org
PHOTOS: © PEROU; © JOHAN PERSSON
Fresh from Shanghai, Gucci Cosmos is landing in London. The travelling exhibition was pulled together by artist Es Devlin, and carries you through 102-years-plus of the fashion house’s history, decades of haute couture and its most beloved designs. 11 Oct to 31 Dec, gucci.com
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The Critical LIST
Watch, read, listen
A retired Poirot gets his detective hat on once again in A Haunting in Venice, the latest Agatha Christie film based on her 1969 novel Hallowe’en Party. Out 15 September
FILM
THE C&TH GUIDE TO…
LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL What to expect from this visual feast of a festival
L PHOTOS: © PEROU; © JOHAN PERSSON
ondon is still the ‘design capital of the world’, asserts its annual festival, a title bestowed on it by the New York Times in 2012. There’s no doubt that the construction, creative design and artistic industries of our city have faced challenges over the years though, be it caused by the pandemic or our conscious uncoupling from the EU. But the London Design Festival seeks to challenge anyone who might suggest that the design scene here has not quite rebounded to its former glory. It’s easy to believe – the breadth of skill and artistry in this city remains gloriously more vital than ever. THE STORY BEHIND THE DESIGN Born in the early Noughties, and conceived by Sir John Sorrell and Ben Evans CBE, London Design Festival is a sprawling juggernaut of events, exhibitions and installations dotted around the entire city. It’s funded by the Mayor of London (among others) and celebrates the capital’s bounty of design and designers alike. HOW DO I FIND MY WAY AROUND? The festival is typically made up of over 300 exhibitors, across the capital. Don’t be buried by choice – Bloomberg Connects offers a free digital guide to the festival straight from your phone, including maps and commentary that will give you the know-how and the what’swhat – and the where-where.
Brie Larson stars as zealous scientist Elizabeth Zott in Lessons In Chemistry, Apple TV’s adaptation of the heartwarming bestseller by Bonnie Garmus. Out 13 October
TV
Material Matters explores how we can better use our vital resources
WHAT SHOULD I SEE? We’re excited for the return of Material Matters, which brings together brands and makers in an exploration of how materials influence our lives and how we can reach a truly circular economy with our vital resources. Expect to spot us donning the VR goggles, too, at Maya: The Birth of a Superhero, an immersive exhibition which follows an ordinary girl as she gets her period for the first time – alongside unexpected superpowers. We’re also curious about Th e Fundamentals of Caring, an interactive exhibition that takes a playful poke at the hotel’s interior design and curates sensory experiences that you can sniff, pick up and drink from. 16-24 Sept, londondesignfestival.com
Fleabag’s Andrew Scott is single-handedly taking on the entire cast of Chekhov’s 1898 classic Uncle Vanya in a new one-man production, arriving in the West End this autumn following a preview at Richmond Theatre. 15 Sept to 21 Oct
THEATRE Zadie Smith ventures into new territory with her first ever historical novel, The Fraud, set against the backdrop of a real-life legal trial that divided Victorian England. Out 7 September
BOOK
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CULTURE | What’s On
PREVIEW
Ellie Smith looks forward to this autumn’s star-studded West End must-see, Lyonesse
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ily James and Kristin Scott Thomas starred alongside one another in the Netflix adaptation of Daphne du Maurier’s Rebecca, released in 2020. Now they’re reuniting, this time in the West End for a brand-new play: Lyonesse, coming to the Harold Pinter theatre this autumn. Written by Penelope Skinner, the play follows reclusive actor Elaine (Kristin), who, after going off the radar for 30 years, is ready to make her comeback. She has a story to tell, and invites young film executive Kate (Lily) to help plot her return. It’s being described by Skinner as a ‘flipped’ revenge tragedy – rather than focusing on the person carrying out the revenge, it’s about
the indivdual being targeted. Lyonesse is being directed by Ian Rickson, whose West End credits include a production of Jez Butterworth's smash hit Jerusalem. Lyonesse will be a reunion, too, for Rickson and Scott Thomas, who worked together on the Oscarwinning 2007 Royal Court adaptation of The Seagull. ‘Working with Ian is one of the great joys of my professional life’ said Kristin. ‘And a new play is such an adventure. Penelope Skinner’s writing had me gripped from the first page. I love the questions the story raises.’ 17 October to 23 December, haroldpintertheatre.co.uk
MY Cultural Life Stephen Odubola is a new face in the kitchen in the BBC's Boiling Point...
Kristin Scott Thomas and Lily James star in new revenge thriller Lyonesse
see life after the original film, six months on. Because it’s set in a kitchen, everything is very fast paced – you’ll see the point where it gets really, really tense. We had a chef consultant for the show… Ellis Barrie, who does TV shows and has his own restaurant. He told us how to place our hands, how to cut properly, the trays we need to use, etcetera. I ended up learning a lot – it’s almost stuck with me, even at home. I'm not only an actor... I love writing. I started work on a short film in 2020, after George Floyd’s death. A picture at the time inspired me: two houses, one on fire, with the [ironic] caption ‘All Lives Matter’. It’s not out yet because I'm a perfectionist! I'm tuning into... Silo, and I just watched Idris Elba’s Hijack. I'm loving Apple TV at the moment. I'm most looking forward to seeing... My friend [Michael Ward]’s play, A Mirror at the Almeida (runs until 23 September, almeida.co.uk). I’m really excited – it’s his theatre debut. My ultimate cultural recommendation… The BFI London Film Festival (4-15 October, whatson.bfi.org.uk). Gassed Up, another film I’m in, will show at it. My dream role… Isn’t set. I’m open to a lot of things. I just want to be challenged – whether I’m a carpenter, or a police officer, or a teacher or something completely different. I let loose… By travelling. I just came back from a trip to Barcelona for my friend’s birthday. Nice weather, nice beaches... What’s life if you just stay in London, you know? Boiling Point will air on BBC iPlayer in early October. bbc.co.uk
PHOTOS: © MICHAEL WHARLEY; © AKA; © KIRK TRUMAN; STYLIST: SARAH-ROSE HARRISON; LAURAINE BAILEY
Boiling Point is… A follow-on from the film [from 2021]. You
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CULTURE | Books
SILK, ART AND WINE Richard Hopton reviews three histories with a difference
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SILK by Aarathi Prasad
Humanity has used silk for at least 5,500 years. Nowadays, the word suggests luxury and opulence, the silk dressing gown, silk suits, silk curtains, silk upholstery, the preserve of haute couture but, as Aarathi Prasad writes, ‘the knowledge and use of silk, in all its wonderful varieties, is a global story’; it is ‘an ancient material with a surprisingly technological future’. The best-known source of silk is Bombyx mori, the domesticated silk moth, but it also derives from other creatures, including spiders and marine bivalves, the source of sea silk. Silk is a fascinating book, part exploration of the different types of silk, part history of the naturalists who studied the creatures that produce the material, and part an examination of the myriad uses, ancient and modern, to which it can be put. William Collins, £22
2
VENICE: CITY OF PICTURES by Martin Gayford
The story of Venice and the city’s art history has been told many times. Bellini, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese, Canaletto, Guardi, and Tiepolo are the laurel-crowned heads in the pantheon of Venetian artists, acknowledged masters of Venice’s Golden Age. Martin Gayford writes that ‘Venice has been interwoven into my life for decades’ and his new book brings its art history right up to date with work by Chris Ofili and Paula Rego, recently exhibited at the Venice Biennale, and Banksy. Gayford’s central contention in this engaging, sumptuously illustrated book is that there is a continuing artistic relationship between Venice’s past and her present, or as he puts it: ‘A twenty-firstcentury video artist echoes Tiepolo and so alters our response to his paintings’. This is the present influencing the past and vice versa, living history. Thames & Hudson, £30
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VINES IN A COLD CLIMATE by Henry Jeff reys
This entertaining, informative book shows ‘how English wine went from a joke to world class in 30 years.’ It’s both a history of how the English wine industry has grown from its amateurish beginnings into a multi-million pound business and a treasure chest of anecdote, offering lively portraits of the individuals involved and their vineyards. In allowing the vineyard owners and winemakers speak for themselves, Jeffreys reveals the optimism, ambition, and determination which underpin their efforts but also their diverse views on their industry. The book has much to say about the difficulties of viticulture and making wine in England but also about the seemingly endless ingenuity with which producers tackle these problems. ‘England’s wine,’ he concludes, ‘as befits an industry that is barely 50 years old, is very much a work in progress.’ Allen & Unwin, £16.99
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CULTURE | Books Will your next book embrace queer romance more fully?
BIBLIOFILE
ABSOLUTELY – I am so excited to write about romance that takes place proudly in the open, beneath the sun, among friends, accepted and built upon in community.
Belinda Bamber talks to Khashayar J Khabushani about Iran, fathers and forbidden love
You show how it was for K to be an Americanised Muslim after 9/11. I
don’t think I’ll ever get over the shock, horror and hurt that ensued as an Iranian-American Muslim after the 9/11 attacks. Among my friends and peers, at school, in the classroom, in the community and at home, my life changed irrevocably. I’m still grieving the loss of those innocent friendships.
The title of your debut novel, I Will Greet the Sun Again, is taken from a poem by Forugh Farrokhzad. She is, in my eyes, the most important
Iranian artist to ever live. Her work is a flaming torch for me that inspired the heart of the story, and K’s path to reclaiming his light.
K’s violent father, Baba, nearly extinguishes his youthful brightness. Who are the good fathers?
What intervention would you make in Iran? Thinking about it I feel grief
As a boy in LA I was in awe of the relationship between some friends and their fathers. I remember thinking, is this real – to play, laugh, explain and teach: to serve as a role model for others like me?
Does the warmth between the three brothers reflect your experience? Part of the joy of writing
this novel was imagining a sibling dynamic of warmth, admiration and closeness. For the most part, my mother, brothers and I were estranged: four strangers living under the same roof trying day to day simply to survive. Hardship can sever family bonds. What hope is there for immigrant women like Maman, slaving to give their children a better life? Ocean Vuong has brilliant insight into the way
parents arrive in a foreign land and immediately seek to become invisible in response to violence, discrimination and racism. Through their children, the goal shifts to wanting to be seen, understood, celebrated. It’s a dream I hope can be shared rather than deferred to the next generation. If Baba could start over, where should he begin? With a pen. I’d want him to write about his
personal traumas, inherited cultural expectations, displacement, war and the heartbreaks, betrayals and abuse he’s had to endure from an early age. To understand what has shaped him might prevent him causing similar harm to others. Language can change us, soothe us, save us. It can lead us to the truest, most honest version of ourselves.
For K, favouritism is a poisoned chalice. What’s your experience? It’s a loaded term, isn’t it?
I worked hard to be loved and valued when I was young, but then I’d sabotage it because I couldn’t shoulder the expectations of being a favourite. It made me want to disappear. Did you channel the American dream like K – who wants tattoos, a Dodgers jersey and shades? I’ve exceeded the tattoo requirement
(ha!). For K, as a nine-year-old boy, the dream is to do with individuality and the possibility of freedom. I would add, and love. K’s secret love affair with Johnny is fleeting.
and rage, so much fucking sorrow. Had my brothers and I remained in Iran as boys, our own lives could have been claimed. Bluntly, I often ask myself: what if there had never been Western coups? If I had a god-like power it’d be for the Iranian people – for the youth – to have their voice, with a democratic election. Which writers centre you? James Baldwin, Forugh, David Wojnarowicz, Lorraine Hansberry – whenever I need a surge of courage and beauty. On your bookshelf? John Edgar Wideman’s Brothers and Keepers, Azareen Van der Vliet Oloomi’s Savage Tongues, Stephanie Danler’s Sweetbitter, Doris Lessing’s The Golden Notebook, Claire Dederer’s Monsters, Christina Sharpe’s Ordinary Notes, Heidi Julavits’ Directions to Myself, Claire-Louise Bennett’s Checkout 19, Megan Fernandes’ Good Boys. Ideal writing conditions? I love to write during the stillness and quiet of the night. In front of my desk are large bay windows and I stare into the dark and foggy San Francisco sky and listen to music (right now it’s Philip Glass). In the brightness of the sun, I feel more aware of myself. In the night I’m less self-conscious and I think my writing becomes more playful, exciting, adventurous. I Will Greet the Sun Again by Khashayar J Khabushani (Viking £14.99). Read the full interview on countryandtownhouse.com
ECHOES of lives linger in Anne Enright’s story of Nell, her mother, and poet grandfather in The Wren, The Wren (Vintage, £18.99); An aunt HAUNTS Yayoi in The Premonition by Banana Yoshimoto (Faber, £12.99); the SHADOW of her father falls on a spy in A Bird in Winter by Louise Doughty (Faber £14.99); the EYES of Big Brother follow Julia (Granta, £18.99) in Sandra Newman’s feminist rewrite of 1984; an Israeli mother SPIES on her grandchildren in How to Love Your Daughter by Hila Blum (Bloomsbury £16.99); Katherine Rundell’s Impossible Creatures (Bloomsbury, £12.99) is a FANTASY for everyone’s inner child n
PHOTOS: © ARIANNA SHOOSHANI
FAMILY TIES
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In a BIND
The factory at Charfleet Book Bindery; (above & below) Leathersmith of London notebooks
Charlotte Metcalf meets Simon Burstein, the man saving bookbinding in Britain
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imon Burstein is the unlikely saviour of a small bookbinding factory on Canvey Island in Essex. Married for many years to Nathalie, the daughter of Sonia Rykiel, Simon is wellknown for his work in fashion and for selling Browns, the globally renowned fashion boutique on South Molton Street, to Farfetch in 2015. Alongside a distinguished career in fashion, Simon is a self-confessed stationery fanatic. For years, he had exclusive rights to distribute Filofaxes in France, selling them from his stationery store in Saint-Germaindes-Près. Today, he has turned that passion into transforming Leathersmith of London into a thriving stationery and lifestyle brand – and saving a century-old book bindery in the process. I join a coachload of journalists, photographers and influencers – among them the legendary fashion critic Suzy Menkes and celebrity interviewer Chrissy Iley – who’ve been shipped in to Canvey Island to witness the grand opening of Charfleet Bindery, which makes Leathersmith of London notebooks. It also creates many other well-known brands of notebook, photo album, guestbook, diary and lusciously bound bibles for the American market. Canvey is a reclaimed island in the Thames Estuary and seems a gentler, slower world, with its 1950s-style amusement arcades, funfair and cafés. It’s an unlikely destination for a visit by a royal family member, but Sophie, Duchess of Edinburgh, is on her way to declare the bindery officially open. It’s a momentous day on this unremarkable
Sophie, Duchess of Edinburgh, with Simon Burstein at Charfleet Book Bindery
industrial estate and a celebration because a few years ago the bindery faced bankruptcy – until Simon came along. Even though selling Filofaxes had become a side business in the late Eighties and Nineties, Simon felt so sentimental about them that he kept the Paris shop going. It was only after he split from Nathalie in 2006 and returned to London that he gave it up. But always tempted by good stationery, he then bought Leathersmith, which was making notebooks and diaries very similar to Smythson but at half the price. Having done that, it made sense to buy into the bindery making its products. The bindery had been family-run for 50 years, but had gone to the wall and been snatched up by American David Neale. When he died, Simon invested so the original family could buy it back. But the company was going in the wrong direction and within a year Simon had lost his investment. Simon explains what a seasonal business selling diaries is, terrible for cash flow and profits. They are produced in April for September delivery, with payment in December. By the end of January the overstock is dead. A company invested in Charfleet, but turned out to be ‘no more than an asset stripper which began siphoning off money and dismantling the factory,’ says Simon, who still had 20 percent shares in the company so was approached by the liquidators. There and then he decided to buy the bindery outright with the cash he had from the Browns sale. ‘I hadn’t planned it – it was a totally emotional, irrational response,’ he smiles. ‘The liquidators were furious as they were selling off all the equipment, but I now had 100 percent of the company so set about buying it out of receivership and keeping everyone on.’ Most of the staff, about 25 in number, lived locally and some had worked at the bindery for 30 years, so Simon’s delight was in saving every member of staff’s job. The bindery began producing more non-date-specific notebooks, so the company earns all the year round, and Simon has invested in new premises with state-of-the-art machinery. Following the bindery’s official opening by the Duchess of Edinburgh, it is a success story for Canvey Island and Simon travels there once a week. ‘There’s a lovely mezzanine, a canteen, open-plan offices and staff are happy,’ says Simon. His shops are positioning exquisitely hand-crafted leather goods at the heart of the Leathersmith lifestyle brand and Simon is confident that Charfleet has a secure future. The best part is he’s able to indulge in his passion for stationery and produce good-looking notebooks at different price points for like-minded aficionados. charfleetbookbindery.com n
PHOTOS:© IMANE BOUHLOU
CULTURE | Feature
72 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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PR O M OT I O N
INVEST IN ART
This autumn, the Affordable Art Fair returns to Battersea Park for a four-day art extravaganza
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hether you’re a seasoned collector or just an art lover looking to purchase something truly unique for the first time, then the Affordable Art Fair has to be a highlight of your calendar. The much-anticipated event is returning to Battersea Park this autumn (19-22 October), bringing together the best in affordable contemporary art from all over the world. There’ll be over a hundred leading galleries from around the world present, showcasing thousands of artworks (including sculptures, paintings and photography) from living artists – both established and rising stars. Pieces will be priced between £50 and £7,500, so whatever your budget you’re sure to find something you love. Alongside the exhibition, the fair has also teamed up with charity Arts Emergency, which provides 16-25 yearolds with a long-term programme of mentorship, networking and realworld opportunities, so they can follow their passions and navigate their way into the creative and cultural sectors. Arts Emergency will be presenting an exhibition of works for sale at Battersea, gifted by a prestigious network of artists to raise funds for the charity.
Whatever your budget, the Affordable Art Fair offers an exciting opportunity for all art lovers
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE FAIR
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Black History Month Exhibition As October is Black History Month, Affordable Art Fair Battersea will feature a special exhibition celebrating the work of living Black and minority ethnic artists, curated alongside the Black British Art group.
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Recent Graduates Exhibition Every year Affordable Art Fair provides over £100,000 of support to nurture and develop artists’ careers. This year’s Recent Graduates Exhibition will present work from a selection of top artists coming out of the UK’s art schools, brought together around a theme set by curator Nephertiti Oboshie Schandorf and Fair Director Hugo Barclay. All works in the exhibition will be available to buy, offering an unrivalled opportunity to discover cutting edge pieces, and support emerging talent before they become household names.
19-22 October, tickets from £10-£27; under 16s go free. Buy now at affordableartfair.com
PHOTOS: © SHAUN JAMES COX
ART AFTER HOURS Head to the Art After Dark Lates to enjoy all the fun of the fair after hours, with DJs spinning the soundtrack to your art adventure, complimentary welcome drinks and DIY art activities so you can embrace your inner Frida Kahlo. Thursday 19 & Friday 20 October, 5-9pm
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Installations by Abstract Artist Matt Dosa The bold, colourful work of Matt Dosa is the star of the Battersea Autumn campaign, which will be popping up across London from September. Matt is an abstract artist from North London whose mixed-media works span paintings, sculptures, prints and large scale murals. He will also be producing a brand new installation for the fair’s entrance hall, not to be missed.
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CULTURE | Art
The EXHIBITIONIST Ed Vaizey has a passion for fashion – can’t you tell?
for ‘Golden,’ and a unique replica of Sam Smith’s inflatable latex suit by Harri from this year’s Brit Awards (16 Sept to 11 Feb 2024, designmuseum.org). London fashion is also getting a further look in at the Gucci Cosmos show. Accoladed artist and stage designer Es Devlin has dreamed up an impressive immersive retrospective exploring the archives of this extraordinary fashion house. This affair is a curious trotting exhibition – shipped from Shanghai, where it last held residency – and adapts its curation to resonate with each city in which it lands. (11 Oct to 31 Dec, gucci.com). But wonderful though those shows will be there is no contest for the autumn’s main fashion event – and that is the V&A’s blockbuster show about Chanel. First shown in Paris in 2020, it opens in London on 16 September and will run until 25 February. Amazingly, it is the first show in Britain dedicated to the life and work of Gabrielle ‘CoCo’ Chanel (16 Sept to 25 Feb 2024, vam.ac.uk). Chanel opened her first millinery boutique in 1910 and died in 1971, so the show covers more than six decades of her work, with more than 180 outfits on display. These include clothes made for the British model Anne Gunning, as well as for Marlene Dietrich and Lauren Bacall. The designer’s early life was difficult, as she was orphaned at a young age. However, she showed a talent for sewing, and this led her to fashion. Her designs were simple, elegant, and comfortable, and were inspired by the everyday lives of women. She rejected the elaborate and restrictive fashions of the time, and instead created clothes that were practical and easy to move in. She also introduced a new aesthetic of simplicity and minimalism, which had a profound impact on women’s fashion. Chanel’s most famous creations, of course, include the Chanel suit, the little black dress, and the quilted handbag. These designs are still popular today, and they have become iconic symbols of fashion. London and Paris are famous fashion rivals – London is edgy, Paris is refined. But this autumn, London exhibition-goers can enjoy the best of both worlds. n CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Coco Chanel, the subject of a new exhibition at the V&A; the designer’s creations on display at the V&A; Craig Green’s SS15 collection, a designer featured in Rebel: 30 Years of British Fashion at the Design Museum; Sam Smith at the 43rd Brit Awards 2023 – a replica of his Harri outfit will be on display at Rebel
PHOTOS: COCO CHANEL BY ROGER SCHALL; © AMY GWATKIN FOR CRAIG GREEN; © LANDMARK MEDIA/ALAMY; © V&A MUSEUM
O
ne of my favourite party tricks is to tell people that for six years I was the Minister for Fashion. It is amazing that people do not immediately realise this when they set eyes on me, and even more extraordinary that it takes some minutes to convince them that I did indeed hold that role. Fashion is an amazing world. What we see at the apex – the catwalk shows of fashion houses like Burberry and McQueen – is the tip of a huge industry that trickles down to the high street, beauty, magazines and much more. I saw every aspect from my privileged position. Incredibly hard working and motivated young fashion designers working from their proverbial attics (yes, I met Erdem Moralıoğlu and Christopher Kane before they were famous) to the ludicrously hierarchical world of fashion week. (I moved from row ZZ to row AA to no invite at all on my journey as a minister.) I was hugely impressed by the British Fashion Council (BFC) and the hard yards it puts in to support the industry. I’m pleased it is collaborating with the Design Museum on new exhibition Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion. It will celebrate the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s Newgen programme, which supports the UK’s emerging fashion talent. The show will feature nearly 100 innovative fashion looks from ground-breaking debut and early collections, many of which have entered pop-culture history. Highlights include the swan dress worn by Björk at the 2001 Oscars, Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey-Daley outfit from his video
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CULTURE | Art The husband and wife duo are known for their polarising creations
GILLIE & MARC
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Getting to know art’s enfants terribles from their studio in Sydney, Australia
hen artist duo Gillie and Marc Schattner entered their portrait of Olympic swimmer John Konrads into Australia’s Archibald Prize, the judging panel was confused. ‘Who’s Gillie Marc?’ they asked, bemused. It was 2006 and their first collaboration, a portrait of Konrads with the black dog of depression by his side when mental health was still a taboo subject. It was a first for the competition too, who consulted its board before accepting the work. ‘Because they recognised it,’ Marc explains over Zoom from the couple’s Sydney studio, ‘it gave us confidence, the credibility to say, “Let’s keep doing this thing”.’ Gillie and Marc met on a film shoot in Hong Kong in 1990 – ‘it was literally love at first sight,’ declares Gillie. ‘A week later we eloped to Nepal. At the foothills of the Himalayas, we got married.’ It sounds like a straightforward love story but in fact both had to break off engagements to their fiancés back home. ‘Everyone said it wouldn’t last, but we just had our 33rd wedding anniversary,’ declares Marc happily. They have become known for their works that merge human bodies with animal heads, usually a dog and a rabbit. Their first sculpture ‘we made in fibreglass. It was a three-metre dog man, naked, on all fours,’ Gillie explains. ‘It was very polarising, and we realised sculpture has a lot of impact.’ Natural rebels, they don’t subscribe to the career trajectory that frames the lives of most artists. ‘Everything we do is: “if you can break a rule, let’s break it”,’ says Mark. While galleries worry about over-exposure, Gillie found this restrictive. ‘We wanted to work in multiple mediums, and create and exhibit all the time. We broke free and started our own gallery.’ It works in a similar way with their public art, a new exhibition of which is coming to London this September. They communicate with landowners
and mayors, cover costs for production, installation and insurance, and fund the work with sales of smaller work and attracting sponsors. ‘Obviously you don’t want to go broke, but we want to spread messages, transform ideas. If it costs us everything that we’ve got, which it does, that’s our value,’ says Marc. The positive feedback from the public has been a surprise – especially after the vast column inches dedicated globally to the opposite. ‘In the beginning it hurt. Critics were not just unkind but ruthless, made a point of going after us,’ says Marc. ‘But we’re huge admirers of Damien Hirst, and he’s got so many haters, he doesn’t care. Jeff Koons, same thing. America wants to pile on him. We’ve learnt a lot from these artists, they’re weathering the storm.’ They are also commissioned to create statues of Olympians, politicians and historic figures. After making 30 or 40, they realised with unease that all the works were of men. ‘We did a bit of research: the whole world had the same issue,’ says Gillie. ‘Only three percent of statues were female – insane. So we set up Statues for Equality, to try to balance the gender gap.’ They launched near the Rockefeller Centre in New York with statues of ten women including Oprah Winfrey, Nicole Kidman and Jane Goodall. ‘Funding for the arts is pathetic, it really is,’ says Marc. ‘Sculptures are expensive and cities spend zero on it. If it’s important enough, we’ll have to do that ourselves.’ This is art for conservation and awareness but also for a sense of place, a shared outlook. Art should be for the passer-by, the toddler in their pram, children who thrive on humour and playfulness. It might not suit some critics, but art should be for everyone. Public sculpture exhibition, A Wild Life for Wildlife, will be on display at London Bridge from 19 Sept 2023 to 18 Sept 2024. lovethelast.com n
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PR O M OT I O N The Fair offers over 220 stalls of luxury brands, perfect for your Christmas shopping
THE CHRISTMAS COUNTDOWN BEGINS… Make sure the Christmas Cotswold Fair is in your diary this season
‘B
ut it’s still summer!’ We hear you cry. Despite the September sunshine, autumn is just around the corner… and with it the countdown to the festive season. Start planning Christmas 2023 by putting the Christmas Cotswold Fair in your diary – and make sure it’s your best yet. The much-loved event is celebrating its 38th year in 2023, and to mark the anniversary it is moving to a brand new home: Evenlode Grounds, in the heart of Evenlode Valley near Moreton-in-Marsh. As usual, ten percent of ticket and refreshment sales will be donated to the charity WellChild. The annual Fair will host over 220 stallholders, 40 percent of which are new for 2023, from across the Cotswolds and beyond, in three specially erected marquees. ‘We are so excited to be setting down roots at Evenlode Grounds,’ says fair organiser Lucy Greaves. ‘The Christmas Cotswold Fair is a staple event in the area, marking the beginning of the festive period, and we cannot wait to be able to expand
and grow into our new home, offering so much more than we have ever before.’ In addition to the new venue, The Christmas Cotswold Fair will be full to bursting with an extensive programme of workshops and demonstrations, book signings, author meet and greets, and, of course, the luxurious Cotswold Grey VIP Lounge with delectable dishes from The Potted Goose Café. ‘This year’s Fair will be bigger and better than ever before,’ continues Lucy. ‘Alongside our incredible array of stalls and daily events, we will be celebrating delicious, local food, prepared to perfection on site, from a number of independent and special suppliers. We look forward to welcoming stallholders and visitors in November for the ultimate festive shopping experience.’ A supporter of WellChild for 30 years, the Christmas Cotswold Fair has become critical in raising funds for the charity, which supports children and young people living with complex medical needs, giving them and their families a chance to thrive at home rather than in the hospital. Last year, the fair raised £120,000 – and it hopes to donate even more to the charity in 2023.
BOOK IT 6-9 NOVEMBER: Evenlode Grounds, Evenlode, Moreton-in-Marsh, Gloucestershire GL56 0YS Mon: 5.30pm-9.30pm Tues & Weds: 9am-5pm Thurs: 9am-4pm TICKETS: Begin from £12 and are on sale now. To subscribe and for more information about The Christmas Cotswold Fair, visit cotswoldfair.com
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CULTURE | Sustainability
LITTLE GREEN BOOK Lisa Grainger meets Ruby Raut, founder of WUKA, the brand revolutionising period products
should hold you back during your period’), the charming CEO has become a hero of girls and women around the world. With her husband, Dave, who left his tech job to help her co-found the company, WUKA has sold more than 700,000 products in 46 countries, in shops from Morrisons to Planet Organic. So many women love them, Ruby adds, that some have started little businesses, selling them in rural areas. ‘My sister sells about 20 pairs a day,’ she says, delightedly. Ruby now stocks 15 styles – made of sustainable cotton, Tencel and recycled nylon – from thongs and sports shorts to swimsuits. And having spent six years sourcing the best materials and a female-run factory in China, she understands what works. ‘We’re not aiming to be Agent Provocateur,’ she says. ‘But I get mail every day from women around the world saying that I’ve changed their lives: sportswomen who wear our leggings, and mothers after childbirth and older women with leaky bladders. Sometimes I cry, the letters are so sweet.’ For teenagers, Ruby has made helpful packs containing booklets explaining periods. She’s also created gift boxes that can be given to women who might be unable to afford the outlay of three pairs, ‘which is the minimum you need really: one to wash, one to wear, one extra’. The initial outlay of about £15 a pair, Ruby admits, can seem a lot at first. ‘But the average woman will need only about 129 WUKAs versus about 11,000 pads and tampons in her life,’ she adds. ‘So it’s worth it – both for her and the earth.’ They’d be much more affordable, she says, passionately, if the government would recognise period pants as menstrual products, which are taxed at just 5 percent, rather than clothing, taxed at 20 percent. ‘So if you want to stand up for women, please sign my campaign,’ she urges. Done. Ruby Raut
WUKA’s teen range comes with helpful packs explaining periods and menstrual health
Sign the petition to remove VAT from period pants at petition. parliament.uk/petitions/635692. wuka.co.uk n
PHOTOS: © EKIN CAN BAYRAKDAR
R
uby Raut remembers clearly the first time she menstruated. She grew up in Nepal where the word for period, ‘nachune’, means ‘untouchable’. Like many girls she was sent away – luckily for her, to her aunt’s, rather than a remote ‘menstrual hut’ – and given strips of an old sari to line her pants. She didn’t dare venture outside in case the wad of cloth fell out. And when she tried to use a pin to hold it in place, it prodded her flesh. ‘For a young girl, it was so traumatic,’ she says with a shudder. When, at the age of 20, she escaped the destiny of arranged marriage that had befallen her sisters and travelled to the UK to study, she couldn’t believe the range of period products on shelves. Nor could she comprehend how polluting they were. While studying for a degree in environmental sciences, she learned that a staggering 200,000 tonnes of disposable period products annually are dumped into landfill and about two billion are flushed down toilets, often ending up in waterways. To make matters worse, about 80 percent of them contain plastic, which takes decades to break down. Determined to change that, Ruby set about trying to make re-usable period pants, using a second-hand sewing machine and learning pattern-making from YouTube. The first examples, she says with a laugh, ‘had gussets made with my husband’s old T-shirts and umbrella material to make them leakproof – which obviously didn’t work.’ In 2017, she made 30 pairs she was happy with and the response from local testers was unequivocally positive. She then raised £7,000 on Kickstarter and launched Britain’s first re-usable period-pants company. Six years after the launch of WUKA (‘which stands for Wake Up Kick Ass, because we believe nothing
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CULTURE | News
GOOD TIMES
Injecting some cheer into your news agenda, says Tessa Dunthorne GRIND YOUR GEARS
Eighteen million ‘fadtech’ kitchen items could be recycled into life-saving equipment. New research from Recycle Your Electricals implores households to donate their old breadmakers, chocolate fountains, unused grills and so on – according to the study, there are over 2.4 million unused blenders across the UK, which could become 2.1 million defibrillators. recycleyourelectricals.org.uk
BETWIXT A PROBLEM AND A SOLUTION
One of the largest coral restoration events in history has been launched by Mars, Incorporated (yes, the one that makes the chocolate bars). ‘The Big Build’ in August brought together 100 participants from 17 conservation and science partners, who have planted 30,000 corals across 2,500 sq/m in Indonesia. Mars is aiming to restore one million corals globally by the end of 2023. mars.com
BRANCHING OUT
A new EU directive asks that all key goods exported from member nations should be deforestation-free, meaning anything from your European furniture picks to your favourite Belgian chocolate will be guilt-free (and will not have caused forest degradation). An IPCC report has previously found that halting deforestation would be the second most efficient way to bring down CO2 levels (after immediately implementing renewable energies).
RESERVE ALL JUDGEMENT
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
A new public nature reserve has opened in Dorset. The Knighton Reserve forms part of the Silverlake Estate, and is open to the public for the first time since the second world war. The land is made up of scrubs, woodlands and acid grassland, and is home to a variety of wildlife, including the rare silver-studded blue butterfly. Dog walkers, bird watchers and ramblers are all welcome to make the most of the space. silverlakedorset.com 80 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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A FLOWER FOR YOU
Windsor and Chelsea-based florist, Lavender Green Flowers, has helped local charities blossom through a green-minded scheme. Its ‘flower freecycle’ recycles flowers that otherwise would have ended up in landfill and waste at weddings and events. Local volunteers collect these still-good bouquets and pass them onto charities, which sell these on, or to individuals and spaces that would benefit from some green joy. Since 2019, the scheme has helped raised £40,000 for local organisations. lavendergreen.co.uk
Scientists have found an all new ecosystem underneath the sea floor. An international team of researchers from the Schmidt Ocean Institute discovered an unknown world lurking in volcanic cavities – and teeming with creepy crawlies. Worms, snails and chemosynthetic bacteria were found underneath the volcano’s hydrothermal vents in a first-of-a-kind find for scientists. schmidtocean.org
More positive tales from around the world SHOALS AND SHOALS This summer saw the world’s largest release of seahorses into Sydney Harbour. Pollution and habitat loss has decimated numbers of the White Seahorse, native to this part of the world. The Sydney Institute of Marine Science captured three pregnant seahorses earlier this year and raised the frys (baby seahorses) in captivity. They’ll now be closely monitored as they venture into the wild. WASTE NOT, WANT NOT Several new innovations are transforming food waste in the home. A new venture from the co-founder of Google Nest, Matt Rogers, is Mill, a high-tech kitchen bin that turns food waste into compost on a low-power cycle. When the bin is full, it is picked up and turned into commercial chicken feed (launching in the UK soon, mill.com). Another tech solution is Lomi, a countertop device that turns food waste into plant-friendly compost for your home and garden (lomi.com). Looking for a more lo-fi option? Try a bokashi bin, which uses a natural fermentation process to break down food waste.
V GOOD
CREEPY CRAWLIES
NEWS NIBBLES
A new study in Nature Food journal has found that a vegan diet could be the key to reducing your carbon footprint by 75 percent (compared to a high meat diet). Through tracking over 55,000 people over a long period of time, the University of Oxford team behind the study were able to evaluate the overall impact of each diet type. In addition to this, a life-cycle assessment of 38,000+ farms in 119 countries was able to distinguish the difference in impact owed to where and how food was produced.
GRAVY TRAIN
Trains powered by veg oil have begun running from Marylebone station. Chiltern Railways is experimenting with ‘plant-based’ fuel and has officially made a UK first: hydro-treated veg oil on passenger trains in the UK. The fuel is made up of cooking oil, tallow and other waste products.
KINDER TECH Tech entrepreneurs and developers have been awarded prize money for innovations that improve the lives of those living with dementia. A prize-fund of £1.9m was split between 24 teams presenting technologies to the Longitude Prize on Dementia. The innovations rewarded include an app that helps those with dementia communicate, high-tech glasses that help identify familiar faces, and augmented reality maps that enable people to navigate their area safely. LIKE A KID IN A CANDY STORE Someday Studios and Westminster City Council are snapping up super-prime London spaces to create rent-free stores – saying a sugary sweet goodbye to American sweet stores and empty shop fronts. Brands that are successful in applying will be provided a single occupancy store rent-free for around six months (or be invited to join a curated concept store), alongside marketing and PR support. The expected shops? Independent and emerging brands from creatives, entrepreneurs and inventors – hopefully leading to a more vibrant high street.
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
IN THE HEADLINES
ALL CHARGED UP Uber has committed that all of its cars will be electric by the end of 2025 in a bid to achieve net zero (uber.com). QUIET SUPERHERO A new app, MyNARA, aims to provide discreet evidence-logging for those experiencing domestic abuse through an innocuous-appearing app. The app helps log abuse and build a base of journal entries and data points that could be used as evidence (mynara.app). UKRAINE PRIDE Five lions have been rescued from Ukraine – travelling 20 hours out of the warzone; they are now safely cared for in a Polish zoo (ifaw.org). September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 81
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CULTURE | Conservation
The POSITIVE DISRUPTOR Water, water everywhere… Sadly, no it’s not, says James Wallace Drought and water rationing could be a reality in the UK sooner than you think
THINK DIFFERENTLY, ACT NOW Help support the UK’s vital water network
SWIM Join your local open water swimming club such as the Henley Mermaids. henleymermaids.com SIGN Make the Government listen by signing the Rescue Our Rivers petition. you.38degrees.org.uk/ petitions/restore-our-rivers-andfreshwaters-to-health-by-2030
I
VOLUNTEER Become a citizen scientist by volunteering for Freshwater Watch. earthwatch.org.uk
privatised in 1989 was debt-free, and now finds itself £14bn in the red. Thanks mainly to the asset-stripping by MacQuarie Bank between 2006 and 2017, Thames Water’s debt tripled from £3.4bn to £10.8bn. Not to fix water and sewage leaks, of course, but to pay shareholder dividends. Not one new reservoir has been opened in the UK in 32 years. Our waterways are the lifeblood of our economy, holding together our society and sustaining our lives. All of us need clean and healthy rivers for drinking water and growing food. With a swelling population, increasingly hot and dry climate, and water companies dropping like flies, it is not only our rivers that are in the shit. We are in a freshwater emergency. You can help by cutting average personal use down from 144 litres a day but ultimately you should consider telling your water supplier and the Government to take their fingers out of behinds and stick them in their leaky assets. James is Chief Executive of River Action n
WATCH Chortle at River Action’s cheeky animation, This is Shit. youtube. com/@riveractionuk
READ Fall in love with rivers again with Amy-Jane Beer’s The Flow. (Bloomsbury.com, £10.99)
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; UNSPLASH
n a desperate effort to finish off the reputation of the water and sewage industry, Thames Water has hogged the headlines over the past few months. Its CEO scarpered at the end of June having failed to secure the funds to turn the floundering company around, and amid controversy surrounding its environmental performance and executive pay deals. British rivers are in the worst state of any European nation. All of them run thick with a chemical cocktail of pollution from sewage, agriculture, plastics and other nasties. Many carry a whiff of death thanks to 26,000 tonnes of phosphates from farm manure, and poo pumped through their veins 1.7 million hours annually. And with lethal pathogens such as E.coli and intestinal enterococci in free flow, it is no wonder that so many swimmers, rowers and paddlers are falling sick. But perhaps even more worrying than the pollution crisis is the impending threat of water insecurity. Thames Water leaks 602 million litres of water a day and yet its 15 million customers and their gardens thirst for 2.6 billion litres. At the same time our treasured chalk streams run dry thanks to over abstraction, droughts fuelled by climate breakdown, and decades of underinvestment in fixing leaks, building reservoirs and restoring wetlands. If you are reading this in London or South East England, you are likely to face water rationing soon. Thames Water has warned water shortages could cost London’s economy £330m a day. Parts of the South West, East Midlands and East of England will join the race to the bottom of the well by 2030. The newspapers revel in the tale of a company that when 82 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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ludicrous.
To this day, most mattresses are made using synthetic materials and sprayed with fire retardant chemicals. At Naturalmat, we’ve always thought this was ludicrous. Since 1999, from the banks of the river Exe in Devon, we’ve only used natural, organic and sustainable materials to make our beds and mattresses. Thanks to these natural fibres, including organic wool sourced directly from farmers here in the southwest, our mattresses offer a far healthier, restful, and of course, natural night’s sleep. organic. local. sustainable.
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Volkswagen Buzz Cargo Commerce PRICE £48,421 (£43,241 with plug-in grant) BATTERY 77 kWh POWER 200 PS RANGE Up to 256 miles 0-62mph 10.2 seconds TOP SPEED 90mph PAYLOAD 607kg STREAMING Down Under – Men at Work
Road Test
Looking for a workhorse with a groovy history? The hippest van in town (or country) is the electric VW ID. Buzz Cargo. Jeremy Taylor loads up his rose-tinted specs
TOWN
COUNTRY
RATING: 4/5 HANDBAGS
RATING: 4/5 WELLIES
The Volkswagen camper van inspired a generation of groovy travellers to explore the world. Hip and trendy, the microbus remains an iconic vehicle for young and old alike – a smash hit at any music festival, from Glasto to Glyndebourne. Many petrol or diesel vans cost considerably less, provide more space and go much faster than the all-electric VW ID. Buzz Cargo. Yet, I doubt any commercial vehicle has ever offered quite as much character and head-turning retro chic. Volkswagen admits the Buzz was deliberately styled on the Type 2 van of the Swinging Sixties – Type 1 being the VW Beetle. Our Cargo is the van version of the more family-friendly, passenger Buzz. However, instead of five seats it offers just three, plus 3.9 cubic metres of load space. VW has installed sliding rear doors on either side for better access when loading in town, while the charging cable is stored in an underfloor space, available even when the van is fully laden. The cockpit area has plenty storage too. A large infotainment screen controls many in-van functions. The VW system isn’t the best but connects seamlessly to Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Cruise control and a heated driver’s seat are standard. The cabin is not a funky as the passenger Buzz but perfectly adequate. Finally, if you are a vegan, no animal products were used in the construction of VW’s first all-electric van. Perhaps another reason why the Buzz was named International Van of the Year 2023.
Thanks to innovative vehicles like the Buzz, smoky vans polluting the atmosphere will one day be a thing of the past. The Cargo is part of VW’s growing range of ID electric vehicles driving that EV revolution. Electric vans such as the Ford E-Transit and Renault Kangoo E-Tech are key rivals, while other commercial vehicle manufacturers are turning to battery power too. Unfortunately for all of them, none have the attention-seeking kudos of the Buzz. The VW would raise the profile of any business – whether it’s delivering bread or bricks. I had to factor in extra timing at every stop, chatting to people who once owned a classic Type 2 van, or were just keen to quiz me about the Buzz’s eco credentials. Everybody loves the Buzz, which can only be good for business. If you opt for retro-style, two-tone paintwork to garner even more attention, there’s simply no chance of avoiding the limelight! It may be pricey but on longer journeys, the ride comfort is exceptional for a van and, being electric, noise levels are at an absolute minimum. Handling and light steering are more car-like than you might expect too. VW claims a maximum range of 256 miles but even unladen I was lucky to squeeze 200 from the battery pack. That figure would be dramatically cut with a full load onboard. Volkswagen is said to be working on new battery options. The Buzz Cargo is currently the hottest electric van on the market and for good reason. Ageing hippies everywhere will want one, even if they don’t own a business.
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Motoring | CULTURE
THE RIDE
Destination: Bovey Castle, Devon
Bovey Castle is a grand pile – a quintessential British hotel, built to impress in the early 20th century. With a humungous list of family-friendly activities, this baronial Dartmoor property also boasts dramatic views over the surrounding countryside and a fantastic ambiance. A place to show off your best waxed cotton jackets and wellies, the vast Bovey estate should offer something for everyone. From lessons in making cider to a birds of prey display, an impressive spa to an 18-hole golf course, Bovey is like a country house theme park with the luxury touch. Best of all, it isn’t too stuffy – muddy dogs are welcome and staff know the area well enough to offer tips and advice. Amazing walks are available straight from the front door and there’s a genuine sense of homeliness about the place. The house was transformed into a hotel and golf course in 1930 – a Great Western Railway property created to lure city-dwellers away to the countryside for the weekend. Arriving by train, they were carried the last few miles to Bovey’s dramatic location by bus. These days, most guests arrive by car – although there is a helicopter landing pad for flying visits. Instead, I’ve chosen two-wheeled transport, a motorcycle with an equally illustrious history. Norton dates back to 1898, or just before the first foundations were dug at Bovey. Despite a rollercoaster history, Norton is now back in business and building beautiful machines again. None more so than the Commando, first produced by Norton from 1967 to 1977, the retro road bike has been reinvented with a flash of chrome and some eye-catching paintwork. The Commando is probably Norton’s most
Muddy dogs welcome – despite Bovey Castle’s baronial presence
famous bike – a classic British twin-cylinder that’s as desirable today as it was back in the late sixties. Its key rival is the Triumph Thruxton – a retro machine with more equipment that is just a little too ubiquitous to steal the Norton’s thunder. Racey and eye-catching, the Commando is an involving ride, backed up by one of the sweetest exhaust notes of any bike I’ve tested. The suspension is firm but it’s comfortable over distance and soaks up the bumps on a Devon B-road. The SP Sport model I rode featured upright handlebars but for another £500, retro riders can opt for the dropped, café racer look of the CR. Both will get you noticed and have that handmade appeal of a low volume, British manufacturer. The Commando is a renowned bike and for many riders, that is a huge part of the appeal. This is a machine dripping in character. The one key drawback is the price but I say don’t let that put you off.
IN THE BOOT
CLEAN MACHINE Keep your boot dog friendly and clean with these bespoke covers to suit any car. Titan boot liner from £209. titancovers.co.uk
BOOK IT: Bovey Castle, rooms from £325. boveycastle.com Norton Commando 961 SP PRICE £16,999 ENGINE 961cc V6 POWER 77bhp TANK RANGE 120 miles SEAT HEIGHT 810mm ECONOMY 26.4 mpg STREAMING Free Bird – Lynyrd Skynryd
LOST & FOUND Award-winning, matchboxsized tracking device that links to a mobile phone and keeps your car safe. Streetwize GPS Tracker, £55.50. halfords.com
LE MANS 100 Le Mans celebrated its centenary this year – Tom Kristensen won the 24-hour race a record nine times. This is his story. Mr Le Mans by Tom Kristensen (Evro, £40) n
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CULTURE | Cars
Moving Sculptures Rolls-Royce’s new all-electric Spectre is a vision for the future of sustainable British luxury, says Charlotte Metcalf
A
lways aiming, and invariably succeeding, to surprise and lead the way, in June RollsRoyce launched Spectre, the world’s first electric ultra-luxury coupé. Spectre was presented to a collection of international journalists in Napa Valley and, despite the fact Rolls-Royce Motor Cars is making history with its first all-electric motor car, CEO Torsten Müller-Ötvös, insists: ‘It’s a Rolls-Royce first and an electric car second. No concessions or compromises have been made in terms of interior space, comfort, performance or ride quality. If you’re not attracted to the car, then it’s not a Rolls-Royce.’ Indeed, Spectre bears all the visual hallmarks of its non-electric predecessors and continues to represent what the marque refers to as ‘automotive haute couture’ at its finest. As with so many Rolls-Royces, Spectre is the essence of three pen strokes. The first indicates its ‘upright to flowing’ silhouette, with the back falling gracefully away from the front. The second suggests its ‘upstanding gestures’, the front like a ship’s prow against the waves, giving it an air of calm, quiet confidence. Finally, there is the continuous ‘waft’ line (like a single hull line) along the bottom. Spectre is pared down to its essential graphic beauty and, despite being the most digital Rolls-Royce ever built, the design team has not overloaded drivers and passengers with unnecessary information. Instead, Spectre is being presented as ‘sculpture combined with dynamics’. Torsten is confident that Spectre’s ‘sheer monolithic beauty’ will be hard to resist and it’s admittedly difficult not to be drawn to the elegant Monteverde green vehicle that I choose to drive. I feel reassuringly cocooned and solidly held in the lowered driving seat.
Charlotte gets behind the wheel of the all-electric Spectre
Yes, Spectre has ‘waftability’ (an essential part of any Rolls-Royce’s DNA) but the battery is fully integrated into the car’s architecture, low and central, which means the car holds the road beautifully. Many Rolls-Royces have the ‘magic carpet ride’ feel, which can sometimes make you believe you are hovering above the road. This is what Torsten calls the ‘sky hook’, but while there is still the smoothness, the Spectre feels entirely sturdy and reliable, enabling a real sense of control and precision, however the roads twist and turn through Napa Valley’s vineyards. It’s also gloriously quiet. No wonder it’s generating excitement, with 40 percent of pre-orders from people who have never owned a Rolls-Royce before. Spectre’s a gamechanger, magnificently ushering in the marque’s exciting all-electric future. rolls-roycemotorcars.com n
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CULTURE | Interview
Actress and Hamnet playwright Lolita Chakrabarti talks to Charlotte Metcalf about her love for theatre, the long road to success, and never being able to take a holiday
IN BRIEF COUNTRY COTTAGE OR PENTHOUSE?
Today, I quite fancy a penthouse with a river or sea view. DOG OR CAT?
I don’t have either as don’t want the responsibility, but I do like dogs. COUNTRY PUB OR MICHELIN STAR?
I love trying new food, so Michelin star. GARDENING OR THEATRE?
Straightforward – theatre of course. HEELS OR FLATS?
I don’t do sensible, so funky flats. DESIGNER CLOTHES OR COUNTRY CASUALS
I would never do country casuals – I’d be in loungewear – so let’s go designer.
I
n 2012 the actor Lolita Chakrabarti exploded into our collective consciousness with her play Red Velvet. Her husband, Adrian Lester, took the lead role when the play opened at The Tricycle (now The Kiln) in Kilburn, and they became theatre’s most fêted couple. Over a decade later, Lolita has become one of theatre’s most sought-after writers, as well as being a successful actress. She won numerous awards for her adaptation of Life of Pi and, following a sell-out show at Stratford, her adaptation of Maggie O’Farrell’s Hamnet opens at the Garrick Theatre at the end of September, bringing the most significant box-office advance in the theatre’s 134-year history. Lolita was born in 1969 in Hull but grew up in Birmingham where her father was an orthopaedic surgeon at Selly Oak Hospital. The family lived in a hospital flat, where Lolita remembers being ‘utterly happy.’ When she was ten, the family emigrated back to Calcutta (now Kolkata), but only stayed 18 months, because there were no facilities for Lolita’s older sister to sit her A-levels. However, Lolita had discovered a love of acting – back at a convent school in Edgbaston, she was spotted by the drama teacher. ‘Amid all the nuns, there was Maureen Stack, a bleached blonde in stilettos,’ remembers Lolita. ‘She knew I could do it and persuaded me to apply for RADA.’ Lolita was accepted and, after graduating, embarked upon a career as a stage actress. Six years later, between jobs, she started writing plays and numerous short stories for Interact, a charity that sends actors to read stories to stroke patients, for which Lolita is now an ambassador. ‘I was seeing if I could write and slowly I ventured out to see if anyone was interested in my stories – but they weren’t!’ laughs Lolita. Then, in 1998, she was told about a reading at a theatre festival in Brighton, about the 19th-century African-American actor Ira Aldridge. ‘In 1833, Aldridge replaced Edmund Kean as Othello at the Theatre Royal in Covent Garden, but I’d never even heard of him,’ she says. ‘I searched everywhere afterwards but there was no mention of him anywhere. In many ways his invisibility was like looking through a historic lens at my own experience and I decided he required recognition.’ Lolita started writing his story as a film, but later Indhu Rubasingham, (who became The Kiln’s Artistic Director), suggested writing it as a play. The play became Red Velvet. ‘There were 15 years between that Brighton festival and Red Velvet’s opening night, so it was no quick route to success,’ says Lolita, ‘but it exploded beyond my expectations. Now
Aldridge is up on the wall with greats like Kean, Garrick and Olivier, and Red Velvet is on school and university curricula.’ Even after the play’s success, offers didn’t materialise: ‘I was ready to be pursued but wasn’t! But then came the chance to adapt two impossible books.’ First came Italo Calvino’s Invisible Cities, followed by Life of Pi, which opened at Sheffield’s Crucible in 2019, and went on to scoop up countless awards, here and on Broadway, including three Tonys and five Oliviers. Then Acting Artistic Director of the RSC Erica Whyman asked Lolita to adapt Maggie O’Farrell’s Hamnet, about Shakespeare’s son who died aged 11. ‘It usually takes me six weeks to write a first draft and I have to be alone,’ says Lolita. ‘It begins as the equivalent of a child’s crayon drawing and, hopefully, slowly becomes fine art. I write as an actor and need to imagine saying the lines. Sometimes Maggie thought something sounded a bit too modern, but I’d explain the reason for it and she’d understand.’ Once Hamnet opens in London, will Lolita have time for a holiday? We laugh as she says she recently took her two daughters, 22 and 19, to Menorca but only managed a week. She loved the break but is itching to get back to some acting: ‘I’d relish playing a well-written character again like Meera Harwood, whom I played in the BBC series Showtrial. She had something to lose so I could emotionally invest in the part.’ Shakespeare? ‘Yes absolutely! I loved every moment of playing Gertrude in Kenneth Branagh’s Hamlet and I dream of a juicy part like Queen Margaret in Richard III. Or Cleopatra. Or even a Greek tragic heroine like Medea.’ Lolita has an acting role for Apple TV, which she’s not allowed to talk about, and several writing projects on the boil, including a play she is writing about her father: ‘It’s a true story about a murder in the 1960s. My father was in charge of the injured patient and gave evidence at the Old Bailey. Now in his nineties, he’s been a brilliant adviser.’ What is for certain, is that Lolita’s evident enthusiasm and determination means her writing career, though stellar and recognised with an OBE for services to drama, has not even begun to peak. As we part ways, I realise I’ve been in conversation with a woman who will surely be recognised not just as a great actress but as one of the most significant playwrights of her generation. Hamnet is at the Garrick Theatre from 30 September to 6 January 2024. thegarricktheatre.co.uk n
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Lolita Chakrabati is one of theatre’s most sought-after writers
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Nurse Allyson Williams MBE, who came to the UK from Trinidad in 1969
TIMES
PHOTOS: © CHRISTIAN SINIBALDI; © ALLYSON WILLIAMS
C&TH × BYLINE
LIFE’S BLOOD A new touring exhibition traces the lives of those who came to Britain to build our National Health Service. Suyin Hayes pays a visit to explore why its message is as relevant as ever in its 75th year
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Feature | CULTURE
PHOTOS: © CHRISTIAN SINIBALDI; © ALLYSON WILLIAMS
N
o one prepared you for how the patients were going to treat you,’ Allyson Williams, who came to London from Trinidad to train as a nurse in May 1969 at the Whittington Hospital in Highgate, reminisces. ‘They’d slap your hand away and say “don’t touch me, your black is going to rub off on me”.’ While there were many challenges on the job, Williams found her community in London. She and her colleagues ‘would party all night and return to the nurses’ home about 6am, shower and then go on duty for 7am’. In 1974, she met and married Vernon, one of the founders of the Notting Hill Carnival, which she continues to be Polaroids from Allyson's life heavily involved with. and career in the NHS In 2002, she was awarded an MBE for her services to the midwifery profession. Williams’ story is one of many featured in the Migration Museum’s new touring exhibition, Heart of the Nation: Migration and the Making of the NHS, which celebrates the contributions of migrant workers to the NHS on its 75th anniversary. The museum explores how the movement of people to and from Britain across the ages has made us who we are, as individuals and as a nation. Currently open at Leicester Museum and Art Gallery, before going on to Leeds in October and then London in 2024, the exhibition showcases the experiences of people who moved from Caribbean countries as part of the Windrush Generation – as Williams did – alongside those of people from all over the world. Tracing their journeys from leaving their home countries, to working on the job, and building a life in the UK, the exhibition looks at the key challenges migrant healthcare workers have faced and, crucially, the rich contributions they have made and legacies they have created. At a time when around one in six people working in the NHS has a non-British nationality – and as the NHS is facing unprecedented pressures – the museum’s artistic director Aditi Anand hopes visitors will take away an appreciation of the struggles and resilience of migrant healthcare workers, who ‘often faced systematic discrimination and prejudice, but built careers and lives in Britain in spite of the challenges they faced’. The exhibition features dozens of personal stories, unique artefacts and ephemera, such as the nursing badges and passport of Margaret Elizabeth Jaikissoon, who moved from Trinidad to the UK and completed her nursing training in 1976. ‘She had to work twice as hard,’ recalls Margaret’s daughter Nicole. ‘She found herself repeating the same menial jobs, while her white counterparts were able to prosper with more advanced jobs. Unfortunately on many occasions, mum would encounter ignorant patients who rejected the care of a black nurse and refused to be touched by her black hands.’ One section showcases a series of recent portraits by artist Evewright of Caribbean elders who worked in the NHS. As visitors walk past, the images transition from the subjects’ own personal images showing their lives within the NHS over the decades to the recent portraits, creating an effect of journeying through time. Another section features portraits commissioned by the Migration Museum by photographer Christian Sinabaldi, with each person
representing a different decade of the NHS’ history. Allyson Williams is the representative for the 1960s, pictured at her home among her colourful carnival headdresses, symbolising her role as an integral part of the Trinidadian community in London. Alongside the personal stories, the exhibition explores bigger themes that take on renewed relevance today. Through photographs from colonial-era medical colleges and testimonies of recruitment drives abroad for nurses, the exhibition teases out the links between Britain and its former Empire, and how this legacy led to people migrating to work in the NHS. It also presents narratives that may be surprising. ‘The story of the NHS is about emigration from Britain as well as immigration,’ says Anand, pointing to the fact that, after the Second World War, thousands of British doctors and nurses left to work abroad, often to Commonwealth countries, where British qualifications were easily transferable. ‘This, in effect, created an even bigger gap that immigrant healthcare workers filled, particularly in deprived regions or areas of practice that were considered unattractive to British-trained doctors and nurses.’ Speaking to this theme in the context of 2023, Heart of the Nation features a placard from the recent junior doctor strikes which reads ‘Next Stop Australia’, hinting at how emigration is a continuing trend for doctors who are considering leaving the NHS. The staffing crisis is just one of the questions raised in the exhibition that persists today, and arguably has more urgency than ever before on the service’s 75th anniversary. Disputes over pay and burnout have seen the biggest doctors and nurses’ walk-outs in decades, and a record number of people are waiting for care – exacerbated by the pandemic. A 2022 British Medical Association report on race equality in medicine showed that 76 percent of respondents experienced racism in their workplace on at least one occasion in the last two years. Another report this year found that one in three black and ethnic minority NHS staff members have faced bullying or discrimination. And while refugees have contributed significantly to the NHS, the political environment for those coming from similar situations is becoming increasingly hostile. After a recent court ruling deemed the Government’s plan to deport asylum seekers to Rwanda unlawful, Rishi Sunak and Suella Braverman have announced their intentions to appeal the decision. ‘At a time when there is so much negativity around migration in the media and public discourse,’ says Anand, ‘Heart of the Nation is a timely reminder of the vital role that migrants have always played in the NHS and the extent to which, just like the NHS, migration is central to the very fabric of who we are in Britain – as individuals, as communities and as a nation.’ The Migration Museum’s exhibition, ‘Heart of the Nation: Migration and the Making of the NHS’, is open now at Leicester Art Museum and Gallery. It will move to Leeds in October and London in 2024. This has been published as part of the C&TH x Byline Time partnership n September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 91
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TURN IT UP It’s Eve Hewson’s time to take centre stage, says Amy Wakeham FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID REISS ART DIRECTOR FLEUR HARDING
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Dress Carolina Herrera Boots CHANEL Bra and briefs Commando Essentials collection earrings in 18ct gold with Flex’it mesh chain and diamonds; Souls collection ring, 18ct gold and white diamond; Souls collection ring, 18ct gold and black diamond; Souls collection ring, 18ct gold and ruby Fope
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Top, skirt and boots Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Eternal N°5 ring in 18k beige gold and diamonds; Eternal N°5 ring in 18k white gold and diamonds; Eternal N°5 earrings in 18k white gold and diamonds CHANEL
ll cheekbones, cat eyes and raven hair, Eve Hewson is a force to be reckoned with as she takes our fashion shoot by storm, fixing the camera with her singularly intense gaze, and blasting music from her playlist over the speakers. She brings this same take-no-prisoners energy to her work as an actor, gaining accolades for her starring roles in Bad Sisters, The Luminaries and now Flora and Son, an Irish indie film that prompted a furious bidding war at Sundance Film Festival (Apple TV ended up buying the rights for around $20 million). In person, Eve is funny, bold and candid, speaking with an openness that belies the fact she grew up somewhat in the glare of the public eye as the daughter of Bono and his wife, activist Ali Hewson. She’s in London to start work on season two of Bad Sisters, the critically acclaimed TV show written by Sharon Horgan, who stars in it as one
of the titular sisters alongside Eve, Anne-Marie Duff, Eva Birthistle, and Sarah Greene. ‘I totally believe in Sharon and trust that she would come up with something genius,’ Eve says of the new season. ‘But when I sat down to read [the scripts], I got a little bit scared. I read the first episode, and I was like, “Fuck, this is brilliant”. And then the second episode, holy shit, it just all ramps up. It’s very, very good.’ Is this – the tricky second album – shaping up to be even better than the first season, then? ‘Sharon said, “I can’t wait to write for you, now that I know you.” Now when I read back the lines I’m laughing, as I know it’s been specifically written for me: extra cheeky and extra wild.’ After filming season one, the five ‘sisters’ are all good friends – ‘We have a very lively WhatsApp group,’ confirms Eve. She adores Sharon, and describes her as ‘truly amazing’. ‘I heard someone say that you’re the average of the people that you hang out with,’ laughs Eve. ‘I hope to hang out with Sharon a lot, so I can become the average of her.’ Aside from London, she divides her time between her home in Dublin, New York and – occasionally – LA. Is it difficult being on the road all the time? ‘Yes, it’s really hard,’ she says. ‘I haven’t had an apartment in four years now. All my stuff has been in storage in New York since the beginning of the pandemic, and I’ve just been moving around in suitcases. You get tired and frustrated by it. And you just want your own bed and your own mattress and your own address, and simple things like your own coffee mug. But also there’s no point in me putting down roots anywhere, because I’ve been lucky over the last few years that I’ve been working a lot. I’m just gonna keep going until they stop hiring me and then I’ll figure out where to live.’ Employment status aside, she sees herself settling in New York, and then maybe Ireland. ‘Later in my life, if I wanted a family I would go to Dublin. But I think, as a working actor, New York is where I feel most alive. There’s theatre, there’s film, there’s TV. There’s so much going on there that on my days off I feel like I’m still absorbing a lot.’ Flora and Son, a feel-good musical comedy-drama, is Eve’s biggest role to date. ‘I just howled laughing,’ Eve says of when she first picked up the script, written and directed by John Carney, who also created Once, Begin Again, and Sing Street.
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Dress Emilia Wickstead White gold diamond earrings Messika
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Top Loewe @ Matches Fashion Skirt Molly Goddard @ Matches Fashion Coat Camilla and Marc Shoes Miu Miu
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Top and trousers Zimmermann Eternal N°5 rings in 18k white gold and diamonds, Camélia Précieux rings in 18K white gold and diamonds CHANEL Fine Jewellery
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Bodysuit Commando Dress Louis Vuitton Boots Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Solo collection 18k gold necklace with white diamond clasp Fope
like the character was so good, and the opportunity was too good for me to pass up just because I was being a scaredy-cat about this one thing. So I decided to put my big girl pants on and just do it anyway.’ She continues: ‘I always say that God blessed me with no voice for a reason. Had I been given the gift of amazing vocals, I would have been, like, gyrating naked on stage at Glastonbury, aged 14, just losing my mind. It’s probably a good thing I didn’t have those chops, because I would have been wild. So I chose acting instead, which actually makes me discipline myself.’ Despite this, Eve sounds fantastic on the film’s soundtrack – and she even ended up co-writing several of the songs that appear on the score, alongside Gordon-Levitt, Carney and Gary Clark. ‘My dad offered to give me singing lessons, but I was too Coat, top and trousers Chloé. terrified,’ she remembers. ‘He Hoop earrings in 18ct gold Tiffany & Co was like, “you know, I can help you if you want”. I was like, “No, I’m good. Thanks.”’ She finds it funny that this film, in which she sings and plays guitar, is her biggest yet. ‘One of my hobbies as a child was songwriting and music,’ she says. ‘And I completely gave it all up for acting, because I became obsessed with it when I was 14. I just left my music stuff behind. And it’s just really funny how this The film is set in Dublin, and is about a single mother, Flora, and her movie brought me back to my childhood, in a full circle way. And it teenage son, Max. Encouraged by the Garda to find her son a hobby to happens to be one of the biggest moments in my career so far.’ keep him out of trouble, Flora rescues a guitar from a skip. But when So after Flora and Son launches, and Bad Sisters season two wraps next year, what’s next for this rising star? As well as acting, she’s interested Max isn’t interested, she ends up taking it up herself, signing up for in the directing/writing/producing side of things, too. video music lessons with a Los Angeles-based guitar teacher (played ‘I think the more I work, and the more experience I get watching by Joseph Gordon-Levitt). Flora is an unforgettable character: mouthy, opinionated and directors that I really love, especially the female directors who I’ve hotheaded, she’s a troubled soul who struggles to connect with her gotten to work with – I’ve grown really close with some of them – I son. ‘That character was just in me,’ says Eve. ‘Some characters you just absolutely feel like that’s meant to be my next step. I would also have to try to find, and some just jump out of you. Flora was definitely love to maybe one day start a production company.’ brewing in me for many, many years.’ Whatever she does – whether in front of or behind the camera – In the film, Flora sings and plays the guitar. Unsurprisingly, given with that energy, that spark and thirst for grabbing life by the balls, you know that Eve isn’t going anywhere – in fact she’s only just begun. who her parents are, Eve’s childhood was ‘really musical’: she played piano and drums, and had her own band. But the biggest challenge Flora and Son is out on Apple TV on 29 September. Interview and shoot for her was actually the singing. ‘I hated singing – it was one of my took place before the SAG-AFTRA strike. n biggest fears. So that was an emotional hurdle for me. But I just felt 98 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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Jumper, dungarees and metal, glass and strass earrings, metal and glass ring CHANEL TEAM Art Director: Fleur Harding Prop stylist: Michelle Lester Make-up: Lisa Houghton @ Walter Schupfer Management Hair: Dayaruci @ The Wall Group using R+Co Manicurist: Charly Avenell using Chanel Le Vernis in 161 and Chanel La Crème Main Video: Tracer Ital @ Adrenalin Photographic. Fashion Assistant: April McCarthy
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TO
PHOTOS: PEXELS
OR NOT TO
Should brands have more purpose than just returning profit to shareholders? B Corp-certified brands certainly think so. Having just become one itself, C&TH’s editorial director LUCY CLELAND meets her fellow B Corps to discuss community, collaboration – and challenges
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C
ountry & Town House is now a B Corp – and is the first glossy magazine in the world to become one. We have a B Impact Assessment (BIA) score of 92.3 (an average score for businesses is around 50 points, to give you some perspective). Points are hard won; crushed like pills into halves, quarters, eighths, sixteenths even as you eke them out by making your business kinder, more equitable, more socially impactful and better for the environment; not perfect, of course, but absolutely striving for higher standards. For those of you who know about B Corp, I’m feeling a wave of metaphorical pats on the back, which I’ll gratefully take. It took a leap of faith to get down and dirty in the weeds of our business (and kudos to Greenheart, the consultancy who held our hands throughout). Not heard of B Corp? You’re not alone. After all – out of 5.5m registered UK businesses, only 1,400 are B Corp certified (although London has the biggest concentration of any city in the world with 700). From a quick personal poll, feedback ranged from, ‘Does that mean you can’t fly on a plane anymore?’ from the editor of a broadsheet supplement (thinking I should now be only wearing hessian sacks), to, ‘Wow, that’s great,’ from my mum, who when pressed, admitted she didn’t know what it meant but was delighted all the same. But let’s rewind. B Corp stands for Benefit for all Corporations. B Lab – the nonprofit network that gives the certifications – has the lofty ambition of changing economic systems through the creation of standards, policies, tools and programmes that shift the behaviour, culture and structure of capitalism. B Corp businesses are intended to go from profiting only the few to benefiting all; from concentrating wealth and power to ensuring equity; from extraction to regeneration; and from prioritising individualism to embracing interdependence.
FROM TOP LEFT: C&TH’s July/August issue dedicated to sustainability; Deploy is a super high scoring fashion brand, founded by Bernice Pan; Rathfinny, founded by husband and wife, Mark and Sarah Driver
(Phew, I took that from its communications directive.) Taking out the jargon, it’s about businesses which, yes, want to make profits, but also want to do good in the world through consideration of the wellbeing of people, planet and their communities – and they are legally bound to do so by amending their Articles of Association. B Corp’s poster child is Patagonia, the American outdoor-wear brand. Its founder, Yvon Chouinard, recently made waves by announcing that instead of selling the company or taking it public, he would transfer it to a non-profit organisation that would ensure that its profits are used to combat the effects of climate change. For all the positive news stories it spawned, the negative ones were just as prolific, the backlash being caused by Chouinard allegedly avoiding a $700 million tax bill by giving it away. Then there has been the headline-grabbing furore whipped up by Nigel Farage when he was debanked by B Corp bank Coutts and the blowback over the fact that brands such as Innocent can gain accreditation even when they’re owned by the world’s biggest plastic polluter Coca-Cola. It’s also – somewhat persuasively, if cynically – argued in books such as Anand Giridharadas’ 2018 bestseller Winners Take All that corporations (of which he includes B Corps as part of the movement of business as ‘a force for good’) who try to step in to solve the world’s greatest problems tend to employ the same solutions that got the world into the mess it’s in in the first place. And all the while they still serve their own profit purposes
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and divert criticism from the broken systems from which they themselves are benefiting. So, there’s no doubt that B Corp can get tangled up in our all pervasive culture wars. It’s not easy being green... but if you understand the intensity of work and the level of detail that goes into becoming a B Corp, it would be churlish to dismiss it as phoney – and damaging to bring it down. The fact remains that businesses who feel compelled to do better for people and planet are (in the main) doing so to fill a void left by successive policymakers who have failed to address these crises. Historically, businesses have not factored in how protecting/regenerating the environment, paying living wages, including minority groups, using sustainable supply chains etc can play a part in helping us continue to live more equitably on this planet and therefore carry equal value to profits. Many businesses, indeed industries, have thrived from taking too many natural resources from the earth and not replenishing it; pumping the atmosphere with the greenhouse gases required to produce lots of stuff we do not need, which gets wasted or dumped in landfill, and exploiting people in doing it. Just look at the fashion industry… B Corp provides a framework for businesses to look at themselves and their communities more forensically. B Lab, too, is in constant dialogue with its critics and keeps developing the BIA
system. In fact, according to Thomas Bourne at Greenheart, Version 7, which launches next year, ‘will mean that companies wanting to certify will need to meet a set of non-negotiable requirements across ten core topics – this differs from the current approach in which companies are able to reach the 80+ points required for certification in a flexible way across the five areas of the BIA.’ We set out on our path to become a B Corp after the pandemic afforded us that particular time to ask ourselves what we could do better. It was at least two years’ work, some financial outlay on consultancy fees, ensuring London living wages were being paid and for enhancing policies such as maternity leave etc, and a microscopic look under every stone of the business to see what lurked beneath and could be improved upon in terms of social and environmental impact. It made me curious to meet some fellow B Corp businesses, hungry to discover what their reasons were for doing it, and whether there was a road ahead paved with (green) gold. And so I canvassed over 20 of them, mostly from the food and drinks, fashion and beauty industries but also from travel, communications and agencies. Firstly, if you believe what you read, statistics seem to stack up in B Corps’ favour on growth. On the B Corp website it says that B Corps saw an average growth of 26 percent between 2017 and 2020 vs the average for all UK companies of five percent. This seems to play out. Fashion brand Deploy, for example, which has an astonishing 149.5 score, says sales are up 50 percent year on year, and Katie Lopes is evangelistic about how putting sustainability and
JOIN THE B CORP MOVEMENT Why brands chose to become B Corps
Deploy FASHION
‘From its inception, Deploy was designed to be a force for good. This was an accreditation enabling us to showcase that dedication to positive impact in granular detail.’ deploy.com
Krī Skincare BEAUTY
‘Being certified helps demonstrate those values to our customers and stakeholders.’ kriskincare.com
Journeys With Purpose TRAVEL
‘We chose to become a B Corp so that we could actively build credibility and trust among all key stakeholders in the company and ensure we were accountable for how our company operates.’ journeyswithpurpose.org
Rathfinny Estate WINEMAKER
‘Making sustainable, long-term decisions is part of our DNA but we didn’t know you could put a label on it like B Corp certification.’ rathfinnyestate.com
Sep Jordan FASHION
‘We wanted an independent assessment that what we say is actually what we do.’ septhebrand.ch
Kooky FOOD
‘Our brand has a strong social angle, is a corporate sponsor of Women for Women International and part of 1% for the Planet. We are driven by our values and researched a lot on B Corp before even launching our brand.’ iamkooky.com
The Uncommon DRINKS
‘We find a lot of B Corp businesses look to stock B Corp suppliers. It’s a standard they know and trust spanning all industries.’ wearetheuncommon.co.uk
Baukjen FASHION
‘As a high scoring B Corp we are trailblazing the way for other fashion brands, so we can make a true impact on the planet and within a damaging industry.’ baukjen.com
Isle Of Wight Distillery FROM ABOVE: Sep Jordan, founded by Roberta Ventura; The Uncommon co-founders Henry Connell and Alex Thraves
DRINKS
‘The most tangible benefit is having the B Corp logo on our products.’ isleofwightdistillery.com
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A HELPING HAND Need a kickstart on your B Corp journey?
1
GREENHEART Founded by the truly passionate Thomas Bourne, and with a crack team around him, their kind, patient and fun guidance makes everything much easier to understand and they always have an answer for every question. They offer bespoke consultancy for larger and more complex companies. greenheartbusiness.com
2
BUSINESS ON PURPOSE For smaller companies (sub £2m), Andy Hawkins uses a cohort approach with sessions taking one hour per week across three months. This has proven to be an excellent formula to make progress in a practical and extremely cost-effective way for only £300 per month. businessonpurpose.uk
3
POSITIVE PLANET In order to drive down your carbon footprint, you have to measure it, keep tracking it and put in reduction targets – and be kept accountable. Positive Planet helps you do that and puts in place your net zero strategy. From £2,000. positiveplanet.uk
B Corp front and centre of her underwear brand Stripe & Stare has really helped drive a compound annual growth rate of 980 percent over the past five years. Other brands I spoke to found it trickier to align their growth directly to their B Corp status but, of course, growth is not the prime motivator. As the founder of skincare brand SBTRCT, Ben Grace, points out, ‘I think you become a B Corp because it aligns with your values and what you want to achieve as a business, beyond profit.’ These businesses have other perhaps less tangible but just as important social and environmental purposes (each B Corp business has to publish an annual impact report publicly outlining exactly what its impact has been so there is transparency, plus they have to recertify with a higher score every three years). There are though positive financial benefits from being part of an ethical supply chain. For drinks business The Duppy Share, it knows that the corporates that it sells to all have ambitious corporate social responsibility (CSR) targets and therefore understand that, ‘if we can tick a box for them by making their range more sustainable, then that’s a big win over our much richer, better known competitors who struggle with sustainable practice or implementing an accreditation like B Corp so late in their existence.’ This is also true for peppermint farm Summerdown Mint. ‘A large international brand [unable to be named due to a confidentiality clause] specifically chose us to supply them with essential oil because of our environmental credentials,’ asserts Jo Colman, Head of Sales and Marketing (and scion of the Colman mustard family). It seems that the real boon of
FROM ABOVE: Stripe & Stare, founded by Katie Lopes; Summerdown Mint’s Head of Sales and Marketing, Jo Colman; Amy Smith, Chief Strategy & Impact Officer of ethical shoe brand Toms
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B Corp, though, is the community and the opportunities for collaboration. While public awareness, all brands admit, is sorely lacking – ‘more education needs to be done for customers to better understand the benefits of shopping from B Corp businesses,’ says Amy Smith, Chief Strategy & Impact Officer of ethical shoe brand Toms, which pioneered business-style charitable giving with the launch of its ‘Buy One, Give One’ model – the access to other like-minded brands has led to fruitful relationships. ‘We’ve been able to partner on exciting projects with some other brilliant B Corps who we admire greatly,’ says Mahira Kalim, founder of cleaning brand Spruce. ‘It has helped us find creative solutions to sustainability challenges as we learn from fellow members,’ adds Ishwari Wadekar from Devonbased Naturalmat, producer of the most sustainable mattresses you’ll find. Not all is warm and fuzzy in B Corp land, however. One fashion brand founder I spoke
FROM ABOVE: Mahira Kalim, founder of cleaning brand Spruce; With Nothing Underneath, founded by Pip Durell
to (who wished to remain anonymous) was despairing about how truthful customers really are when it comes to the reality of shopping responsibly. ‘We all like to look like we’re doing good,’ she tells me on the phone, ‘but behind closed doors, it’s a different story. We ultimately make decisions that are better for ourselves than the environment. People keep looking to brands to make change but the customers themselves don’t care. They mind about whether they can get a bargain and whether they’re going to look good in it. How an item was made means nothing to anyone.’ Yikes! But this almost makes the argument that businesses really do have a duty to do better – and make ‘being ethical’ seamless and the first choice for customers – we just need more and more businesses to step up to make that happen. It can then, it seems, feel lonely and dispiriting being an ethical business leader. But when the world is literally burning around us, it’s hard to fathom why businesses wouldn’t want to be part of positive action to make things better – alongside many other much-needed cogs in the wheel such as the citizenship movement advocated by Jon Alexander, who calls for people in institutions, and positions of existing power, to give some of that power away and bring people into the decision-making processes that affect them. That’s why we at C&TH wanted to get involved. We don’t presume anything so hubristic as wanting to change the world, but we do find ourselves in an environment that promotes vast over-consumption of stuff and a constant need for the new over everything. We therefore hope to use whatever influence we have to tweak our editorial messaging towards a more considered lifestyle, spotlighting people, products and brands that sing of a less extractive and damaging future – and to do it in a beautiful, optimistic and inspirational way. So to me, B Corp is a no-brainer – it’s about our own accountability and engendering a different way of thinking and I would urge other businesses to consider joining. Change comes in tipping points and critical masses. What’s stopping you? bcorporation.uk n
JOIN THE B CORP MOVEMENT (continued)
Seep
HOUSEHOLD CLEANING
‘I used to look for the B Corp logo on packets in the supermarket as a sign that a brand walked the talk so it was a no brainer for me to sign up to be a B Corp as soon as I set up Seep. ’ theseepcompany.com
Plank Hardware INTERIORS
‘We actually found that the interiors industry is far behind others [in ESG terms] such as fashion and food/drinks, which is why we see the opportunity in being a leader in our space.’ plankhardware.com
Elemis SKINCARE
‘We wanted to be a B Corp because we wanted to stand out to our customers and show them that we are always striving for better. We will be transparent and take everyone on the journey with us and being part of the B Corp community helps us learn and move forward.’ elemis.com
Toms
FOOTWEAR
‘The B Corp certification process helps you to better understand your business and identify risks and opportunities.’ toms.com
Borough Broth FOOD
‘It’s great for creating goals for continuous improvement.’ boroughbroth.co.uk
Muddy Puddles CHILDREN
‘B Corp helps to build credibility and trust and we can use the certification to help demonstrate our mission and brand values to our customers.’ muddypuddles.com
Spruce
HOUSEHOLD CLEANING
‘B Corp is a way to make sure we are holding ourselves fully accountable for every decision we make from choosing our packaging and ingredients, to how we choose our suppliers and partners.’ wearespruce.co
With Nothing Underneath FASHION
‘We were already fulfilling what we saw as essential practices to be an “ethical” company but among the greenwashing in the industry it’s hard for the consumer to see the wood from the trees.’ withnothingunderneath.com
Naturalmat BEDDING
‘One of the most eminent benefits of being a B Corp is having a significant amount of competitive advantage with our retail as well as trade customers.’ naturalmat.co.uk n
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22/08/2023 09:44
I Captured the
CASTLE
PHOTOS: © BROADHOUSE MEDIA
Inheriting a castle might indeed be the stuff of dreams – but for Jason and Demetra Lindsay it was a reality. They’ve since restored Hedingham Castle into a real fantasy escape for guests, finds JANE KNIGHT
Jason and Demetra Lindsay inherited Hedingham Castle in 1998
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t’s the stuff of dreams: when you’re 12, your father unexpectedly inherits a Norman castle in Essex and your passion for the place means that you end up taking it over even though you have older siblings. It could also be the stuff of nightmares, especially considering the rundown state of Hedingham Castle when Jason Lindsay moved there in 2004 with his wife, Demetra, and baby daughter. A grand affair in Tudor times, the castle complex had fallen into ruin, leaving little more than the Norman keep – a burned-out shell following a fire in 1918 – across a Tudor bridge from a dilapidated 18th-century mansion. Years of restoration and renovation later, the Lindsays have just added a bedroom at the very top of the keep, the only one in the five-floor castle. Up some 106 steps, the Royal Chamber is a majestic affair, with an ornately carved four-poster on a raised wooden platform, a bath for two secreted in a large cabinet and deep window recesses in 12ft walls. It’s a unique chance to bed down with history, in a castle besieged by King John in 1216, which Henry VII visited for a week in 1496, and where Matilda, wife of Stephen (who ruled England from 1135 to 1154), died in 1151. ‘Like the rest of the castle, it was a never-ending project,’ says Jason, a distant relative of the de Vere family, the earls of Oxford who built Hedingham in 1140 on land William the Conqueror gave to Aubrey de Vere. ‘The knock-ons were hilarious: heating, insulation, bathroom…’ An art dealer by profession, he carries out much of the work himself, both in the extensive grounds and within the castle. Meanwhile, Demetra, an architect, is responsible for getting all the necessary consents to work on such a historic building.
‘We giggle about the fact that I am an architect and that is why Jason chose me to be his wife,’ she says. ‘You do have to be absolutely passionate about it. It’s a bit of a vocation.’ The painstaking restoration would not have been possible without grants. Money in 2012 from the Historic Houses Foundation enabled them to tackle the keep’s electrics, plumbing and banqueting room, which, with its enormous 28ft by 20ft arch and minstrels’ gallery, makes a superb wedding venue. When Covid came and the wedding business disappeared overnight, another grant and the gift of time meant they could give what Demetra calls a ‘massive injection of love’ to the keep. Stonework was repaired, windows and doors replaced, and an escape room game added at the top of the castle on the same floor as the Royal Chamber. Although artisans were employed, the Lindsays also proved extremely adept at castle DIY, incorporating bargain finds and upcycling furniture. That ornate bed in the Royal Chamber? ‘We found it on eBay,’ says Jason. He made the raised platform beneath it using wood salvaged from Essex’s Southend pier following a tip-off from the chef Jamie Oliver that it was available. The pier’s timber also provided the door to the banqueting hall below. Oliver isn’t the only celebrity guest to have helped indirectly with the restoration. ‘It’s a bit of a name drop but Matt LeBlanc [the Friends actor] was here and noticed a crack in the beam,’ says Demetra, pointing to the roof of the castle’s basement. The beam now has a steel joist in it, supporting the floor above. Back in the bedroom, if you look closely at the cabinet holding the bath at the foot of the bed, you can pick out the profile of a lady who
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PHOTOS: © ANDY GRIFFIN; © TREVOR LEIGHTON
Is this the country’s most romantic bedroom?
looks a bit like Cleopatra staring at a gentleman who could be from the Georgian era. ‘Jason carved what was supposed to be my profile on a piece of partially carved furniture he used to make the cabinet,’ Demetra says with a laugh. She adds that it was the hardest item to get up all those spiral stairs – it was carried by ‘very grumpy men who needed lots of chocolate afterwards’. As in the castle, the Lindsays used a variety of resources to restore the nearby 18th-century mansion in which they live – some of which is also available for hire – and the grounds outside. Demetra made some of the curtains and they hung the yellow silk on the walls in one of the public rooms themselves. The drawing room was given a makeover by a textile company that needed a showcase for its materials. And the garden’s restoration was sponsored by a production company; the steps leading down to the lake were recycled from London’s Liverpool Street station. Everywhere you go, you can see the couple’s devotion to the estate and their creativity in caring for it, as well as an enormous amount of hard work. ‘Living here is very much like living with a great aunt – a very demanding great aunt,’ says Demetra. ‘We absolutely love it.’ BOOK IT: The Royal Chamber is £595 B&B, including a
bottle of champagne. With dinner for two, the price is £1,195. hedinghamcastle.co.uk n
LAY SIEGE
More great British castle stays
1 2
ROCH CASTLE, Pembrokeshire A Norman castle on a volcanic outcrop, Roch has been given a modern makeover by localboy turned architect Keith Griffiths. Expect a glass sunset terrace, a sitting room in the old courtroom and six suites, one of which is in the round tower and is almost circular. Doubles from £200 B&B. rochcastle.com
MINGARY CASTLE, Highlands A restaurant with rooms in a medieval castle sounds special even before you see the huge fortification on a rocky sill on the Ardnamurchan peninsula. The interior holds art and antiques, four suites, and a restaurant where chef Colin Nicolson cooks up a storm. Doubles from £280 B&B. mingarycastle.co.uk
3 PHOTOS: © ANDY GRIFFIN; © TREVOR LEIGHTON
THORNBURY CASTLE, Gloucestershire Sleep in the room Henry VIII stayed in with Anne Boleyn at this majestic Tudor pile, where even the standard bedrooms are magnificent. Turrets, crenellated walls and arrow slits embedded in the walls are all there, but so too are palatial rooms and oriel windows. Doubles from £289 B&B. thornburycastle.co.uk
4 Demetra and Jason Lindsay
AUGILL CASTLE, Cumbria A Victorian-folly of a castle, Augill comes complete with towers and battlements outside, and a grand wooden staircase, Jacobean oakpanelled walls and ornate ceilings within. Bedrooms might have turrets for wardrobes or floor-to-ceiling, stained-glass, gothic windows. Doubles from £240 B&B, stayinacastle.com n
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The
HEAT IS HEATING
T
wo years ago this October, the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy published a paper entitled Phasing Out the Installation of Fossil Fuel Heating in Homes Off the Gas Grid. ‘Our homes are a key part of our national heritage,’ it read. ‘They have helped shape and define us as a society. They reflect our culture and environment, and change over time with new tastes and technologies, and to meet new priorities.’ But, it explained, they are also ‘responsible for around 23 percent of our national carbon emissions and generating heat accounts for the vast majority of this. Decarbonisation of heat is recognised as one of the biggest challenges we face.’ Fair enough. We all know something must be done. But its proposal to
‘end the installation of new fossil fuel heating’ in the 1.1 million UK homes – about six percent of households – that lie off the gas grid ‘from 2026’ is concerning. When your oil-, coal- or LPG-fired boiler reaches the end of its life, you won’t be able to replace like with like, and if you live in a historic, or one of the half-million or so homes that are listed (astonishingly Historic England, which maintains the National Heritage List for England, admits on its website to not knowing exactly how many there are), there is very little out there in the way of practical alternatives. The government is recommending a ‘heat pump first’ approach to replacement heating systems. All well and good, except that they only work in well-insulated homes. And retrofitting sufficient insulation in a listed
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
Phasing out fossil fuel heating in our homes may be the right way, but it’s not the easy way, reports CLAIRE WRATHALL – especially if you have a listed building on your hands
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property is challenging because of the requirement for Listed Building Consent (LBC), which you also need to install an air source heat pump. ‘Development [is] not permitted in the case of the installation of an air source heat pump installed within the curtilage’ of a listed building, reads clause G.2 of the Town and Country Planning Act. And the same goes for an array of solar panels, even on an outhouse or an outlying part of the garden. (Nor, incidentally, does ‘permitted development’ apply to unlisted properties if you want to put a heat pump on a pitched roof, even if it’s visible to no one on the incline of a butterfly or valley roof, though oddly they’re allowed on flat roofs.) Resigned to the fact that the days of the oil-fired boiler that heats our family’s Grade-II listed detached cottage are numbered and anxious both to be able to keep warm in winter and do the right thing, we first commissioned an EPC rating. For the moment, listed buildings don’t have to have one if you sell or let, but last March, Sarah Olney, the Lib Dem MP for Richmond Park, proposed a private members bill that would require all buildings to reach EPC band C by 2033 (though she did at least ‘very much urge local authorities to look’ at what Robin Millar, Conservative MP for Aberconwy, called ‘planning rules which prevent easy modification and adaptation’ and asked if ‘we should move to an easing of planning regulation to allow efficiency improvements in listed and conservation building stock’). My house was rated E, better than I’d expected. But the report’s findings did not inspire confidence. For instance, it recommended internal insulation of the brick walls. Had the inspector looked at the walls or read the listing, he would have seen that the house is a timber-framed (its beamed interiors are a clue!) former farmhouse ‘which could date from the 17th century [to which] a brick casing was added in the 19th century’. Infilled with daub, the walls are already 35cm thick and not the worst leacher of heat. He recommended increasing the loft insulation – a good idea until he noted droppings; bats cannot be disturbed – and recommended we consult an architect, a specialist in conservation and heritage projects. The architect’s suggestions were no more encouraging. We could apply for permission to install double glazing, but we were unlikely to get it. And were we to get it to install a heat pump – again, by no means a given – we would be advised to install underfloor heating, he said. This would involve ‘excavating the floor, laying 100mm of insulation, underfloor heating pipes and a new stone floor finish’ and would cost approximately £15,000 a room. (There are five on the ground floor, including the 19th-century lean-to kitchen, and four bedrooms upstairs.) The process would also, he warned, ‘be very disruptive’ and necessitate moving out. But most discouragingly, he warned that the whole undertaking would probably result in damp in the walls which the level of heat the pump would generate would not be sufficient to dry out. He did propose removing all the roof tiles in order ‘to add TLX Gold
Multifoil [an insulating breathable membrane] over the existing roof structure from outside the building’ as that would ‘enhance the insulation without altering the internal or external appearance’, though that would disturb the bats, so won’t be an option till they move on. And he did mention secondary glazing, panels of removable glass set against the existing window frames, which even if it’s unsightly from inside, Historic England approves of because it allows the existing windows ‘to be retained unaltered, and there is no loss of historic fabric and the installation is easily reversible’. (You do need to check with the conservation officer at your council, though, because some local authorities insist on LBC for secondary glazing, nevertheless.) It’s not cheap: the ostensibly unobtrusive secondary glazing we’ve commissioned will set us back about £10,000 for seven windows, though that includes low-emissivity Pilkington K glass for, say the installers, ‘optimal thermal insulation’. Assuming we ever get an installation date – our installers have a more-than-six-month waiting list – we are promised that it will reduce our windows’ U-value (the rate through which heat is lost) from 5.8 to 1.6. State-of-the-art triple-glazed units with argon gas between the layers of glass should achieve a rating of 0.9 to 1, but our listed windows would be challenging to reproduce in that form, so LBC would be denied. All that said, there are reasons to be hopeful and to hold one’s nerve because there are technologies in development that may yet be more effective than heat pumps. (And quieter, too, because the constant humming of their fans is also more audible in the country than in a town.) Take Caldera, a Hampshire-based start-up whose mission is to ‘decarbonise heat’ and which has developed a giant highly insulated ‘battery’. Named the Warmstone and standing 1.7m high and weighing 1.7 tonnes, its core can store heat of up to 500oC that can in turn be used to heat hot water just as a boiler does. ‘It’s essentially like a thermos flask,’ says its lead test engineer, Ranulf Slee. It takes energy from the grid, stores it as heat in the core, and then when that heat is required by the home’s central-heating system, it delivers it ‘in a controlled fashion as heating or hot water’. It is not yet available, and, for the moment, says a spokesperson, ‘Our domestic unit is paused while our small team focuses instead on scaling our technology to serve large industrial applications.’ But it has reached a point where it’s safe to deploy into homes of various sizes, for which they have developed software that enables them to monitor the units from a distance in order to understand how they perform ‘in real people’s homes, how efficient they are and really what people’s behaviours are on cold and warm days, and how the units respond to demand.’ Let’s hope Caldera will be manufacturing at scale and Warmstones will be on the market before too long. n
‘There are reasons to be HOPEFUL and to hold one’s nerve because there are TECHNOLOGIES in development that may yet be more EFFECTIVE than heat pumps’
PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
T H R E E F U T U R E - P R O O F E D C O U N T RY H O M E S
Nr Inverness, £375,000 An EPC B-listed terraced house in a charming village on the east coast of Scotland, this has been sensitively renovated with energy saving features such as solar panels. galbraithgroup.com
Dorking, £2.85m An incredible retrofitted Art Deco masterpiece refurbished and modernised to provide low carbon living via air source heat pumps, solar panels, and a three-acre garden with 106 trees. knightfrank.co.uk
Lingfield, £1.65m A beautiful barn from 1763 converted using the highest quality eco-friendly materials and finishes, with ground source heat pump and solar panels. jackson-stops.co.uk
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Run wild and free with C&TH’s guide to country pursuits
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Dress Huishan Zhang Blazer Really Wild Belt Ariat. Boots Le Chameau
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Ethical knitwear brand Herd offers a new take on classic country style. herdwear.co
NEW QUEENS OF COUNTRY STYLE What are the rural set wearing now? asks Eleanor Doughty
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LEFT & ABOVE: Claire Foy immortalised Queen Elizabeth in The Crown; Princess Anne has take over the crown of country style queen
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hirty years ago, the idea of there being a ‘country uniform’ might well have been scoffed at. Country people don’t have uniforms, you’d have said – they just throw on their grandpa’s old Barbour and a pair of wellies, possibly with someone else’s name on. But have those days gone? Today, country dressing is increasingly sophisticated – indeed, a whole industry has sprung up to meet demand for stylish country clothing. There are, says The Times’ fashion editor Harriet Walker, two camps of country dressers. The first is the most recognisable, those ‘more likely to inherit their clothes or find them in the back of a Volvo than buy them’. For 70 years, the undisputed leader of this camp was the late Queen Elizabeth II, whose country style archive – recently rediscovered on Netflix’s The Crown – was legion. So, who has replaced the late queen as the leader of the pack? Princess Anne, says Harriet: ‘Her look is very much like the Queen’s look. When you think about Princess Anne, you think of a Barbour and
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WHERE WILL YOU GO IN YOURS?
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS
THE STYLE RULES
Nail the country look with key pieces from the right brands
CAMPBELL’S OF BEAULY Defender jumper, £175. campbellsofbeauly.com
CHRISTYS’ HATS Farnham trilby, £190. christys-hats.com
the sort of country wear that you wouldn’t have unless you were involved in the rural economy.’ PENELOPE CHILVERS Then there’s the other camp of country dressers – those Inclement tassel who ‘moved out of London during the pandemic and bought boots, £349. everything new,’ says Harriet. ‘It’s all very shiny and quite penelopechilvers.com trend-led.’ Crucially, she says, ‘it looks like the countryside, but it’s had a modern magic wand waved over it.’ There are recognisable codes to this look: ‘Quilting, wellies, chunky knits – but it’s come from a shop rather than a bootroom.’ The pandemic was not the only defining factor for this group. Before Covid-19 there was Soho Farmhouse, and before that there was Daylesford, says stylist Alice Manners. ‘Daylesford created a London-in-theTROY countryside vibe and people needed to be able to dress LONDON Parka, £360. for it. Soho House followed Daylesford and created troylondon.com another subsection of people who needed to have the Soho House country look.’ Some brands have stormed ahead in the country style evolution. ‘Look at what Purdey has done,’ says Alice. ‘They’ve taken clothing, a subsection of the brand, to another level, and become a leader in the country style stakes.’ Holland Cooper, the brand started by Jade Holland Cooper in 2008, has also made a huge impact. ‘So much of that brand is about fit,’ says Harriet, ‘and that’s not really been an issue in country wear until now – it was just something you slung on over something else, a big baggy jumper, probably a man’s. But Holland Cooper is tailored and slim fit, lots of it is very bodycon.’ Really Wild, with its shop on Sloane Square, is among this vanguard of brands who, adds Harriet, offer ‘things that are FAIRFAX & FAVOR The Soho boots, £385; recognisable to the original wearers, but appealing to the incomers The Finsbury clutch, £225. and also to people who live in cities.’ Both Harriet and Alice fairfaxandfavor.com name Troy London – which describes itself as ‘lasting luxury, inspired by the outdoors’ – as another batch to buy. ‘It does a 116 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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JOULES Bramble tweed blazer, £129; Sammie rugby shirt, £59.95; culottes, £59.95. joules.com
PURDEY Estate jacket, £2,100; cashmere turtleneck, £570; shirt, £195; trousers, £495; boots, £675 cashmere socks, £275. purdey.com
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THE LEATHER JACKET COLLECTION WHERE WILL YOU GO IN YOURS? Drawing inspiration from the premium leathers in our footwear the garments in this stunning capsule collection will be life-long partners as they gather their own unique ageing characteristics with wear and time. Expert tailoring married with lightweight quilting gives an elegant silhouette, and with styles suited to both country sports and urban getaways, will offer a lifetime of wear. These jackets and gilets will turn heads wherever you go.
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS WELLIGOGS Wax cap, £35. welligogs.com
STRATHBERRY Midi tote in chocolate, £595. strathberry.com
HOUSE OF BRUAR Cashmere rollneck, £129.95 houseofbruar.com REALLY WILD Portobello coat, £895; jacket, £395; trousers, £325; cashmere crew neck, £375. reallywild clothing.com
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HOLLAND COOPER Marlborough trench coat, £849. hollandcooper.com PHOTOS: PEXELS
country jacket, which if you got caught wearing it in London you wouldn’t stand out,’ says Alice. ‘People’s lives are much more cross-purpose now. I’ll be in the country one minute riding and BARBOUR Bragar quilted jacket, the next I’ll be on the train to London going £159. barbour.com to a dinner, so I need something that can take me both places seamlessly. I think that’s the approach to country clothing now, it’s got to be transferable.’ Some older brands still reign supreme in rural boot rooms and London terraces. In recent years, Barbour has collaborated with the model Alexa Chung. Last year, she described Barbour’s lasting appeal: ‘There’s something very comforting about a brand that rewaxes a jacket for you to keep. I still wear the one my father gave me.’ My own boot room in the middle of nowhere is cluttered with 20-year-old Barbour jackets and Schoffel gilets, DUBARRY alongside well-worn Dubarry boots that have lasted half a Skirt, £239. lifetime, as well as those by Zara Tindall’s favourite Fairfax dubarry.com & Favor, which comfortably and stylishly straddle the town and country line. After all, there is simplicity in old favourites – even if I do covet Campbell of Beauly’s Defender jumper. Alice favours a vintage look: ‘I love looking at old-school 1930s and 1940s style for men and women, and then committing to that,’ she says. ‘I’ve got the most incredible tweed Holland & Holland culottes with a matching waistcoat, which I’d wear with a polo-neck jumper on a shooting weekend.’ However, there’s a lot to be said for real vintage, she says. ‘I’m not averse to finding a TUSTING Greta crossbody bag, pair of tweed trousers in a charity shop and £425. tusting.co.uk making those my staple – some cashmere with a pair of tweed trousers, that’s all you need.’ n
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Timeless CL A S SIC L E ATHER COLLECTION
Our leather range by Le Chameau has been craf ted from luxur y European hides, which in use will naturally age and beautifully patinate. The pieces were shot in Normandy, Deauville, a glamorous seaside resor t, known for horse races, polo matches, f ilm festivals, colour ful parasols and an iconic boardwalk. Much like the location, our boots our timeless. From Chelsea boots to Chukka boots – these staples will see you through day to night.
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS
G A M E OV E R Are traditional country sports staring down the barrel of a gun? asks Jonathan Young
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itting at the back of a chest of drawers is a black-and-white photo of me wearing shorts, gumboots and a Guernsey jumper – standard kit for young country lads back in the 1960s. Inevitably, I’m holding a bow and arrow though it could have been a catapult. I know there’s a pen-knife in my pocket because I always carried one from the age of six, as did every other boy I knew. There aren’t many pictures of me as a youngster because my parents didn’t feel the need to take many. Parental touch was very light then. Children were to be seen and not heard, and preferably neither. The standing instruction was ‘go out and play’ whatever the weather, and so we grew up feral, frequently disappearing for the whole day without any adult supervision. My playground consisted of a large estuary and surrounding meadows, where my closest friend and I spent our days catching butterflies, newts, lizards and slow worms for our collections, in the manner of Gerald Durrell in My Family and Other Animals. Later, we acquired fishing rods, then air-rifles, then small-bore shotguns and became what used to be termed ‘sportsman-naturalists’. Neither of them came from a particularly sporting background but my parents fitted in with the country scene, attended the local fox hunt’s Boxing Day jamboree and watched us gallop after the beagles when they met locally. They could also be persuaded to take an evening trip to the local seaside pier, where we ate chips, and caught mackerel and pollack.
Jonathan Young as a teenager and a ‘sportsman-naturalist’
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were actively managed for shooting, that the sport was worth £2bn to the UK economy and supported 74,000 full-time jobs. There were some unsavoury aspects to this – the demand for ever-bigger bags, (leading to a glut of dead game); the rise of a new type of shooter who had little connection with the countryside or its traditions – but these new shoots brought in millions of pounds to deeply deprived rural areas. Hotels, local services and rural employment boomed. More importantly, the model only worked if the land was managed for game, which meant heather moorland wasn’t buried under trees or sheep, and game cover strips were planted next to monoculture arable crops, giving food and shelter to game, but also songbirds, insects and small mammals. Not everyone benefitted though. Hunts found that increasing numbers The country sports industry of landowners would not allow them contributes millions to the UK economy every year, with on their land until after the shooting supporters buying from British season closed in February. And those brands such as Barbour who could once rely on friendly farmers allowing them to shoot My real mentors, though, were local countrymen who befriended pigeons and rabbits were now told they had to ask his keeper, who me when, like every other teenager, I drank underage in the village inevitably reserved such perks to reward his beaters and other cider house. One noticed that I owned a handy whippet cross shoot-support members. lurcher, so picked me up for pre-dawn raids on the water-meadow However, driven shooting brought in revenue and it seemed hares. Another showed me the foreshore flight lines for wigeon and the transition from hedgerow bashing for a couple of brace of mallard. And dear Everard, whose army greatcoat really was secured pheasants to days when the bag would be tallied in the hundreds with binder twine, explained how to set a wire for rabbits and neatly was unstoppable. break their necks when the ferrets had bolted them into purse nets. And then came Covid and the shoots had to be mothballed. None of this was unusual then. I could walk along the street, Then, after social restrictions were lifted, avian influenza hit Britain gun in a slip, and the only comment would be ‘Have any luck?’ and France in 2022. Due to its kinder spring weather, France had Field sports were integral to country life. The river was so stuffed become our major supplier of pheasant and partridge eggs, and with salmon that, although the netsmen took their share, there were poults. Those imports were banned and shoots struggled badly to plenty left for the gentlemen staying for their customary week at produce birds for the shooting season. This came in the wake of the fishing hotels upriver. Wild brown and sea trout were abundant Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, which massively increased energy and the fishing cheap. The wildfowling was free and, with a polite and feed costs for game farmers. approach, farmers would readily allow rabbit and pigeon shooting According to the annual Game Shooting Census, these factors on their acres. The only form of shooting that was beyond reach pushed up prices per bird shot to £46 ex VAT – a 31 percent increase was driven pheasants, which were the preserve of the landed and in a year. As a result, many driven shoots have closed or scaled the small DIY syndicate made up of professional men and artisans. down bag sizes and the number of days they sell. That sporting landscape, unchanged for centuries, began to Happily, shooting in its older form is seeing a renaissance. People alter in the 1980s. The salmon that once porpoised up my estuary are rediscovering the joy of walking the hedgerows for a dozen were hit hard in the Seventies by ulcerative dermal necrosis, a fatal pheasants with a few friends and a couple of spaniels. Farmers are dermatological disease, and never fully recovered. Water abstraction, again welcoming pigeon and rabbit shooters. slurry leakage and extensive use of nitrogen fertilisers began to But hunting as we knew it was banned in 2004. Fishing and damage trout rivers. Hunting came under increasing political wildfowling clubs struggle to attract the Playstation generation. and activist pressure from its opponents. And shooting began its Global warming is changing our marine and land habitats. And transition from a sport to an industry. Britain is now dominated by an urban culture. The first commercial shoots emerged in the early Eighties. I grew up with countrymen, with rod and gun. They had an In a way it was more democratic. Anyone with a gun and the intimacy with nature that’s rarer now but still vital if wildlife is to wherewithal could now buy a driven pheasant or partridge day thrive in this crowded isle outside nature reserves. and the model spread throughout Britain. An independent survey released in 2014 by the Cambridge-based Public and Corporate Jonathan Young was editor of The Field for 29 years and editor Economic Consultants (PACEC) found that two million hectares of Shooting Times for five n 122 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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PHOTOS: PEXELS; © BARBOUR
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
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AUDLEY HOUSE, LONDON W1K 2ED | + 44 (0) 20 7499 1801 | PURDEY.COM
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Sitting
PRETTY Layer up for the season ahead FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD PHOTOGRAPHER DAN HACK
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Dress Bernadette Jumpers Loro Piana Ear muffs and shoes Longchamp
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Eve (left) wears: Red and blue jumpers John Smedley Skirt Molly Goddard Bag Westley Richards Wellington boots Longchamp Gia (right) wears: Coat Belstaff Top and skirt Hermès Boots and hat Ariat
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Gia (left) wears: Coat and trousers Holland Cooper Jumper Loro Piana Boots Erdem Sunglasses Purdey Blanket Holland & Holland Eve (right) wears: Suit and sunglasses Stella McCartney Scarf Sabina Savage
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Coat Erdem. Jumper Campbell’s of Beauly. Shorts and socks Loro Piana. Wellington boots Fairfax & Favor x Le Chameau
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Bikini and hat Medina Coat and socks Dubarry Wellington boots Le Chameau
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Gia (left) wears: Jacket Crow & Jester. Jumper Campbell’s of Beauly Shorts Chanel @ Hardly Ever Worn It Boots Ariat
TEAM Hair and make-up: Jo Gillingwater at One Represents using Redken; Équinoque de CHANEL and No 1 de CHANEL Revitalising Serum Fashion Assistant: April McCarthy Models: Eve Delf at Select Model Management & Gia at Titanium Model Management
Eve wears: Jumper Troy London Top Alberta Ferretti Boots Jimmy Choo
Shot on location at Ashdown Farmhouse, available to book through kiphideaways.com
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS
A. A. Milne’s former home was a dream location for our country style shoot
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&TH ’s fashion director Nicole Smallwood found that this idyllic 16th-century Sussex farmhouse, with its glowing russet-coloured brickwork, fringe of emerald wisteria and vibrant gardens, was the perfect setting for this issue’s Sitting Pretty shoot. Nestled in the heart of the Ashdown Forest in Sussex, the six-bedroom house was formerly the home of A. A. Milne, who wrote the beloved Winnie The Pooh books. It has been beautifully and sympathetically restored to retain its original, quirky charm, while keeping modern luxury and comfort at the forefront. Outside, the glorious grounds – perfect for picnics or garden parties – feature a rhododendron terrace, tennis court and outdoor pool.
Live out your dream country lifestyle in luxury
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Stepping outside, you’ll find yourself immersed in Winnie The Pooh’s stamping ground – Hundred Acre Wood (aka the Ashdown Forest). Here, adults can get lost in nature, and kids can build dens and play Pooh Sticks without a screen in sight. What’s more, the house’s owners are passionate about preserving this ancient woodland, and give ten percent of their profits each year to its conservation. For those lucky enough to stay at the farmhouse, beauty treatments are available on-site through a mobile therapist, and a private chef can also be arranged for dinner parties and evening soirées. Further afield, the house’s prime location in the heart of Sussex means that there are endless things to do: take in al-fresco opera at famous Glyndebourne; tour one of three award-winning local vineyards, Bluebell, Rathfi nny and Artelium, where you can sample the best English wine; salvage your own antiques at the renowned Ardingly Antiques Fair; or head to nearby Charleston for exhibitions and inspiration. BOOK IT: From £1,000 per night, three or seven nights. kiphideaways.com n
PHOTOS: PEXELS
ON LOCATION
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS
A M E AT Y Q U E S T I O N
I
recently began eating meat after a five-year hiatus. Bleeding heart vegetarian though I was – I’d gone veggie after a visit to a Greek meat market – I was always a bit reluctant about it. Not because of the usual barrage of excuses (‘but bacon is nice’, etcetera) but simply put, because it’s hard. Being off the animal stuff, you’re constantly chasing macros and minerals in a bid to manage your nutritional needs. I wasn’t particularly good at this chase, so it’s no surprise that, half a decade later, a visit to the doctor was met with an urgent need to change my diet after one read of my iron levels. However, there’s no doubt that we shouldn’t be eating as much meat. Avoiding animal products is, according to the scientists behind a 2018 mega study, ‘the single biggest way to reduce your impact on planet Earth’. The meat industry is responsible for over a fifth of all global greenhouse gas emissions, and it’s been proved to have a far greater environmental footprint than plant-based food. According to the UK’s Climate Change Committee we need to collectively cut our meat consumption by 20 percent to hit ambitious carbon reduction targets. What’s more, a recent study by the University of Oxford found a high meat-eater produces an average of 10.24kg of planet-warming greenhouse gases each day, whereas a low
meat-eater (whose daily intake is 50g or less) produces almost half that at 5.37kg per day. Collectively, as a nation we seem to understand the need to cut down on our meat consumption – a third of Brits set about to reduce their meat-eating at the beginning of this year, many motivated by the environment, and then some by ethics. Yet the global meat industry is likely to reach record highs and grow by 1.4 percent throughout 2023. So it appears that we’re all a bit confused – our values and our behaviours aren’t quite in total alignment. Is it possible that we’re all looking for a bit more of a compromise, much like my own concession to my body’s nutritional needs? We still want (and in my case, need) to eat meat, but we want to eat it better, more ethically, more carefully. I’m not going to ask you to break up with bacon, say sayonara to steak, or chide you for your chicken wings. That would require a fundamental habit shift that most of us aren’t willing to make and, frankly, you’d take me for a preachy ex-vegetarian. But there might be a bridging solution for diehard carnivores that’s a little more local, a little kinder – and that has the potential to address vital ecological issues on our shores. I’ll let you make up your own minds. Enter: game meat.
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
Tessa Dunthorne is back on the meat. But how to eat it with integrity? Perhaps it’s by heading to the wild side…
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PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
We need to eat less meat – could game fill the gaps for people unwilling to give it up entirely?
In theory, it’s a neat answer to more sustainable meat consumption. As Elystan Street chef and co-owner Phil Howard says, ‘It’s a no-brainer, given that it is so abundant in this country.’ And yet 72 percent of us currently don’t eat it. Why is that? From a nutritional standpoint, it makes sense to eat game meat. According to scientists writing for Meat Science journal, wild-shot meats have a ‘very good chemical composition’, thanks to a good balance of saturated fatty acids and a high protein content. The British Association for Shooting and Conservation (BASC) points out that game meat is especially rich in omega-3s, iron, vitamins E and B6, beta carotene, zinc, and selenium. Its carbon credentials are also good: The Vegan Society estimates that game meat is responsible for a quarter of the amount of CO2/kg versus untrimmed beef. Then there’s its benefit to the countryside – wild venison, in particular. The UK’s deer population is currently believed to be at its highest level for over 1,000 years, thanks to both a decrease in culling during the pandemic and a lack of apex predators. Farmers are reportedly concerned about the havoc herds of deer can wreak upon their crops – causing £4.3 million a year in damages to cereals the country over – and conservationists report that deer harm ancient trees and trample habitats. They’re so prolific, in fact, that Forestry England provided 5,000kg of venison meat to food banks in Devon and Cornwall, as a solution to the cost of living crisis. But are there any downsides? ‘There’s definitely a preconception that it’s harder to cook,’ says chef Theo Clench of Cycene. ‘You’ve got to be much more delicate about it as there’s very little fat covering on wild animals – they tend to dry out quicker.’ (See overleaf for expert tips on how to cook game). There are also some supply issues. ‘Since the bird flu outbreak, people are shooting less season to season,’ says Theo, ‘and it’s quite hard to get hold of the rarer birds sometimes, like woodcock or snipe, as they’re not bred to be shot.’ Also, the majority of our pheasants and patridges are brought over from France (20 million of the former in 2019, eight-ten million of the latter), and introducing non-native species on such a mass scale has potentially serious consequences: DEFRA reported that areas where foreign pheasants had been sighted were less likely to have certain species of butterflies, due to pheasants eating the caterpillars. And there’s a damage to the wild British bird population, too: according to DEFRA, the antibiotics used in game bird rearing has in the past caused antibiotic-resistant bacterial strains to infect our already-struggling native birds. And then there are the risks associated with lead. While a hearty venison stew might be packed with vitamins, it might also come with a spoonful of lead shot. ‘You can do plenty of due diligence,’ says Theo, ‘but we always have to warn our guests that a pellet might get through.’ The UK government is expected to ban the use of lead bullets in game shoots by the end of this year or next, but a lot of game meat is currently shot with lead – although the majority of it is typically removed at the point of preparation by a butcher, which does reduce potential lead poisoning risks. So, should we shun our free-range meat boxes in favour of the wilder side of the butcher’s block? Our best bet is to make considered choices while game is in season (see what’s available when overleaf). As Theo adds, a lot of the questions we have around game meat are the same as we have for any meat – and the answer is much the same, too. ‘It’s down to traceability,’ says Theo, ‘the right suppliers and gamekeepers are careful with lead bullets, they manage the land with conservation in mind, and they protect their [game] numbers. It’s the same as you’d face with fish, or farm-meats.’ September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 135
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THE GREAT OUTDOORS
EATING GAME
THE SEASON
Your practical guide
Rabbit and woodpigeon: These woodland dwellers are available all year round.
WHERE TO EAT
Fallow deer: Easy to spot by their white spots, stags are stalked from the first of August to the end of April, and does for a slightly shorter period between October and March.
COUNTRY
TOWN
Grouse: The Glorious Twelfth marks the start of the shooting season for grouse; they retreat once more in early December. Partridge: Despite the Christmas song, partridges are ground nesters, so not likely to be spotted in pear trees. However, they do begin to appear in game menus from the start of the autumn through to early February, so are not an unreasonable seasonal gift for any poultry lovers.
Old Stamp House, Cumbria In the postcard-perfect Cumbrian town of Ambleside, the Old Stamp House celebrates the bounties of the land with its ultra-precise menu. Head chef Ryan Blackburn won a Michelin star in 2019 for inventive use of local – and wild – meat. Expect to catch us tucking into pheasant shot just down the road at Carmel Valley. oldstamphouse.com Paul Ainsworth at No6, Padstow, Cornwall The seaside village of Padstow harbours many foodie gems. Paul Ainsworth at No6 is just one of these destination restaurants, but what a destination – the Michelin-starred dining space is little but punchy, and promises inventive menus to pore over. paul-ainsworth.co.uk
The Game Bird at The Stafford This hotel restaurant has a firm focus on local, seasonal British produce, with attention paid to game meat. Exec chef Jozef Rogulski has collaborated with the Northcote’s Lisa Goodwin-Allen for the menus here, and they’re the perfect mesh of classic and creative. thestaffordlondon.com Elystan Street After closing his two Michelin-starred restaurant The Square, much to the disappointment of the capital’s foodies, Phil Howard opened Elystan Street. His diners weren’t disappointed for long. Ultraseasonal and ingredient-led cooking takes centre stage at Elystan Street, as does game meat. Oh, and he’s also the co-owner of Kitchen W8. elystanstreet.com
Kitchen W8 Kitchen W8 feels almost hidden, tucked away as it is just off Kensington High Street. The restaurant is headed by chef Mark Kempson, who has a particular reputation for wizardry with game meats – and for this, the Michelin starred-dining room is a 2024 finalist in the Eat Game Awards. kitchenw8.com
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Pheasants: Not the brightest animals in the world, you’re likely to notice these seemingly doing their best to run under the wheels of your car. Their shooting season starts in October and ends in February.
THE RECIPE
How to Cook Game ‘Game is almost always very lean, so it doesn’t appreciate being overcooked. Ask your butcher to truss grouse, pheasant and partridge with bacon. Roast for ten minutes on a high heat (180°C) and the rest on low (about 130°C). Make sure you rest game birds well. Ten minutes for small birds, and 20 for bigger – the meat relaxes and retains juiciness. Wild ducks can be kept a little more pink than pheasant and partridge. All game is delicious with mashed root vegetables. When it comes to rabbit, hare and wild boar, I’m a fan of ragu. It’s a slow cook, but it’s worth it. Lastly, treat venison with the same respect and cooking time as you would the most expensive sirloin steak or joint.’ Phil Howard, Elystan Street. n
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Ox Barn at Thyme, Cotswolds Eat in a converted former ox barn at this charming restaurant in Gloucestershire. Headed up by ex Quo Vadis chef, Charlie Hibbert, the menu focuses on hearty superseasonal British fare. thyme.co.uk
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Gavin Gardiner Limited ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Auctioneers of Fine Modern and Vintage Sporting Guns, Rifles and Accessories
Fine Modern and Vintage Sporting Guns Auction: 15th November 2023 Final Call For Entries
J. Purdey & Sons. A fine pair of 12-bore lightweight self-opening sidelock ejector guns, built in 1930 and little used. Estimate £20,000-£30,000
The auction market remains strong with record levels of overseas interest for the best vintage and classic sporting guns and rifles. Recent success demonstrates the continued strength of the market. The sale will include over 250 lots of fine sporting guns, rifles and shooting accessories
Tel 01798 875300 www. gavingardiner.com
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Auction at Pulborough,West Sussex: Entries for this important sale close at the end of September. Please do not hesitate to contact us to arrange your private appointment and free valuation of your guns. With over 40 years auction experience we are ideally placed to achieve the very best prices, whether it is a single item or a collection.
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Stripes are having a moment – make a statement with yours with this striking Studio Stripe fabric in moss from Buchanan Studio. £120 p/m, buchanan.studio
ON DESIGN
Edited by CAROLE ANNETT
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Your in-depth dive into a world of interiors inspiration, design and homeware
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ON DESIGN
159
Contents 142
DESIGN NOTES
146
BACK FOR MORE
148
SPACED OUT
Todhunter Earle revisits an old project Pieces that are outof-this-galaxy good
150
WOMAN ON A MISSION
EDITOR ’ S LET TER
Fighting fabric pollution in the interiors industry 154
A HOME FOR LIFE
156
OCEAN WANDERERS
Behind the doors of reimagined warehouse
A
We may need to brave the seven seas in the future
159
CARTE BLANCHE
162
ROBO-POT
164
SHAPING THE FUTURE
168
GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY
When interior designers are given free rein Watch out designers – Ai-Da is coming for your jobs... Bathrooms get freshened up
Ceramics’ second coming 170
HAPPY PLACE
172
DESIGN MOMENTS
Beautiful bedroom ideas With Louise Bradley
142
nd suddenly it’s autumn! Doesn’t time gallop – soon we’ll be in the midst of the design and decorating shows and events including London Design Festival (16-24 September), and Focus/23 (18-22 September). If you feel like venturing out, they look set to be bigger and better than ever. Futuristic design is the theme to this special interiors section, with an emphasis on planet-friendly products. I chat with Nina Marenzi of The Sustainable Angle about textile production and the urgent need for a material revolution, page 150, while Tessa Dunthorne dives into how design is envisioning humanity’s watery future as sea levels rise, page 156. As well as our round-ups of new fabrics and furniture, the trend page, 148, focuses on space age ideas. Ai-Da Robot, the world’s first robot artist, has moved into the sphere of household homeware – take a look and see what you think of her efforts on page 162. Thankfully, the human skills and personal touch of an interior designer cannot (yet?) be handed to a robot and this issue’s case studies prove it – inspiring, eclectic, modern and inviting. On page 159, a sophisticated, contemporary family home by OWN LONDON utilising every inch of space, a refresh by Todhunter Earle for a house in need of a rethink once children have flown the nest, page 146, and on page 154, an extraordinary workshop by architect McLaren Excell, whose team leave bare the bones of a building in specific areas so the past can be celebrated along with the new. Clever stuff. I hope you find something special in these pages.
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PHOTOS: PEXELS
150
What’s caught Carole Annett’s eye this season?
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T RY I T I
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T h e R i v i n g t o n D i n i n g Ta bl e
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DAVIDSONLONDON.COM +44 (0)20 7751 5537 sales@davidsonlondon.com NEW SHOWROOM Find us in Chelsea London, SW10 0RJ
Image Credit Nikki Bisiker Interior Design
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CHARM PERSONIFIED Sofa upholstered in Toile Chinoise blue, £82 p/m; cushions in Brook Stripe, £58 p/m and Hector Blue, £69 p/m. colefax.com. Vaughan wall lights and shades. vaughandesigns.com
JUST LANDED Luna wall light in blanched plaster, from £1,098. portaromana.com
DESIGN NOTES
What’s caught Carole Annett’s interiors eye this season
1 Louise Bradley Petrified wood side table, £349. louisebradley.co.uk
2 Loaf Heyday desk, £795. loaf.com
HEAD FOR HEIGHTS
1 A pretty perch for a sculpture, cocktail or coffee cup 2 Pop a mirror on top and a desk becomes a vanity unit 3 A wheeze for place-anywhere furniture
3 Buchanan Studio Muse table, from £12,000. buchanan.studio
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ON DESIGN NEWS MILITARY PRECISION Studio Atkinson’s British-made Sassy bench features its own Three-Stripe fabric, £1,400. studio-atkinson.com
LIGHT IT UP
Make a statement with a printed lampshade
ON A ROLL
Hare’s Tail original fabric designs have been replicated as wallpaper, with the same look and texture of hand block-printed fabric. Lucy’s India, £220 p/roll. harestail.co.uk
ANDREW MARTIN Primrose pollen honey lampshade, £159. andrewmartin.co.uk
BELL HUTLEY Hand painted rainbow shade, £85. bellhutley.com
TOTALLY DISHY
Pencil Porcelain by artist Jenny Dyson mixes the tradition of Willow Pattern china with her own contemporary twist. Porcelain picture plate, £75. pencilagency.com
CABANA X OKA Arabesque paprika shade, £450. oka.com
JOHN LEWIS X MATTHEW WILLIAMSON Zebra lampshade, £25. johnlewis.com
BEETLING AROUND
‘Queen of colour’ Sophie Robinson’s new collection for Harlequin is inspired by her country home and includes this dazzling Jewel Beetles design with an emerald backdrop, £95 p/m. sandersondesigngroup.com
COUNTRY HOUSE CHIC
Nina Campbell’s Sudbury print is beautifully autumnal – large, decorative acanthus leaves interspersed with flowers and leaves embroidered on a herringbone ground, £155 p/m. osborneandlittle.com
BLOOMSBURY REVISITED Acorn shade. £115, bloomsburyrevisited.co.uk
SOPHIE HARPLEY Geraniums lampshade. £105. sophieharpley.co.uk
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ON DESIGN NEWS
GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT
Pipe Dreams is a new range of restored vintage pieces from Colours of Arley founder, Louisa Tratalos, and designer Jess AlaviEllis. Vintage chair upholstered in recycled weave and recycled smooth velvet, £1,245. coloursofarley.com ROOM FOR TWO Olivia love seat in Rhubarb, £2,250. neptune.com
THE ONLY WAY IS CHELSEA
Based in Felsted, Essex and renowned for its kitchens and bathroom, Humphrey Munson is opening a sister space at 583 King’s Road with a new contemporary kitchen design on display. From £60,000. humphreymunson.co.uk
TANGTASTIC Oron dome lamp, £110. sazy.com
SPIN A YARN
The Jocasta Collection is the first fabric range from Sister by Studio Ashby, inspired by crafts and ancient traditions from around the globe, and realised alongside sustainable supplier, Yarn Collective. Patch fabric, £170 p/m. studioashby.com
COCKTAIL TIME
Davidson London’s Regis drinks cabinet juxtaposes high-gloss quilted black maple and shimmering pearl marquetry – a sleek and modern aesthetic, £44,950. davidsonlondon.com 144 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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Handmade in England Design Centre Chelsea Harbour samuel-heath.com
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BACK FOR MORE
‘T
his is the third iteration of the house for the same client,’ explains Kate Earle, one half, along with Emily Todhunter, of their eponymous studio. ‘When we first did it 20 years ago the client had young children. We made some changes when they were teenagers and now that they have grown up and moved out, the house needed to work for my client and her changed lifestyle.’ Occupying a corner of a quiet London street, the house has bedrooms on the lower and ground floors, and reception rooms on the first and second. ‘It’s an upside-down house,’ laughs Kate. A dining room sits above the kitchen and overlooks an informal eating area – a few years ago Todhunter Earle obtained permission for the addition, linking the drawing room to a dining space. ‘It’s a very welcoming space, great for large parties where both floors, and the roof terrace above, are used,’ explains Kate. In its new guise, the client requested a whole house refresh with emphasis on her own bedroom along with the addition of storage space and an overall boost of colour. ‘We turned the playroom into a gym, the second master bathroom into a large dressing room, created a calm and elegant bedroom, and a very feminine bathroom,’ says Kate. Mindful of the need to reuse and recycle, Kate says, ‘We didn’t rip out anything that could be adapted or updated, we painted the stairs and skirtings that had previously been oak, recovered chairs and changed the kitchen worktops but left the cabinetry. As a studio, we are very aware of not being wasteful and repurposing where we can.
We buy a lot of antique and vintage furniture, which we mix with contemporary pieces.’ One of the features in the client’s refreshed bedroom is a chest bought 20 years ago from David Gill gallery when Todhunter Earle first designed the house. An example of buy once, buy well, a silver-gilded chest by Garouste & Bonetti adorns the space between two double-height windows. A mirror above reflects hand-painted linen by de Gournay decorating cupboard doors on an opposite wall. When it came to colour, the client was drawn to hues that appear naturally in the tree-lined streets of surrounding parks and gardens. Guided by this, the studio chose a strong, leafy green to decorate the study, a perfect backdrop to the client’s contemporary art. ‘We wanted a colour that would make her smile while working late at night and early in the mornings,’ explains Kate. Green also features in the refurbished bathroom: ‘Aphrodite marble has a wonderful vibrancy with hints of violet and lots of white. It’s a brave choice but we have only used it on the floor and vanity – it makes a strong statement in an otherwise neutral environment. We used terrazzo in a complementary green in the shower.’ The mirror behind the basin is a medicine cupboard with room for copious bottles along with individually tailored inserts in the marble vanity drawers for the client’s creams and make-up. Polished plaster walls offer a subtle contrast to the extravagant marble, ‘with a hint of mica for luminosity,’ adds Kate.
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PHOTOS: © PAUL MASSEY
Having reimagined this family home several times over many years, Todhunter Earle was invited to return once again after children had flown the nest. By Carole Annett
ON DESIGN CASE STUDY
PHOTOS: © PAUL MASSEY
When it came to the sitting room, Todhunter Earle wanted to make it feel different to its previous incarnation – softer and more cosseting. They achieved this by opting for an arc-shape sofa by Sedilia, a renowned London-based maker which controls the entire creative process under one roof. ‘We prefer to work with UK-based manufacturers and artisans wherever possible,’ says Kate. Adding a curved sofa and organic, vintage side tables softens the room, creating a comfortable and cosy ambience for drinks in front of the fire. A Luke Irwin rug, Conran coffee table and Christian Liaigre slipper chair (recovered in blue textured leather) complete the scheme. When it came to window dressing, Todhunter Earle opted for an elegant, paredback feel. ‘I like to hang curtains as high as possible to maximise the feeling of height in a room,’ says Kate. ‘By using eyelets the soft folds can almost touch the ceiling and sheer fabric drapes so beautifully – it doesn’t take up much space in a room where there are lots of windows’. Well considered and beautifully executed, just like the rest of the house. Todhunter Earle can tick this one off – I don’t think they will be returning in a professional capacity for a long time to come. Head to countryandtownhouse.com for more images of this project; todhunterearle.co.uk n
Green is a colour used throughout the refurbishment, inspired by the leafy London streets and parks nearby
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ON DESIGN CASE STUDY SELFRIDGES Seletti resin UFO lamp, £255. selfridges.com
ST JAMES INTERIORS Dhan desk, £POA. stjamesinteriors.com
OCCHIO Luna series, suspended luminary, £POA. occhio.com
VICTORIA + ALBERT BATHS Cabrits bath, from £4,419. vandabaths.com
SPACED OUT Step into the future, says Tessa Dunthorne
RIVIERE RUGS Biot, woven in Hand Knotted finish, £861/m2. riviererugs.com
DAVIDSON LONDON The Crayon Table, £6,088. davidsonlondon.com
LIME LACE Yomi Eko inflatable sofa, £700. limelace.co.uk
VINTERIOR 1960s Italian Elda Chair by Joe Columbo in black leather, £8,500. vinterior.co DAVID LINLEY X JONATHAN YEO Yeo daybed, £120,000. davidlinley.com
D OW N TO E A R T H
CRAFT ‘As our lives become increasingly automated, just like the obsession with classic cars, people will long for beautiful hand crafted furniture. They’ll commission pieces that are 100 percent humanmade with no machine intervention, which will be a rare skill to find.’ Najwa Mroue, Atelier NM
TECH ‘We can imagine that in the future, even our furniture will be connected to our phones and smart automation systems… Dining tables with built in screens to access emails, TV stands that project 3D interactive screens, and more.’ Pritesh Lad, St James Interiors
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PLANET ‘We’re already seeing people trying to reuse furniture consciously, and we’re getting a lot more questions about the provenance of pieces. How they’re made, where they’re made, etcetera. We imagine that in the future we’ll get more ecoconscious.’ Fiona Barratt-Campbell, FBC London
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Interiors experts tell us what they think the space age will bring to our homes
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INTERIOR ARCHITECTURE - INTERIOR DESIGN - FURNITURE - FABRICS - ACCESSORIES louisebradley.co.uk
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ON DESIGN PLANET FIRST
so that brands, designers and sourcing teams understand why materials are more sustainable. How do you choose who to showcase? When we started, we had
WOMAN ON A MISSION What’s the future of fabric? asks Carole Annett
strong criteria on biodiversity, water, energy, and waste. Now it’s driven by certifications. Brands want certifications both from suppliers and makers. Some of those to look out for include: Cradle to Cradle Certified, Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex, Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), Fairtrade Certified and Canopy. What’s the end goal? Working with materials that, after being used, can either be made into different products, or they can go back into the soil, disintegrate and decompose without leaving a polluting and toxic soil. Does interiors have any additional issues than those in fashion?
FROM TOP: Dumped fabrics are is piling up around the world; Nina Marenzi, founder of The Sustainable Angle; Stella McCartney bag made from Bananatex
T
wo of the biggest issues surrounding the interiors industry are waste (wrap.org.uk estimates 670,000 tonnes of furniture and 310,000 tonnes of textiles are thrown away by householders annually) and a reliance on cotton and plastics. Nina Marenzi is the founder-director of The Sustainable Angle, a not-for-profit initiating and supporting projects that aim to lower the environmental impact of the textiles industry. What’s the story? After completing my masters in agriculture, I researched materials presenting a low environmental footprint but no-one was telling the fashion industry. I launched the platform in 2010 to connect sustainable suppliers, mills and innovators with the fashion industry and support initiatives that help reduce environmental impact. It was soon clear we needed to reach out to interiors, too. How do you get the message out? Future
Fabrics is our main project, a series of trade exhibitions providing educational information on materials with a lower environmental footprint alongside a showcase of fabrics and leathers. Everything is labelled and explained
Because of current legislation, much of the furniture produced today is sprayed with chemicals like flame retardants, which are toxic. People need to be aware of their environmental impact. Big companies have to deal with the flame retardant issue, it’s law. But can we be a little bit more nuanced? We should push for a reduced amount of petrochemical-based materials and look for alternatives. We also need to create customer awareness; for example, Ikea is one of the biggest partners in various environmental initiatives but still driving overconsumption. What needs to be done?
DIVERSIFYING THE FIBRE BASKET 1 Tencel is one of the main partners of The Sustainable Angle, at the forefront of creating sustainable fibres for fashion and interiors. tencel.com 2 Bananatex exemplifies the shift towards ecofriendly materials, grown within a natural ecosystem of sustainable mixed agriculture and forestry. The plant is self-sufficient, requires no pesticides, fertilizer or extra water. It’s used by Stella McCartney (left). bananatex.info 3 Flax and hemp are natural alternatives to cotton, cultivated without synthetic fertilizers. europeanflax.com
It’s a design approach as much as a materials approach. Not just choosing a material but looking at how it is processed: what types of dyes are used? If a sofa is to be discarded, can any of it be easily dismantled and re-used? Christopher Raeburn is working with Timberland on a circular design that allows boots to be fully disassembled and recycled at the end of their useful life. Furniture should be the same – able to be dismantled and become a new product or recycled at the same quality. What’s exciting you? Anything from agricultural waste. Waste shouldn’t exist – it doesn’t exist in nature. It needs to be the feedstock and materials for the next phase of production. This is a whole redesign we’re living through and it’s full of opportunities. thesustainableangle.org n
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ON DESIGN PLANET FIRST
SHORE THING
Soho Lighting’s collection of pendant lights is made from old, recycled fishing nets provided by Fishy Filaments, and other recycled plastics brought to life through 3D printing. Each light is printed to order and available in a choice of bulb holder finishes. Emerald green pendant, £255. soholighting.com
PLASTIC FANTASTIC
The HÅG Tion chair by Flokk is made from mostly recycled and renewable materials like post-consumer plastic and recycled aluminium, while wood versions use responsibly sourced timber. It has also been designed without glue, allowing for easy disassembly, and all parts can be repaired or replaced, maximising the chair’s lifetime. Back in Action HAG Tion office chair, from £441. backinaction.co.uk
WELL SPOTTED Pappelina rugs are woven in a small, family-owned weaving mill in Sweden. Its Bio Edition rugs are woven from carbon-neutral, biosourced material originating from tall oil, a residue in the papermaking process. Vera, from The Woodland Collection, from £222. pappelina.com
MATERIAL GIRL Jules Haines launched her pioneering platform, Haines Collection, for the resale of unwanted textiles, wallpaper, lights and accessories that would most likely be headed for landfill. Haines Curates brings together a curated community of eco-conscious designers who place environmental impact and waste reduction at their heart. hainescollection.co.uk
MOTHER LOVE
Fabrics, furniture and homeware ideas that put the planet first BANG BANG
These Miena washbasins from Kaldewei are 100 percent recyclable steel enamel, made from Bluemint steel that reduces carbon output by 64 percent. From £778.80. kaldewei.co.uk
SEW AND SEW Toast Renewed is a collection of creatively repaired pieces created from returned or damaged items from Toast shops. Previously these items would have been sold through sample sales and outlet shops. Clothes that are not able to be repurposed through Toast’s Circle initiative will be donated to Traid for it to be responsibly reused. toa.st
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ON DESIGN CASE STUDY
A HOME FOR LIFE
A forward-thinking architect studio has transformed an old warehouse into a home that allows for a thriving work-life balance – with plenty of space for hobbies An industrial factory was deftly transformed into a contemporary home
‘O
ur client approached us through Modern House online estate agency,’ explains Rob Excell, founder of architectural studio McLarenExcell along with Luke McLaren. ‘They hoped we’d be able to transform a colossal 6,000-plus sq/ft, old industrial factory into a contemporary family home.’ Breathing life into existing structures is like adding sugar and warm water to yeast for the duo – it’s what they do. ‘We recognise that each project, client, and property presents an opportunity to create a fresh and exhilarating piece of architecture,’ says Rob.’ Camden Workshop has been masterfully conceived and fulfils an unusual brief, accommodating a diverse array of work and down-time pursuits including brewing, weaving and candle-making. Hence the ground floor is laid out as a series of workshops, with units dedicated to different activities. A member of
the family is mad for volcanoes, so a darkroom was conceived with textured black walls and twinkling ceiling, shining like far-away sparks. The house needed wheelchair access and initially rated rock bottom on energy efficiency, ‘We stripped back the entire structure and reengineered it to ensure the clients could live comfortably throughout the year, also adding a lift,’ says Rob. Work and activity spaces cover the ground floor, including an enclosed garden dotted with beehives. Upstairs is designed for cooking, eating and sleeping. In the kitchen, the team repurposed timber flooring as wall and ceiling panels and designed cupboards using MultiPly timber board. One wall is exposed brick, which chimes perfectly with a putty-hue travertine-cloaked island and knobbly linen covering a seating area in one corner. ‘When the clients purchased the house, the brick was concealed under plasterboard and green paint. We stripped it back and applied limewash to restore original character and texture,’ explains Rob, ‘It allowed us to reconnect with the building’s industrial roots and reveal its beauty.’ At McLarenExcell, interior design and architecture go hand in hand from the start. ‘The coordination of material, colour, texture and finish is crucial for achieving a cohesive design unifying the architectural and interior elements,’ explains Rob. Camden Workshop sits in the sweet spot of the studio’s aesthetic: a building celebrating the past while ensuring a clear juxtaposition with the new. They also recognise that true homes are lived in. It’s a winning formula. mclarenexcell.com n
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Nina Campbell
Introducing our new collection in American walnut, leather, and brass
Nina Campbell made by Bosco London 020 7591 5797 furniture@ninacampbell.com 43 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8NE
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ON DESIGN CASE STUDY
FROM ABOVE: A floating Maldivian city, designed by Waterstudio; project Blue Nomad, created by students from the Institut auf dem Rosenberg alongside SAGA Space Architects
OCEAN WANDERERS
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t’s 2050. Our sea levels have risen by 12 inches, and our coasts take on a rugged, different shape. London is exposed to regular flooding – Bermondsey and Battersea are no longer riverside spots so much as riverbed itself. Island nations see much more devastating effects, with populations forced into denser living at elevation. Perhaps, though, as the land retreats, we are not forced backwards. Perhaps, in lieu of living on solid ground, we take to new terrain – we take to the water. Whole communities board boats, and set out for nomadic lives as sustainable seafarers. This is the vision for future living imagined by the younger generation. Cautious of what a changing climate might offer them, Swiss students from the Institut auf dem Rosenberg have collaborated with SAGA Space Architects to develop ‘Blue Nomad’, a prototype for self-sufficient life at sea (saga.dk). Displayed at the London Design Biennale 2023, students between six and 18 years old worked over the course of a school year to create commercially feasible prototypes of the modular and portable home. The sleek and curvaceous floating house contains compact living 156 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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quarters alongside aquaponic farms and smart living features. All the homes are energy efficient and powered by renewable sources, such as solar. Maybe living on the waves isn’t so far away. Rosenberg students are not the only ones who’ve been designing with this future in mind. Blue Revolution Hawaii proposes a form of living that is harmonious with the sea (bluerevolutionhawaii.org), and floating cities have been developed as a proposed solution for rising sea levels in areas of the world like the Maldives by Waterstudio (waterstudio.nl). MAST developed a modular design for floating homes last year that repurposed plastic waste for buoyant living spaces (mast.dk). The students, with Blue Nomad, are the latest in a line of those reimagining how we create our homes in an uncertain future. As SAGA Space Architect ask: ‘imagine landing a rocket on a planet no human has set foot on before – how would we build the first house?’ Blue Nomad attempts to answer how we start again in a changing world – on a terrain that’s perhaps a little closer to home. n
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Could climate change mean we need homes that adapt to water? asks Tessa Dunthorne
24/08/2023 16:36
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ON DESIGN CASE STUDY
CARTE BLANCHE
Jorge Khawam and Harshida Gadhiya of OWN LONDON chat to Carole Annett about being given free rein to create a contemporary home in West Kensington
O
Statement marble in the master bathroom
WN LONDON is a multidisciplinary studio which spans the fields of architecture, spatial planning and interior design: a one-stop-shop for any project from small private residences to large commercial developments. ‘We start with the principle that anything is possible,’ explains head of design, Jorge Khawam. Here the client’s brief for their terraced townhouse included three essential elements: to reconfigure main living areas for multi-functional use, to add in an extra bedroom and bathroom (they have three children and wanted each to have their own room) and to turn the small, dark rooms into light-filled, open-plan spaces. ‘There was a high level of trust bestowed on us by the client, which allowed us to make informed and creative choices on their behalf,’ explains Jorge, ‘the success of the project is testament to that.’
The key challenge was to balance a need for space, while maintaining a sense of cohesion and harmony. Over the course of a year, the team reconfigured the property to suit the family, creating a basement playroom, laundry and loo, a ground floor formal living area and kitchen, master bedroom, bathroom and family sitting room on the first floor and at the top, three children’s bedrooms and a shared bathroom. A U-shaped garden flows around the property. Once walls were removed, the stairs were widened and original cornice replaced with shadow gaps to enhance the feeling of light and space. OWN LONDON is renowned for its modern, eclectic approach: ‘We love to bring in the unexpected,’ says Harshida, ‘like metallic-front kitchen cabinets which patina over time from the natural oils in your hands’.
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ON DESIGN CASE STUDY
Furniture and furnishings were sourced from small British suppliers, and antique auctions
White Crittall doors divide the reception room and kitchen where Carrara marble in a bold geometric pattern covers the floor. The natural stone hues sit beautifully with the silver travertine of the worktop and light-reflecting warmth of liquid-metal cupboards. Statement marble is also a highlight of the main bathroom which is like entering a forest glade. It is accessed via a door in a section of fluted wood panelling along a wall in the master bedroom. An air-conditioning unit and other essential but ugly service paraphernalia are all hidden behind the sleek frontage. Upstairs, clever use of space creates a third bedroom. ‘We managed, through very thorough space planning to add an extra room and it is very, very small,’ says Jorge, ‘we even created a pull-out bed underneath so friends can stay.’ The back wall, where the head of the bed lies, is all storage. ‘We added a bit of
playfulness with a fabric-wrapped panel on the wall, it injects warmth,’ adds Harshida. OWN LONDON sourced all furniture and decorative pieces for the house. They have their own supplier for sofas and armchairs so seating can be personalised for depth and height preference (the sofa here is upholstered in a Romo fabric) and the team actively seek out small suppliers such as Norfolk-based Laura Huston who makes ceramic lamps. ‘We mix and match diverse elements to create a visually stimulating space,’ says Jorge, ‘We visit auctions and fairs and often buy without knowing where things will be used. We fell in love with the burr wood Art Deco bedside tables as soon as we saw them. They came from a European hotel that was closing down.’ The client fell in love with them too and ones originally earmarked for the room were used elsewhere. The same happened with three carved north Indian print blocks that adorn niches along a wall originally intended for hanging pictures. ‘It’s sometimes only when you go in and start to install that things fall into place,’ says Hashida. When it came to the Alejandro Correa artwork in the reception room, Jorge had no doubt. ’He’s a Venezuelan artist from New York who paints these very cool, eclectic pieces. There is so much pain in there – I fell in love straight away. It’s an angel with an aura and it’s as if he is trapped within the square of the frame. It adds that punchy element to a room that makes you stop – hate it or love it, it stays with you when you leave the room. And that’s what we wanted.’ ownlondon.co.uk n
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Discover more online www.cphart.co.uk 0345 600 1950
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New collections in all our showrooms
08/08/2023 17:52
ON DESIGN TECHNOLOGY
ROBO -POT Are AI-generated interiors the new design frontier? asks Tessa Dunthorne
S
he entered the art scene in 2019 to a great deal of fanfare and press. No, this wasn’t the latest ingénue hailing from the Central St Martins graduating cohort, nor some unknown name suddenly met with critical success. Ai-Da is the product of a lab rather than a studio, the world’s robo-artist who sees with cameras in her eyes and thinks thanks to an AI chip in her ‘brain’. She is multidisciplinary, creating paintings, sculptures and poetry – and now Ai-Da has branched into homeware. Her collection of household items – mostly comprising one-of-a-kind prototypes – were displayed at this year’s London Design Biennale, and are still available to purchase, price on application. From cutlery to vases, Ai-Da has collated the perfect space-age tablescape. The pieces, which appear veiny and porous, are inspired by the likes of the Bauhaus movement, Leach Pottery in Cornwall, and Picasso’s
Ai-Da is the world’s first ultra-realistic robot artist
Madoura works. While they attempt to be functional, all of the works contain fatal flaws which render them useless – jugs with holes in the sides, for instance. The project raises ethical questions. Her work is not completely her own. Like most AI, she will draw from the thousands of human artists that have come before, which means concerns about plagiarism and accrediting work are valid. But most artists are inspired by those who preceded them, and many designers similarly take stock of industry trends – nothing, after all, is created in a vacuum. And this technology is only getting better and better. So who knows? Perhaps we will be purchasing pottery and pans from android artists in due time.
Ai-Da’s works are inspired by homewares, but each piece contains an intrinsic flaw that renders it unusable
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ON DESIGN BATHROOMS
CLEAR THINKING
With ClimatePartner (climatepartner.com), Clearwater is on a mission to reduce carbon emissions. Its newest collection combines simplicity and elevated sensory experience. Kano shower control with Irving glass shower enclosure, Thallo shower tray and brassware, £7,730. clearwaterbaths.com
WASTE NOT
The MEM range of tap handles has been designed in collaboration with NatureSquared, an ethical brand which uses natural materials, often from fishing and farming, that would otherwise be considered waste. From £3,037. dornbracht.com SWITCHED ON
This Southwark pendant light from West One Bathrooms was created with sustainable luxury pioneer Elvis & Kresse, which makes goods from rescued fire hoses and leather off-cuts from brands like Burberry, greatly reducing the amount of waste that goes to landfill. From £337. westonebathrooms.com
SHAPING THE FUTURE
ALL AGLOW
David Hunt Lighting wall light, IP rated for bathrooms, brass with polished chrome finish. Use with an LED bulb for maximum energy efficiency, £174. davidhuntlighting.co.uk
A new era of bathroom design is grander (without the bling) and grounded in good design
CLEANER AND GREENER
Reimagining the classic pedestal shape, this Totem basin has a sculptural inverted pyramid design and slate-inspired texture. Made from Akron, the basin is antibacterial, highly durable and impact-resistant. From £999, ripplesbathrooms.com
Vitrium by Christian Werner for Duravit juxtaposes materials with interesting visual and tactile qualities: hardwearing washbasins made from DuroCast UltraResist, a console vanity unit with fine metal frame and a choice of fronts made from backlit glass or wood. ‘The starting point for the design concept was a rigorous interrogation of the habits we take for granted. With Vitrium I sought to redefine the design of the bathroom,’ says Christian. duravit.com
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VISIONARY
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Consciously Crafted British Kitchens
88A Acre Lane, London, SW2 5QN
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020 7095 1795
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ON DESIGN BATHROOMS
OUT OF SIGHT
‘Adversity nurturing creativity’ is how designer Sebastian Conran explains his friend Monty Ravenscroft’s idea for Hidealoo, a retractable toilet, the design for which Conran helped refine. It was born primarily out of a need to help Monty’s bedridden father needing more dignity in a converted downstairs room. Hidealoo can tuck under a basin, fold into a wardrobe or simply hide away. From £1,125 (+VAT). hidealoo.com
UNDERSTATED GLAMOUR
Combined with natural materials such as wood and marble, light-reflecting tiles provide a warm, luxurious sheen. ‘The antique finish of these tiles gives the appearance of a rich and aged patina,’ says CP Hart director of design Yousef Mansuri. Reflet Aurore by Minoli tiles, £1,080 per sq/m. cphart.co.uk
TICK BOX CLEAN BY ALBERTO LUTZU The designer at West One Bathrooms, Clerkenwell, offers advice on how to check a manufacturer’s eco-credentials. westonebathrooms.com
ROOTED IN MINIMALISM
WELL BALANCED
‘The start of an elegant serenity,’ says Philippe Starck of his new Bento Box Series. Like a Japanese lunchbox, the unit is divided into wet and dry areas – everything easy to see and on hand. Made from DuraCeram, which enables a thin yet robust rim. duravit.co.uk
ARTISAN TOUCH
Drummonds’ classic cast iron baths can be ordered in a hammered bronze finish. The exterior is wrapped in sheet brass and hand-beaten with mallets to create undulations. Usk bath, £14,340. drummonds-uk.com 166 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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MATERIAL Consider what the product is made of. Modern luxury needs sustainable thinking and action. MANUFACTURING How is the product made? What is the associated energy use and what chemicals are used in the process? Is there waste material and how is it disposed of?
3
LIFECYCLE Can the product be recycled at the end of its lifecycle? A long product life combined with recyclability is the premier class, because then a product will have delighted an owner for decades before it starts its journey again as a raw or valuable material and is born again without any reduction in quality.
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DURABILITY Will this product stand the test of time?
DISTANCE Where is the product manufactured and how far has it travelled? RESPONSIBILITY How eco-friendly is the manufacturer? Look for eco-credentials and certifications and ask about recyclable packaging. n
PHOTOS: PEXELS
Forme is a brassware collection from Samuel Heath rooted in contemporary minimalism. The Birminghambased company is committed to best practices in sustainability, including removing single-use plastic. Forme classic basin filler with cross taps, polished nickel, £1,308. samuel-heath.com
24/08/2023 16:39
THE DECORATIVE
FAIR BATTERSEA PARK LONDON
AUTUMN 3-8 OCTOBER 2023
ANTIQUES, DESIGN & ART FOR INTERIOR DECORATION DECORATIVEFAIR.COM DF_Country andFair.indd Town House AUT 23 298 x 225.indd 1 Decorative Art 1
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GET YOUR HANDS DIRT Y
PHOTOS: © SARAH HOGAN PHOTOGRAPHY; © JENNY HARPER; © JASPER CASEY; © PETER MARTIN; © JOSEF KONCZAK
The growth in popularity of ceramics has meant a resurgence of community studios and nationwide classes. Clare Wood, artistic director and chief executive of the upcoming British Ceramics Biennial chats to Carole Annett
Work by ceramic artist Dan Kelly
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ON DESIGN INTERVIEW Why does pottery remain so popular? Clay is a primordial material
and ceramics is one of the oldest art forms in the world. There’s an immediacy to working with clay, and it has huge potential for creativity. Ceramic craft is also a huge part of our cultural and industrial history, particularly in Stoke-on-Trent, and that should be celebrated and preserved.
PHOTOS: © SARAH HOGAN PHOTOGRAPHY; © JENNY HARPER; © JASPER CASEY; © PETER MARTIN; © JOSEF KONCZAK
It’s the British Ceramics Biennial this autumn. What can we expect? Expect a huge celebration of clay and its creative potential
for storytelling, playfulness and even activism. We’ll bring together the rich heritage of The Potteries [in Stoke-on-Trent] with the work of leading contemporary artists working in ceramics, to inspire people to experience clay for themselves. What are the upcoming highlights? This is the first Biennial that I’ve programmed, and I’m excited about all of it. Visitors will see a huge breadth of work in the home of British ceramics – work by well established artists at the height of their career alongside work by artists who are just starting out; it’s the only event of its kind. We have a new hub, the Arts & Crafts style-All Saints Church, ‘built by the potters, for the potters’. Award, the flagship exhibition, takes place here with new work by ten leading ceramic artists, including: a series of pots by Dan Kelly telling the story of his life in London; Carrie Reichardt’s mosaic-covered vintage car; and Copper Sounds’ ceramic sound installation. Also, Fresh, an exhibition showcasing 25 new talents, many showing work in public for the first time. Six names to look out for? Emilie Taylor is responding to the postindustrial landscape of Staffordshire through a series of large-scale slipware pots referencing Stoke-onTrent’s iconic bottle kilns, revealing a narrative informed by local people.
Clare Wood, head of the British Ceramics Biennial
Multidisciplinary artist and writer Osman Yousefzada, whose practice is informed by migration and rituals shaping our lives, is creating an installation in a partner venue, The Potteries Museum & Art Gallery. Down the road at AirSpace Gallery, William Cobbing shows a series of films, sculptures and a performance piece. Artist Nina Thomas has an animation commissioned in partnership with Animate Projects exploring the experience of deaf workers in the ceramics industry. We have an international partnership with the Indian Ceramics Triennale, and through this, artist Neha Pullarwar is coming to Stoke-on-Trent in the lead-up to the Biennial to make new work. Neil Brownsword, who’s been involved with the Bieannial since it began in 2009, has a solo exhibition at the Brampton Museum in neighbouring Newcastle-underLyme. He will be bringing attention to the early ceramic industry of Newcastle-under-Lyme, which can at times be overshadowed by the clay heritage of Stoke-on-Trent and also working with us to create a series of limited-edition art works, which will be for sale. It’s not normally possible to buy his work, so this is really special. Where can we have a go? We always have a hands-on project space at the Biennial, so visitors can have a go at making ceramics when they visit. And of course, there’s a whole new world of online tutorials out there.
Nexus (2022) by Rebecca Griffiths
Sleeper (2022) by Dorcas Casey
Our Lady of Lockdown (2021) by Emilie Taylor
The eighth edition of the British Ceramics Biennial is in Stoke-on-Trent from 23 September to 5 November 2023. britishceramicsbiennial.com n
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ON DESIGN BEDROOMS
CURVES ARE COOL
Why be square? Naturalmat’s low-profile Budleigh bed has a rounded silhouette, solid beech frame and oversized wooden bun feet made from sustainable timber. Cushioned with several layers of recycled denim, it’s topped with breathable organic wool. Seen here upholstered in bouclé. From £1,260, naturalmat.co.uk SPOT ON A statement lamp for the bedside table instantly elevates a bedroom interior. New for autumn, David Hunt’s Bobble table lamp in Persian blue and juniper green, £295 (shade sold separately). davidhuntlighting.com
THE BIG FINALE Beautifully soft linen feels luxurious when you lay your head to rest (and is even better when it’s not ironed). Being Collection by Ilse Crawford for Hästens. Pillowcase, from £180; bedding, from £610. hastens.com
HAPPY PLACE
Make the most of your bedroom to help hit that full eight hours
PRIVATE VIEW
Beautiful dreams are a given when you sleep with your favourite artist. Savoir can upholster, customise, and align some of the world’s finest paintings onto its beds using digitally printed fabrics in a collaboration with The National Gallery. The Monet bed features Bathers at La Grenouillère by Claude Monet. £23,375 including traditional hand-made mattress, topper and bedlinen. savoirbeds.com
GET THE LOOK
For a modern country house vibe, choose a contrast design such as floral and small checks for the front and back of curtains. Langley floral (front of curtain) from the new Burford collection by GP&J Baker. From £197 p/m. gpjbaker.com 170 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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PHOTOS: SAVOIR © THE NATIONAL GALLERY
SUBVERTING STEREOTYPES Sheila Bridges’ Harlem Toile design lampoons stereotypes of African American experiences. From £75, gingerlily.co.uk
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PRESENTS
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ON DESIGN INSPIRATION 2
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DESIGN MOMENTS Interior designer Louise Bradley on her sources of inspiration
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NATURE
My childhood was spent mostly in the countryside and has left an indelible mark. A lifelong love of horses and dogs and a deep appreciation of nature keeps me grounded. I am happiest walking in the natural world with my dogs. I would say that my love of nature influences the spaces I design and infuses my choices of textures, materials, and colour palettes. Wherever possible I like to bring the outside in with the use of natural materials, unusual timbers and finishes layered together with beautiful fabrics.
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TRAVEL & CULTURE
I find Shanghai particularly inspiring. The ultra-modern skyline of the Bund contrasting with the period architecture on the opposite side of the Huangpu River – representing the coming together of the past and the future of this vibrant city. In particular, Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Her vision brings together a simplistic, classic outline and a strong feminine silhouette. I also adore the way her natural aesthetic has influenced different areas of their homeware and accessories collection, which speak back to the beautiful gardens of Christian Dior’s home in the countryside. louisebradley.co.uk
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PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
Louise is known for creating timeless, elegant spaces
FASHION
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AN EXCEPTIONAL SCOTTISH ISLAND ADVENTURE Benmore Estate on the Isle of Mull offers a 32,000 acre adventure playground for the sporting enthusiast
The perfect location to play host for any celebration enquiries@benmoreestate.co.uk | www.benmoreestate.co.uk | @benmoreestate
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HOTELS &
TRAVEL Dive On In A week at ‘The Peli’ on Zakynthos seems like a rite of passage for well-heeled familes, says Lucy Cleland PHOTOGRAPHY BY KERRY DEAN
Heading straight into action at The Peligoni
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HOTELS & TRAVEL | Greece
I
the very non-touristy area (in fact, there was no electricity in the beginning) and recognised that they could perhaps help keep it special. Fast forward to 2005, and when Vanessa and Johnny were nearing retirement and Britain was beckoning, The Peligoni basically went bankrupt, according to Anouska ‘Noosh’ Shearer, daughter of the current owner, Ian Shearer. The Shearers – who had been enjoying family holidays here for years (likening it to, say, Rock in Cornwall or the Isle of Wight – i.e. the kind of seaside destination that attracts a certain type of sailing-mad family year in, year out) and had built a house next door, were so enamoured of The Peligoni that Ian corralled the other regulars to persuade them to buy it. Enthusiasm abounded until, that is, they had to sign on the dotted line. In the end, Ian, a property developer, bought it himself – and the rest, as they say, is history. Now, it’s his children, Ben and Noosh, who run it and have smartened and sharpened the operation without, they hope, losing the bohemian soul of the original. Four hundred club members can be
PHOTOS: © KERRY DEAN; © HOLLY FARRIER
was, I confess, slightly dreading our week at The Peligoni Club on the north-eastern side of Zakynthos in the Ionian Sea. Not that I’d heard a bad word against it; no, to the contrary – everyone positively eulogised about the family-run private members’ club set into a rocky outcrop (apart from some parents bemoaning the bar/ice cream bill racked up by children unshackled from parental chains for the week). It was more its reputation for being, God forbid, the type of place you might run into someone you know from ‘real life’. For some, this is a huge positive – meeting Harry, Jemima and their three children, Isla, Arlo and Hermione, from number 49, is like striking holiday gold; for me, not so much. But I’m happy to admit when I’m wrong. As soon as we bumped into Kate and her family, and the kids broke the ice in the way only they know how to do (playing volleyball in the pool and falling off windsurf boards), I heaved a sigh of relief and relaxed into a week of sun, sports, relaxation and, most important of all, ease (a week here is supremely easy). And then, of course, we met Shaun, Tessa, Alex et al... The history of ‘The Peli’, as it’s affectionately known, goes back to 1989 when it first opened its doors to guests as a sailing club (it has generally calm conditions in the morning with the wind picking up in the afternoon, making it the perfect place to learn) with plastic chairs and bad wine. Located just a boat’s nudge from the lovely laidback harbour village of Agios Nikolaos, and as far from the now-built southern nightclubs of Laganas as it’s possible to be, a British couple – Vanessa Goldie and her husband Johnny – had fallen in love with
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PHOTOS: © KERRY DEAN; © HOLLY FARRIER
The watersports for all are a big draw for The Peligoni, which hums with families in the summer holidays
accommodated with boat trips, sailing, foiling, waterskiing, windsurfing, paddle-boarding and other watersports on tap (with tuition and group classes, for tots to nonagenarians if needed), plus yoga, pilates, meditation, a spa (excellent massages) and tennis for others – with sunbeds and rosé on tap too, of course. Come the summer holidays, the place is at full throttle – well-heeled families flock knowing that whatever age their children are, they will be beautifully catered for. The ‘rugrats’ crèche is humming with babies; Sharky & George deliver hours of cheeky fun for kids under 12; tweens can find unconstructed entertainment bouncing from sailing lessons to pool volleyball and slurping smoothies in between; savvy older teens know how to get their parents to ask for the vaunted ‘green’ wristband, which allows them to buy the odd beer. Throughout the week The Peli puts on evenings that encourage all guests to get together and let their sun-bleached hair down – trestle tables, food stalls, live music, dancing, DJs see all generations jiving on the dance floor and sharing tales of sporting derring-do. With no accommodation on-site, although Noosh says this may change as the club expands (and you heard it here first that the brand may open its first destination outside Greece in Portugal
before too long), families stay in one of over a hundred villas rented through The Peligoni and all within a 15-minute drive of the club. Ours, Kallista, was brand new and impeccably kitted out with a pool, outdoor pizza oven, boules, ping-pong, endless terraces and plenty of mature trees to frame those heavenly views. It makes for a great change of scene from The Peli once you’ve exhausted yourself on the water (or in the bar) – but, of course, with all those friends you know back at the club, you might find it hard to tear yourself away. BOOK IT: One-week Peligoni Club membership
from £185pp (£525 in high season). Full watersports upgrades, from £120. Crèche, from £455. One week at Villa Kallista, from £6,000. peligoni.com
adde Villa Kallista (this picture and opposite) is a fabulous place to rent for the week, sleeping 12 and just a ten minute walk from The Peligoni
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HOTELS & TRAVEL | Greece
GREEK ODYSSEYS The best of the rest...
SANI RESORT, Halkidiki FA M I LY D EL I G H T S
You can expect to see a few familiar faces from home at Sani, as well-to-do families decamp there in the school holidays to take advantage of the exceptional crèche, beach ‘Babewatch’ service and lunch-when-you-like vibe. Spreading out across the impossibly pretty Kassandra peninsula in Halkidiki (white sand and silky, turquoise water, dunes and dense pine woods), Sani comprises five different hotels in one polished, utopian take on a Greek coastal village. The hotels all assume their own individual character though – Sani Beach is the blockier of the bunch, Porto Sani is pure tot nirvana, Sani Dunes has that lick of grown-up sophistication (while keeping close to all the kiddy facilities), upscale Sani Asterias is villa-style and gated (aka a safe space for child-free couples or grandparents needing a degree of separation), and Sani Club villas all enjoy sea views, with a 4x4 Volvo scoot over the peninsula to reach the boutique-flanked Sani marina and communal faculties. Days could start with an early morning tennis session at the Rafa Nadal Tennis Centre, a family bike ride through the pine woods or an eco-tour of the bird-filled wetlands. Afternoons here are the holidays you had before children: uninterrupted sips of Whispering Angel on the bonkers beautiful Bousoulas Beach, maybe a pilates class or a slovenly few hours lounging by the pool, all while the children are happily docked in superb kids’ clubs or crèches. Older kids love the Bear Grylls survival academy, the Chelsea Football Academy, the new zip wire adventure through the pine wood treetops and the endless water sports (including a diving school with PADI instructors). Sani’s irresistible formula is balm for frazzled parents. Rosalyn Wikeley BOOK IT: Doubles from €149 a night, half-board. sani-resort.com
THE DOLLI AT ACROPOLIS, Athens CIT Y SIGHTS
Juxtaposing the hustle and bustle of Athens in an elegant and graceful manner is The Dolli at Acropolis, which opened early this year to not only frame what is perhaps the best hotel view over the acropolis, but also boast an alluring design scheme throughout the hotel that is made to feel distinctly warm and inviting. The 46-key hotel, situated in the vibrant neighbourhood of Plaka, is nestled in a former department store. Its unusually high ceilings inside, therefore, create a naturally luxurious and airy feeling from the moment guests arrive. There is a noticeable lack of edges in both the architecture and interior, which evokes a quiet luxury experience that helps the space flow freely. Arriving at The Dolli at Acropolis feels elevated with contemporary furniture, original artwork and, in places, ancient artefacts dotted around the lobby, which feels more like a lounge. Upstairs, the cream rooms are made to feel like home-from-home sanctuaries, flooded with natural light and modern design details but also includes subtle nods, such as sculptures and art, to reflect a modern take on the city’s heritage. The rooftop, meanwhile, complete with an infinity pool for guests and the hotel’s signature restaurant, really is the jewel in the crown. It captures unmatched views over the acropolis – quite frankly, if it was any closer to the ancient ruin and archaeological site it would be in its shadow. Hamish Kilburn BOOK IT: Doubles from £450 a night B&B. thedolli.com 178 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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PNOÉ BREATHING LIFE, Crete W EL L B EI N G S TA R
Disguised in-between nature and an ancient archaeological site in Heraklion, Pnoé Breathing Life has become one of Crete’s hottest boutique hotels to arrive in 2023. Despite being close to the airport, everything about this all-suite, adults-only hotel – from its low-level architecture that wraps around the main swimming pool to natural materials used throughout – evokes a discreet sense of wellbeing and luxury. The 60 suites – all with private pools – are unconventionally Greek. Forget white-washed minimalism. The rooms are dark, muted and made to look and feel local through the use of materials and bespoke furniture sourced and made on the island. The design of the hotel works in harmony with its authentic hospitality. In the two restaurants, a Cretan menu, which includes seafood, lamb, herbs and farm-grown vegetables, changes seasonally. The hotel’s premium dining experience, named Uranus, sources its ingredients from Peskesi organic farm, which guests can visit during their stay. At the heart of the hotel, the cave-like spa is serene. On entry, guests walk along a corridor of steppingstones that channels them into a different state of mind and deeper into the space. It shelters a cohesive design to the rest of the hotel that fits in harmony with state-of-the art treatments – hyperbaric oxygen, Zerobody flotation, and breathwork therapies are on the menu – as well as a plethora of other, perhaps more conventional, spa experiences. Hamish Kilburn BOOK IT: Suites from €600 a night B&B. pnoe-breathinglife.com
LESANTE CAPE, Zakynthos
S O P H I S T I C AT ED M U LT I - G EN G E T-TO G E T H ER S
New to the Zakynthian scene is the third Lesante Collection property, from the family-owned luxury hotel group, which brought the first five-star destination – Lesante Classic – to the island back in 2009. Located in the eastern Akrotiri area (once belonging to the island’s nobles who had their summer houses there at the coolest part of the island), Lesante Cape was built from scratch, keeping 408 of the ancient olive trees as part of its design. Very much conceived around the traditional Greek village, the heart of the hotel is its market square, where you’ll find a museum, church, taverna and shop – plus ice cream parlour and game rooms for the kids. Three pools, a small, rocky private beach, playground, spa and padel tennis court mean there is plenty to keep one planted within its elegant surrounds – and don’t miss a cookery lesson with head chef Manos. Views across to Kefalonia and the Peloponnese become shrouded in hazy pink as the sun sets and you settle back with a glass of Lesante rosé, bottled by superb local vineyard Grampsas. Water and greenery – vegetable gardens and vineyards – feature heavily among the terracotta tiled roofs and smart white-washed buildings – 55 suites and ten private villas in all (many with their own pools), plus four restaurants and four bars. The splash of water, children’s laughter, the soft strains of easy jazz emanating from the bar, the omnipresent (delicious) breeze, and the Greek charm of the staff make Lesante a superbly easy and elegant choice – for all ages. Lucy Cleland BOOK IT: Doubles from around £380 a night. lesantecape.gr September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 179
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HOTELS & TRAVEL | Greece
THE ROOSTER, Antiparos H E A L I N G H AV EN
Far removed from the white-washed, blue doored hotels that cover the Cyclades, from the crowds that party in nearby Mykonos or the tourists the populate the streets of Santorini, The Rooster offers 16 individual houses and one farmhouse in rough, mellow stone in tones of brown and green, terracotta and turmeric to ‘wake up the eye’, just steps from the sea in unspoilt Antiparos. The passion project of owner, Athanasia Comninos, who felt that the dawn call of the Rooster which began her days on this island she had fallen in love with, was a call to action to fulfil her dream of creating a hotel. One which would bring understated luxury to Antiparos, while preserving its authentic character. It is a hotel that takes hold of your soul, with its tangible energy now given full rein in their new holistic House of Healing. Here you can recharge and rejuvenate with Ila and other organic products used in custom made treatments that draw on traditional ancestral and ancient medicine to heal through sound and ceremonies of fire with all-seeing, all-knowing therapists. Therapists who can start you on new paths. And certainly, after a day dipping in your private pool, eating the freshest Rooster ingredients for dinner, and putting your head down in a house that embraces silence, you will sleep long into the morning blissfully unaware of any Rooster’s call. Mary Lussiana BOOK IT: Doubles from €850 a night B&B. theroosterantiparos.com
NAFPLIA PALACE HOTEL AND VILLAS, Peloponnese
PHOTOS: ©YANNIS RIZOMARKOS
O FF T H E B E AT EN T R AC K
As visitors approach the Nafplia Palace Hotel, they might imagine themselves as James Bond, sneaking into a villain’s opulent lair. The entrance to the hotel is a long, cool tunnel cut into the cliffs, dressed in chic Brutalist fashion, and empty but for three lifts at the far end. Still, once you reach the clifftop hotel’s courtyard atrium, any sense of foreboding melts away. Set within the outer walls of Acronafplia’s Castle, the hotel and its lush gardens offer stunning views over the northern tip of the Gulf of Argolis. There are five different ‘tiers’ of room, ranging from those which ‘just’ feature a balcony, to two bedroom ‘Platinum’ club villas. These all feature private pools, Jacuzzi bathtubs, hammam spa showers and walk in wardrobes. Villas have exclusive use of a separate infinity pool which overlooks the rustic old town of Nafplio. A luxurious buffet breakfast is included, the highlight being fresh juice made from sweet oranges grown just miles from the hotel. It’s worth swinging by at dinner time for a view of the sunsets from the clifftop, poolside restaurant while sipping Domaine Skouras wines from a local vineyard. To complete your James Bond experience, why not ask the hotel to organise the halfhour helicopter transfer back to Athens airport from its private helipad? You only live twice… Jack Rear BOOK IT: Doubles from £268 a night. nafpliapalace.gr n 180 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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HOTELS & TRAVEL | News JOURNEY WITH A PURPOSE
As St Barth’s first and only Green Globe-certified hotel, The Christopher has raised the island’s sustainability bar once again. First, with its continued support of the Artireef project, which uses electric currents from the hotel to restore the nearby coral reef of Pointe Milou, and most recently, with a new sustainable drinking water solution. The hotel has teamed up with AQUAChiara, a company that instantly transforms unpurified water into sparkling or still micro filtered drinking water. Currently available at the hotel’s two restaurants – both helmed by two Michelin-starred chef, Arnaud Faye – the aim is to roll the initiative out to all the rooms, which, it goes without saying, will significantly reduce the hotel’s CO2 emissions while also eliminating its use of single plastics. €690, hotelchristopher.com
The ESCAPIST
Lauren Ho selects the best adventures for your next dream trip SILENT SAFARIS
Thanks to its healing thermal waters, fresh mountain air and soothing Rhine Valley views – not to mention one of the world’s best medi-spas – Switzerland’s Grand Resort Bad Ragaz has long been a favourite for those looking to retreat, rejuvenate and relax. Its NEWYOU Method aims to help guests maintain their health and increase their quality of life, focusing on six pillars that come together in a series of packages from tailored nutrition using diagnostics that analyse your metabolism, to finding the right kind of exercise for you. All this alongside a stellar restaurant offering, which together has six Michelin stars, a Green Michelin star and 75 Gault&Millau Points. Programme from £4,582, ex-overnight stay. resortragaz.ch
SAFARIS THAT GIVE BACK
For 25 years, Cape Town-based tour operator Go2Africa has created meaningful trips that serve as an aid to conserve and protect Africa’s wildlife and empower communities. Its Positive Impact programme includes a range of hands-on itineraries that include activities from engaging with local communities, and planting trees, to participating in conservation initiatives to protect endangered wildlife. To boot, all of the safaris include a donation to one or more of the Positive Impact initiatives that Go2Africa supports across the continent. This includes contributing to The Gift of Hope, which supports thousands of South African women and children infected with or affected by HIV, working with The Endangered Wildlife Trust, and with Greenpop, an award-winning non-profit organisation that plants trees in urban greening and reforestation projects. go2africa.com 182 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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PR O M OT I O N
NEW YORK STATE OF MIND A new Manhattan-inspired menu has landed at Italian restaurant Sette
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lamorous Italian restaurant, Sette, located in the Bvlgari Hotel in Knightsbridge, is loved by diners for its authentic Italian food from the heart of Manhattan, served with its own inimitable flair. This September, it will expand its much-loved menu to include a sexy selection of New York-inspired dishes, straight from the kitchens of Scarpetta, the restaurant’s flagship outpost in Manhattan. The New York Nights series will include such dishes as wagyu beef, Imperial caviar, pastrami rib-eye, and tomahawk steak. These delicious dishes can be washed down with fresh takes on classic cocktails at sister bar Nolita Social, such as a reimagined version of the infamous Manhattan cocktail, a new interpretation of a margarita with a spiced rim, and a Cosmopolitan with a grape-inspired twist from the Scarpetta menu. Tucked beneath Sette restaurant in the Bvlgari Hotel, Nolita Social is an ‘underground’ lounge that offers guests an intimate experience, beginning with cocktails and light bites, and transitioning into an afterhours hangout. ‘Our aim has always been to deliver charm, inspiration and pleasure in the simplest things,’
The New York Nights series brings a flavour of Manhattan to Knightsbridge
says John Meadow, founder and president of the La Dolce Vita restaurant group. ‘The New York Nights Series will do just that, marrying the two great things that began my culinary journey, authentic Italian food, wine and culture, with New York restaurants.’ And what better way to wake up from a New York night than with a New York brunch? As well as the updated dinner menu, Sette is also introducing an allAmerican brunch offering, featuring bagel towers, waffles with fried chicken, pancakes with berries and Chantilly cream, pastrami Benedict, and French toast with banana and bourbon. Simply choose whether you want to toast the weekend with free-flowing Ruinart Brut or Dom Perignon, and enjoy alongside live music performances to create the ultimate Manhattan brunch experience. Delicious – and you don’t even have to book a flight across the pond. Available from 15 September. For more information visit settelondon.co.uk
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HOTELS & TRAVEL | News
FIVE HOT NEW OPENINGS
TAKE A HIKE
It may be famous for its party scene, but with its beautiful scenery and breathtaking views, there’s nothing like hiking in Ibiza. Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay has teamed up with Ibiza Hike Station for a series of Holistic Hiking Retreats. They showcase the island’s dramatic gorges, hidden caves and natural Jacuzzis, with breathwork, meditation and shout therapy along the way. 24-27 Sept, 8-11 and 22-25 Oct, from €1,055. nobuhotelibizabay.com
COWLEY MANOR, Cotswolds, UK Cowley Manor has unveiled four stylish new rooms following an extensive makeover. Set in 55 acres of countryside, it still has an epic spa and restaurant. From £250, cowleymanorexperimental.com
AND ALL THAT JAZZ
Add a new stop to your next Highland road trip: the beautiful Palladian-style Dumfries House in East Ayrshire. As part of The Prince’s Foundation Gardens and Estate, it’s now partnered with Van Cleef & Arpels, the organisation’s new Principal Patron. In particular, check out the Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Garden, which is undergoing new preservation working, including the expansion of the delphinium border, establishing on-site eco-composting and planting to increase biodiversity throughout the estate. Stay tuned: next, the jewellery brand will turn its attention to The Castle of Mey and Highgrove Gardens. dumfries-house.org.uk
THE FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL New York Set to become the buzziest place in town, this new hotel in Madison Square Park has been glamorously realised by interiors maven Martin Brudnizki. From $895, thefifthavenuehotel.com
ODLES LODGE, South Tyrol, Italy Odles Lodge is four new adults-only chalets from Forestis, built from local spruce and Swiss stone pine, in an Alpine meadow. The ultimate retreat to relax and rejuvenate. €550, odleslodge.it
THE BELL AT CHARLBURY, Cotswolds From the low-key luxe team at Daylesford, this 17th century inn is set to become the Cotswold crowds’ latest go-to, with 12 stylish rooms and an organic, local menu. £194 B&B, thebellatcharlbury.com
MAKING AIR TRAVEL ACCESSIBLE
Air 4 All is new system aimed to revolutionise air travel for passengers living with reduced mobility. Enabling powered wheelchair users to remain in their own wheelchair for the duration of the flight, the device has smartly been designed to play double duty and function as a regular airline seat that can folded away to accommodate a wheelchair when needed. The result is a smart solution that allows everyone to have equal access to a comfortable and dignified air travel experience. priestmangoode.com
MONDRIAN SINGAPORE DUXTON, Singapore With typical pizzazz, this new hotel unfolds over 302 guestrooms, and a series of vibrant restaurants and bars, including a cinematic rooftop pool and an Italian restaurant. Approx. £260, ennismore.com n
PHOTOS: © HUGO ALLARD; © TAMINA THERME; © MATTHIEU CELLARD; © MARTIN MORRELL
COMING UP ROSY
Monaco has welcomed the world’s most glamorous people for over a century. A new restaurant for your next visit is Les Ambassadeurs at Hotel Metropole, helmed by chef Christophe Cussac, who dishes up the finest Mediterranean cuisine in an elegant setting. The concept and menu hark back to the vivacity and success of the original Les Ambassadeurs restaurant in the Roaring Twenties, which threw open its doors to the international elite, and helped set a new standard for Mediterranean cooking. metropole.com
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PR O M OT I O N
YOUR DOSE OF WINTER SUN Five reasons you need to book your next family break at Four Seasons Fairways, Algarve, Portugal
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Four Seasons Fairways is set in the breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage site of the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve, 18,000 hectares of white beaches, salt marshes, wetlands, mangroves and sand dunes, all bursting with wildlife to discover. Cycle, hike or horse ride through the trails in the nature reserve, go birdwatching for flamingos and waders, or simply drink in the peace and quiet of being engrossed in beautiful nature.
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Home-from-home villas with hotel amenities
All the privacy of your own dedicated villa, with the luxury of a five-star hotel at your fingertips. Choose between apartments or villas that come with terraces, barbecues, and either jacuzzis or pools, sleeping up to eight people. Amenities include a housekeeping service, access to gyms and personal trainers, plus babysitting and a kids’ club.
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An active escape
We all know to feel good, you need to look after your mind, body and soul. Four Seasons Fairways is the perfect place for the whole family to get active, from fitness classes and tennis and yoga lessons for the adults, to swimming lessons and a water sports academy for the kids. Plus, hitting the cycling trails of the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve is fun for the whole family.
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A vibrant clubhouse experience
The Four Seasons Fairways clubhouse is the buzzing hub of the resort, with a cool indoor/outdoor bar area for sundowner cocktails, relaxed restaurant VIVO for all-day dining, and also the elegant à la carte restaurant Amara, offering contemporary Portuguese cuisine, plus a new terrace that opened in summer 2023.
Nature all around
Stay in luxury in one of Four Seasons Fairway's villas or apartments
World-class golf
You'll f ind Four Seasons Fairways in the gorgeous surroundings of the Quinta do Lago resort, which is home to three pristine golf-courses. They are some of Europe’s best and regularly host both professional golf tours and tournaments, and amateur ones, too. In the wider Algarve region, there are over 30 golf courses to challenge players at every level. There’s also a juniors' golf academy for getting kids into the swing of things. BOOK IT: Seven nights in a two- or three-bed villa or apartment with swimming pool or jacuzzi ranges from £1,270-£3,970 (subject to exchange rate) on a self-catering basis. fourseasonsfairways.com
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PR O M OT I O N
THE SUITE ESCAPE A glorious refurb blends antiques and contemporary aesthetics in The Grove
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weekend away resets a lot of things in life – and a countryside escape can heal the soul completely. Nestled only 18 miles and a quick train away from central London, The Grove is the best kept secret in the South East. Sitting in a sprawling Georgian estate, the former home of the Earl of Clarendon marries its rich heritage with all the modern trimmings you would expect of an outstanding hotel stay. Its exclusive mansion rooms and suites are the epitome of luxury.
DINE
You can enjoy no shortage of dinner options at The Grove. The Glasshouse is a buffet option that elevates the usual hotel help-yourself experience. Expect yourself to be immersed in lively chef action spanning several international stalls, as you savour an amazing array of delicious, freshly cooked dishes. The Stables restaurant champions great British produce in a cosy farmhouse space and offers a choice of local and seasonal dishes. Meanwhile, Madhu’s At The Grove brings a decadent take on Punjabi dining to the hotel, and more casual bites can be had with Sushi in the Lounges.
DESIGN
Each of the mansion’s 12 suites and 13 bedrooms have a new, original scheme by Martin Hulbert Design. Step into expansive spaces sporting Georgian mouldings, crackling fireplaces and airy ceilings. Many of these rooms boast freestanding baths sitting pretty by bay windows, for indulgent soaks while taking in views of the estate’s manicured gardens. Art and antiques are central features of the redesign. The suites are adorned with hand-selected pieces of contemporary art, by home county artists like Poppy Ellis and Andrew Viner, and curated antiques.
SUITE LIFE For guests looking to upgrade their stay, booking one of the excellent suites is the perfect choice. Complimentary amenities include: 1 Your mini-bar stocked up with Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut NV and premium spirits (plus The Grove’s signature honey and gin cocktail). 2 Private access to the hotel’s library to pick up a page-turner, and enjoy it with snacks and drinks. 3 A tempting ice cream menu from partner Hackney Gelato. 4 Dedicated assistance of a personal Mansion Experience Manager. Plus, for extra charge, an indulgent in-room Bamford massage.
DIVINE In Sequoia Spa, swim away your worries in the vaulted, black mosaic pool. The space has also been beautifully refurbished by StudioJill featuring new dining areas, a tranquility room and new facilities including pool-side steam room and wellness pool. The spa’s design is intended to evince total relaxation, extending to the nourishing Bamford treatments. Perhaps try the signature massage: 80 minutes of restoration with both Swedish and Thai techniques. thegrove.co.uk
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Trains | HOTELS & TRAVEL
PHOTOS: UNSPLASH
TICKET TO RIDE
The great rail renaissance continues to gather steam, but what’s the driving force behind this slow travel trend? asks REBECCA COX September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 187
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PHOTOS: PEXELS; © REBECCA COX
‘The CAPILLARITY of the railway system allows travellers to EXPLORE almost EVERY corner of the WORLD by train’
The British Pullman chugs along; an opulent bedroom on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express; Rebecca Cox on board the same train; getting a helping hand
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he hypnotic clickety-clack of wheels on rails; the buffet trolley bumping along between the rows; the filling and emptying of carriages; scenery rushing past; tracks weaving across countries around the globe like lifelines of human existence. (‘The capillarity of the railway system allows travellers to explore almost every corner of the world by train,’ says Gary Franklin, Vice President Trains & Cruises at Belmond.) After two centuries, despite the unstoppable force of innovation – aeroplanes, helicopters, self-driving cars, electric vehicles – trains not only endure, but our appetite for them is growing faster than ever. Sleeper services are making a comeback, with NightJet launching new routes this year with big plans for the future. Meanwhile, French newcomer Midnight Trains is promising ‘hotels on wheels’, launching from late 2024, revolutionising sleeper services and offering comfortable cabins with routes that include Paris to Milan and Edinburgh to Paris. So, what’s behind the big train comeback? Firstly, nostalgia. Those clickety-clacks and buffet trolleys packed with shortbreads; school holiday train trips to London to visit a museum. As a child, my birthdays and Christmases were
accompanied by an evening family activity of The Great Game of Britain: a board game in which you must travel across the UK by train, ticking off your stops, thwarted by hazard cards, broken train signals and repeatedly being sent to Penzance or Stornoway by your fellow players. Th ree decades on, we’re still playing and the game (same tatty board) is now a favourite with my seven-year-old son, too. The appeal of ‘the great train game’ never wanes and nor does the appeal of a great train journey. Stories of notable train journeys are passed down through the generations and via the pages of our favourite literary classics, giving even the most modern trains a retro appeal. One train epitomises this. ‘The historical value of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and its role in contemporary culture are simply unmatched,’ Gary Franklin says. ‘People dream of stepping on board our train, an Art Deco masterpiece made of 17 carriages from the 1920s and 1930s.’ Alongside nostalgia there’s the need to slow down. Physically and environmentally, yes, but mentally, too. Where better to seek respite from life’s frenetic pace than within the confines of a plush carriage inside a train chugging steadily toward its destination, immersing you in your surroundings and inviting
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PHOTOS: PEXELS; © REBECCA COX
Trains | HOTELS & TRAVEL
you to be present for the journey? Six hours on a plane? Miserable! Six hours in a car? Traffic jam city! Six hours on a train? The rare and welcome gift of time. Speaking of which, we’re somewhat living on borrowed time when it comes to the environmental challenges facing our planet. At present, transport accounts for roughly 25 percent of European emissions. However, simply standing still is not a viable option, not to mention the positive potential impact of ecotourism when it comes to protection and regeneration. So, we must continue to travel, while making better choices about how we do it. Travelling less frequently for longer trips is one easy way to make a positive change and swapping flights for trains can make a huge difference, too (the two go hand in hand, really). On average, train travel emits six times less
greenhouse gases than a comparative journey by plane. You could take six return trips from Paris to Milan on the soon-to-launch Midnight Trains route for the carbon cost of one return flight. The trains themselves are being adapted using new technology to make them better for the environment. Several hydrogen-powered trains are in operation around the world, including Alstom’s Coradia iLint in Quebec, Canada, the first zero-emission train on the North American continent. And it’s not necessarily about giving up flying altogether overnight (baby steps). Cat Jones, founder and CEO of Byway, says: ‘Flight-free momentum is growing as increasing numbers of people seek to reduce the amount they are flying, rather than eliminate air travel entirely. Just like flexitarianism and meat-free Mondays, people want to make this lifestyle change because they’re worried about the climate crisis. The WTTC (World Travel & Tourism Council) recently reported that 69 percent of travellers are actively seeking sustainable travel options for 2023, and research from McKinsey highlights that 36 percent of travellers are planning to fly less.’ The romance of train travel is undeniable. A few years ago, I had the chance to ride the Orient Express from Paris to Montreux for the jazz festival. The original 1920s carriages, though resplendent with stunning Lalique glass panelling, had no air conditioning and the temperature was above 30 degrees all day. What could have been an uncomfortable, sweaty experience was one of the most fabulous of my life: live jazz musicians winding through the train; free-flowing champagne; mountains rising and falling through the windows; lakes sparkling as we zipped by; and the movement of the fan in my hand melodically matching the rhythm of the trains clacks as I moved from bar car to passenger cabin, clinking glasses with passengers. This year, I zipped along the Italian coastline on a local train on a ticket costing less than €5 (part of a Riviera adventure planned by Inntravel) plunging in and out of tunnels, glimpses of candy-coloured houses perched atop cliffs sloping toward the aqua sea, my son curled up asleep on the seat facing mine: bliss. Conversely, I write this piece from home in the UK on a day where train strikes have prevented me from coming into town – I’m missing meetings, an event, and a catch-up with a friend. But strikes notwithstanding, I will always give rail travel a second (third, thousandth) chance: train travel is not just a means of getting from A to B, it’s mindful of that all-important time in between. Like an interval between two musical notes. So the only remaining question is – where next?
ALL ABOARD! Five romantic rail adventures to book now
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From the French to the Italian Riviera Six nights’ B&B in two four-star and one five-star hotels. Includes rail tickets between hotels; advice for walking tours of Menton and Genoa; and cultural notes. A full review is online at countryandtownhouse. com. From £1,155pp based on two sharing, April-October. inntravel.co.uk Alternative Netherlands A fun budget rail adventure spread across five days, with stays in Rotterdam and Delft by Byway Travel, which has received a slew of five-star ratings since it was launched in 2020. Plus, new super-luxe flight-free trips launch this season. From £621pp, trip.byway.travel
London to Fort William Caledonian Sleeper Travel from London to the wilds of Scotland while you sleep, waking up to beautiful lochs and stunning mountain views, which you can enjoy from your sleeper cabin over breakfast before arriving in Fort William about 10am. From £180-£405 for a cabin. sleeper.scot The California Zephyr Why take to the skies when America has so much to offer on the ground? Amtrak’s California Zephyr train travels almost 2,500 miles in 52 hours, crossing prairies, deserts, the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Nevada. From $99, private sleeper cabins available. amtrak.com
British Pullman dinners with top female chefs As well as exciting Murder Mystery Lunches, British Pullman has been celebrating this year with the Dom Pérignon Dinner series, which features leading female chefs. The next of these is on 20 October, with Nieves Barragán Mohacho (above) from Sabor Restaurant. belmond.com n
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The Eternal City’s
SECOND ACT It’s time for Rome’s renaissance, says Rosalyn Wikeley
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New Bites
SIX SENSES ROME
As the plush, progressive group’s first city outpost, Six Senses Rome’s opening in March caused quite a stir. The naysayers were alarmed by the eye-rollingly good ancient grain pizzas and casually dressed staff taking their right-on cue from five-star service of yore, without the stiff-as-a-rod Jeeves act. That’s Six Senses: wholly laid back despite such lofty standards and delicious interiors, all of which evince an earthy, elemental new-age narrative, expressed here through the design lens of Roman terracotta and clay. The group’s hallmark eco-thrust is evident in be-better talks in the Earth Lab, the absence of plastic in the rooms, and salt scrubs whipped up using roof garden botanicals in the spa’s alchemy bar. Alongside the spa’s Roman bath circuit – a travertine marble sanctuary where hammam, sauna-and-steam room yo-yo-ing and tropical rain showers await – deft hands work organic lotions and potions into weary muscles, with spa manager Ramy keeping standards as high as the pillars. But it’s the food that’s come out top at this fabulous meddly of LA zen and Roman antiquity. From the beef carpaccio and oysters to the pitch-perfect baked artichoke and spaghetti cacio magno e pepe, the food here feels both nourishing and a little naughty. BOOK IT: Doubles from £860. sixsenses.com
1 PULEJO Chef Davide Puleio has taken his Noma and L’Alchimia schooling full circle, back to the city he first cut his culinary teeth in. Italian flavours drive a menu dotted with Milanese and Scandinavian accents, with plates such as kamut tagliatelle with blue crab and seaweed, or risotto with stewed oxtail and cocoa. pulejo.it 2 ALMATÒ Tucked away in the offbeat Prati neighbourhood, Almatò seats 28 for Chef Tommaso Venuti wildly creative tasting menus,all inspired by childhood memories. Expect immaculately dressed plates of pork belly with pepper and capers, creamy risotto laced with dark Modica chocolate and wines paired to each dish with aplomb. almato.it
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PHOTOS: PEXELS
rom the pine-shaded paths of Villa Borghese to the drawn out trattoria lunches of cacio e pepe, Rome gets under your skin and enthrals even the loyalists at every turn. Even more so recently, with an ear-pricking host of new hotel openings – many eschewing the city’s museum-like soul for a smoother, contemporary sheen, while remaining in step with Rome’s legendary artisans. Similarly, a flurry of new-age restaurants have squeezed themselves between the family-owned trattorias, and while Rome can do culture in its sleep, this year’s exhibitions are layering its ancient appeal with a creative prescience typically associated with Milan. Scott Dunn’s Destination Manager for Europe, Nick Cunningham, attributes Rome’s recent revitalisation to traveller’s elevated expectations and a desire to experience something new. ‘Now more than ever, the classic or most popular destinations need to give travellers a reason to keep returning – it’s Rome’s turn for a resurgence.’ With this in mind, this is what’s new in the Eternal City.
Rome | HOTELS & TRAVEL
New Openings
PALAZZO RIPETTA
New Exhibitions 1 LETIZIA BATTAGLIA at Baths of Caracalla As part of the Rome opera house summer festival, this exhibition showcases the visceral work of Italian photographer Letizia Battaglia, famed for documenting over 50 years of Mafia violence and arrests. Until 5 November
The 17th-century Palazzo Ripetta has lived many lives, originally as a convent for orphans and unmarried women and now as a family-owned hotel with a remarkable art collection and a restaurant to write home about. The hotel scoops guests off central Rome’s frenetic streets into a calmer, monochromeand-marble dimension. Negronis arrive on silver trays in snug corners, a courtyard dotted with citrus trees is illuminated by sunlight and glamorous guests leaning over plates of pasta. Rooms are decked in Murano glass, parquet floor and Frette bed linen. Every detail of its new coat is proudly ‘Made in Italy’, from the lacquer furniture and eccentric wallpaper to the velvet sofas and Sicilian bathroom products. In the San Baylon restaurant a mix of locals and in-the-know Americans absorb the brooding atmosphere over plates of beef tartare with crispy herbs, handmade bucatini pasta filled with guinea fowl and gnocchi with sea cobs and squid ink. BOOK IT: Doubles from €450. palazzoripetta.com
PHOTOS: PEXELS
2 ARCHITETTURE A REGOLA D’ARTE, Collezione Maxxi Examining the relationship between architecture and art through various archival materials from some of Italy’s most prominent 20th century architects. Until 15 Oct, maxxi.art 3 INFINITY: Contemporary Art Without Limits at Chiostro del Bramante Famed for his humansized mirror paintings in the Sixties, Michelangelo Pistoletto played a leading role in the Italian Arte Povera movement. More than 50 of his contemporary works are on display at the Chiostro del Bramante, including Venus of the Rags – the emblem of Arte Povera and provocation against overconsumption. Until 15 October, chiostrodelbramante.it
ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIADI
Curving majestically before its namesake fountain and sister building forming Piazza della Repubblica, Anantara Palazzo Naiadi is a neoclassical landmark in itself. Pace the lower ground floor and you’re stepping over history (above the ancient ruins of the Baths of Diocletian, bathing up to 2,000 Romans at one time); rest your head in the Clementino side of the hotel and you’re snoozing where Pope Clement XI once stored the Vatican’s grain and later, its horses. In more recent history, Italian silver screen legend Sofia Loren graced one of the two presidential suites, now named in her honour. Since falling into Anantara’s hands in 2020, this history has been unpeeled and celebrated as part of a seismic refurbishment. Some rooms gaze wistfully over the fountain illuminated at night, others bag alternative postcard-worthy views of the city, and all 230 embrace guests with that carpeted, crispy linened, marbled classicism in cream and coffee hues. BOOK IT: Doubles from €360 B&B. anantara.com
JULY 2023 Bulgari Hotel Roma Bulgari has scooped out the innards of a 1930s building on Piazza Augusto Imperatore, not far from the Spanish Steps. ACPV architects Antonio Citterio and Patricia Viel have bejewelled the historic building in the finest Italian craftsmanship: hand-made mosaics, Murano crystal and sink tapestries. bulgarihotels.com
OCTOBER 2023 Romeo Roma One of the final projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, Romeo Roma will poignantly embody her knack for honouring history through a contemporary lens. Highlights include birds-eye rooftop views over Piazza del Popolo, an Alain Ducasse-directed restaurant, and a Sisley Paris wellness centre. theromeocollection.com
2024 Corinthia Rome Fans of the Corinthia group’s fresh classicism will be on tender hooks for 2024’s Piazza del Parlamento opening. Occupying the former Central Bank of Italy, the much-anticipated hotel is set to turn heads. corinthia.com
HOW TO GET THERE Scott Dunn offers various Rome trips, including four nights at Six Senses Rome from £2,850 per person based on two people sharing a classic room on a B&B basis and includes return flights from the UK and private transfers. For more information please visit scottdunn.com or call 020 8682 5030
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
FOOD&DRINK
Foraging up a Feast Autumn’s larder tastes so good, especially with wild mushrooms on the menu
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ANCIENT GRAINS, WILD MUSHROOM AND MISO PICTURED ON PREVIOUS PAGE
SERVES 4 This is a hearty dish to be enjoyed as cold autumnal evenings approach — — — — — — — — — — —
80g freekah 80g bulgur 80g pearl barley (pre-soaked) 40g farro (pre-soaked) 60g puffed quinoa 2 x medium banana shallots finely diced 2 cloves garlic pureed (or 10g garlic puree) 10g chopped tarragon 60g white miso paste 50g salted butter 250g mixed wild mushrooms
For mushroom stock — 200g shiitake — 200g button mushrooms — 500g dried mixed mushrooms (porchini or shiitake work best) — 100ml dark soy sauce — 1.5ltrs water — 2 sprigs thyme
METHOD
First you will need to make the mushroom stock (you can make this the day before to allow the flavour to infuse and intensify). Tear the shiitake and button mushrooms with your hands and place in medium thick based pan, add the remainder of the ingredients and bring to the boil. Once up to the boil turn the heat down to a simmer. Place a lid and simmer for 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Once chilled pass through a fine sieve, reserving the liquid. In a thick-based pan lightly sweat your shallots garlic with a little oil. Drain your pre-soaked farro and pearl barley and add them to the pan, continuously stirring. After two minutes add the bulgur and freekah, cook for a further two minutes. Gradually add your mushroom stock a large ladle at a time while continuously stirring. As the grains cook and soak up the liquid keeping adding a ladle at a time for approx 15 minutes or until the grains are cooked (have a slight bite). Clean and fry off the wild mushrooms in a little oil, season with salt and the remainder of the chopped tarragon. To serve ladle the grains into a bowl, sprinkle with the puffed quinoa and add the wild mushrooms.
How did your love of food start? I started cooking when I was Marc Hardiman very young; I grew up in Bristol and Bath, in the city but near the countryside. I spent a lot of time with my grandparents – my parents can’t cook, they’re quite happy for me to say it, my mum’s signature dish is spag bol from the jar. But my nana was very good. I spent a lot of time with her learning the basics. I didn’t go to college to cook – I went for hospitality management. I was sent to a restaurant called Castle House in Herefordshire for a summer placement, which at the time was the number one restaurant in the country. I went for three months, and didn’t come back for three and a half years. I then worked all over, from Manchester to Oxfordshire, London to Devon. And what came next? By 30, I felt like I’d achieved everything I'd wanted to. I was working a lot and wasn’t enjoying it anymore. I decided that I was going to take a year and go travelling – I moved to Australia with the idea of enjoying myself for a bit. I got there, and applied for a job at a three hat restaurant, which is the equivalent of three Michelin stars [in Australia]. I’d serve great food in the morning, and then surf and swim in the afternoon. Then Marc Hardiman, head chef at Galvin I spent a year travelling Asia. What brought you back to the at Windows, on burnout, foraging UK? Honestly, I ran out of and connecting with nature money! I got myself a job at a hotel called Great Fosters in Surrey, and spent the next four years there. We achieved great things: we opened a second restaurant; became hotel of the year; took it to four AA red stars; and won numerous awards. It was nice to be part of somewhere so driven. How did travelling change how you approached cooking? I was so burnt out. I’d been head chef and exec chef at these one Michelin star places, had cooked at all levels, had had all these great jobs. And when you’re younger, I suppose you’re not as knowledgeable and you chase everything – you chase the stars and burn the candle at both ends. You think you’re invincible and bionic, and that’s not the case. After a while it takes effect. Going away gave me a renewed outlook, which in turn translated into cooking for myself – instead of cooking for the guides and what I thought people wanted. To come Miso and mushrooms back and fall in love with it all over again was make the perfect addition great. It was a really nice time in my career. to a grain risotto I had a new outlook: before, I lived to work,
Foodie TALES
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Recipe | FOOD & DRINK Galvin at Window's spectacular view over Hyde Park helps inspire Marc's seasonal menus
whereas when I came back, I started working to live as well. Do you feel the restaurant industry is moving towards slower practises? I think so. Food is doing a bit of a 180. It’s much better perceived now that simpler is better: it’s all about flavour, seasonality, and people are much more aware now of the provenance of what they’re eating – and sustainability. All of this gastronomic cuisine, with the 20 plus flavours and powders and jellies and foams… It doesn’t exist anymore. Good food starts off with finding a great supplier that delivers you a great product. The better the product, the easier my job is, because the less I need to do with it. I just need to treat it with care. How do you embrace it? We do a lot of foraging. I took the team a week ago. And I’ve recently had a little boy, so I’m currently spending a lot of my time walking him and my dog around Wimbledon Common – and spotting hedge garlic, etc.I always say to people that you can forage anywhere. I have free corn and garlic grown in my backyard and I walk down my street to see bronze sorrel growing. Do you think about seasonality and sustainability a lot? I was lucky enough to start in a great restaurant for this – and seasonality was drummed into me growing up in the countryside, too. One of the nicest things about working at Galvin at Windows is that we’re on the 28th floor, looking out over Hyde Park. I get to see the seasons change. I don’t know if it’s just the romance of food, but
certainly as soon as spring starts, I love peas, and asparagus, the fresh colours. And by the end of summer I want to make stews and dumplings. We change menus regularly to work with the food seasons, because while spring might be three to four months, asparagus, for example, is only around for nine or ten weeks. So it also helps us be adaptable and able to work flexibly. You sound very connected to the rhythms of the year. Do you feel food is a particularly special way to connect to nature? I wouldn’t be doing what I’m doing if I didn’t believe that. Food is generally just special. I suppose that the restaurant is me telling the story of parts of my life, things that I’ve learned, and showing what we can do across the year. And seasonality plays into that, and restaurants play a big part in educating people around seasonality. There’s nothing worse than going into a restaurant in November and seeing spring veg on the menu. We get to give people a little push about what is actually good at this time of year. What's the first thing you’ll teach your son to cook? Anyone new who works with me gets a little recipe card that says: ‘Chef ’s Coffee’. It’s very detailed. But no, I want to teach him a Sunday roast. British beef and Yorkshire puddings. The one thing I’d like for him to grow up with is an appreciation of what you have and where it’s come from. What goes into a plate of dinner. People have given their soul to that, so please appreciate it. n
IN SHORT FARMERS' MARKET Malton, Yorkshire. COOK BOOK I always go back to White Heat by Marco Pierre White. He is a rock star. NAMES TO WATCH Douglas Balish (at The Fernery Restaurant at the Grove of Narberth) and George Farrugia (at Noizé in London). SNACK This is pretty criminal, but I love a crisp sandwich. SEASONAL INGREDIENT Mushrooms are coming in, and truffles. CHILD-FRIENDLY FOOD He eats what we eat, we just remove the salt. He’s also very happy with a slice of watermelon. September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 195
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Le Manoir has retained its two Michelin stars for almost 40 years; (below) Raymond Blanc in Le Manoir’s garden
Cooking Up a MASTERPIECE
I
The future looks brighter than ever for Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Raymond Blanc’s pièce de résistance that is decades in the crafting, says Amy Wakeham
t’s hard to call Raymond Blanc a chef. Or, rather, it’s hard to call him just a chef. No, it’d be more apt to call him a master storyteller, a weaver of fairytales, and an architect of fabulously real castles in the sky – or should that be manoirs in the sky? Because Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, a Belmond Hotel, in Great Milton, Oxfordshire, really is a dream come true. Over more than 39 years he and the rest of the team at his carefully constructed masterpiece have perfected the art of hospitality. Everything is seamless. Every sight line is immaculate. From the moment you arrive and are handed a chilled glass of Veuve Clicquot or Hundred Hills English sparkling, to the moment you are waved off by the personable (but never stuffy) team, your stay at the hotel and restaurant feels guided by a warm, omniscient hand. No other restaurant in the world has held onto two Michelin stars for almost 40 years, as Le Manoir has. It has also received a Michelin Green
Le Manoir’s garden supplies the majority of its fresh produce; (right) sustainability mastermind Rhodri Williams
Star since the accolade was introduced three years ago, which recognises eco-friendly practices in the restaurant industry. Its attitude to the environment is shaped by Raymond’s own childhood experiences in Franche-Comté, France, where his mother cooked with fresh vegetables from the family garden, and he and his brother foraged, hunted and fished their way through the forests and rivers that fill that region. Today, a sculpture of his mother sits in the herb bed at Le Manoir; it’s just one of many scattered through the 27 immaculate acres of organic gardens and orchards, which are lovingly tended by 13 gardeners, and hum with insects, birds and wildlife. They provide the majority of the kitchen’s fresh produce in the summer months, and any waste goes into an on-site super composter that breaks it down in a matter of days. Soon
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Feature | FOOD & DRINK all the kitchen’s food waste will also be added to that, explains Rhodri Williams, Facilities, Environmental and Sustainability Manager at Le Manoir. ‘And we’ll be closing the loop on food waste, which is amazing.’ Rhodri himself has just hit 19 years of employment at Le Manoir: until 2019 he was the executive sous chef, meaning no one understands better the symbiosis between kitchen and garden. He’s now driving the hotel’s sustainability agenda, which is impressively thorough, covering everything from its supply chain to its carbon emissions to its waste management – no wonder it won the Country & Town House x Polestar Sustainable Hotel Award 2023 earlier this year. ‘I think sustainability is a prerequisite for luxury,’ says Rhodri. ‘I want people to come to us, you know. We’ve always set the benchmark on food. Why can’t we set the benchmark for sustainability?’ But the scent of change is in the air at Le Manoir. It got the green light from the council last year on a £36 million investment programme, which will include building new garden villas, a spa and a more informal bistro. ‘It is essential that we reinvent Le Manoir and prepare it for the future,’ said Raymond Blanc in a statement. At the heart of this vision for the next 30 years is Le Manoir’s new head chef, rising star Luke Selby, who joined in January 2023. Luke came to Le Manoir as a teenager, and learnt the ropes under Raymond and previous head chef Gary Jones, before heading out to
FROM TOP: Le Manoir has 27 acres of gardens and grounds; Raymond’s protégé and Le Manoir’s new head chef, Luke Selby; local and seasonal spring lamb and asparagus
gain experience at the likes of Dabbous, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Hide, as well as his own acclaimed project, Evelyn’s Table, which he ran with his two younger brothers, Theo and Nathaniel. They also joined him as sous chefs when he returned to Le Manoir. ‘I wasn’t nervous, I was very excited,’ says the young, softly spoken chef on being called up by Raymond to lead the kitchen. ‘We’ve made a lot of changes in the last seven months and we’re starting to build a really strong team now.’ At the heart of Luke’s – and Raymond’s – ongoing vision for Le Manoir is increased staff wellbeing, as well as sustainability. ‘The goal here is to be a shining example to the industry of how a business should operate and how staff should be treated,’ says Luke. ‘RB is a huge advocate of that, he always has been… He always says that new modern luxury is different. Modern guests are changing. People care about sustainability, where the fish comes from, where the meat comes from, how it’s sourced and treated, and down to the kitchens and how the staff are treated.’ Luke also wants to continue Raymond’s legacy of shaping Britain’s – and the wider world’s – cuisine through training its next generation of top chefs (Le Manoir has so far educated 36 chefs who’ve gone on to lead restaurants to win Michelin stars, including Marco Pierre White, Michael Caines and Eric Chavot). Monsieur Blanc’s touch can be seen in every area of Le Manoir, from the softly luxurious rooms to the carefully planned gardens. But, after almost 40 years of building his masterpiece, the reality is that the chef will have to retire at some point. Is Luke Raymond’s heir apparent, then? ‘Yeah, we’ll see,’ laughs Luke. ‘We’re in a good place. But I don’t think he’ll ever stop. He’s always involved, he’s always here, he loves it. This is his home. He says it’s not about his legacy or anything, he just wants to leave it in a better place and make a difference. And he’s doing that.’ He certainly is – and if you treat yourself to a trip to Le Manoir you can see the fairytale in action for yourself. belmond.com n September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 197
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FOOD & DRINK | News WILD SIDE OF COOKING
Game might be the best way to eat meat (see p134), so we’re, er, game. But the real challenge with game isn’t in catching it – it’s in preparing it. Sauce by the Langham is running expert-led ‘Forest to Fork’ masterclasses to help you rustle up a dinner party showstopper. saucebylangham.com
Gastro GOSSIP Fresh food news for the autumn, By Tessa Dunthorne
COCKTAIL PARTY
Mr Ryan Lyan – the bartender behind London’s best boozers, including world’s best bar Lyaness – wants to give you a 1:1 on making a proper tipple. His new cocktail book, Mr Lyan’s Cocktails At Home, is a hosting companion that’ll have you shaking up an impressive Manhattan in no time. Stock up your drinks cabinet (and bookshelf) immediately. Out 21 Sept. (White Lion Publishing, £20)
CHIT-CHAAT
We’re waking up to the smell of Fortnum & Mason’s aromatic new coffee collection – and we’ll definitely be keeping and reusing the pretty illustrated house blend tins. These blends make an indulgent cup of joe, with the department store’s beans supplied by Huddesfield-based Dark Woods Coffee. £14.95, fortnumand mason.com
GROCERY RUN
Your weekly restock just became a tiny bit more glam. Andreas of Chelsea Green, the produce haven beloved by the likes of Nigella, has opened an all-new extension, and now has rows upon rows of exceptional exotic fruit and veg, plus a veritable rainbow of juicy tomatoes. 6-8 Cale Street, SW13. andreasveg.co.uk
BOTTOMS UP There are
only 203 bottles of these 50-yearold, blended grain scotch whiskies. No 31 by The Last Drop is a complex blend with surprising fruity overtones that stem from decades maturing in a cool climate. A real bar trolley pleaser. £2,550, limited edition, lastdropdistillers.com
PHOTOS: © STEVEN JOYCE
GOT BEANS
Spice seekers rejoice. The Rosewood Hong Kong’s CHAAT restaurant travels to the UK for a three night pop-up, in celebration of the London outpost’s tenth birthday. The one Michelinstarred restaurant will bring a mouthwatering menu to the the Holborn Dining Room, celebrating homemade Indian classics alongside delicious street food. From 10-12 Oct, rosewoodhotels.com
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Hamilton Quay, Eastbourne, East Sussex Commanding breathtaking views over the adjacent harbour to the sea and to the South Downs – a remarkably spacious and superbly refurbished penthouse apartment Private passenger lift • Large reception hall • Magnificent 37” L shaped open plan sitting room/dining room/kitchen • 3 balconies commanding glorious views • 4 Spacious bedrooms suites with refitted bathrooms/shower rooms • Underfloor heating and double glazing • Study • Large undercover double garage • Additional private parking space • EPC: C
GUIDE PRICE
£1,500,000
CONTACT Town Centre Office: 01323 430133 Old Town Office: 01323 419911 Alfriston: 01323 871171 EMAIL sales@ragerroberts.co.uk
w w w. r a g e r r o b e r t s . c o . u k
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PROPERTY Edited by Anna Tyzack
HOUSE OF THE MONTH
Ashford, Kent, £5.5m Six bedrooms, four bathrooms 6,652 sq/ft of living space, rose garden, tennis court, pool
Why is it amazing? Vane Court is a stunning and immaculately presented home, featured in numerous historic publications including Pevsner, which described the property as ‘the only house in Biddenden of the Wealden type’. What’s the design like? A quintessential Grade II*-listed hall house, with all modern conveniences, located within a glorious estate. Any juicy history? In 1937, Vane Court became the royal residence of King of Siam (now Thailand) Rama VII, who was the last absolute King of Siam, following his abdication in 1935. It is believed that the King had to sleep in the attic room (now known as The King’s Bedroom) because of Siamese custom that meant no head in the house could be higher than his. The King and Queen Rambai Barni adjusted to village life quickly and were frequently spotted out and about on their bicycles and attending fêtes. It is also believed that the King and Queen were so concerned with being seen to have favourite businesses in Biddenden that they had to alternate between the shops they frequented. Best room in the house? It has to be the light, south-facing drawing room with a beautiful oak framed fireplace and wood burner. Why should I buy it? With transport links back into London conveniently nearby, we think that Vane Court will appeal to those looking for the perfect slice of country living in the garden of England, with the ability to commute back into London at ease. You can now sleep in what was once the King of Siam’s bedroom or spend sunny afternoons beside the King’s Pond. +44 (0)20 7409 5945; savills.com September /October 2023 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | 201
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Many families are packing up and moving back to the city – although the country remains popular, with a shortage of stock meaning many are having to rent
SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO?
A
ll summer the narrow lanes around fashionable Bruton in Somerset buzzed with lorries and diggers as a new generation of families renovated the homes they bought during Covid. Yet as annexes went up and pools and padel courts went in, whispers of an impending property market crash couldn’t help but rattle those who made the ‘race for space’ from London during the pandemic. ‘The interest-rate brakes being applied more strongly to slow the economy are now beginning to bite in the housing market,’ confirms Tim Bannister, Rightmove’s director of property science. With the gloomiest pundits forecasting a 20 percent drop in prices, which would wipe off much of the gains made during the pandemic, the worry is the country house will return to how it was before Covid, when prices looked cheap compared to London and anything outside the commuter belt took months to sell. During the pandemic, prices rose more than £100,000 in five regions, with London buyers fleeing as far down the tracks as Devon, Norfolk and Yorkshire for a period property with a buffer of paddocks and a pool to cool off in post conference call. The average value of a detached house now stands 25 percent higher than it was at the start of 2020, according to figures from the Halifax, yet Ed Rook, head of Knight Frank’s country department, admits that a cooler wind is blowing with fewer buyers, fewer transactions and prices coming off. There are certainly a number of good reasons not to buy a sprawling country house this autumn: high living costs and rising borrowing costs
with interest rates the highest in 15 years. Plus, there’s the dreaded call back to the office. Even Zoom, pioneer of the video call, is demanding its employees work at least part of the time from the office. In a recent survey of members of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors, a clear majority predicted that house prices will be lower in a year’s time. Those who missed out during the pandemic buying frenzy will appreciate this calmer market, Rook says, but if they’re waiting for prices to collapse they can think again – the market is simply returning to business as usual following the Covid frenzy. ‘Demand was unprecedented and it was never going to be sustained at those levels,’ he points out. ‘Demand generally for city and rural properties is now back to normal.’ Even with interest rates on the rise, there’s too much equity in the country property market for there to be the fire sales the newspapers are gleefully forecasting, adds Tom Hudson, a property finder with Middleton Advisors. A third of the properties in the country are mortgage free and for those over £3m plus the figure is closer to 50 percent. ‘Debt is thus small enough that the mortgage crisis isn’t making a big difference,’ Hudson explains. ‘There might be a few strategic sales, particularly around the coast where people have overstretched themselves for a second home, but for the most part people will sit on their hands rather than trade for a lower price.’ Already the building societies’ housing indices are reporting small price falls (three percent for Halifax and four and a half percent for Nationwide) but prices in the prime country property market have stayed
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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES
The Covid country property market bubble has burst. So what’s next? asks Anna Tyzack
PROPERTY much the same since they shot up, Hudson says, even though transaction levels are down. In worst case scenarios Knight Frank’s country department is witnessing a five percent deceleration, according to Rook, but prices, he confirms, are by no means tanking. Kallum Pickering, a senior economist at Berenberg, who originally predicted a ten percent drop in prices, is now forecasting that they will bottom out before growing again in the second half of 2024 and beyond as the economy strengthens, a hypothesis shared by both Hudson and Rook. While those with a desk in London will be less inclined to buy in Penzance, the call back to the office will not kill the country market, insists Hudson, as flexibility is still there for most workers. ‘The countryside appeals for all the same reasons it did during the pandemic and commuting is only getting more comfortable – the Elizabeth Line, for example, has made travelling to London much easier from parts of Hampshire and Berkshire,’ he says. Meanwhile, living in the countryside is more convenient, too, Rook adds, with an improved sense of community post-Covid and better pubs and amenities. Frustratingly, for those looking to buy a country house this autumn, there is a dearth of quality £2 million-plus country houses for sale. Homeowners are less inclined to sell than ever, Hudson explains, due to high stamp duty costs and the lack of anywhere decent to move to, and this is leading to overvaluing as estate agents compete for new stock. Hudson recently heard of a house that was valued by three separate agents at £4.5 million, £5.5 million and £9 million, eventually finding its market at £5 million. Those country properties that are correctly priced, meanwhile, are still regularly selling for over their guide: estate agency The Country House Department has agreed £86,620,000 worth of sales so far in 2023, with the collective guide prices being almost £2 million less. What's next – country or city? ‘We know of families who moved
Experts believe the market is simply returning to business as usual following the Covid frenzy
out of London in the wake of Covid into rented houses near their children’s new school while they searched for a house and are now going into their third year of renting,’ says Andrew Russell, co-founder of The Country House Department. ‘The shortage of stock is the principal reason that prices have not dropped significantly, and this isn’t likely to change any time soon.’ The elephant in the room for this sector of the property market is the possibility of a Labour government removing independent schools’ charitable status, prompting a fee hike that many parents won’t be able to weather. Yet even if this happens, Hudson doesn’t predict country property prices will crash or even correct significantly. ‘Some parents will have to take their children into the state system but good independent schools will survive and best-in-class houses within reach of them will always be sought after,’ he says. Rook agrees: the countryside, he says, is part of a stage in life for many families and for them it will always be irresistible. n
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ON THE MARKET
Bridgwater, Somerset, £850,000 This charming cottage, draped in wisteria, is actually a spacious five-bedroom farmhouse, with four characterful wood-beamed reception rooms. Outside, the pretty walled garden is a sheltered spot, and you can grow herbs, fruit and veggies in the kitchen garden. jackson-stops.co.uk
Withington, Glos, £1.65m Beautiful Daffodil House, on the fringe of the popular Cotswold village of Withington, offers five bedrooms and four bathrooms. There’s an open plan kitchen/dining room that opens onto a patio, plus ample space for a home office, studio or children’s playroom. thecountryhousedepartment.com
Kingham, Oxon, £3m With four bedrooms and a striking contemporary open-plan layout, this barn conversion has a private terrace and lawn, as well as access to spectacular communal spaces, including a heated outdoor swimming pool, outdoor kitchen area, lake, gym and office/meeting room. knightfrank.co.uk
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PROPERTY | Five of the Best
COUNTRY HOMES
You’ll be to the manor born in one of these grand piles. By Martha Davies Barnham, West Sussex, £4.5m
This Grade I-listed home provides five bedroom suites and a separate guest cottage, while the grounds contain Anglo-Dutch parterre gardens and a heated swimming pool. Want to throw a party (or host a ball)? Check out the aptly-named Great Room. jackson-stops.co.uk
Ashbourne, Derbyshire, £3.4m On this magnificent estate you’ll find a five-bedroom Georgian mansion, a separate three-bedroom cottage and a former stable block containing a gym and home office. There’s even a domed clock tower to explore, plus five acres of mature gardens, grounds, paddock and orchard. fishergerman.co.uk
Tonbridge, Kent, £6.5m
Occupying a spot on the formal grounds of the 500-acre Redleaf Estate, this is a country home like no other. Highlights include a games area, basement cinema room and a vast wine cellar, plus its own leisure complex with a heated swimming pool and gym. knightfrank.com
Vowchurch, Hereford, £9.55m
On the site of a medieval deer park in the rolling Herefordshire hills, this Grade II-listed manor offers commanding views of the Golden Valley and Forest of Dean. The estate boasts a tennis court, orangery and a pavilion housing a stone-clad swimming pool and summer dining room. savills.co.uk
Michaelstow, Cornwall, £2.25m
This wisteria-clad former rectory is a bucolic dream of a house. It’s full of period features like sash windows, shutters and wooden floors. You’ll also spot a heated swimming pool outside. The 4.5-acre grounds include a wildflower meadow and walled garden. johnbrayestates.co.uk
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– An established Holiday Cottage and Caravan complex ideal for an owner-occupier or as an investment. .
A 19th Century detached 5 bedroom Victorian Farmhouse, with a range of outbuildings and river frontage Eleven self-contained Cottages within the curtilage providing 27 Beds (sleeping 66) 20 Touring Caravan pitches with electric hook-ups and toilet and shower facilities Planning permission for an additional 35 touring pitches (near completion), and three luxury holiday lodges. A pair of semi-detached tenanted farmworkers cottages Set in grounds of about 8.45 acres, with a further field of circa 5.5 acres available to purchase, if required for year ending Sept 2022 Freehold For Sale - Guide Price £3,250,000
Humberts T: 01603 661199 Humberts.indd 1
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DESIGNED WITH COMMUNITY LIVING IN MIND Tim Banks, CEO of The Octagon Group comments, “Since launching the final collection of homes, we’ve already had four off-plan reservations, one from a client who has just secured his third property within the development. This will be one of the last opportunities to buy at our flagship parkland estate, offering beautiful houses with stunning landscaping, all the while encompassing a real community spirit.” Ranging from spacious two bedroom apartments through to three and four bedroom terraces and four to seven bedroom detached houses, Broadoaks Park exudes luxury from the gated entrance right through to the brickwork detailing and luscious mature planting. Now over 50% occupied with new residents moving in each week, the new community includes local downsizers and young families leaving the capital for more space, through to international investors. Regular neighbourhood gatherings are taking place on the vast village green. Indeed, Octagon recently hosted their own residents’ picnic, with over 100 Broadoaks Park residents attending with their families for grazing boards, cocktails, hampers and games under the central 300 year old oak tree.
A showstopping new development of 126 homes and seven acres of open space in leafy West Byfleet, Broadoaks Park is Surrey’s exclusive country estate, by luxury developer, Octagon. Offering a collection of contemporary new build homes alongside striking Grade II Listed conversions, this 25 acre site has seen continuous sales demand since the initial 2019 launch. In fact, buyers are so taken with the new gated community, the latest phase has seen buyers reserving up to two years in advance of completion – a reflection of not just the development itself, but the heritage housebuilder’s unrivalled reputation for quality and customer service.
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The Broadoaks Park Residents’ Picnic
The new homes are sympathetically designed to complement the 19th Century architecture of the Grade II Listed Broadoaks Mansion, where extensive restoration work is currently underway
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to transform the historical building into two spectacular and unique homes, due to launch in 2024. The surrounding Listed Coach House and Lodges have already been converted into contemporary homes, and have all sold, with new Octagon clients having moved in. Inside, homes are designed with high specification finishes throughout, including a bespoke kitchen designed with high gloss lacquer or matt finished cabinets, a full range of integrated appliances and boiling hot water taps. Detailing includes the signature Octagon bespoke plaster cornices and fitted wardrobes to the master bedrooms, while bathrooms are finished with Villeroy & Boch sanitary ware and polished chrome fittings. Broadoaks Park is perfectly positioned to provide quick and easy access to London, both international airports, nearby local amenities and Surrey’s outstanding green spaces, as well as the excellent local schooling. London Waterloo can be reached by train from just 30 minutes, offering new residents the perfect balance between outdoor, and better connected living.
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The final collection of homes in Phase 5 start from £750,000 for a 2-bedroom apartment and £1,150,000 for houses.
broadoakspark.co.uk
Octagon Developments 020 8481 7500 octagon.co.uk @octagondevelopments
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LAST WORD Could great design be the secret to increasing the uptake of electric vehicles?
Tales of our Time
How do we end our love affair with the combustion engine? asks Michael Hayman
E
lectric cars are fast winning the battle for our minds but they still have a long way to go to win our hearts.
Law changes in 2030 will see the end of new petrol engine sales, while this summer the scorching heat of European beaches brought home the urgent realities of climate change. But undoing our love affair with the combustion engine is going to take more than the conviction of matters legal and logic. And it could be design that tips the balance by ushering in a new golden age of sustainable travel. The original golden age of travel was a 20th century dream when mass availability met luxury and elegance to deliver the sense of endless possibilities for the motorist. The symbolism of this was much on display at a classic car gathering called the Ennstal Picnic high in the Austrian alps earlier this year. And to glance at
this veritable fleet of fancy was to understand that a car is so much more than something to get you from A to B, or engines to simply jam the pedal to the metal. Many stand as some of the great design classics of our time, inspiring symbols of the imagination. But take a trip a little further down memory lane to the beginning of the 20th century and the newly invented ‘horseless carriages’ were seen as ugly oddities that would never catch on. And while many will claim that it was the advances in technology that tipped the scales for change, it misses the point that it was style, aesthetics and design that inspired us. Sir William Lyons stands as one of our own motoring greats. The co-founder of Jaguar, he promised cars with ‘grace, space and pace’. Ponder for a moment on the word ordering, for it is an important statement of priorities. Arguably it is the Jaguar E-Type that stands at the apex of the feline marque. My father used to have one in the Sixties. To ask him how it
drove was to pose the wrong question. Few really remember its cornering abilities for the right reasons. But ask him how it made him feel. Now that’s the question to see the eyes mist and the memories flow. Fast forward to today’s new electric entrants and it’s difficult to get the pulse racing when the adjectives that come to mind are the likes of ubiquitous, uniform and similar. No one can doubt the incredible advances in battery technology, nor the fine tuning of engines to rival their combustion engine competitors. But this is only half the battle in delivering progress. It was the philosopher Thomas Hobbes who wisely observed that people are creatures of passion first and reason second. And while a new generation of cars will need to deliver performance and power it is the opportunity to usher in a new generation of breathtaking beauty and design that will win the hearts of tomorrow’s motorist. And that is what electric dreams could be made of. n
TA L K I N G P O I N T S
VISIT London Literature Festival at the Southbank will welcome actors Jada Pinkett Smith, Kerry Washington and Sir Patrick Stewart (southbankcentre.co.uk). LISTEN Tortoise: Mel’s Electric Adventure – life and electric cars with comedian Mel Giedroyc (tortoisemedia.com). READ Amor Towles’ The Lincoln Highway – a road trip to remember from 1950s America (Cornerstone, £9.99). 208 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.COM | September /October 2023
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