Country & Town House - September/October 2020

LIVING A BALANCED LIFE

DOG DAYS Interior designers and their fourlegged friends

ROUND TABLE How food can

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 £4.90

CLAUDIA SCHIFFER Reflecting on life at 50

ART Reframed Putting black portraiture in the picture

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AU D E M A R S PI G U E T B O U T I Q U E S LO N D O N : S LOA N E S T R E E T · H A R R O D S F I N E WATC H E S AP HOUSE LONDON : NEW BOND STREET

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Les Giettes, Valais, © Ivo Scholz

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CONTENTS S E P T E M B E R / O C T OB E R 2 0 2 0

COLUMNS 18

THE GOOD LIFE Alice B-B finds puppy love at last 20 THE RURBANIST There’s been no rest for Ben Ainslie this summer 152 LAST WORD Michael Hayman ponders his lockdown epiphany

UPFRONT 23 24 28 30 32 35 38 40 44 46 47

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50 51 52

JUST LIKE MAGIC Lose yourself in Chanel Haute Couture THE EDIT Mariella Tandy’s countdown to the new season starts here COUNTRY STYLE Head out of town THE SCOOP Selfridges goes sustainable and meet the next game-changing gadget THE MAGPIE Earrings that give back and the new names to know WORKS LIKE A CHARM Annoushka Ducas redefines bespoke jewellery MY STYLE What to wear on-the-go with Patricia Gucci LUCIA LOVES Back to beautiful basics with Sunspel BODY LANGUAGE Olivia Falcon contemplates longevity after lockdown THE CLOSE UP Getting to know Dr Marwa Ali, Harrods’ skin genius POWDER ROOM Flirty fragrances and next-gen skin science BODY & SOUL Five positive changes to make today. By Camilla Hewitt SPA TREK Daisy Finer finds regeneration at Grayshott Spa WELL GROOMED Men’s style news

THE GUIDE 55 56 58 60 62

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63 64

A TOUCH OF FROST The Arctic’s past and future at the British Museum EVENTS Ellie Smith welcomes culture’s real-life comeback THE EXHIBITIONIST The Design Museum gets a rave review from Ed Vaizey RENAISSANCE MAN The opera singer putting black portraiture in the frame ARTIST’S STUDIO Philipp Humm is envisioning a Faustian tech future GOOD READS Richard Hopton reviews four novels by authors of colour GREEN SHOOTS Growing organic veg at home with David Domoney

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CONTENTS S E P T E M B E R / O C T OB E R 2 0 2 0

THE GUIDE CONT...

65 66 68

THE OLYMPIAN Sebastian Coe on the lessons we can learn from lockdown ROAD TEST BMW’s new 3 Series estate is über-efficient, says Jeremy Taylor CONVERSATIONS AT SCARFES BAR Charlotte Metcalf meets Diana Thomas

FEATURES 72 82 86 91 94

SMOKE & MIRRORS Fashion is an art form; you are your own masterpiece I, CLAUDIA The supermodel turns 50 HOUSE & HOUND At home with designers and their dogs ISN’T LIFE WONDERFUL? Vanessa Branson reveals a surprising family history FOOD FOR THOUGHT Food can save us, according to Carolyn Steel

INSIDER 99 100 102 104 106

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ Brighten up your bathroom with juicy hues DESIGN NOTES What’s new, now RECIPE FOR STYLE Kitchens that get the creative juices flowing SECRET SERVICE Anouska Hempel’s new Parisian masterpiece ARTIST’S MUSE Fill you home with colour

FOOD & TRAVEL 109 RESTORATION STORY Amanyangyun

is a hotel with a history to die for 126 PRIVATE PARTS Escape the crowds

in these gorgeous villas 130 THE WEEKENDER Monte-Carlo 131 GASTRO GOSSIP The best of British 132 CRASHING OUT Making huevos

estrellados with Omar Allibhoy 133 RESTAURANT REVIEW Church Road

is almost forgettable, but only almost, says Anastasia Bernhardt

ON THE MOVE 135 PROPERTY OF THE MONTH ON THE COVER Model wears Simone Rocha.

Hair by Alexis Day using Shea Moisture UK. Make-up by Alexis Day using Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation Hydration & Longwear

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INSIDE Model wears top and skirt by Molly Goddard. Briefs by Baserange.

Necklace by Harry Winston. Hair and make-up as before

Sir Kenneth MacMillan’s family home 136 LET’S MOVE TO JERSEY

White sands, palm trees and ‘efficient’ tax 139 FIVE OF THE BEST Artists’ homes

REGULARS 10 EDITOR’S LETTER 12 CONTRIBUTORS 134 STOCKISTS

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EDITOR’S PICKS

94

EDITOR’S LETTER

DRINK The Delevingne sisters’ new prosecco is surprisingly good

W

hile children have returned to school for the first time in six months, grown-ups too are taking the first tentative steps back to the office – at least for part of the time. It’s different, yes, but is this new way of living (for some, at least) such a bad thing in the long run? Doesn’t staying locally in communities where you can walk to nearby shops, get to know your neighbours and spend more time with family sound quite nice, quite rooted, and quite good for the planet in light of something far more pernicious than Covid-19 coming down the track? This is certainly the attitude of Carolyn Steel, author of Sitopia, who I interview on page 94. And what underpins every good society, she argues, is food – an area in which we have made huge mistakes in our ruthless quest for efficiency, production and, ultimately, wealth. It’s not too late and we have all the tools and skills at our disposal to change the status quo, we just need leadership. I’m ready to follow.

While I was reading Sitopia, baritone Peter Brathwaite was on a different lockdown journey. With his professional diary now eerily empty, he has found a new outlet for his creativity.

82

72 Inspired by the #GettyMuseumChallenge, in which he wanted to get involved – but with an angle, he researched historical pictures that depicted people of colour and sought to recreate them himself. This has led to an interesting body of work in its own right and a necessary deep-dive into the history of black portraiture that undoubtedly gets very little look-in in the traditional teaching of art history.

It’s a fascinating insight into how, if we look a little deeper, try a little harder and ask a few more questions, we can challenge preconceptions and, most importantly, learn (p60).

This issue is also full of extraordinary women – either at the apex of their career, discovering new paths or celebrating worthy milestones.

It’s unbelievable to think that supermodel Claudia Schiffer turns 50 this year. She shares her thoughts on ageing on page 82. Jeweller Annoushka Ducas is marking 10 years since launching her eponymous business, telling Vivienne Becker all about it on page 35. And last but not least, in our Scarfes Bar interview, Charlotte Metcalf raises a glass to Diana Thomas, who was crowned Columnist of the Year for her transgender diary (p68).

And, finally a bit of housekeeping. As well as our chart-busting House Guest podcast, interiors editor Carole Annett is launching our new monthly House Guest newsletter, filled with the gems that have caught her magpie’s eye, design hacks, inspirational mood boards and Q&As with some of the biggest names in the industry. I invite you to sign up online at @countryandtown countryandtownhouse. /countryandtownhousemagazine /countryandtownhouse co.uk/newsletter.

READ How Bad Are Bananas? The Carbon Footprint of Everything – does what it says on the tin, really

35

WEAR New season. New boots. I’m going for grey with Celtic & Co

STAY The Mitre in Hampton Court, a new hotel from the COO of Beaverbrook, with a Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s trained chef

10 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | September/October 2020

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55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX

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24 New Cavendish Street, London, W1G 8TX

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24 Brook Street, London, W1K 5DG

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CONTRIBUTORS

SUSANNA SALK

Hopes for the autumn? It’s my favorite time of year.

Even if we don’t have the normal back-toschool feeling to look forward to, nature’s magic will surely still invigorate us.

Favourite artist?

Jean-Michel Basquiat. You could look at his paintings We introduce an extract from in a hundred years Susanna’s new book At Home in the English Countryside on p86 and still discover something new.

Artwork you’d most like to have on your wall? Alfred Steiglitz’s photograph of Georgia O’Keeffe’s hands.

Building you’d most like to live in? Maybe merging Sir John Soane’s Museum with Julian Schnabel’s Palazzo Chupi building in Manhattan? Pedigree and whimsy combined!

VIVIENNE BECKER

Hopes for the autumn? Travelling to New York for book research and also for an infusion of Big Apple energy and inspiration.

Favourite artist?

René Lalique, poet-goldsmith and the genius of Art Nouveau jewellery.

Artwork you’d most like to have on your wall?

Jewellery expert The Kiss by Klimt.

Vivienne interviews Annoushka Ducas on p35 It’s so emotive.

Building you’d most like to live in? I would stay in my little Arts & Crafts cottage if it was completely decorated by my friend, Colleen Brand of Brand Interiors. Everything she touches is magically transformed into the perfect balance of chic and comfortable.

MARY LUSSIANA

Hopes for the autumn? To be able to travel freely again and hug my new grandchild.

Favourite artist?

For sculpture: Michelangelo. For paintings: Rembrandt, Caravaggio, Van Gogh – all depending on my mood at the time.

Artwork you’d most Mary discovers the like to have on your fascinating story behind Aman’s latest hotel on p109 wall? I would love Van Gogh’s Starry Night to be the last thing I saw when switching my bedside light off.

Building you’d most like to live in? Depends on the season.

A Cotswolds manor house in spring; a Portuguese beach house in summer; a farmhouse in Piedmont in the autumn and a wooden chalet in the Alps in winter.

MARCUS SCRIVEN

Hopes for the autumn? Holidaying somewhere sunny and sane – facenappy free.

Favourite artist?

Whoever designed the logo for The Free Speech Union – a pencil in a clenched fist. The FSU points out that free speech is the freedom on which all other freedoms rest.

Artwork you’d Marcus delves into the Branson family history on p91 most like to have on your wall? The Defenestration of Piers Moron – a work of splendour. Yet to be painted.

Building you’d most like to live in? Frank Day’s room at Tara, Bosham – he was a Spitfire pilot and survivor of the Great Escape.

His room, overlooking the water, seemed to be filled with his spirit.

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Chelsea 8

BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES MANUFACTURER AND SUPPLIER OF FOOTWEAR CROCKETT & JONES LIMITED, NORTHAMPTON

MADE IN ENGLAND | SINCE 1879

A classic, Goodyear-welted, Chelsea boot made in England using the finest Burnished Calf & featuring our flexible City rubber sole

CROCKETTANDJONES.COM

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LUCY CLELAND EDITOR

EDITOR-AT-LARGE ALICE B-B ASSOCIATE EDITOR CHARLOTTE METCALF MANAGING EDITOR AMY WAKEHAM SUB EDITOR BELINDA BAMBER FEATURES ASSISTANT & SUB EDITOR SOFIA TINDALL FASHION DIRECTOR NICOLE SMALLWOOD BEAUTY DIRECTOR NATHALIE ELENI FASHION EDITOR LUCY BOND LUXURY EDITOR LUCIA VAN DER POST INTERIORS EDITOR CAROLE ANNETT EXECUTIVE RETAIL EDITOR MARIELLA TANDY PROPERTY EDITOR ANNA TYZACK MOTORING EDITOR JEREMY TAYLOR ONLINE EDITOR REBECCA COX ONLINE WRITER ELLIE SMITH ONLINE ASSISTANT DANIELLA SAUNDERS ONLINE INTERN DINA NAGAPETYANTS CREATIVE & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PARM BHAMRA PRODUCTION DESIGNER SAMUEL THOMAS ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ELLIE RIX SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER PANDORA LEWIS DIGITAL MANAGER ADAM DEAN TECHNICAL MANAGER HANNAH JOHNSON TECHNICAL DIRECTOR MARK PEARSON FINANCE DIRECTOR JILL NEWEY FINANCE CONTROLLER LAUREN HARTLEY PROPERTY & MARKETING ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR GEMMA COWLEY GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR TIA GRAHAM MANAGING DIRECTOR JEREMY ISAAC CONTRIBUTING EDITORS STEPHEN BAYLEY, SIMON DE BURTON, FIONA DUNCAN, OLIVIA FALCON, DAISY FINER, LYDIA GARD, AVRIL GROOM, RICHARD HOPTON, EMMA LOVE, MARY LUSSIANA, ANNA PASTERNAK, CAROLINE PHILLIPS, HOLLY RUBENSTEIN, MARCUS SCRIVEN THE EDITOR EDITORIAL@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK FASHION FASHION@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK ADVERTISING ADVERTISING@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK PROPERTY ADVERTISING PROPERTY@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK ACCOUNTS ACCOUNTS@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE@COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK

COUNTRY & TOWN HOUSE is a monthly magazine distributed to AB homes in Barnes, Battersea, Bayswater, Belgravia, Brook Green, Chelsea, Chiswick, Clapham, Coombe, Fulham, Holland Park, Kensington, Knightsbridge, Marylebone, Mayfair, Notting Hill, Pimlico, South Kensington, Wandsworth and Wimbledon, as well as being available from leading country and London estate agents. It is also on sale at selected WHSmith, Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury’s stores and independent newsagents nationwide. It has an estimated readership of 150,000. It is available on subscription in the UK for £29.99 per annum. To subscribe online, iPad, iPhone and android all for only £24.99 visit: exacteditions.com/read/ countrytownhouse. For subscription enquiries, please call 020 7384 9011 or email subscribe@countryandtownhouse.co.uk. It is published by Country & Town House Ltd, Studio 2, Chelsea Gate Studios, 115 Harwood Road, London SW6 4QL (tel: 020 7384 9011). Registered number 576850 England and Wales. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons and Sons Ltd, West Midlands. Paper supplied by Gerald Judd. Distribution by Letterbox.

Copyright © 2020 Country & Town House Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Materials are accepted on the understanding that no liability is incurred for safe custody. The publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited material.

All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Whilst every care is taken to ensure information is correct at time of going to press, it is subject to change, and C&TH Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors.

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18ct Gold Lovelock from £935 1 South Molton Street 41 Cadogan Gardens 10-11 Burlington Arcade Harrods • Liberty Harvey Nichols

@annoushkajewellery 07748 788641

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COLUMN Zoom. A new client. And a team of ten expectant faces staring at me; eager, wanting to know who I was, willing me to be fabulous, entertaining, inspiring.

My inner monologue: ‘Introduce myself? FFS! I’ve got nothing prepared.

How the hell can I introduce myself when I don’t even know who the hell I am?’ While that’s going on in my head, I could bloody see the physical manifestation on the screen in front of me; racing heart, shaking hands, reddening face.

I muddled through. But I’ve decided this has got to end. Not being able to introduce myself, let alone speak in public, is seriously hampering my confidence and my career. I turn down exciting projects voice, and miss out on speaking jobs. So I called Milly Ellis at Be-Heard, a top professional voice coach for business, public speaking and the dramatic arts. We discuss my ‘issue’. And we begin unpicking the archaeology of my voice. Did I go quiet as a child, when was I silenced, why do I feel judged? So we’ve made a plan – together we’re going to find my voice. It’s definitely there – but it needs love, honesty and attention.

POST-LOCKDOWN HIGHLIGHTS... are a total joy with my favourite Josh Wood. We discussed how beauty treatments have changed since March. ‘It’s about a new natural,’ Josh explains. ‘Looking too “done” doesn’t work right now.

It’s ageing.’ The beauty treatment I really missed in lockdown are my twice-yearly Profhilo injections at Waterhouse Young clinic. The hyaluronic acid disperses beneath the skin, smudging out my fine lines and making me look glowy and dewy.

Because the new au naturel is all about sly tweaks. Looking fresh, not overly done. n

THE GOOD LIFE

THIS MONTH I’LL BE

Alice B-B on finding her and a new love

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Not in the mood to shop, except for the brilliant Issimo x Matches collaboration – especially the Anya Hindmarch bag. matches fashion.com

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Revisiting my youth at Electronic: From Kraftwerk to The Chemical Brothers at the Design Museum. design museum.org

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A regular at my new local The Royal Oak in Ramsden; old walls, new magic. royaloak ramsden.com

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’M IN LOVE. She’s blonde, bouncy and very greedy. And she’s called Betty. I’ve always longed for her. But with my peripatetic life it just didn’t make sense. Then Covid-19 happened.

My life slowed down, I wasn’t jumping on a plane every week, the time was right. It’s a lockdown cliché, I know, but Mr Love and I have bought a pup.

Collecting her from a garden full of gnomes in Norwich, it was love at first sight. I held her fluffy, waggy, snuffly body in my arms all the way back to the Cotswolds. Pure elation. I didn’t even mind when she was sick on me in the car. Or kept me up all night with mournful howls. It’s now a week in and we’ve got a good routine going: Betty’s curled round my feet as I type this, tail wagging, dreaming of bunnies.

And despite all the global uncertainty, she makes me fully live in the moment.

When Betty wakes in five minutes, pandemic or not, she’ll need a pee.

And weirdly – that feels comforting.

THE HORROR. ‘Alice, would you like to introduce yourself?’ It was a work

LU XU RY & N ECESSIT Y

ETERNAL SUMMER Endless great dresses. temperleylondon.com

FOREST LOVE Be in the green.

(Laurence King, £17.99)

SPEEDY FACIAL A different kind of mask. 111skin.co.uk FIND YOUR VOICE Coaching with Milly Ellis. be-heard.co.uk

SUPER SKIN Mad about Profhilo. waterhouseyoung.com

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INTERVIEW

THE RURBANIST

Ben Ainslie on lockdown lessons, the America’s Cup and credit card roulette

a pretty good spot for a drink. Failing that, Loulou’s in Hertford Street.

Best thing a cabbie has ever said to you? ‘You look like that sailor bloke,

Ainsley Harriott?’

What item in your wardrobe do you wear the most? Belstaff’s AC

Trialmaster jacket. It’s pretty cool to have such an iconic British brand designing your team kit.

What is the last book you read and what did you think of it? The Bonfire

of the Vanities. I love New York and it’s still as hectic as it was in the ’80s.

What has been the most valuable piece of advice you have ever received? Work with

people who are smarter than you, and you might achieve something special.

What’s your favourite game? Credit card roulette in a restaurant always creates some excitement. If it’s a big crowd then the stakes can get quite high!

What are Saturday afternoons made for?

Walking the dogs and watching a movie in front of the fire.

What’s your signature dish and who would you most like to cook it for? Beef Wellington

for Gordon Ramsay – it would be fun listening to him ranting at the pastry chef (me).

Where do you go to lose yourself? To sea.

It’s one of the few places where nobody can control what you’re doing.

Ben Ainslie is an ambassador for Belstaff.

The America’s Cup collection launches 15 October 2020 n

That you have to take each day as it comes.

It has been impossible to predict what is going to happen next, so learning to take a step back and taking everything day by day has been a great lesson.

How have you been keeping busy? The America’s Cup never sleeps and neither we, nor our competitors, have missed a beat.

It’s imperative to keep pushing and even throughout lockdown our design team in particular stepped it up a gear to keep our second and eventual race boat for the America’s Cup on track.

What are you looking forward to this autumn? My team is very much looking forward to arriving in Auckland, launching our race boat for the America’s Cup, Britannia II, and setting sail in the Waitemata Harbour.

What’s one of your daily rituals? I FaceTime my wife and three-year-old daughter, Bellatrix, for their breakfast each morning.

Favourite secret place in London for a good night out?

A friend of mine has a garage he’s done up in Chelsea that’s

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES

What did you learn during lockdown?

FROM ABOVE: Ben Ainslie; Belstaff X INEOS Team UK roll neck, £295; Ben would like to hear Gordon Ramsay ranting in his kitchen while cook beef Wellington (below); living on the Isle of Wight, it’s easy to lose yourself at sea

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EDIT ED BY M A R I E L L A TA N DY

STYLE WELLBEING JEWELLERY PA RT I E S

UP FRONT

JUST LIKE MAGIC

PHOTO: © MIKAEL JANSSON

Chanel’s Autumn/Winter ‘20 Haute Couture collection is a lesson in shimmering opulence, with all of Chanel’s embroidery partners contributing to the precious tweeds embellished with sequins, strass, stones and beads.

For the collection, Chanel’s Creative Director Virginie Viard took inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld’s extravagant legacy to create something magical using traditional Chanel fabrics with unexpected twists. chanel.com

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UP FRONT

The

EDIT The new season countdown begins. By Mariella Tandy

HOUSE PROUD

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Meet the House Dress – something that’s comfortable to lounge all day in, but smart enough for a Zoom call. Loretta Caponi’s new collection for Net-a-Porter achieves the above and more: the dresses can also be worn as nightwear. Gladioli dress, £340. netaporter.com

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3

GRAB THIS

Agneel is the latest bag brand on the block. Created by Berlin-based Yesim Karaman, its bags combine traditional craftsmanship with timeless aesthetics – a true alternative to fast fashion.

Mia Mini Bag, £342. agneel.com

NEXT STEPS

A new season means new boots. These Rita boots from Furla partner just as well with jeans as they do floaty dresses. Plus, they’re made in Italy and built to withstand most things and walks life throws at you. £295. furla.com

4

COLD FRONT

The Seated Queen offers a modern take on classic cold cream. This is Vegan Societyaccredited and created using Cosmosapproved organic ingredients that are minimally processed and sustainably sourced. £39. theseatedqueen.com

THE WILD SIDE For the ultimate weekend with the children, head to Hog Deer Creek, part of the Port Lympne Reserve safari park and animal sanctuary in Kent. There’s several shepherd’s huts to choose from, each with a double bed and two bunks. Every hut comes with its own golf buggy allowing you to explore the reserve, go on a safari and see the incredible wildlife. From £459 a night. aspinallfoundation.org

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THREE OF THE BEST

SKIN SAVIOURS

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JUST LUSCIOUS

RMS’s new tinted lip balms have a hint of colour and deliver hydration for 12 hours. With all-natural formulas they’re a must for any autumn outing. £23. spacenk.com

SUNDAY RILEY Hero ingredient Blue Tansy has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, which works wonders overnight in this beautiful coldpressed avocado, chia and grape seed oil. £45. net-a-porter.com

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A PRETTY PAIR

ILODY This Luxmi serum is packed with radiance-enhancing actives that improve skin tone, skin texture and reduce dullness for a more natural, healthier glow. £72. ilodyskincare.com

SHISEIDO Tackle fine lines and wrinkles with this overnight cream from the Benefiance range. The KombuBounce complex will help keep skin moisturised for 24 hours. £83. shiseido.com

Elizabeth Gage’s handmade creations are pure works of art. These 18-karat yellow gold earrings feature oval cabochon aquamarines set in a gold beaded surround.

Alternating blocks of light-blue and mediumblue enamel add extra vibrancy. £12,600. elizabeth-gage.com

TIME BOMB

LIVING FOR THE WEEKEND Lucinda Chambers and Weekend Max Mara have collaborated to create Re-Find, a capsule of modern staples with Chambers’ signature quirks and a pinch of British spirit. Hat, £125. maxmara.com

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This new 18-karat gold addition to the Bell & Ross BR 05 watch range is a super sleek choice. Rose gold numerals and illuminated hands will ensure it looks just as good during the day or night. £18,000 on a rubber strap. bellross.com

SPRAY THIS

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CHAIN REACTION

Already the most wanted accessory of the season, Bottega Veneta’s Chain Cassette bag is available in this ‘Camping’ colour exclusively in its London boutiques. £2,800. bottegaveneta.com

This spray is a mix of 24 essential oils, including peppermint, tea tree and rosemary, which work together to calm the senses.

At 60 per cent alcohol, it also kills 99 per cent of bacteria. £45. anatome.co

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TECHNICOLOUR DREAM WORLD Tiffany & Co’s coloured gemstones tell a tale of adventure and innovation

B

efore Tiffany, coloured gemstones were rarely used by fine jewellers. That all changed in 1876 when founder of Tiffany, Charles Lewis Tiffany, met a young gemologist, Dr George Frederick Kunz. The occasion was the sale of an exceptional tourmaline that Dr Kunz had discovered in Maine – and the meeting was the start of a story like no other.

ADVENTURE AWAITS Soon, Dr Kunz was trekking the world, searching for new treasures he could bring back to the Tiffany headquarters in New York City. It was an era of exploration, adventure and discovery, and in the years Dr Kunz spent circling the globe he unearthed a collection of new stones so astounding that they changed the jewellery world forever.

There was yellow beryl from Ceylon (Sri Lanka) the colour of sunshine, rainforest-green demantoid garnets from Russia’s Ural Mountains and from the rich heart of Brazil, aquamarines so blue it was like staring into the very depths of the ocean. Dr Kunz also crossed and recrossed America, finding lustrous Montana sapphires in 1889, vibrant Maine tourmalines and precious garnets and topazes from Utah. In 1902, a bewitching lilac-pink stone was found in California. A fellow gemologist named it kunzite, for the man who made such beautiful gems his life’s work.

Financier John Pierpont Morgan, a passionate gem collector, charged Dr Kunz with assembling important collections of gems, which he eventually donated to the American Museum of Natural History. Among these is the incomparable morganite, which was discovered in Madagascar.

It was introduced by Tiffany in 1920, and its unique pink hue has captivated people ever since.

TAKING THE WORLD BY STORM With these ravishing gems, skilled Tiffany jewellers set out to create lavish, colour-saturated pieces that seduced jewellery lovers around the wold. The creations of these gifted designers were

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C&TH PARTNERSHIP

exhibited in the great World Fairs in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. G Paulding Farnham, Tiffany’s chief jewellery designer from 1891 to 1908, used Dr Kunz’s Montana sapphires to create a nine-inch iris brooch that went on to win the grand prize at the 1900 Paris fair.

A LASTING PASSION Although the following century brought unprecedented change, Tiffany’s passion for discovering new coloured gems never wavered. In 1967 a Masai tribesman stumbled upon a transparent blue gemstone in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. The find was momentous. Tiffany named the stone tanzanite, and introduced it to the world in 1968.

Ever since, this exceedingly rare blue gemstone remains the epitome of glamour.

Then, in 1970, a new generation of gemologists discovered a glistening green gemstone at Tsavo National Park in Kenya. Tiffany identified it as a very rare type of garnet and the then president, Henry B. Platt, named it tsavorite. To this day, it’s renowned for its rich, invigorating hue.

A VERY MODERN HERITAGE The coloured gemstones that Tiffany introduced to the world tell a tale of exploration and audacity, passion and innovation. From brilliant Montana sapphires to captivating tanzanites, these gems are irrevocably bound to Tiffany’s heritage, and brighten its jewellery cases with their fascinating colours to this day. But the jeweller is not one to stand still: from October 2020 Tiffany is making the move to disclose the origin of its registered diamonds and their full craftsmanship journey, promoting responsible, conflict-free sourcing, from suppliers that work in environmentally and socially responsible ways. This means that, in the years leading up to its 200th anniversary, Tiffany is once again forging a new path into a better, Book your private brighter world.

DISCOVER TIFFANY & CO appointment to discover Tiffany & Co’s extraordinary designs: Tiffany & Co 25 Old Bond Street W1S 4QB obsmgtteam@tiffany.com To see the full collection, visit tiffany.co.uk

Pieces from the Tiffany high jewellery collection featuring its legacy gemstones: morganite, kunzite, tsavorite and tanzanite. £POA

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UP FRONT S T Y L E

OUT OF TOWN

What to pack for your next country escape. By Mariella Tandy HICKS & BROWN Fedora, £89

Purdey’s new collection honors the traditions built around the rituals of a British shooting weekend, while also featuring pieces created specifically for the country lifestyle. These tweeds are inspired by the feathers of the English partridge. purdey.com

DUBARRY Friel utility jacket, £299

BARBOUR BY ALEXACHUNG Martha Quilted coat, £249

CELTIC & CO Fishermans rib jumper, £185

BEGG X CO Art camo sweater, £605

HOLLAND & HOLLAND Hugo Guinness Little Birds T-shirt, £107

WESTLEY RICHARDS Perfecta bag, £495

LE CHAMEAU Iris boots, £100

TOM LANE Belvoir socks, £49

HOUSE OF BRUAR Bagitali animal belt, £29.95

SEE STOCKISTS FOR MORE DETAILS

REALLY WILD Dress, £395

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THE SCOOP

The earth’s the thing, plus beautiful skin. By Charlotte Cole Laser your way to lovely skin with Lyma

ZOOM-READY SKIN

Brand new to the market and an absolute game-changer when it comes to a sustainable, simple and pain-free way to improve your skin and slow – and even reverse – the tell-tale signs of ageing, Lyma has just launched the Lyma Laser. For those who know their supplements, Lyma has already achieved cult status (our editorat-large Alice B-B swears by them for completely upping her wellness game), but this natty little handheld device (not cheap, at £2,000) brings medical grade healing to your home.

And, indeed, its journey began in a lab in Leipzig, where researchers were developing the laser to heal injuries such as degenerated cartilage, torn tendons and respiratory inflammation. They soon noticed the by-product was the incredible healing of the skin too, with dramatic reductions in wrinkles, acne, rosacea and other afflictions. And that is how it has ended up in our hands. We’ve been road testing it prior to launch with really remarkable results – first you need to apply the activating serum, which acts as a conduit for the laser and is more hydrating than hyaluronic acid, then move the laser in circular motions over the face and décolletage for around 15 minutes twice a day (preferably while watching Normal People). Follow with a spritz of Lyma mist to flood the skin with oxygen and over the days and weeks, you really will see noticeable results: firmer, smoother, more plumped-up skin that feels alive. Top insider tip: use a couple of organic oil drops such as those by Vintner’s Daughter before you apply the laser, and the skin’s softness is vastly accelerated. You’re welcome. lyma.life

The Restory and Hurr Collective (below) are part of Selfridges’ Project Earth initiative

ONE GIANT STEP FOR SUSTAINABILITY

With the announcement of Selfridges’ Project Earth initiative last month, a much-needed alignment between consumerism and sustainability reaches another landmark. Companies and brands that we have previously written about here at C&TH are now going mainstream at the retail behemoth. These include The Restory, which brings your favourite trusty leather and suede shoes and bags back to life so they look as good as new, and fashion rental favourite Hurr Collective, which allows you to hire, rather than buy, a superb curation of clothes for special occasions. This is retail done right. selfridges.com

HEAVEN IN A BOTTLE

During lockdown, bathing became even more of a ritual than before (call it evening entertainment) and I developed an obsession with Olverum. As soon as a few drops of this divine-smelling bath oil came wafting into my nostrils, I couldn’t fail to relax. It’s the only oil I’ve known whose amazing smell lingers long after your bath has finished.

The recipe’s a secret and it’s a British brand that’s achieved cult status among those in the know. £36.50 for 125ml. olverum.com

Bathtime at its best with Olverum

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UP FRONT

HIT REFRESH

BY WOMEN, FOR WOMEN

THE NEW NAMES FOR YOUR JEWELLERY BOX

Jeweller Tatiana Verstraeten is donating 100 per cent of the profits of every sale of her signature Pearl Rain fringe earrings to UN Women to help its charitable initiatives around the world. Most recently, UN Women has been supporting women suffering from increased domestic violence and education inequality due to the Covid pandemic. The earrings, as seen on the likes of Cate Blanchett and Eva Longoria, were inspired by the delicate embroidery work undertaken in the Maison Lesage atelier in Paris, and are realised in 18-karat white gold, diamonds and pearls.

Approx. £20,650 plus tax. tatianaverstraeten.com

Harwell Godfrey Lauren Harwell Godfrey’s beaded necklaces, decorated with coloured gems, are fast achieving must-have status among the fashion set. Each chain is unique and features a solid 18-karat gold hexagon from which you can hang a charm, like this pyramid medallion. Approx £4,293. harwellgodfrey.com

J E W E L L E R Y

THE MAGPIE

Mariella Tandy on new jewellers to watch and earrings that give back CARTIER HAUTE JOAILLERIE

Cartier’s new haute joaillerie collection taps into the limitless inspirational reserve of Mother Nature. This opulent Panthère Tropicale wristwatch is made of yellow gold with a vibrant coral inlay. It’s set with onyx and diamond as a nod to the panther’s famous spots.

POA. cartier.co.uk

Bea Bongiasca The jeweller’s juxtaposition of enamel with precious materials and quirky shapes has won her legions of fans who love her bold approach.

Small Curl Vine earrings, £808. beabongiasca.com

Marie Lichtenberg Marie’s talisman necklaces are all feather-light thanks to carefully worked hollow gold.

Her nine-karat gold lockets are hand-crafted in India with opal, garnet, moonstone, and emerald details, before being strung on silk thread blessed in a temple in Jaipur. Necklace, approx. £2,964. bymarie.com

IMAGES: © MATHIEU CEDAR

ADLER

Adler’s vibrant Papagayo collection receives its name from an imaginary paradisiacal tropical jungle parrot. These stunning 18-karat white gold earrings are set with 16 oval-cut diamonds and 12 emeralds, and are designed to evoke its colourful wings. POA. adler.ch 32 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | September/October 2020

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PROMOTION

ABOVE: Man Line Byzantine bracelet (small), £135 BELOW: Flat bracelet, £210

THE NEW BEAUTY

Brooklyn longuette necklace, £390

For Autumn/Winter 20/21 Giovanni Raspini rediscovers the true meaning of beauty

Tuscan designer Giovanni Raspini

J

eweller Giovanni Raspini has seen a lot of beauty in his long career as a master craftsman and designer.

For AW 20/21 he decided to revisit the concept of beauty, redefining it with his own unique sense of style and craftsmanship. The result is five irresistible new lines, all made by hand in the Giovanni Raspini atelier in Tuscany.

Giovanni found his initial inspiration for the new collections in nature. Petra is a range inspired by the natural forms of the mineral world. Each piece has a faceted texture, as if weathered by the shifting of the earth beneath our feet or the atmosphere around us. The line comprises a necklace, two bangles with spring clasps, two earrings and two rings, also available as gold-plated.

Ad Astra is taken from the hypnotic beauty of the crescent moon, which humans have wondered at for millennia. It’s composed of burnished silver spheres and freshwater pearls, imagined as a pendant, a bracelet, a necklace, three earrings and a ring, all of which capture the moon’s brilliant pearlescent glow.

With Flat, Giovanni found

The Ad Astra collection celebrates the hypnotic power of the crescent moon

inspiration in minimalism and simplicity, as well as in the spiral shapes that occur organically in plants and natural systems.

The line features a handhammered necklace, five bracelets, three earrings and two rings.

For Brooklyn Giovanni created delicate chains of interconnecting rings of varying shapes and sizes, giving a feel of dynamism, lightness and elegance to the range of necklaces and bracelets.

Finally, Man Line is a collection devoted to the masculine universe, created using the sculptural power of silver casting. There are also nods to classic themes like animalier textures and Byzantine links among the range of seven bracelets and five rings.

ABOVE: Petra earrings (gold-plated), £265 BELOW: Petra necklace, £690

Giovanni Raspini specialises in jewellery, sculptures and homeware, with boutiques in London, Monaco, Moscow, Rome, Milan, Venice, Florence, Verona and Naples.

5 South Molton Street, Mayfair, W1.

020 7629 1401; giovanniraspini.com

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LEATHER FOOTWEAR | ACCESSORIES | CLOTHING FAIRFAXANDFAVOR.COM

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UP FRONT The seven 18-kt gold jewelled charms that tell the story of Annoushka’s life

J E W E L L E R Y

WORKS LIKE A CHARM Jewellery designer Annoushka Ducas is creating the ultimate in bespoke jewellery, discovers Vivienne Becker

W

hen Annoushka Ducas MBE began thinking about how best to celebrate the tenth anniversary of her boutique jewellery brand, Annoushka, she knew instantly it would have to be about charms. As she explains: ‘Charms have been a major part of my career. They’re how John [Ayton, her husband] and I started Links of London – we made charms from day one, and they hold solid, precious memories for me.’

She’s also fascinated by miniaturisation, having a near-obsession with all things minuscule, and adores the way in which charms – so small and perfectly formed with their minute, captivating detail – can encapsulate our most powerful memories, dreams and associations.

As a child, she collected tiny objects of all kinds – painted porcelain plates, minute figurines and pea-sized animals, complete

Annoushka’s home in Sussex, where she’s lived for 25 years, has been a huge inspiration

with details of tails or whiskers. ‘My mother, who was Russian, travelled a lot. She used to bring me back a charm from wherever she went in the world,’ recalls Annoushka.

This memory helped germinate the seed of a new idea, as she meditated on a suitable anniversary jewel to celebrate ten years of the Annoushka brand and 30 years as a jewellery designer. Although she quickly hit on the genius of telling a life story through charms, it took 18 months to develop the project.

With her finger firmly on the style pulse, Annoushka knew how important personalisation had become, not only in jewellery, but in every aspect of lifestyle, fashion and design – even discovering our cultural roots through DNA testing. With this in mind, she developed the concept of My Life in Seven Charms, which she describes as ‘an 18-karat gold pictorial September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 35

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UP FRONT

biography’. As with her own personalised charm bracelet, she now creates a bespoke set of seven charms for each individual client, based on their life stories and memories. Seven is not only a magic number but also, she feels, the optimum quantity for a charm bracelet. However, she adds that the charms on a gold bracelet are easily unclipped and can equally be worn on a neck chain, or singly on a pendant. ‘I love the idea of unlocking a life, reminiscing about really significant moments and then distilling them into a tiny treasured biography that is wearable but also to be cherished by generations to come.’

Annoushka talks through her own selection of seven meaningful charms: a yellow sapphire-smothered submarine, in homage to the Beatles song she danced along to with her adored mother; a ruby-set cable car that tells of her passion for skiing and time spent in Mégève in the French alps; a pavé diamond dog’s paw, a token of her lifelong love of pooches; a globe that spins within its diamond frame, symbolising not only the many inspirational trips she took with her mother but also her life with John, whom she first met in Hong Kong, a place of continuing creative inspiration; a pea pod paved in tsavorites, representing her love of nature and holding four pearls for

each of her four children; a fish skeleton, fully articulated and flexible, a reminder of how she first started designing jewellery after her mother (who had a business supplying fish to top London restaurants), asked Annoushka to come up with a gift idea for one of the chefs, resulting in a pair of fish cufflinks; and finally the quirky ‘sex on legs’ charm, in which dangly, wobbling legs are topped with the Pop Art-styled word, ‘Sex’, in diamonds. Annoushka explains that she wanted to find a charm to represent John, her soulmate, and was thinking of a rock, to express his constant love and support, whereas John jokingly (or maybe not!) observed that he’d much rather be depicted as ‘sex on legs’.

It’s this element of wit and whimsy, together with intensely personal stories, known only to the wearer, that so entrances Annoushka and fires her imagination. She loves to capture that playfulness and enhance the memories through minute, exquisitely-wrought, figurative details, particularly the flexible working parts that she finds so appealing. ‘I’ve always been fanatical about detail,’ she elaborates on her fascination. ‘I’m obsessed with moving parts, like the spinning propellers on my yellow submarine, which also

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ABOVE & LEFT: Some of the inspirations behind Annoushka’s seven charms; the jeweller will create personalised 18-kt gold-based designs for her clients based on their own life stories

has a diamond periscope. I love all that.’

Above all, it’s the deep and uniquely personal emotions embodied in each tiny charm that make this project so rewarding for Annoushka and so relevant for our times. She explains that many of the feelings wrapped up in her own charm bracelet come from her relationship with her mother. ‘I was an only child, my mother was my best friend, my mentor. She was larger than life, always smoking a big fat cigar. I travelled with her from a very young age, and these journeys and my upbringing have had a huge influence on my designs.’

The intensely personal nature of this bespoke customer experience means it’s Annoushka herself who meets clients, listens to their stories, decides on the charms, plans the intricate details and oversees the entire commission. ‘It’s an honour to do it,’ she says. ‘I love hearing the stories and I also want the experience to be as enjoyable and stress-free as possible. I don’t want the client to agonise over what the charms should be.’

Every set comes with a personalised scrap book relating the stories behind each charm and illustrating them with photographs, mementos, and carefully painted gouaches. Annoushka believes narrative is very important in jewellery, especially at a time when

pieces are increasingly prized, both for their longevity and as a way of creating and preserving individual memories.

The highly personal process of working on commissions for top clients and translating their life stories into sculptural, meticulously-crafted miniatures, gave Annoushka the idea of launching a podcast involving a series of seven interviews with each client, telling his or her life story through each piece – ‘much like Desert Island Discs,’ she notes. As a thank you to each interviewee, she promises to create the last of the charms on their list as a personal gift. The podcast launches in October and guests include former British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, Princess Margaret’s former lady in waiting, Lady Glenconner, and our own design maven, Lucia van der Post.

Annoushka intends her Life in Seven Charms to be the ultimate bespoke jewellery experience and hopes they’ll be treasured as family heirlooms, passed down through generations. ‘What else is there,’ she asks, ‘that could tell your life story, through emotive, anecdotal details, that can be worn, enjoyed and handed down in this way, like precious amulets and talismans?’ It is, after all, the original role, magic and appeal of the charm. n annoushka.com September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 37

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UP FRONT

Q & A

MY STYLE

On-the-go style with Patricia Gucci Everyday uniform? I’m always on the move

and I walk fast, so trainers are ideal for me. I love what designers are doing in that department. I recently bought a navy pair of Dior’s D-Connect neoprene sneakers. I wear them with Current Elliot boyfriend jeans and a cashmere sweater, and I’m ready to go.

Finishing touches? Fracas by Robert Piguet, which has been my perfume for over 30 years. Also my rings and gold necklaces with personal charms, and my vintage gold Bulgari watch.

Whose style do you really admire?

French women have always had something innately elegant about them, their manner and wardrobe choices feel so effortless.

Power dressing? My black high-heeled boots by Casadei, a crisp white tailored shirt, and a double-breasted navy-blue blazer by Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.

Holiday must-haves? In my case I will always bring an assortment of sunglasses (at the moment I’m wearing a

dark green Mulberry pair), a wide-brimmed hat, and SPF 50 lotion.

Lounge lizard? My grey silk pyjamas by La Perla and a pair of cosy cashmere socks.

Country walk? A Harris tweed jacket by Katherine Hooker, corduroys, Hunter wellington boots and my Morkie puppy Lola in her pet bag slung over my shoulder.

Under the radar labels? I recently launched a hand-crafted leather carry-on with a unique translucent handle with my brand Aviteur. It’s made-in-Italy at its best.

Suitcase essentials? In my Aviteur carry-on I’ll have a Simplehuman magnifying mirror, and Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream – one of the best moisturisers on the market. I also always take a leather jacket and a cashmere scarf.

On-the-go style cheats?

I pack my clothes with tissue paper and dry-cleaning bags to avoid wrinkling. aviteur.com n

1 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Cady blazer, £710 2 Robert Piguet Fracas perfume, £95 3 Dior D-Connect neoprene sneakers, £770 4 Current Elliott The Original Cigarette jeans, £206 5 Hunter Original tall boots, £95 6 La Perla silk pyjamas, £264 7 Emma Willis Cotton-poplin shirt, £310 8 Mulberry Kate cat’s eye sunglasses, £190 9 Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream, £205 10 Aviteur carry-on suitcase, £3,995

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C E L E B R A T IN G 2 5 Y E A R S A S T H E H O M E O F C O U N T R Y C L O T H IN G

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LIFE’S LIT TLE LU XURIES

L U X U R Y

LUCIA LOVES

Lucia van der Post on Sunspel’s rich history making beautiful basics

S

unspel is an all-British brand that specialises in understated, timeless, beautifully designed basics that don’t make headlines but often turn out to be the backbone of many an elegant wardrobe.

It’s an established company that began making fine quality underwear in Nottingham in 1860, started using Sea Island cotton (the world’s rarest cotton, grown and handpicked in the Caribbean) in 1885 and created some of the world’s first T-shirts in 1912. The company then developed its own Q14 cellular fabric in 1914, a light, breathable cotton perfect for light base layers.

During both wars it produced tough, durable garments but in 1947 John Hill, the great-grandson of the founder, discovered the boxer short in America and brought it back to Britain, refining it and improving it for British tastes. By 1960 Sunspel was well-established as the luxury underwear company in the UK and was sold in the grandest of stores on both sides of the pond – Harrods, Barneys and their ilk.

For heritage companies such as Sunspel the challenge, of course, is how to keep the fine old traditions and the essential DNA, yet expand and modernise with the (very) changing FROM TOP: Sweatshirt, £110; times. Sunspel has done lambswool jumper, this by keeping true to £225; shirt, £120; its founding vision of T-shirt, £70 providing the finest

undergarments, also gradually expanding its range – and without venturing into the world of high fashion. The Riviera Polo shirt that Daniel Craig wore in Casino Royale is a perfect example of this, and is a design that quickly became one of Sunspel’s bestsellers.

For many years Sunspel was primarily a men’s undergarment brand but in 2011 it came out with its very first range for women.

Today, the collection includes exquisitely simple but fine cotton knickers, camis, slips and bras all in neutral colours, as well as some equally understated gymwear such as sweatshirts and track suits.

The company has also recently embarked on a series of collaborations, designed to refresh and invigorate the brand, such as with the artist John Booth and London-based accessories company Troubadour.

With its emphasis on understated quality, heritage and excellence, it’s no surprise that, 160 years later, Sunspel remains at the top of its game. All in all, a brand to watch and one to explore if you haven’t yet discovered it. sunspel.com n

HOME GROWN The pandemic has concentrated people’s minds on the things that really matter, and the incentive to look for products that are produced sustainably is here to stay. Launched in 2017, Willowberry uses mostly British ingredients, tracking down a UK source for chia seed oil to reduce the carbon footprint of importing it, and using coriander seed oil instead of rosewood because of sustainability issues. Day cream, £27.99. willowberry.co.uk GO BIG Just launched on Neta-Porter is a terrific collection of safariinspired clothing designed to support Space for Giants, the charity that aims to protect elephants and their habitat. I like best the classic belted khaki safari dress designed by Giuliva Heritage for £1,215. There’s also jewellery, created in collaboration with Gemfields, which uses ethically sourced gemstones. netaporter.com

NEW ROMANTIC Alice Temperley’s boho, romantic style with its floaty dresses and charming prints has long had its followers. Now she has come up with a new homeware range to match. The collection carries the DNA of the brand with its leopard-print cushions, hand-embroidered throws and flowerstrewn prints. Lotus print cushion, £145. temperleylondon.com

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28/08/2020 14:51

NATURAL ICONS – PART TWO For Autumn/Winter 20, John Smedley champions craft, curiosity and celebration

W

hen you pull on a John Smedley wool jumper, or wrap yourself in one of its cashmere cardigans, you feel an immediate, irrevocable sense of time, place and heritage. Based in Lea Mills, Matlock, Derbyshire, since 1784, the knitwear brand is synonymous with the very best of British craftsmanship.

For Autumn/Winter 20, John Smedley is building on its 235-year history to create something altogether new. The Natural Icons – Part Two collection explores the crossover between craftsmanship and nature, as well as the symbolism associated with sustainability and renewal.

Channelling ideas of cocooning, rebirth and the newness that comes with the cycle of the seasons, Natural Icons – Part Two looks ahead with curiosity and optimism to a brighter future.

Above all, the collection builds on over two centuries’ worth of skill, passion and knowledge, grounded in John Smedley’s quintessentially British identity, learning from the past to create the icons of the future.

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PROMOTION

CRAFT With over 235 years of history to its name, John Smedley is the world’s oldest knitwear manufacturer. For Autumn/Winter 20, it has decided to explore the intersection of craft and nature, using intricate patterns and chunky gauge textures to create beautiful layers of the softest fibres.

Much of the Natural Icons – Part Two collection is knitted from homegrown fibres, such as Bluefaced Leicester sheep’s wool and Alpaca wool, sourced in Britain. Other fibres, like the Extra Fine Merino Wool, is sourced in New Zealand from farmers than use an ethical, sustainable approach.

CELEBRATION

CURIOSITY Despite its long history, John Smedley’s success lies partly in its innate curiosity and willingness to innovate. For Natural Icons – Part Two, this can be seen in the collection’s techniques and structures, from the finest gauge knits to chunky designs that cocoon the wearer against the worst of the new season chill, as well as in the inspiration the brand drew from the beautiful natural landscapes of the British Isles.

Natural Icons – Part Two is a celebration of everything John Smedley stands for: history, craft and sustainability, as well as the country that the brand has called home for over two hundred years. Discover the unique hues of the British countryside as it turns to autumn in the collection’s palette, where shades range from the brightest gold tones to deep purples and pure whites. In turn, the British Alpaca wool and Bluefaced Leicester sheep’s wool are left undyed, in celebration of their unique natural beauty.

Bringing together craft, curiosity and celebration, John Smedley has created the natural icons of the future.

To see the full collection, visit johnsmedley.com

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UP FRONT

MIND & M AT T E R

PLUMP Valmont V-Neck cream Bin the polo neck.

This decadently rich, peptidepacked cream lifts and fills in wrinkles on the neck and décolleté. £248. lamaison valmont.com

BODY LANGUAGE

Olivia Falcon contemplates longevity after lockdown

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did my fair share of naval gazing in lockdown and although the view wasn’t pretty – my belly button retreated into a new layer of paunch faster than a Florida sinkhole – there were some silver linings. On day 19, I got the results of my Real Age Test from the Omniya clinic, which is a blood test that measures your telomeres. These, simply explained, are the end caps of your chromosomes that carry genetic material responsible for cell division. When telomeres shorten, cells no longer replicate properly and die – ageing in motion. Gulp. By measuring your telomeres you can get a pretty accurate gauge on your true biological age. Forget wrinkles and jaws; this is the important stuff that’s happening inside.

To rewind, my quest to uncover my true age started pre-Covid craziness when I found myself with a stonking cold, stocking up on Altrient C Liposomal Vitamin C at the forward-thinking Omniya clinic in Knightsbridge.

Part high-tech pharmacy, part beehive of consulting rooms packed with a proactive team of multi-disciplinary doctors, it’s a place of wonder for the worried well.

Browsing through the menu of treatments the Real Age Test stood out. The first of its kind in the UK, it is administered by Dr Sohére Roked, a GP who is one of only a handful of doctors here in Britain who has studied age

management medicine in the US. Dr Roked told me diet and exercise have a huge impact on the length of telomeres.

Bankers and shift workers usually score older beyond their years as good quality sleep is critical and stress has the same withering effects as smoking, which does not bode well for me as I am a walking pressure cooker.

I let off a whoop of steam, though, when the results came back saying I’m apparently biologically 18 months younger than my birth age. Hurrah. Scores can be further improved with lifestyle changes and supplements that can range from the TA65 supplement, which activates an enzyme called telomerase that helps to lengthen telomeres, and contains vitamin D and omega 3 fatty acids that do a similar job.

Since we’ve all been thinking more about life’s bigger picture of late I am launching forth into this brave new world with a spring in my step and dining out on the fact that, actually, I’m in my early forties again. Hurrah.

Real Age Test, from £299. omniya.co.uk n

BEAM LVB Lover Tiger Eye sunglasses These pink-tinted glasses stimulate the brain through the optical nerve to make the wearer feel happier. £180. victorious beings.com STRIDE Fogal Diane tights Keep in step with the fashion pack this season, with pinstripes on your pins. £24. luxury-legs.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

R E V I E W

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Stronger together.

Discover Dr Sebagh’s glow-getting prescription for fresh and radiant-looking skin.

The powerful solution to dull and tired-looking skin is at your fingertips. This deeply rejuvenating and radiance-restoring ritual, created by Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, internationally sought after cosmetic doctor, will expertly brighten, smooth, tighten and plump your skin using a potent combination of four ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ products in his award-winning skin care range.

2. In the palm of your hand, mix your own, plumping and nourishing blend of the cult Serum Repair, a hyaluronic acid-based hero which hydrates, firms and repairs, and soothing Rose de Vie Serum, infused with antioxidant rosehip oil to calm, protect and leave skin gleaming.

1. Begin by preparing your skin with Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask, to boost cell turnover and instantly brighten (a Sensitive formula is also available). For an extra glow boost, mix with a little of the highly concentrated Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream. This antioxidant-rich, stabilised formula also helps to repair and protect against environmental aggressors.

3. Add a dose of Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream to your serum blend (if not added to your mask) for a super-charged brightening treatment with beautifully glowing results.

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Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

28/08/2020 14:55

UP FRONT

Q & A

THE CLOSE UP

Nathalie Eleni meets Harrods’ skin expert Dr Marwa Ali What’s in the mirror? I see an independent,

determined and hardworking woman who has come a long way to achieve her dreams.

Favourite feature? My skin. Over the last few years I have been on a journey to discover the best medical treatments and skincare to protect the skin and prevent it from ageing.

As the International Obagi Skinclusion Ambassador I am a huge advocate of using medical grade skincare for optimal results.

Treatment you swear by? The Gala Glow medical facial, which is exclusive to The Wellness Clinic in Harrods. It uses the latest HIFU technology (Ultracel Q+) to deliver the fastest, pain-free ultrasound in the world to lift, tighten and brighten your skin.

When do you feel at your best? When I spend quality time with my nearest and dearest, particularly my son Ahmed.

Top beauty tip? Vitamin C is the perfect product to stimulate collagen production, protect your skin from the sun, even out your skin-tone and give your skin a glow.

I am in love with the Obagi Professional-C 20% serum.

Signature look? Winged eyeliner.

I love wearing eyeliner as it makes me feel glamorous and powerful no matter where I go or what I’m wearing.

Desert island must-haves? SPF. I love Shiseido Expert Sun Aging Protection Lotion Plus SPF50+ because it is not greasy and provides the perfect base for my makeup.

What’s changed? Growing up I had a cookie cutter image of what beauty was. However, over time, I have come to realise that our individuality and differences are what make us unique and that is the definition of beauty.

Hero product? Clé de Peau Beauté foundation is light and breathable, yet provides good coverage and flawless looking skin.

Dr Marwa Ali is an aesthetic doctor at The Wellness Clinic. harrods.com n

Make-up:

TEAM nathalieeleni_beauty Photo: rvds

GET THE LOOK

Master Dr Marwa Ali’s flawless base and exaggerated feline flick

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Prep skin with Orveda’s The Healing Sap for a transformational glow. £125. orveda.com

For a ‘no make-up’ glow, apply Valmont Just Time Perfection SPF30 to skin. This multi-tasking universal tinted cream enhances natural radiance and bathes skin with hydration. £164. lamaisonvalmont.com

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Sweep Decorté Styling liquid eyeliner along your lash line and outwards to a flick. Build the desired thickness in fine strokes and apply under lower lashes. £27. Harrods.com

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Apply Beauty Pie Wondergloss Collagen Lip Oil + in Nude Nectar to lips. Members pay £6.36. beautypie.com Add extra definition to brows by adding in baby hair strokes with Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Pen. £23. anastasiabeverlyhills.co.uk

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B E A U T Y

POWDER ROOM Great skin and scent satisfaction from Nathalie Eleni

GLOW UP Achieve glass skin in three easy steps

LET’S GET PERSONAL

If you are a skincare science junkie, BelleCell clinic in St James’s will be right up your street. Its range is formulated to prevent signs of ageing based on your own DNA. After a genetic test in the clinic – although an at-home kit is launching soon – BelleCell creates a bespoke skincare and supplement regime to combat fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation issues while boosting elasticity and skin hydration. It includes a day serum, night serum, body lotion and dietary supplement, which are created from a blend of antioxidants, vitamins and minerals unique to your skin’s needs. Results can be seen in just four weeks with continuous improvements as the products work to minimise cellular damage and improve cellular regeneration. The test and first two months costs £1,490. Each consecutive two-month regime costs £199. bellecell.com

LIFT AND SMOOTH Filorga Ultra-lifting rosy-glow fluid. £67. lookfantastic.com

FEEL-GOOD FRAGRANCES

Mood-boosting fragrances for a luxurious lift

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POTION PARIS Potion Paris’ return, refill, repeat initiative is revolutionising the fragrance world. Choose from seven refillable scents made from sustainable, ethically sourced ingredients, all of which slot inside the brand’s unique black vial. The Starter Set includes the vial and three fragrances refills. £99. potionparis.com

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TOM DAXON MAGNOLIA HEIGHTS A beautiful, fresh unisex fragrance inspired by a magnolia tree in full bloom. It conjures up vivid memories of a verdant English garden. £155. libertylondon.com

HYDRATE AND GLOW Elemis Superfood Glow priming moisturiser. £39. feelunique.com

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PENHALIGON’S BRILLIANTLY BRITISH A medley of salted caramel and frozen lavender to celebrate the brand’s 150th birthday. £144. penhaligons.com FLORIS LONDON VERT FOUGÈRE Crisp grapefruit and bergamot with cedarwood create a masculine woody scent that combines with zesty fresh notes of lavender, neroli and ginger. £120. florislondon.com

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ST PALO GRACE DIFFUSER NECKLACE A clever way to ‘wear’ your scent. This set includes a beautiful aromatherapy diffuser necklace with the brand’s signature Spirit of St Palo essential oil blend of frankincense and palo santo, which they say is sustainably harvested. £86. stpalo.com

RELIEVE AND REVIVE 111Skin Rose Gold radiance booster. £85. 111skin.co.uk

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04/09/2020 13:08

LONDON 020 7610 6626 555 Kings Road, Chelsea, London, SW6 2EB

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NEWCASTLE 0191 281 3443 21 Clayton Road, Jesmond, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE2 4RP

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02/09/2020 18:48

UPFRONT W E L L N E S S

BODY & SOUL

Reset your mindset – here are five positive changes to protect your mental and physical health. By Camilla Hewitt

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FEED YOUR MIND

Gut instinct, gut feeling, gut-wrenching: we’re all aware of the connection between our gut and mind. Having a healthy gut is not only intrinsic to our general wellbeing, it also plays a fundamental role in supporting our cognitive health.

Nourishing our gut can play a crucial part in supporting a healthy and happy mindset.

In Happy Gut, Happy Mind (Piatkus, £25), nutritional therapist Eve Kalinik draws on this science to dish out gut-loving recipes. For vegan diets, the beet kebab couscous bowl with beet borani provides a delicious source of antioxidants and fibre, giving gut microbes something decidedly hearty to chew on. evekalinik.com

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WEAR IT WELL

We are now all used to wearing our comfiest clothing.

But instead of joining the queue for mass-produced joggers, support brands who think beyond seasonal trends and profit margins to social responsibility and sustainability. Pangaia is a global collective of scientists, technologists and designers creating planet-friendly products. The Seaweed Fibre T-shirt, £74, is not only carbon neutral and bio-degradable, it also retains seaweed nutrients in the fabric, which are then absorbed by the skin, cleverly combating free radicals. the 2 pangaia.com

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SPA SOLUTIONS

Post-lockdown, Jacinta Stevens of wellness PR agency Mason Rose suggests there’ll be ‘a renewed focus on health that will see retreats and spa breaks offer practical lifestyle solutions that add to people’s wellness toolkit’. For those not looking to travel quite yet, Bodhimaya has an At Home Retreat that varies from mindfulness and meditation to DNA biomarker testing and personalised nutritional planning. bodhimaya.com

CRYSTALLISE YOUR INTENTIONS

For thousands of years, people have used crystals to attract certain energies and as healing tools to direct and amplify intentions. By working organic crystals into a contemporary jewellery collection, Little Joy Jewellery cleverly places them on significant areas of the body to release tensions and remove any emotional blockages. This pink tourmaline pendant calms and soothes the heart, especially when dealing with anxiety. littlejoyjewellery.com

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MINDFUL MOVEMENT

Instead of getting back to the gym to do really strenuous stuff, consider the importance of slowing down your movement to maintain a healthy mind and body.

High intensity workouts can lead to inflammation, high cortisol levels, water retention and weight gain, particularly for women.

Yalda Alaoui, founder of gut health platform Eat Burn Sleep, is an advocate of fast walking and moderate low-inflammation workouts. Having spent years researching the best routine to combat her Ulcerative Colitis and Auto-Immune Haemolytic Anaemia, Yalda subsequently launched her six-week plan to educate others. eatburnsleep.com

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W E L L N E S S

SPA TREK

Daisy Finer finds time to reset at Grayshott Spa

T

here is a lot we don’t know about how travel will unfurl in the future, but one thing I feel pretty sure of is that Britain is about to have its moment.

I hope many of us are going to want to harness the desire to support those hotels and spas situated on our own doorstep. We need the escapism, rest, connection and emotional recovery that they can provide, and they need us, too.

If you’re looking for a proper health boost after all the latest focus on just that, then Grayshott would be my top suggestion. For starters, you can whack some wellies and tracksuit bottoms in the boot of your car and drive there – it’s impossible to underestimate how liberating this is.

Grayshott is also the first spa in Britain to offer the famous Mayr Detox. The Mayr (rhymes with fire) fasting regime is credited as a means to not only lose weight but also to support your digestive system, which is now generally accepted to be the most important building block of healthy immunity. Every morning while you take Epsom salts with warm water to stimulate the gut – expect a major cleanse that will leave you lighter, brighter and feeling strong. The regime is admittedly tough with small breakfasts and lunches, and a flask of broth for supper that I had every night as room service. Thank goodness my bedroom was as nice as it was, with glorious views of lush green lawns that stretch out into long walks over the downs, and a bed as comfortable as a cloud.

But don’t expect anything new-fangled. Grayshott is old-fashioned and matronly, many of the staff have been here for decades and most guests spend their time shuffling between treatments in dressing-gowns. If you’re on the cure you’ll be offered blood tests, intravenous drips packed with life-giving vitamins, liver packs, some expertly executed massages (Hungarian Tommi has become legendary) and don’t miss cranial osteopathy with Elaine – it’s almost worth coming for this alone. She’ll hold just your head and neck in silence for an hour while releasing muscular stress throughout your whole body. Bliss.

Afternoon lectures include topics such as ‘does stress sabotage your health goals?’ (it does, cortisol the hormone released by stress will do more damage to your waistline than hot chocolate) and I especially enjoyed the talk given by Kate Fismer on building resilience. One of Kate’s main messages is that resilience is not the same as endurance and that existing in survival mode will leave you burnt out, fractured, restless and unhealthy. Kate’s advocates instead that you rest and digest, tend and befriend. I feel like this is an important mantra, one that perhaps we should all adopt for the brave, newer world that we are now stepping into.

BOOK IT The eight-night Mayr Fasting Programme at Grayshott Spa costs from £3,994 per person. grayshottspa.com n

OPEN YOUR HEART A scented candle, plus your own shampoo and conditioner. BRING Wellies for walks on the downs. READ Gut Gastronomy: Revolutionise Your Eating to Create Great Health, by Vicki Edgson (Jacqui Small, £30)– all the recipes are from Grayshott’s chef. MAINTAIN Practise intermittent fasting at home – early suppers around 5pm and late brunch around 10am.

PACK

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UP FRONT DANCES WITH ELEPHANTS

TIME AFTER TIME

Love Brand & Co’s Elephant Dance print is inspired by the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust’s Orphans’ Project ensuring the survival of wild elephants and their habitats. Love Brand donates one per cent of revenue to wildlife conservation. From £60, lovebrand.com

The Lange 1 Time Zone watch is perfect for working across different time zones, allowing you to clock both at a glance. Fifteen years after it launched, the model has been revamped with new functions including daylight savings time indication and ring-shaped day and night indicators. From £44,043. alange-soehne.com

M E N ’ S

DOUBLE VISIONARY Optometrist Edward Lyons and World Champion shooter Edward Solomons teamed up with a vision of creating luxurious, high-performance eyewear with strong sustainability credentials, handmade in England and Italy.

Churchill frames, from £595. edwardseyewear.com

S T Y L E

WELL GROOMED Matt Thomas kicks off the new season in style

WORKERS UNION Mackintosh has teamed with high-end menswear brand The Workers Club, created

by Charlotte and Adam Cameron (an exDunhill and Mr Porter design consultant), to produce a cool capsule of covetable coats and jackets for the new season. From £275. mackintosh.com

WAXING LYRICAL British brand 360 Botanics produces natural vegan skincare and wellness products, with a dedicated, effective men’s range including the Imperial Serum and this nourishing, botanical Beard Oil. £15.50.

360botanics.co.uk

SCENT ERUPTION

STERLING WORK

The Sterling, the latest style from Fairfax & Favor, presents a design fusion of its two bestselling men’s boots: the Trafalgar and the Desert boot. This chunky new pair is crafted from premium mahogany leather. £235. fairfaxandfavor.com

Inspired by the duality of volcanoes, Issey Miyake’s new Fusion d’Issey scent contrasts hot, spicy notes of cardamom and patchouli with refreshing lemon and coconut water. £49. theperfumeshop.com

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The Bournbrook Travel Bag Collection.

Handcrafted alongside our prized best guns and rifles. westleyrichards.com/bournbrook

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Celebrating 30 years of sustainable British style

To celebrate our birthday we’re offering readers

15 %

OFF

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FREE DELIVERY & RETURNS Offer expires 01/11/2020 USE CODE: C T H15

Celtic & Co. design and create timeless, contemporary clothing and footwear only ever using the finest natural fibres – because they are renewable, sustainable and a pleasure to wear. It all started with our iconic sheepskin boots which are still made by hand today in our workshop in Newquay. We now offer a growing collection of knitwear, sheepskin outerwear, leather footwear and luxury homewares.

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Standard free delivery to UK mainland only. To redeem use online or over the phone when placing your order. Offer expires 01/11/2020.

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ART CU LT U R E BOOKS PEOPLE

THE GUIDE A TOUCH OF FROST

PHOTOS: ‘UMIAQ AND NORTH WIND DURING SPRING WHALING’ BY KILIII YUYAN

The Arctic is at the very centre of our climate crisis, its landscapes and inhabitants threatened with unprecedented change. Arctic: Culture and Climate uncovers the region’s rich history and heritage, celebrating the ingenuity and resilience of its indigenous peoples and asking: what happens next? 22 Oct to 21 Feb 2021. britishmuseum.org

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E V E N T S

THE CULTURAL COMEBACK Whether out or in: there’s plenty to be excited about this autumn, says Ellie Smith

CONVERSATION STARTERS The likes of Nigella Lawson, Matt Haig and Jodi Picoult are all taking part in the new programme of ‘in conversation with’ events from production company Fane. The series was launched in a bid to support the theatrical and literary ecosystem during these difficult times, with viewing available worldwide.

Until November 2020. fane.co.uk

Beware Mars with Earth in Ascendance, by Plastique Fantastique (2020)

DOWN STREAM

Somerset House’s Transmissions, which commissions artists, writers and thinkers to share their work via a DIY live TV stream, is back for a second season. Expect to see episodes from writer Kat Anderson, installation artists Plastique Fantastique and Turner Prize winner Lawrence Abu Hamdan. 9 Sept to 30 Oct. somersethouse.org.uk

ONLINE

LOCKED IN

The Northern Ballet’s Powerhouse Rhumba

DREAM WORKS

You can now experience Dulwich Picture Gallery’s British Surrealism exhibition for free online. Launched to coincide with the centenary of the surrealist movement in 1920, the collection celebrates dreams, mischief, desire and the unconscious, with over 70 artworks from 42 artists including Leonora Carrington, Francis Bacon and Henry Moore. Available now. dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk

Onanistic Typewriter by Conroy Maddox (1940)

Dance companies Studio Wayne McGregor, Northern Ballet and Gary Clarke Company are joining forces to explore the theme of isolation through movement, in a new commission from the Lawrence Batley Theatre.

Inspired by life in lockdown, the project involves two contemporary dance solos and a short ballet – all available to watch online.

28 Sept to 18 Oct. thelbt.org

PHOTOS: © MARK SENIOR; © EMMA KAULDHAR; © STANLEY SPENCER & BRIDGEMAN IMAGES; © MARCO BORGGREVE; © JAN URBANSKI; © PLASTIQUE FANTASTIQUE

SING OUT

The Oxford Lieder Festival, a celebration of song featuring the likes of soprano Carolyn Sampson (left), takes advantage of its new online format by live-streaming performances from unique venues around the city that aren’t usually used for concerts. 10-17 October. oxfordlieder.co.uk

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THE GUIDE Modern thinking at the David Simon Contemporary

MODERN LIFE

FLOAT ON BY

London’s annual Totally Thames Festival returns this September with a mixture of digital and physical events, all celebrating the city’s most enduring asset: the river.

The outdoor programme includes a riverthemed artwork exhibition, a boat tour of Brunel’s London, archaeological walks and a sea kayaking taster weekend.

1-30 September. thamesfestivaltrust.org

See original Patrick Heron screenprints, rare glass works by Sir Terry Frost, Denis Mitchell etchings and more at the St Ives Modernists exhibition at David Simon Contemporary in Bath, celebrating this influential south west art gallery. 8-31 October. davidsimon contemporary.com

OFFLINE

PHOTOS: © MARK SENIOR; © EMMA KAULDHAR; © STANLEY SPENCER & BRIDGEMAN IMAGES; © MARCO BORGGREVE; © JAN URBANSKI; © PLASTIQUE FANTASTIQUE

The Beatitudes of Love (5): Contemplation by Stanley Spencer (1938)

HOLY TRINITY

PRAISE BE

Eking out the last of the summer rays and spearheading the very welcome return of live theatre to London is Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Jesus Christ Superstar: The Concert. The long-time family favourite runs until the end of September in Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre. Until 27 September. openairtheatre.com

An intriguing new exhibition, Love, Art, Loss at the Stanley Spencer Gallery in Cookham examines the ongoing love triangle that existed between artist Stanley Spencer and his two wives, Hilda Carline and Patricia Preece.

Featuring over 25 works, the show explores their compelling stories, as well as the effect the two women had on Spencer’s art.

Until summer 2021. stanleyspencer.org.uk

RIVERSIDE READS

A new series at arts venue Riverside Studios sees stars from TV and the West End premiering new scripts, with intimate readings performed to small, socially distanced audiences (and on Zoom).

Plays featuring in the season include Scattered by Megan van Dusen and The InBetween, a fantasy musical by Laura Tisdall.

1 Sept 20 to Feb 21. riversidestudios.co.uk September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 57

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THE GUIDE Would you recognise anyone from Kraftwerk if they were walking down the street?

C U L T U R E

THE EXHIBITIONIST

A

s museums emerge from Covid-enforced hibernation, like unfurling hedgehogs, now is the chance to visit those exhibitions you wished you had seen before lockdown.

But there are also a few new shows to take in that were put into cold storage before the pandemic paralysis and now appear, fresh and exciting, to help us move on.

One such is Electronic: From Kraftwerk to The Chemical Brothers, at the Design Museum in Kensington. Sadly, I was never a raver, and it’s a bit late for me to start trying to become one in my fifties. So this is as close as I will come. The opening night party for the exhibition was a distinctly un-rave-like occasion, socially distanced with individually wrapped nibbles (which did give you the opportunity to leave with a stash for your children). But once inside the show…

Raves, of course, are back in fashion, and this show hints at why.

There are two huge prints from my favourite photographer, Andreas Gursky, taken in Düsseldorf in 1995 – and they are mesmerising, allowing you to focus on individual dancers lost in the reverie of the evening. A flavour of what is to come.

Electronic music is the relentless beat of synthesised music, and it will surprise you to learn that it has been around for well over a century, with the creation of the first synthesiser, the Telharmonium in 1901. There are wonderful photographs of white coat-clad scientists poring over instruments that look like NASA command control units. Interestingly, a lot of the scientists were women like Daphne Oram and Delia Derbyshire, at a time when women were not prominent in the world of science. Little did they

realise the cultural phenomenon they would one day release.

And this was a cultural phenomenon, with the rave scene shaping youth and contemporary culture from Detroit to Chicago, and from Berlin to Paris (this exhibition was originally curated in France). Britain itself had the second Summer of Love in the mid-Nineties, which shaped the experience and outlook of a whole generation of teenagers who are presumably now running multinationals. The DJs and the bands became famous – but strangely anonymous, hidden behind desks and twiddling knobs, or staging theatrical shows that presaged virtual reality – Kraftwerk, The Chemical Brothers, Daft Punk – you wouldn’t recognise any of them if they walked past you in the street.

This being the Design Museum, a lot of time is spent giving wall space to the covers of the records that dominated the scene. The artwork is breathtaking. But there are also rooms devoted to films or light shows that give you the impression you are at a show or a club.

There is a permanent soundtrack to the exhibition by the French DJ and producer Laurent Garnier, but you are also invited to bring headphones to plug in at various spots around the exhibition to listen to different examples of the music.

So here is the paradox. In 2019 France passed yet more anti-rave legislation, in the same year Paris staged this exhibition celebrating electronic music’s contribution to culture. Cultural phenomenon or threat to society? The Design Museum gives you the chance to decide.

Until 14 February 2021. designmuseum.org n

PHOTOS: © PETER BOETTCHER

Ed Vaizey feels the beat at the Design Museum

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ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS

Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday destinations around the world, ski resorts in the European Alps, and the world’s greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art paper, measuring 97 x 65 cm.

Pullman Editions Ltd

Priced at £395 each.

Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547

Private commissions are also welcome.

94 Pimlico Road Chelsea

London SW1W 8PL

www.pullmaneditions.com

info@pullmaneditions.com

Our central London gallery All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions Ltd. 2020

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16/07/2020 10:59 26/08/2020 13:31

THE GUIDE The Paston Treasure (c.1665) by unknown artist. ‘Reworked with Afro hair products, Côte d’Ivoire prints, granny’s patchwork, Jessye Norman, Leontyne Price and [my] family luggage from their arrival in the UK.’

C U L T U R E

RENAISSANCE MAN

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ome people’s biggest lockdown achievement was mastering the perfect sourdough loaf (admittedly much harder than it looks). Baritone Peter Brathwaite, on the other hand, has started an artistic and cultural revolution – on Instagram.

Brathwaite’s a bit of a renaissance man: having started his singing life as a chorister, he went on to study Philosophy and Fine Art at Newcastle University, before returning to music full-time after graduation. His opera career thus far is a fascinating melange of classics, innovative new works and personal projects, working with the likes of Opera North and the English National Opera.

His Instagram revolution began with the #GettyMuseumChallenge hashtag that the LA-based institute started sharing on its social media feeds back in March, encouraging people to recreate works of art. Brathwaite decided to get involved, albeit with a twist: he would only use art that portrayed black people, from medieval tapestries to Kehinde Wiley’s 2018 portrait of Barack Obama.

‘It was to fill the big gaps that suddenly appeared in my diary,’ explains the opera singer, who was meant to be singing

PHOTOS: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; MCCORD MUSEUM; SAM BALDOCK; NORWICH CASTLE MUSEUM

Peter Brathwaite is the British opera singer recreating black portraiture – and sharing it on Instagram for the world to discover. Amy Wakeham meets him in an opera in Denmark when lockdown started.

Five months on, Brathwaite has created an impressive body of work, now entitled Rediscovering Black Portraiture.

A fascinating artistic project in its own right, it’s also a historical deep dive: each post is accompanied by a caption exploring the history of the painter and sitter, as well as the significance of the objects included in the picture. ‘It’s an interesting journey that I’ve been on in terms of learning about the paintings and how to decode and decipher them,’ says Brathwaite.

Through recreating these portraits in minute detail, Brathwaite has discovered a history of art not usually discussed in textbooks, ultimately compiling what he calls a ‘comprehensive history of black sitters in Western art’.

The project also challenges preconceived ideas about black people’s presence in Europe from the medieval period onward, and the multiple and varied roles they have played in Baritone Peter Western culture, art and society through the Brathwaite centuries. In particular, Brathwaite enjoyed learning

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PHOTOS: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS; MCCORD MUSEUM; SAM BALDOCK; NORWICH CASTLE MUSEUM

Still Life with Peaches and a Lemon (c.1650s),

by Juriaen van Streeck. ‘Reworked with African print, my heirloom patchwork quilt and Bajan chopped seasoning.’

about – and recreating – John Blanke, a musician in Henry VIII’s court, who is depicted twice in the Westminster Tournament Roll, which dates back to 1511. ‘He’s there alongside his fellow musicians, working at the highest levels. It’s incredibly inspiring for young people to see that image, and for me as a musician too. To see that there has been a heritage of black classical musicians from that time.’

It’s a history that you don’t often read about – and one that’s certainly not taught in schools. Reading through Brathwaite’s Instagram comments, you see calls for his project to be turned into a book and included in the curriculum for schools and universities.

‘It’s funny what you can learn by looking at a painting and recreating it, by getting beneath the surface and experiencing its world,’ muses Brathwaite. ‘Art is a really useful way of clarifying history and signposting it, of breaking it down in a way that’s easy to understand. Especially by recreating it because then you can bring humour in – which does a lot to open doors to this history when it can feel uncomfortable and difficult to deal with.’ And it’s already speaking to people – a few weeks ago, Brathwaite shared a post of a young boy’s recreation of Harold Gilman’s Portrait of a Black Gardener (1905).

Brathwaite has also made a point of championing unheard voices throughout his career as a baritone. For his Degenerate Music project – now Effigies of Wickedness, a co-production with the Gate Theatre and English National Opera – he collected and performed works that were banned by the Nazis during the Weimar Republic.

‘It was an opportunity to showcase some of the diversity and brilliance of the Weimar-era composers who were either murdered in the concentration camps or censored and exiled,’ Brathwaite explains. ‘There were lots of different voices from that period: black artists, queer artists, women, and they were all the cultural envoys of the day. They were doing things that we think of now as cutting edge.’

Opera has had its own controversies in recent years around colonialist story lines, blackface and yellowface. ‘It’s important that we reframe and interrogate those stories and pull them apart for contemporary audiences,’ argues Brathwaite. ‘The repertoire is robust enough to take new directorial slants and interpretations.

And addressing who’s on stage and who’s behind the scenes making the decisions is a huge thing to focus on in terms of moving towards

a place where we’re truly diverse in our companies.’

Doing his own research into banned music made Brathwaite question the industry a lot more. ‘Having explored that repertoire, it makes me realise a lot more can be done to make people feel fully represented when they go to see an opera. Opera’s a wonderful art form and it’s only richer for having diversity. It’s about storytelling and that’s what’s at the heart of it. And there’s no reason why we can’t have a range of people telling those stories.’

Brathwaite also wants to champion new operas, like The Time of Our Singing, a contemporary production he starts working on next year in Brussels about a German-Jewish scientist and his African-American wife in post-war New York. ‘This kind of story feels like the ones we should be telling now,’ he says. In the UK, he’s got a project in the pipeline with BBC Radio 3 for Black History Month in October and one of his images from Rediscovering Black Portraiture is featured in the new Getty book Off the Walls: Inspired Re-Creations of Iconic Artworks (Getty Publications, £10.99), with proceeds going to charity. One thing’s for sure, he’s certainly going to be busy.

It’s funny how a time that demanded everyone stop and pause for a while kickstarted such a prolific creative endeavour. ‘I love to champion people who don’t often get to have their voices heard,’ explains Brathwaite, smiling. instagram.com/peter_brathwaite; peterbrathwaitebaritone.com n Portrait of a Haitian Woman (1786) by François Malépart de Beaucourt. ‘Most likely Marie-Thérèse-Zémire, documented as the property of the artist’s wife.

Reworked with tinned pineapple and fairy lights.’

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03/09/2020 12:27

THE GUIDE Philipp Humm was formerly Vodafone’s CEO for Europe; now he is exploring the terrifying side of tech through art

A R T I S T ’ S

S T U D I O

PHILIPP HUMM

Caiti Grove meets the artist imagining a Faustian future

‘W

e play with fire when we let our curiosity to invent things run wild,’ asserts Philipp Humm as he slides an oil painting back into a rack in his bright, lightfilled London studio. ‘If you create a self-learning computer system more intelligent than yourself, it might attempt to save the planet by eliminating humans altogether.’

This chilling prospect – of annihilation by machine, the overreach of human ambition – is the theory behind Humm’s latest project, The Last Faust. Based on Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s epic Faust, the story of a scholar’s pact with the Devil in exchange for infinite knowledge, it includes oil and watercolour paintings, drawings, photography and sculpture. There is also an art film, starring Steven Berkoff, of Bond film fame. Updated with intriguing prescience, lustful Dr Faust still trades his soul for power and sex, but now appears as Dr Goodfellow, the CEO of Winestone Inc, a Silicon Valley tech company. He falls in love with a teenage employee and when she dies, travels back in time to marry Helen of Troy. In the end, AI takes over and possibly puts an end to the human race. It’s as nightmarish as it sounds; stylised, intense and very surreal.

Humm’s north London townhouse is full of scenes of the story; he aims to produce around 200 images. The first floor is home to an immaculately organised studio where his Dalí-esque paintings are stacked to the ceiling. In the kitchen, there is an eight-foot long photograph of an angel atop a bus stop; in the living room

another angel is crucified – a blue shawl exposes one breast as Faust looks on in despair. Next to it, a bronze captures Faust riding a poodle, the devil’s first disguise when he arrives on earth. In the hallway, an oil painting depicts Botticelli’s Venus as she lounges insouciantly bare-breasted before Van Gogh’s The Yellow House.

So how did Humm come to see technology as wildly dangerous and Silicon Valley as sordid and secretive? Far from being an arty outsider, he was Vodafone’s CEO for Europe until five years ago, and before that he was at T-Mobile US. When he moved from Seattle to London, he decided to change.

‘There are two things that drive Seattle – one is technology and the other is the outdoors. Definitely not arts. And so, you don’t have the same triggers as you have in London; arriving here it was suddenly so, so clear.’ He studied at the Fine Art Studios in 2015-16 and the Florence Academy of Art in 2016. Since then he has exhibited at the Saatchi Gallery, the Museum of Nevada and at art fairs in LA and New York.

So what next for Faust and his journey through time and space?

‘I think a novella,’ Humm declares. ‘And theatre – I love it – that’s where Faust started.’ He says it so simply that from anyone else, it would be immediately dismissed as a vague musing about the stage. But Humm’s impulse to create is palpable – and if he wants Faust to walk the boards, it will happen.

Discover Humm’s The Last Faust at philipphumm.art n

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03/09/2020 12:28

B O O K S

GOOD READS

Richard Hopton reviews four books by authors of colour

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his Lovely City (HQ, £12.99), Louise Hare’s spirited first novel, tells the story of Lawrie Matthews, a young Jamaican who arrived in Britain in 1948 aboard the Windrush, and Evie, the mixed-race London girl with whom he falls in love.

The story is set in the war-damaged streets of south London, in shabby lodgings and smoky jazz clubs, a world of post-war gloom where everything is rationed.

Against this background, Lawrie settles into a new life as a postman by day and a jazz clarinetist by night, but a malevolent coincidence intervenes to upend his good intentions. The story jumps regularly – and sometimes confusingly – between 1948 and 1950, but it rattles along. Hare brilliantly recreates the ambience of post-war London, presenting a multi-layered view of the reception accorded to the new immigrants in those early years. There was widespread incomprehension and much racism, institutional and personal, spoken and unspoken, but there was also some acceptance and much kindness.

Homecoming (Jonathan Cape, £18.99) by Colin Grant, an oral history of the Windrush generation, is the obverse of This Lovely City. It records the immigrants’ story from their backgrounds and childhoods in the Caribbean, their ‘cinnamon-scented’ past, to their often-harrowing early experiences of post-war Britain. The Windrush immigrants were young – the average age was 24 – many of them imbued with an idealised view of Britain, born of an Anglocentric education and a general reverence for the Mother Country.

On arrival, however, the Caribbean immigrants found Britain pinched, miserable and frequently hostile. Often forced to live in cramped, expensive housing with inadequate facilities, they faced widespread racism at work and in the wider community. ‘To put it bluntly,’ said one, speaking of 1949, ‘the coloured man is not wanted in British industry.’

Homecoming is an important book which records the voices of a generation as they fade into history. The treatment meted out to the Windrush generation is a disreputable, shameful episode but here

we can listen to that generation telling its story in its own words.

Kia Abdullah’s Truth Be Told (HQ, £12.99) is a legal thriller, based on a male rape at an expensive all-boys London boarding school.

The victim is Kamran Hadid, 17-year-old son of a wealthy Muslim family. This is not a story set in the more deprived reaches of the British Muslim community: the family live in great comfort in a large house in Belsize Park. The novel’s principal actor, Zara Kaleel, is a Muslim of humbler origins, an ex-barrister with a diazepam habit, who works tirelessly to save Kamran from the law and himself. The story is compelling with an unexpected twist at the end raising interesting questions about race, sex, and cultural identity.

The Doctor Will See You Now by Amir Khan (Ebury, £16.99) is a report from general practice, the NHS’s frontline. Khan is a GP of 15 years’ experience who works in an inner-city practice in the north of England. The book comprises a series of case studies interwoven with much thoughtful comment on the state of the NHS, all recounted anecdotally. It is by turns alarming, sad, uplifting and comic. Khan’s first experience of verbal abuse at the hands of a patient was being told to ‘fuck off’ by a seven-year-old boy during a home visit. The book finishes with an account of the Covid-19 pandemic. ‘It was,’ Khan writes, ‘one of the worst times of my career, but strangely … I never felt more useful.’ n September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 63

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03/09/2020 12:20

UPFRONT

ORGANIC ESSENTIALS

G A R D E N I N G

GREEN SHOOTS

Gardener David Domoney’s five top tips on how to grow organic fruit and veg at home

T

he process of growing your own fruit and vegetables is an extremely satisfying task, and the magic of harvesting produce that you have grown by hand never fades. Gardening is also beneficial mentally and physically, because exercise releases endorphins and designing your garden is a creative way to express yourself. No matter how big or small, every garden, patio or windowsill is suitable to growing. Here are five things to know before you start.

PAPIER The gardening planner. £21.99. papier.com

4

In smaller spaces, raised beds are popular for planting fruit and vegetables as they are great for drainage due to them being above ground level and are the perfect way to incorporate organic soil into your fruit and veg patch.

Window boxes and planters can also work well.

2

CREATE YOUR OWN COMPOST

Creating your own organic matter by composting is a fantastic way of reducing your household waste, improving the biodiversity in your green spaces and producing quality compost that’s ready to use in your garden or window box to help your new fruit and veg flourish. All you need to do is buy or build a compost bin where you can dispose of your leftover food, and it will be broken down by bacteria, fungi, worms and insects.

FEED WELL

Tomatoes and courgettes will thrive on weekly feeds with a specialist organic plant food. Low feeders such as carrots and onions will happily grow with one feed every two to three weeks.

5 3

ALL NATURAL

Going organic requires a new approach to pest control. You’ll need to use a good natural pesticide to help with things like slug control.

Other deterrents you could use are physical barriers like mesh netting to keep certain insects away from vegetables, while companion planting also helps to control pests and can aid pollination of your crops and flowers. Try growing nasturtiums or marigolds to deter aphids from attacking your beans, and planting alliums around carrots to ward off carrot root fly.

HAWS Fazeley Flow copper edition watering can. £35.99. haws.co.uk

WATER WISELY

Timely watering is critical to help your garden thrive, and you will need to pay close attention. Dry soils can become a breeding ground for certain weeds and plant diseases, while damp, humid conditions make plants susceptible to others.

MIRACLE-GRO Performance Organics liquid fruit and veg food. £5.99. lovethe garden.com

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

1

ANY SPACE IS GOOD SPACE

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03/09/2020 12:23

Netflix documentary The Last Dance, about Michael Jordan’s mesmeric bastketball career, kept the normally globe-trotting Seb Coe firmly in front of his screen

S P O R T S

THE OLYMPIAN

Seb Coe is coming to terms with a technology-driven world

PHOTOS: © NETFLIX

T

echnology has never been one of my sweet spots. I write everything longhand – including this column.

I don’t type, don’t send emails and have never owned a laptop. And my flirtation with any form of screen is limited to an iPad onto which one of my long-suffering children downloads things for me to watch on long-haul flights – which dried up during lockdown. I can’t remember when I have been landlocked for so long in the last 30 years. A colleague joked that Warren Buffett sold all his airline stock when he heard I had stopped flying.

Given the hand-to-mouth nature of leading an international sports organisation of well over 200 national federations, I’ve never really got into a pattern of watching television. If I’m at home over the weekend I tend to choose sports, although lately most of that is limited to memory lane reruns, plus endless Covid-19 news bulletins.

I’ve come to realise that, even with the recent explosion of channels, most offerings are pretty thin gruel. It’s really not that surprising that TV has become

peripheral in the lives of our children: their world is à la carte and their viewing patterns are no different. Netflix has certainly come to my rescue in the last few months, with its vast amount of choice and flexibility. The documentary, The Last Dance, chronicling US

basketball giant Michael Jordan’s career, is as riveting as it is revealing and will certainly sweep up a sack load of awards come red carpet season. It’s a powerful reminder of the enormity of US professional sport, and for me the pick of the series is the episode with the mercurial, exasperating and outrageously talented Dennis Rodman, covering his stint with the Chicago Bulls.

Speaking of Michael Jordan, I recently interviewed the founder and visionary behind Nike, Phil Knight, for my podcast series Extraordinary Tales in Extraordinary Times. As a freshly minted Stanford grad he travelled alone to Japan and persuaded a well-established shoe brand they needed a presence in the US market. From this relationship Nike was born and the rest is history – it’s now a $44 billion business.

Knight explained he views his recruitment of Jordan into the Nike ranks as one of, if not the, pivotal moments in the trajectory of the business.

So what can we take with us from the lockdown months that improves our businesses and our work-life balance? For me, it’s clear cut: the recognition that the technology we have relied on so heavily to keep our organisations afloat is here to stay. Of course, we don’t want to strangle face-to-face engagement but there has to be a better balance for our businesses, our own health and welfare and the planet.

Athletics comes out of lockdown stronger, better connected and fleeter of foot, and that has to remain in the post-pandemic world. It might even allow me more time to surf Netflix’s offerings. n

Michael Jordan and team mate Horace Grant

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C A R S

ROAD TEST

The ultimate all-rounder? Jeremy Taylor tries out the über-efficient BMW 3 Series estate

VITA L STATS BMW 330d xDrive M Sport Plus Edition Touring PRICE £48,765 POWER 265 bhp 0-62MPH 5.4 seconds ECONOMY 42.8 mpg STREAMING I’m In Love With A German Film Star, The Passions

TOWN

COUNTRY

If the god of car design created a vehicle that suited everyone it would probably be a BMW 3 Series Touring. Well-built, spacious and jolly fast, this is a compact estate for families bored with SUVs. Sales of estate cars have dropped through the floor because of SUVs, claiming just seven per cent of the market, while SUVs almost a third. So why would you buy a BMW 3 Series Touring then?

The 3.0d M Sport Plus Edition is just over £47,000 and exceptionally well equipped. Build quality matches the badge but if you want to buy a BMW X3 SUV expect to pay another £15,000.

It’s true the Touring doesn’t offer the raised visibility people crave in town, while rear visibility is tight through a small back window. However, the BMW is a very pretty machine and handles much better than an SUV thanks to the lower roofline.

Ingeniously, the rear screen opens independently too, drop shopping in without opening the powered tailgate, while the back seats fold electronically.

Too small for a growing family? Trade up to a BMW 5 Series Touring, essentially the same car only bigger. BMW has thought of everything. Well, almost everything – you can’t buy an electric version of either yet for urban use but it’s no doubt coming.

RATING: 4/5 HANDBAGS

If you enjoy driving more than simply getting from A to B then the brilliant 3 Series is one of the best handling compact cars available. In saloon form it’s a benchmark – and this Touring version isn’t far behind either. You will only really spot the difference on a fast corner, helped in this instance by xDrive, which offers four-wheel drive grip when the Touring might otherwise lose traction.

For driver involvement, that tried and tested BMW six-cylinder diesel unit delivers power effortlessly.

It revs far easier than most diesels and the cabin remains remarkably quiet. Inside, the Touring is a very lovely place to sit. In our top spec M trim leather and metal dominate, it feels as plush as a Porsche.

On longer journeys, or in times of splendid isolation, you can chat with an ‘intelligent personal assistant’ for certain cabin functions, while a BMW app operates others from a mobile phone.

A dog guard is also part of the package – if you don’t own a pooch it can be stored in a slot under the boot floor, along with a luggage cover. This is a useful place for stashing the family valuables.

For most people then, the BMW 3 Series Touring is the only car they will ever need. Drive it anywhere, push it to the limit – it’s the ultimate all-rounder.

RATING: 5/5 WELLIES

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03/09/2020 12:21

THE GUIDE Bring the whole family; East House sleeps up to 11

THE RIDE – HARLEYDAVIDSON STREET GLIDE SPECIAL NORTHUMBERLAND

VITA L STATS Harley-Davidson Street Glide Special PRICE £22,895 ENGINE 1868cc POWER 89PS TOP SPEED 105mph FUEL CAPACITY 22.7 litres STREAMING Born To Be Wild, Steppenwolf

Thanks to Dominic Cummings the north east has received plenty of publicity in recent months. Now, at last, you can travel there safely and enjoy one of the most beautiful, overlooked counties in England.

The golden sands of Cheswick beach stretch along Northumberland’s Heritage Coast – 40 miles of dramatic scenery from Amble to Berwick-uponTweed, three miles from the Scottish border.

It’s the perfect location on a warm afternoon to escape the crowds – and you can see it all from the window of East House, including nearby Bamburgh Castle. This Grade II Georgian mansion stands in splendid isolation not far from the sea, with spectacular views in all directions.

A quintessential country home with all the trimmings, the extensive property boasts an elegant drawing room, stylish fabrics and a whopping kitchen that’s perfect for preparing Sunday lunch or Pimm’s No 1 on the extensive lawns.

Store your body boards, fishing rods and golf clubs in the utility and let your dog dry off in the

IN THE BOOT GEEK-OUT GADGETS LEGO LAMBO Lamborghini’s next supercar will be an electric-petrol hybrid called Sián. Can’t afford the badge? Lego has teamed up with the Italian supercar maker to offer a 1:8 model for big kids everywhere. £349. lego.com

BOOTIE Sidi makes stylish Italian motorcycle boots – the Adventure 2 GoreTex come in three colour choices, with Gore-Tex liner, nonslip sole and ankle supports. Great for would-be Ewan McGregors. £334. sidiselect.co.uk

boot room after a romp on the beach. With space for up to 11 guests, East House is the perfect bolthole to bring the extended family back together again post-lockdown and enjoy a proper British holiday by the sea.

And thank goodness the weather has been kind because I’ve travelled up from Gloucestershire on Harley-Davidson’s new Street Glide Special – an iconic US touring bike that’s also nimble enough for British roads.

The Special is my favourite Harley, partly because it’s a bike you can ride every day and has a range of practical features, such as lockable side panniers and an infotainment system that includes excellent satellite navigation.

The ‘batwing’ front fairing will also keep rain and wind at bay, crucial for the Street Glide’s upright riding position. It’s a fabulous place to sit on a long ride, with Harley’s whopping 1868cc engine providing all the soundtrack you need.

All you really have to do is pick the right colour – Matt Black or River Rock Grey are par for the course, or choose Performance or Scorched Orange to make a real statement.

Long and low, the Street Glide really turns heads. And it needs too with Triumph and BMW expanding their range of retro machines. For a long-distance ride over the Yorkshire Moors, the Harley-Davidson is an ideal companion – it’s not classic Route 66 but this is a time to enjoy what Britain has to offer.

BOOK IT: Seven nights from £1,280. crabtreeandcrabtree.com

SCOOT TO IT Avoid public transport and stay fit during the pandemic with the folding Micro Scooter Flex Deluxe. £179.95. microscooters.co.uk

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Diana, formerly David, has written about transitioning in a Telegraph column

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THE GUIDE

Charlotte Metcalf talks transitioning and fighting prejudice with Diana Thomas Portrait by ALEXANDRA DAO

S

carfes Bar has opened up specially so that Diana Thomas and I can have the first post-lockdown conversation there. I lead Diana through a side entrance via the kitchens to the eerily empty bar, chatting about lockdown as we go: ‘Though I lost my wonderful father to Covid earlier this year, I know more people who know a trans person than someone who’s died from Coronavirus – was it really worth closing down a country for?’

It’s the preface to a lively conversation, made all the more enjoyable because Diana and I were at university together, back when she was David. David went on to become a prolific awardwinning journalist and editor of Punch, settling down to married life with two daughters and a son.

Needless to say, it has been a tough couple of years, not least with her family, a subject she will never discuss publicly, apart from her father: ‘He never once expressed a feeling that I’d disappointed him as his only son. He was only ever kind and loving and was keeping all my columns to turn into a book for friends. It’s amazing how quickly he accepted me as his daughter.’

Just before lockdown, mutual friends invited me to a small dinner party to celebrate Penthouse or Diana’s first outing as a woman. I had seen country cottage?

Both – I live in a David several times during his transition penthouse in the and we’d chatted about facial hair and breasts, country. but nothing prepared me for how moved Michelin star or I felt when I watched the elegant woman country pub?

If someone’s come tripping along the pavement with a paying, Michelin dainty, ladylike step. star.

Now we meet again at Scarfes and Diana’s Theatre or in a celebratory mood. For her Telegraph Gardening?

Gardening. column about transitioning, she’s been named Columnist of the Year and has received the Glass of wine or green tea? Glass prestigious discretionary British Press Awards of wine.

Chairman’s Award. She’s also fresh from a visit to Killer heels or a psychiatrist, one more necessary step towards sensible flats? the surgery that will complete her transition.

I’m already six foot, but if I have When I ask her if she can start at the the penthouse beginning for our readers, she says simply, and the Michelin star I probably ‘Not transitioning was an awful lot harder need the heels. than transitioning.’ It’s also why she decided to abandon anonymity for her column. ‘I spent so

IN BRIEF

much of my life living in shame, as if I’d committed a terrible sin and it made me feel very vulnerable. I’d had enough of that.

I wanted to be proud of who I was for once.

‘You have to own up to who you are, and it feels so much better when you do,’ she continues. ‘The vast majority of people I meet are incredibly kind and positive towards me. Ironically, it’s often the ones who regard themselves as liberal that are the most hurtful and condescending. They assume that their supposed moral superiority gives them the right to say whatever they like. So, if I explain why JK Rowling’s opinions offend moderate, intelligent trans people, they’ll say things like, “I find your arguments unpersuasive,” or, “Of course, you’ll never be a woman. That’s just science.” One supposedly well-meaning person kept saying, “I’m the only person brave enough to say this ...” as if all my friends were twittering maliciously behind my back.’

Diana uses the analogy of immigration to explain transition.

‘If someone born in India comes to Britain legally, passes the citizenship test and gets a UK passport, who dares say, “You’re not British”? Only a racist. Well, as far as the law goes, when I get a Gender Recognition Certificate, I’ll be a woman, just as that immigrant is British and denying that fact would be no better than racial prejudice.

‘Some people tell me that trans women are still dangerous men who should be banned from women-only spaces. Then they say, “Of course, we didn’t mean ones like you, who look like women.” But I’m fortunate and privileged enough to afford facial surgery and voice coaching. Those who can’t are portrayed as terrifying, big, hairy, Desperate-Dan-in-a-frock trannies when the truth is they’re just poor. Plus, there’s a belief that sex changes are being handed out to children like Smarties, when it’s actually very hard to get gender confirmation surgery at any age. This is all hurtful and scary. It’s encouraging people to feel hostile and even violent towards us.’

For all the problems trans people face, Diana’s view remains positive. ‘I feel I’m writing something of real value because I’m describing the actual experience of being trans, when there are so many negative stereotypes. But I absolutely don’t believe in “cancel culture”. I would much rather defeat ignorance and transphobia with persuasive argument. Let’s get JK into the Oxford Union and then I’ll argue against the motion, “This house believes no man can be a woman”. Bring it on! When I’ve completed my transition and can honestly stand up and say, “I’m a woman,” I will bloody well mean it.’ n September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 69

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NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO JOIN THE CLUB!

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10/07/2020 10:10

SMOKE& SRORRIM It’s all an illusion Fashion director NICOLE SMALLWOOD Photographer MICHELLE BEATTY

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Top and skirt, both Louis Vuitton

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Coat, Mulberry.

Dress, Molly Goddard

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Skirt, jumper and boots, all Hermès

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Dress, boots, belt and all jewellery, Alexander McQueen

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Coat, Stella McCartney. Skirt, Victoria Beckham.

Bralette, Commando.

Boots, Bottega Veneta

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Jumpsuit and cardigan, Bottega Veneta.

Boots, Mulberry

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Skirt and top, Molly Goddard.

Briefs, Baserange. Ruby and diamond necklace set in gold and platinum, Harry Winston.

Fabric, stylist’s own TEAM Art director: Fleur Harding Hair: Alexis Day using SheaMoisture UK Makeup: by Alexis Day using CHANEL Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation Hydration and Longwear and CHANEL Camellia Water Cream Photographer’s assistants: Edgar Chudoba and Asher Herr Fashion assistant: Daisy Bryson Model: Symone Challenger at Linden Staub The team shot on location at the David Harber sculpture exhibition at Great Fosters Hotel near Windsor. The exhibition will run until spring 2021. Rooms start at £209, davidharber.co.uk; greatfosters.co.uk STOCKISTS: PAGE 134

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28/08/2020 14:29 15:58 02/09/2020

I, CLAUDIA As Claudia Schiffer turns 50, she shares her thoughts on age, indulgences and interiors with Lucy Cleland

we have cakes and parties on our birthdays, and I feel the same way about getting older each year. I am so happy to be turning 50 and have never felt more confident or happy in my life. I don’t try to look or feel younger, I embrace now.

What did you want to be when you were a little girl? A vet.

I have always loved animals; growing up I had a dog called Sultan, a budgie called Puckie and a mouse called Nikima.

If you could give advice to your 15-year-old self, what would it be? Enjoy every year as with experience comes confidence. Learn

from your mistakes and constantly grow. Don’t compare yourself to anyone else, no one is perfect, everyone is different, learn to love your imperfections as they make you who you are. Just concentrate on being happy and healthy and the rest will follow.

How has the prism of age made you reflect on some of your choices? I have always enjoyed getting older as it comes with more

confidence and I hugely appreciate the position I’m in now. I’m very lucky to love what I do and to be able to pick and choose my projects. I’m also enjoying the different avenues my career has taken including roles where I am designing or curating collections.

How would you describe being a model in the '90s? It was insane…

take to make a difference. I’m careful about what we dispose of, including clothing, because I’m more aware than ever of the life cycle of clothes and the incredible number of things we needlessly throw away. I wear a lot of vintage and I’ve kept many pieces from my career. I am the kind of person who finds it difficult to part with things. Each piece is, after all, a memory, so I want my daughters to wear everything that I have, and it feels good to give them a legacy.

What qualities do you think have made you successful? I would probably say that I’m tenacious, intuitive – I do follow my instincts.

What would your best friend say about you? That she can count on me when she needs me.

What principles do you instil in your children? I teach my kids to be independent thinkers and to go for their dreams, regardless of what people think. And to be kind and gentle.

What are your indulgences? On a day when I feel like indulging I love eating traditional, old-fashioned German stews that my mother used to cook for me. Other favourites for special days or weekends are [included in] an all-Italian buffet of pizzas, risottos, pastas, Parma hams and burrata with Sassicaia red wine.

‘PEOPLE WOULD CUT HOLES INTO THE FASHION TENTS AND TRY TO TAKE PICTURES OF US...

SECURITY WAS EVEN EMPLOYED TO GUARD MY UNDERWEAR!’

like being like a rock star. You couldn’t get to your car unless a path was carved for you. People would cut holes into the fashion tents and try to take pictures of us. We had security at every fashion show to the extent that security was even employed to guard my underwear! When I was out on the runway I’d come back and my underwear would constantly be gone!

Did you have to learn to say no or were you always able to stand up for yourself and make your own choices? Me and the other

girls [Naomi, Linda, Cindy et al] were on the cover of every magazine and in every campaign. We lived and breathed it and we developed unprecedented control over our careers. Also, although we could be competitive, there was a lot of camaraderie between us too.

We looked out for each other and we weren’t afraid to speak up.

The fashion world has come under scrutiny for its practices when it comes to sustainability and labour. Has this influenced you and how you shop and consume? I think we see increasing numbers

of brands within the industry looking at ways to produce and operate more sustainably, but of course there’s still a long way to go. We all need to make decisions that reflect what’s best for the next generation.

It’s a sad state the planet is in and there are simple steps we can all

What is your current beauty regime? In term time I wake up early

with the kids and need to get them ready for school, so I like a routine that’s straightforward and it tends to be the same regardless of the season.

I use Bamford products. I start with the Cleansing Balm followed by the Refining Exfoliator. Depending on how dry my skin is, I mix my Moisturising Cream with different oils – Bamford’s Restore, Awaken and Life Elixirs – and massage them into my skin. I then use a little of the Triple Action Eye Cream and, if I think I need extra hydration, the face Serum, which really leaves my skin feeling soft and nourished. In the evening, after a meditation session with my Calm app, I’ll use the Nourishing Mask while I have my evening bath with B Silent Night-Time Bath Concentrate and Daylesford’s Detox Bath Salts.

Are you more comfortable in town or country? We’ve chosen to live in the countryside. We’re in the midst of rolling hills, fields and farmland. I love the calmness and being surrounded by nature and wildlife. Even when it’s raining, just watching the formation of the clouds is amazing.

Are you conscious of what you put in your body? Yes, I make an effort to eat seasonal, local, organically grown fruit and vegetables, which are free from pesticides, and meat and dairy from organic farms like Daylesford. My treats are chocolates and, every once in a while, a great red wine or my favourite Léoube rosé.

PHOTO: LUCIE MCCULLIN

You’ve just entered your sixth decade. What does age mean to you? I think age should be celebrated and revered. There’s a reason

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PHOTO: LUCIE MCCULLIN

Claudia wears a bespoke dress, made by Balmain in celebration of her birthday

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on a more detailed and decorative design in the figurative style of Bordallo Pinheiro. Both collections sit well together and it’s a long-term collaboration, so there will be more pieces coming out throughout this and next year, with a continued theme of nature and unique colours, also exploring different shapes and dimensions.

You also worked on a capsule collection with Être Cécile – what are your favourite pieces?

The collaboration is inspired by the effortless feel of ’60s and ’70s style icons like Sylvie Vartan and Jane Birkin.

Like Être Cécile, I love that everyday, cool, French-girl aesthetic and my everyday ‘uniform’ tends to be denim coupled with great accessories and really easy separates like the Être Cécile ‘COUCOU’ skinny knit or one of the cotton tees in the summer, such as one in grey with a favourite '90s editorial shot by Herb Ritts. I also love the sweatshirts like the navy version, which references my nickname, Cloudy, in a multi-coloured and embroidered cloud shape.

Would you now choose interiors over fashion? I love them both and

When it comes to your home interiors, how would you describe your style? In our Oxfordshire home, the modern design includes

strict architectural lines and a lot of open space and glass, which led us to create an interior that softens. I prefer not to work in a structured way with interior designers where everything is decided and laid out.

I like finding one chair and working out what goes with that and building it up, because then it’s about you and who you are as a family.

I’ve also collected glassware, ceramics and porcelain for years, as well as contemporary art and mid-century vintage furniture. Our home is a mix of '50s, '60s and '70s pieces, from Scandinavian style to Bauhaus German. Architecturally, it’s the polar opposite of our Suffolk home, where we still spend our holidays, which is an Elizabethan house.

You’ve collaborated on a ceramic collection. What inspired this?

Yes, I have a glassware and ceramics collaboration with the heritage Portuguese brands Vista Alegre and Bordallo Pinheiro, which has just launched globally. Growing up near the Rhine in Germany, surrounded by countryside, I often drew inspiration from nature like butterflies and clouds. So when I developed the vases for Vista Alegre, I chose naturalistic colours that really explored that sense of bringing nature into the home. For the ceramic pieces I decided

What 50th birthday wishes did you make for the next decade?

The biggest plan is to keep my family safe in these crazy times.

I’m curating an exhibition on ’90s photography [opening] at the Kunstpalast Museum in Düsseldorf in March 2021, which will include a host of incredible photographers from Helmut Newton to Herb Ritts.

And, finally, how will you be marking the occasion? I’m incredibly excited that brands including Aquazzura, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Isabel Marant and Versace, as well as Bamford, Barbie, Frame Denim and Lucie Kaas are releasing limited edition and one-off pieces in celebration of my birthday, launching this September and October. From a taste and style perspective to a shared ethos on embracing age, health and well-being, these are all brands that are special to me, so I’m thrilled. Select items and sales will go towards a number of charities from Unicef, for whom I’m a UK Ambassador, to Heads Together and Humanitas Ricerca. n

PHOTO: ANDREW WOFFINDEN

Claudia wearing Ulla Johnson ` and pictured with her ‘Cloudy Butterflies for Bordallo Pinheiro’ collection (bordallopinheiro.com)

I think they’re very interconnected. I’m also really interested in contemporary art, which I’ve been collecting for years.

Will you ever retire? I’m very lucky to love, and to be able to pick and choose, my projects. I’m enjoying the different avenues my career has taken, including curating roles and design collaborations with partners I admire. That was a natural next step for me, and I look forward to more new experiences and projects. I love what I do and hope to continue for a long time.

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A different perspective Some furniture is made for the here and now. Some is built to stand the test of time.

At Neptune, we believe that the best can do both.

Because good design never gets old.

Book an appointment to chat to one of our friendly designers – on us. neptune.com

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01/09/2020 13:44

HOUSE & HOUND In her new book Susanna Salk interviews interior designers at their country homes where dogs are just as important as the furniture Photography by STACEY BEWKES

A

s many people would agree, no home is complete without a dog (or two) inside.

It’s this idea that Susanna Salk draws upon for her latest book At Home in the English Countryside: Designers and Their Dogs, in which she profiles 17 notable British interior designers, alongside their beautiful homes and canine companions. We’ve chosen three of Salk’s most illuminating interviews from within its pages to give a glimpse inside this most fascinating of books.

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Is a home a home without a dog in it? These interior designers think not

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CHRISTOPHER HOWE

Nestled among wildflowers and a brook and tucked just off a country road in Gloucestershire, the stone barn that Christopher Howe converted is revealed across a cross section of staggered floors. Its four sections, separated by a generous oak staircase, deftly define all that is needed to enjoy a bucolic life in the country: a sitting room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom. ‘I push the glass doors wide open in the summer and the dogs (Apollo Slimline Hipster and Great Bear) can come and go, but also so that ducks can wander in, sometimes in the morning while I’m still in bed,’ says Howe. ‘Occasionally the sheep do, too.’

There are thoughtful, intriguing furniture choices, such as a 1950s Serge Mouille three-arm ceiling lamp hanging above a 16th-century bed from Yorkshire throughout. All the distinct yet humble pieces have been found for a song and bargained for here, there, and everywhere.

After all, Howe has an international reputation as an expert in the history of furniture. In 1986, this former sculpture student opened two bustling antiques and home shops on Pimlico Road. Howe takes his ethos of mixing quality and character wherever he can.

The decor of the barn takes its style cues from Howe’s belief that ‘most importantly I want to be surrounded by things I love and find useful’.

He comes here as often as he can, to enjoy the wildflowers in the summer and the crackling log fires during the bleak midwinter. He brings two dogs who are very much a part of his work family with him when their schedules allow – Apollo, who belongs to Joanne Brierley, his shop manager, and Great Bear, belonging to his daughter, Holly Howe, who also works with him. ‘During the work week Apollo and Great Bear’s principal duties include greeting customers at the shops and modelling,’ says Howe.

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‘This is where I come to wind down and do all the things I love with my family, so the interior had to have a sophistication, but it also has to be home for my boys and dog.’ She mixed modern pieces with antiques and bespoke fabrics and used serene colours for the walls, such as aqua and creamy greys.

‘Whatever the task here, it is the ideal break from the bustle of our London life,’ says Pooley, who oversees 45 interior designers at her busy firm. ‘When I need to travel back to my Knightsbridge office, Herbie often comes with me. He is very much at home in the design studio there and a great addition to the team, not to mention my family. I love having a shadow again – the house and family are a different place having him in our world.’

KATHARINE POOLEY

‘Having a dog is all about an adventure no matter where you are,’ says Pooley. And she should know, having visited over 150 countries, summited many of the world’s highest mountains, driven a team of dogs to the North Pole, ridden horseback across the Sahara, and even trekked to see gorillas in Virunga, Rwanda.

But there is also plenty for her and Herbie to explore right at home at The Coach House, the weekend refuge they share with Pooley’s husband, Dan, and their two boys, Jack and Charlie. Set within an estate of mature trees and parkland, the house has been renovated and fashioned into an elegant and calm oasis.

Its site dates back to an eighth-century estate.

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GAVIN HOUGHTON

This besotted trio (Gavin and his two Jack Russells Jack and Jill) spend every weekend they can in the country, leaving their weekday Victorian terrace house in Stockwell. Their destination is outside Oxford, in a cosy retreat along a row of early Cotswold cottages. ‘It was probably once for the servants for the big house nearby,’ says Houghton.

When Houghton took over the house seven years ago, the walls in the sitting

room were a dead salmon pink, which he decided to change to green. ‘I call it Kermit Green,’ says Houghton, who opened a bustling design business in London ten years ago, after editorial and styling stints at the World of Interiors and British Vogue. ‘It sounds crazy but works very well. Since I’ve done it, I often use the same hue for clients’ homes – and everyone loves it.’

Houghton brings lots of vintage Colefax & Fowler prints into his country cottage. ‘It is great fun decorating a weekend cottage, since it is a little like playing house and you can use things that you might chuck out in London. Every piece here is dog friendly. I’m not as strict about that as I am in London.’ The dogs, ‘who luckily have very good taste,’ join Houghton on regular visits to the local junk shops for paintings and china. ‘I religiously like to add to what I think of as my Charleston – the Bloombury group’s country house – moment,’ says Houghton. ‘Love a plate on the wall.’

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26/08/2020 10:55

Vanessa Branson with her mother, Eve

ISN’T LIFE WONDERFUL? PHOTOS: LEILA ALAOUI

At a pivotal time in her own life, Vanessa Branson delved into her family history in a quest to find out more about her parents. The results make for a humdinger of a read, finds Marcus Scriven

‘W

henever I see Indian friends now, I say: “We could be cousins”. A bond to a whole continent.’

Perhaps that bond explains the tiger-smile – prelude to delighted laughter – or even the silvered plimsolls, if not the signet ring and splendour of the family cheekbones, nor, quite, the loose-sleeved cotton top in bold black and white (‘designed by ArtC., a young Moroccan designer’).

Vanessa Branson has just ‘hammered back’ to Sussex from Shona, her island off Scotland’s west coast. It’s taken her six decades to learn of her Indian great-grandmother, a discovery all

the sweeter for being made as she researched and wrote One Hundred Summers: A Family Story.

It’s addictively good, a fusion of family portrait and personal memoir, born of a suddenly ravenous need to know more about her parents and ‘where their values came from – particularly my father’s’.

The quest began in 2017, six years after his death at 93 and five years after the end of an intense but ill-starred marriage. She was 57, a ‘fulcrum’ age, she reflects, with her parents’ wartime generation fading away just as her children were starting families of their own.

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retrieved from the ruins of the recent past (‘My darling Clare, I’m so sorry to hear about Gerard…’ ‘… Don’t be’); some of it entrusted to her by cousins rarely seen, one of whom handed her a bundle of letters, on which appeared the plea: ‘Could anyone who finds these please burn them’ – a request which, mercifully, Vanessa ignored (‘Forgive me, dear Grandmother…’).

In at least one instance, her intervention was just in time. ‘All these albums that my mum was going to throw away. They’re so beautiful’ – but not, she admits, entirely comprehensive: ‘Only the dogs are named.’

Dissuading her mother – force-of-nature Eve Branson – from doing anything she’s set on is a UN-level triumph, even now. Her energy, writes Vanessa, ‘seems to increase with each conversation’. There’s no need to revise that verdict. ‘She’s 96 today. She’s got vascular dementia, so her short-term memory is a bit short. Very short.’ This proved a bonus when reading her the work in progress. ‘She never got bored of the same story,’ says Vanessa, laughing with adoration and acceptance.

‘It was lovely, the pleasure that it gave her. She’s on great form. Just the best – still. I think she’s just going to go on and on.’

It seems quite likely. Her own mother, Dorothy, known as ‘Dock’ – gymnast, cricketer, ice-skater, swimmer, squash and tennis-player – eventually expired at 99, though not before becoming acquainted with the latest Branson generation, despite claiming that she was ‘not really interested’ in her great-grandchildren (‘their genes are too diluted,’ she told a friend).

Dock comfortably holds her own with those from either side of the family – a suffragette (force-fed at Holloway) and Captain Scott (‘my great-grandfather’s first cousin’), as well as prelates, bishops and lawyers, a doctor and judge or two, including Vanessa’s paternal grandfather, Sir George Branson, successively of Wharfenden House, Surrey, and Bradfield Hall, Suffolk, plus a gardener’s boy who inherited a fortune, and at least one vegan (something of a pioneer, he harvested his food from municipal parks close to his Balham flat – his sole residence after he’d given away his Hampshire estate to his tenants, deciding that they were worthier of it than him). Interviewed during the war, when his foraging talents made him a cause celebre, he voiced what surely must be the family creed: ‘A Branson,’ he observed, ‘never says “can’t”.’

‘That Branson lot were just amazing, those brothers – incredibly energetic, clever and athletic,’ says Vanessa, speaking of Sir George and vegan Jim and two others.

The same qualities – plus one more – radiate through her own generation. Like both her parents, and her siblings, Richard and Lindy, nine and five years her senior respectively, Vanessa is dyslexic – ‘a real thread running through the family’.

It meant that her father, initially destined for Eton, went to Bootham, a Quaker school in York, instead. Quaker philosophy – ‘everybody has good in them’ – entirely accorded with Ted Branson’s character. ‘It was so much my father’s thing. Dad always saw the good in everybody. When you were with him you just felt it.’

Hoping to become an archaeologist, he was corralled into the law by his father, the phenomenal if imperious Sir George.

Looking out from Vanessa’s house on one of summer’s cinematic days – something of a Merchant Ivory set: sweep of lawn, oaks and copper beeches, walls of mellow brick, 600 yards of track laced through

the fields to the world beyond – the uninitiated might assume that this is what Vanessa and her siblings have always been accustomed to. They would be wrong. Ted’s Purdeys were heirlooms; the ‘family toothbrush’ wasn’t a figurative expression.

Vanessa first had one of her own when she headed to boarding school (fees paid by a family trust).

‘He was never a dazzling barrister, never a QC; he found his niche being a stipendiary magistrate,’ says Vanessa, adding that, when home each evening to Shamley Green in Surrey, he began work again, this time for Eve’s fancy goods business. ‘He would never have been a successful businessman; he was too gentle.

But he was so good with his hands. He could make anything.’

The children’s lives were guided by intuition and experimentation, and characterised by periodic bloodshed – once enthusiastically filmed by Eve on cine camera – and family fishing trips fuelled by alcohol and enhanced by engine failure.

Perhaps they sensed that Ted had experienced worse, but he limited his wartime reminiscences to ‘stories about racing a tank on his horse.’

Richard was always ‘super-charged’, and Lindy ‘undeniably beautiful’, while the family characteristics could be summarised as playfulness and showmanship and an appetite for risk. ‘I think what defines us is… not being frightened,’ says Vanessa, whose accomplishments at Box Hill School included scaling the roof using dressing-gown cords as a safety rope.

In adulthood, she has, so far, vaulted from cordon bleu cook and picture-framer to founder of the Marrakesh Biennale and owner of Shona (‘an act of lunacy’) and, as ‘accidental hotelier’, creator and co-owner of the most Instagrammed hotel in the world, El Fenn in Marrakesh, as well as championing artists from apartheid South Africa and – trickier – the Soviet Union, plus all manner of civic endeavour, and becoming mother of four adored children.

But she admits that the coronavirus outbreak has given her pause for thought, though not on her own account. ‘That [younger] generation have not dealt with it terribly well, even though it doesn’t really touch them. The amount of anxiety [they feel] worries me a bit.’

Her brother’s impending advance into space offers them the chance to reassess what risk really is. As does learning more about Ted, who, after his beloved sister’s funeral, explained to Vanessa why he hadn’t cried. ‘Ah, darling, I lost most of my friends in the war. I gave up crying at funerals a long time ago.’

She recently found his wartime diary.

‘Anzio. 120 days of being bombarded.

They spent every single day as though it was going to be their last. Couldn’t dwell.’

Nor did he. ‘Isn’t life wonderful?’ was his undying refrain.

Vanessa has it tattooed - discreetly in blue – on the underside of her right forearm.

One Hundred Summers: A Family Story

by Vanessa Branson (Mensch) n

PHOTOS: KASIA GATKOWSKA; JACK BROCKWAY

THE FAMILY CHARACTERISTICS COULD BE SUMMARISED AS PLAYFULNESS, SHOWMANSHIP AND AN APPETITE FOR RISK

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PHOTOS: KASIA GATKOWSKA; JACK BROCKWAY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Vanessa, Richard and Lindy (1966); Vanessa; Vanessa with her husband Robert (1988); Lindy, Richard and Vanessa, Eve at the front on Eilean Shona; Vanessa’s hideaway on Eilean Schona

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A GOOD LIFE Covid-19 has given us the opportunity to change the status quo, and it begins at the kitchen table. Lucy Cleland gorges on a lesson from Carolyn Steel on why food should be at the heart of everything we do

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picture paints a thousand words or, in First, back to Lorenzetti’s picture, which, Carolyn says, ‘is my the case of Carolyn Steel’s book, Sitopia, representation of the ideal’. A vast fresco, 20m or so in length, 111,000 give or take. The painting she’s it depicts the city of Siena on one side and the countryside on the showing me is Lorenzetti’s The Allegory other, with the overriding vision that the two are fundamentally of Good and Bad Government (1338-9), connected, the city wall acting as a membrane through which which hangs in Siena’s Palazzo Pubblico. all life ebbs and flows. There are huntsmen leaving the city, pigs While the going to market, urban flocks of image sheep, a woman with a chicken in beautifully sums up, in pictorial her arms… ‘It’s a partnership [of city form, the author’s utopian idea of a and country] and we’ve completely food ‘sitopia’ (from the Greek sitos, lost that idea,’ she explains. food + topos, place), we are here Carolyn’s passion for this picture to discuss her own magnum opus, is relevant because she’s not an written almost 700 years afterwards. author by trade. A CambridgeHigh up in her north London flat, educated architect with the London the bosky tree line of Regent’s firm Kilburn Nightingale, she says Park and the intervening urban it was never just buildings, with constructions serve as a comparable all their idiosyncratic vernacular, modern-day vista. that stirred her: ‘It became clear Sitopia was the only book I read that buildings per se weren’t that during lockdown, and I felt the spirit interesting to me – it was something of revolution course through me to do with them, but it took me 20 as I absorbed the depth and breadth years to work out that it was actually of ideas and research that had gone our relationship with them that into it. Despite this complexity, at the I was interested in.’ Probing further, end it all seemed so damn simple: it wasn’t just this either. Carolyn what we urgently need is to create (or eventually discovered that ‘life’ recreate) our concept of ‘a good life’. was her subject, and food – ‘which Carolyn Steel believes that if we base our What I wanted to hear from the is life because it’s the one single economy on food we’ll all be a lot better off horse’s mouth is what exactly – and thing that joins us all’ – became the practically – this means and how each lens through which she studied it. and every one of us can play our part here and now. So, while we No niche choice then. But it is here that Carolyn’s clarion call congenially ate asier (home-pickled Danish cucumbers grown on for a better way of living is crystallised. If food is life, then food Carolyn’s bijou balcony) with cheese and crackers, in reality I was is the most important thing there is. And if it’s the most vital attending a one-to-one lecture from the woman whose ideas every thing there is, it should be valued far higher. This, she argues, economist, farmer, politician, teacher, philosopher, architect – is where we are massively failing. The commodification of scratch that, every single person – should sit up and listen to. food (life) has led to its degradation, which in turn has led to

JULIE BROWN Founder of Growing Communities, Hackney – a community box scheme focussed on education and sustainable food models. ROBIN HARFORD Inspirational forager, educator and visionary.

PATRICK HOLDEN Organic farmer, founder of the Sustainable Food Trust and proponent of true cost accounting for food. SIMON FAIRLEIGH Dairy farmer and author of the best book I’ve read on the meat dilemma, ‘Meat, A Benign Extravagance’. JEANETTE ORREY The original dinner lady who has led the campaign for better food in schools. TRISTRAM STUART Pioneering food waste campaigner and author of self-explanatory book, ‘Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal’.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

CA ROLY N’S FOOD H E ROE S

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In the west we need to cut our meat consumption down by four-fiths, and the vegetables we grow should be organic

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R E A DING LIST

Carolyn’s recommendations for deeper understanding The Hidden Half of Nature

by David R. Montgomery and Anne Biklé A fascinating study of the living soil and its direct links to our health

Nature’s Metropolis

by William Cronon A brilliant description of the invention of industrial food in 19th-century Chicago

The Diet Myth

by Tim Spector The mythbusting truth about diet and health from the UK’s leading microbiome expert

Small is Beautiful

by E F Schumacher The most important book about economics ever written on why capitalism fails Food in History

by Reay Tannahill A colourful tour of global food cultures – the first book on food I ever read.

The Omnivore’s Dilemma

by Michael Pollan A forensic exposé of the modern US food industry

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

humanity’s dissatisfaction. A simple summation out of eating, so let that be your pleasure. Don’t perhaps, but read the book and you’ll see how complicate things.’ she gets there.

Yes, but what does this equate to in reality?

‘We’re living in the third century of the It means, according to Carolyn, putting food post-enlightenment, industrialised idea of first and foremost, taking inspiration from what a good life is – which is all about problemour dying tribes of hunter-gatherers. ‘This is solving: rationality, efficiency and making when humanity reached its apex,’ she says. ‘The stuff cheaper… and through that ideal we economy of the hunter-gatherer is a shared were supposed to get rich and happy. But it’s meal each day; food is the most precious thing a fantasy. It never did work. Yes, we’ve made and they share it round a fire, equitably. Our some material gains – but why do we never ask human needs for both nature and society are what we sacrificed for all that wealth creation?’ met.’ Of course, she’s not suggesting we all don Well, the answer to that question can range loincloths and start hunting round Hyde Park from sacrificing our health (diabetes, obesity, for fat pigeons to roast, but the hunter-gatherer heart disease, cancer) and wellbeing (anxiety, model answers our eternal question of how depression, tech addiction) to sacrificing our to live well by balancing our social needs with children and family (working such long hours our natural needs, something that modern and, pre-Covid at least, commuting between life and, in particular, city life, doesn’t offer. home and work) to quite literally sacrificing Fair enough, but still, for us, here and now? ourselves. Our obsession with accumulation, ‘OK, it means halving the amount of meat and production and ‘problem-solving’ has sent us dairy we consume globally, with a four-fifths charging into an ecological deficit, an imbalance reduction of consumption in the west. It means in which we have stopped living in harmony with halving food waste. It means using technology the earth that nourishes and feeds us – leaving well to balance our lives with nature and to us perilously close to being ejected from it create smarter food logistics, and it means as a result of climate change and its devastating eating better food. Better food is food – as Carlo effects, and through land so denuded it can’t Petrini, the founder of the International Slow produce food anymore – so that, in effect, Food Movement, says – that is good, clean and we can’t eat. Ergo, we can’t live. fair. “Good” means the landscape the food All of this, admittedly, I’m making in came from wasn’t denuded or destroyed to sweeping statements, paraphrasing vast swathes produce the food, which means regenerative of Sitopia, but the upside is that Carolyn believes farming practices; it means the animals weren’t we should all be optimistic and that coronavirus abused, they had a good life and a good death; could show us the way. ‘Covid is a onceit means the people who produced in-a-generation opportunity to the food were paid a decent wage rethink our idea of a good life,’ she and weren’t enslaved or quasisays. ‘So many people have been enslaved. “Clean” means working from home, not having non-polluting: you’re not to do the nightmarish fourchucking chemicals in rivers hour commute, crammed like that either poison them sardines on a train. They’re or create algae blooms spending more time with that suffocate the fish. their children, they’re “Fair” means that we’re growing their own food. I in this together. If I eat well know some people are suffering then you deserve to eat well massively, but for those who were too – an equitable system theoretically “winning” in the where people are treated with old system [house, family, job, dignity. My metaphor for garden], the vast majority are a good society is one in which saying, “I’m not going back everyone gets to eat well – to that, what were we doing? everything flows from that.’

This is much better.”’

Do we want a good society?

So what does ‘better’ look like Do we want to eat well? Do we and how can we get there? For want to survive? If the answer this, she calls on Epicurus. to those three questions ‘The secret to a good life is a resounding yes, then is to embrace necessity we want a revolution. and get pleasure out of it.

It begins here.

Epicurus had the right idea: Epicurus says you have to find pleasure in necessity to eat, and we’re naturally Sitopia by Carolyn Steel wired up to get pleasure (Penguin, £16.99) n 96 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | September/October 2020

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LIVING INTERIORS DESIGN

THE INSIDER

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ Until Covid-19 is but a distant dream, we’ll have to satisfy our wanderlust in other ways.

Reminiscent of the scorching climes of the US West Coast, the zingy hues of this Wes Andersonstyle bathroom are contrasted with Mandarin Stone’s Terrazzo Nouveau Ivory Matt and Norse Subway Terra Gloss tiles. Blooming with grapefruit pinks and zesty oranges, showering need never be boring again. mandarinstone.com

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THE INSIDER CANDY ALLSORTS ‘An optimistic and quirky version of our French Art de Vivre,’ is how Nicolas Roche describes Roche Bobois’ new collaboration with artist Joana Vasconcelos.

From £3,670. roche-bobois.com

RELEASE THE BEAST

Ardmore’s Cheetah Kings fabric in coral, linen or velvet.

From £305. colonyuk.com

I N T E R I O R S

DESIGN NOTES

The best of what’s new, now.

By Carole Annett

NEW FLAME London-based Issy Granger offers an eclectic mix of quirky and colourful homeware. Box of six candles in Marguerite pink, £26. issygranger.com

SHOW YOUR METAL

A profusion of olive, oak and beech foliage, illuminated with huge jute magnolia blooms. Magnolia chandelier, £62,400 and Dada sofa, £45,360. coxlondon.com

BE OUR GUEST

If you haven’t yet signed up to our new House Guest interiors newsletter, what are you waiting for? Stay in the interior design know, all from your phone, iPad or laptop. countryandtownhouse.co.uk/interiors

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STEPPING BACK Ben Pentreath’s Queen Square collection for Morris & Co features 18 fabrics and wallpapers.

‘I have always loved the designs of William Morris so it was wonderful to be let loose in the archive and present his original patterns in a palette of my favourite colours,’ says Ben. From £75. stylelibrary.com

DUAL PURPOSE WALL LIGHTS

WRITE STUFF

For stationery and beauty lovers: wooden Caran d’Ache pencils fragranced with Mizensir Alpine scents. £31.30. carandache.com

GARDEN ENVY A flurry of florals, including Jardine, Oleander, Mereworth and Olivia fabrics, from £85 p/m. colefax.com

SWITCH IT

MatchiMatchi, a series of modular lampshades for customising and adapting to your own taste.

There are 27 varieties in various shapes and colours, from £250. matchimatchi.com

CHECKER MOUNTAIN Barclay Butera Qatari velvet from Kravet’s Sagamore collection. £112.50 p/m. gpjbaker.com 1 Hooked wall light in graphite and brass, £342. busterandpunch.com 2 Flusso wall lamp, £1,416. castrolighting.com 3 Camille wall light, £535. andrewmartin.co.uk 4 Single-arm monocle wall sconce with mesh tube, £684. charlesedwards.com 6 Winthrop outdoor sconce, £805. arteriorshome.com 5 Ophelia wall light, £1,980. portaromana.com

HIP, HIP, HERMÈS Hippodrome d’Hermès coffee table in oak and bridle leather. £15,000. hermes.com September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 101

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THE INSIDER F O C U S

RECIPE FOR STYLE

A kitchen space offers the ideal opportunity to release some creative juice.

Here’s a few ideas to get it flowing

1 Artichoke took inspiration from the domestic wing at Lanhydrock House in Cornwall when designing this Victorian-inspired kitchen and cook’s table. From £120,000. artichoke-ltd.com 2 Bespoke kitchen design for a house in Notting Hill by Plain English. From £35,000. plainenglishdesign.co.uk 3 A luxe, modern look from Life Kitchens. From £25,000. life-kitchens.co.uk 4 Barbara Sallick is co-founder of Waterworks. This is her own kitchen taken from her book, The Perfect Kitchen (£40, Rizzoli). 5 In the new Officine Gullo collection, solid steel creates a slick, contemporary finish.

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COMPETITION

AUTUMN NIGHTS

Win a designer bedroom makeover courtesy of Yves Delorme

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s the leaves turn from green to gold to scarlet, and the evenings start to shorten, there’s nothing that feels as good as closing the curtains against the cold and snuggling under beautiful new linen.

And, of course, that linen just has to be Yves Delorme. The best of the best since 1845, the house makes homeware so irresistible that you simply won’t be able to wait to sink into it every night.

Leading its new season collection is the beautiful Bagatelle printed garden design, made up of camellias, dahlias and tiger tulips recreated in the amber, copper and nude hues that are synonymous with autumn. And, from the pillow cases to the duvet cover, the whole collection is crafted from 300 thread count, 100 per cent organic cotton sateen.

Really, there’s no better reason to celebrate the end of summer, and the start of autumn…

WIN, WIN, WIN! One lucky C&TH reader will win a Bagatelle bedroom makeover with Yves Delorme.

Enter for your chance to win two standard pillowcases worth £79 each, and one king-size duvet cover worth £349.

TO ENTER Visit countryandtown house.co.uk/ competitions and follow instructions.

The competition closes on 1 December 2020, terms and conditions apply.

uk.yvesdelorme.com; monogrammedlinenshop.com

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THE INSIDER C A S E

S T U D Y

SECRET SERVICE Meet Monsieur George, the latest masterpiece from Anouska Hempel. By Sofia Tindall

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magine a gentleman ‘of very elegant origins’, describes hotel designer and former actress Anouska Hempel. ‘He comes to lunch every day, rather like Clement Freud used to at the Wolseley.’ He is ‘particularly fond of a taste of Brie de Meaux with a shot of brandy and a cigar. The morning papers are scattered on a side table, the aroma of espresso comes from the bar, a madeleine sits waiting on a silver plate. He sets his hat upon a well-travelled crocodile notebook, and so his day begins…’ At first impression, she might be sketching the outline of a continental Agatha Christie detective. But this vision is actually the creative blueprint of the Monsieur George Hotel & Spa in Paris. A boutique hotel sequestered in a secret street away from the ChampsElysées, it’s the latest establishment to receive Hempel’s inimitable design touch (others include the Six Senses Duxton in Singapore, Santiago in Chile and Blakes in London and Amsterdam).

Labyrinthine, with just a hint of quasi-Gothic drama to it, the design dialogue is one that seamlessly knits together disparate styles to sensational effect. Like the jewel-box adorned bar, which is offset against the shadowy, bruised hues of the relatively restrained 46 bedrooms and three suites. ‘My imagination draws from my own inspiration that comes from beyond the shores of England. A Turkish palace on the Bosporus, and the designs of a new hotel in Rabat all played a part,’ says Hempel. ‘I also had Marrakech and the Sahara in my mind’s eye.’ Add to this a kaleidoscopic moodboard of materials: piled velvets, silk taffetas, braiding, mirrors, stone and marble tiles, hand-etched glass, chevron stencils, white chikankari cottons. Realised in the maze of rich bohemian colour woven through the hallways, restaurant and bar, they’ve succeeded in bringing to life the vision Hempel already experimented upon in Blakes London: a blend of the ‘moody and magical – a game of colours, églomisé mirrors, lush greenery and dark jade greens’.

While lockdown put the brakes temporarily on, with August arrived the opening of Monsieur George’s doors for discerning Europhiles to experience the design for themselves. ‘It’s a bit like an exhibition opening up again after it’s been away on tour,’ says Hempel. Now guests can finally appreciate the tiny details she’s lovingly woven in: dark green jasmine-scented candles, grosgrain ribbons running along the walls, glass lanterns hand-etched with grapes and, interestingly, hand-printed square stamps on the floors of the Chequers suites, named after the 16th-century country residence used by British Prime Ministers (especially beloved by Margaret Thatcher).

A jewel of the Monsieur George crown is the Marly suite and its luscious green private courtyard, echoing Louis XIV’s Marly gardens in Versailles and intertwining with the design of the hotel. ‘Emerald greens, jade greens, deep forest greens. Dark green is the spirit of where I live,’ Hempel reflects. ‘Behind a leaf. In a swimming pool in Jaipur – they are moments I remember from when I was very young.’

Enrapturing, enchanting and scintillating in equal measure: it’s debatable that one would check in to chez Monsieur George, and ever want to check out again. monsieurgeorge.com n September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 105

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THE INSIDER Mylands Stockwell Green paint, from £26 a litre. mylands.com

La Manufacture Cogolin Matignon Brume rug, £11,500. manufacturecogolin.com

Baobab Collection Vitrail Silver candle, £265. baobabcollection.com

Brokis Geometric glass pendants, £POA. brokis.cz

Connolly Vanta bowl by Joel Parkes, £5,500. connollyengland.com

T R E N D

Rockett St George Rock On coat hook, £100. rockettstgeorge.co.uk

ARTIST’S MUSE

Mind The Gap Coloured Geometry wallpaper, £175 per roll. mindtheg.com

Make your home your canvas, says Sofia Tindall

Raj Tent Club Silk Ikat 217 cushion, £90. rajtentclub.com

‘Life doesn’t imitate art, it imitates bad television,’ so Woody Allen pronounced. We’ve had enough of the latter during lockdown, so perhaps it’s time to embrace the former into your living spaces. Awaken the inner muse with frescoed porcelains, marbled lamps, bright pigments and jumbles of objets d’art.

Rose Uniacke Solid walnut side table, £2,460. roseuniacke.com

Jonathan Hansen x Marie Daage Ciels Bleus plate, £168. modaoperandi.com

Rosi de Ruig Modern Blue Floral shade, £75; base, £145. rosi-de-ruig.myshopify.com

Farrow & Ball Castle Gray paint, £49.95 for 2.5 litres. farrow-ball.com

Partnership Editions Corinthian Column in Red by Frances Costelloe, £320. partnership editions.com

Tom Faulkner Jak chair, from £800. tomfaulkner.co.uk

Addison Ross Turquoise lacquered scallop tray, £225. addisonross.com

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EAT DRINK ESCAPE

FOOD & TRAVEL C H I N A

RESTORATION STORY Stone by stone, the construction of Aman’s fourth hotel in China was quite an unprecedented undertaking, says Mary Lussiana

The story behind Amanyangyun’s construction is worthy of history books

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PHOTOS: AMAN GROUP

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little more than an hour away from the vibrant lights of downtown Shanghai, but a couple of dynasties away in terms of history and heritage, one of China’s most extraordinary preservation projects opened two years ago. Amanyangyun (yang yun translates as auspicious clouds), a member of the stellar Aman group and the fourth in China, is the work of a decade with a hero in the shape of Mr Ma, a Fuzhouborn philanthropist, and the desire on all sides to save for the future a slice of a China that existed in the Ming and Qing dynasties.

So far so, relatively, simple – restoration happens all over the world, albeit without the hindrance of a cultural revolution which destroyed in swathes so much of China’s rich heritage and the country’s artistic DNA – but into this story comes the need to move the entire village of 50 Qing and Ming dynasty villas and the 10,000 sacred camphor trees that surrounded them, some over a thousand years old, to another part of China. Their original setting in Fuzhou was threatened by the approval in 2002 of a much-needed reservoir that would have led to their being submerged by water.

Mr Ma, on a visit home saw the need to preserve the history that was about to vanish and decided to act.

The buildings were deconstructed stone by stone, the camphor trees had limbs removed (and even then, the largest involved removing a toll gate on the road in order to pass through) and for six nights and seven days the convoy travelled northwards from Fuzhou, in the cultural heartland of eastern China’s Jiangxi province, to the Minhang district in greater Shanghai.

The majority of trees survived, 13 of the villas have been painstakingly reconstructed and Kerry Hill Architects were called in to weave seamlessly among them a 21st-century hotel, whispering bamboo groves, courtyards with water features and a sensational spa to create Amanyangyun.

The extraordinary story of its preservation imbues the whole with a sense of history that the 24 newly built Ming Courtyard Suites do not dispel. Designed to fit within an antique context, Kerry Hill drew on black stone, Chinese cedar and Namu wood (an endangered wood that in ancient China only the imperial family had the right to use and which here has been recycled) as the main cornerstones of the design, to which have been added copper screens and wooden lattices. Tranquil interiors reflect trademark Aman minimalism with luxurious touches in the courtyards fitted with onsens, the vast bathrooms with his and hers vanity units at either side of the room and in the villas, the huge swimming pools and neighbouring jacuzzi. There is an Italian restaurant, Arva, where you should not miss the feather-light tiramisu; there is a Chinese restaurant, Lazu, which serves dishes inspired by the kitchen of the Jiangxi region (original home to the antique villas) such as melt-in-the-mouth

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xiaolongbao (steamed dumplings stuffed with pork) and crispy chicken with shaved garlic, and there is a Japanese restaurant offering the freshest of sashimi and delicately fragrant green tea ice cream. Then there is the spa.

An impressive 2,840 square metres, it has an outdoor and indoor pool, bathhouses with a Russian banya and a hammam, ten treatment rooms, a yoga and pilates studio and immersive spa journeys where a doctor in traditional oriental medicine will cure your ailments.

But perhaps the soul of Amanyangyun resides in Nan Shufang. The most beautiful of the re-assembled ancient villas, it’s named after the royal reading pavilion in the Forbidden City.

Here, and in classrooms adjoining it, the gentle art of calligraphy is taught, incense ceremonies and tea ceremonies are held and within these old walls the life that the Chinese literati once led can be experienced anew. So much more then than mere bricks, Amanyangyun offers a unique glimpse of a life that can only otherwise only be found between the covers of a book.

An hour or two from here lies a completely

Amanfayun deluxe villa

AMANYANGYUN IS THE WORK OF A DECADE TO SAVE FOR THE FUTURE A SLICE OF A CHINA THAT EXISTED IN THE MING AND QING DYNASTIES

different China but no less interesting for it. Amanfayun, on the outskirts of Hangzhou, famous for its West Lake, moon bridges and ancient culture, is an old tea picker’s village that was completely converted by the late, great, genius Jaya Ibrahim into a rustically beautiful 42-room hotel. Rooms are housed in wooden structures with stone Amanfayun Village room floors, dim lights wrought from chicken wire and a tangible feeling of stepping back into the past. A stone path runs through the village, passing the Tea House, (do buy the delicious, slightly nutty in taste, local green tea, known as dragon tea) the Steam House, the Spa pavilion and leading to Lingyin Si, one of the most important Buddhist temples in China, founded in 328 AD. Buddhist carvings dot the limestone cliffs opposite, including a laughing Buddha whose mood pretty much reflects the pleasure of staying here.

Preserving and restoring history is part of the story behind the creation of Aman’s fourth hotel in China, Amanyangyun

BOOK IT: Stays at Amanyangyun start from £569 per room per night including taxes and breakfast.Stays at Amanfayun start from £632 per night including taxes, breakfast and one way airport transfers. aman.com September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 111

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© Valérie Lade

High Society www.baobabcollection.com

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C&TH PARTNERSHIP

IT’S SWISS

TIME PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES

The British have always been enthralled by Switzerland and its epic outdoors, skiing its pristine mountains for decades.

Long may this most special of relationships continue

Located at the Glacier 3000, the Peak Walk by Tissot is the world’s only suspension bridge connecting two summits

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Aerial view of the majestic Matterhorn mountain

A THRILLSEEKER’S PARADISE

There is no better time than to make your way to the mountains safely this winter – you’ll find lungfuls of pure fresh air, outdoor pursuits aplenty and enjoy precious time together Alongside the record-breaking attempts came the healing powers of the Alps thanks to its pure and dry air. Patients with lung problems headed to the mountains. Leysin – now, a charming ski resort scattered with chalets – was home to many sanitoriums, thanks to its sunny climate and close proximity to Geneva. When the patients came, they embraced the joys of the snow. Toboggan runs, ice rinks and palatial hotels popped up.

People tried a new pastime – skiing.

In 1893, author Arthur Conan-Doyle took his family to Davos to find a high-altitude cure for his wife Louisa’s tuberculosis.

While there, he wrote about his experience of skiing which catapulted the sport into the public eye. He even killed off his beloved Sherlock Holmes at Reichenbach Waterfalls in the Bernese Oberland. Under pressure from fans, Conan-Doyle miraculously resurrected his detective but thousands of Brits still wanted to see the Falls. They remain a dazzling sight today – with the powerful water plummeting 250m to the ground with a deafening roar.

Switzerland’s snowy playground continued to develop. By now, the tourists were coming in droves – helped by the newly-

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; C.RACAT

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ith majestic mountains, glistening glaciers and powder-dusted Alpine forests, Switzerland is like a fairytale come true. Then there’s the resorts – some of Europe’s biggest and best – with spanking new panoramic cable cars, fast chair lifts and picturesque train routes. The apres-ski scene is picture perfect, too – sporting a whole array of treats, from buzzing cocktail bars to mountain view spas. The food is as sublime as its surroundings, with Michelin-starred fare in glitzy hotels to gooey raclette in tiny slopeside mountain huts. But, perhaps the biggest accolade of all is that it was here, in this land, that winter tourism was born.

In the mid-1800s, the snow-covered Alps were mainly unexplored. However, in 1854 Alfred Wills scaled the Wetterhorn and 1865 saw Edward Whymper’s ascent of Matterhorn. Both climbers were English – and soon more adventurers followed. The Alpine Club, the world's first mountaineering club, was also founded in 1857 in London – and still runs today, organising expeditions across the Alps.

Queen Victoria was so inspired that she spent her holiday in 1868 in Switzerland.

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C&TH PARTNERSHIP

built mountain train lines. In 1936, the first ski lift was built in Villars. This was a first in Switzerland, and skiers had to fasten themselves on with a large leather belt in order to go back up the mountain. In 1938, Villars was classified as one of Europe’s top skiing resorts – and Villars has never looked back.

Set in the canton of Vaud, known as the Lake Geneva Region, Villars is interlinked with Gryon and Les Diablerets resorts, creating an exceptional trio – and an abundance of winter fun. The region’s highest point, Glacier 3000, completes this paradise, packed with activities: cross-country skiing, winter hiking, tobogganing and dog-sledding. Families are brilliantly catered for, right down to the snowshoeing trails complete with buggy tracks. Elsewhere in the canton of Vaud, the cities – particularly Lausanne and Montreux – are super stylish filled with Christmas markets, famous faces and world-class restaurants.

The Portes du Soleil is another unmissable spot. The largest linked international ski area in the world, there are more than 286 ski slopes covering 600 km of terrain. But this is just the beginning. There are 150 km of snowshoe trails to explore still frozen landscapes, far from the madding crowds, alongside crosscountry skiing, revitalising winter hikes, ice climbing and more.

The slopeside action continues in neighbouring canton of Bern but nature is also the big thing here. Sparkling between mountains, Interlaken’s emerald-coloured Lake Thun and Lake Brienz are mind-blowing – and an adventure on the water is a must. Meanwhile the Jungfrau Region, with the backdrop of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, offers skiers and snowboarders everything their hearts desire. Then there’s Gstaad whose glamour proceeds it. However, there is outstanding hiking, mountain biking and skiing on silk-smooth slopes, cementing the resort as one of Switzerland’s top winter destinations.

Arosa Lenzerheide is not far behind and fast rivalling the big names. With the area in Arosa and another two sides of the valley in Lenzerheide, guests today have more than 225 km of groomed pistes up to 2,865m above sea level and 42 transport facilities at their disposal. Arosa and Lenzerheide also hit the headlines after the opening of a spectacular aerial cableway connected these two Swiss mountain villages.

While these resorts soar as skiing hotspots, Switzerland’s heritage remains equally important. In 2014, the country toasted 150 years of winter tourism – and, as the next season approaches, there continues to be plenty to celebrate.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES; C.RACAT

Les Diablerets at night

Snowshoeing fun

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NOW AND THEN

Taking a look at the slopes of Switzerland past and present

The canton of Valais has many strings to its bow – including the invention of raclette (thought to be more than 400 years old). It is also where the second Alpine railway line was opened under the Simplon Pass in 1906, connecting Brig in the canton of Valais with Domodossola in Piedmont (Italy). One of the most stunning parts is the Dents du Midi mountain chain, which has inspired many painters and writers, such as Victor Hugo, who liked to stay in Champéry. In 1963, the Région Dents du Midi hosted the first-ever mountain foot race – today regarded as one of the finest walking trails in the Alps.

Arosa Lenzerheide Arosa Lenzerheide was created in 2014 when Lenzerheide was connected to nearby Arosa by a new gondola.

However, its history of winter sports goes right back to the 19th century. It was the opening of the road from Langwies to Arosa in 1890 which catapulted Arosa – almost overnight – into a tourist destination. Entire families started to arrive to try this new pastime – skiing. The resort had its first three ski lifts in place before the Second World War. The health spas were swiftly transformed into hotels.

Since then, the area hasn’t looked back – and the 2014 development cemented Arosa Lenzerheide as a top familyfriendly ski resort.

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PHOTOS: VISIT SWITZERLAND; VALAIS/WALLIS PROMOTION-DAVID CARLIER; GETTY IMAGES

Valais

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Grindelwald, Jungfrau Region Nestled in the mountains of the Bernese Oberland, Grindelwald, with its wonderful panorama and glaciers leading up into the valley basin, has always drawn a crowd.

Alongside conquering the slopes, people loved skijoring in which a person on skis is pulled by a horse. It was the Jungfraubahn cog railway which powered the Jungfrau Region into a winter sports fantasy. The building of the railway tunnel took 16 years and the summit station was not opened before 1912 – but it was worth it. The Jungfrau Region was soon stamped as one of the best areas to ski in the Alps and remains so today.

Aletsch Arena

PHOTOS: VISIT SWITZERLAND; VALAIS/WALLIS PROMOTION-DAVID CARLIER; GETTY IMAGES

Climbers first came to the Canton of Valais’ Aletsch Arena in the mid 19th century. Brits in particular loved this scenic area. Banker Sir Ernest Cassel even built the mountaintop Villa Cassel (closed in winter) here in 1902 where he hosted Winston Churchill. In the meantime, tourism continued to grow and the Aletsch Arena soon became a popular winter destination.

Fast forward to 2001, and the whole region – including the Great Aletsch Glacier – was named as the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Alps. Today, Aletsch Arena remains as glorious as ever, a paradise for skiers and snowboarders.

SWITZERLAND TRAVEL CENTRE The largest tour operator for holidays in Switzerland, hot foot it here to plan your perfect escape DESTINATIONS All of the country’s best spots (and more) can be found here, with highlights such as the Lake Geneva Region including the activity-packed Glacier 3000.

WHERE TO STAY You want it, they’ve got it – be it a fabulous grande dame, a blissful spa escape or a super apartment to make your own.

HOLIDAY TYPES Perfect for skiers and nonskiers alike, there’s an unrivalled range to choose from – picture adventures on the slopes, culinary escapes, fabulous city breaks and much, much more.

Mürren, Jungfrau Region Mürren in the Bernese Oberland started off life as a farming village. The first British winter tourists arrived in 1911. During the First World War, wounded prisoners of war stayed here pending repatriation and helped develop winter sports. In 1924, Sir Arnold Lunn and eight fellow Englishmen founded the Kandahar Ski Club, today Britain’s oldest and most prestigious ski club. A few years later, the Inferno Race was launched and continues to this day. It is the longest and largest amateur ski race in the world – and confirmed Mürren’s position as a ski destination to be reckoned with.

TOURS Pick from a never-ending list which includes scenic rail journeys, self-drive adventures, themed holidays and escorted tours. The Magical Moments rail journey is spectacular, taking in the stunning resorts of Interlaken and Lucerne.

SWISS TRAVEL PASS A brilliant way to explore the country, this travel pass sorts out your transport in one fell swoop, giving unlimited travel in Switzerland by train, bus and public transport. From £205. +44 (0)20 7420 4934; switzerlandtravelcentre.com

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WHEN IN THE MOUNTAINS...

Ski, eat, drink, sleep, repeat in the majestic Swiss Alps

Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa

LAKE GENEVA REGION A S K Y - H I G H S E N S AT I O N

EAT

Start the day with a fabulous peak brunch at Botta Restaurant, on the edge of the Glacier des Diablerets, the highest point in the region. Roll on lunch – Restaurant du Lac, on the Bretaye runs, which has been feeding skiers since 1870, serves the best burger. Back in the resort, Villars-surOllon’s L'Alchimiste’s beef tartare is the stuff of legend.

The ski-in, ski-out Chalet RoyAlp Hôtel & Spa in Villars-sur-Ollon is the big hitter, contemporary, massive and great for families. The hotel’s Michelin-starred Le Jardin des Alpes is excellent, too. For something smaller, feel at home at the charmingly refurnished Les Mazots du Clos, bang in the centre of Villars, with a tranquil spa.

Whizz up to Glacier 3000 which has everything from cross-counting skiing to dog-sledding to hiking. Then there’s Villars (with its own cog railway), Gryon and Les Diablerets resorts – a snowy playground with a variety of phenomenal slopes and the snowshoeing is awesome, too.

Advanced skiers will love the buckets of untouched powder.

Off the beaten track, Plans-sur-Bex is fantastic for cross-country skiing.

SLEEP

Botta 3000 Restaurant du Lac

DO

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

THE SLOPES BY RAIL PHOTO: © LITESCAPE MEDIA

A great feat of engineering, a train journey through the mountains is as breathtaking as the pistes themselves – take in plunging canyons, frozen waterfalls, powderdusted forests and charming mountain villages. The top route is Villars-Bretaye, which goes through spectacular Alpine valleys – and takes you straight to the ski area.

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BERNESE OBERLAND A N AT U R A L N I R V A N A

EAT

Swing by the Hotel Alpenhof in Grindelwald for the best fondue you’ve ever had. Or, refuel at Le Refuge l’espace, one of the finest lunch spots on the mountain. For all-out Michelin dining, Gstaad’s Le Grand Bellevue has too many stars to count or tuck into hearty fare in their charming log cabin Le Petit Chalet.

There are some smashing grande dames: VictoriaJungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa, a 19th-century Belle Époque beauty in Interlaken or treat yourself to the achingly glamorous Gstaad Palace. The glittering Alpina Gstaad is top dollar, too, with a Six Senses spa (book the tension soother massage).

For unbelievable scenery, head to Interlaken. The skiing is wonderful – but so is turquoise Lake Brienz, clear-asglass and flanked by majestic peaks.

Neighbouring Jungfrau Region is peak perfect, too, and the backdrop of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau is a skier’s haven – or lap up the landscape on a magical winter hike. Then there’s Gstaad, the darling of the Alps, whose grandeur and well-groomed slopes are a Mecca for the great and the good.

Try the two-hour full moon hike to the Chasseral.

SLEEP

Hotel Alpenhof Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel and Spa

DO

Jungfrau

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

VALAIS

Région Dents du Midi

A FEAST OF FUN

EAT

With a food scene as brilliant as its slopes, you won’t go hungry in Valais. Raclette is said to be invented here – try it at former cowshed Chüestall near Riederalp’s Blue Lake. For further traditional bites, keep a look out for Saveurs du Valais restaurants which focus on the region’s specialities including excellent wines – Nendaz’s Restaurant du Sapin Blanc is a great spot, known for its Valaisanne plate (a delicious selection of local meat and cheeses).

Vintage wins through with Hotel National Resort & Spa, Champéry, a charming boutique hotel, established in 1896, with its own spa. For proper ski-in, ski-out, plump for spacious Hotel L’Etable, with 17 elegant Alpine-style rooms.

Région Dents du Midi and Portes du Soleil are the big draw here for ski enthusiasts. One of the world’s largest ski resorts, gear up for 194 ski lifts, 90 mountain restaurants and more than 600 km ski slopes between Switzerland and France. Families should make their way to Aletsch Arena or delightful Nendaz – both outstanding spots for little ones.

Put your skates on and enjoy the natural ice rink in Bettmeralp.

SLEEP

DO

PHOTO: © LITESCAPE MEDIA

Hotel L'Etable

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

SWISS, the ‘Skiers’ Airline’, offers multiple daily flights from the UK and Ireland to Zurich and Geneva. Ski equipment is transported free of charge in addition to your standard baggage allowance. They will also transport your baggage directly to the railway station. +44 345 601 09 56; swiss.com September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 119

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Marvel at the magic of Christmas at Montreux Market

SWISS STYLE

Influencer and photographer Nicole Hunziker shares her favourite places in the canton of Bern

The cities of Montreux and Lausanne on the shores of Lake Geneva are worth a visit in their own right

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The Montreux Riviera Swiss Snow School

Open since 1979, this ski school has a terrific load of opportunities. The philosophy is Safety-Fun-Performance – and the instructors here achieve just that. Pick from group lessons for kids, private classes for all ages or the super-personalised Carte Blanche service, where everything is arranged, from transport to equipment to restaurant bookings. ecoleskimontreux.ch

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The lantern trail of Les Pléiades

A short train ride from Montreux, explore the snowy magic of Les Pléiades resort at night. Warm yourself with a glass of mulled wine before taking in the silence, the cold and the calm as you snowshoe your way around the lantern-lit path. It's an easy trail – and great fun for all the family.

Finish with fondue at restaurant des Pléiades. lake-geneva-region.ch/en/P55801/chemin-deslanternes-aux-pleiades

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Montreux Christmas Market

Having recently celebrated 25 years last winter, Montreux has one of the largest Christmas markets in Switzerland with a whopping 170 stalls. Visit Santa’s workshop perched atop the Rochers-de-Naye mountain before watching the elves at work in the Village des Lutins. 25 November to 24 December 2020. montreuxnoel.com

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Lausanne Festival of Lights

Soak up the magic of Lausanne at Christmas and follow the path of luminious sculptures lighting up the city. Created by 15 contemporary artists, it’s an inventive take on Christmas lights – and also the perfect chance to do some latenight Christmas shopping. 19 November to 31 December 2020. lake-geneva-region.ch

For a drink, I go to the Start Bar on top of Lauberhorn with the view over the Bernese Alps.

I love the walking trails around Grindelwald-First-Bussalp because you can hike up, then sledge down.

I have just discovered Hotel Aspen in the Bernese Alps.

I love ski-in and ski-out hotels.

It is just above Grindelwald right next to the slope from Kleine Scheidegg. I love the location, the great hospitality and the good food. There’s also a lovely little après-ski terrace and I love to relax in the jacuzzi at the foot of the famous Eiger mountain.

Bô Noël, Lausanne

Lausanne’s Christmas market has something for everyone. Place Pépinet is a must-visit for local produce while oenophiles will love Bô Caveau, which brings together the region’s winegrowers. Little ones can be kept busy with the children’s village.

25 November to 31 December 2020. bo-noel.ch

My favourite restaurants are Restaurant Waldspitz and Rasthysi in Grindelwald – two hidden gems in the mountains.

In winter, you can reach them either by foot or with your sledge. I also love Restaurant Eigernordwand on Kleine Scheidegg, above Grindelwald and Wengen. It's brilliant for lunch and has recently been renovated – the view on the terrace is incredible. I like traditional dishes such as Swiss Cheese Fondue or Rösti.

Lausanne Festival of Lights

@nicolehunziker

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

BRIGHT LIGHTS

My number one ski resort is Grindelwald: Männlichen/ Kleine Scheidegg Area then Saanenmöser or Adelboden.

As a child, I learnt to ski in Saanenmöser and I’m still in love with the slopes there.

I have a lot of good memories.

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Warm up in the largest thermal bath spa in the Alps

DO SOMETHING NEW THIS WINTER From skijoring to sleeping under ice, the Swiss Alps offers it all

Ski for the first time When it comes to first-timer skiing, you’re spoilt for choice in the Alps. Look for a resort which has a good amount of green and easy blue runs – Villars is a great bet with excellent ski schools, lots of easy runs and a relaxed atmosphere. Then book a lesson or two at one of the many ski schools – Swiss Ski School Villars is excellent. Just make sure you’re fully kitted-out beforehand – layers is the big thing and jeans are a definite no. Bring goggles, too – sunglasses break easily. But, most importantly, take your time to find the perfect ski boot – just don’t be tempted to go up a size as they need to be tight to support your ankles.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

Jump in a thermal spring Perhaps one of the last things you’d expect – but swimming in a frozen landscape should not to be missed. Follow in the footsteps of the old mule track from Sunnbüehl above Kandersteg to the Gemmi Pass which, in the Middle Ages, was one of the most important links for trade and travellers between the Bernese Oberland and Valais. With a bit of luck, you might even spot a bearded vulture flying overhead as you cross the pass. Finish by resting your weary bones in the thermal baths at Leukerbad, the largest thermal spa resort in the Alps.

Go ski-touring Nestled on the French-Swiss border, Morgins’ unspoilt surroundings, marked by lakes and forest, is the ideal place to get to grips with ski-touring. The Rando-Parc powered by Movement

Skis in the Portes du Soleil area offers touring tracks aimed at skiers of all abilities with one black, two blue and three red trails. With an average of 600m height difference, the tours take between an hour and a half and three hours and offer the perfect opportunity to admire the snowy scenery including magnificent views of the Dents du Midi mountains.

Get behind a horse On the plateau of Frience in Gryon, add an extra shot of adrenaline into your skiing with this thrilling-yet-safe sport. Originated in the Arctic, skijoring is a type of winter sport where a skier is pulled by a horse on a rope. It is derived from the Norwegian word skikjøring, meaning ‘ski driving’ – and is perfect for all skiing abilities, right down to a total beginner. And, while extreme skijoring does exist, the speed here is suitably leisurely so you can lap up the spectacular views as you cruise along.

Overnight in an igloo For a serious bucket list experience, book a night or two in an igloo at Hotel Kemmeriboden-Bad in the canton of Bern. A romantic weekend for two, an escape from the daily grind, or simply the chance to bag some bragging rights, it’s the stuff of fantasy. Tuck into a traditional cheese fondue in the restaurant while your beds are warmed with hot water bottles. Before you crawl under your delicious sheepskins, finish the night by going for a moonlit snowshoe walk before relaxing in the sauna. Wake up the next morning to a massive breakfast buffet, stacked high with everything you could possibly want. kemmeriboden.ch

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BRING THE WHOLE FAMILY Everyone is welcome at these Swiss hotel stars

Gstaad Palace Gstaad, with its safe ski slopes, learning parks and free cable cars for under nines, has always been a child’s dream. This fairytale palace, towering above the resort, takes it one step further. An heirloom of hospitality since 1913, the grande dame has hosted the same families for generations alongside the likes of Louis Armstrong, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.

The alpine glamour continues today with lavish interiors, immaculate service and serious cooking.

The 90 rooms are suitably grand with exquisite fabrics, embroidered cushions and Victorian prints.

In summer, families should experience a stay at the Walig Hut – an 18th-century mountain hut with breathtaking views (ask hut manager Maurizio to take the kids foraging). During the day, nearby lifts offer easy access to over 125 miles of mixed ability slopes. Back at base, the kids programme is packed full of treats. Children sorted, soothe post-piste aches in the spectacular spa. Having tucked the munchkins up in bed (the Palace can magic up a babysitter), head to one of the four restaurants – La Fromagerie, (for a sublime truffle fondue), Le Grill, Gildo’s Restaurante or Le Grand Restaurante & La Grande Terrace. Finish the evening in the hotel’s glittery nightclub GreenGo, cracking out moves to the beats of world-famous DJs. palace.ch

▼ BEST OF THE REST

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HOTEL LE GRAND CHALET, Leysin

Set in a quiet forest in the hills of Leysin, this family-run hotel is a hop, skip and a jump from the slopes. The family suites are super cosy with spectacular views. Staff are naturals with kids. After a day cruising the runs, leave your brood in the playroom as you wind down in the hot tub overlooking the mountains. Or book an Ayurvedic massage in the serene spa (there are kids treatments, too). The restaurant dishes up regional specialities. Stop by the Karibou bar beforehand – there's a special area for little ones while grown-ups can kick back beside the fire. grand-chalet.ch

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HOTEL NENDAZ 4 VALLÉES & SPA, Nendaz

One of Valais’ eight family destination resorts, Nendaz is just the ticket for sorting out the energy levels of children. Couple that with the region’s massive bonuses of fun-filled snow playgrounds and kids’ freestyle courses. Chic 62-room Hotel Nendaz 4 Vallées & Spa, dead centre of the resort, slips right in. Mezzanine suites are available for families – and there’s a fantastic spa (complete with child pool) where kids are welcome. The relaxed Carnotzet l’Aigle is ideal for a family dinner (order the Raclette du Valais AOP). hotelnendaz4vallees.ch

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12 HOURS ON THE SLOPES WITH ROMAIN DÉTRAZ One of the world’s top 20 ski cross athletes, Romain Détraz gives the inside track on his day as he prepares for the Winter Olympics in 2022

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I live in Gryon which is beautiful and surrounded by mountains.

It’s great for families here with loads of things to do. After a bowl of cereal, I wake up my body with some mobility exercises such as arm rotations, leg lifts and lunges.

After lunch, I go to Les Diablerets. There is a wonderful track named La Jorasse which was totally rebuilt for the 2020 Youth Olympic Games.

Lined with trees, it is now perfect with wide, pretty steep tracks and beautiful curves.

I ski to the Barboleuse-Les Chaux gondola which takes you right into the slopes. I get there early so I can enjoy doing some tracks in solitude.

You also get the fresh snow all to yourself.

I stop for a hot chocolate at Jimmy’s Bar, on top of the snow park in Villars. They have a good terrace where you can soak up the sun. Lunch is fun here, too – you can buy your meat at the bar and grill it yourself on the barbecue.

I do two or three long runs on Barboleuse. I like long descents – they allow you more time on the slopes and less queuing for lifts plus they start high so you have awesome views. Then I cross to Villars which has really wide slopes. There is a really fun ski cross track with banked turns, bumps and jumps. You have to try it.

The ski slopes close at 4.45pm but I go down earlier. It’s a long day when you begin at 9am. I ski back to my chalet for a well-deserved cup of tea.

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I like to go out for supper at Pizzeria L’Escale at the bottom of the slopes. There’s a big menu – Mexican, Asian and Italian, but I’m into the pizza.

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I like to go to L’Etable for lunch, which is in converted stables. It’s French-Swiss food. I love the homemade pies but they serve great cheese plates and the mushroom casserole is meant to be amazing.

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VALBELLA RESORT, Valbella

With LEGO as the hotel’s main investor, it’s unsurprising that kids have the time of their lives here. Sitting on the peaceful slopes of the Lenzerheide valley, it’s an elegant mix of Alpine meets Scandinavian design. But the real wow is the two giant LEGO indoor children’s areas.

Then there’s the family suites in the recently-opened Tgiasa Fastatsch with separate children's bedrooms and gorgeous sheepskin-covered rocking chairs. The in-room melamine kids' crockery is spot-on, too, although don’t miss the 12-hour ribs in Fastatsch restaurant. valbellaresort.ch

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Afterwards, we head to Villars which is a fun place to party. I like El Gringo which is always buzzing and great for dancing until the early hours.

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BOUTIQUE HOTEL GLACIER, Grindelwald

With mesmerising views of the Bernese Alps, the setting of this design-led hotel will stop even the youngest of your troops in their tracks. Then there’s the massive outdoor playground which is always a big hit, too. Inside, young owners Justine and Jan have done an excellent job. The colourful interiors have been cleverly designed alongside fun touches such as lights akin to icicles. The suites are big enough to house a family – and complimentary cots are available. A blissful spa and excellent seasonal-led restaurant tops it all off. hotel-glacier.ch

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Winter kayaking on Lake Brienz

Escape the pistes and discover the glories of Lake Brienz.

Surrounded by snowcovered mountains, the winter months offer some of the most breathtaking views of these Alpine waters – and, even better, you have this turquoise lake all to yourself. Out on the water, total tranquillity reigns as you gaze at the dramatic peaks all around, reflected in the mirror-like water, passing towering cliffs, hidden beaches and ancient castles.

TOP TEN UNMISSABLE ADVENTURES Snow doesn't just mean skiing, test your mettle with other exhilarating activities too

Be it a simple half-day hike or a day-long adventure, get off the beaten track and be at one with nature.

Some of the most beautiful snowshoeing trails can be found here – choose the Champéry to Sous-Scex trail, which takes you through peaceful alpine woodland and along the banks of the rushing Vièze River.

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Fat-biking in Aletsch Arena

A relatively new sport – but a seriously fun one – you’ll soon find yourself addicted to the adrenalin of fat-biking. There’s no better place to give it a shot than the Aletsch Arena with its pitch perfect snow. Plump for the 13km sledge run from Fiescheralp down to Lax with views of the magnificent mountain panorama before a romantic finish through snow-covered woods that end just above Lax.

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Dog-sledding in Glacier 3000

It’s hard to get more magical than dog-sledding – particularly in the exceptional setting of Glacier 3000. Begin by watching the pack of Huskies play in the snow – a joyous sight – before settling down cosily in your sled. Then let yourself be whisked through the beautiful glacier landscape – just like your own Narnia – as the dogs dash enthusiastically along the icy trails, piercing the vast expanse of eternal snow. One for the bucket list.

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Tiger Run in Gstaad

The steepest slope in Gstaad, this 2.5km long black section on the Wasserngrat will get your heart racing with an average gradient of 45 degrees. If that’s not enough, set out at the region’s longest slope which starts on La Videmanette and sees a super fun descent of 1,160m down to the valley.

Along the way, recharge your batteries at the Buvette de Rubloz restaurant.

PHOTOS: VISIT SWITZERLAND; GETTY IMAGES

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Snowshoeing in Région Dents du Midi

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6

Cheese-shopping in a weekly market

Take a morning off from the slopes and indulge in a spot of shopping at one of the magical weekly markets.

While every corner will be overflowing with treats, don’t miss the cheese makers with their stalls stacked high with wheels of cheese. Switzerland has 700 varieties of cheese – and each one is unique. Highlights include the world-famous Emmentaler, smooth, soft Vacherin Mont d’Or (pictured) and spicy Appenzeller. Or there’s the tangy Sbrinz, aromatic Le Gruyère and Tête de Moine, which can be shaved into ornate rosettes. A mind-boggling choice but well worth the investment.

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Winter hiking in Mürren

Immerse yourself in the snowy Jungfrau Region and experience winter up close and personal.

There’s nothing quite like hearing the scrunch of fresh snow under-foot while being surrounded by dazzling scenery. Hiking trails abound – start in the idyllic village of Mürren before ascending through the snow-covered forest to Gimmeln, then revel in the mesmerising panorama of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, as you make your way to the finish at Schilgrat.

Sledging in Les Diablerets

Whizz down one of Switzerland’s longest sledge run with an exhilarating 30-minute ride between Les Mazots and Les Diablerets. Little ones can get in on the action, too, learning to sledge in the Fun Park, at the bottom of the Le Meilleret ski area. Once the kids are tucked up in bed, grab your headtorch and try your hand at night sledging when, three nights a week, the run is open after dark.

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Free-riding the Parpan Rothorn

One of the best-known freeride mountains of the region, the Parpan Rothorn is as thrilling as you can get. The couloirs are hardcore (narrow, steep and rocky, covered in deep snow) – but the mountain views are unbeatable. Take a break in the Rothorngipfel panoramic restaurant which serves fine Grison specialties. Push yourself further by going off-piste with a Skisafari between Arosa, Lenzerheide and Tschiertschen.

PHOTOS: VISIT SWITZERLAND; GETTY IMAGES

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The Peak Walk by Tissot

Packed with thrills, the awe-inspiring Glacier 3000 leaves you spoilt for choice. The Peak Walk by Tissot – the only walkway in the world linking two peaks – is a great (nail-biting) way to start. Overlooking the glacier of Les Diablerets, hold your breath for over 107 metres, before you reach the summit of Scex Rouge. Savour your victory over the void while taking in phenomenal views of the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and Jungfrau.

To book any of these activities, contact the Switzerland Travel Centre, the largest tour operator for holidays to Switzerland. +44 (0)20 7420 4934; switzerlandtravelcentre.com

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VILLAS

PRIVATE PARTS

PRICES ARE PER NIGHT ONLY UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. PHOTOS: CROOKES AND JACKSON

Keep yourselves to yourselves with our pick of the villa pack Eagle’s Nest, Koh Yao Noi, Thailand Yao Noi is one of Thailand’s most unspoilt and idyllic islands, located halfway between Phuket and Krabi and reached only by boat. Tucked into the lush coastal hillside, Eagle’s Nest is a newcomer to the private rental market here and offers four modern, stylish suites all airy and light-filled with drop-dead gorgeous views over the mesmeric, limestone karst islands that loom – some like tumescent-bellied women, others like ancient, topheavy high-rises – out of the Andaman sea. The gong for best viewing area, though, goes to the 15-metre infinity pool. Days are spent on, in or by the water – kayaking, diving, snorkelling, boat-tripping to remote islands or perhaps an hour of beachside yoga. Retreat for home-cooked meals, siestas in one of the shady seating areas and a chance to enjoy coveted isolation in your own jungly paradise. A local couple attend to your every whim, allowing you to concentrate on friends, family and, shhhhh… even just yourself.

BOOK IT: Sleeps eight. From US$750 (approx. £568 per night) in low season plus taxes and charges, for exclusive use of villa/facilities. eaglesnestluxuryvilla.com 126 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | September/October 2020

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FOOD & TRAVEL

Villa Apasa, Corfu, Greece From your arrival by boat to the glass-walled lift that glides you from clifftop to sea level, Villa Apasa, set on a 9000 sq/m clifftop site, offers a real taste of paradise. The dramatic entrance leads you into a vast sitting room, past a grand piano, and smack bang into the most breathtaking view: east to the coast and mountains of Albania, south to mainland Greece and the islands of the Ionian. The unreal shimmer of blue sea isn’t the only water to marvel at – sleek swimming pools sparkle on white stone terraces, the upper pool trickling into a lower one via a four-level waterfall. Bedrooms have at least one glass wall, plus their own unexpected features, like a landscaped garden with a jacuzzi and marble steps leading to a sunken double bath. Chef Veronica Drysdale wows with seasonal, fresh food and a discreet staff keeps everything running smoothly, so you can sit back and relax.

BOOK IT: Sleeps 12. Price on request. villacollective.com

PRICES ARE PER NIGHT ONLY UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. PHOTOS: CROOKES AND JACKSON

Arijiju, Kenya Humming with birdsong and throbbing with wildlife, the vaulted archways, stone passageways and scented courtyards of Arijiju house are a sanctuary for soul seekers and design fanatics alike. Crouching under the watchful gaze of Mount Kenya, the flat grass roof and rough-hewn stone disguise this exceptional house. Spread out across five suites – there is no short straw – see out the press of the heat in the cinema or library, or sling a gin poolside while you watch elephants taking a drink. Slink into the cool, thatched spa where Frida prepares oils and scrubs by hand. Lie in savasana on the canopy-level yoga deck as lions call in the valley below. You’ll have to get out to explore the conservancy on game drives, horseback adventures or, better yet, a tracked running safari. Return to a lit fire and the bath drawn in your room.

BOOK IT: Sleeps six. From US$9,000 (approx. £6,800) per night, including transfers, spa access and game drives. Kenya Airways flies from London from £551 return. arijiju.com

Bibury Farm Barns, Gloucestershire A pitch perfect collection of converted barns situated just outside one of the prettiest Cotwolds villages in Britain – all babbling brooks and rambling roses. There are great pubs within walking distance, little antique shops and posh organic farms nearby, but to be honest it's hard to leave the superb comfort. Five neutral but cosy barns sleep up to 40 people for big shindig affairs, with plenty of outdoor spaces as well as hot tubs. Equally, single families can take their pick of just one of the properties, which are so spacious you’ll be none the wiser even if the other barns are occupied.

Inside, the lovely thing is there are enough sitting rooms for children to hole up in one while the adults claim another (with wood-burning stove), plus a few touches of romance: freestanding bathtubs, 100 Acres products (organic and botanical) and beds that feel like you're sleeping on a cloud. What a fresh new find.

BOOK IT: Cart Shed (sleeps six) from £525 per night. biburyfarm.co September/October 2020 | COUNTRYANDTOWNHOUSE.CO.UK | 127

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Brookdale Estate, Western Cape, South Africa There is only one proviso when you stay at Brookdale Estate, a new private manor house and vineyard set in the foothills of the Klein Drakenstein Mountains in South Africa’s lush Paarl Valley. And that is to treat the place – all 80 hectares of it – like it’s your own, whether exploring the indigenous fynbos trails, joining in the harvest or simply relaxing by the freshwater swimming pool. With your own private cellar, there’s literally wine on tap, including Brookdale’s first Chenin Blanc vintage and a very smooth Syrah – plus the estate’s vivacious young winemaker Kiara Scott will treat you to an exclusive wine tasting. Designed in original Cape Dutch style, the spacious fivebedroom manor house features gently rounded gables, whitewashed walls and thatched roofing. The H-shaped interior is a study in elegant simplicity with two chic sitting rooms in cool colour palettes, formal dining room, breakfast room and library leading from the central vestibule, complete with sweeping staircase and a welcome breeze at either end. You’ll enjoy delicious ‘refined home cooking’ by resident chef Sue-Ann Allen, a former MasterChef South Africa runner-up, whose menus are inspired by the estate’s organic kitchen garden. Meantime, a butler and housekeeper are on hand to attend to your every need, including serving signature Brookdale gin cocktails at sunset while you watch the ancient granite mountains turn from vivid orange to hazy pink and purple in a thrilling natural light show.

BOOK IT: Sleeps ten. From R90,000 (approx. £4,230) per night, all inclusive. Minimum of seven nights. brookdale-estate.com

If your brood is particularly rambunctious, you can truly relax here: there is nobody within earshot. There are very few corners of Europe as deliciously untouched as this corner of Italy, and it’s twice as private if you’re staying on a severalthousand-hectare private estate that’s been owned by the same family since the 13th century. Owner Carlotta has lent her incredibly chic Italian taste to this medieval farmhouse, transforming it into a warm and welcoming retreat from real life. Days pass listening to the cicadas by the pool, rowing across the estate’s private lakes or walking through olive groves that are hundreds of years old. All while never catching a single whiff of another soul. It hardly needs saying that this is a foodie’s paradise. Arrange for the chef to serve lunch at the poolside outhouse or dive into the twice-baked pear and pecorino souffle at nearby restaurant Il Caldaro, which has a particularly romantic garden terrace. What's more, if you don’t stock up on a few crates of the local Sagrantino grape variety, you really are missing a trick.

BOOK IT: Sleeps eight. From €10,000 (approx. £8,950) per week, including maid and concierge service. murlo.com n

PRICES ARE PER NIGHT ONLY UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

Villa Penna, Tenuta di Murlo, Umbria

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What to watch, stream, listen to and - finally - visit each week

Back from its summer break, Break Out Culture is C&TH’s new podcast, hosted

by Ed Vaizey and Charlotte Metcalf AVAILABLE ON

@countryandtown

Break-Out-Culture-Adv-STGLC.indd 1

/countryandtownhousemagazine

/countryandtownhouse

Apple Podcasts

Google Podcasts

countryandtownhouse.co.uk

04/09/2020 13:01

FOOD & TRAVEL It’s all glitz, glamour and gambling in Monte-Carlo

THE ESSENTIALS

STAY Hôtel Hermitage promises everything you could want from a stay in MonteCarlo. It is truly the glamour puss of grand dame hotels and there is nothing more romantic than breakfasting under the vast stained-glass cupola designed

by Gustave Eiffel.

T H E

W E E K E N D E R

MONTE-CARLO

Damn quarantine, Monte-Carlo is a place to see and be seen – at a distance, of course, says Anastasia Bernhardt

Boost your Dutch courage at the Café de Paris before rolling the dice at The Casino de Monte-Carlo

This is a place where appearances matter, somewhere where you go to see and be seen – socially distanced currently, of course. Dust off those marabou feathers because only fabulous will do, especially if you are dashing across to Le Bar Américain at the Hôtel de Paris for live jazz and champagne cocktails. Don’t worry about staying up too late (the best thing about a weekend in MonteCarlo is that you are never more than a few streets away from bed) or ordering a taxi to the airport: a helicopter transfer is the most authentic way to arrive (and costs about the same as the drive).

Three cheers to Monte-Carlo, one of the very last bastions of true excess.

Doubles at Hôtel Hermitage, Monte-Carlo from €355 per night. montecarlosbm.com n

SEE Bring your running shoes. Needless to say that between all of those Michelinstarred meals you’re going to need to burn off some energy but, at just over 2kms, you can run around the whole of Monaco in one short workout.

BUY It has never been easier to spend money in Monte-Carlo – and that really is saying something – with the arrival of One Monte-Carlo, a collection of Richard Rogers’ designed apartments with a view of the Casino Square.

DO You simply cannot come here without dicing with Lady Luck at The Casino de Monte-Carlo, instantly recognisable from its recurring role in James Bond, even if you just go to soak up the contrast of the Belle Époque architecture and neon slot machines.

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

O

h, Monte-Carlo. Where else in the world would you spot Philip Green mooching about the hotel lobby in his grey tracksuit, while the women dress up to the nines – we’re talking full fur – to pop out for a cup of coffee.

There really is nowhere else in the world like it, and everybody has to visit at least once. Whether that’s for the people-watching in peak Grand-Prix season (expect prices to double at the end of May) or only to experience paying €20 for a glass of water and an iced tea at Café de Paris, it’s hard not to be swept up by the old-world glamour of it all.

EAT To get into the true Monegasque mindset, the challenge is to eat two Michelin-starred meals a day.

Lunch on veal shank on the terrace of Le Vistamar before soaking in the twinkling lights from Le Grill – the view really is something; as is the signature herbed poulet.

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THIS MON TH

PARTY TRICK In these strange and socially distanced times we’ve landed in, how to celebrate safely with friends?

Bruton-based virtual dinner party host, Wanda, has come to the rescue with genius dinner-partiesin-a-box. Packed with table accessories, playlists, lists and recipes curated by London chefs, they’re all you need to let the good times roll.

From £40. wandabox.co.uk

TRY Ottolenghi’s new Instagram-ready meals. From £7.95. ottolenghi.co.uk

N E W S

GASTRO GOSSIP

BLUE CRUSH

Did you know a dial-a-cocktail service was missing from your life? Nor us, until now. Giving Londoners the option to have classic cocktails whizzed to their doorsteps, The Berkeley’s genius new Blue Bar Bikes delivery service begs the question: why ever face the queues again? the-berkeley.co.uk

The hunger games.

By Sofia Tindall

EAT Enough to butter anyone up.

Sublime garlic and herb butter, £4.25. farmison.com

BUTCHER, BAKER

For free-range meat, slow-reared for sustainability, The Dorset Meat Company has just launched its delivery boxes, while The Ginger Pig’s online shop delivers exceptional cuts from British livestock. thedorsetmeatcompany.co.uk; thegingerpig.co.uk

DRINK Ready-to-go bottled cocktails.

From £8. buckandbirch.com

PHOTOS: © GETTY IMAGES; © AARON GARUBERT

NO GUTS NO GLORY

FORKING BRILLIANT

New name-to-know Sorn provides bespoke gourmet adventures including diving for fresh scallops, whisky distillery tours and candlelit dinners in a remote bothy. Its beautiful Scottish country locations aren’t bad, either. sorndining.com

Time to put down the wine (sorry): if a lockdown diet wasn’t kind to your gut, the good news is you can still redress the balance with Kurami’s gut healthpromoting meal plans.

Set yourself right with deliveries of daily boxes, packed with superfoods and nutrients. From £39.40 per day. kurami.co.uk

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FOOD & TRAVEL R E C I P E

CRASHING OUT

Making huevos estrellados with tapas maestro Omar Allibhoy

N

o visit to Madrid is complete without eating these crashed or broken eggs, as we call them.

We eat them for lunch or dinner but you could also have them for breakfast or brunch. A crashed egg is somewhere between a fried and a scrambled egg – it ‘crashes’ because you crack open the egg some distance from the pan.

CR A SH ED EGGS

METHOD

INGREDIENTS SERVES TWO PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes COOKING TIME: 15 minutes » 200 ml olive oil » 1/2 Spanish onion, thinly sliced » 2 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced » 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced » 4 eggs » Salt and freshly ground black pepper » Salt and freshly ground black pepper » 40g serrano ham » 50g padron peppers

Heat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a medium to high heat and add the onion and potatoes. Fry for about ten minutes, or until golden. Remove from the pan and set aside. Drain the oil from the pan, leaving just enough to fry the garlic. Add the padron peppers followed by the garlic and fry for 30 seconds before returning the potatoes and onions to the pan, and adding the serrano ham.

Break the eggs one by one into the pan.

You need to do this from a distance – at least 30 cm – so that the eggs crash into the mix. Season with salt and pepper and let them cook for a minute or so without stirring.

They should still be very runny. Use a wooden spoon to carefully mix them in – remember you are not trying to make scrambled eggs! Serve immediately.

Tapas Revolution by Omar Allibhoy (Ebury, £15.99) n

FOODIE TA L ES

OMAR ALLIBHOY, CHEF AND FOUNDER OF TAPAS REVOLUTION Food philosophy? Treat the ingredients right and they will give you their maximum flavour.

First dish you cooked? It was a flan – a Spanish crème caramel, with my mum.

She frequently baked it at home so I would always whisk the eggs, sugar and milk for her.

Favourite in-season ingredient? It has to be artichoke for me. Its liquorice flavour is so special and no other veg compares.

Biggest mistake you’ve made? As a young chef de partie I once overcooked 30 fillet steaks for a party. I have never seen a chef as furious as my boss at the time. It wasn’t just the delay in the food arriving at the table but the cost of it, the embarrassment… Lesson learned!

Most memorable meal? It’s likely that I became a restaurateur as a result of the great meals I had with my family as a kid.

But one very special meal out was with my then-girlfriend, Sandra, in a small restaurant in Cartagena two years ago.

We were so happy and having such a great time I asked her to marry me, there and then without thinking much about it.

Luckily for me, she said yes and I got her a beautiful sapphire and diamond ring to finish the job properly.

When you’re not in the kitchen, where are you? I am a huge family guy. We have two sons aged two and seven, and it’s an absolute joy to be around them and make plans together. We love to invite our friends for dinners at home and enjoying long meals with laughter and good conversation.

Least favourite ingredient? Lamb’s brains. I just can’t stand the texture and flavour of them.

Who would you like to take out for dinner? I would love to take the Queen to my restaurant in Windsor. She reminds me of my grandmother, and I’m sure she would have the most interesting stories.

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RESTAUR A NT REVIEWS

CHURCH ROAD

PUBS WITH ROOMS GASTRO GOODNESS

From what she remembers of it, Anastasia Bernhardt had a smashing time in Barnes

PHOTOS: © ANDREW HAYES-WATKINS; © POLLY WEBSTER

H

as anyone else noticed that London has turned into a doughnut? All the good sugary stuff is now at the edges, but the middle has been wrought somewhat hollow.

It’s sad news for the centre, but neighbourhood restaurants have never had it better.

Church Road in Barnes is one of those places that we’d all love to have on the doorstep.

Heavyweight chef patron (Phil Howard), tick.

Restaurateur who has a personal connection (Rebecca Mascarenhas, who opened Sonny’s Kitchen on this same site 33 years previously), tick, tick. And a decent wine list. Tick, tick, tick.

My memory of Church Road is a little hazy.

Firstly, I visited at the end of last year, in the heady pre-Covid days when lamppost licking was a perfectly acceptable pastime. Secondly, I make all my notes on my iPhone, which some light-fingered individual claimed for their own in Naples. Thirdly, I spent all evening discussing engagement rings with my friend Pip (shameless plug incoming) the founder of Meghan Markle’s favourite shirt brand, With Nothing Underneath. And who, as the former jewellery editor of Tatler, happens to have a side venture advising on engagement rings for clueless men – and me. Fourthly, what I remember to be a smashing evening had somewhat of a smashing finish: poor Pip’s Citroen C3 had its window

battered in somewhere between the starter and the dessert.

Now I’ve got my excuses out of the way, what I will say is a respected journalist once admitted to me that she never took notes when reviewing, as all the important points would stay with her. So, I’m going to roll with it.

What do I remember about Church Road? Its staff, for one thing.

Knowledgeable and real. There were some exciting handcut strozzapreti with chanterelles and crispy chicken skin; a velvety butternut squash soup with wafer thin shavings of chestnut; and venison with pickled pears. There was also an extraordinary cheesecake made with brillat-savarin but I don’t really recall much of the interior. Make of that what you will. What I do remember with absolute clarity is learning the lesson to not leave your MacBook on the passenger seat.

And if you ask me, those are all the ingredients you need for a perfect evening (minus the call to the police). But if my half-baked review hasn’t persuaded you to leave the safety of the house, then maybe its food to order service will appeal.

Order before 6pm on the previous day and they will bring dinner to your door. Saves you from putting your Citroen C3 at risk, too. churchroadsw13.co.uk n

THE BLACK LION More of a fancy pants option, the Black Lion is what I imagine the love child of a gastro pub and an upmarket hotel to look like. It lets local products – like Suffolk beef – shine in imaginative ways, in this instance as carpaccio with gherkin ketchup. Not your usual pub grub. There’s great antique shopping to be had nearby, too. theblacklionlongmelford.com

THE SUN INN One of the most inviting pubs I’ve ever been to. Gorgeously crooked walls; dark, soothing interior; fish caught from Mersea day boats on the menu. What’s not to love?

Well worth a sleepover, if you can get the pub’s many ghost stories out of your head first. thesuninndedham.com

THE CROWN & ANCHOR Oh, we do love an underdog.

Two village families stepped in to protect their local from property developers. The result? The sort of pub that I yearn to have in my neighbourhood. Interiors that feel authentically ‘country’, a River Cottage trained chef and it welcomes dogs. Hurrah! crownandanchorham.co.uk

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STOCKISTS ALEXANDER MCQUEEN alexandermcqueen.com ARIAT ariat.com AUGUSTINUS BADER augustinusbader.com AVITEUR aviteur.com BARBOUR BY ALEXACHUNG barbour.com BASERANGE @netaporter.com BEGG X CO beggandcompany.com BOTTEGA VENETA bottegaveneta.com

CELTIC & CO celticandco.com

HICKS & BROWN hicksandbrown.com

MULBERRY mulberry.com

COMMANDO @matchesfashion.com

HOLLAND & HOLLAND hollandandholland.co.uk

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI philosophyofficial.com

HOUSE OF BRUAR houseofbruar.com

REALLY WILD reallywildclothing.com

HUNTER hunterboots.com

ROBERT PIGUET robertpiguetparfums.co.uk

CURRENT ELLIOTT currentelliott.com DIOR dior.com DUBARRY dubarry.com

LA PERLA laperla.com

EMMA WILLIS emmawillis.com

LE CHAMEAU lechameau.com

FAIRFAX & FAVOR fairfaxandfavor.com

LOUIS VUITTON louisvuitton.com

HARRY WINSTON harrywinston.com

LUCAN FASHION @harrods.com

HERMÉS hermes.com

MOLLY GODDARD mollygoddard.com

SIMONE ROCHA simonerocha.com TOM LANE tomlane.co VICTORIA BECKHAM victoriabeckham.com WESTLEY RICHARDS westleyrichards.com

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PROPERTY

HOUSE OF THE MONTH Sell it to us in a sentence... A substantial detached Victorian villa with views over the common to the front and access to the highly coveted Spencer Park to the rear.

Who’s behind the design? The property and those surrounding it were created by the then Earl Spencer in the mid-19th century.

Why’s it so special? It was the family home of the late Sir Kenneth MacMillan, who was the Royal Ballet’s principal choreographer. His works are in the repertories of more than 25 companies worldwide. His wife, Deborah MacMillan, is an acclaimed production and costume designer, and an artist.

Spencer Park, London, SW18 Price: £9m 8 bedrooms 4 bathrooms 6,450 sq/ft

Best room in the house? The beautiful drawing room with a stunning marble fireplace and elegant bay window. The studio on the first floor has sweeping views over the common.

What would parties be like? The house is perfect for entertaining, with the lovely garden room that opens out onto the terrace, and the beautiful walled garden.

The current owner has enjoyed hosting many parties and a couple of weddings.

What is the garden like? It’s a beautiful, large walled garden, which has many original mature trees, and a variety of flowering plants and shrubs. At the bottom of the garden, you also have access to Spencer Park, which was built as a private park for the exclusive use of the 25 households around its perimeter.

Perks of the location? Spencer Park is situated only a short walk to the shops and restaurants of Wandsworth. There are frequent services to Victoria and Waterloo from Clapham Junction. The area as a whole boasts a wonderful selection of schools and there are excellent sporting amenities close at hand, too.

020 8682 7777. knightfrank.co.uk n

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BEST FOR...

Day-tripping Take a boat to lunch in France with Jersey Seafaris.

Normandy’s popular resort of BarnevilleCarteret is just 30 minutes away. jerseyseafaris. com

M O V E

T O

JERSEY

Find your patch of paradise in Jersey’s St Brelade’s Bay

Lunch al fresco The Boat House, St Aubin, serves some of the island’s best fish and chips with views over the picturesque harbour of this tiny fishing village. randallsjersey.co.uk/ the-boat-house

Anna Tyzack finds ivory beaches and palm trees just 30 minutes from London

W

ith its white sand beaches, turquoise ocean and sunny climate, it’s hard to believe Jersey is just a 30-minute flight from London. The island, which is nine miles long and five miles wide, regularly tops charts as the sunniest place in Britain.

‘It gets a bit wet in winter but it’s never as cold as northern England,’ says Tessa Hartmann, a brand consultant who moved to Jersey from Glasgow six years ago. ‘We’re enjoying quintessential island living – there’s almost no crime, the roads are quiet and the lifestyle feels more Mediterranean than British. It’s bright here, even on a dull day, which is so uplifting.’

It was on a 24-hour business stopover that Hartmann and her husband discovered Jersey. They were toying with a move to the Middle East, but as they touched down in Jersey it felt as though they were arriving in the Maldives. ‘I’d always been longing to live among palm trees and there was a palm tree as we stepped out of the airport,’ Hartmann explains.

They sold up in Glasgow and relocated their marketing and public relations business to St Helier, Jersey’s picturesque capital. Soon afterwards they bought a house near Gorey, a pretty fishing village with an historic church and castle. ‘In Glasgow I spent my life in the car driving the kids around but here everything is so close and so easy,’ Hartmann says.

‘There’s such a community spirit, which was a blessing during lockdown – farmers leave honesty boxes for Jersey potatoes outside their farms and fishermen sell their catch of the day from the side of the road.’

Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, is perhaps

Clock off from work and head out on your yacht from St Aubin harbour

better known for its tax advantages than its balmy climate or close-knit community. The island’s government describes it as ‘tax efficient’ – the maximum income tax is 20 per cent and there is no capital gains or inheritance tax. Brits can relocate to Jersey as a high net worth individual, as a company employee or to start up a business (see next page for further details). According to Hartmann, securing a business licence was straightforward, and the process of relocating was relatively stress-free. ‘I had no idea how to find a GP or where to get my hair done but the islanders were so helpful,’ she says. ‘And it was the same with getting our children into good schools.’

For families, Jersey’s education system is a major draw.

There’s a wealth of good private and state schools for children of every age. Popular prep schools are St George’s (stgeorgesprep. co.uk) and St Michael’s (stmichaels.je), while secondary schools, Jersey College For Girls (jerseycollegeforgirls.com) and the all-boys Victoria College (victoriacollege.je) are highly regarded, as are Beaulieu, a Catholic girls’ school (beaulieu.jersey.sch.uk) and De La Salle College for boys (dls-jersey.co.uk). ‘The schooling on Jersey is fantastic,’ confirms Geri O’Brien of Savills. ‘And it all feels so safe – they get on the school bus in the mornings and

A wardrobe refresh Shop ’til you drop in Jersey’s boutiques such as Elizabeth Howell and Roulette.

With no VAT, fashion tourism on the island is becoming increasingly popular. elizabethhowell boutique.co.uk; rouletteclothing. co.uk Fine dining For a Michelinstarred meal, with an outside cocktail bar, Bohemia is a real hit with locals and visitors alike. Kick off the evening with a Lanique and tonic – Jersey’s own liquor, made with Attar of Rose and created by steam-distilling thousands of rose petals. bohemia jersey.com

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

L E T ’ S

Family dining Italian restaurant La Capannina is a Jersey institution, a 1970s throwback beloved by both locals and tourists. lacapannina jersey.com

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PROPERTY play on the beach after lessons have finished.’

The island also enjoys a world-class healthcare system, a wealth of health clubs and gyms and an enviable restaurant and bar scene. Hartmann recommends booking a table on the terrace at the Oyster Box in St Brelade’s Bay (oysterbox.co.uk) or lunch at Longville Manor, a country retreat two minutes from St Helier (longuevillemanor.com).

‘We’ve very lucky – there are so many restaurants and bars,’ she says. ‘In summer and winter people head to the Royal Yacht Hotel in St Helier after work’ (theroyalyacht.com).

It’s a myth, according to O’Brien, that everyone living on Jersey is super rich, since alongside local islanders there are also plenty of graduates employed by top law firms and companies such as PwC, a mix that ensures a dynamic community of people living normal lives. ‘It attracts young financial talent, top surgeons and specialists in every field: where else can you pop out in your boat after work?’ asks O’Brien. ‘There are no language barriers,’ she adds, ‘it’s the same currency as Britain and yet there are also really big tax advantages for those who want to utilise the opportunity.’

That said, property on the island is expensive – akin to London prices for those relocating.

A basic one-bedroom apartment with no parking will cost around £300,000, while prices for three-

bedroom semis start at around £575,000. ‘For £800,000 you’ll get a nice place, but it won’t be a gorgeous house with a huge garden,’ O’Brien concedes. Five-bedroom family homes start at £1.3m to £1.4m, stretching up to £12m for mansions with sea views. ‘It’s still worth noting that 96 per cent of the market is under one million,’ she points out.

The island is made up of 12 parishes, each of which has a different feel. Those looking for privacy tend to steer towards country houses and restored farmhouses with sea views, a few miles from the coast, while the flashiest houses are on the south-west coast. ‘There’s been a flurry of activity for homes around £3m in this part of the island,’ O’Brien continues. ‘Buyers at this level will probably spend another million or two making the property exactly how they want it.’

There is also increasing demand, according to Margaret Thompson of Fine & Country Jersey, for turnkey homes in the west of the island. Top Jersey developer and lifestyle concierge DiCasa (dicasalifestyle.com), recently completed four sumptuous residences for high-net-worth buyers, which will be sold fully furnished. The company takes care of every aspect of clients’ relocation – including finding the right car, school, healthcare and private charter jet.

In the wake of the coronavirus pandemic, Thompson is convinced that Jersey will only become more popular, attracting those who value community, space and easy access to Britain and Europe. ‘We have a warm climate, clean beaches and friendly people,’ Thompson says.

‘And you’ll pay less tax.’ The best of all worlds, surely? n

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

ST PETER, £3.25m The Oaks Manor is a traditional farmhouse, modernised and refurbished to include four reception rooms, seven bedrooms (including a guest annexe) and a basement with games room. There’s an attractive walled garden and a large garage. It’s also within walking distance of shops and five minutes’ drive from the airport. knightfrank.co.uk

ST JOHN, £POA Highcliff has been completely refurbished

by DiCasa, keeping its original character while creating a modern family home.

There are four bedroom suites with walk-in wardrobes plus a swimming pool, mature woodlands and natural coastal headland. There’s also a two-bedroom, en-suite guest cottage. dicasahomes.com

ST BRELADE, £POA Remodelled in 2017, Le Val Lodge is an impressive residence on Jersey’s southwest coast with beautiful landscaped gardens. The open-plan layout has five reception rooms, eight bedroom suites and a self-contained apartment. There’s also an infinity pool, tennis court, garages, offices and a wine store. savills.co.uk

Book a table at Bohemia, St Helier’s Michelin-starred restaurant

JERSEY AND TAX Jersey is a self-governing Crown Dependency with its own fiscal and legal system. Residents pay tax on income (maximum 20 per cent), goods and services (usually 5 per cent) but there’s no capital gains or inheritance tax. The standard rate of corporate income tax is 0 per cent, with exceptions for financial service companies (10 per cent tax rate), utility companies (20 per cent tax rate) and large corporate retailers (varies depending on the profits, maximum 20 per cent). Company income from property or property development is also taxed at 20 per cent. There are also extra reliefs you can claim, which increase your tax exemption threshold.

For full details see gov.je

FOR SA L E

Sample Lanique, the island’s very own aperitivo

ST BRELADE, £4.95m A cutting-edge residence with garden, garages and glorious sea views. There are reception rooms with floor-to-ceiling glazing, a fully equipped cinema room and a study. The spectacular master bedroom has a large balcony and there are three further en-suite bedrooms. fineandcountryjersey.com

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INTERIORS and always want to be on the

INSIDE? Then join the list for our hotly anticipated monthly House Guest newsletter from Carole Annett, launching this September.

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PROPERTY F I V E

O F

T H E

B E S T

ARTISTS’ HOMES

Places to get your creative juices flowing, as chosen by Amy Wakeham

TAUNTON, £4.5m

This magnificent Grade II-listed country house comes with 19 acres of gardens and parkland – ideal inspiration for any artist – plus 8-10 bedrooms ripe for conversion into a creative space. There’s also a recording studio with a sound-proof booth for budding podcasters or musicians, and a temperature-controlled wine cellar and dedicated home cinema when you need a little creative refreshment. knightfrank.co.uk

BODMIN, £3.25m

Equidistant from north Cornwall’s wild beaches and the south coast’s secluded coves and inlets, Glynn House is a beautiful, impressive house that dates back to the mid-18th century. Its history is exciting: it was used as a secret naval base in WWII and, more recently, was the base for the Glynn Research Ltd laboratory, founded

by Nobel Prize-winning biologist Peter D Mitchell. Today, the renovation possibilities are extensive, and the detached Clock House is ripe for conversion into an artist’s studio.

FELSTED, £1.75m Sewards Hall, a fine Georgian country house that dates back to 1787, sits in five acres of formal lawns in the heart of Essex countryside.

Incredibly, it’s only 35 minutes from London Liverpool Street (so you can have the best of both worlds) and offers six bedrooms as well as studio space, a large garden room and an outside workshop – all offering heaps of potential for creative types. struttandparker.com

HACKNEY, £4m Meticulously renovated by interior designer João Botelho (and also used as his showroom), this five-bedroom end-of-terrace house is perfect for those looking to get creative. It’s spread over 3,000 square foot across four floors, with grand proportions and a beautiful Tuscan-inspired garden.

There’s a study, garden room and summer house, all of which are begging for an easel or potter’s wheel to be installed. hamptons.co.uk

KINGSTON-UPON-THAMES, £2.7m A welcoming-yet-spacious detached family home on the outskirts of London, this six-bedroom Victorian house is just a few steps from a scenic stretch of the Thames and the delightful Canbury Gardens. It has high ceilings and elegant proportions throughout, as well as a beautiful garden. Uniquely, it boasts a loft conversion with ample space and light (currently a nursery) that would make a superb artist’s studio. savills.com

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CROCKER END, OXFORDSHIRE

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his delightful Victorian family home sits in an idyllic position within a small hamlet, at the heart of the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The main house is set within grounds and gardens of more than eight acres, and has stabling, a lodge and a separate cottage split into guest and staff apartments.

8 B E D R O O M S | 6 B AT H R O O M S | 5 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | L A R G E D O U B L E G A R A G E | S W I M M I N G P O O L | T E N N I S C O U R T | L O D G E A N D S E PA R AT E C O T TA G E | B E A U T I F U L G A R D E N S A N D G R O U N D S W I T H V I E W S | E P C F N E T T L E B E D 0 . 5 M I L E S | H E N L E Y- O N -T H A M E S 5 M I L E S | C E N T R A L L O N D O N 4 1 M I L E S

Guide price £5,750,000 james.crawford@knightfrank.com 020 7861 1065 nick.warner@knightfrank.com 01491 844901

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East Sussex, Rodmell

Price on Application

A superb country house, standing in an exceptional elevated position within the South Downs National Park, with breathtaking downland views to the sea.

Entrance hall | 4 Reception rooms | 30’ Kitchen/breakfast room | 5 Bedrooms (2 ensuite) | Further bathroom | Indoor swimming pool with sauna, shower/cloakroom and plant room | Garaging for two cars | Beautiful gardens and grounds | Just over 8 acres | EPC rating F Tim Page Ratcliff Lewes Office | 01273 475411

/struttandparker

@struttandparker

struttandparker.com

60 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.

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Onslow Square, South Kensington SW7 A superb Ground and First Floor maisonette, with the original private street entrance and stone staircase, located on one of London’s best garden squares. Unique in layout with the feel of a house, this wonderful home was refurbished in 2018 to a very high specification.

Leasehold: Approximately 170 years

4 Double Bedrooms ■ Principal Bathroom ■ Steam Shower Room ■ Cloakroom ■ Elegant Reception Room ■ Bespoke fully equipped Kitchen ■ Dining Room ■ Utility Cupboard ■ Direct access to rear Communal Garden ■ Two large Square Gardens (one with Tennis Court) ■ 2 Balconies ■ EPC rating E

£4,950,000

Call, click or visit: 4 Yeoman’s Row Brompton Road London SW3 2AH 020 7590 0066 www.kayeandcarey.co.uk Matthew Kaye

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prestige Cropthorne Manor The Manor House has a stunning Queen Anne architectural facade and stands in

Cropthorne Worcestershire WR10

Guide price

£1,250,000

ample grounds with river frontage and stunning views. In all the grounds are about 2.4 acres and consist of a hard tennis court, formal level lawn, small orchard and riverside area.

The spacious accommodation has six bedrooms and there is further substantial ancillary accommodation which would be ideal for a dependant relative forming a two bedroomed detached coaching house with wet room, sitting room and kitchen.

• 2.4 acres of garden and grounds • 2-bed coach house • Rural location • Riverside access • Cellar • Study / home office • Double and single garage • Tennis court • 5,550 sq. ft.

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View video at

bit.ly/cropman_vid

We’re here to help you on

0330 024 3000 or email at worcestershire@andrew-grant.co.uk

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Guest Road, Cambridge – Station less than 1 mile £1,250,000 A most stylish and rather elegant Victorian townhouse of considerable charm and character, sympathetically improved and extended in recent times but retaining many attractive features of the highest quality including sash windows, picture rails, moulded cornicing and cast iron firegrates. The property occupies an outstanding prime position in a most desirable residential street, so conveniently placed for access to the city centre, an extensive range of local amenities and the railway station. Accommodation comprising: Hall, cloakroom, sitting room, living room, utility room, open plan kitchen and dining room, cellar. On the first floor: 3 bedrooms, en suite shower room, bathroom. On the second floor: 2 bedrooms. Outside: front and rear gardens. EER: D Contact: Martin Walshe | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | martin.walshe@cheffins.co.uk

Hartington Grove – Station 1 mile £1,295,000 A most impressive and substantial extended semi-detached two storey bay fronted Victorian residence extending in all to approx. 2,500 square feet with generous gardens and double garage in this most convenient south city location just off Hills Road close to a good range of local amenities, Addenbrookes Hospital, mainline railway station and the city centre. Accommodation comprising: Hall, living room, sitting room, office/study, cloakroom, utility room, kitchen/breakfast room, dining/family room, cellar. On the first floor: 3 bedrooms, bathroom, shower room. On the second floor: 2 bedrooms, shower room. Outside: front, side and rear gardens, detached double garage. EER: D Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

cheffins.co.uk 01223 214214

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Rathmore Road, Cambridge – Station 1 mile £925,000 An elegant and beautifully presented Victorian residence boasting a number of period features combined with generous rear gardens, detached studio and parking, in a central city location convenient for a range of local amenities including the railway station. Accommodation comprising: Hall, cloakroom, sitting room, living room, kitchen/dining room. On the first floor: 3 bedrooms, family bathroom. On the second floor: bedroom, shower room.

Outside: front and rear gardens, driveway parking to rear, detached studio/annexe with bed/sitting room and en suite shower room. EER: D Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

St Barnabas Road, Cambridge – Station less than 1 mile £1,500,000 An elegant and substantial bay fronted Edwardian semi-detached residence, offering beautifully presented and well-proportioned accommodation over three floors, situated within this prime central city location so conveniently placed for access to the railway station and benefiting from enclosed rear garden and off-street parking. Accommodation comprising: Hall, living room, sitting room, kitchen/dining room, cellar. On the first floor: 3 bedrooms, dressing room, toilet. On the second floor: 2 bedrooms, shower room. Outside: front and rear gardens, allocated parking. EER: D Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

Cambridge | Saffron Walden | Newmarket | Ely | Haverhill | London

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Six Mile Bottom – Station 3 miles £1,800,000 A most impressive and substantial detached country residence, originally dating from the 1800s with later additions including a most impressive newly installed Nicholas Anthony kitchen as well as beautifully presented and refurbished accommodation, occupying a most attractive setting with a range of outbuildings including stables, storage and garaging. The property sits within its ow grounds of around 2.38 acres, with further land available.

Accommodation comprising: Hall, living room, office/morning room, kitchen/breakfast/family room, boot room, cloakroom, drawing room, summer kitchen/utility. On the first floor: 5 bedrooms, en suite shower room, study/landing, 2 bathrooms. EER: F Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

Landbeach – Station 2 miles £2,250,000 A rather special and truly remarkable substantial country residence of significant charm and character with accommodation extending to about 8,050 sq. ft. and finished to a high standard and boasting a designer Italian kitchen as well as the highest quality bathrooms and shower rooms. The property sits in a delightful tucked-away position offering a high degree of seclusion and privacy within grounds in all extending to around 2 acres with useful storage/barn and stabling as well as indoor pool/gym complex. Accommodation comprising: Hall, 2 cloakrooms, lounge, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, sitting room, family/ games room, bedroom, study/office, leisure complex. On the first floor: 4 bedrooms, all with en suites. On the second floor: bedroom with en suite. EER: C Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

cheffins.co.uk 01223 214214

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Great Shelford – Station less than 1 mile £1,475,000 A substantial detached Edwardian bay fronted residence, located within this exclusive private tree-lined avenue within this most desirable south Cambridgeshire village with a good range of local amenities including railway station and cycle path to the Addenbrookes Campus. This fine house sits comfortably within its own established grounds extending to around a third of an acre. Accommodation comprising: Hall, cloakroom, living/dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, garden room, family room, study, utility room. On the first floor: 4 bedrooms, en suite shower room, family bathroom. Outside: gravelled driveway parking, generous gardens. EER: E Contact: Richard Freshwater | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | richard.freshwater@cheffins.co.uk

Little Abington – Station 4.5 miles £895,000 An exquisite and most attractive Grade II Listed detached home of style and panache, originally dating back to 1830 and formerly the Princess of Wales pub, sympathetically improved and extended while retaining a wealth of character features and providing beautifully presented accommodation. The property also has the benefit of a delightful mature landscaped garden, enjoying a high degree of privacy and seclusion, together with automatic gates leading to a private courtyard parking space and detached cart lodge with stores off and first floor studio/office. Accommodation comprising: Hall, sitting room, cellar, snug/family room, utility room, cloakroom, award-winning kitchen/dining room, home office/mezzanine. On the first floor: 4 bedrooms, 1 en suite, bathroom.

Contact: Martin Walshe | Cambridge Office: 01223 214214 | martin.walshe@cheffins.co.uk

Cambridge | Saffron Walden | Newmarket | Ely | Haverhill | London

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St Tudy, North Cornwall Wadebridge 6 miles, Polzeath 12 miles, Bodmin Parkway Station 12 miles Wonderful Arts and Crafts former Rectory with up to 7 bedrooms and 2 bedroom coach house all set in large part-walled gardens.

5404 sqft (total), 1.3 acres, EPC G/F Guide £1.5m

Falmouth, South Cornwall Grade II listed elegant townhouse above Royal Cornwall Yacht Club on historic terrace, 4 bedrooms and 4 bath/shower rooms.

Carefully restored and renovated by the present owners.

2411 sqft Guide £900,000

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Between Falmouth and the Helford, South Cornwall Falmouth 3 miles, Helford River 2 miles, Truro 11 miles Exceptionally private small country estate, 5 bedrooms, detached 3 bed cottage, home office, stables and subtropical gardens.

4943 sqft (total), 16 acres, EPC F/E Guide £3m

Near Fowey, South Cornwall Fowey 2 miles, Par Station 3 miles, Truro 23 miles A unique country freehold comprising 3 beautifully converted and spacious barns just 2 miles from the charming harbour town of Fowey.

4063 sqft (total), 11 acres, EPC D/E/E Guide £POA

J O N AT H A N jonathancunliffe.co.uk

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PROMOTION

BACK TO NATURE Discover Quinta do Lago, Portugal’s Eden on the Algarve

Quinta do Lago is situated in the beautiful Algarve region of southern Portugal

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he Algarve has long drawn British travellers attracted by its golden beaches, whitewashed villages and soaring cliffs. And now it’s the perfect time to make it your home.

Quinta do Lago is a luxury residential and golf development set in the heart of the Algarve’s beautiful Ria Formosa nature reserve. A world-leader in harmonising high-end real estate while protecting and maintaining a virtually untouched region of natural beauty, Quinta do Lago boasts low-density buildings set within luscious green spaces, as well as world-class sport and leisure facilities, in-house services, incredible gastronomic experiences and a strong sense of community.

SAN LORENZO NORTH

The low-density development has nature at its heart

One of Quinta do Lago’s most desired and exclusive areas is San Lorenzo North. Offering 26 separate virgin plots, buyers can either build their new home in this untouched corner of the resort or choose one of the bespoke turnkey solutions.

Plots range from 2,000 to 3,000 square metres and are designed for the construction of private detached villas of over two levels, plus a basement – there are no stylistic architectural restrictions, so you really can build the house of your dreams.

You can also choose from lake-front, golf-front or pine grove views.

LIFE AT QUINTA DO LAGO Time spent here is unlike anywhere else. Enveloped in the untouched Ria Formosa nature reserve, Quinta do Lago offers peace, serenity and a sense of wellbeing. Its sports leisure facilities are world-class with three golf courses and The Campus, the new sports centre with a state-of-the-art gym, tennis court and pool.

Foodies will also love Quinta do Lago’s exceptional collection of award-winning cafes, bars and restaurants. All in all, it’s the ultimate destination for people looking to escape crowds, get back to nature, and experience just how good life can be.

Build your dream home in San Lorenzo North

For information on the real estate at Quinta do Lago please contact realestate@quintadolago.com or call +351 289 392 754. sanlorenzonorth.com; quintadolago.com

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LAST WORD If nothing else, recent events have taught us to find joy in the simplest of moments

TALES OF OUR TIME

Michael Hayman on the book that gave him a fresh perspective on recent events

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mor Towles’ 2016 novel A Gentleman In Moscow is the perfect lockdown read. It explores what it takes to live a good life when so many of the things you might have hitherto taken for granted are snatched away.

In the book Count Alexander Rostov is sentenced in the early days of the 1917 Russian Revolution to live out the rest of his life in a tiny attic in the city’s most prestigious hotel, The Metropole, where he had once been one of its grandest residents.

The story presents an old claim, as the Count asserts, that: ‘It is a sad but unavoidable fact of life that as we age our social circles grow smaller. Whether from increased habit or diminished vigour, we suddenly find ourselves in the company of just a few familiar faces.’

Yet the story we go on to read is anything but. A Gentleman In Moscow is about the magical joy of a liberated human who finds immense meaning, presence of mind, and wonder in people and moments he may never have otherwise cherished if his life had not been so radically changed.

And while the novel speaks to the trials of an earlier age it also

captures the troubled spirit of today. One where the yearning to return to life as it was before may not be fulfilled. One where the frustrations and anxieties born by restrictions upon personal liberty have for many been a source of personal despair. It’s an experience akin to holding our breath, hoping that if we last long enough, that by the time we come up for air, everything will be as before. But it might not and perhaps we should ask if we want it to be?

Perhaps this new normal offers an invitation to think again about the privileges of freedom and the responsibility it places on us to look after each other and the planet. Maybe by being apart we can find that community, family and a general sense of togetherness are a lot closer than circumstances might at first suggest.

In the book the Count offers two pieces of advice for a life well lived. ‘The first was that if one did not master one’s circumstances, one was bound to be mastered by them; and the second was… that the surest sign of wisdom is constant cheerfulness.’

Michael Hayman is co-founder of Seven Hills and co-author of Mission (Penguin, £10.99) n

READ A Gentleman in Moscow by Amor Towles (Windmill Books, £8.99).

LISTEN The Michelle Obama podcast, which kicks off with a casual, intimate interview with her husband (spotify.com). WATCH A Beautiful Mind, narrating the life of the famed economist John Forbes Nash Jr (netflix.com).

WEAR Skull & Crossbones velvet slippers by Crockett & Jones for some swashbuckling lockdown luxury (£285, crockettandjones.com) FOLLOW Grosvenor Hartley on Instagram for beautiful, unique antiquities and curiosities (instagram.com/grosvenorhartley).

PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

TA L K I N G P O I N T S

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