Coulture | Fall/Winter 2015

FALL/WINTER 2015

COULTURE

the

FASHION IS POWER

issue

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3 | C | Table of Contents

Table of Contents

20 37 49

4 5 6 7 8 9 15 17 19 20 21 23 27 28 29 33 37 43 49 61 65 66

Cyberspace Masthead Letter from the Editor Culture Update Cheap & Chic We Work, We Play, We Party Fashion News From High-Rise to High-Rise Spaniels & Sperrys Craving Caffeine If We’re Talking Body The Songwriter’s Town Beauty & the Bargain Connect Amsterdamn You Fine Heaven, Quarantined Leather & Chrome Seeds of Style, Roots of Revolt Provocation in Print Starting in Stilettos Young, Styled & Free Coordinate Me

Cyberspace | C | 4

Trending Now:#coulturemag

INSTAGRAM: @COULTUREMAG FACEBOOK.COM/ COULTUREMAGAZINE TWITTER: @COULTUREMAG

Check out our website for content updated weekly

COULTURE.ORG

5 | C | Masthead

Masthead ISSUE 1

editor-in-chief Alexandra Hehlen

deputy editor-in-chief Remington Remmel

Style Editor | Copelyn Bengel

Asst. Style Editors | Cori Johnson & Jordan Townsend

Fashion News Editor | Nikki Wasserman

Assistant Fashion News Editor | Libby Vilmar

Beauty Editor | Sara Rich

Assistant Beauty Editor | Kimberly Baudhuin

Health Editor | Katie Plampton

Assistant Health Editor | Marissa Treible

Features Editor | Alexandra Hehlen

Assistant Features Editor | Jennifer Lee

Photography Editor | Alexis Fairbanks

Assistant Photography Editor | Elise Holsonback

Arts Editor | Claire Neilsen

Assistant Arts Editor | Caroline Reed

Modeling Director | Morgan Pratt

Assistant Modeling Director| Adeyemi Olatunde

Social Media Editor | Ashlyn Siske

Asst. Social Media Editors | Jessie Carter & Emily Nobles

Digital Editor | Zita Voros

Assistant Digital Editor | Nicole Paz

Graphic Design Editor | Diandra Dwyer

Assistant Graphic Design Editor | Wyatt Wilt

Fundraising Director | Abbey Rogers

Assistant Fundraising Director | Isabel Herring

Financial Director | Ian Muriuki

Assistant Financial Director | Juliana Sorois

Marketing Director | Jessica Beach

Assistant Marketing Director | Lydie Neill

Production Director | Meghan Matthews

Assistant Production Director | Brianna Kusilek

Faculty Advisor | Chris Roush

Retail Partnerships Director | Michael Shanahan Graphic Designers:

Diandra Dwyer | Wyatt Wilt | Shephard Sullivan | Catalina Berenblum | Zita Voros | Remington Remmel | Elina Rodriguez

Letter from the Editor | C | 6

Styling a coup d’etat

Alexandra Hehlen | Editor-In-Chief On a glorious May day in Thun, Switzerland, I sauntered down the city’s cobblestoned, main street in a chartreuse skirt. Women chatting over tea nearby stopped mid-conversation to stare. I swear one elderly lady sipping coffee at a street-side bistro nearly choked on her biscuit when she saw me. I’ll admit my outfit was by no means discrete, the A-line skirt (featured on page 10) flaring out from my waist and ending just above my knees. My fellow Swiss citizens are generally reserved. I am not. So I kept my head held high.

But as I walked something tugged at my sleeve, at the corners of my mind. Why was it that this skirt, an unexpected find in Luxembourg and defining element of my personal style, made everyone look at me as if I had seven eyes?

Why was it that I felt slightly uncomfortable – maybe even embarrassed? Why did I feel as if I had to bow to judgment, to shrink and walk with less confidence?

Far too often do people confuse a definite sense of personal style and a daringness to wear what you love with a grab for attention, a show of pomp and arrogance.

It’s easy to bow to these preconceived notions, to blend in and melt away and hide.

Constraining what you wear not only limits your external appearance but also holds back a necessary outlet for personal expression. Caging who you are on the outside can slowly suffocate your inner vibrance. The solution is four simple words: wear what you love. No, it’s not easy.

Haters will hate. Onlookers will stare. Maybe people will even comment. But seconds or minutes later the eyes of onlookers will move on; minds will forget.

Honestly, no one really cares, and if they do, it’s only for a fleeting moment. The only person who will witness your personal style in its constant evolution is yourself. If there is one eye you must please, let it be your own.

Maybe at first you’ll feel embarrassed or nervous. Even after years of embracing my personal style, sometimes I still do. But remind yourself to walk with confidence. You deserve to.

As our first issue of Coulture shows, fashion holds immense power. From our photoshoots, modeled and styled exclusively by

students, to our pieces about body image and beauty on a budget, our content focuses not only on empowering staff and subjects but also you, our readers.

Embracing personal style can do wonders for self-esteem and self-confidence. Maybe it’s a scary thought to invest more time in your appearance. Maybe you don’t know how to. That’s where Coulture comes in. Let this issue inspire you. Witness for yourself the way clothing comes alive on our models and the way it makes life more vibrant, full and authentic.

This is our first issue. So as we continue to find the best way to bring you relatable content and down-to-earth fashion advice, I hope you’ll take some first steps, too. Pull out your chartreuse skirt, your crazy yellow bag, your blue lipstick or your patterned kicks.

Let them put spring in your step.

Let them give you the strength to embrace you for you.

Together, let’s begin a fashion revolution of body-positivity and confidence. Together, let’s set an example for how beautiful challenging unrealistic standards looks. Together, let’s smile, let’s style, let’s live.

7 | C | Culture Update

Testing, Testing

Claire Neilsen

Testing, testing. Is this thing on? The Ackland Art Museum is, for the first time, giving a voice to modern and contemporary artwork that tests artistic limits.

The museum’s new exhibition, called “Testing, Testing,” runs until Jan. 3, 2016. The exhibit’s paintings and sculptures feature

CPAC (Carolina Performing Arts Center)

The Nutcracker Ballet

December 5 at 2pm & 8pm December 6 at 8pm

experimental materials, novel concepts and unconventional subjects created from the 1960s to present.

Particularly notable pieces include Marc Swanson’s 2004 “Untitled (Looking Back Buck),” a mounted sculpture of a buck’s head embellished with crystals pressed into polyurethane foam and adhesive; Rachel Howard’s “Gluttony” 2002-2003, a large painting made with household gloss paint on canvas; and Alfonso Ossorio’s “La Vie En Rose” 1969, a sculpture assembled from plastic and various materials like conch shells and glass orbs mounted on a panel.

This is just a sampling of a much more extensive exhibit that displays pieces by artists such as Carlos CruzDiez, Julian Stanczak and Horacio Torres. The exhibited artworks employ eclectic materials like twisted and welded steel, polyester resin, recycled metals and fabrics,

CAT’S CRADLE The Academy Is... (emo-pop band)

December 6 at 8pm

Steep Canyon Rangers

The Red Clay Ramblers

December 12 at 8pm

December 9-11 at 7:30pm

(bluegrass music)

Campagnie Marie Chouinard (contemporary dance company)

February 23-24 at 7:30pm

at Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater

CPAC schedule on website:

https://www.carolinaperformingarts.org/

(North Carolina string band)

Bombadil

(North Carolina based folk/pop two-piece band)

December 19 at 8pm

Cat’s Cradle schedule on website: http://www.catscradle.com

and polished, reflective surfaces.

Testing, Testing is a dazzling experience. The richness of the textures, colors and mediums are sure to please and intrigue the eye. Each individual piece has its own complicated story to tell, drawing visitors into the impulses of each artist’s creative mind.

UPCOMING ALBUMS Baroness’s Purple December 18

Suede’s Night Thoughts January 22

Yoko Ono’s Yes, I’m A Witch Too January 22

Also, keep an eye out for:

Sky Ferreira’s Masochism Sia’s This is Acting Nels Cline’s Lovers

Cheap and Chic | C | 8

Triple Threat Jordan Townsend Emily Kupec

SWEATER WEATHER

This casual and comfy outfit is great for class or a family outing. Top off the look with a scarf and knee-high boots.

Want a celebrity look without the price tag? Look no further. From running errands to going on a date to hitting the clubs, these outfits have you covered. Each one is inspired by celebrity street style and costs under $100. Shop similar at Zara.

From left to right: modeled by Caroline Reed, Meghan Golliher, Simran Khadka

SHIMMER AND SHIMMY

Sparkle when you go out on the town. This sequin skirt and simple crop top show just enough skin.

EDGY ELEGANCE

This fun, patterned dress and sleek leather jacket are perfect for a cocktail or fancy dinner.

9 | C | Currently Trending

We Work, We Play, We Party From floral shirts and capes to

man buns and lobs, this season’s trends put a modern twist on comfort and classic staples.

Athleisure emanates both a sporty and sophisticated vibe, allowing women to dress up their favorite workout gear with skirts, tank tops and jackets. Flex denim joggers for men play a similar role, allowing for fit and flexibility. Accessories such as chunky heels, bold sneakers and herschel backpacks make a bold statement. These trends, which represent the perfect balance between style and practicality, are easy for anyone to embrace, even on a college campus.

Niki Wasserman, Shephard Sullivan Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks

Modeled by Jada Richardson, Shephard Sullivan, Shay Matthews, Juhi Patel, Kristy Sakano, Parker Place, Gentry Fitch, Hunter Brake, Jacob Yankey

Currently Trending | C | 10

Fit and Flare

Pairing this statement, chartreuse skirt with a pair of colorful Nike’s and an athletic jacket is the perfect way to add a dash of style to an otherwise gym-bound look.

Skirt H&M, $80; necklace LOFT, $30

A for Athleisure Don’t have time to change after you’re done working out? Dress up your workout gear with fresh, brightly colored footwear and sparkling accessories.

Top Forever 21, $15; leggings thrifted at Buffalo Exchange, $15; sandals shop similar at Topshop.

#SaveTheAnkle Tired of risking a twisted ankle in your thin heels? Try a chunky heel that improves your strut as well as your wardrobe. Whether it be a pop of color or a fierce snake skin, the chunky heel is a perfect addition to any outfit.

Coral heels American Eagle

11 | C | Currently Trending

Coffee with Cream Lots of Lob

No colors are cozier than this fall’s fastest spreading colors, creams and browns. Whether you’re cuddling up at home, hitting the streets or planning a night out, this color combo is perfect for any occasion.

Jacket Harry Hall; gloves & scarf shop similar at H&M

The latest and greatest women’s haircut style is more than just an unmaintained bob. The style is very similar, but hair is just above shoulder length and is usually left wavy with lots of volume.

Razzle Dazzle Channel the 1920’s with a modern twist by wearing a touch of glitter. Accessorize any outfit with a necklace, headband or bracelet for sparkle. Extra points if you add pearls.

Dress shop similar at Dillard’s; shoes Aerosoles

Currently Trending | C | 12

Cape Town

The cape is a comfortable alternative to the typical coat or jacket. Best paired with a dress, tights, or pants, capes come in different silhouettes and styles and serve as the ultimate winter accessory.

Cape Jealous Tomato; scarf Vince Camuto

13 | C | Currently Trending

Haulin’ Herschel Want a bag that says more about you than a typical North Face? Herschel bags achieve a clean-cut, sensible look in a variety of patterns and shapes.

Whether decorated with a simple accent or bold pattern, Herchel backpacks have changed the game for the better.

Find one at shop.herschelbags.com from $29.99

Stretch it Out

Not to be confused for jeggings for guys, this denim comes in three levels of stretch that make your jeans feel as comfortable as sweatpants but without sacrificing good fit.

Designers achieve such a comfortable stretch by blending the standard cotton-denim with small percentages of synthetic materials like spandex, nylon or acrylic.

Starting at $44.95 at American Eagle Outfitters.

Currently Trending | C | 14

Top Knotch

Wearing Thin

A winter staple, the thin scarf is a versatile and classic accessory essential for fall or winter weather. Pair a patterned or brightly colored scarf with any neutral sweater or button-down shirt to transform a look.

Previously a hippie haristyle, the “man bun” is growing into this fall’s biggest hair trend.

Effortless and offbeat, wear tie your hair half-up, half-down, or wrap it all into a topknot. Hair ties are no longer just a girl’s necessity, so think twice about your next haircut.

Daisy Dudes Can guys really pull off florals? The answer is yes.

Floral tops for guys look great paired with skinny jeans, khakis and any shoes like Converse. Subtle floral prints provide an effortless pop. No other short-sleeve button down can bring your wardrobe to the next level like a floral.

Available at J.Crew, Nordstrom, Pacsun from $49.99.

15 | C | Fashion News

LOOKING FLY

Niki Wasserman

M

atthew Walzer grew up struggling to tie his own shoes. Walzer, a sophomore at Florida Gulf Coast University, has cerebral palsy and a lack of flexibility in one hand. He continuously searched for a pair of fashion-forward sneakers that he could securely fasten on his own but never seemed to find the perfect fit.

So he collaborated with Nike to design FLYEASE, an easy-entry sneaker line.

Hoping to encourage Nike to invent a shoe that was both stylish and practical for his abilities, Walzer wrote a letter to Nike CEO Mark Parker during the summer of 2012. The letter eventually reached Nike

“My dream is to go to the college of my choice without having to worry about someone coming to tie my shoes everyday. ”

happen when a designer on a mission and a student with a vision cooperate to test the limits of fashion.

MATTHEW WALZER

designer Tobie Hatfield, who specializes in creating shoes for athletes that face similar obstacles as Walzer.

As he began crafting different styles of shoes that met Walzer’s needs, Hatfield sent Walzer prototypes to test and assess. The three-year process culminated in the FLYEASE innovation.

According to Nike News, the shoe features a zipper system – as opposed to traditional laces – and substantial ankle support.

Walzer and Hatfield’s teamwork set a precedent for sneaker brands

by emphasizing the importance of designing shoes tailored for those with special needs.

Released to the public in July 2015, the LeBron Soldier 8 FLYEASE represents how fashion design can be a collaborative and widely beneficial practice.

“I hope that it changes the fashion industry as a whole to make clothing more accessible without losing that ‘cool factor,’” Walzer said. Although Walzer’s journey began with a simple request, it transformed into a project that showcases what can

Photo courtesy of news. nike.com

Fashion News | C | 16

in the loop

Libby Vilmar

Photo courtesy of news.nike.com

Fashion is all about transforming the old into something new, and H&M is taking this tradition a step further with an addition to its “Closing the Loop� initiative.

According to complex.com, H&M introduced a global sustainability clothing project in February 2013, which rewarded customers with store discounts if they brought in a bag of unwanted clothing. The success of the initiative has led to H&M’s first collection of denim pieces made from recycled textiles.

Implementing a closed loop for textiles has had a significant impact on reducing wasted clothing and minimizing the demand for brand new materials.

H&M has collected more than 14,000 tons of clothing from all of its retail locations across the world. The denim collection includes pieces that cater to men, women and children, and each item is made of 20 percent of recycled cotton from donated garments.

Roll Out the Green Carpet Brianna Kusilek In 2012, Emma Watson teamed up with People Tree, a handmade, ethical fashion line that utilizes 100 percent organic and Fairtrade-certified cotton from India, Bangladesh and Nepal. Watson has

continued her crusade to make an impact by taking part in the Green Carpet Challenge, a movement that uses the red carpet as a platform to discuss sustainable and environmentally friendly clothing.

In line with using chemical-free, non-fur materials, Watson is also urging

designers to practice ethical business in regard to labor. During her recent press tour, she took to Instagram to showcase the designs.

Photo from @emmawatson

High-Rise High-Rise

17 | C | Style

From

to

Caroline McKinley

Photographs courtesy Copelyn Bengel

C

Bohlyn business partner, Katelyn, with Copelyn on the rooftop of her Manhattan apartment building.

opelyn Bengel started a business in an attic.

An uneventful night in the summer before her junior year of high school led Bengel and her best friend Kate Bernard to the local Value Village in Charlotte.

“We bought a ridiculous amount of shorts,” said Bengel, “like way too many.” The girls spent that entire night re-making their shorts. Bengel taught Bernard to sew. Neither one slept.

The next day they each had six pairs of custom denim to call their own, as well as a plethora of patterns and design ideas. The two girls continued to create shorts over the next few weeks. Finally they came to the conclusion that “maybe we should make a business out of this,” said Bengel, now a 20-year-old sophomore and graphic design major at UNCChapel Hill.

The custom denim line was called “Bohlyn.” Bengel and Bernard ran their initial business proposal by their respective parents, and Bengel’s father encouraged the girls to write a formal business plan.

“We had to write about our brand, how we were going to market ourselves and where we planned on going with the business,” said Bengel. Finding a source of capital was the next step.

Bengel and Bernard took their

Style | C | 18

In Chelsea, Copelyn visited a unique art exhibit called Give Me Love

by David Zwirner.

parents to dinner and made a funding pitch to them. Their parents donated $500, a stud gun and merchandise tags, which Bengel said “wasn’t that much” but at least was a start. The girls then moved their workspace into Bengel’s attic.

“Little did we know it had zero air conditioning or heat,” said Bengel.

Sewing in the little attic, the girls sold the merchandise in a total of six trunk shows held at their homes. They sold pre-made denim shorts, dip-dyed flannels and distressed t-shirts. Custom shorts were also available to order.

“We never really had a lull,” Bengel said. “If we did, we were making stuff for the next show.”

The business was extremely successful throughout both girls’ high school careers. “Working with Copelyn is something you don’t forget,” said Bernard. “I still pick her brain all the time.”

The two made a website and launched a blog, but these platforms were difficult to maintain because the girls planned to attend different universities.

Bengel and Bernard are in the process of working through this challenge. “We don’t know what the next step is really,” she

said, but their current plan is to relaunch the website in the winter.

Bohlyn, however, is only the beginning of Bengel’s fashion endeavors.

This past summer Bengel was the buying intern for a high-end boutique in Soho, New York, called Kirna Zabete.

Begel got the job six minutes into a 14-minute interview.

She replaced Kirna Zabete’s previous buying intern who had recently graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Bengel inherited a position with a wide job description. She worked retail and events, and she also made a few coffee runs.

Her primary responsibility, however, was handling photographs of merchandise that storeowners selected at market. The tedious process consisted of precise labeling and making both lookbooks and boards.

“Sometimes it can be hard when you have three photos of black leather pants and you have to decide: Are these bootcut? Are these skinny?” said Bengel.

Upon completing the three month internship her boss suggested that she drop out of school and work

at the boutique permanently.

Bengel did not take her up on the offer, although she may still have a future in New York.

“Since I already had that experience, I’m not going to seek out the exact same thing,” she said. Bengel is currently toying with the idea of working for a magazine due to her interest in graphic design.

Bengel also already has her plans set for winter break. She will work in retail and assist with buying for a Charlotte boutique called Capitol. Bernard has no doubts about Bengel’s success.

“She is by far the most creative person I have ever met,” Bernard said. “I can’t wait to work with her again.”

Some samples from the Bohlyn line.

19 | C | Chronicles of Style

Spaniels and Sperrys Remington Remmel

H

ere in Chapel Hill, we behold many elements of North Carolina’s natural beauty: the forests, the rivers, the lakes. But on our day-to-day treks to and from class, there is something we never hear: Atlantic waves crashing on Carolina sands.

So why is it that every day hundreds of students at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill wear boat shoes?

Detached from its roots as a functional shoe for sailing, the boat shoe has become a staple in the wardrobes of preppy college students, landlocked or not.

The story begins in New Haven, Connecticut in 1935 with Paul Sperry and his cocker spaniel, Prince. As the story goes, Sperry, a sailor himself, took his dog Prince out on walk some winter eve. While he struggled to keep his balance on the slick ice, Prince leaped about with ease, paying no mind to the otherwise precarious surface.

It was in this instance that Paul Sperry wondered what it was about Prince’s paws that allowed him to achieve such a sure step.

After observing Prince’s feet, Sperry realized he might be able

to re-create the padding of a dog’s paw in a rubber-sole. He got to work—with a small knife, he cut a fine herringbone pattern into a rubber sole and attached it to a regular sneaker.

To his amazement, the new makeshift shoe provided a firm grip on ice and, more importantly, on a slick wet boat deck. It was from this prototype that the first boat shoe was born.

With additional modifications, including the 360 degree leather lace, the brown leather upper and the white non-marking sole, Sperry created an instant classic, the original boat shoe. Sailors around the country, wearing the new shoe, could finally get a firm grip on a wet deck. The U.S. Navy even utilized Sperry’s shoes for their sailors.

But that is where the shoe’s reach stopped; only recreational and professional sailors bought the shoes in its incipient years.

At this point in time, the shoes were purely functional. It was not until the U.S. Rubber Company purchased the company from Sperry in the mid-1900s that the shoe was mass-produced and sold more widely across the

United States under the brand Sperry Top-Sider.

In the 1970s the boat shoe began breaking the boundary between land and sea. It gained popularity because it evoked a nautical life of leisure, endorsed by visible American men like John F. Kennedy, who sported boat shoes on family on vacations at the beach. This surely helped transform the boat shoe from a simple leather moc-toe shoe into the iconic element of style we see today.

Worn without socks, the semi-formal shoe fit for summer appeals to college students looking for alternatives to beaten-up running sneakers.

Though all boat shoes have the herringbone, or “sipping,” pattern carved into their soles, few are ever used for their original purpose. Today they come in all colors and sizes, but they still do not stray too far from the original shoe made by Paul Sperry in 1935.

Every day hundreds of UNCChapel Hill students heel-andtoe around campus in their boat shoes, but probably very few of them know the shoes on their feet all started with a slippery deck and a cocker spaniel.

Checkup | C | 22 Checkup | C | 20

Craving Caffeine T Katie Plampton

hree exams, one lab report, two readings and a project all in the span of a week.

How can a college student get it all done and still make it to a football game on Saturday? For many, the solution is caffeine – and a lot of it.

A stimulant, caffeine increases blood flow to the muscles, opens the lungs and generally makes a person feel more awake. It is a staple of college life, and students with heavy workloads often swap caffeine for sleep. Coffee, energy drinks, sodas and 5-hour energy shots can be spotted in every library and study spot on campus, particularly during the late nights of finals week.

However, using caffeine to combat sleep deprivation can create a nasty cycle. Students may consume energy drinks because they have trouble staying awake during the day, but the caffeine keeps them from falling asleep at night. This shortens the length of time they sleep and in turn makes them want another energy drink to keep from dozing off in class the next day.

Additionally, the more caffeine a person drinks the higher their tolerance becomes, which only

perpetuates the cycle.

The FDA says a healthy adult can handle about 400 milligrams of caffeine a day, which equates to four or five cups of coffee.

However, doctors suggest limiting caffeine intake to 100 to 200 milligrams per day and warn that consuming over 1000 milligrams of caffeine can lead to irregular heartbeat, nausea, tremors, insomnia and death.

Though 1000 milligrams of caffeine sounds extreme, caffeine products marketed to young adults contain increasingly large amounts of caffeine, and doctors say caffeine overdoses are occurring more frequently on college campuses.

Energy drinks and powdered caffeine products in particular are gaining popularity on campuses, as they seem to give college students more bang for their buck. What many consumers do not realize, however, is that energy drinks are not subject to the same regulation as other beverages because of their classification as “supplements.”

In addition to caffeine they can contain other legal stimulants like guarana, ginseng and ephedrine.

These stimulants are often grouped with caffeine and labeled something like “Energy Blend” on a drink’s nutrition label, making it difficult to determine how much of each stimulant an energy drink contains.

Even worse, the FDA warns that 1 teaspoon of powdered caffeine is equal to 25 cups of coffee. No healthy person – much less a sleep-deprived one – can get away with consuming that much caffeine without serious side effects. Even if the repercussions are not immediately evident, too much caffeine can lead to chronic health issues like stomach ulcers, sleep disorders, depression and anxiety in the long run.

If you cannot kick the caffeine habit, no worries. Caffeine in moderation will not kill you.

In fact, naturally caffeinated beverages like tea and coffee can even be beneficial if consumed within the recommended servings. Just remember energy drinks are no substitute for sleep, and though drinking many may keep you energized and allow you to pack your schedule for a while, the resulting crash is inevitable.

21 | C | Health

IF WE’RE

talking body

Paulina Powierza

W

e live in a world surrounded by body images that grace our computer screens, television sets and magazines. These images usually reflect ideals of perfection, flawlessness and impossible standards that can make anyone go crazy. Photo-shopped magazine covers, super skinny models and the #thinspo trend all contribute to the culture of body shaming

and the desire to attain aesthetic perfection. College students, who are especially in tune with social media, are unthinkingly bombarded by barrages of bodyshaming material. So how are students supposed to stay healthy when they are constantly being told they must look a certain way? Unhealthy body images negatively impact students, causing poor self-esteem, crazy

dieting strategies and even eating disorders.

According to the National Association of Anorexia Nervosa and Associated Disorders, 91% of females on campus have succumbed to dieting as a way of keeping track of their weight. The statistics are daunting, demonstrating just how large an impact body image has on students.

HOW STUDENTS ARE TAKING ACTION Sarah Leck, a student at UNCChapel Hill, suffered from an eating disorder since middle school and decided to share her experiences by joining Embody Carolina last year. She is the cochair of the organization, which, according to its website, embodycarolina. com, is “dedicated to preparing students to serve as compassionate and effective allies to those struggling with eating disorders.”

The group has helped Sarah personally.

“Embody has helped me be more vocal and do more advocacy work,” she said. “I have been able to develop my passion through eating disorder advocacy.”

Leck believes that everyone suffers from body pressures. “(Negative body image) does not

discriminate based on gender or socioeconomic status,” she said. “I think we should also focus on men – not just women….

The body-positive movement should be for everyone.”

Eating disorders, according to Leck, are even more common on college campuses than they are in the United States in general.

“One-fifth of college students could be struggling: 2,000 females and 1,100 males could be struggling on this campus, enough to fit the Great Hall,” she said.

Leck thinks that everyone should get trained to help people with eating disorders,

and Embody Carolina offers training sessions. “I think everyone knows someone who is struggling, and all of those ‘someones’ deserve an ally,” she said. “One four-hour training (session) really is not that much to give up.” By training with Embody Carolina, students learn the signs of an eating disorder and become allies for other struggling students.

Leck is adamant about changing media that sends negative messages about body image.“Doing these forms of advocacy work has been a personal help for my recovery,” she said. “Through preaching this, you definitely grow to love yourself as much as you can.”

Staying confident and bodypositive is a good way to fight pressures unrealistic beauty standards impose. “We are doing really important work, so it is important for everyone to join in this,” Leck said.

Stay healthy by eating nutritious meals & exercising

This does not mean that you should go on a diet or exercise excessively, but instead accentuates the importance of living a healthy lifestyle. Exercising and eating nutritious meals boosts your self-esteem and mental and physical health. Find the right exercise routine for yourself. Go running, play tennis, take one of the many exercise classes that UNC-Chapel Hill has to offer. To boost your motivation, wear something that makes you feel confident in what you are doing.

Health | C | 22 explore nature or meditateFind your ‘Happy place’ It may sound simple, but one way to feel happy is by doing what makes you happy. This means different things for different people, whether it be finding a group of fellow nature enthusiasts, meditating in your room or attending religious services. Finding an environment that makes you feel happy will help you destress and dissect negative pressures from the outside world.

FIVE WAYS TO

stay confident WITH YOUR BODY

create a support group Leck argues that students should reject unhealthy pressures in their lives. If your friends are bad influences, “it is okay to eliminate these influences and find a new group of friends,” she said. Finding a group of friends who recognize your true beauty will help support you and create a ‘body positive’ environment.

take a social media break Scrolling through images of people on Facebook and other sites only makes you feel less confident about your body.

But there are ways to use social media to stay healthy and gain confidence.

“If you are looking for yoga and good recipes, it is going to be easier to have that good relationship with your body,” Leck said.

wear what you want In regards to clothing, “Dressing for your body type is a complete myth. I think you should wear what you love and feel good in it,” she said “If you want to wear a crop top, wear a damn crop top if it feels good. We should not be judging each other’s bodies….Body positivity happens at all sizes.”

23 | C | Arts

THE SONGWRITER’S TOWN playing and stopping and then starting over again.

This process is called the “magic hour.” For many, the period of time can vary; Kevin’s magic hour starts at 1 a.m. He begins

At the stroke of 1 a.m., something clicks into place in Kevin’s stirred Carly Peterson mind. He has been waiting for this idea all night. After he decides to ate into the midnight hour stick with it, surges of creative the light fell onto a sleek, outbursts flow endlessly, almost black Steinway permanently as if he has established completely in the corner left his body of the room. and entered A young man into a parallel sitting at the universe where bench behind nothing but the grand the piano sings piano pored sweet music over its ivory to the tune of and black keys. his thoughts The top of and emotions. the instrument “Music is such a was peeled powerful thing,” away as if to he said. “To show the inner have the ability workings of to do it yourself, its immense there’s no h e a r t . greater feeling.”

Only Kevin In a crowded Hutchens’ room full of head was people, it would visible through be an easy the opening task to pick b e t w e e n Hutchens out the top and as a musician. the heart of Marked by a Mignon Grabois | Photo Courtesy of Mignon Grabois typical artist’s the piano.

Hypnotizing build, he is sounds filled the room around his composing process typically slender and fair with a nearly him, swirling and looping around around 10 p.m., but he makes little boyish figure. He has masterfully each other, then changing progress, and ideas come slowly parted his dark hair to the left direction altogether. or not at all. “Ideas are fleeting,” side, which is longer and wavier Hutchens stopped suddenly to Hutchens said. “They are here than the right side buzzed close to close his eyes, as if his thoughts (one moment) and gone the his head. Reminiscent of the early were too brilliant, and he had to other.” The hours tick away only James Dean or greasers from the see them in his mind to grasp to result in a short melody or a 1950s, Hutchens wears the distinct them. In an almost trance-like couple of chords strung together getup of a Nashville musician: a state, he started playing a new that Hutchens will likely scrap white V-neck, cuffed, darkened variation of the melody. The when a new idea takes hold. jeans and laced-up, brown boots. process continued for hours,

L

Arts | C | 24 In proximity to downtown Nashville, the heart of the music industry lies on 16th and 17th Avenues South. Abundant record labels, music licensing firms, recording studios, publishing houses and radio stations line the streets of Music Row. Nashville has an extensive history in the music world as a songwriting hub. To further their careers, composers and songwriters of various genres flock to Nashville to partake in its artistic community.

The city is called the “five- to 10-year town.” For this length of time artists network with other writers, compile a catalog of their own music, perform in bars and music venues, and pitch their songs to publishing houses in hopes of getting a foot in door to the professional industry.

Similar to Hutchens, the routes of many songwriters and composers direct them to Nashville. Trannie Stevens calls the place the “epicenter of songwriting.” A petite and bubbly young woman from Waco, Texas, Stevens recently found her way to the city. “I had to move here to take [songwriting] seriously,” Stevens said.

Although an

outsider to the city, she is no stranger to the creative world.

Realizing her songwriting talents at 6 years of age, Stevens started out by writing songs about candy and gymnastics, but now as a professional her lyrics have gone from gumdrops to Top-40-like pop songs of love and heartbreak.

You don’t even know the half Of what loving me could be like Cause you give me clearance roses And plagiarized Shakespeare proses Chinatown bags Baby I’ve had enough of that From day to day, Stevens is always keeping her eyes and ears open to new ideas for songs. Lyrics can come from anywhere – from conversations with her friends about relationship troubles and the trials of everyday life, from stories told over the radio while driving in her car, or through her own experiences and current emotions.

“Simple,” a song she wrote during her freshman year at Baylor University in Texas, stands out in her mind from among

the vast catalog of songs she has written. She mentions that every time she performs the song, members of the audience sing along to her catchy phrases while others tear up over the authentic emotions presented in the lyrics.

“It is cool to see something that came from your heart and connect with people that deeply,” she said.

“As a songwriter that’s why you do it.”

Can I just pretend I don’t know you today And meet you again On a cold rainy day I’ll make you laugh And we’ll act like old friends It was so beautifully simple then Nashville’s communal atmosphere in the music industry allows for co-writing with different artists of every skill level. Since moving to the city, Stevens has fallen into what she called “the Nashville process.” Her routine begins with 30 minutes of chatting and catching up with whomever she is co-writing that day and indulging in a cup of coffee.

Trannie Stevens | Photo courtesy of Laura Lee Blackburn

25 | C | Arts

Kevin Hutchens | Photo courtesy Theo Meisner Kevin

“Even if you don’t want coffee you drink it because that’s just what you do,” she said. Then the transition to writing is initiated by asking the other person, “Do you have any ideas you’ve been thinking about lately?” If the process goes smoothly, the writer transports to a state of mind where lyrics flow easily and completes the song within hours.

A network begins by knowing a single person. Stevens met Mignon Grabois, a singer and songwriter, at the Texas Heritage Songwriter Association in Houston three years ago. Grabois attends Belmont University with Hutchens for the school’s Commercial Music program. With big captivating vocals, the dark haired singer emits confidence and knowledge of the music

industry. She relocated to the songwriter’s town when she was 14-years-old after traveling for a year between Houston and Nashville to co-write with her current mentor, Mark Nesler who is a professional in the songwriting business.

The decision to move was essential in order to be taken as a serious artist by industry professionals and to get her name “in the crowd,” meaning the circle of writers who have direct connections with professional writers and industry heads at major publishing companies. For artists and writers, “whatever you can do to keep your name floating,” such as playing writers rounds and live shows is the key way to advancing your career in the music industry.

Songwriters’ perform their songs

in what is called “writers rounds,” an essential part of Nashville’s music industry for years. Many people might recognize the term because it is often linked to the popular music venue, the Bluebird Cafe. As songwriters, Grabois and Stevens perform their songs to audiences through writers rounds.

The original formation of writers rounds were called “in the round,” which is where the songwriters sat in a circle with the audience wrapped around the outside of the formation. However, today most writers rounds are “in the row,” meaning the songwriters sit in a row facing the audience to perform each of their songs.

Grabois said she enjoys playing writers rounds because the song is stripped down to an acoustic guitar and a single voice to create

Arts | C | 26

Trannie Stevens | Photo courtesy Christopher Ray Thompson

Cuz I remember September That autumn sky flying by A lonely December, my pen and paper valentine And even that April rain Didn’t wash our memory away The popular saying “April showers bring May flowers” inspired Grabois for her song. April showers should be cleansing and bring happiness like the spring flowers of May, yet the character in the song comes to find that the rain only brings her more sorrow. Of the 90 songs Grabois holds in her music catalog, “April Rain” is her most intimate song because it was the first song she wrote by herself.

Hutchens understands the intimacy of writing but in a different way from songwriters.

There is neither right nor wrong, nor a systematic formula to tell composers what the next note should be. Releasing a piece of art or musical work is equivalent to allowing the public to look into the inner workings of his creative mind.

Occasionally, he becomes anxious about a piece of music – if the audience does not enjoy it, he can easily take this personally. “I can’t imagine something more personal than composing music,” he

Mignon Grabois | Photo courtesy Jackson Hargrove

a bare bones and raw experience for the audience.

As a performer and singer, songwriting is different for Grabois than for Stevens, who is primarily a songwriter. Grabois begins songwriting with the hook, the last line of the chorus and typically the title of the song.

When she thinks the hook is catchy enough, she moves on to the melody before coming up with the rest of the lyrics. “I find it hard to fit a melody around already written lyrics,” said Grabois.

Once set on a melody, she fills in the chorus and the verses. The tricky part about songwriting is compiling words in a unique way.

“There’s a million songs that are about the same thing, but it’s how you say it or how you put your twist on the words,” she said. The music world has thousands of heartbreak and faded love songs, but with “April Rain” Mignon transforms the meaning and emotion of a broken love.

said.

As time drifts away, the clock relentlessly ticks away from hour to hour. The creativity takes a physical toll, his body begins to slump on the stool and his dancing hands slow to a halt. He closes the top that reveals the inner workings of the piano’s heart, and he puts the instrument to rest.

As the lights turn out, the once sleek blackness of the Steinway becomes a dull shadow of a darkened mass in the corner of an ordinary room. Gone are the hypnotizing sounds that once filled the space, but the melodies continue to play on repeat in Kevin’s head. The following day will continue like any other, until 1 a.m. brings another “magic hour.”

27 | C | Cosmetics

Beauty and Josie Ballew

the

Bargain

W

hether you are a beauty guru or makeup novice, college is a time for experimentation. Change up your makeup palette with a few of these affordable products, which will add a new dimension to your makeup routine by accentuating your best features with a fall- and winter-inspired palette.

Eyeshadow: Makeup Revolution Romantic Smoked Redemption Eyeshadow Palette, $7.

Makeup Revolution makes many different palettes, but this one is perfect for this season, with its matte, dark greens and browns and shimmery pinks and neutrals. It will help you perfect the smokey-eye look.

Apply varying shades of either brown, grey, dark green or light pink to the eyelid, applying the lighter shade toward the corner of the eye and blending it into a darker shade starting at the middle of the lid. Find the palette at ULTA.

Mascara: Maybelline Volum’ Express Colossal Mascara, $6.99.

Say goodbye to your eyeliner. With a mascara as intense as this, your eyeliner would only steal the attention your gorgeous lashes deserve.

Foundation: Covergirl, Ready Set Gorgeous Foundation, $7.99.

Apply this all over your face with a brush, sponge or hand for even, full coverage. This product is oil free and provides great coverage. If coverage is still uneven, try using a powder to put a Contour: Maybelline Dream Wonder Powder second coat over any blemishes instead of buying $8.99. a concealer.

Contouring has recently become one of the most popular beauty tricks. Easy to blend, this powder works well because it allows you to start off light and Blush: Covergirl Cheekers Blush, $4.99.

This blush helps achieve a beautiful, natural add product slowly. Add powder between your jaw and glow because it is easy to blend.. When applying, cheekbones in a triangle shape with the base of the follow your cheek bone from the apples of your triangle at your earlobe. Blend it for a smooth effect. cheek up and out.

Connect | C | 28

What does it feel like...

Photographed by Andre Domingues

To Be in Love With Music?

Gentry Fitch

A

s I write this I am sitting on my back porch at home near Lexington, K.Y. The sunset is vibrant and the weather is crisp: 54 degrees, clear skies and a slight breeze. I sip a cup of Folgers and am covered in an old wool blanket my Papaw gave me.

A tune by the Avett Brothers plays in the background. It follows a folk sound with all the essentials: banjo, steel guitar, mandolin and fiddle. The song matches the moment to a T. Its rhythmic beat mimics my sense of peace at home; the soft melody complements the colors of the setting sun; and the lyrics pull together a reminiscent story. These moments clarify why I love music: it complements. It complements just as coffee and a blanket do on cool days and the colors of the fall sunset do on a vacation back home.

I have been in a committed and loving relationship with music for the past 18 years or so. The story began when my papaw introduced me to the sounds of Bluegrass. He taught me to pick

up a double-bass and play along to the tunes of his parents and his parents’ parents. This exposure to music helped me grow closer to my family when I was younger.

It drove laughter to the point of tears; parties centered around it; and it helped me empathize with the struggles of others. In essence, music helped me learn the world.

As I finally comprehended this, I began to discover how music helps me understand myself. Just as in any strong relationship, your companion intimately knows you. They know the complex nuances that make you happy, sad, confident, jealous, what have you. The music I listen to reflects that. I craft playlists of songs from all genres and moods to fit every emotion and every occasion. Even with subtle, day-to-day moments music awaits as a complement.

Living life with music is like reading a short story, which grants an evocative and creative look into someone’s unique situation. The array of experiences music shares

helps me articulate my story into something unique in its own right: practice makes perfect. I identify with artists’ work and assimilate their experiences into mine.

Being in love with music is just like any other loving relationship, though. On one hand, you have a readily available companion who knows you more than you know yourself, and on the other you have a relationship to keep up with – and relationships take effort.

Staying up-to-date with new music means I dedicate a significant portion of my time to discovering a new album instead of doing just about anything else (sometimes this becomes problematic). It means dropping $10 a month for no Taylor Swift but all of Alt-J and Kendrick Lamar. It means that sold-out concerts at Cat’s Cradle can ruin my day, but listening to the band somehow helps redeem the situation.

Music turns stories from noise into symphonies.

Amsterdamn

29 | C | Cityscape

You Fine Alexandra Hehlen

Concentric canals circling the city, rows of lopsided buildings leaning sideby-side, quaint coffee corners, bikes whizzing at frightening speed through the melee of pedestrians and cars. Amsterdam is an unmistakably unique place. Buzzing with locals in constant commute and enlivened by the confluence of old architecture and influences of young, Image by Multichill, Public License, no endorsement, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Amsterdam_heat_map_OSM2.png, modified. creative minds, Amsterdam can be beautifully overwhelming. Whether you visit for a day or a week, here is a list of mustdo’s and must-see’s affordable for all you college students traveling on a budget.

EAT Amsterdam is famous for its pannekoeken, thin pancakes served sweet with fruit and whipped cream or salty with veggies and meats.

One particularly prime restaurant is Pancakes Amsterdam, a hotspot for all kinds of pannekoeken ranging from smoked salmon to apple crumble. You can even order them sans gluten. The restaurant is small, but the wait for a seat will be well worth your patience.

Cityscape | C | 30

SLEEP If you ignore the extremely tight, steep staircases and the minimal decorative efforts, the Waterfront Hotel is a pretty good bet for a pretty good bed. It may not be a five-star hotel, but it is affordable and perfectly located. Right next to the popular flower market, a 15-minute-walk from the train station and a 15-minute bike ride from the Rijksmuseum, the Waterfront offers a cheap and convenient home base. The hotel even rents bikes to guests.

Location: Singel 458, 1017 Amsterdam, Netherlands

CAFFEINATE De Koffie Salon offers prime pastries and coffee in a modern setting. What makes this place an even bigger plus? Water is on the house (free water is not a thing in Europe) and wifi is free, too. Two must-orders are the mochas and the fig stroop waffles.

Location: Eerste Contstantijn Huygensstraat 82, 1054 BX Amsterdam, Netherlands

31 | C | Cityscape

GET ARTSY Amsterdam’s Museumkwartier, or “Museum Quarter,” is the place to be if you want to spend a day (or two, or three) in beautifully designed museums with seemingly never-ending installations. The Rijksmuseum masterfully provides historical context for many of its exhibitions, allowing visitors to learn about the Netherlands’ history through the lens of art. A must is the Van Gogh Museum, which takes visitors on a chronological journey through Vincent Van Gogh’s life. As visitors make their way up to the third floor of the museum, they can see Van Gogh’s painting styles change with the influence of events in his life and his exposure to other artists.

Rijksmuseum: Museumstraat 1, 1071 XX Amsterdam, Netherlands Van Gogh Museum: Paulus Potterstraat 7, 1071 CX Amsterdam, Netherlands

RELAX Two words: canal tour. It may cost you around 20 euros, but you won’t regret taking a boat tourof the city, which has beautiful architecture (and beautiful people, by the way). Some tours offer on-board beverage services.

Cityscape | C | 32

LEARN Other than the Museumkwartier, a mustsee for anybody is the Anne Frank House, which has been turned into a walk-through exhibition that includes the room in which Anne and her family hid during World War II. Try getting there in the early morning or later evening; during the day the line to enter is extremely long.

Location: Prinsengracht 263-267, 1016 GV Amsterdam, Netherlands

SHOP Amsterdam’s mainstream shopping district is located on Kalverstraat, but if you prefer a more local approach to shopping, head over to the Jordaan, a far less touristic area of Amsterdam complete with an assortment of boutiques and restaurants.

Also make sure to check out the vibrant flower market on Singel, a street along a canal.

33 | C | Travel

heaven

quarantined

Rob Gourley

O

n July 25, I boarded a Volvo semi-sleeper on the outskirts of Delhi and prepared for a 14-hour ride that would last through the night. On the journey to the snow-covered Himalayan peaks, the adventure begins long before arriving at the trailhead. Since there is no airport or train station in the town of Manali, the starting point of the Hampta Pass trek, a bus from Delhi is the most common way to get there.

I was thrown awake in the early hours of the morning as the bus began the climb into the Himalayas. There was, of course, no seatbelt to hold me still as it barreled down the dark, windy mountain road as we approached the startpoint for the trek. Traffic in India is known for its madness, and this bus ride was no exception.

Drivers rarely stay in their lane or abide by any rules.

One taxi driver said there was only one rule to follow: do not get hit. When Indian driving culture

meets small mountain roads, things get dicey. I tried to sleep on what felt like a roller coaster, only to be woken up while cornering the next turn. Lights from small homes outlined the ridges as we traveled northward through the mountains.

By morning, we reached Manali.

The small mountain town rests in a rich, green valley surrounded by mountain tops that disappear into the clouds. The Kullu Valley

is known to Indians as the land of the gods because of its beauty. Manali’s atmosphere is reminiscent of an Indian Asheville, and the cool weather offers a break from the searing summer heat that suffocates Delhi.

This is where I first met my trekking group. When backpacking in an unfamiliar area, we had a professional guide, who gave us some assurance of safety for backpacking in the

Travel | C | 34 unfamiliar area. Each trekker in the group was Indian, but there was no language barrier because everyone spoke English fluently.

The lead guide, Sanjeev, was a local, and it was clear that he was not paid a suitable wage. Most of the guides had shoddy gear, but they were such skilled outdoorsmen that they could function better than even the trekkers with the newest equipment.

During the trek, Sanjeev hiked a difficult stretch of snowy trail in a pair of Crocs. This man was tougher than the elements.

The trail began in the tall-pine forests outside of Manali, but we quickly left the tree line as we climbed upward.

As we walked, we passed by a group of women leisurely hiking through the valley with vibrantly colored clothing. They did not stop to talk,

but I assumed they lived nearby.

We also passed by cows. Seeing a cow at high altitude was a shock

to me, but this was India. Cows were everywhere. None of the other travellers batted an eye.

In a display of arrogance, one member of the group, Rajiv, shot out ahead of everyone else, complaining about the other group members lagging behind.

This place, however beautiful it was, had its own way of demanding respect from travellers. Karma struck the following day: Rajiv’s legs began to cramp, and he suddenly found himself struggling to keep up. We were reminded that these gloriously rugged mountains did not forgive mistakes.

As we ascended over 3,000 feet the second day, the air became cooler, and we found ourselves walking through meadows of wildflowers that extended up the mountainsides.

At our next campsite, the peaks around us disappeared into the turbulent clouds. It was only

35 | C | Travel

during the sunset that the sky cleared to reveal a snow-covered peak at the end of the valley. The nearly full moon illuminated its imposing form.

That night, the guides told us the legend surrounding the path through Hampta Pass. In Hindu mythology, this area is known as the trail to heaven. It is said that all souls journeying into the afterlife pass through this valley, and some are unfortunate enough to be left along the way. Even if one’s soul got lost in this valley, the place was beautiful enough that staying there forever might not be so bad.

As we continued to ascend on the third day, we climbed into the clouds and found ourselves traversing steep slopes of rock and snow. Crossing the pass was treacherous. Nearly vertical stairs were built into the trail, remnants of a long-past time when this path acted as a trade route between the two adjoining valleys. Since the snow was hard, we had to kick footholds as we walked to ensure we did not slip down the slope into the boulders below.

We came across a number of false summits before finally reaching Hampta Pass at 14,200 feet, hyperventilating to fend off headaches caused by the thinness of the air. Compared to the oxygen level back in Manali at 6,700 feet, the difference was

noticeable. Clouds blocked the view but failed to diminish our sense of accomplishment and honest joy for being alive. We then continued into the next valley on our route. The next campsite was still miles away.

The trail descended sharply down a boulder field into Siagoru Valley. There was a distinct change in climate once we traversed the pass. Compared to the previous lush, green valley, this one was bone dry.

The valley walls were the color of dirt and rock, and the only water ran in a small river fed by glacier melt. The glaciers themselves protruded from the s n o w banks on peaks that shot up thousands of feet from the valley’s floor.

This campsite was our final stop before finishing the trek. That day was Ani’s birthday, and the cook baked an excellent cake for the

occasion. In the evening we also celebrated the feat of completing the trek. Re-entering civilization always feels like a grand accomplishment after spending days in the wilderness.

Leaving the mountains is bittersweet. Life in the outdoors is demanding yet elegant in its simplicity.

High-altitude trekking is a thrill, especially in the Himalayas of Northern India, but these mountains draw all kinds of travellers, from seasoned bikers to Russian hippies.

While these people come from diverse b a c k g ro u n d s , they all share a common goal: to experience the spirit and natural beauty of these mountains.

The Himalayas exist on a different scale from those in western North Carolina or even the Rockies, and not until you see them looming in front of you, not until you immerse yourself in the landscape, can you truly see why they are so legendary.

37 | C | Camera Obscura

Leather and Chrome Andre Domingues New Orleans is a vibrant, dynamic metropolis located at the crossroads of history and culture. Its bustling Franco-Spanish colonial birth, luxurious antebellum childhood, bluesy Jim Crow adolescence and its more recent, tempestuous adulthood have been studied at length by historians, artists and musicians alike. In the modern world, the Crescent City reveals itself reluctant to let go of its past. Walking down any of the Big Easy’s famous French Quarter streets, visitors will sense the omnipresent intersection of old and new. The characteristic screech of rusty streetcar brakes clashes with the cacophony of infantile horns emanating from the mopeds swarming on busy Canal Street. Iconic, syncopated jazz tunes spill out of crowded bars and darkly lit restaurants, mixing with today’s latest pop hits, blasting from pale white earbuds that snake their trailing tails into miniscule, skinny-jean pockets. Most striking, at least to the automobile enthusiast, are the processions of classic cars and motorcycles that patrol these busy streets.

And at the oversized steering wheels of many of these masterpieces of patent leather and high-polished chrome sit fresh-faced millennials. From the parking lot to the auction house, an increasingly enthusiastic group of artistic, New Orleanian youths are spearheading a movement to keep the city’s classic automobiles fueled, repaired and ready to ride into the 21st century.

1968 CHEVROLET IMPALA SUPER SPORT 2011 Soniat St., Uptown

1988 YAMAHA VIRAGO XV250 4924 Prytania St., Uptown

1960 CHEVROLET CK DELUXE 2039 Dufossat St., Uptown

1963 CHEVROLET CORVETTE STINGRAY 2015 Vicari Auction, French Quarter

1963 CHEVROLET CORVETTE STINGRAY 2015 Vicari Auction, French Quarter

1956 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE 2015 Vicari Auction, French Quarter

1952 PONTIAC CHIEFTAIN 2015 Vicari Auction, French Quarter

1947 FORD SUPER DELUXE COUPE 2015 Vicari Auction, French Quarter

Seeds of Style, Roots of Revolt Michael Shanahan

T

here’s always a routine. At 8 a.m. blurry eyed, sweat-pant-clad students trek through the amphitheater to the sounds of General Johnson and Chairman of the Board’s “Carolina Girls.” By 8:10, the class has started its first “country club” accounting problem.

At 8:40 it is break time, and a tired cheer rises as a student who identified the clip from Bill Murray’s “Groundhog Day” catches a tossed Tootsie Roll reward. At 9:15, students shuffle out as new crop of tired pupils emerges for the 9:30 class. Unbeknownst to the mass of students, the man teaching at the lectern started his routine hours before they all even rolled out of bed.

Photograph courtesy Griffin Hart Davis.

45 | C | Skender is an accounting professor at the Kenan Flagler Business School and has an iconic sense of style. Photgraph by Alexis Fairbanks.

“In my head, I have 10 items,” said C.J. Skender, an accounting professor at UNC-Chapel Hill. “It goes: the suit, the pen, the pocket square, the shirt, the cufflinks, the watch, the tie, the socks, the braces and then the shoes. Those 10 things are sort of a pattern, and they all follow a similar story.”

Today he adorns pirate suspenders, pirate socks, pirate cufflinks and striped, seersucker pants. In his office crowded with plaques, photos and papers, Skender chuckles while describing what he wears. He is all thick, silver hair and big smiles.

Google “Accountant.” You will find images of drab suits, forced smiles, frumpy blouses and atrocious ties. Skender, however, breaks away from this stereotype every morning he gets dressed.

One day his outfit will consist of Jolly Roger cufflinks; the next,

the theme will be completely different.

“I try to make accounting fun and dress fun,” he said. “I’m not sure that every student would agree that it’s fun, but I try to make it that way.”

This spirit of nonconformity has permeated through many disciplines at UNC-Chapel Hill, a university founded in a state with deep, vibrant traditions and history.

Libby Rodenbough and her band mates from Mipso – all UNC-Chapel Hill graduates – have added to this movement in the region’s music scene. Branded as “North Carolina’s renegade traditional music,” according to the band’s website, Mipso has drawn from the traditional music of the South and added its own spin.

“We play sort of acoustic

bass, Americana music,” said Rodenbough. “We are influenced by a lot of time-honored music in North and South Carolina. It definitely has a contemporary feel.”

On stage, Rodenbough and Mipso embrace the three-part harmonies and Appalachian influence of North Carolinian bluegrass and transform them into their own sound, marked by subtle elements of contemporary pop. Both clean-cut and eclectic, Rodenbough’s sense of style stems from this theme.

“I like doing the crossdressing thing, which isn’t really weird because any woman can wear anything without it being cross-dressing,” she said.

A state with history in the textile industry, North Carolina has always been considered the epicenter of Southern style. From

| C | 46 to those with casual interests in accounting. He often leaves a lasting impression.

“It can be pretty intimidating at first,” said Cameron McNeil, a student currently enrolled in

“

I’m the only one up there in a skirt.

“

the birth of prep to the argyle basketball uniforms designed by Alexander Julian, the state has been the home of those pushing the boundaries of tradition through fashion.

For both Skender and Rodenbough, fashion has become a major catalyst through which their talents, deviance from the norm and personalities are realized. They employ fashion as a tool for empowerment, breaking from tradition and leaving lasting impression in their field and on those around them.

Known for his unique teaching style and affable personality, Skender has become an icon at UNC-Chapel Hill.

Holding positions at Duke University, UNC-Chapel Hill, and N.C. State University, Skender has taught a wide array of students from business school hopefuls

Skender’s BUSI 101 “Managerial Accounting” class. “But when you get to see his personality and hear him talk about his clothes … it relaxes everything a bit.”

The clothes have become a trademark of Skender’s and in many ways embody his attitude to accounting. “I went to work in public accounting, and I always wore suits” said Skender. “When I began teaching, I think that was when I told myself to wear suits but also wear other clothes like shirts with French collars or cuffs.”

Students across campus know Skender for his wardrobe.

Although his outfits are each meticulously thought out, the elements of his personal style lie in happenstance.

“There was a book out 40 years ago called ‘Dress for Success’ by ( John T.) Molloy, and I read that,” he said. “But I think (how I dress) is based on things I’ve accumulated along the way.”

Each item Skender wears holds a specific and special

Rodenbough and her bandmates. Photograph courtesy Leon Godwin.

47 | C | meaning.

His clothes and accessories are gifts from students, harken back to memorable trips or represent special moments with his family.

Skender’s style represents a give-and-take with the University.

On some days he dresses to champion Carolina basketball, and every class he makes an effort to keep students engaged and captivated – even if that means describing why he wore certain cufflinks that day.

Rodenbough also experienced a mutually influential relationship with the university and its unique culture. Her experiences as a student, in many ways, helped develop her musical interests and passions. “A lot of the stuff I studied at Carolina was folklore-related,” she said.

“I learned a ton about the music of this state and this region from that.”

This period of discovery and development was mirrored by a similar discovery of style and personality. “I’ve always been very into clothes for as long as I can

Rodenbough and her bandmates. Photograph courtesy Kristen Abigail.

remember, but I think that came you are listening to or what to a peak when I was in college,” you are wearing, that’s where it Rodenbough said. Her time as a becomes a way to express yourself student directed her to a specific within the limits of how fashion style that matched her newfound is defined in the economy,” she interest in the folklore and the said. “I like to think that the “thrift traditional music of Carolina. store approach” allows me a little “It had to do with the autonomy from the capitalist abundance of excellent thrift machine side of fashion.”

Even in vastly different stores in the area, as I am a diehard devotee of thrift stores,” fields, Skender and Rodenbough Rodenbough said. “Now I have a have both realized and embraced closet full of zany stuff.” the role and power of clothing in Her excursions from campus their lives. to the area’s thrift stores provided “You feel good about yourself a vital outlet for Rodenbough. “As if you’re dressed the way you soon as I had a car, I probably want.” said Skender. “I think there would go to a thrift store once a week at least,” she Rodenbough and her bandsaid. mates. Photograph courtesy Not only does thrift Leon Godwin. store shopping allow Rodenbough to embrace notions of bluegrass tradition while adding her personal flair, but it also offers her a way to break free from what she sees as a capitalistic system.

“Once you become conscious of what music

is power (in having) confidence in yourself because of your clothing.”

This confidence has been a major influence for Skender and defined much of his professional career. His work in the private sector and in the classroom has earned him numerous honors and awards. Although many see his unique wardrobe as a supplement to his character, Skender sees it as a component of his profession and relationship with others.

His style helps inform how

| C | 48 he approaches his work. Skender’s clothes act as a fundamental connection between him and his students.

His elaborate wardrobe helps make him an approachable professor.

“It does reflect what I’m thinking or feeling but it also gives me some inspiration,” said Skender.

Rodenbough has a similar appreciation for the way clothes can foster identity and

make impactful statements. “It’s something that I enjoy putting thought into,” Rodenbough recounted. “I think it’s important to be thoughtful because it is involved in a lot of other power structures.”

Since its formation, Mipso has re-defined conventional expectations associated with bluegrass music. Rodenbough also critically considers her role as a female musician within the industry as a whole.

Skender teaches BUSI 101, Managerial Accounting, in this lecture hall. Photograph

by Alexis Fairbanks.

“I think a lot about being the only girl in the band. I’m the only one up there in a skirt,” she said.

“I usually think about the fact that I’m going to be setting myself apart from the rest and how feminine or sexy I choose to go.”

For her, there is an expectation to make a conscious effort with clothing. “I think I think a lot more about my clothing than the guys do,” she said. “They are out there thinking, ‘Well, what plaid shirt will I wear?’”

Clothing enables her not only to construct her identity but also to place herself as individual in a greater context. “I think you have to take all of the joy that you get out of dressing yourself with a grain of salt because it means so much beyond you,” she said. “It helps you see the culture you’re in and the income bracket you’re in and the economy you’re in.

Both Skender and Rodenbough have deep respect for what they wear. Though their fluid style constantly adapts to new influences, it carries an immense responsibility and importance.

“I think (clothes are) a powerful thing that can be both good and bad,” said Rodenbough.

“I’m not saying everyone has to be a fashionista, but it is important to be aware of what clothes mean.”

For these Carolina leaders, style helps advance their work, make a true impact in their community and influence those around them. Fashion gives them the ability to accentuate their creative nature, passions and personality. Where actions and words may seem too brazen a method to exhibit personality, clothing and style serve as an alternative statement. Clothes allow wearers to be open about their views of the world and their place in it.

“The way that you look says something about you and consequently tells a story,” Skender said. “I think it’s an important thing.”

PRO VOCA TION THESE PAIRINGS MAY BE DARING, BUT THE BEST STATEMENTS ARE THOSE THAT INVOLVE A BIT OF BRAVERY. IF ONE PATTERN IS LOUD, THEN THESE OUTFITS ARE A CHORUS. WATCH, LEARN, AND - IF YOU DARE CHIME INTO THE MOVEMENT BY CREATING YOUR OWN PRINTED ENSEMBLES AND POSTING THEM WITH THE HASHTAG #COULTUREINPRINT. PHOTOGRAHER | ALEXIS FAIRBANKS STYLISTS | COPELYN BENGEL, ALEXANDRA HEHLEN, CAROLINE MCKINLEY, MICHAEL SHANAHAN MODELS | SYDNEY BOUKEDES, PAMBU KALI, HANNAH LEE, JUHI PATEL, KAT TAN

LOCKER BLOOM Shop similar at H&M and Topshop.

Satchel Cambridge Satchel Company; clutch Gap

I 51 | C |

sometimes feel that a pattern is almost a fashion statement in itself.� - Jil Sander

| C | 52 TODAY SHOW (bottom left) On Hannah (left): dress, scarf Marimekki; boots Rumors Boutique in Chapel Hill.

On Sydney (right): Shop similar at Topshop and H&M. PRETTY IN POPCORN (right) Jacket Marimekko; pants Tommy Hilfiger.

BOHEMIAN NAPSODY Shop similar at Topshop, H&M or Free People.

55 | C | GOT ME IN CHAINS Dress Cape Town, South Africa; boots Rumors Boutique in Chapel Hill.

| C | 56 OFF THE GRID Jacket Trina Turk; pants shop similar at J. Crew.

TRI-ANGEL Dress Marimekko; shoes shop similar at H&M or Topshop.

FEMME FLEURTY Shop similar at H&M and Free People.

MODERN MUSE Shawl shop similar at H&M; dress shop similar at Ann Taylor.

| C | 60

ON THE SPOT (left) Shop similar at H&M or Topshop.

RUG RAT (right) Shop similar at H&M and Free People.

FLOWER GIRL Jacket Oilily

61 | C | Caught our Eye

Starting in Stilettos

Alexandra Hehlen Editor in chief Alexandra Hehlen was the acting interim executive director at Dress for Success New Orleans this summer. Here is just a small snapshot of her experiences.

M

ichelle Peavy silently stared at her image in the mirror.

Something was off.

No, it was not her disheveled red hair, rebelliously sticking out in tufts around her forehead.

Neither was it her teeth, stained and askew. It was the extra 21/2 inches.

They were the most expensive shoes she had ever worn. Coach, genuine leather, at least a $200 retail value. She was getting them for free. Without warning tears welled up in her eyes. She looked so beautiful in the suit.

The tailored jacket emphasized

her waistline, and the skirt hugged her curves. Her crimson floral blouse added a splash of coordinated color.

But it was the heels that got her. They really were something, the leather stamped with a geometric pattern and carefully stitched together with a cream thread. Her feet at that moment could have been photographed and featured in a catalog were it not for the monstrous tattoo inked across her right foot. The inscription spelled “P-NUT,” the nickname and permanent reminder of a boyfriend turned abuser, a father to her children, a man who, even in the presence of a restraining order, remained persistent in his pursuit of her.

His nickname buzzed across her phone screen. He would not stop calling.

Even an hour in the boutique,

an hour away from her children, was tough. Beneath the tears and the tattoo there seemed to exist a drive – a willpower to escape her situation and P-Nut, to become a self-sustaining single mother. And maybe, just maybe, these shoes and this suit were the way out.

Along the boutique’s skyblue walls stood racks neatly crammed with dozens of bags and hundreds of clothes.

Michelle’s apparel hung in one of two dressing rooms outfitted with crystal chandeliers and framed, inspirational quotes.

The place looked like a real boutique. And it was – except everything was free, and individuals had donated the clothes.

“Dress for Success is a global not-for-profit organization that promotes the economic

Caught Our Eye | C | 62 independence of disadvantaged first joint at nine years old. First women by providing professional it was weed, then alcohol, then attire, a network of support and cocaine, and finally, at age 21, the career development tools heroin. Both the New Orleans to help women thrive in work native and her husband were and life,” according to the organization’s website. The boutique at 6117 Magazine Street is one of over 140 global affiliates and serves about 10 women a week.

Clients initially arrive at the boutique for an “Interview Suiting,” an outfit head-to-toe. After they gain employment clients may return for an “Employment Suiting,” five outfits.

These employed women can attend monthly Professional Women’s Group meetings, which feature speakers on professional development topics and offer boutique vouchers as an incentive for attendance.

Dress for Success New Orleans is often the first step in a new chapter for clients, who have overcome tremendous obstacles and traumatic Nikki Wattigney experiences. Personal poses for a photo in shoppers at the her new interview boutique translate outfit styled by each woman’s inner Alexandra Hehlen. strength of character to an external equivalent: a power- addicted. They each had jobs woman outfit. Each client’s suit and shared a daughter, but acts as an enhancement of her “Doing drugs was a full-time personality, a testament to her job as well,” she said. “We had to resilience. Clothes can tell a have the drugs so we wouldn’t story, and these women’s stories be sick.” are ones worth telling.

Nikki felt too dependent on *** her husband, so she divorced Nikki Wattigney smoked her him in 2008. Alcoholism ensued.

She tried rehab for a year but reverted back to her habits. Her addictions eventually brought her to Grace House, a New Orleans shelter dedicated to helping people recover from substance abuse.

The community and programs there helped Nikki until she qualified as job-ready. In late June she rang the doorbell at Dress for Success New Orleans. The time was right for a makeover.

A personal shopper picked out a few possible suits for Nikki, hanging them in her dressing room. In a matter of minutes Nikki emerged a vision in black and green. The dark, sharp suit hit her in all the right places, and her blouse’s chartreuse collar popped over the lapels. Her legs looked a mile long, the trousers descending from her hip straight to the ground. Green, suede shoes polished the look.

She looked like a hotel manager, and that was her dream.

She certainly possessed the personality for that type of job. The green tones in her outfit brought out both her emerald eyes and her confidence. From beneath the initial lack of self-esteem and the nervous wobble in Nikki’s voice emerged an openness, a warm heart that refused to be chilled, even by her history. Her undimmed smile and bright voice, enlivened with a typical

63 | C | Caught Our Eye Louisiana drawl, lent her an air of approachability.

After receiving help with her resume, a service the organization readily provides, Nikki strode out of the boutique’s cobalt-colored doors, portfolio and shopping bag in hand.

Would she find a job? Uncertain.

But something had changed – her self-confidence seemed even higher than the stilettos on her shoes. *** In July Dress for Success New Orleans shared a quote by Sophie Kinsella, the author of the “Shopaholic” series, on its Facebook page. If you look good, you feel good,” the quote read.

“

“

If you look good, you feel good,

Even though the professional shoppers at the organization may hear confessions of single moms or of domestic abuse victims more than confessions of buyer’s remorse, Kinsella’s words hold true for anyone from any walk of life.

Every woman has a strut, and just like self-esteem and confidence and bravery, the strut can lie dormant until something powerful enough comes along to awaken it. For these clients that something was a pair of patent leather pumps, a sparkling purple necklace or a patterned scarf.

The boutique served 324 women in 2014 and cranks out success story after success story. Lynette Simon joined the organization after she was laid off, and today she has both an

impeccable fashion sense and a manager position at Payless ShoeSource in New Orleans. “I think my confidence level has grown tremendously,” Lynette said. “I am a better asset for any company that I work for now.”

When Kennedy Pierre joined the organization she was struggling to find a stable job, but now she feels more positive.

“I just got a…sisterhood,” she said. “People were so willing to help me, so I didn’t feel like I was necessarily alone if I ever had a problem.” She works as a freelance makeup artist and eventually would love to open her own tattoo parlor and salon. *** Marlene Dumas grew up at 2204 Bienville St., a 12-bedroom, four-apartment mansion her grandmother bought in 1948.

“A lot of musicians lived in (the manor) during segregation because we were only eight blocks from the French Quarter,” she remembered. “Black people couldn’t live and couldn’t go in the French Quarter, but the black musicians who did…would come and stay with my grandmother.” Music surrounded Marlene, who met artists like Tina Turner and started taking piano lessons at age 16.

Marlene eventually moved out, but when her mother, father and grandmother fell ill she dropped out of the workforce and came back. “(They) were getting sicker, sicker, sicker. So I just moved all three old people into

(the) big house,” she said. “The whole family was there at one time.”

A string of deaths ensued. A pregnant Marlene got in a car crash in 1992, and her child was stillborn on Feb. 9, 1993.

Her father passed away in April of that same year. In 1994 she gave birth to her only son. 1996 marked the death of her mother, and in 1997 her grandmother passed away.

In this time Marlene’s own home on Iberville Street caught fire, and in 2000 Marlene filed for divorce. “(My husband) took my son with him, (and) I had buried all the people in my family,” she said. “I was trying to regroup.”

She found Dress for Success New Orleans in 2000. At the time the boutique was in a mall across from the Mercedes-Benz Superdome in New Orleans’ Central Business District. “(The organization) was an outlet to give me the initiative and the training to come back to my professionalism,” Marlene

Caught Our Eye | C | 64

The boutique at Dress for Success New Orleans.

said. She started attending the Professional Women’s Group meetings.

“And then there came Katrina,” she said with a wry laugh. The 2005 hurricane left the boutique a shambles, an open target for looters. The Superdome turned into a storm shelter, a melting pot where criminals and families alike took refuge.

2204 Bienville was in no better shape. Although the manor stood dilapidated, Marlene continued to live there for two years. Authorities eventually demolished the mansion and sold the land, leaving her to live in a shelter from 2007 to 2011.

“Yeah, well, it’s okay,” said Marlene, 59 years old and everpositive. “I’m still here, and I like to go out and party, so I’m alright.”

Through her struggles and to the present day, Marlene stuck with Dress for Success New Orleans. She came to the boutique in July to redeem a three-item voucher from a Professional Women’s Group meeting. She chose a chic, silver suit that for her, “exemplifies

positivity can go a long way. In Marlene’s case, the organization “(has) been the biggest beacon of light for me from the day I walked in.”

For Nikki the suit did its part.

She completed three interviews at a Hyatt hotel in New Orleans, and, despite her visible tattoos and the three DWI’s on her record from an era past, she got the job.

“Oh my gosh, do (clothes) ever make a difference,” she suddenly said, almost taken aback by the sheer magnitude of the impact a simple suit had on her life. “It what I feel inside.” A few weeks feels good to have clothes that later Marlene got a job with look good and (that) you feel AARP’s Senior Employment good in.”

Program.

Despite her battle with degenerative myopia, Hehlen in front she has been taking of the boutique’s computer courses for windows, which sighted individuals and she dressed in UNC-Chapel Hill completed training for and Duke colors. the blind. Although she cannot see music notes, the former pianist hopes to learn the keyboard with the help of musical braille software. Her ultimate goal is to open her own medical billing company.

Marlene never stops pushing forward. “Just put one foot in front (of) the other,” she said. “Don’t give up.” *** Michelle has not further contacted Dress for Success New Orleans, but at least her outfit gave her a spark of hope.

Sometimes a little

65 | C | Contention

Young, Styled, Cate Alspaugh

U

nless it was Christmas or Easter, my mom always let me dress myself. This may have led to one too many outfits featuring a velvet red dress with sparkly pink jellies, but I was adorably unfashionable, and it was the 90’s. I was born in 1994, so for the first colorblind years of my life, my fashion sense was pretty on par with high fashion. At the very least, I remember wearing a white cami and faded jeans, and if that’s not 90’s grunge, what is?

After my early days of quirky apparel, I became more selfaware, and my clothing choices became more moderate. Gone were the days of dress up – I walked into kindergarten and learned that Lisa Frank made friends and Pooh Bear was average. And the stakes only continued to increase with my age. In middle school I felt peer-pressured to be preppy, and in high school, it was hard to identify with fashion at all during phases of self-doubt and apathy. Fast-forward to 12th grade, a time when I couldn’t shake my confused interest in fashion, but my growing passion for social justice made dress feel especially impossible to value.

But then one word changed my entire approach to fashion, and I’ve never looked back.

The word is empowering and

& Free

affirming. The word celebrates and refuses to exclude. The word is my grandmother’s devotion to Oscar perfume, pink lipstick, gold jewelry and perms. It’s my Ugandan friends’ colorful dresses, plaited hair and loud jewelry. It is the joy I found wearing a red velvet dress with sparkly pink jellies, and the joy I find in being myself.

This word is “style.”

Yves Saint Laurent is famously quoted as saying, “Fashions fade, style is eternal.” I have decided not to fade.

This shift in my mindset occurred in 2013 during my freshman year at a small college in Massachusetts. Shamelessly inspired by Shailene Woodley, I decided to buy only used, second hand and vintage clothing for a year. This decision began a journey that took me to countless thrift and secondhand stores where I sorted through racks of the most eclectic clothing I had ever encountered.

The sheer amount and diversity of clothing quickly trained my eye for unique and relevant pieces.

That year showed me the freedom inherent to cultivating

Cate Alspaugh

a personal style. Allowing myself to develop my style enriched my life because what I wear gives me the freedom to explore and express who I am. Style connects me to my journeys in life and the places I will go.

Do not let yourself fade whenever seasons change. Look at fashion, but embrace style.

Seasonal Soriée

Coordinate Me | C | 66

Caroline Pirozzolo hen it comes to dressing for holiday festivities, the line between just enough sparkle to make the holidays magical and so much shimmer you rival the Christmas tree can be, well, fine. The holidays are the perfect time to feel extra glamorous, but how much is too much? The trick to making sparkle and shimmer work can be boiled down to one simple rule: a little bit goes a long way.

Pick one sequined or otherwise bedazzled piece and style the rest of your look around it. A black beaded dress is a super glam take on the classic LBD – the beads add the right amount of grown-up sparkle. For a look that wows, add other statement pieces like a furry jacket – it does double duty by adding drama to your outfit and keeping you warm on the way home.

A classic, strappy heel works best, letting the rest of your look do the talking. Polish off the rest of your ensemble with festive accessories and bold makeup.

Oh, and don’t forget the gifts and goodies for friends and family! Still haven’t done your shopping yet? No sweat – we have a few ideas.

W

Coat Urban Outfitters; dress Topshop; shoes Zara