The Costume Designer - Spring 2011

The Official Magazine of the Costume Designers Guild

Costume Designers Guild Local 892窶的.A.T.S.E. 11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor Studio City, CA 91604 costumedesignersguild.com

Non-Profit Org. U.S. Postage Paid Santa Ana, CA Permit No. 450

vol. 7, issue 2

10

16

24

FEATURES Clothes on Film . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Chris Laverty: Blogger and Cheerleader

DEPARTMENTS Editor’s Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Union Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 President’s Letter Executive Director Labor Report

The Costume Department . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Meet the Assistants History of Dress

In Focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Location: Wilmington Boldface Names

What’s On/What’s In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD 11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor Studio City, CA 91604 phone: 818.752.2400 fax: 818.752.2402 costumedesignersguild.com

Scrapbook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 2011 CALENDAR

GENERAL CDG CORRESPONDENCE cdgia@costumedesignersguild.com

May 24

COVER CD Ann Roth re-defines Mildred and Veda for the HBO miniseries Mildred Pierce

June 1 2 6 20

Mixer with Local 705 at Vitellos Interview Skills at Local 80 Design Showcase UCLA Eboard Meeting General Membership Meeting, CDG Studio 800

July 4 21–23

Office closed Comic-Con

August 1 Eboard Meeting

Spring 2011 The Costume Designer

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EDITOR’S NOTE

E

veryone has something different on their minds this spring, as you will see by the wide variety of topics covered in the Union Label letters. My thoughts run the gambit as well. I too am recovering from the emersion of the fourth quarter aka Awards Season. The winter magazine, overlapping with the CDG Awards, leave me needing to thank some people myself.

Firstly, the never mentioned—hard-working team at IngleDodd.

Our fabulous publishers who make our magazine, newsletter, directory AND tribute book happen—cost-FREE to the Guild. Jeff and Jody Ingle who lead the ship with kind hearts and a dry sense of humor, Dan Dodd and his team, including Timothy Fitzpatrick & Jennifer Dodd who book the voyage with a smile, Gilda Garcia, Erica Ruter-Christensen, and Ruth Kaplan who have helped me lay out every magazine, and Mike Chapman who scours every word. Thank you all for never saying “no,” never saying “it’s too late,” and for always understanding that the details really do matter. I would also be remiss in not thanking F Ron Miller, the very talented graphic designer who has helped me make the past three awards books so much more stunning than I could have imagined on my own (and in full disclosure is my boyfriend—thanks to JL Pomeroy inadvertently introducing us to collaborate via cyberspace).

On the topic of cyberspace, I’ve found that more and more of my work as a Costume Designer relies on my computer. With projects moving at the speed of light, and scripts changing even faster, I find myself in need of research at a moment’s notice. Research for that first meeting, research for the studio presentation, research for the costumers and so on. Most recently for me it’s been the mixed bag of dance, military, detectives, waitresses, extreme sports and a little Kim Kardashian. Period research is considerably more available, but how do you research “real” people, or reference for a 50-something woman for example? Try Match.com and J Date! Seriously. You have to be very resourceful but it’s all out there. Facebook—also a great way to uncover regular people and their family photos.

Once you’ve done the research, what about your website? The days of approving your costumes with only the director and producer are basically over. In the current climate of studio and network approval, are you making your life easier with a website for your fitting photos? It’s also the perfect venue to share the research you’ve compiled with Hair & WE APPRECIATE THE ONGOING Make-Up. You might consider giving in to SUPPORT OF OUR the more efficient way of getting everyone CORPORATE SPONSORS on the same page in a timely fashion. It’s much easier than you think.

DIAMOND LEVEL Western Costume What does all this have to do with the magazine? With all the time I’ve spent, chained to my desk, multitasking, I’ve uncovered the other secret source for research. The blog. When it’s simply not out there, and Google Images and the like are coming up empty, it’s the bloggers who will come through. The blogger is SAPPHIRE LEVEL someone who has made it their mission to Warner Bros. Studio Services focus on a time or a place or a topic that might be exactly what you’re looking for.

Somewhere in my surfing, I tripped onto Clothes on Film, a delightful blogsite that is featured on page 10.

Embrace the Web and enjoy the RUBY LEVEL ride. There’s so much out there for the International Silks & Woolens learning.

Until next time, Deena Appel dappel@costumedesignersguild.com 4

The Costume Designer Spring 2011

International Silks &Woolens

costumedesignersguild.com EDITOR/PHOTO EDITOR

Deena Appel ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Bonnie Nipar PRESIDENT

Mary Rose mrose@costumedesignersguild.com VICE PRESIDENT

Van Broughton Ramsey vramsey@costumedesignersguild.com SECRETARY

Beth Pasternak bpasternak@costumedesignersguild.com TREASURER

Marilyn Matthews mmatthews@costumedesignersguild.com EXECUTIVE BOARD

Deena Appel dappel@costumedesignersguild.com

April Ferry aferry@costumedesignersguild.com

Salvador Perez sperez@costumedesignersguild.com

Cliff Chally cchally@costumedesignersguild.com

Felipe Sanchez (Illustrators) fsanchez@costumedesignersguild.com BOARD ALTERNATES

Robert Blackman rblackman@costumedesignersguild.com

Julie Weiss jweiss@costumedesignersguild.com

Mark Bridges mbridges@costumedesignersguild.com

Sharon Day sday@costumedesignersguild.com BOARD OF TRUSTEES

Peter Flaherty pflaherty@costumedesignersguild.com

Jacqueline Saint Anne jsaintanne@costumedesignersguild.com

Karyn Wagner kwagner@costumedesignersguild.com

Wendy Chuck (alternate) wchuck@costumedesignersguild.com EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Rachael M. Stanley rstanley@costumedesignersguild.com ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

Suzanne Huntington shuntington@costumedesignersguild.com RECEPTIONIST/SECRETARY

Cheryl Marshall cmarshall@costumedesignersguild.com PUBLISHER

IngleDodd Publishing ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Dan Dodd 310.207.4410 x236 Advertising@IngleDodd.com

UNION LABEL PRESIDENT’S LETTER

WESTERN COSTUME CO.

Springtime Thank Yous to Everyone Dear Members, The great feeling from our very successful 2011 CDG Awards still resonates as everyone continues to talk about what a special night it was. With each new accolade, I say to myself, “How are we going to top it next year?”

Well, I suppose we need to find another Julie Weiss! Unfortunately, there is no double for Ms. Weiss. Julie’s talent combined with her personality and magic touch make her one of a kind. The actors who have collaborated with Julie clearly respect her commitment and love her spirit. And they sure showed up in full force to honor her. Never before have six mega-stars fought to present to one designer—all happily sharing their stories on stage before handing Julie the first of its kind, the Disaronno Career Achievement in Film and Television Award. Julie’s acceptance speech was equally as memorable. We all laughed until we cried. It was a wonderful night that we will never forget.

There wasn’t enough time allocated for my speech to pay tribute to those who worked so very hard behind the scenes to make our 2011 awards such a hit. I would like to take the time and space here to thank the following people who made things happen behind the scenes. Firstly, the team from jLINE Group: Sarah Cowperthwaite (CDG Awards Event Producer and Talent Booker), who brought in the most incredible group of celebrities this year and Deme Stavrakas (Assistant to JL Pomeroy), for producing the 2011 montages with Q&A Video Production’s Quinn Monahan and Gregory Gast as Editors. Great work! Thank you. CD Bonnie Nipar who fit our mistress of ceremonies (this year in Oscar de la Renta) and dressed our on stage DJ Eve Salvail. Robin Richesson, one of our gifted CDG Illustrators, who rendered the beautiful period & contemporary tennis players on the invite and tribute book covers. Needless to say, our fabulous presenting sponsor, Lacoste, was very pleased with the artwork. And I cannot forget my Co-chair Deena Appel, who worked endlessly with JL Pomeroy to secure our honorees for the night as well as being totally responsible for the invitation, tribute book and nominee projections seen throughout the night. Thank you. Last but not least, my thanks to JL Pomeroy, who is our most devoted partner and who should be an honorary member at this point. Without her, there would be no CDG Awards!

Less than a month after the awards, the sobering news of a magnitude 9.0 earthquake hit Northman Japan; as unbelievable tsunami photos were seen over and over again on television. I wrote about it in the CDG Newsletter and encouraged donations to the Japanese Red Cross via the Consulate of Japan. Not more than a week or so later, I had to have spinal surgery. Word was out and I received Products and Services. so many good wishes and kind notes from Designing stylish...

That make banking just a little easier! colleagues and members for a fast recovHere at MICU we’re showing off our talent and letting our creative ery. My deepest thanks go to all of you for side show, by finding ways to bring you simple banking. your thoughtful caring and kindness on both accounts. I sincerely appreciate your * Bill Pay - Convenient Money Management thinking about not only me, but also the * New Auto Loan rates as low as 3.25% up to 60 months * Used Auto Loan rates as low as 4.25% up to 60 months Japanese victims at this very difficult time. * Free access to over 28,000 CO-OP Network ATMs and 800,000 I am doing very well, and I am so grateful ATMs worldwide through links to the NYCE, STAR, Cirrus, for having such decent caring people as my Pulse and Plus networks * Car buying services through Autoland, Redbook, & Executive friends.

With love and respect, Mary Rose mrose@costumedesignersguild.com

She was Tzetzi Ganev’s right hand for over 20 years and for those of you who don’t know her, let us introduce Nancy Arroyo. For the last three years she has been Western Costume’s Head Cutter/Fitter and has successfully tackled challenging projects including making custom clothing for musicians and film actresses. We are proud to add that her garments have been seen on the runway during New York Fashion Week for several seasons.

MILLINERY From crowns to caps to cloches, veteran milliner Harry Rotz draws on more than 30 years of experience to create the perfect look to fit any designer’s needs. His unique expertise ranges from perfectly copying period hat pieces to creating the most imaginative headwear for fantasy movies.

TAILORING While many call themselves custom tailors, few truly live up to the name. Nestor Alban

From fine men’s custom suits to spacesuits and everything in between, Nestor and Jack are perfectionists in every detail of their work.

CORRECTIONS

For DETAILS, call us toll free at For DETAILS, call us us online toll free 1-800-393-3833 or visit at at 1-800-393-3833 or visit us online at www.musicianscu.org www.musicianscu.org

Studio City Branch

11440 Ventura Blvd, Suite 101 Studio City, CA 91604

Toll Free: 800 / 393-3833 Phone: 323 / 462-6447 Fax: 323 / 462-4411

Toll Free: 800 / 393-3833 Phone: 818 / 763-7005 Fax: 818 / 505-8407

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The Costume Designer Spring 2011

LADIES COUTURE

and Jack Kasbarian have been Western Costume’s head tailors for the past 12 years.

Car Leasing * Our free checking account offers you both ATM and free debit cards with REWARDS. We also offer CURewards™ for our VISA credit card * Free Online Teller and Money Maestro Audio Teller * Real Estate loan services through West Coast Realty (personal service). If we can’t fund the loan we’ll help you find a lender who can help you.

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MADE TO ORDER

BOLDFACE NAMES: CD Ileane Meltzer is currently designing the USA series In Plain Sight. CD Maria Schicker’s film still from Dunkel (shot in Germany) was incorrectly identified.

SHOE SHOP Mauricio Osorio has been creating custom footwear for over 25 years at Western Costume. Among the items on his resume are shoes and boots for Russell Crowe in “3:10 to Yuma”, Kate Winslet in “Titanic” as well as replica Ruby Slippers and several pairs of shoes for Shaquille O’Neal. In addition to his skills with custom shoes, Mauricio manufactures a wide variety of leather goods. Mauricio’s leather garments have been seen on the runway during New York Fashion Week.

L.A.’s Only One Stop Costume Shop 11041 Vanowen Street | North Hollywood CA 91605 | P 818.760.0900 | F 818.508.2190 | www.westerncostume.com

UNION LABEL EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR GONE BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN In a technical world where the latest thing is only the latest thing for a matter of months, we have become a society that too quickly, tosses many of our valuable assets to the side. We are working to change that.

The Costume Designers Guild was formed in 1953 and many of our earliest members are still working in the industry or are recently retired. We at the Guild realize the significant value of the members who have come before us and set many of the precedents that we enjoy today. We have been exploring new ways to keep our heritage and history alive and felt that our retirees have long been an ignored resource. Our newly formed Retirees Committee, headed by Sharon Day, will begin to develop ways to honor our past members and keep them a vital part of our growing legacy. This May, we will hold the First Annual Retirees Luncheon. This will allow many of our past members to rekindle relationships and share their rich history with each other as well as with our current members. The interest in this event has been overwhelmingly positive, showing us how important this new program will be. We are now developing Master Classes to be taught by our retired members as well as our current members. Many of the techniques of days gone by are still just as valid today, and there are no better teachers than the original generation of Designers who implemented their ideas into a fledgling new industry.

We have also found our retirees to be of great service as we begin to partner with universities and colleges on how to better prepare students to meet the demands of this ever-changing industry. While all things change … many things remain the same.

We are expanding our website to include an area just for retirees and those about to retire. As our members approach the final years of their careers, they are faced with many daunting decisions. The new website area will provide information on Medicare, pension issues, how to prepare financially for retirement and how to mentally prepare oneself for a life without the daily grind of work. Many of our recent retirees have expressed the feeling that after years of working 12 to 14-hour days, they are suddenly at a loss for how to fill the day in a productive manner. They also miss the daily contact with other members and coworkers in the industry. The new website area will open doors to opportunities for volunteer work in the community and the industry, secondary job possibilities, and social events to help keep our retirees connected to us, their sisters and brothers.

We are very excited about this new program and look forward to the many new ideas our active retirees will bring to the table.

In Solidarity, Rachael Stanley rstanley@costumedesignersguild.com

LABOR REPORT There is so much to report, as collective bargaining rights are under attack from the newly elected governors in several states trying to link budget deficits with the workers’ rights to bargain collectively. We demand these governors be called to account and admit that the budget deficits are not caused by workers’ right to collective bargaining.

Entertainment Industry Data Tailored for Your Needs

On March 26 in downtown Los Angeles, 20,000 people rallied in support of the workers in Wisconsin in their effort to recall Gov. Scott Walker and to “kill the bill” taking away workers’ bargaining rights. Other elected representatives in Wisconsin who were in support of Walker’s attack on workers’ rights are being recalled.

On April 4 at the AME Church of Los Angeles, 2,500 people gathered to honor the memory of Dr. Martin Luther King, who was murdered April 4, 1968, in Memphis, Tenn. Wisconsin bratwurst provided by IBEW was served to all and Rev. James Lawson and William Lucy, who were with King the day of his assassination, were the key speakers. They reminded us that workers in Wisconsin are fighting the same fight in 2011 that King and sanitation workers fought in Memphis in 1968. Rev. Lawson stressed the point that only the people speaking out in unity can preserve workers’ rights, and that we need to be committed to protecting workers’ rights across the United States and around the world.

The May Day Rally for Immigration Reform numbered around 25,000 supporters, who gathered at Broadway and Olympic downtown (pictured below). Speakers addressed federal immigration reform while immigrant students supporting the Dream Act chanted “Stop Deporting Dreams.”

In Solidarity, Betty Madden bmadden@costumedesignersguild.com

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Spring 2011 The Costume Designer

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Clothes on Film CHRIS LAVERTY hris Laverty is a professional Costume Design Cheerleader. And Clothes on Film is the evangelical pulpit from which he preaches all things Costume Design.

Via blog, he can profile the subtlety of costume choices made in contemporary films as well as the P.D.—Period Dramas (aka Press Darlings). Current releases or a loving look back, the site may elaborate in great detail on every costume worn by the lead character or choose to dissect a singular costume for the importance it brings to the plot.

Rich with frame grabs to illustrate each and every nuance of design. Clothes on Film will freely let you know if they smell a costume misstep but it seems to come from a more sympathetic than critical place.

Launched in mid-2009, Clothes on Film has already been noticed by film buffs, costume enthusiasts and fellow bloggers alike. In its first year, Clothes on Film was named “Internet Pick of the Week” by The Guardian and recently nominated

by Total Film as “Blog of the Year.” Currently attracting 100,000 hits a month, Chris has interviewed the likes of CD Jenny Beavan who believes “Chris’ passion for film clothes and provocative questions must help the general understanding of what we do. He even has an idea for a pair of trousers for Sherlock if we ever do another!” Judianna Makovsky has said that her cyber dealings with Chris have been “delightful. His pleasure in finding out the little details that most people don’t notice makes his a challenging but rewarding interview.” I stumbled on the site last year when Black Swan was receiving a slew of press surrounded by a swirl of controversy. Chris was one of the few who covered the film from the perspective of the film’s Costume Designer, Amy Westcott. His unusual understanding of the difference between costume and fashion stayed with me. I couldn’t help but check back week to week to see what he would cover next.

Born in the UK, Chris worked at Pinewood Studios as a teen before graduating in York, with an honors degree in the-

C

Belle de Jour 10

The Costume Designer Fall 2010

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12 Apr '11 ater and film. He wrote a few short films, worked on shorts and documentaries, interned at a production company but always looked at Costume Design as he puts it, “like a kid staring through a sweetie shop window.” Now, he finds himself caught in a whirlwind of interest in Costume Design. He actually can’t write quickly enough for his readers. Not a day goes by without a series of emails asking for coverage on a particular film or show, and often the queries about who’s wearing what. A question Chris is not particularly interested in.

Chris’ curiosity about costume was initially peeked by what he perceived as the “fashion perspective.” He says, “I remember watching Casino in 1995 [CD Rita Ryack] at the cinema and being blown away by the sheer color and variety of the clothing. It got me thinking of the craft and how it had affected my emotions throughout. Sometimes awe, sometimes funny, sometimes shocking—I was intrigued by the journey.” His love of the fashions of the 1970s led him to a desire to know how he could replicate those looks. From there Chris explains, “I delved deeper, out of an obsessive need to understand it, and became more fascinated by the what than the why.”

A critical goal of this magazine is to educate the public about what we do. How can you convincingly express the difference between costume and fashion when the line is so hazy? In following Chris’ blog, I realize how much we can underestimate our audience. In his words, “I perceive costume as having so many functions: it can consciously or subconsciously inform narrative, tell a story, reinforce a story, misdirect a story, define character, drive plot, interpret meaning or establish setting—or all of the above. There is so much going on with costume if you take the time to look. One of my favorite movies for costume is Belle de Jour 1967 [Hélène Nourry], because you can choose to interpret the clothes or just ignore them entirely—an immersive experience, either way. The meaning is there, if you choose to infer it.”

April 11: How to Read Costume on Film “Costume Design remains one of the most misunderstood and underappreciated filmmaking arts. Far in excess of merely ‘dressing’ an actor for their role, Costume Design is discourse.

A film can be read via costume; sometimes overtly, sometimes subtextually. Not just the conspicuous sci-fi or period drama, but contemporary stories set within a familiar world in familiar attire. On screen even the most rudimentary item of clothing can take on meaning.” Chris goes on to say, “The ‘costume film’ is saddled with the responsibility of satisfying an audience based purely on the protagonists appearing historically accurate and/or alluring. Yet the costume film does not exist.

There are period dramas, comedies and love stories, but the costumes enhance the narrative, they do not define it.” For more blog excerpts, check out the sidebar.

Clothes on Film’s readers (and its blogger) are equally enamored with television Costume Design. We often ponder the question, ‘Is there a difference between film and television

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The Costume Designer Spring 2011

11 Feb '11 April 12, 2011

Public Enemies: Costume as Plot Public Enemies is chock-full of accurately recreated and as such eminently covetable, early 1930s era garments, as designed by multiOscar winner Colleen Atwood. Perhaps most enticing of all, however, is how one particular garment, a plain wool overcoat, actually powers the narrative of the film. It is the coat that killed John Dillinger.

February 11, 2011

28 Jan '11

9 Nov '10

Basic Instinct: Sharon Stone, Devil in a White Dress “There is far more going on here than an absence of underwear. It is the white dress that exposes her true character. Catherine [played

by Sharon Stone] is so intelligent she can hide in plain sight. The ‘twist’ in this tale is only really apparent because we underestimate her deviance. Beautiful and smart? There must be a catch. We spend the rest of the movie searching for it.” Quoting CD Ellen Mirojnick in an inclusive interview, “I like the choice of white,” Mirojnic states. “It is in opposition to black. There is always tension in opposition. I like to use white in unexpected ways.”

January 28, 2011

Black Swan: Amy Westcott Interview Amy Westcott: “As a Costume Designer, you oversee every stitch that goes before the camera. You are responsible for everything, whether an item is designed by me, purchased, farmed out to a specialized item designer or a combination of all of these. I think that is greatly misunderstood. The job is a 24/7, a five- or six-month commitment.”

November 9, 2010

TRON: Legacy Light Suit Costume In TRON: Legacy, the light suit exemplifies two key facets of the mythology: light, as in energy, and ‘disc’—lifeblood of the wearer. This suit is a meticulously designed ‘second skin’ that integrates seamlessly into director Joseph Kosinski’s vision of the TRON story universe.

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31 Aug '10

17 June '10

Costume Design?’ Not surprisingly, Chris has an instinctively wise take on that debate. “I see TV as having far longer to establish character. A movie might have minutes, even seconds to introduce a character, particularly a minor one. Costume Design in film does not have the luxury of time or growth; conversely, TV more often than not does have time to build a character, season after season. I so want to write an article about The Wire [CD Alonzo Wilson]; the sheer scope was immense. From the dealers’ street wear, to the detectives’ cheap suits, to the stevedores’ virtual uniform of plaid shirt and slacks—everything was immensely well researched. Take Wendell Pierce as Det. William ‘Bunk’ Moreland, for example. He was the smartest dressed detective right from the pilot episode, but it took until season three for his clothes to become noticeably luxurious and flashy.

Known for his style, Bunk’s costumes are even referenced in dialogue, and it became one of the traits that defined him.” Chris is also keenly aware that “Budget is also more of a factor in TV. If a show is successful, it will likely have more money to play with in proceeding seasons.” He also appreciates that “unless the show in question is period, the cash rarely makes its way to the Costume Department.”

Clothes on Film regularly goes to the source for exclusive interviews with Costume Designers such as The Tudors’ Joan Bergin. Joan explains that “she creates for characters, not catwalk.” Chris points out, “This is a common misconception of the Costume Designer’s role. Sometimes there is overlap, intentional or not, but costumes are intended to serve the narrative; any allusion to contemporary fashion is either intentional if it is part of the plot, such as in The Devil Wears Prada or inferred by the audience. Chris has also been known to link to “outside” stories that share his enlightened perspective. Harper’s Bazaar recently did a feature story titled “Costume Designer Ann Roth: I Don’t Dress Movie Stars” by Veronique Hyland. Chris included some of the highlights on the site… “I don’t dress movie stars; I dress actors who are playing characters… I think about how much money they spent, where they go, does she have a drawer for silk slips?” said the legendary Roth while reconceiving Mildred Pierce for HBO. “Such understanding of not just period but status of the characters living within it cements Roth as one of the best in the business. Even if she continues to inspire fashion trends with her costumes for Jane Fonda as Bree Daniels in Klute (1971), for her this is a byproduct; it was never the goal.” Ms. Hyland reported for Bazaar in March.

Though based in the UK, more than half of Clothes on Film’s devoted readership is from the United States. In the end, Chris is broke but happy sharing his passion with his readers and fans.

“My absolute dream is to get some cash behind the site so I can concentrate on content rather than technical problems (I do it all myself—self-taught and way out of my depth!).” His other dream would be to interview Costume Designer-turned-Producer Anthea Sylbert (Rosemary’s Baby, Chinatown, Shampoo). I for one, am looking forward to that posting!

August 31, 2010

The Big Lebowski: Jeff Bridges in a Pendleton Cardigan “Of all the mismatched, gaudily patterned and colored attire Jeff Bridges as ‘The Dude’ wears in The Big Lebowski (1998, directed by the Coen Brothers), the ubiquitous Cowichan-type Pendleton cardigan sums up his character best of all. Threadbare, scruffy and in need of a good wash, the pair sure do go well together.”

Designer: Mary Zophres.

August 3, 2010

The Bourne Ultimatum: Paddy Considine Wears a Man Bag Paddy Considine plays The Guardian journalist Simon Ross in The Bourne Ultimatum (2007).

And thanks to Costume Designer Shay Cunliffe, he wears a Belstaff man bag.

June 17, 2010

Jennifer Grey in Dirty Dancing: Baby Grows Up In addition to script, acting and direction, the most iconic moments in some of the bestloved films are defined in no small part by the costumes. This can most certainly be said of Dirty Dancing (CD Hilary Rosenfeld, 1987) in that classic scene where “Nobody puts Baby in a corner,” Johnny Castle’s (Patrick Swayze) half-unbuttoned black shirt and equally rebellious leather jacket with up-turned collar define him as the bad boy ‘your Daddy would never approve of,’ whilst Baby (Jennifer Grey) wears a floaty, pale pink dress that gives her the grace of a ballerina and the elegance of a dove reflecting her much purer nature.

To become a regular of Chris Laverty’s blog, bookmark www.clothesonfilm.com

Deena Appel dappel@costumedesignersguild.com 14

The Costume Designer Spring 2010

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THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

JESSICA PEEL SCOTT

STACY CABALLERO-FOUSHEE

CHRISTINE CANTELLA

MEET THE ASSISTANTS

Christine Cantella didn’t seek a life in costumes… In 1993, this Texas native was in college studying to direct when she lobbied for an internship with the ADs on a feature in San Antonio. Instead, she landed in the costume department with CD Deena Appel. Appel and supervisor Tangi Crawford were so taken with Christine’s “dedication, incredible resourcefulness, and riotous sense of humor” that they insisted she reconsider her path. Christine ultimately “ran away with the circus.”

Christine’s first film with Colleen Atwood was finished before it started. Her big break was prepping Minority Report for six months—until it was shut down and later designed by Deborah Scott. She went on to work with other designers but seemed to really connect with Colleen. Mission: Impossible III was when it all paid off—with encouragement from ACD Michelle Harper, Christine was hired as Colleen’s Assistant Designer. Since then, her experience has been more creative and rewarding than most could hope for. From Planet of the Apes, Big Fish and Lemony Snicket, to the Oscarwinning Chicago, Memoirs of a Geisha and Alice in Wonderland, Christine has been working on the biggest and the best of projects. Colleen says, “Christine stood out. She has expanded her skills with each challenge.

I rely on her input and people skills greatly.”

Growing up with a mother who taught her about fabric and construction, Christine feels honored to learn from the “creative genius” of Dale Wibben, Karen Naser and Deborah Ambrosino. She is forever grateful to Colleen, “an amazing decision maker who has taught me not be too precious with things you can’t control.” Christine adds, “Being a good listener is an asset. Be supportive and honest. Offer your opinion to the designer directly, not in a fitting or with the director. Offer up the very best of what you can find and give the designer time to think.”

The melodic sound of a Southern drawl that booms through the workroom, belongs to the one and only Stacy Caballero-Foushee.

The quaint and eccentric Donaldsonville, Louisiana, is the eternal home to ACD Caballero, who can often be found passing out bags of Cajun-flavored potato chips to her crew from a recent visit!

Now an ACD on intricately costumed movies, Water for Elephants being her most recent, Stacy works with a list of incredible talent: CDs Kym Barrett, Michael Kaplan, James Acheson, Michael Wilkinson and Jacqueline West. The road to becoming such an all-star ACD took years of dedication and hard work. Stacy’s dedication and patience paved the way through a maze of experience, from apparel design classes in Louisiana to theater in Chicago to assisting on soap operas, and everything in between.

CD Jacqueline West adds, “Stacy is the best Assistant Designer I have ever worked with.

She could easily be designing her own projects and soon will if I have anything to do with it.”

Kym Barrett describes Stacy as a “wonderful collaborator and tenacious spirit.”

Bursting with personality, Stacy charms her way through the workroom of her “extended family” and insists that relationships based on trust will help you best achieve the costume designer’s vision. Michael Wilkinson expounds, “Stacy is the kind of ACD I dream of—someone who cares as much about the designs as I do. A perfectionist, she will not rest until the issue is solved.” Stacy advises ACDs to “check, check and recheck everything. It’s sexy to take responsibility for your mistakes!”

Whenever she’s not at work, Stacy is busy with her 3-year-old daughter Violet and husband Ben. Balancing such a hectic career and motherhood isn’t always the easiest, but Stacy makes it look possible with a smile permanently adorning her face

Just like Dorothy in the The Wizard of Oz, Jessica Peel Scott hails from Kansas. When her mother gave her a copy of Mary Quant’s Quant by Quant, she was hooked. She studied design at the University of Cincinnati. Craving a deeper education in Costume Design, she got her master’s degree at Carnegie Mellon.

Always gravitating toward film, Peel left Pittsburgh to try her luck in the west. Her grad professor warned, “You’ll be back on the East Coast in a year.” Fifteen years later, Jessica is happy to call Los Angeles her home.

Currently working on her 12th film with Gary Jones, Oz: The Great and Powerful, Jessica’s yellow brick road has been full of good witches. Upon her arrival in Los Angeles, Jessica blind-called Carnegie graduate CD Ann Roth who helped her get a job at Western Costume. CD Ellen Lutter gave Peel her first assisting position and Ann Roth later recommended her to CD Jones. Peel elaborates, “I was so lucky to be suggested to Gary Jones, he’s so kind and generous.” Their affection is mutual. Jones articulates: “Jessica has had a very positive attitude and sunny disposition, which she brings to every film, along with her extensive knowledge, attention to detail, and wonderful organizational skills. She conducts herself with great respect for the work and the people who do it.”

Calm and down to earth, Peel recommends to budding ACDs “call everyone, you never know what will pan out.” Jessica loves that every day brings new challenges.

She finds herself relying on her Kansas-bred diplomacy, making her a reliable center for any department. Jessica especially enjoys made to order and putting her experience as a fabric shopper to good use. “I like building from scratch, the way it makes an actor really think about the character.”

Peel also knows “there’s no place like home” with her 4-year-old son Thomas and supportive husband.

nellspeak@mac.com

stacycaballero@gmail.com

jpeelscott@charter.net

can’t live without her chihuahua Jack, International Silks & Woolens 16

The Costume Designer Spring 2011

can’t live without sunglasses, platforms & a good attitude

can’t live without my family & iced tea Courtney Hoffman courtneyehoffman@gmail.com

THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT

IN FOCUS

HISTORY OF DRESS 1800 –1810

location, location, location: MALLS Cotton Exchange

BEAU BRUMMELL: An English dandy who promoted well-tailored, understated clothing of exquisite taste, worn with a fabulously tied crisp cravat.

CRAVAT: Square of cloth, folded diagonally into a band and wrapped around the neck to tie in front.

EMPIRE:

Napoleon’s reign (1804–1815), a style of dress inspired by the Greeks: simple, slender, high-waisted dresses of light fabrics worn with flat shoes.

HESSIAN BOOTS: At first, military boots worn by Hessian soldiers (from Hesse in Germany), knee height, low heel, slightly pointed toes, heart-shaped top with trim & tassels.

MANTELETTE: Wide triangular scarf or short cape worn over the shoulders, trimmed on the edges with fur, lace or ruffles. Sometimes the front edges reached below the knees.

PELISSE: Long coat, opening CF, often with raglan sleeves & diamond-shaped back, fur trim, and military braiding. Sometimes the sleeves were long enough to partially cover the hand.

Inspired by the jacket worn slung over the left shoulder by Hussar cavalry officers.

RETICULE: Also called Ridicule or Indispensible; handbag for carrying the fan, handkerchief, etc., as the dresses had no pockets.

Soft fabric, with drawstring top most common.

SPENCER: Small jacket, high waisted, usually darker than the dress it was worn with.

Named for the Earl of Spencer, who removed his tails from a coat in the mid-1790s. (A Spencer was also worn by men.)

STOCK: Band of stiffMUSLIN:

A sheer, unbleached cotton fabric, originally made in Mosul, Iraq, later Bengal, India.

The desire to reproduce this fabric in Europe was an impetus for the Industrial Revolution. Eventually, also became synonymous with trial garments made out of the cloth.

PANTALOONS: Tight-fitting trousers to the calf (up to 1817), then to the ankle, first worn by working-class men during the French Revolution to differentiate themselves from the upper class, who wore breeches. From the Commedia dell’Arte character Pantalone.

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The Costume Designer Spring 2011

ened cloth around the neck tied or buckled at the back.

321 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 343-9896 Eight restored 19th-century buildings house 30 unique specialty shops and restaurants.

The Forum

1125 Military Cutoff Rd., Wilmington, NC 28405 www.shoptheforum.com Shop specialty boutiques in Southern style and grace.

Hanover Center

3501 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 Across the street from Independence Mall.

Stores like Pier 1, Stein Mart, Great Outdoor Provision Co., Talbots, Shoe Shack, SAS Shoes Independence Mall

Island dP Passage assage

3500 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 www.shopindependencemall.com Belk, Dillards, JCPenney, Sears, Forever 21, The Buckle, Gap, Lane Bryant, Motherhood Maternity, Abercrombie, Authentiks

(Downtown + Lumina Station) 4 Market St., Wilmington, NC 98401 (910) 762-0484 More of a bohemian aesthetic, a Wilmington fixture.

Lumina Station

Oliver

1900 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403 www.luminastation.com Independent high-end boutiques. Beachtheme oriented, with handmade jewelry and unique one-of-a-kind clothing.

Mayfaire Town Center

Main St. & Military Cutoff Rd., Wilmington, NC 28405 www.mayfairetown.com New outdoor mall, with Belk and an eclectic mix of both chain stores and favorite local boutiques. Also has the town’s only Barnes & Noble and movie theater.

BOUTIQUES Beanie + Cecil

Lumina Station 1904 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 509-9197 This store is a MUST! Inspired fashion from established and emerging designers. Lines include Phillip Lim, Helmut Lang, Rag and Bone.

Edge of Urge

Illustrations by Robin Richesson rrichesson@costumedesignersguild.com Text by Marcy Froehlich mfroehlich@costumedesignersguild.com

18 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 762-1662 Men’s and women’s young hip clothing for the very cool DIY set. Lots of great jewelry.

Hip store t with ith an n LL.A. A vibe: ib B Badgley d l Mischka, Haute Hippie, Vince, William Rast, DL 1961, Black Halo. Vintage Chanel jewelry, trendy shoes.

SHOES

1055 Military Cutoff Rd. #103 Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 256-2233 Ladies and menswear, extensive designer denims. Lines like Current/Elliott, Geren Ford, Rebecca Taylor, Joie, Ella Moss.

Will work on memo.

SAS Shoes

Planet

114 Princess St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 399-1637 Trendy women’s shoes.

108 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 341-0036 Some very unique/hip treasures.

Popular with the indie kid crowd.

Redix Store

120 Causeway Dr. Wrightsville Beach, NC 28480 (910) 256-2201 Local department store with beach clothes, swimwear, hats, shoes.

Will work on memo.

Ropa, Etc.

120 S. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 815-0344 Specializes in comfortable clothing in natural fibers.

Hanover Center 3501 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 772-9994 Comfortable footwear, including hard-to-find sizes and widths.

Shoe Diva

Shoe Shak

Hanover Center 3501 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 772-9993 Men’s & women’s fashion and comfort shoes.

MENSWEAR Bloke Apparel LLC

7304 Cotesworth Dr. Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 679-4137 Great young fashionable menswear.

Ask for Michael.

Cape Fear Formal Wear

Torri/Bell

The Forum 1125-J Military Cutoff Rd. Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 679-4081

Independence Mall 3500 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 452-1106 Downtown 218 N. 3rd St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 762-8206 www.capefearformalwear.com Spring 2011 The Costume Designer

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IN FOCUS EAT & DRINK Bluepost Billiards

15 S. Water St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 343-1141 Very cool dive bar. Locals favorite.

Brasserie du Soleil

Lumina Station 1908 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 256-2226

COSTUME 70

DESIGN CENTER

Caprice Bistro Restaurant and Sofa Bar

10 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 815-0810 Quieter, dark, martini bar.

Copper Penny Pub and Restaurant

109 Chestnut St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 762-1373 Really good pub food with an extensive selection of beers and microbrews.

MENSWEAR Gentlemen’s Corner

Lumina Station 1900 Eastwood Rd. Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 509-3838 Style for the coastal life. Lots of colorful sportswear, some suiting, shoes and accessories.

Men’s Wearhouse

3920 Oleander Dr. Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 799-6664 Mayfaire Town Center 859 Inspiration Dr. Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 256-3529

Tara Grinna

Return Passage

Elizabeth’s

The Forum 1125 Military Cutoff Rd. Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 509-9999 Semi-custom swimwear, sewn locally.

Available in large cup sizes.

302 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 92401 (910) 343-1627 Consignment resale store: clothing, shoes, and accessories.

43041/2 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 251-1005 Good authentic N.Y. Italian food and really great pizza.

Serves until midnight.

Jess James’ Style Girl Vintage

Hell’s Kitchen

(910) 538-5657 jessjames7@gmail.com Vintage collector and local resource.

118 Princess St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 763-4133 Built originally as a set for Dawson’s Creek. It’s a lively local bar.

Kerr Ave. Thrift Store Area

Le Catalan French Café and Wine Bar

Between Randall and Wrightsville Ave. Goodwill here is very popular.

224 S. Water St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 815-0200 A favorite French bistro on the Riverwalk. Great place to watch the sunset.

Tina Winesette Jewelry Design

1420 Quadrant Cir., Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 228-4889 Local jewelry artist can make jewelry from sketch.

VINTAGE & RESALE aMuse Artisanal Finery

SPECIALTY SHOPS

19 South 2nd St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 397-9099 www.hatshatshats.com Milliner, vintage costume jewelry and accessories. Wonderful MTO millinery.

Doublewide Skate & Surf Shop

A Second Time Around

24 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 763-4807 Men’s & women’s & kids’ skater clothing and accessories.

143 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 343-1043 Premier consignment boutique.

Will work on memo.

La Bella Forma

The Forum 1125 Military Cutoff Rd. Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 256-1220 Full line of bras: Sizes 32AA–46K in stock!

Castle Street Antiques District

Castle Street has an array of antique and vintage shops (pop in at Jester’s Cafe for lunch).

FABRIC STORES

123 Princess St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 763-5252 European/Southern American fusion using local seasonal produce.

Incredible food and a great mixologist!

Discount Fabrics

Nikki’s Fresh Gourmet

68 S. Kerr Ave., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 254-1287

16 S. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 772-9151 Voted no. 1 by locals for sushi. Also serves vegetarian food and sandwiches.

JoAnn’s Fabrics and Crafts

352 S. College Rd. Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 799-9377

Cape Fear Jewelry

3911 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 762-1310 Amazing estate jewelry.

Mary Jo’s Cloth Store

401 Cox Rd., Gastonia, NC 28054 (704) 861-9100 Quite a drive but worth it!

10 N. Lumina Ave. Wrightsville Beach, NC 28480 (910) 256-8184 www.sweetwatresurfshop.com Wetsuits, swimwear, and beachwear.

Will work on memo.

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The Costume Designer Spring 2011

30 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 762-9828 Awesome vintage store!

Past Elegance

103 S. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 251-9001 Mint condition vintage clothing, hats, accessories; vintage lingerie and linens.

Contact owner: Pauline Hopkinson

Always a perfect fit!

Port Land Grille

Lumina Station 1908 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 256-6056 Finest quality meats and fresh seafood prepared on a wood-fired grill. Uses local seasonal produce.

Custom Manufacturing Costume Rentals • Prep Spaces

Rafaella

Flashbax Sweetwater Surf Shop

Manna

Mill Outlet Village

2515 S. College Rd. Wilmington, NC 28412 (910) 392-0287 Dress, drapery, upholstery fabrics, and a huge selection of trims.

6722 Wrightsville Ave., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 256-0702 Family-owned N.Y. Italian restaurant.

Satellite Bar and Lounge

120 Greenfield St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 399-2796 Local bar with a great vibe and amazing decor made from salvaged materials. Live bluegrass jam every Sunday and the best bloody mary in town! Co-owned by our own CDG member, Carol Cutshall.

818.954.1297 www.wbcostumedept.com DQG :DUQHU %URV (QWHUWDLQPHQW ,QF $OO ULJKWV UHVHUYHG

Spring 2011 The Costume Designer

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IN FOCUS NBC Universal FILMMAKERSDESTINATION.COM 818.777.2722 • 800.892.1979

EAT & DRINK The Basics

Cotton Exchange 319 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 343-1050 Elegant twist on soul food favorites like house-smoked BBQ, meatloaf, mac ’n’ cheese. Yummm!

MISC. Nature’s Way Drycleaning

4409 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 791-8844 1705 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 256-9042 Green dry cleaners, industry-friendly.

Thread FX

20184 U.S. Hwy. 17 N., Hampstead, NC 28443 (910) 270-5031 Embroiderers. Very industry-friendly with a fast turnaround.

L&B Monograms Plus

Carolina Beach, NC 28428 (910) 458-6912 Embroiderers. Can do lots of specialty work very quickly.

Contact: Linda Dameron Port City Java

21 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 762-7339 2099 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 763-3724 Best coffee in town!

Lovey’s Natural Foods and Café

1319 Military Cutoff Rd., Wilmington, NC 28405 (910) 509-0331 Like a Whole Foods.

Tidal Creek Coop

Costume Rentals Manufacturing Alterations Fitting Rooms & Offices

5329 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403 (910) 799-2667 Best place for grocery shopping. Produce from local organic farms.

Riverfront Farmers Market

00-100 N. Water St., Wilmington, NC 28401 Every Sat. 8 am–noon, Apr.–Dec. featuring local farmers, bakeries, butchers, artists and crafters.

Atlantic Dental Group Sarah Pless, DDS, Denise Pinson, hygienist

1301 Physicians Dr., Wilmington, NC 28401 (910) 762-0958

Hats for lease or purchase: 1950’s to 1700’s Theatrical Millinery

COMPILED BY Bonnie Nipar bnipar@costumedesignersguild.com

www.theatricalhatstorent.com

SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS Carol Cutshall, Dan Moore, Pam Miller, Jess James 22

The Costume Designer Spring 2011

Spring 2011 The Costume Designer JDJ Inter_Hats 2.indd 1

5/12/11 Italian 4:28 Fashion PM Group_quarter.indd 1

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5/11/11 5:03 PM

IN FOCUS

BOLDFACE NAMES BOLDFACE AT WORK Pilot season has been golden in and out of town for the last few months as networks rush to meet their May deadlines and push their big prospects for the fall season. CD Marissa Borsetto hit a trifecta of ABC pilots recently, first with Man Up, a comedy starring Teri Polo, then with another sitcom, Smothered, starring Marcia Gay Harden and Adam Arkin and ending with yet a third comedy, Work It. Borsetto doesn’t want to slow down anytime soon and keeps her fingers crossed that Criminal Minds and Suspect Behavior will get picked up to start in June. The humorous-themed pilots continued here in town, with CD Wendy Benbrook wrapping Hypothetical World, a Comedy Central sketch comedy, starring Keegan Michael Keyes and Jordan Peele (both of Mad TV). CD Robin Kennedy had a great time in April designing the pilot Other People’s Kids for ABC, starring Judith Light, and described the cast and project to be an all-around delight, with the fun continuing for Kennedy into her series Raising Hope, featuring the always-lively, Cloris Leachman. CD Julia Schklair and her crew were busy at work with a more somber subject matter for a CBS pilot, The Doctor, starring Christine Lahti, Eva Amurri, Scott Foley and Kyle MacLachlan. The medical drama shot here in Los Angeles was created by Rina Mimoun and directed by David Nutter. While the work is pouring in, Schklair is happy to pull out her umbrella and keep up as designers juggle pilots in between their series. CD Lisa Eisler-Coburn wrapped Big Mike, an A&E pilot starring Anthony Ruivivar (The Whole Truth) and Nicole Ari Parker (Soul Food), and Greg Grunberg as a plus-size detective with the San Diego Police Department. CD Cate Adair recently finished designing the Marc Cherry pilot for ABC, Hallelujah, about a Tennessee small town battling the forces of good and evil, and the entrance of a mysterious stranger to their community. The drama starring Terry O’Quinn (Lost) and Donal Logue (Terriers) was shot in Los Angeles and directed by Michael Apted. CD Deena Appel is continuing her run on pilots in Los Angeles with Grace for ABC. The drama surrounds a dysfunctional family set in the world of contemporary dance and stars Eric Roberts as a former-dance-god-turned-choreographer struggling to keep his company alive while his three daughters from three different women are coming to terms with each other.

Illustrator Robin Richesson shared her extraordinary talent with Appel for a series of Grace’s performance pieces representing fire, wind, rain and earth. Appel then switched gears for Tim Allen’s return to the multi-camera with Last Man Standing, also for ABC. The situation comedy pairs Allen with Nancy Travis and Hector Elizondo.

CD Nicole Gorsuch designed a few back-to-back pilots in town, Pack of Wolves for Disney X, about a secret agent forced into hiding, disrupting the peaceful suburban lives of his three younger cousins, and in April, Gorsuch wrapped the second pilot Home 24

The Costume Designer Spring 2011

Game, a CBS comedy about a retired athlete with little to no knowledge of raising three daughters. CD Bonnie Nipar had some fun here in town with a live audience recently, designing Are You There, Vodka? It’s Me, Chelsea. The pilot is based on the best-selling autobiography of the same name, spotlighting Executive Producer Chelsea Handler’s humorous accounts of her antics as a girl in her 20s. CD Kimberly Adams is currently over at Paramount working her magic turning high school kids by day into crime-fighting ninjas by night for the new series Supah Ninjas. New CDGer Erin Hirsh is home here in Los Angeles designing The Voice, a new NBC reality show, with voice coaches Adam Levine, Christina Aguilera, Cee-Lo and Blake Shelton looking for the best vocals out there and schooling the talent to a grand prize.

rected by Peter Horton. The 1866 period piece set in Missouri and filmed in Santa Fe, stars Rachelle Lefevre and Martin Henderson (both from Off the Map). Good Christian Bitches sounds surprising for an ABC title, but not for Sex and the City creator Darren Star, who produces the drama based on Kim Gatlin’s novel. CD Ellen Mirojnick designed the sassy-titled pilot, which filmed in Dallas, starring Kristin Chenoweth, Leslie Bibb, Annie Potts, and David James Elliott. Moving over to Atlanta, CD Ruth Carter recently tied a bow on a Joel Silver pilot for CBS, Hail Mary, starring Minnie Driver as a crime-fighting suburban mom teamed up with a street-wise young hustler. CD Isis Mussenden just finished shooting The Playboy Club pilot for NBC/Imagine TV in Chicago, about the beginning of the Playboy phenomenon and the bunnies who worked the original club in the early ’60s.

CD Mary Vogt’s talents were “outsourced” for the Indian film Enthiran aka The Robot. She was hired to design a portion of the Tamil language film. The Indian star and humanitarian Rajnikanth was brought to the United States to be scanned for prototypes based on Vogt’s designs. She also designed the robot dancers which were built in India. The film’s American producer, Jack Rajsekar as well as Mary and other key departments were given an award by William and Mary College in Virginia for International Cooperation in World Filmmaking.. In New York news, CD Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko designed the ABC pilot Pan Am, a 1960s-set drama circling the pilots and flight attendants of the once glamorous airline, starring Christina Ricci. CD Juliet Polcsa designed Person of Interest, a pilot for CBS shot in New York, starring Jim Caviezel, Michael Em-

erson and Taraji Henson, and immediately followed up the drama with a flight to Chicago to start designing a Gus Van Zandt produced and directed series for Starz titled Boss, featuring Kelsey Grammer.

In Wilmington, N.C., CD Kathleen Felix-Hager has just put the final touches on the ABC Family movie Teen Spirit, a drama directed

by Gil Junger about the mean popular girl who gets electrocuted and dies, but can’t enter the pearly gates until she makes amends by turning the least popular girl into the prom queen. After prepping the now defunct Life of Buddah in India for four months, CD April Ferry hit the road, taking CD Bob Fletcher cross country to Kansas City where the 87-year-old Fletcher put the finishing touches on this summer’s St Louis Muni Opera. According to Ferry, Fletcher’s eye and hand still flow beautifully, in this, his twentieth year at the opera. Next, Ferry is headed to Vancover to do battle with aliens landing on Earth in the sci-fi drama Elysium, starring Jody Foster and Matt Damon.

CD Allison Leach, with ACD Tiffany White, took a recent trip down to South America to design H+, an epic international science-fiction Web & miniseries for Warner Premiere, shot on location in Santiago, Chile. One of our newest members, CD Karen Young, just finished a promo for the new VH1 series Single Ladies in Atlanta, before hopping a plane to set up residence and start designing in New York, a big change from living in Ohio! CD Shawna Trpcic is revamping the newest BBC Torchwood series—the Dr. Who spin-off, now with a more modern, edgy feel, and has the sci-fi community tuning in to Trpcic’s tweets about the costumes after recently wrapping in Los

CD Vogt is outsourced for Enthiran ACD Monique Long has had a busy season in the world of country music, costume supervising and designing the Billboard Music Awards airing May 22, supervising Country Music’s Girl’s Night Out, and also this last April, marking Long’s celebratory 10th year supervising the Academy of Country Music Awards.

In between the live country shows, Long designed a Spike Lee documentary series for MSNBC shot in Los Angeles and Las Vegas, featuring Rachel Maddow. CD Bonnie Stauch recently wrapped in April, the still untitled Rob Schneider comedy project about a solitary guy who marries into a large Mexican-American family.

CD Jennifer Bryan has stepped in as designer for the third season of HawthoRNe, with CD Barbara Inglehart as her supervisor. The medical drama starring Jada Pinkett Smith, Michael Vartan and Marc Anthony, films in Los Angeles.

COSTUME RENTALS CORPORATION 11149 VANOWEN STREET NORTH HOLLYWOOD, CA 91605 TEL: (818)753-3700 FAX:(818)753-3737

CONTACT: MEL SABINO

Several recent pilots have shed all things “modern-day” to travel back in time. CD Julie Weiss with her ACD Ken van Duyne, revived the post–Civil War for the NBC pilot Reconstruction, diSpring 2011 The Costume Designer

25

BOLDFACE AT WORK Angeles and Wales. CD Gersha Phillips took on the creative challenge designing her recent project with a more contemporary look on the ABC pilot Poe, shot in Toronto. Poe, as in Edgar Allan is presented not as a writer, but an unconventional detective investigating the darker mysteries of 19th-century Boston. CD Eduardo Castro had little time to bask in the afterglow from his ultra-creative, ABC fairy tale pilot Once Upon a Time, also shot in Canada, before catching a quick flight for New Orleans to take over designing Memphis Beat for CD Kelli Jones, who had to head back to Los Angeles for Sons of Anarchy, Season 4.

CD Cynthia Obsenares did double duty in LA this March designing commercials for Dunkin Donuts and Mike’s Hard Lemonade, while Francine Lecoultre traveled to Cape Town, South Africa, to design Carl Jr.’s “Miss Turkey� commercial for HIS. Lecoultre created the kitschy burger bikini and also contracted CDGer Shelly Komarov to manufacture dresses through her Komarov Enterprises.

In local film news, CD Danny Glicker is home for the summer designing with ACD Michele Short assisting on the comedy My Mother’s Curse for Paramount, starring an interesting CD Lecoultre’s Burger Bikini combo of Seth Rogan and Barbra Streisand as an inventor who heads out on the open road with his mother to market his latest invention. Illustrator Lois DeArmond lent her illustrative flair to CD Carol Ramsey on the Starz network period show, Magic City, shot in Florida, set in 1959 Miami Beach, with CD Ellen Falguiere assisting.

Features are more than likely bumping elbows with each other in New Orleans—CD Leah Katznelson is at the helm designing the film version of 21 Jump Street for Sony Pictures, starring Channing Tatum, Jonah Hill and Ice Cube, through mid-summer, and CD Christopher Lawrence went to New Orleans in March to design the Nicolas Cage action film Medallion, shooting through June, and Lawrence is happy to be working again with longtime collaborator, director Simon West. CD Judianna Makovsky has set up shop in North Carolina designing The Hunger Games (Artemis), the feature based on the best-selling novel by Suzanne Collins, directed by Gary Ross and starring Jennifer Lawrence and Elizabeth Banks with CD Lisa Tomczeszyn assisting and CD Dan Moore supervising.

Our UK designers are playing a bit of hopscotch across the globe with their latest projects—CD Alexandra Byrne is hitting the U.S. production hot spots of Los Angeles, New York, Miami, and New Mexico on her latest design project for Marvel Studio’s comic book feature The Avengers, starring Scarlett Johansson, Robert Downey Jr., Jeremy Renner, Samuel L. Jackson, and Mark Ruffalo. CD Janty Yates is currently working on Sir Ridley Scott’s next action epic, Prometheus, a prequel to Ridley Scott’s original Alien, from 1978. The sci-fi feature prepped and shoots in 3D in and around the UK, Morocco and Scotland, and stars Noomi Rapace, Charlize Theron, and Michael Fassbender. CD Eiko Ishioka, one of a few designers steeped in the world of childhood fairy tales, is now in Montreal with ACD Susan Kowarsh Hall, assisting from Los Angeles on the Relativity Media feature The Brothers Grimm: Snow White (one of two Snow White features in production), starring none other than Julia Roberts as the Evil Queen. CD Colleen Atwood and ACD Christine Cantella are also visiting the UK for Dark Shadows, based on the popular TV series. The Tim Burton–helmed gothic horror tale stars the usual cast of collaborators, Johnny Depp and Helena Bonham Carter.

BOLDFACE PRESS Many of CD Joan Bergin’s re-creations for the Starz’s Arthurian series Camelot, were featured in the April 8 Hollywood Reporter’s Hollywood Style section alongside an interview on Bergin’s surprising inspirations for the sixth-century tale, not only drawn from Celtic mythology, but stained glass, and beautiful fabrics from Delhi, India, totaling in the end, 150 original costumes.

CD Luke Reichle has been buzzing with recent interviews on

a variety of topics ranging from his fashion design origins, to clothes, closets, the craziest costumes, and yes, his series, Castle: http://huff.to/fmcnpY http://bit.ly/hlzS9u http://bit.ly/f8np0H CD Kathleen Detoro gives an interview and visual tour for the AMC blog, which highlights the iconic pieces that have contributed to the success of Breaking Bad. From Walt’s tightie-whities to hand-knit pom-pom hats, Detoro thinks there are plenty of pretty dressed characters, so why not have fun with it? http:// bit.ly/hCuqwV CD Shelly Komarov and her Made in America— Made in Los Angeles couture and ready-to-wear lines were frontpage news for Apparel News. Recently, Komarov showed her line to 200 women at a Nordstrom fashion show. The audience stood and applauded her for her contribution to the economy and business in the United States. Yea, Shelly!

BOLDFACE ENTRPRENEURS CD Kristin Burke has published her third book, I Wanna Be Your Vegan, this time a cookbook, with 100% of the proceeds going to John Johnson, a 45-year-old IA production designer, in an effort to offset medical costs as he battles pancreatic cancer. The book is for sale exclusively at: http://www.blurb. com/bookstore/detail/2014905

Entertainment Tonight and The InCD Burke goes vegan sider’s CD Anya Sarre is thrilled over the launch of her own jewelry collection, Anya Sarre for ShoeDazzle, every must-have piece is inspired from Anya’s own jewelry box and will allow everyone to have Anya’s signature “glam girl meets resort chic� style for only $39.95. Available at ShoeDazzle.com.

CD Shawnelle Cherry has taken a hands-on approach and created a sewing and fashion design school for kids in North Carolina, called Future Fashion Designers. Cherry has a 1,100-squareCD Sarre’s jewels foot studio in downtown Mooresville, N.C., now serving as a fashion design studio for kids 8 and up, with adults also welcome. Classes range from beginning to advanced sewing, to fashion design 1 & 2, fashion sketching costume design, and more. Cherry plans to expand, bringing it to other cities with the hope of turning it into a nonprofit in the future. More information can be found at Cherry’s website at www.FutureFashionDesigners.com.

Compiled by: Suzanne Huntington shuntington@costumedesignersguild.com Alonzo Wilson yourowndesigner@aol.com

COSTUME CO-OP

BOLDFACE NAMES

CD Rita Ryack is also way down south with ACD Paula Elins assisting, in the revival of the 1980s glam rock scene for the Warner Bros. screen adaption of Broadway hit, Rock of Ages. The stage and feature version are directed by Adam Shankman, and the film version stars Tom Cruise, Paul Giamatti, Alec Baldwin, Russell Brand, Julianne Hough, and Mary J. Blige. ACD Stacy Caballero-Foushee has just returned from her home in Louisiana where she assisted CD Michael Wilkinson on the Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn, Part 1 and 2, shot in Vancouver. Caballero has just started assisting CD James Acheson on the Warner Bros. feature Man of Steel, the next comic book–based film on Superman, filming in Illinois, starring Henry Cavill, Amy Adams, Diane Lane, and Kevin Costner.

CD Lois DeArmond’s portfolio grows even larger working on the Clint Eastwood feature J. Edgar for CD Deborah Hopper, starring Leonardo DeCaprio as Hoover, shot both in Los Angeles and Vancouver. CD Debra McGuire designed and recently wrapped the comedy Ted, starring Mark Wahlberg, Mila Kunis, Giovanni Ribisi, with Seth MacFarlane acting and directing the feature, shot in Boston. CD Gary Jones has the creative reins designing the fairy tale feature, Oz: The Great and Powerful, filming in Detroit, starring James Franco, Mila Kunis and Blake Lively, with Sam Raimi directing.

Jones and his crew, CD Jessica Peel Scott and CD Gali Noy, both assisting, and Alan Villanueva illustrating, have started prep at Western Costume and will shoot in Detroit through December.

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The Costume Designer Spring 2011

Spring 2011 The Costume Designer

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WHAT’S ON

WHAT’S IN Water for Elephants

Body of Proof Costume Designer:

Happy Endings

ROBERTA HAZE

Costume Designer:

Assistant Designer:

KERI SMITH

Costume Designer:

The Conspirator

JACQUELINE WEST

Costume Designer:

Assistant Designer:

LOUISE FROGLEY

STACY CABALLEROFOUSHEE

MARCEL CHEVALIER

Illustrator:

OKSANA NEDAVNIAYA Mr. Sunshine Costume Designer:

GENEVIEVE TYRRELL Assistant Designer:

Better With You

Sympathy for Delicious

Costume Designer:

Costume Designer:

LORI ESKOWITZCARTER

ERIN BENACH

PAMELA WITHERSCHILTON

LISA JENSEN

LINDSEY KEAR

Harry’s Law

Costume Designer:

Costume Designer:

Assistant Designer:

MOLLY GRUNDMAN

Mad Love

Passion Play

Thor

Priest

Costume Designer:

Costume Designer:

Costume Designer:

ALEXANDRA BYRNE

LISA EISLER

Assistant Designer:

Illustrator:

ROBERT WOJEWODSKI

BRIAN KOPP

HA NGUYEN Illustrators:

PHILLIP BOUTTE JR., BRIAN VALENZUELA

Illustrator:

CHRISTIAN CORDELLA

Bridesmaids Raising Hope

Perfect Couples

Costume Designer:

Costume Designer:

LEESA EVANS, CHRISTINE WADA

ROBIN KENNEDY

NANCY GOULD

The Borgias Cinema Verite

GABRIELLA PESCUCCI

SUTTIRAT ANNE LARLARB

Costume Designer:

JOAN BERGIN

Assistant Designer:

Monte Carlo

Cowboys & Aliens

Costume Designer:

MARY ZOPHRES

Costume Designer:

SHAY CUNLIFFE

SUSAN O’CONNOR CAVE

KATE HEALEY

Assistant Designers:

Assistant Designer:

ESZTER ANTAL, CAMILLE JANBON, WENDY STEFANELLI

SUSAN SCOTT The Costume Designer Spring 2011

HEATHER DOUGLAS

Costume Designer:

ELAINE MONTALVO

MARY JANE FORT

Assistant Designer:

Illustrator:

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The Killing

A Better Life

Costume Designer:

ANINA PINTER Camelot

Costume Designer:

JENNIFER JOHNSON

Judy Moody and the Not Bummer Summer

Costume Designer:

Costume Designer:

Beginners

Costume Designers:

Costume Designer: Assistant Designers:

JENNY EAGAN, MARJORIE MCCOWEN Illustrator:

CHRISTIAN CORDELLA Spring 2011 The Costume Designer

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the

Alter fashion world!

Photofest

SCRAPBOOK

1986 Goldie Hawn, Director, Michael Ritchie and Costume Designer & Producer Anthea Sylbert

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The Costume Designer Spring 2011

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Gown by: Stephen Ferradino, Class of 2010 Photo by: Volker Correll

Join the fashion revolution: mcd.woodbury.edu/fashiondesign