The Innovation Issue, Spring 2019

cosmetics

THE I N N O VAT I O N ISSUE New looks, new rules and new ways to shop

RESULTS AFTER 28 DAYS

Before

After

SPRING 2019

BEAUTY BUZZ 11 Hot Ticket

Beauty dates you need.

13 Go West

We’re stomping our feet for high-teased hair and prairie wear.

NEW IN STORES 16 Must-Have Makeup 18 Vacation Nails 20 Superstar Skincare

4

INSPO 23 Whimsical Wisps

Nothing gives a more youthful look than babyhair curls.

25 No Guidelines

There were zero eyeshadow rules on S/S 2019 runways.

F E AT U R E S 28 Custom Cool

Three ways beauty brands are making personalized offerings more appealing.

31 Pretty Predictions

The year’s biggest innovations span ingredients to evolving retail spaces.

Director, Beauty Publications & Awards James R. Hicks Editor Alex Laws Creative Director Heather Marrin Production Manager Stephanie Hicks French Beauty Editor Vânia Aguiar Contributing Beauty Editor Tara MacInnis Social Media Coordinator Moriah Campbell Editorial inquiries: alaws@cosmeticsalliance.ca Advertising & event inquiries: jhicks@cosmeticsalliance.ca Vol. 48, No. 1 — Spring 2019

Cosmetics Alliance President and CEO Darren Praznik

ADVISOR TOOLS 39 Salut, Beauté

In French, Vânia Aguiar gives the scoop on what’s hot in Quebec — and beyond!

47 COSA Column

Emily Brown from Shoppers Drug Mart, Halifax, on overcoming the difficulties of social media.

50 Ingredient 101

Why PHAs are the new acid everyone’s jazzed about.

IN EVERY ISSUE 7 Editor’s & Publisher’s notes 8 Contributors

The faces behind the issue and the innovations they couldn’t live without.

51 #BeautyGram

Get inspired by makeup maverick and drag queen JayJay Kings who’s known for jaw-dropping looks.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Director, Finance & Administration Michele Follows Manager, Digital Media & Communications Amy Sutherland Director, Media & Communications Susan Nieuwhof Manager, Membership & Administration Michele Davis Manager, Beauty Specialist Certification Program Diane Kozak Cosmetics Alliance Canada, Suite 102, 420 Britannia Rd E, Mississauga, ON L4Z 3L5 5

NEW

clarins.com

MY CLARINS MY DETOXIFYING & NOURISHING SKIN CARE

HEALTHY SKIN [In&Out] COMPLEX organic coconut water | feed alpenrose extract | detoxify fig extract | moisturize organic goji berry extract | boost energy acerola seed extract | boost radiance Simple, fresh and healthy, everything my skin will love.

UP FRONT

EMBRACING CHANGE

Photos: David Hawes (Hicks), Max Abadian (Laws).

AT A TIME WHEN WE ARE reeling

from layoffs in the media due to advertisers looking for new opportunities, and witnessing senior-level redundancies on the vendor and retail sides, it seems change is the new norm.

Meanwhile, social media influencers compete for our attention, but savvy consumers are recognizing that more and more of the influencers they relied on for unbiased reports are being paid to promote products. Thankfully, some companies are already moving away from this form of promotion, recognizing the importance of the original influencers — you, the experts behind our beauty counters across the country.

So embrace this rapidly changing world we live in as the beauty influencer of tomorrow — and the tomorrow after that and the tomorrow after that. What you do by serving your customers each and every day is more important now than ever before. Have a great spring selling season!

Jim Hicks, DIRECTOR, BEAUTY PUBLICATIONS AND AWARDS @JIMHICKSTWEETS

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

AS WE PUT THE FINISHING touches

on this issue, spring’s bright colours, lighter textures and uplifting scents have us dreaming of the warmer temperatures on the horizon (they’re coming!). We’re sure you’re doing the same — with friends, families and customers alike.

Beauty innovation has been a worthy distraction from the weather and it’s something we always investigate during this season — how what’s coming down the pipe will shape the beauty industry and our daily routines for the next year. From enhanced customization (page 28) to the increased availability of natural ingredients and innovative retail spaces (page 31), exciting changes are in store. (And online, too.)

Now’s the time to plan our spring wardrobes, and to be inspired by fresh new product launches (page 15 onwards) and bold new looks. From eyeshadow anywhere (page 23) to youthful wispy hair (page 25) and the birth of a cooler country genre (page 13) there’s lots to love about this season. So dust off your cowboy boots and giddy up!

Alex Laws, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF @MISS_LAWS @LEX_LAWS

7

UP FRONT

CONTRIBUTORS The faces behind the issue and their fave beauty innovations FOR 2019 ”Its powerful formula has high-grade retinol to boost radiance and reduce the look of wrinkles, uneven skin tone and spots. I was really impressed by its efficiency.”

ESTÉE LAUDER

Perfectionist Pro Rapid Renewal Retinol Treatment, $106, at Hudson’s Bay.

Vânia Aguiar WHAT YOU WORKED ON: “Salut, Beauté” (pages 39 to 46) FILORGA NCEF Night Mask, $95, at Filorga.com.

Lora Grady

FOR 2019 ”Japanese beauty.

Like Korean beauty before it, J Beauty is getting lots of attention right now for its radiant skincare and sun-protection products. I’m excited to try brands like SK-II (which currently has a couple of products at Sephora).”

@lorakgrady

WHAT YOU WORKED ON: “Ingredient 101: Acid Test” (page 50)

8

EVIAN Brumisateur

Natural Mineral Water Facial Spray, $15, at Sephora.

FOR EVER ”I can’t live without this! It’s an incredible mask with a high-tech texture that works miracles on the face while you sleep. It is an intensive shot of radical correction of wrinkles, firmness and glow.”

SK-II From $22 to

$365, at Sephora.

FOR EVER ”I can’t believe this stuff was developed back in the ’60s — it works so well as a hydrator and makeup-setting spray that I use it constantly, from morning until night.”

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

Photos: Roberto Caruso (Grady).

@vaniaaguiar12

HUDSON’S BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS

HUDSON’S BAY BEAUTY MENTOR AS CANADA’S PREMIER BEAUTY DESTINATION, Hudson’s Bay understands the vital role beauty experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are a key reason why customers develop loyalty to our stores. We’ve scoured the country in search of the very finest beauty experts to share their expertise and advice. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at Hudson’s Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.

MICHELLE CHENG Manager, Shiseido Hudson’s Bay, Vancouver Downtown, BC 19 years of beauty experience Email address: beautymentor@hbc.com

WHAT IS THE KEY TO GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE? SMILE and take the time to understand what the customer desires by listening and asking the right questions. Through this, you are able to make them feel welcomed and comfortable, and build strong and loyal relationships.

WHO WAS YOUR MENTOR WHEN YOU STARTED OUT? THROUGHOUT MY EXPERIENCE AS A BEAUTY CONSULTANT I’ve been lucky to have countless mentors. However, the mentor that has inspired me the most is Raymond Law. I always found myself learning something new from him due to his extensive knowledge. He has this positive attitude and energy that has inspired me to never give up.

Feel free to reach out to me at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at beautymentor@hbc.com.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT WORKING AT HBC? HUDSON’S BAY always feels like my second home. My sales manager and our management team all of their support.

Although it’s filled with many challenges, that’s when teamwork comes into play the most; not just from those in my department, but also the others.

BEAUTY BUZZ

Hot Ticket

@COSMOPROFBOLOGNA

Mark your calendar with these hot spring beauty dates 1.

2. Fashion Week Flair Get beauty inspo via the quirky looks accompanying tomboy-with-flair Lourdes é Eva at Vancouver Fashion Week F/W 2019, March 18 to 24, and Dada-influenced Notre Décès at Western Canada Fashion Week F/W 2019, March 20 to 24, at the ATB Financial Arts Barns.

Photos: Instagram.

4. Teen Makeup Goals Having premiered at TIFF last fall, Teen Spirit is opening countrywide on April 5, and we can’t wait. Elle Fanning plays aspiring singer Violet, whose flushed farm-girl beauty look is as pretty as her sparkling stage persona.

5. Beauty Celebration On May 2, glittering gowns, bright lights and vibrant makeup looks will abound at the second annual Canadian Beauty Awards (formerly the Fragrance Awards). This marks the first time the CBAs will be held in Montreal, at the DoubleTree by Hilton. Bonne chance à tous!

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

2.

3. @ELLEFANNING

3. Power Pop Tune in to some new beauty goals in April with Ariana Grande, Stevie Nicks and Cher performing at venues across the country. Pick your beauty beat and sing it loud. (Check out Cosmeticsmag.com/ beauty-buzz/hotdates for more info.)

@ARIANAGRANDE

@VANFASHIONWEEK

1. Innovation & Creation Covering the latest trends and technological developments, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, March 14 to 17, is the leading exhibition for the beauty sector and is packed with the Next Big Things.

4. @COSMETICSMAG

5.

11

LAIT-CRÈME CONCENTRÉ Try this exce real beauty septional cream, a cret for decad es.

It’s THE favour it e m ul ti fu nction care of makeu p artists arou al the world. nd It removes mak nourishes, re eup, moisturizes, your skin will pairs, soothes… love it!

Now available in Canada at Shoppers Drug Mart (select stores) and beautyboutique.ca

EMBRYOLISSE WHERE BEAUTY BEGINS www.embryolisse.ca

BEAUTY BUZZ

GO West

1. @SONGOFSTYLE

Get ready for high hair and prairie wear, y’all!

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

3.

5.

@LONGCHAMP

1. New York Times bestselling author and fashion influencer Aimee Song shows up to NYFW S/S 2019 in flaming red cowboy boots. 2. Winter whites carry into spring at Ulla Johnson. 3. Longchamp plays up the classic cowboy shirt with long fringe. 4. Miley Cyrus touches up her makeup behind the scenes at her Grammy rehearsal. 5. Model Kaia Gerber rocks a modern bouffant for Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S 2019.

2. @ULLAJOHNSON

SADDLE UP. Spring is here and we’re dustin’ off our Western wear and teasing our locks for Dolly Parton-approved volume.

Runway models and the street-style set stomped into fashion weeks last fall in cowboy boots affirming that the Wild West will continue to reign supreme into the spring season — but with a more romantic twist. The fashion had us dreaming of life on the plains. Ethereal white prairie-style dresses graced runways at Jonathan Simkhai, Coach and Ulla Johnson, while fringe and frills brought classic cowboy shirts into modern times at Longchamp.

Soft bouffants at Marc Jacobs elevated our honky-tonk love affair and Richard Quinn’s spring presentation took hair to Loretta Lynn heights. Accompanying beauty looks featured rose-glossed lips and a little rockabilly black eyeliner, of course.

On the pavement, thanks to the offspring of country royalty (think Miley Cyrus, Lukas Nelson and Ashley Campbell), country music has been made millennial cool, and trend reports suggest fans are flocking to the genre’s Mecca, with Nashville’s record-breaking 15.2 million tourists in 2018 encouraging airlines like British Airways to introduce non-stop flights. Yeehaw. — Heather Marrin

@MILEYCYRUS

4. @MARCJACOBS

13

EXPERIENCE A BEAUTY THAT TRANSCENDS TIME FUTURE SOLUTION LX TOTAL PROTECTIVE CREAM E. TOTAL REGENERATING CREAM E. 10 YEARS OF THE DEEPEST REVERENCE AND RESPECT. 10 YEARS OF VITALITY BORN OF A JAPANESE TREASURE: THE ENMEI HERB. 10 YEARS OF REINFORCED LONGEVITY, RADIANCE AND RESILIENCE.

NEW IN STORES MAKEUP | NAILS | SKINCARE

Photos: Adobe Stock (background).

Citrus Fizz Spring fragrances promise to add some zest to our lives, even if warmer temperatures feel distant. Notes of lemon, lime and mandarin are rounded out with gourmands like rosemary and pink peppercorn, suggestive of shaking up tart cocktails and late-spring patio adventures. These lively spritzes will awaken your senses and whet your appetite for the taste of summer ahead. — Alex Laws MANDARIN & PINK PEPPERCORN: Burberry Her Blossom Eau de Toilette, $128, exclusively at Hudson’s Bay from the beginning of May. LEMON & ROSEMARY: Givenchy Gentleman Cologne, $112, at Hudson’s Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart and Holt Renfrew from April 3. LUSCIOUS LIME: Atelier Cologne Pacific Lime, $190,

at Sephora, Nordstrom (selected doors) and the Atelier Cologne boutique.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

15

Must-Have

MAKEUP 1.

Tired skin after a long, frigid winter? The spring beauty counters have you covered with new luminizers, a high-tech mascara and fresh pops of colour for your pout

By Tara MacInnis 2.

8.

3.

7.

6.

16

5.

NEW IN STORES

1. Cover and Care If you’re covering something up, why not make it disappear at the same time?

This tinted lotion does just that for acne sufferers, with pigments to hide imperfections and a trio of active ingredients, including monolaurin (derived from a fatty acid and found in coconut milk) to reduce sebum production, exfoliate and diminish inflammation.

4.

AVÈNE Cleanance Expert

Tinted Lotion, $30, at Shoppersdrugmart.ca.

2. Grey Market Benefit knows brows, and that the desire to have great ones doesn’t fade with age. That’s why it added a grey shade to the already super successful Precisely, My Brow Pencils, along with three other new colours.

This shade extension makes it the first brand to launch a grey brow pencil.

BENEFIT Precisely, My

Brow Pencil in Grey, $32, at Benefitcosmetics.ca.

3. Glow On From all-natural RMS Beauty comes this collection of three

pressed highlighting powders, perfect for giving winter skin a boost for spring.

Grande Dame is a sheer champagne shade, Madeira Bronzer gives a sun-kissed highlight, and Midnight Hour has pretty pink undertones. Pick your go-to shade or mix and match.

with a new technology that suspends pure pigments using translucent microspheres. That means the application is super lightweight and buildable, while the colour remains saturated.

RMS BEAUTY Luminiz-

6. Lucky Star This new line of high-shine, moisturizing lipsticks will be a permanent addition to the Dior makeup offering, with both best-selling shades from previous collections and a crop of brand new shades. Each lipstick is also intended to be a good-luck charm, with names like Positivity and Dior Fortune.

ing Powder, $50 each, at Murale.

4. Coral Floral This little palette is one that you might be reluctant to use because it’s so pretty. But apply it, and the silky finish and complexionenhancing wash of colour will make it worth it. There are three shades within the orchid design that can be applied together for an all-over shimmering glow, or focus on the pink for a soft flush on the cheeks.

SISLEY L’Orchidée in

Coral, $135, at Holt Renfrew, Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom.

5. True Colours The six universally flattering shades in this limited-edition palette were created

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

NARS Exposed Cheek

Palette, $74, at Sephora, Nordstrom and Hudson’s Bay.

keep them healthy and help them grow.

CLARINS Wonder

Perfect Mascara 4D, $30, at Clarins.com from April.

8. Lip Love Chanel’s spring lipstick launch includes a diverse range of 27 colours, and a formula that delivers high-shine pigment as well as good-for-you ingredients like jojoba oil and sunflower oil.

Pick your favourite shade then layer on one of the three translucent top coats to add shimmer, orange tones or more depth.

CHANEL Rouge Coco

Flash, $46 each, at Chanel beauty counters.

DIOR Addict Stellar

Shine, $37, at Dior.com and Sephora.

7. Lash Goals With one application, this mascara separates and coats each lash, adding volume, length and curl. But, over time, its combination of rose wax and panthenol protects and strengthens lashes to 17

NEW IN STORES

Vacation

NAILS Dreaming of March break?

Time to get a manicure — with a shade inspired by your destination

By Tara MacInnis

Bright Lights

Perfect Pastels

Flirty Florals

Earth & Sun

Dazzle All Day

COLLECTION NAME:

COLLECTION NAME:

COLLECTION NAME:

COLLECTION NAME:

COLLECTION NAME:

INSPIRED BY:

INSPIRED BY:

INSPIRED BY:

INSPIRED BY:

INSPIRED BY:

PERFECT FOR:

PERFECT FOR:

PERFECT FOR:

OPI Tokyo

Japan’s vibrant capital city. Each of the 12 shades are meant to evoke the fashion-forward hotspot, as well as its pretty gardens and energetic nightlife.

PERFECT FOR:

A trip to Tokyo… complete with obligatory night out in Shinjuku.

OPI Nail Lacquer, $14

each, and Infinite Shine, $17 each, at Ulta.com.

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CND Sweet Escape The timeless elegance of the Victorian era, as well as the enduring beauty of French embroidery.

PERFECT FOR:

A road trip through the Provence countryside in a vintage Renault Caravelle Cabriolet. Roof down, of course.

CND Vinylux Long

Wear Polish, $20 each, at salons nationwide.

Essie Spring 2019

A ladylike tea party in a pretty garden filled with springtime blooms, fancy porcelain cups and decadent pastries.

A tour of the best high tea spots in London. (Put the Wolseley, Sketch and Fortnum and Mason on your list.)

ESSIE Nail Enamel,

$10 each, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

Dior Wild Earth

A “terra incognita,” or an unknown land, scorched by the sun and accented with pops of earthy colour.

Picking out your home décor scores at the souk in Fez after glamping in the Sahara.

DIOR Vernis, $34 each,

at Hudson’s Bay and Dior.com from April.

YSL Shimmer Rush Pure, dazzling, attention-grabbing energy, according to the brand’s beauty director Tom Pecheux.

A chi-chi retreat like at the Ingleside Inn; a celeb fave that’s tucked at the base of the San Jacinto Mountains.

YSL La Laque

Couture, $32 each, at YSLbeauty.ca.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

Superstar

SKINCARE 1.

Whip your skin into shape this spring with a hit of vitamins, hydration and double-duty products to get your glow on

By Tara MacInnis

2.

8.

7.

20

6.

NEW IN STORES

3.

1. Booster Shot Designed to be used in conjunction with Marcelle’s Hydractive Moisturizing Gel Cream, this 95 per cent natural mist boosts the efficacy of its 60 ultra-hydrating minerals and elements. So spritz it on before you apply the gel and get even more moisturizing results.

Glow Concentrated Juice Face Serum, $36, at Sephora and Nordstrom.ca.

2. Vitamin Fix Get a combination of two of the best vitamins for your extra-delicate eye area, vitamin C and vitamin E, with this formula. Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants, so you’ll get a brightening effect and protection from free radicals, while vitamin E soothes and calms any inflammation.

KAT BURKI Nutrient C

JUICE BEAUTY Signal

Energizing Mist, $26, at Marcelle.com from June.

5.

FRESH Vitamin Nectar

4. Day to Night A super-hydrating balm by day and a restorative mask by night, this new product from Gwyneth Paltrow-blessed Juice Beauty is a lifesaver for dry skin. With rice peptides, micro-algae and sunflower-derived lipids, firmness is restored, and skin is hydrated and protected, whether you’re applying a thin layer in the morning or a thicker one before bed.

MARCELLE Hydractive

4.

the same technique used in making cold-pressed juice.

Apply this refreshing formula all over your face and neck for skin that looks brighter, more even-toned and hydrated.

Eye Cream, $118, at Shoppers Drug Mart from April.

3. Juice Bar Likened by Fresh founder Lev Glazman to “a shot of juice for your face,” this serum is loaded with fruitand vegetablederived antioxidants and is created with

like borage oil and squalene will protect your skin and help it recover from dehydration. If you’re already using the Vinosource range, add it in right after your S.O.S ThirstQuenching Serum, and if not, use it when you would your day or night cream.

CAUDALIE Vinosource

S.O.S Moisturizing Cream, $42, at Caudalie.ca and Sephora from April.

6. Red Alert According to Bioderma, 60 per cent of women have experienced skin redness. And their brand new fix? This latest iteration of micellar water, formulated with the patented Rosactiv complex, a combination of ginkgo biloba, green tea and soy extracts that soothes skin and reduces inflammation.

Peptides Firming Balm & Mask, $125, at Sephora.ca.

BIODERMA Sensibio

5. Help at Hand This latest addition to French skincare brand Caudalie’s Vinosource family is intended to hydrate even the driest skin.

Ninety-seven per cent natural, ingredients

7. Fall for It Luxurious French skincare brand Valmont is launching a cleansing jelly with a base of glacial spring water that both boosts the skin’s metabolism and

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

enhances its natural defences. Massage a small amount into the skin and rinse it off to reduce hyper-pigmentation and make skin more supple.

VALMONT Icy Falls jelly,

$195, at Valmont spas.

8. Spring Cleaning The new do-it-all foaming cleanser from Aussie brand Dr. Roebuck’s has three key homegrown ingredients: Tazman pepper to soothe skin and minimize redness, wild bush plum to add radiance and diminish blemishes and hyper-pigmentation, and wattle seed to calm and hydrate.

DR. ROEBUCK’S Kibosh

Weightless Foaming Cleanser, $36, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

H2O AR, $15, at Shoppersdrugmart.ca.

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IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT IS THE MOST COMMON SKIN CARE QUESTION YOU GET IN YOUR STORE AND HOW DO YOU ANSWER THAT QUESTION?

C

osmeceutical Experts are among the best in their field.

Nominated by their Peers, Vendor or Retailer, they represent the highest standard in skin care consultation. NEOSTRATA∏, an expert in dermocosmetics, congratulates each winner for their outstanding customer service all year long.

C

lients of all ages always question how to retain the freshness of their skin. Seasonal shifts in skin are inevitable, If skin does not exfoliate properly, the surface of the skin may have a dull appearance; that cannot be enhanced by make-up.

I advise my clients that they require either an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) like NEOSTRATA® RESURFACE Collection or a PHA (Polyhydroxy acid) from the RESTORE line. Once the skin surface has renewed, a even toned look can be achieved.

HOW IMPORTANT IS TRAINING WHEN IT COMES TO THE SKIN CARE CATEGORY?

CONGRATULATIONS NORA UKENI NEOSTRATA® Cosmeceutical Expert, Shoppers Drug Mart, Toronto, ON

I

believe personalized training is essential from an educational standpoint. E-learning while being a excellent tool, does not provide the interaction and communication that is necessary with all of the innovative products coming to market. It is essential for beauty experts to have a full understanding; so that they can educate ® their clients. NEOSTRATA being a leader in the industry, understands the necessity and investment in beauty experts to relay their message with accuracy!

INNOVATION IS A BIG REASON FOR THE GROWTH IN THE SKIN CARE CATEGORY TODAY. HOW DOES NEOSTRATAR SHOW LEADERSHIP IN THIS AREA?

N

®

EOSTRATA is an industry leader in Dermocosmetics. Their newest innovations specialize in at- home treatments, such as microdermabrasion and at-home peels. This season they are again being innovative with 100% Pure Hyaluronic Acid Micro Infusion Patches. Hyaluronic Acid is like a sponge of moisture for your skin. The patches target facial lines with plumping hydration. This is a great option for my client base!

NON-INVASIVE MICROFILLER WITH 100% PURE HYALURONIC ACID Inspired by professional medi-spa treatments these 100% Pure Hyaluronic Acid patches are the perfect at-home solution to smooth, plump and fill the look of your hardest-to-treat expression lines (crow’s feet, forehead creases, and laugh lines) with no downtime.

@ANNASUI

No Guidelines

TREND TO TRY

STEPPING AWAY FROM a

Photos: Instagram.

Clockwise from top left: With a little David Bowie-esque flavour, all-over colour was front facing on Anna Sui. At Marques Almeida, models smiled with eyes that were covered in a range of hues including blue, red and green. For Lanyu Couture, eyes resembled a Van Gogh masterpiece, with tiny colourful strokes creating a painterly effect up to the brow line.

Trend Nº 1

ALL- OVER COLOUR @LANYUCOUTUREOFFICIAL

traditional paint-by-numbers smoky eye, makeup artists went off-grid for spring runway presentations, placing colour all over the eyes: on lids, lower lash lines and even above the brow. Pat McGrath washed pink and yellow from the cheeks to the forehead at Anna Sui and at Lanyu Couture lids became the canvas for an eye-catching painterly effect in multiple bright hues.

CoverGirl makeup pro Veronica Chu says perfecting this standout look starts with a good base: “Applying a layer of concealer to the under-eye and setting with powder creates a clear foundation for the shadow to adhere to.” To keep the look clean and blended, “buff a transitional nude shadow in the upper crease and along the lower lash line.”

When adding your pops of colour, you’ll need two tools: “A larger shadow brush to sweep over the upper lid, and a smaller precision brush to bring the colour down along the lower lash line.” Using different brushes helps to vary the intensity of the colour. Go catch some eyes! — Moriah Campbell

BEST FOR:

A street-style photo shoot or girls’-night-out cocktails!

@MARQUES_ALMEIDA

Tool Kit

QUO PROFESSIONAL

Allover Shadow Brush, $25, at BeautyBoutique.ca.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

COVERGIRL

TruNaked Dazed Palette, $15, at Rexall.

DIOR

Backstage Small Eye Shadow Blending Brush, $25, at Dior.com.

23

TREND TO TRY

WITH SPRING COMES new life,

Photos: Instagram.

BEST FOR:

A youthful look for a fashion-week party or impromptu date night.

@MARYKATRANTZOU

Clockwise from top left: Delicate strands framed faces at the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi S/S 2019 presentation at London Fashion Week. At Fendi, topknots were coupled with barely there curls and at Mary Katrantzou, low ponies were left perfectly unpolished with baby-hair-like wisps on each side of the face.

@FENDI

which makes the wispy babyhair-inspired updos sprouting from runways this season especially fitting.

Armani brings a sultry spin to the world of wisps by framing the face with a mountain of light tendrils to create a look that recalls a messy bridesmaid in the best way. Meanwhile Fendi puts a wonderful childlike twist on the slicked-back topknot by softening the look around the temples with babyhair-like curly wisps.

Inspired by the Fendi look, celebrity and editorial stylist Natalie Ventola says it’s best to “put the top section of hair up in a loose clip and gently begin to pull out the pieces you want to create the wisps.”

Before you begin pulling up the hair, Ventola’s trick is in the texture: “Dampen the hair with a bit of water and hairspray then brush back with a boar-bristle brush to get that instant updo facelift.” This ensures the look is polished, rather than rained on. Finish with a touch of heat by adding some gentle texture to the wisps with a small curling iron, says Ventola. It’s the will of the wisp. — Moriah Campbell

@PREENBYTHORNTONBREGAZZI

Whimsical Wisps

Trend Nº 2

LOOSE LOCKS Tool Kit

DANNYCO

San Large Paddle Brush With Pure Boar Bristles, $21, at Chatters.ca.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

PHYTO PARIS

Phytolaque Soie Botanical Hair Spray, $26, at BeautyBoutique.ca.

BABYBLISS

Pro Ceramic Curling Iron, $100, at Trade Secret locations.

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COSA

AWARDS 2019

THE COSMETICS OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS

CELEBRATE WITH US! The 2019 COSAs are on November 14 at the Fairmont Royal York in Toronto

It’s the Canadian beauty industry’s biggest celebration of the year!

Every year, Cosmetics honours the best customer service in Canadian beauty retail. If you know an exceptional cosmetician, beauty advisor, fragrance advisor, skincare therapist, demonstrator, trainer, vendor sales rep, drugstore team or department store team, visit Cosmeticsmag.com/cosas to submit your nomination. The deadline for nominations is June 14, 2019.

BECOME A SPONSOR To inquire about event sponsorship opportunities, please contact Jim Hicks at jhicks@cosmeticsalliance.com 2019 COSA SPONSORS

PRESENTATION SPONSOR

PRINT SPONSOR

ENTERTAINMENT SPONSOR

PRODUCTION SPONSOR

SIMULCAST SPONSOR

RECEPTION SPONSOR

COSA PIN SPONSOR

cosmetics

AWAR D C ATEGORIES

1

BEST SERVICE

BY A DRUGSTORE TEAM

2

BEST SERVICE BY A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE TEAM

3

SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT 10 BEST OR SPECIALTY STORE Retailer nominated

11

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Vendor nominated

12

4

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Vendor nominated

13

BEST SERVICE BY A DERMO-COSMETIC EXPERT IN A DRUGSTORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

5

ROOKIE OF THE YEAR BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

14

BEST SERVICE BY A PART-TIME ASSOCIATE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

6

ROOKIE OF THE YEAR BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

SERVICE BY A SKINCARE THERAPIST 16 BEST Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

7

BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Peer nominated

SERVICE BY A DEMONSTRATOR 17 BEST Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

8

BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Peer nominated

18

9

BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Retailer nominated

SERVICE BY A FRAGRANCE ADVISOR 15 BEST Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A TRAINER Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

SERVICE BY A VENDOR SALES 19 BEST REPRESENTATIVE

Cosmetician, beauty advisor or fragrance

For category details and nomination instructions, visit Cosmeticsmag.com/cosas Entry deadline: Friday June 14, 2019

Photo: Pexels

CUSTOM COOL The consumer becomes the product developer as brands offer increased beauty customization — in-store and online

By Moriah Campbell

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COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

F E AT U R E

C O LO UR CUSTO M I Z AT I O N

Customization has long been around in the form of colour choices and monogrammed lipstick tubes, but now beauty brands are taking things a step further — offering scent and texture options, mixing personalized shades at the counter and inviting consumers to submit new product ideas.

B E AUTY B RAI NSTOR M Brandy Hoffman, the co-founder of Volition, a brand that acts as a beauty Kickstarter, says inviting customers to influence the development of products they use is a “democratization of the beauty industry.” Volition invites customers to submit product suggestions and ideas via the company’s website and any visitor to the website can vote for the ideas they like. The innovations with the most votes are developed and created by top labs in the industry. “We cut out the middleman of boardroom execs deciding what our customers want and instead let consumers tell us exactly what they need,” says Hoffman. The process delivers unique ideas and allows consumers to feel connected to the brand. “Customers are smart. They know when a brand is just throwing the word ‘community’ around versus being a part of one.”

When an idea is chosen, the person who submitted it receives royalties and is involved in the production process, although the company is unable to confirm exactly how much.

Customizing colour has become a big way for brands to offer unique in-store experiences to consumers.

Toronto-based natural lip company Bite Beauty launched in 2012 and a year later began opening Lip Lab locations across North America, allowing customers to choose the texture, scent and shade of a new signature lipstick made on the spot. And in 2016, Lancôme brought shade-customization to the world of foundation. With over 72,000 colour combinations, Le Teint Particulier has taken the guesswork out of choosing a foundation shade by scanning the skin to measure your skin tone. After applying your skin type and coverage preference, your personalized product is mixed by machine at the counter for you to take home. Previously only available in Toronto, this colour-mixing technology will launch in stores in Montreal at the end of March.

ON L I N E O R I GI N A L S Online stores might not be new to the personalization game, but the variables of what customers can tailor are growing. Having launched in 2015, New York-based hair care company Function of Beauty requires customers to answer questions online about their hair’s oil content and texture and their hair goals. Customers can then choose their product fragrance — with scents like pear, pineapple, and eucalyptus — as well as the colour, ranging from blues and purples to oranges. Similarly, in 2017 the beauty oil company the Buff arrived on the market using a questionnaire about skin type, concerns and goals to tailor a specialized oil blend for face or body, using a library of natural oils.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Custom Creations

VOLITION

Turmeric Brightening Polish, $48; Helix AM/ PM Eye Gel, $65; Snow Mushroom Water Serum, $78, all at Sephora.

BITE BEAUTY LIP LAB

A La Carte, $55; Lip Lab Bespoke, $150, available at all Bite Beauty Lip Labs.

LANCÔME Le Teint Particulier Foundation, $110, at select Nordstrom locations.

IT’S THE BUFF

Customized Face Oil, $56; Customized Body Oil, $56, both at Itsthebuff.com.

FUNCTION OF BEAUTY

Shampoo and Conditioner, $65, at Functionofbeauty.com.

29

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Pretty

Predictions TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION always

The beauty crystal ball reveals that the biggest industry innovations this year span emerging technology, natural ingredients and evolving retail spaces

gets a lot of buzz thanks to beauty trade shows like Cosmoprof, revealing everything from hairdryers designed to brighten the colour of your locks to butt masks. But gadgets using cameras to analyze the performance of products on hair and skin have become big business too, like the Scalar Video Magnifier, which appeared in Shoppers Drug Mart stores last fall to measure the hydration level of customers’ skin. Sanjiv Mehra, chairman of Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) which partners with Cosmoprof for the Cosmetic Innovator of the Year Awards, says this is just the beginning.

By Alex Laws SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

31

“In 2019 and 2020 we expect to see the second generation of these devices. ” — Sanjiv Mehra, Chairman of ICMAD

“In 2019 and 2020 we expect to see the second generation of these devices. They’ll be less gimmicky, solving real beauty and health issues, and data will become part of the background learning process for these devices rather than an output for consumers.”

It’s not just devices that are becoming savvier. Consumers are driving innovation and change within the industry, and that’s encouraging continued growth in natural, cruelty-free, clean and green beauty trends. CoverGirl was among the first mainstream beauty brands to state its intent not to include animal-tested ingredients last November. “Consumers expect brands to be leaders in positive change,” said Ukonowa Ojo, former CMO of Coty, in a statement released when the brand partnered with Cruelty Free International.

32

Some big manufacturers are also evolving based on consumer demand for more natural beauty products. “One of the biggest innovations in the green beauty space is the ingredients that are available to us. Increasingly they are becoming more high performance,” says Bill Baker, founder of Consonant Skincare. Indeed, access to potent and effective ingredients is allowing natural beauty brands to create products that are more effective and deliver competitive results.

“I didn’t have the opportunity to work with larger companies when we first started,” says Graydon Moffat, who founded Graydon Skincare in 2012. Thanks to manufacturers recognizing the consumer demand for natural ingredients, she’s been able to improve the quality of her brand’s offerings.

“Now we meet directly with some

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

F E AT U R E

manufacturers doing a lot of research into high-performance natural ingredients.”

Moffat takes trend predictions from the manufacturers and works with her chemists to incorporate them. “These extracts are outrageously expensive for us to buy, but they work,” says Moffat. As well as making the products more competitive, the ingredients come with data — blind tests and studies — that prove their efficacy. “I need to be able to substantiate my claims,” she says.

Using sustainably sourced botanical collagen, peptides, hyaluronic acid and retinol has been game-changing for companies like Graydon, which will launch Green Cream, a double retinol clarifying complex with retinol from the moth bean, and squalene from olives, later this spring.

Access to new information is also helping brands take an innovative approach to existing ingredients.

Julie Clark of Province Apothecary recently added oatmeal to her hero product, Eczema Balm, for its instantly calming qualities and plans to bring honey into her treatments.

“It’s one of the oldest ingredients — Cleopatra used it — and is well known in the industry, but we are using it in new ways, which I can reveal soon!” Meanwhile, Graydon Skincare will tap the power of established skin-saver blue algae, a.k.a. Blue Majik, paired with a vegan probiotic in its Berry Rich Face & Eye Cream launching in April.

“This industry has changed completely, and there’s lots of innovation coming up around ingredients and devices, but even how we go to market has changed completely,” says Baker. “Millennials are looking

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Julie Clark added oatmeal to her hero product last year for its immediate calming effect. At Provinceapothecary.ca.

Graydon Skincare taps Blue Majik algae in its Berry Rich Face & Eye Cream launching in April.

At Graydonskincare.ca.

33

Podiums in Consonant’s Queen Street location are built on wheels so they can be easily moved and the space transformed to host free community yoga classes.

34

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

F E AT U R E

“We understand healthy skin is about diet, exercise, mental and emotional health.”

— Bill Baker, founder of Consonant Skincare

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

opening up the retail experiences it offers with new wellness experts in stores providing a 360-degree attitude to skincare. Registered dieticians provide customers with an assessment and a holistic approach to skincare including sleep, stress, diet and a lifestyle plan, says Megan Menard, senior manager, external communications at Shoppers Drug Mart. “We can help our customers determine their skincare routines, both from a beauty perspective, recommending products and proper tools, but we can also integrate a nutritional approach.”

Forecasts from industry predictors follow suit. “In 2019, the biggest beauty trend will be a greater recognition that diet, health and mental wellness are foundational elements of beauty,” says ICMAD’s Mehra. This interest in wellness and skincare combined, he adds, will result in an increase in products, services and experiences that will expand the definition of the beauty category.

Photo: Sarjoun Faour.

for real and authentic products that are going to enhance their lives, and they are looking to consume them in a way that’s more meaningful.”

Baker seeks to offer that at his Queen Street store, which has a community notice board at the entrance and features podiums on wheels that can be rolled out of the way to host seminars and workshops. “We understand healthy skin is about diet, exercise, mental and emotional health.” Complimentary workshops on nutrition for healthy skin and managing anxiety, as well as yoga classes, are often at capacity.

“We have a number of fitness and wellness partnerships,” says Baker.

“It’s a very low-pressure style of retailing — we even have a sign outside some of our stores that says, ‘Try it, don’t buy it.’” But it pays off when orders come through online after customers visit the store for samples. “It really is a multi-channel approach,” he says.

Shoppers Drug Mart is also

35

JOIN US ON

May 2, 2019 DoubleTree by Hilton, Montreal

Canadian

BEAUTY Awards

2 019

The Canadian Beauty Awards continues to recognize product innovation in Montreal in 2019 Categories include: fragrance, skincare, makeup, nail care, hair care, suncare and men’s products. We will also acknowledge the Lifetime Achievement recipient.

Thursday, May 2, 2019 DoubleTree by Hilton, Montreal, Que.

For more information about the event please visit our website at

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Congratulations to the 2019 Canadian Beauty Awards Finalists BEST LIMITED FRAGRANCE LAUNCH Atelier Cologne Musc Impérial Cologne Absolue [L’Oréal Luxe] Chanel N°5 Eau de Parfum Red Edition [Chanel] Narciso Rodriguez ‘for him’ Bleu Noir Eau de Parfum [Shiseido Canada Inc.] BEST FULL MARKET LAUNCH — MEN’S FRAGRANCE Azzaro Wanted By Night Eau de Parfum [Clarins Canada Inc.] Burberry Mr. Burberry Indigo Eau de Toilette [Coty Canada] Chanel Bleu de Chanel Parfum [Chanel] Dolce & Gabbana The One Grey Eau de Toilette [Shiseido Canada Inc.] Hugo Boss Boss The Scent Private Accord Eau de Toilette [Coty Canada] John Varvatos X Nick Jonas Eau de Toilette [Elizabeth Arden] Yves Saint Laurent Y Eau de Parfum [L’Oréal Luxe] BEST FULL MARKET LAUNCH — WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE Burberry Her Eau de Parfum [Coty Canada] Calvin Klein Women Eau de Parfum [Coty Canada] Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Intense [Chanel] Giorgio Armani Si Passione Eau de Parfum [L’Oréal Luxe] Lancôme La Vie Est Belle Eclat Eau de Toilette [L’Oréal Luxe] Marc Jacobs Daisy Love Eau de Toilette [Coty Canada] Mugler Aura Eau de Parfum [Clarins Canada Inc.] Salvatore Ferragamo Amo Ferragamo Eau de Parfum [Shiseido Canada Inc.] BEST SKINCARE — PRESTIGE Biotherm Life Plankton Essence [L’Oréal Luxe] Clarins Extra-Firming Night Creams [Clarins Canada Inc.] Clinique Moisture Surge 72-hour Auto-Replenishing Hydrator [Estée Lauder Companies Canada] Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum [Dermalogica] Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Mega-Mushroom Relief & Resilience Soothing Treatment Lotion [Estée Lauder Companies Canada] Filorga NCTF Intensive Supreme Regenerating Serum [Prestilux] Institut Esthederm Intensive Hyaluronic Eye Contour Serum [Naos Canada Inc.] Kiehl’s Since 1851 Glow Formula Skin Hydrator [L’Oréal Luxe] Lancôme Advanced Génifique Hydro-Gel Melting Mask [L’Oréal Luxe] Shiseido Essential Energy Day Cream [Shiseido Canada Inc.] BEST SKINCARE — FULL MARKET Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Cream [Elizabeth Arden] Garnier SkinActive All-In-1 Micellar Cleansing Water [L’Oréal Canada Inc.] Institut Esthederm Intensive Hyaluronic Cream [Naos Canada Inc.] Neutrogena Light Therapy Acne Spot Treatment [Johnson & Johnson] Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel Cream [Johnson & Johnson] Marcelle New Age UpLift Energizing Serum [Groupe Marcelle Inc.] Philosophy Purity Pore Extractor Mask [Coty Canada] BEST SKINCARE — DERM Avène Eau Thermale PhysioLift Day Smoothing Cream [Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique] Avène Eau Thermale Hydrance Intense Rehydrating Serum [Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique] Bioderma Atoderm Anti-Itch SOS Spray [NAOS Canada Inc.] Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré Multi-Function Nourishing Moisturizer [Prestilux] La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive [L’Oréal Canada Inc.] La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Serum [L’Oréal Canada Inc.] Neostrata Skin Active Rehydrating Repair collection [Johnson & Johnson] Reversa Radiance Cream SPF 30 [Dermtek Pharma] Reversa Anti-Wrinkle Cream SPF 30 [Dermtek Pharma] Reversa Radiance-C Concentrate [Dermtek Pharma] Vichy Liftactiv Collagen Specialist [L’Oréal Canada Inc.]

BEST SUN CARE Institut Esthederm Sun Expert [NAOS Canada Inc.] Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel Sunscreen SPF 50 [Johnson & Johnson] Vichy Ideal Soleil SPF 60Dry Touch Lotion [L’Oréal Canada Inc.] BEST MAKEUP — EYES — PRESTIGE Lise Watier V Element Volcanic Minerals Mascara [Groupe Marcelle] Nars Climax Dramatic Volumizing Mascara [Shiseido Canada Inc.] BEST MAKEUP — LIPS — PRESTIGE Buxom PlumpLine Lip Liner [Shiseido Canada Inc.] Clarins Water Lip Stain [Clarins Canada Inc.] Lancôme L’Absolu Lacquer [L’Oréal Luxe] M.A.C Cosmetics Powder Kiss Lipstick [Estée Lauder Companies Canada] Shiseido lips collection [Shiseido Canada Inc.] BEST MAKEUP — FACE — PRESTIGE Bareminerals Gen Nude Powder Blush [Shiseido Canada Inc.] Giorgio Armani My Armani To Go Essence-In-Foundation Cushion [L’Oréal Luxe] IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better™CC+™ Cream with SPF50+ [L’Oréal Luxe] Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder Glow [Shiseido Canada Inc.] VDL Lumilayer Primer [Fruits & Passion] BEST MAKEUP — EYES — FULL MARKET Covergirl Exhibitionist Mascara [Coty Canada] Elizabeth Arden Grand Entrance Mascara [Elizabeth Arden] Rimmel London Magnif’Eyes Eye Contouring Palette [Coty Canada] Smashbox Super Fan Mascara [Estée Lauder Companies Canada] BEST MAKEUP — LIPS — FULL MARKET Annabelle Edge Lipstick [Groupe Marcelle] Covergirl Exhibitionist Lipstick [Coty Canada] Rimmel London Stay Matte Liquid Lip Colour [Coty Canada] BEST HAIR CARE Clairol Nice ‘n Easy hair dye [Coty Canada] L’Oréal Paris Magic Root Cover Up [L’Oréal Canada Inc.] BEST NAIL CARE Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure [Coty Canada] Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Pastel Punk Collection [Coty Canada] BEST BODY CARE Alo Whipped Body Cream [Fruits & Passion] Bioderma Atoderm Ultra-Nourishing Anti-Irritation Cleansing Oil [Naos Canada Inc.] Caprina Amazing Body Wash Fragrance Free [Canus Goat’s Milk Skin Care Products Inc.] Neostrata Skin Active Triple Firming Neck Cream [Johnson & Johnson] Nuxe Huile Prodigieuse New Formulation [Prestilux] BEST MEN’S PRODUCTS CW Beggs and Sons Anti-Wrinkle Defense Moisturizer [Groupe Marcelle] House 99 by David Beckham Softer Touch Beard Oil [L’Oréal Luxe] Jack Black Beard Oil [Prestilux] HALL OF FAME — WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum [Chanel] Chloe Eau de Parfum [Coty Canada] Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau de Toilette [Shiseido Fragrances] Mugler Alien Eau de Parfum [Clarins Canada Inc.] Viktor&Rolf Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum [L’Oréal Luxe] LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT Marc Anthony, Marc Anthony Patricia Clare, Neostrata Angela Gallo, Estée Lauder Carmen Tal, Moroccanoil

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INTRODUISANT

Vânia Aguiar

Notre rédactrice beauté partage les tendances de la nouvelle saison

<< C’est le temps ou jamais de mettre le nouvelles technologies au service de notre beauté ! >>

COSMÉTO TECHNO L’UNIVERS des cosmétiques est en perpétuelle évolution et nous offre chaque année une panoplie d’innovations. Silk’n met volontiers au service des femmes des technologies cosmétiques utilisées seulement par les maquilleurs professionnels. La marque a ainsi créé des dispositifs dignes de cliniques parmi les plus connues et pouvant être utilisés efficacement chez soi.

Que ce soit pour une épilation express ou pour un traitement anti-âge, pour un remodelage du corps ou encore pour un microdermabrasion, les gadgets beauté haute performance de Silk’n fonctionnent à merveille!

L’appareil anti-âge Titan est alimenté par trois sources d’énergie: la chaleur infrarouge, la lumière à DEL et la radiofré-quencee, qui déploient une énergie harmonisée capable de relancer le processus naturel de renouvellement cellu-

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

laire de la peau. La production de collagène est stimulée, les tissus conjonctifs sont liés, le derme retrouve sa fermeté et la peau est lissée. Essayé et approuvé!

DE SILK’N Appareil d’affermissement

et de redrapage de peau Titan, 299 $, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix DE SILK’N Gel Hyaluronique Slider, 14,99 $ les 130 ml, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix

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2.

1.

1.

1 DE GUERLAIN Poudre

Météorites Compact Gold, 77 $, disponible aux comptoirs Guerlain 2 DE NARS Fard à joues Mosaic Glow, 64 $, disponible à Sephora

3.

10.

11.

3 D’YVES SAINT LAURENT Palette

9.

4.

8.

SIMPLICITÉ V O L O N TA I R E !

Le retour à la fraîcheur et au naturel sera de mise ce printemps. Pour le maquillage, le mot d’ordre proclamé est simplicité ! Modernes, dotées de textures ultra fines, super pigmentées et conjuguant les reflets lumineux, les nouvelles couleurs pareront d’un look bonne mine les paupières aux nuances acidulées et les bouches teintées sexy exhaleront une fraîcheur franchement incontournable.

5.

7.

40

11.

6.

Shimmer Rush All-Over, 70 $, disponible au yslbeauty.ca 4 DE CHANEL Pinceau Illuminateur Rétractable Baume Essentiel Transparent Sculpting, 60 $, disponible aux comptoirs Chanel 5 DE RODIAL Traceur sourcils Effet Microblade, nuance Ash Brown, 35 $, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix 6 DE PUPA Exfoliant Lèvres Unexpected Beauty, 23 $, disponible en pharmacie 7 DE DIOR Palette 5 couleurs Lolli’Glow, nuance 447 Mellow, 74 $, disponible à La Baie

10.

9.

8 DE LISE WATIER

Magnifix Base + Brume Fixatrice de Maquillage, 50 $, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix 9 DE GIVENCHY Fard à joues Prisma, nuance No.10 Power, 63 $, disponible à Ogilvy 10 DE ANNABELLE

Goutes Illuminatrices, 8,95 $, disponible en pharmacie 11 DE CLARINS Duo Couleurs & Lumière Glow 2 Go, 32 $, disponible aux comptois Clarins COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

8.

S A L U T, B E A U T É

2.

3.

Hum… ça sent bon !

12.

4.

Des nouveautés au rayon parfumerie ! Le printemps rime avec rayons de soleil qui réchauffent la peau, températures qui s’adoucissent, robes qui raccourcissent, tous des signes annonciateurs de la nouvelle saison. Pour célébrer cette renaissance, les grandes maisons de parfums lancent des effluves nouveaux qui nous feront assurément vibrer de plaisir !

1 DE CHANEL Chance

5.

Eau Tendre Eau de Toilette, 170 $ les 100 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Chanel 2 DE DOLCE & GABANA Eau de Parfum

The Only One 2, 148 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie 3 DE MARC JACOBS

Eau de Parfum Daisy Dream en édition Sunshine, 96 $ les 50 ml, disponible à Jean Coutu 4 DE GUERLAIN Eau de Toilette Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose, 108 $ les 50 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Guerlain

7.

6.

5 DE CAROLINA HERRERA Good Girl Eau

de Parfum Légère, 148 $ les 80 ml, disponible à Pharmaprix 6 DE GUERLAIN Eau de Cologne Impériale, 121 $ les 100 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Guerlain

7 D’YVES SAINT LAURENTS Mon Paris

Parfum Floral, 120 $ les 50 ml, disponible au yslbeauty.ca 8 D’ISSEY MIYAKE

L’Eau d’Issey Pétales de Nectar, 122 $ les 90 ml, disponible à La Baie 9 DE GIVENCHY Eau de Parfum Live Irresistible Rosy Crush, 136 $ les 75 ml, disponible à Ogilvy 10 DE MIU MIU Eau de Parfum Miu Miu Twist, 150 $ les 100 ml, disponible à Sephora 11 DE SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Eau de

Toilette Amo Ferragamo Flowerful, 125 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie 12 DE DIOR Eau de Toilette Miss Dior Roller-Pearl, 49 $ les 30 ml, disponible à Sephora

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RÉSULTATS APRÈS 28 JOURS

Avant

Après

S A L U T, B E A U T É

Thierry Mugler :

une icône mode et beauté

DE MUGLER Eau de Toilette

Alien Man, 99 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie

44

LE MUSÉE des beaux-arts de Montréal inaugure une grande première mondiale. Le MBAM présente en effet Thierry Mugler : Couturissime, une exposition consacrée à ce créateur français d’envergure internationale. Cette rétrospective dévoile les univers multiples d’une figure artistique incontournable à la fois couturier visionnaire, metteur en scène, photographe et parfumeur.

La spectaculaire expo réunit quelque 140 flamboyantes silhouettes jamais exposées, réalisées entre 1973 et 2001.

Une panoplie d’éléments documentent la vision du couturier de génie. Accessoires et costumes de scène, documents d’archives, croquis originaux, clips et vidéos, feront découvrir au public l’univers déjanté du grand créateur.

Dans les années 1990, Thierry Mugler a marqué l’histoire de la mode avec ses défilés à grand spectacle et ses fragrances gourmandes, qui cumulent encore aujourd’hui les premières places des

ventes. Rebaptisé Manfred Thierry Mugler, le directeur artistique affirme avoir toujours été fasciné par le plus bel animal qui existe sur Terre : l’être humain. Et cette fascination l’a mené à le sublimer. Même s’il affirme volontiers ne jamais se tourner vers le passé, il se dit ravi que le MBAM et sa directrice générale, Nathalie Bondil, aient été les premiers à lui proposer de mettre en scène ses créations et à imaginer ensemble une vision artistique globale, libre et réinventée de son parcours.

Et un parcours, le créateur en a tout un !

Tant dans la mode que dans la parfumerie, Mugler a su changer les codes de son époque. Son étoile Angel, née en 1992, a bousculé la planète parfumerie.

Cet oriental vanillé, gourmand, opulent et sexy, présenté dans un flacon en forme d’étoile, est inspiré des odeurs des fêtes foraines de l’enfance du couturier.

Ce hit ouvre la voie à toute une palette de parfums d’exception, aux matières

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

S A L U T, B E A U T É

premières naturelles ou imaginaires souvent très rares.

Des odeurs de caractère, le fruit d’associations inédites signant des parfums de sillages sensuels aux formules courtes et équilibrées créées à partir de deux ou trois notes volontairement surdosées.

Angel, Alien, Aura Mugler, Womanity, AMen et Les Exceptions ont fait le succès de la parfumerie Mugler.

Aujourd’hui, la maison lance un nouvel opus masculin : Alien Man. Créée par Jean-Christophe Herault, cette empreinte, avec son accord charnel et racé, irradie une vibration qui électrise la composition par sa fraîcheur aromatique anisée et surprend par ses notes boisées fumées. Mystérieuse et enveloppante mais aussi attractive par son caractère floral et celui cuiré de l’osmanthus, la fragrance recèle des notes ultra masculines qui parent de force magnétique l’homme Alien Man. «Alien Man dégage un effluve original qui unit un trouble envahissant mêlant

sensualité, fraîcheur bouleversante et magnétisme unique », explique Thierry Mugler.

Selon le commissaire de l’exposition, Thierry-Maxime Loriot, le public adoptera instantanément l’univers fascinant d’un créateur qui a révolutionné la mode, tant par ses innovations, les matériaux utilisés pour construire ses looks, tels le vinyle et la fausse fourrure, que par sa vision d’une femme forte et libre.

Le Musée des beaux-arts de Montréal célèbre avec grand art ce précurseur de la création de mode et de beauté, qui depuis le début de sa carrière a osé créer autrement et a fait de la femme son intarissable muse.

L’exposition se déroulera du 2 mars jusqu’au 8 septembre 2019 au MBAM – 514 285-1600

H Y D R ATAT I O N AU MAX PARCE QUE l’allure de notre tignasse influe sur notre moral, pour se sentir bien et belle, il faut en prendre soin et assurer sa santé et son apparence !

Pour arborer une chevelure parfaite, il faut choisir des produits qui la nourrissent, l’hydratent et la soignent en profondeur. Voici mes coups de cœur !

DE KLORANE

Baume après-shampooing pour cheveux sec au beurre de mangue, 15,25 $ les 150 ml, disponible en pharmacie DE WELLA

Masque réparation intense Fusionflex, 21,98 $ les 150 ml. disponible en pharmacie DE PANTENE

Traitement Intense Rescue Shots Pro-V, 7,99 $ pour la boîte de 3 unités, disponible en pharmacie D’HERBAL ESSENCES

Shampooing Hydratant sans sulfate Honey & Vitamin B Bio-Renew, 7,99 $ les 400 ml, disponible en pharmacie 45

S A L U T, B E A U T É

Quel est votre type de peau ?

De quoi au juste a-t-elle besoin ?

POUR AVOIR UN BEAU TEINT, il

faut en prendre soin quotidiennement. Ce n’est un secret pour personne, la peau du visage est constamment agressée par la pollution, par les aléas du climat, par les rayons solaires… et il faut y porter une attention toute particulière.

Démaquillants, exfoliants, hydratants, l’action des soins cutanés est de plus en plus pointue. Résultat ultime visé : une peau zéro défaut. Mais pour cela, il faut s’y mettre sérieusement.

Comment bien soigner sa peau ?

46

20 ANS DE CLARINS Brume beauté hydratante My Clarins, 22 $ les 100 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Clarins DE CLARINS Crème fraîcheur hydratant My Clarins, 27 $ les 50 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Clarins DE MARCELLE Gel-Crème Hydratant jour et nuit 24h Hydractive, 25,95 $ les 50 ml, disponible à Jean Coutu 30 ANS DE CHANEL Fluide Hydratant Illuminateur Hydra Beauty Camellia Water Cream, 85 $ les 30 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Chanel DE DIOR Intense Rescue Sérum-en-huile revitalisant signes de l’âge retardés Capture Youth, 120 $ les 30 ml, disponible à La Baie D’OLAY Crème Hydratant Actif Regenerist Whip, 39,99 $ les 50 ml, disponible à Pharmaprix

Bien la démaquiller ? L’hydrater ?…

Il y a aujourd’hui tellement de choix que c’en devient mêlant.

Le choix d’un produit de soin est d’une importance cruciale, puisque la pureté, l’hydratation et l’élasticité de l’épiderme en dépendent.

Rien de tel donc que le diagnostic d’une professionnelle avisée pour en cerner les besoins spécifiques et nous aider à faire des choix éclairés en la matière.

Cette saison, les marques de cosmétiques sauront vous combler à coup sûr. Il y a du choix, et ce, pour tous les types de peaux.

40 ANS DE GUERLAIN Huile-en-Eau Jeunesse Abeille Royale, 188 $ les 30 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Guerlain DE RODIAL Soin pour le cou et décolleté Dragon’s Blood, 80 $ les 100 ml, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix DE FRESH Crème de nuit Lotus Youth Dream Face Recovery, 60 $ les 50 ml, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix 50 ANS D’ALUMIER Sérum Hydratant Alimience A.G.E., 145 $ les 30 ml, disponible au alumiermd.com D’ESTÉE LAUDER Perfectionist Pro Peeling lissant Instantané, 98 $ les 50ml, disponible à La Baie DE VICHY Soin anti-âge Liftactiv Collagen Spacialist, 59,99 $ les 50 ml, disponible à Jean Coutu

COSMETICSMAG.COM

| SPRING 2019

ASK A COSA WINNER

Q:

So c ia l m e d ia p o s e s so m e b i g c ha l l e n g e s fo r BA s .

W ha t a re th ey a n d how d o yo u ove rc o m e th e m?

COSA WINNER

Emily Brown Cosmetics Manager, Shoppers Drug Mart, Halifax

A:

READ (A LOT!)

RELATE YOUR OPINIONS

Customers are more knowledgeable than ever with their makeup and skincare. BAs need to be on their A-game to answer any questions or clarify misleading information customers may have from the internet. Aside from attending training schools, I read a lot of articles on LinkedIn and the internet related to the beauty industry.

Once customers enter the store, you have even less time to grab their attention and give them valuable information on a product or brand because they have already done all the research at home. One way to tackle this is letting the customer know why you love the product as well. This gives you the chance to share some information with the customer and to keep that dialogue going.

EXPLAIN & EDUCATE

On the flip side, some customers are less informed because of how misleading social media can be. Clients want what they see on social media even though it may not be what they need, and trying to explain that to them can be close to impossible.

However, when customers are misinformed by social media it gives BAs an opportunity to sit the customer down and share correct information, tips and tricks that customers canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get from social media.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Emily Brown is the cosmetics manager at Shoppers Drug Mart, Halifax, and the winner of 2018â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cosmetics Outstanding Service Award for Best Service in a Drugstore, Retailer Nominated.

HAVE A QUESTION FOR A COSA WINNER? Email us at Cosmetics@cosmeticsmag.com

47

Sales Grow Where Technology Reaches Train Beauty Advisors everywhere Lower Costs Track results easily Watch sales grow

We are the #1 digital beauty training resource.

Partner with us for your sales success!

E-LEARNING • EDUCATION PORTALS • LMS BEAUTESCHOOL.COM • CONTACT@BEAUTESCHOOL.COM 905-607-0500

ADVERTORIAL

The Role of the Beauty Advisor in the World of Artificial Intelligence Mickey Tortorelli, CEO, Founder, BeauteSchool Inc.

The latest technologies are creating a new consumer who is increasingly autonomous.

The result? The role of Beauty Advisors (BAs) is shifting.

A few weeks ago, I attended the WWD Digital Beauty Forum in New York. Powered by innovative and disruptive technologies, the forum convened the industry’s biggest names and today’s most cutting-edge digital solutions to reveal remarkable advancements in the beauty sphere and explore what’s coming next.

Augmented Reality (AR), Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Mixed Reality (MR) are the newest technologies and innovations that have been developed outside our industry.

You’re likely familiar with Modiface, L’Oréal Makeup Genius and YouCam — just a few of the apps that allow customers to virtually try on products, hairstyles and accessories.

“Creating value is key,” says Guive Balooch, Vice President of L’Oréal’s Global Technology Incubator. The beauty market is still at the beginning of these innovations but it recognizes their value. Looking ahead, Balooch pointed out that beauty brands interested in utilizing technology must fill consumer needs while providing information they can act on.

Some ways that technology can fill a need include: finding the right shade of foundation, identifying a serum with the right actives, or trying on makeup before purchasing it.

These needs are not new, but new tech means customers are now equipped with tools that create higher levels of independence in their shopping experience than ever before.

Shifts in our industry will continue to challenge BAs as newer technologies emerge. At BeauteSchool, we are proactively responding, developing Artificial Intelligence to deliver educational content that empowers BAs. Our mission is to enable them to provide personalized and knowledgeable consultations that are in sync with the new consumer, so that they will always be essential to the consumer’s decision-making process. We envision a future in which technology completely supports Beauty Advisors as they successfully meet their customers’ changing needs.

INGREDIENT 101

ACID TEST

PH-AAAAAYs

This creamy mask is made with moisturizing avocado, antibacterial manuka honey, kaolin clay to absorb excess oil and a PHA to provide gentle exfoliation while you sleep.

How polyhydroxy acids, the third and most gentle generation of exfoliating hydroxy acids, became the latest skincare superheroes

GLOW RECIPE

By Lora Grady

JAZZED

ABOUT

acids (including alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic acid, and beta-hydroxy acids like salicylic acid) are known for their powerful exfoliating abilities — and for causing skin irritation. That’s why we’re celebrating the triumphant arrival of gentle polyhydroxy acids (PHAs).

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) were discovered by Dr. Eugene Van Scott and Dr. Ruey Yu in the early 1970s.

They found AHAs provided smoothing and anti-aging benefits, and the duo went on to found skincare company Neostrata in 1988. (Hydroxy acids were actually used hundreds of years prior to this discovery: Cleopatra is said to have bathed in sour donkey milk, and lactic acid falls under the category of AHAs.) Both AHAs and BHAs reduce visible signs of aging, but can increase sensitivity to sunlight.

Enter PHAs. Van Scott and Yu discovered polyhydroxy acids in the 1990s and they began to appear in Neostrata products shortly after.

Years later, in 2016 once the patent held by Neostrata expired, PHAs 50

like gluconolactone began trending in Korean beauty, and today they’re popping up all over, from Glow Recipe to Glossier.

“They perform the same role of exfoliation as AHAs and BHAs, removing dead skin cells to smooth skin and improve overall tone,” says Dr. Katie Beleznay, clinical instructor in the Department of Dermatology at the University of British Columbia.

But PHAs are proven to be less harsh on skin, she says, and are suitable for all skin types — even sensitive skin.

“PHAs are larger in molecular size, so they penetrate slower, which means more moisture and less irritation,” says Patricia Clare, national training manager for Neostrata.

“They also have natural waterbinding ability, drawing moisture to the skin.”

These powerful antioxidants don’t cause sun sensitivity and reduce redness caused by rosacea and cosmetic procedures. Use a couple of times a week and then increase to once or twice daily, to gently reveal smooth, glowing skin.

Take off your makeup at the end of the day with a mild face wash formulated with PHA gluconolactone.

NEOSTRATA

Restore PHA Facial Cleanser, $30, Shopper’s Drug Mart.

Sensitive skin loves hypoallergenic products — this one, which also contains gluconolactone, exfoliates while moisturizing and conditioning.

GLOSSIER

Glossier Solution, $29, Glossier.com.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2019

Photo: Adobe Stock (beakers).

WE’RE GETTING ACIDS . Hydroxy

Avocado Melt Sleeping Mask, $59, Sephora.

#BEAUTYGRAM

BEAUTY KING The Look: Velvet Underground Why We Love It: This pomegranate smoky eye and floral blazer combo is killer.

The gentle elegance has us swooning.

Natural-born innovator, Toronto-based makeup artist, drag performer and model JayJay Kings creates a stir from the runway to Instagram. From his out-there makeovers to his collaboration with Bougie Beauty, he’s known for boundary-pushing visuals, including different-coloured eyes and asymmetric looks. #longlivetheking.

By Stephanie Hicks

THE TALENT: JAYJAY KINGS @jayjaykings

Photos: Instagram/JayJay Kings.

The Look: Red or Dead Why We Love It: It’s hard not to love a red dress, red shades and a bold red shadow. Red hot!

The Look: Ilumination Station Why We Love It: With a complexion that shimmers like diamonds, you don’t need anything else — just let your base shine.

SPRING 2019 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

The Look: Smells Like Teen Spirit Why We Love It: The grunge denim and plaid look is amped up by a standout green lip. It’s so bold we know Kurt Cobain would have approved.

The Look: Smoke Signals Why We Love It: When you mix colour on a smoky eye, it’s easy to veer into peacock territory. Kings’s unique palette blends green into pink for an ethereal finish.

51

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