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cosmetics THE innovation issue UNWRAPPING SPRING’S MOST EXCITING NEW BEAUTY!


THE SKIN ITSELF INSPIRED BIODERMA TO CREATE THE 1ST MICELLAR WATER.

AT BIODERMA, SKIN IS OUR PASSION, OUR EXPERTISE, OUR MODEL. IT IS BY OBSERVING SKIN’S BIOLOGY AND ANALYSING WHAT IT NATURALLY DOES BEST, THAT WE FOUND THE INSPIRATION TO CREATE DERMATOLOGICAL SKIN CARE THAT RESTORES ITS NATURAL BALANCE TO STRENGHTEN IT. IN A LASTING WAY.


UNEQUALLED CLEANSING AND MAKE-UP REMOVING EFFICACY. VERY HIGH TOLERANCE. Hygiene for sensitive skin

Perfect harmony with the skin

Sensitive skin is unable to properly fulfil its role as a barrier against irritating agents. Putting make-up on, removing it, pollution, external stress: day af ter day, skin is weakened and irritated. To preserve its protective film and to prevent dehydration, the skin must be cleansed gently and as effectively as possible.

It s m i cel l es a re ma d e u p of a dermatological agent that is very similar to the composition of the skin to obtain high tolerance and maximum comfort. Its pure formula with the right physiological pH guarantees high tolerance. Skin is clean, comfortable and soothed. In a lasting way.

The 1st micellar water

A legendary product

Created by the Laboratoire BIODERMA biologists 20 years ago, Sensibio H 2 O dermatological micellar water is a genuine revolution for sensitive skin. In one simple gesture, micelles capture impurities. Deep and healthy cleansing that respects the skin’s natural balance, without rinsing, for both face and eyes.

Set ting the standard in terms of dermatological safety, Sensibio H2O has been rapidly accepted and prescribed by dermatologists. Its unparalleled capacity for removing make-up and its high tolerance also make it a favourite among professional make-up artists. Embraced by millions of women, an iconic product is born.

REF.#1 AU/IN CANADA*

Sensibio H2O 500 ml - $19.90

BIOLOGY AT THE SERVICE OF DERMATOLOGY


cosmetics SPRING 2018

BEAUTY BUZZ 10 Hot Ticket

Beauty dates you need.

13 Flower Hour

New spring florals bloom in everything from our fave fragrances to foods.

NEW IN STORES

16 Must-Have Makeup 18 Sleek, Chic Hair Care 20 Superstar Skincare 23 Fresh Fragrances 4

INSPO 24 Rounded Cat Eye

Forget harsh heavily lined eyes; a softer touch gives a fresher finish.

25 Textured Ponytail

The spring pony is vibrantly ’80s inspired and full of texture.

F E AT U R E S & G A L L E R I E S 27 The Future of Beauty

Five pioneering industry inventions — from a sunscreen-application alert to a mobile laboratory.

29 A Fine Line

Skincare is evolving to tackle the issues of acne and aging simultaneously.

35 #BeautyTroop

We hit the stores to hear what you’re saying and what you’re selling.


cosmetics Director, Beauty Publications & Awards James R. Hicks Editor-in-Chief Alex Laws Art Director Sandi Pilon Web Editor Heather Marrin Creative and Production Manager Stephanie Hicks Web Content and Design Marrin Hicks Creative Inc. Editorial inquiries: alaws@cosmeticsalliance.ca Advertising & event inquiries: jhicks@cosmeticsalliance.ca Vol. 47, No. 1 — Spring 2018

Photos: Shutterstock (geometric background), @dolcegabbana (girls in flower dresses), Instagram @ritaremark (Rita Remark).

Cosmetics Alliance President and CEO Darren Praznik

ADVISOR TOOLS 37 Salut, Beauté

In French, Vânia Aguiar gives the scoop on what’s hot in Québec — and beyond!

44 COSA Conversations

Lifetime Achievement Award winners Romaine Bond and Kathleen Toole share their innovative sales tips.

48 Truffle Hunting

The rich funghi enriches shampoos to serums.

IN EVERY ISSUE 7

Editor’s & Publisher’s notes

8

Contributors 

The whip-smart talent behind these pages.

49 #BeautyGram 

We take inspiration from the Insta feed of manicurist and beauty pro Rita Remark.

Cover photography by Liam Mogan.

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Director, Finance & Administration Michele Follows Manager, Digital Media & Communications Amy Sutherland Director, Media & Communications Susan Nieuwhof Manager, Membership & Administration Michele Davis Manager, Beauty Specialist Certification Program Diane Kozak Cosmetics Alliance, Suite 102, 420 Britannia Rd E, Mississauga, ON L4Z 3L5 5


UP FRONT

SPRING THINGS It’s Awards Season!

Photos: Photos: Tktktktktktk David Hawes (Hicks), Max Abadian (Laws).

AS I WRITE THIS COLUMN today we

are just about to watch the Oscars this weekend and the Golden Globes have already been presented. Awards season is truly here! Speaking of which, we are thrilled at the new format of our Canadian Beauty Awards, which have already had such a great response for the beauty industry. (Check out page 33 to access the finalist list.) We received over 100 nominations, that’s three times more than last year. And we have added more makeup categories along with hair care, skincare, sun care, body care and a men’s category — and we are very excited about presenting them on May 17. And for all of you working at the beauty counters across Canada, it’s an exciting time for you as well. Because spring means more new products and more customers, too, as we all come out of hibernation. So, enjoy this special time of year and celebrate all the new innovation that is coming your way — I’m sure your customers will love it as well.

Jim Hicks, DIRECTOR, BEAUTY PUBLICATIONS AND AWARDS @JIMHICKSTWEETS

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Shiny and Bright THERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT SPRING that feels

fresh and exciting, and it’s not just the colourful cosmetics that lift our spirits before the weather can. New books, new films, new looks — it’s that last pause before summer where we get to think about who we want to be when the sun comes out. This issue is dedicated to innovation and reinvention: From our picks of the year’s most visionary advances (page 27) to technical skincare developed to effectively target the “double threat” of acne and aging (“A Fine Line,” page 29) the industry is evolving to treat our concerns of the present and future all at once. Meanwhile, sparkling, pigmented, high-performance formulas make it easier than ever to change up our looks altogether. We welcome COSA winners Romaine Bond and Kathleen Toole to share how they keep things energized on counter (page 44), which if you’ve met either of them, you’ll know is second nature. After all, innovation is great, but so are having fun and being yourself, so don’t change too much!

Alex Laws, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF @MISS_LAWS @LEX_LAWS

7


UP FRONT

CONTRIBUTORS The faces behind the issue and the innovations they are most excited about

Antonia Whyatt

@antoniawhy

@romainebond

WHAT YOU WORKED ON: “COSA Conversations” (page 44). MOST INNOVATIVE DISCOVERY: “There are a lot of crazy ideas out there — but brilliant ones too. I see lots recycled. Some are improved upon, but others are doomed to failure just like the older version! You have to keep trying.” INVENTION YOU WOULD MAKE: “I live in the beautiful Okanagan Valley and enjoy being outside; however, my cosmetics do not always adjust to the temperature fluctuations. We can get -20 °C in the winter and +40 °C in the summer. I like to keep a lipstick and a hand cream with me and I hate finding them melted or frozen in my purse or parked car!” 8

MOST INNOVATIVE DISCOVERY: “Finally found out why popping your zits is so bad, it causes an inflammatory chain reaction!”

INVENTION YOU WOULD MAKE: “Something to allow for instantaneous travel so that I could pop between all of the places I’m from or have lived (London, New York, Toronto) without the hassle of airports.”

Courtney Greenberg

@courtgreenberg

WHAT YOU WORKED ON: “The Future of Beauty” (page 27). MOST INNOVATIVE DISCOVERY: “The interactive mirror! It’s the perfect solution to finding out whether certain products are working on your skin and keeps a record of that over time.”

INVENTION YOU WOULD MAKE: ”An app where you can rate all kinds of beauty products, from toothpaste to shampoo. You could scan or take pictures of products to keep tabs on what you’re using, as well as browse what your friends use.”

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018

Photos: Tktktktktktk

Romaine Bond

WHAT YOU WORKED ON: “A Fine Line” (page 29) tackling acne and aging.


HUDSON’S BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS

HUDSON’S BAY BEAUTY MENTOR AS CANADA’S PREMIER BEAUTY DESTINATION, Hudson’s Bay understands the vital role beauty experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are key reasons why customers develop loyalty to our stores. We scouted the country in search of the finest beauty experts to share their passion and insight. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at Hudson’s Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT WORKING AT HBC? THERE ARE SO MANY REASONS that I love working at Hudson’s Bay. I am inspired everyday by our customers. Each and everyone brings me a sense of accomplishment, but what comes most to my mind is the ongoing support system that I receive from management and my co-workers. I have always felt empowered to make decisions that are best for the customer and their needs.

WHAT IS THE KEY TO GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE? I ALWAYS LIKE TO WELCOME our customers with a warm greeting and welcome them to our store. I consider our customers like guests in our home and offer them a pleasant shopping experience. A genuine and natural rapport easily enables me to build a relationship with them. This creates a loyal and lasting connection with me. Customers love to feel special and appreciated from start to finish.

ANDREA COOK Fragrance Counter Manager Hudson’s Bay, Masonville, ON 18 years of beauty experience Email address: beautymentor@hbc.com

WHO WAS YOUR MENTOR WHEN YOU STARTED OUT? THAT’S EASY. Her name is Jean and she worked across from me at another counter. I immediately loved listening to her talk with the customers. You never knew if she had just met the client or if she had known them for years. She was so knowledgeable, and she honestly cared about everyone. The “sale” was personal. I was always inspired by her, and I wanted to be able to offer the same level of service. Feel free to reach out to me at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at beautymentor@hbc.com.


BEAUTY BUZZ

1.

Hot Ticket

Mark your calendar with spring’s beauty happenings 2. 3.

2. Shake It Out Get some volume inspiration of the follicular variety: Bon Jovi is performing in Montreal April 4, Ottawa May 7 and Toronto May 12. 3. Pretty Funny Amy Schumer stars in I Feel Pretty launching April 20. Co-starring Michelle Williams, the plot may resonate, but hopefully not too strongly — Schumer plays a cosmetics company employee who feels lesser than, until she hits her head and wakes up thinking she’s gorgeous.

4.

4. Festival Fever Outdoor music season begins again with Coachella, April 13 to 22, and Toronto’s Field Trip, June 2 and 3, among others. Whether you’re there or not, the performers (Beyoncé and Emily Haines, par example) and revellers are sure to fill your Insta feed with wild and sparkly spring looks. 5. Party Time! May 17 is Cosmetics magazine’s first ever Canadian Beauty Awards. Dust off your sequinned dress or watch from your TV manicure station at Cosmeticsmag.com. — Alex Laws 10

5. COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018

Photo courtesy of Cosmoprof (Cosmoprof); Instagram @bonjovi (album cover), courtesy of Coachella (Coachella).

1. Innovation Station Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is an explosion of new beauty initiatives from March 15 to 19 spanning perfumery, cosmetics, hair, nails and beauty. We may not be in attendance but we will be following industry unveilings from the Italian convention online and on social.


HUDSON’S BAY, CANADA’S MOST APPRECIATED BEAUTY EXPERTS

HUDSON’S BAY BEAUTY MENTOR AS CANADA’S PREMIER BEAUTY DESTINATION, Hudson’s Bay understands the vital role beauty experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are key reasons why customers develop loyalty to our stores. We scouted the country in search of the finest beauty experts to share their passion and insight. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at Hudson’s Bay, visit WWW.HBC.COM.

ONNIE ASUNCION PEBENITO Fragrance Counter Manager Hudson’s Bay, Metrotown, BC 9 years of beauty experience Email address: beautymentor@hbc.com

WHAT IS THE KEY TO GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE?

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT WORKING AT HBC?

WHEN A CUSTOMER walks by your department, you engage: she may or may not buy but that is the start of your relationship. You would have earned her trust and friendship. The key to great customer service is building good relationships with your customers.

HUDSON’S BAY is almost synonymous to Canada because of its history and to be part of that is a great honour and privilege. To come to work every day alongside an amazing group of people: not just in my department, but in the whole store comes in as a bonus!

WHO WAS YOUR MENTOR WHEN YOU STARTED OUT? MICHELLE CRAVEN was the Cosmetic Manager who encouraged me to start a career in Cosmetics. My first Account Executive, Camilla Toy was the person who believed in me. She encouraged and inspired me to try my very best. Feel free to reach out to me at any time, regardless of the question. Email me at beautymentor@hbc.com.


S O N OYA MIZUN O - ACTRESS

Beauty sparks the energy inside you. ReNeura Technology™ reboots skin’s sensors, making it more responsive to skincare. A sense-stirring hydrating experience. A dewy glow from within. #EssentialEnergy. Inspired by neuroscience. Made with soul. Essential Energy Moisturizing Cream NEW


BEAUTY BUZZ

ANNA SUI

Flower Hour

We’ve not only stopped to smell the roses — we’re wearing them and eating them, too

Sheer Flower Lipstick in Pink Ranunculus, $40, at Annasui.com.

1. 2.

WE KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING:

4.

@DOLCEGABBANA

Illustration: Shutterstock

@NAEEMKHANNYC

@MEDINACAFE

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

3.

@ANNASUI

1. Baby’s breath and birds of paradise petals were pinned into tresses at Rodarte S/S 2018. 2. Designer Naeem Khan was inspired by her childhood in India, where the women in her family wore flowers in their hair. 3. The Lavender Latte at Café Medina in Vancouver is worth the whole 425 pennies. 4. Inspired by the 1960s free love movement, M.A.C makeup artist Pat McGrath adorned models with hand-painted daisies. 5. Dolce & Gabanna’s S/S18 floral-focused collection.

@RODARTE

“Floral, for spring? Groundbreaking!” (Yes, we also see Miranda Priestly played by Meryl Streep shaking her head at us) but we just can’t help ourselves. If we are what we eat, then a 2018 trend report published by global buyers and experts at Whole Foods suggests that foodies are about to bloom. With floral flavours finding their way into everything from our lattes and granola to our side salads, and rosewater infusing marshmallows and moisturizers, edible flowers are no longer reserved for fancy restaurants, and the appetite for florals doesn’t stop at the kitchen. From daisies hand-painted on the cheeks of models at Anna Sui’s S/S 2018 show in New York to baby’s breath being woven into lavish floral crowns that overflowed onto arms like sporadically placed corsages at Rodarte’s S/S 2018 show in Paris, to the fashion (like, all of the fashion), it was impossible to ignore the favouring of fresh botanicals by designers, hair stylists, and makeup artists alike on catwalks around the world.— Heather Marrin

5. 13


From skin firmness, springs youth. New Extra-Firming Jour & Nuit Extract of kangaroo flower from Australia, with a strong regenerating capacity.

Firms, lifts, reduces wrinkles. At 40, put the spring back in your skin. Introducing the new Extra-Firming range – a Clarins Laboratories innovation – that reactivates firmness at its source, thanks to kangaroo flower extract. Your skin regains its youthful spring – from within. Extra-Firming: more than 8 plant extracts leave your skin • smoother • firmer • more radiant

89%

OF WOMEN

SAW FIRMER-LOOKING SKIN. * *Satisfaction test - Day & Night Cream, all skin types - 107 women - 14 days.

The Clarins Plus Skin firmness has always been at the heart of Clarins Research. Through permanent innovation, we offer you a new optimized formula: Extra-Firming.

Official online store: www.clarins.com

It’s all about you.


NEW IN STORES MAKEUP |

HAIRCARE | SKINCARE | FRAGRANCE

Photos: Shutterstock (watercolour background).

All Hail! Cooler-than-cool Canadian designer Hayley Elsaesser has joined forces with fun, accessible Montreal-based makeup line Annabelle Cosmetics in an innovative limited-edition collaboration. Elsaesser, whose trademark vibrant hair and signature bold lip complement her bright, cartoony prints, is offering all her fashion fans a taste of her beauty look by pairing with the Canada-wide cosmetics brand. “I am obsessed with makeup almost as much as I’m obsessed with clothing,” says the designer whose shade names are as wild as the packaging. (Pictured above are Bugging, Pinky Puppy, Cactus and Banana Yey. ) Six of the fashion-forward hues are available in stores, plus there are four edgy online exclusives. We’ll take one of each. HAYLEY ELSAESSER X ANNABELLE COSMETICS The Outrageous Collection,

$9, at drugstores and mass retailers.

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

15


Must-Have

1.

MAKEUP From natural shades to pops of pastels, spring collections have a little of everything (even sparkles!) By Alex Laws 2.

5. 7.

6.

16


NEW IN STORES

3.

1. Beauty Roots

The antidote to dry, dull winter lips could well be Bite Beauty’s new spring Amuse Bouche Liquified Lipstick collection. The 10 vibrant shades are infused with moisturizing monoi butter and coconut oil, so you get a full-colour look, with no dryness. From burnt orange Chicory to coral Clove and deep indigo Kohlrabi, each is inspired by root vegetables and their natural vibrancy. BITE BEAUTY Amuse

Bouche Liquified Lipsticks, $28, at Bite Beauty stores and Sephora.

2. Neutral Party

4.

The spring collection from Bare Minerals Gen Nude Patent Lip Lacquer and Powder Blush have every nude inclination covered. The powder blush comes in six buildable shades, designed to give a natural rosy glow and mimic the skin’s natural flush. Pair with your pick of 18 nude high-shine lipsticks with moisturizing algae and aloe. BARE MINERALS

Gen Nude Patent Lip Lacquer, $23, and Bare

Minerals Gen Nude Powder Blush, $30, at Sephora.

3. Spring Sparkle

Take your lid look to a whole new level with the pigment-packed spring offerings from Stila. The pearlescent Shimmer & Glow Liquid Eye Shadows start out wet and dry down to a sheen with major shimmer and stamina. Then the Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadows up the drama with three Bohemian Beauty limited-edition shades for spring 2018: sheer copper, rose gold and bronze, each with the perfect balance of colour and sparkle. STILA Shimmer & Glow

Liquid Eye Shadow, $31, Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow, $31, exclusively at Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart.

4. Colour Pop

It may be a while before we can break out our proper spring wardrobes, but that does not mean we can’t get our hands on spring colours. Joe Fresh’s eight new pastel shades each have a cool, dusty look and give a high-shine gel-like finish, which lasts up to two weeks,

without needing a lamp. Swipe on Cantelope, Kiwi or Coconut for an extra tropical vibe. JOE FRESH Gel Look

polish, $5 each, at Loblaws from April.

5. Big Lash

Known for its mascara masterpieces Bad Gal and They’re Real, Benefit launches another buzz-worthy lash intensifier, Bad Gal Bang. True to form, the mascara gives a full, almost false look. The matte black tube houses a streamlined flexible wand that gets right in from root to tip and contains a flakefree, water-resistant formula with strengthening Provitamin B5. BENEFIT Bad Gal

Bang mascara, $32, at Shoppers Drug Mart and Sephora.

6. New Nudes

Australian cosmetics line Nude by Nature has reached shelves in 1,000 Shoppers Drug Mart stores across Canada. With a commitment to using naturally derived ingredients, these are high-performing products spanning concealers, to blushes, founda-

tions to lipsticks, including native Australian ingredients like Kakadu Plum, said to contain the world’s highest dose of Vitamin C. Standouts include the creamy concealer, which blends in easily and illuminating primer that leaves skin dewy and radiant. NUDE BY NATURE

from $18 to $36, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

7. Glow to Go

Speed up the approach of summer — appearance-wise, anyway — with the Nars Easy Glowing Collection. Dust on a sun-kissed glow with one of the two limited-edition illuminating cheek palettes, made with a water-activated formula designed to sink right into the skin, for a more natural finish. Mix and match for definition and dimension, or stick to one shimmering shade. NARS Limited-Edition

Cheek Palette in Rêve Salé or Coucher de Soleil, $62 each, exclusively at Nordstrom.

17


NEW IN STORES

1. Trés Chic

French beauty brand Sisley has turned its 40-plus years of expertise to haircare. Focusing on scalp health, Hair Rituel by Sisley comprises six treatment products made from powerful plant extracts, essential oils, vitamins, minerals and proteins. Encompassing two shampoos, a conditioner, a hair serum, oil and mask, it’s a touch of luxe for your locks. HAIR RITUEL by Sisley

from $95, now at Holt Renfrew and at Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue in May.

2. Au Natural

Formulated with coconut milk and anti-oxidant-rich meadowfoam, each product in R.A.W Biolage line is free of artificial colorants, sulfates, parabens or silicones, and is made of ingredients from at least 86 percent natural origin. BIOLAGE R. A.W.

Colour Care Shampoo and Conditioner, each $25, Heat Styling Primer, $22, at Matrixprofessional.ca.

3. Perfect Prep

Lock in colour with this shade-saving pre-shampoo treatment that acts as a protective barrier to seal in pigments 18

during washing. An antioxidant blend of hibiscus flower and apple blossom strengthens hair’s protective film. PHYTO Phytomillesime

Color Locker Pre-Shampoo, $48, at Murale.

4. Gentle Touch

Backed by 20 years of research, Clairol has released a hair colour that offers full grey coverage without ammonia and the risk of allergic reactions that come with permanent hair colours. Scientists changed the traditional dye molecule structure by adding what they call “a hero’s cape” to avoid immune system triggers that cause allergic reactions.

Sleek, Chic

HAIR CARE We’re tending to our tresses this season with these powerhouse brighteners and colour-saving treatments By Heather Marrin 1.

2.

CLAIROL Nice’n Easy

3.

Colour Care, $12, at mass drugstores

5. Air Dry

Formulated with abyssinian oil, derived from a plant native to the Ethiopian Highlands, John Frieda’s latest, non-sticky styling foam nourishes your strands without adding any extra weight and works to enhance your waves as your hair dries — no hot tools required. JOHN FRIEDA® Frizz

Ease® Dream Curls® Air Dry Waves Styling Foam, $13, at drugstores.

5. COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018

4.


Superstar

1.

SKINCARE Lighten up: These latest launches are designed to sink in and brighten skin By Alex Laws 9.

8. 5.

4. 7.

20

6.


NEW IN STORES

2.

1. Space Saver

This smoothing, multi-purpose oil turns to nature for inspiration: The seeds of spring flowers are blended with green tea. It’s packed with antioxidants and gives skin and hair a smooth finish. AMORE Pacific Botani-

cal Radiance Oil, $135, at Sephora.

2. Tea Party

3.

particles to penetrate deeper into the skin. This is paired with the nourishing and hydrating Blue Therapy Red Algae Uplift Cream, which leaves skin radiant. BIOTHERM Blue Ther-

apy Red Algae Uplift Intensive Daily Firming Cure, $62, Blue Therapy Red Algae Uplift Firming Rosy Cream, $84, at Shoppers Drug Mart and Hudson’s Bay.

Black Tea Complex, made from kombucha, a.k.a. fermented sweet black tea, features in Fresh’s new offerings. In Black Tea Kombucha Facial Treatment Essence it helps minimize damage caused by pollution, and in the rich, botanical-scented Black Tea Age Delay Body Cream with nopal flower extract, it soothes dry skin.

4. Up the Volume

FRESH Black Tea Kom-

line, $75 to $105, at Lierac.ca.

bucha Facial Treatment Essence, $85, Black Tea Age Delay Body Cream, $88, at Nordstrom and Sephora from April.

3. Deep Dive

Red Algae’s preservative properties are tapped in Blue Therapy Red Algae Uplift Cure — a serum with super-fine

Using its 25 years of industry experience, Laboratoires Lierac tackles loss of volume within the skin in its Lift Integral line. Featuring mahogany extract which increases tension and a purple tulip extract to plump mature skin, the five-product line includes creams, serums and a mask. LIERAC Lift Integral

5. Gold Mine

A new line from Bare Minerals, Ageless Genius contains a complex of mineral gold and age-defying peptides. Antioxidant-packed ginseng root and collagen-boosting

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

beech bud extract also feature in the rich serum, while the neck cream gets a lift from anti-aging Edelweiss extract. BARE MINERALS Ageless

Genius Firming & Wrinkle Smoothing Serum, $78, Eye Cream, $60, Neck Cream, $55, now at Bareminerals.com and Sephora Eaton Centre at the end of March.

6. Strong Defence The newest addition to the millennialfocused No. 7 Early Defence range is the Glow Activating Serum. Calming rice peptides (chains of amino acids) get to work while a patented antioxidant complex protects the skin by neutralizing free radicals.

NO.7 Early Defence Glow

Activating Serum, $31, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

7. Energy Fix

Based around a patented new oil that spreads and absorbs quickly into the skin, Shiseido’s new Essential Energy line comes in three luxurious textures. The gel, rich and day creams each contain citrus unshiu peel extract and bio-hyaluronic acid to provoke hydration

of the skin from the inside, while tea and pearl extracts impart a dewy glow. SHISEIDO Essential

Energy Moisturizing Cream, Gel Cream and Day Cream, $64 each, at Hudson’s Bay and Sephora.

8. Vitamin Boost

A citrus scent accompanies a new rich-textured cream from this Spanish skincare company. High levels of vitamin C have an antioxidant action, helping to combat dark spots and brighten the complexion as well as boost collagen. NATURA BISSÉ C+C

Vitamin Cream, $161, at Murale.

9. Collagen Call

This super serum encourages skin renewal with a formula that’s packed with anti-agers. High concentrations of CoQ10 and hyaluronic acid strengthen and hydrate the skin, while copper peptides boost collagen and help give it a tightening effect. KAT BURKI Complete B

Repair Biocell Correcting Serum, $350, at Murale from April.

21


POLLUTION: INVISIBLE YET HARMFUL.

GUARD

Complex

TM

Global Action HIGHLY INNOVATIVE COMPLEX ■ ■

■ ■

Every day, both outdoors and indoors, our skin is exposed to environmental pollution. Most of the time it is not visible to the naked eye but pollution does have an effect on our general health and that of our skin. The sources of pollution are varied: fine particles contained in industrial smoke, cigarettes, fireplaces, cars (smog), which followed by exposure to UV rays, makes them even more harmful. Also, let us not forget overexposure to radiation: UV rays, infrared and blue lights emanating from electronic devices. The effects on the skin are multiple and progressive over time. Pollution weakens the natural protective barrier of the skin and contributes to its premature aging. ■

Kakadu Plum Extract (contains 100 times more vitamin C than an orange)

Cleanses and detoxifies the skin. Protects the skin against the harmful effects of environmental stress and pollution. Prevents adhesion of air pollutants. Helps strengthen the natural defenses of the skin. Helps to repair the damage caused by pollution.

Polysaccharides

White Marrabium Extract

YOUR ALLIES Marcelle offers a global solution which targets all the environmental stress factors including pollution. In 2 simple steps your skin is cleansed, protected and radiant.

CLEAN + DETOXIFY ANTI-POLLUTION MICELLAR FOAMING CLEANSER Cleans gently and removes all traces of impurities, make-up and pollutants. ■ Leaves an anti-stick protective film that prevents polluting particles from adhering to the surface of the skin. Results: Clean, fresh, undried skin and protection against the harmful effects of environmental stressors. ■

HYPOALLERGENIC | FRAGRANCE-FREE | PARABEN-FREE DERMATOLOGIST TESTED

Causes dehydration of skin. Premature appearance of signs of skin aging: wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots (brown spots) and loss of firmness increases skin sensitivity. The skin loses its luminosity. Causes rashes and rough skin. Exacerbates acne and increases blackheads.

STRENGTHEN + REPAIR + PROTECT 24H ANTI-POLLUTION DAY & NIGHT MOISTURIZING EMULSION HIGH PROTECTION URBAN DAY CREAM SPF30 - Broad Spectrum Helps repair skin damage caused by polluting effects. Provides instant and long-lasting hydration (24H). ■ Revives complexion’s radiance while visibly improving the appearance of the skin. ■ Helps reduce the appearance of blackheads and tightens pores. Results: Protected and strengthened the skin finds its natural defenses for an intensely radiant complexion resplendent with freshness. ■ ■

All skin types

marcelle.com

HYPOALLERGENIC | FRAGRANCE-FREE | PARABEN-FREE OIL-FREE | DERMATOLOGIST TESTED ON SENSITIVE SKIN NON-COMEDOGENIC


NEW IN STORES

Fresh

1. New

Mademoiselle

FRAGRANCES The season’s sweetest scents are innovative takes on old faves with floral and fruity infusions By Alex Laws

1.

Seventeen years after Coco Mademoiselle made its mark, Olivier Polge has reimagined the scent. Fresh Sicilian orange, Calabrian bergamot and sensual Indonesian patchouli surround a soft heart of rose and jasmine. CHANEL Coco Made-

2.

moiselle Eau de Parfum Intense 50mL, $129, at Chanel counters.

2. A Bright

Bouquet

3. 4.

Inspired by a white wedding bouquet, Elie Saab stays true to his sartorial focus. The signature orange blossom and patchouli marry sultry white musks. At the heart are warm vanilla and Madagascan ylang-ylang, in a sleek bottle whose lines emulate a flowing veil. ELIE SAAB Le Parfum

In White EDP, 90 mL, $142, at Hudson’s Bay and Shoppers Drug Mart.

3. Zesty Fresh

5. SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Light Blue Italian Zest is a summer reinterpretation of the classic. For her, signature top notes of Granny Smith apple and Sicilian cedar are boosted by first-bloom lemons. In the male inter-

pretation, Calabrian Bergamot and salty aquatic notes get a citrus splash. DOLCE & GABBANA

Light Blue Italian Zest EDT 100 mL, $118, and Light Blue Italian Zest Pour Homme EDT 125 mL, $103, exclusively at Hudson’s Bay from May.

4. Sweet Shot

Aquatic l’Eau d’Issey, created by Issey Miyake in 1992, has flowed into floral realms in recent years and L’Eau d’Issey Pure Nectar de Parfum is no exception. In a chic rose-gold vessel, honey pear meets rose at the heart and creamy sandalwood at the base. L’EAU D’ISSEY Pure

Nectar de Parfum EDP 90 mL, $131, at Hudson’s Bay, and Shoppers Drug Mart Beauty Boutique.

5. Sugar & Spice

Frangipani flower, mandarin essence and soft ylang-ylang mix with romantic tuberose in La Femme Prada l’Eau. Meanwhile, L’Homme Prada l’Eau sees spicy ginger and neroli mix with warm amber and cedar for a dry, musky finish. PRADA La Femme Prada

L’Eau, 100 mL, $150, L’Homme Prada L’Eau 100 mL, $118, at Hudson’s Bay and Shoppers Drug Mart Beauty Boutique. 23


TRENDS TO TRY

Round It Out

Trend Nº 1

R O U N D E D C AT E Y E @TOMFORD

WE’VE ALL HAD the meltdown

Top: Tom Ford S/S 2018. Look: A curvy cat-eye angled towards the end of the browline . Bottom: Jason Wu S/S 2018 at New York Fashion Week. Look: Thick liner that rounds out at the corners of the lid.

24

@JASONWU

— the one that involves a lessthan-steady hand that goes awry while attempting a cat eye when you’re already five minutes late. Well, here comes the answer to our shaky little mitts: The Rounded Cat eye, a.k.a. the Cat eye’s Lazy Little Sister. The hard-lined, wing-tipped cat eye was made curvy at New York Fashion Week S/S18 by the makeup pros for Tom Ford and Jason Wu, and was donned by Selena Gomez as she sat courtside at Coach. At first glance, this look seems as easy as finger painting, but pro makeup artist for Maybelline, Grace Lee, suggests a little prep (and the right liner) can go a long way in wearability. Lee’s advice? “Trace out your shape with a pencil first.” (And arm yourself with Q-tips to clean up the edges.) Then, she says, “Apply a more opaque liner on top. This will also help with longevity.” And when it comes picking the right product, she recommends a gel liner with a brush or a gel pencil. “Liquid liner is doable, but it might be harder creating the rounded edge with the fine tip.” The result: Ultimate curve appeal. — Heather Marrin

@TOMFORD

BEST FOR:

Dinner for two to ladies night — this curvy cat eye deserves a night on the prowl

Tool Kit

NARS

Eye Paint, $32, at Sephora

MARC JACOBS BEAUTY

Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner, $31, at Sephora

MAYBELLINE

Color Tattoo in Leather, $9, at drugstores


@SADIEWILLIAMS_UK

@HAIRBYSAMMCKNIGHT

Show Pony updos made fashionable by the likes of French beauty Brigitte Bardot, hairstylist Sam McKnight created an enormous ponytail for Halpern F/W 2018 and quipped #bigisbeautiful on Instagram alongside the photo. (We couldn’t agree more.) He used hair pieces in a mix of textures, loads of hairspray and a whole lot of back-brushing to create volume, and his show ponies frolicked their way down the runway. To recreate the look, pull hair back without parting it and secure into a ponytail. If you don’t have access to hair pieces or a crimper, no problem. Braid damp hair into multiple plaits of differing thicknesses to create variety in the shapes of the waves. Undo the braids when dry to create texture that you can fluff with smooth backcombing strokes and texturizing spray. To ensure your look doesn’t leave your hair frazzled, apply a heat- protection serum or spray before using any hot tools and brush out gently using a leave-in conditioner. —Heather Marrin Top & bottom: Halpern Studio London F/W 2018. Look: Sam McKnight created this look using multiple hair pieces and he described the texturized effect as, “Business in the front and a party in the back.” Middle: Sadie Williams London Fashion Week F/W 2018. Look: A crimped mane styled by Syd Hayes is gathered with a decorative hair clip, which plays up the volume.

BEST FOR:

Taking your fave denimand-white-tee combo or LBD to the next level

@HAIRBYSAMMCKNIGHT

Photos: 2018 Spring-Summer Chanel Ready-To-Wear Show Backstage. Makeup, Chanel, Benoît Peverelli. © CHANEL 2017

IN A NOD TO HIGH-VOLUME

Trend Nº 2

M I X-T E X T U R E D P O N Y Tool Kit

VERB

Ghost Prep, $18, at Sephora.

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

OUAI

Texturizing Hair Spray, $32, at Sephora.

GHD

Contour Professional Performance Crimper, $219, at Sephora. 25


THE NEW FRAGRANCE mugler.ca


I N N O V AT I O N

1.

THE

Future OF BEAUTY

2.

Connectivity and integrated technology are the buzzwords of the industry’s coolest inventions. These five new offerings do everything from preventing burns to giving out skincare advice

3.

by Courtney Greenberg

4.

may be a thing of the past in the U.S. come summer 2018, and globally in 2019. Larocheposay.com. 2. FACE APPING

5.

Illustrations: Shuterstock

1. SUNSCREEN SIGNAL

L’Oréal has announced the launch of UV Sense, a device small enough to fit on your thumbnail and powered by your smartphone, which indicates when skin has been exposed to the sun for too long. Burns

Available in April from Swedish brand Foreo, the UFO is a pocket-sized device designed to be used with UFO Smart Masks and controlled via an app, which allows customizing of treatment settings. The masks, made from super-soft microfibre are infused with concentrated botanical oils, are applied using a programmed treatment routine using LED lights, cryoand thermo-therapy and T-sonic pulsation, which boost efficacy. Available at Foreo.com.

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

3. MOBILE LAB

The Figure machine by Romy Paris is like having a mini cosmetics lab at home. The machine connects to your smartphone and tells you which capsule of ingredients to use based on factors like environment and sleeping habits. It then mixes a formula with the capsule to create a fresh serum in seconds — a fuss-free way to maintain a personalized skincare regimen. Available at Romy.paris. 4. BRIGHT BRUSH

Candor Health’s Pro-Protector promises to keep your toothbrush — and your smile — clean. At the touch of a button, air blows over the

toothbrush so it stays dry and protected against bacteria. “Individualized hygienic storage” may make toothbrush holders a thing of the past. Available at Candorhealthproductsllc.com. 5. MIRROR, MIRROR

Voice-activated HiMirror keeps an ongoing record of your skin’s condition (such as fine lines, red spots and your complexion) by capturing images of your face with a built-in video camera. Over time, the photos are compared so the smart mirror can track the results of products used and even recommend a skincare routine. Available at Himirror.com. 27


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F E AT U R E / S E C T I O N

WHEN IT COMES TO ACNE AND AGING, THE TWO A R E N O T M U T U A L LY EXCLUSIVE. T H A N K F U L LY T H E BEAUTY INDUSTRY I S E V O LV I N G T O E X P E R T LY TA R G E T B O T H S I M U LTA N E O U S LY By Antonia Whyatt

A FINE

line

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

29


I

I N N O V AT I O N

IN MY LATE TEENS AND EARLY TWENTIES,

I comforted my spotty self with the idea that when I was older I might have a few laugh lines but I certainly wouldn’t have to contend with zits. At about 24 I entered a wrinkle-and-blemish free period and thought I was home free, then in my late thirties things started to get bumpy again. I fobbed it off on babies and exhaustion but the blemishes kept appearing. This time they chose to nestle cozily around my jawline and chin like splatters of spaghetti sauce, rather than bindi style on my forehead.

I had entered a new phase of skin anxiety that my friends and I soon dubbed “the twin horrors” — acne and aging. I found minimal comfort in the Instagram feed of Mindy Kaling who, in her 30s, poses in her zit cream, and in the honesty of Kate Winslet when she confessed at her Marie Claire UK cover shoot a few years ago, “I had a terrible bout of acne after I turned 30. I kept reading about my sodding dewy complexion and thinking, ‘Oh

I started to do my research and found that treating acne and aging simultaneously has become an area of product advancement in recent years and now, the word acne on the outside of a product doesn’t necessarily mean “dry your skin to a crisp.” In fact some of my favourite anti-aging all-star ingredients (retinol, glycolic acid and salicylic acid) have been harnessed in powerful formulations that treat spots and give skin cells exactly the boost they need to combat fine lines and dullness. “The combination of acneic and aging skin is definitely on the rise,” says Alessandra Gatti, NeoStrata’s educational development manager. “Women’s lives aren’t getting any easier, lack of sleep is a growing epidemic and we’re trying to live like superwomen every day. All this stress causes high levels of cortisol and is reflected in our skin.” Cortisol causes inflammation and excess oiliness, which leads to breakouts. Add

“I had a terrible bout of acne after I turned 30. I kept reading about my sodding dewy complexion and thinking, ‘Oh sh*t, look at me, I’m covered in bloody spots...’” — Kate Winslet sh*t, look at me, I’m covered in bloody spots, proper cystic bumps, if only they knew.” My increasingly dull, dry skin was desperate for moisture and yet I was paranoid to use heavy “mum creams” for fear of blocking my pores and encouraging more eruptions. After a few mistaken splurges on miracle serums I became product shy, a shocking turn of events for a former beauty editor. 30

fluctuating hormone levels from having babies or periods and it’s a potent recipe for complexion imperfection. Another (dirty) layer to the rise in aging and acne-prone skin is environmental. “Pollution actually has an affinity for oily skin, it sticks to it more and causes excess production of oil,” says Chloe Smith, Skinceuticals’ national education and scientific commuCOSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018


MYTH BUSTER

Popping zits spreads bacteria — false! It triggers an inflammatory response in your skin which already has an immune system in overdrive. “The white stuff coming out of a spot is actually white blood cells — they rush to the area to try to heal it, so when you attack your skin, it sends more white blood cells to help combat the assault,” says Carroll.

The Ingredients

Photos: Shutterstock (face with lines, open jar).

GLYCOLIC ACID nications lead. “I see this a lot with clientele who move to Toronto from more rural areas — all of a sudden, their skin’s a mess.” Skinceuticals took part in a study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology which found that ozone damage caused rapid collagen degradation and cell death. “Pollution does affect aging,” agrees Julia Carroll MD, director of Toronto-based Compass Dermatology. “It happens indoors, too, with fluorescent lighting — all light is a form of radiation and the free radicals damage skin on a structural level.”  Rising demand for acne and anti-aging products has led to a slew of innovations. “Breakouts used to be spoken about in the same era as your first kiss and the high-school prom,” says Heather Fadali, Neutrogena’s senior brand manager. “More and more we are seeing that adult women also have acne at the same time they are dealing with anti-aging skin challenges.” In response Neutrogena created the innovative Light Therapy Acne mask, which uses red and blue light to simultaneously kill bacteria and reduce inflammation. Red light, a favourite rejuvenating tool for derms, stimulates collagen and elastin production by increasing blood circulation. Other skincare leaders have developed lines for acneic aging skin, such as Skinceu-

This beta-hydroxy acid sloughs off dead skin cells, unclogs pores and keeps them open without the aggravation of a physical scrub.

SALICYLIC ACID “It’s a liquid plumber for pores,” says Alessandra Gatti, Neostrata educational development manager. “It’s lipophilic (attracted to oil) so it goes into the skin cell and pushes out what shouldn’t be there — the bacteria.” Unlike another popular zit-buster, benzoyl peroxide, it doesn’t dry out skin.

RETINOL A superhero when it comes to acne and aging: “Retinol is an excellent anti-ager, it unblocks pores, shuts down inflammation and increases collagen production, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Julia Carroll, director of Compass Dermatology. 31


I N N O V AT I O N

MYTH BUSTER

ticals bestselling Blemish + Age Defense serum, which treats zits and blemishes associated with aging such as hyperpigmentation, photodamage and fine lines, by speeding up cellular turnover. Meanwhile, acne-targeting line Kerancyl from Ducray Laboratoires Dermatologique, available nationwide at Shoppers Drug Mart, recently launched its first anti-aging serum. Social media has contributed to the conversation. “It’s made adult acne less taboo,” says Smith. “More women are willing to openly talk about it and seek help.” Kendall Jenner’s Golden Globes appearance this year caused even more of a stir than usual because she dared to bare her breakout.“Never let that sh*t stop you!” wrote Jenner. Easy to say when you’re a 22-year-old supermodel who probably believes you’re going to grow

You can use toothpaste as zit cream — false!  The mix of chemicals (baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, triclosan, etc.) dry and irritate skin. In a pinch, crush an aspirin, add a drop of water and leave overnight. The aspirin will soothe skin and bring the inflammation down.

out of it. Whether you’re in the Jenner-Kardashian club or can relate more to fellow zit sufferers like Katy Perry and Lady Gaga, the good news is, the future looks brighter. Literally. For anyone who’s boomeranged back to their teen years of coverup and zit cream, skincare products have evolved to smooth out our crows feet and furrowed brows while sorting out bumpy chins, too.

The arsenal 1.

1. Mini Peel

2.

With 2% dioic acid and a blend of alphaand beta-hydroxy acids, this serum reduces acne while improving hyper-pigmentation. SKINCEUTICALS

Blemish + Age Defense, $90, at Skinceuticals.ca.

3.

2. Pro Protection When sloughing off dead cells, sunscreen like oil-free superlight lotion is a must. LA ROCHE-POSAY

4. 32

Anthelios XL ultra-light lotion for sensitive skin SPF 60, $30, at drugstores.

3. Clear Cleansing

A combo of 2% salicylic acid and 10% glycolic acid unclogs pores and kills bacteria. NEOSTRATA Acne Clear

Clarifying Gel Cleanser, $25, and Clarifying Solution, $30, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

4. Wonder Wand

Following the Light Therapy mask, using blue light to kill bacteria and red to reduce inflammation, comes a handy wand version. NEUTROGENA Light

Therapy Acne Spot Treatment, $35, at drugstores.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018


Introducing

MAY 17, 2018

CARLU, TORONTO

THIS YEAR WE ARE LAUNCHING THE CANADIAN BEAUTY AWARDS F E AT U R I N G A D D I T I O N A L C AT E G O R I E S W I T H A F O C U S O N P R O D U C T I N N O VAT I O N .

Categories will be expanded to include nail care, hair care, sun care and men’s products, with a focus on new launches in the fragrance categories, and all other categories will take product innovation into account. To see a list of this year’s finalists please visit our website at Cosmeticsmag.com

Thursday, May 17, 2018

Carlu, Toronto

VENDOR SPONSORS

MEDIA SPONSORS

R E TA I L S P O N S O R S

cosmetics INDUSTRY SPONSORS

E N T E R TA I N M E N T S P O N S O R

RECEPTION SPONSOR


GALLERY

#BeautyTroop

We hit the store floor to get the at-counter scoop

Jay Funa

Cast member, Sephora, Bloor St. W., Toronto HIS STORY

“I transferred to this location three months ago. I was in Vancouver before. It’s very different here — you have time to breathe. Mall stores are constantly go-go-go.”

WHAT HE LOVES ABOUT THE JOB

“I get to talk about makeup and help women feel beautiful.”

Cosmetics manager, Hudson’s Bay, Queen Street, Toronto

His Look:

“I was looking at a picture of Frank Ocean and he had his hair really short and like a pastel colour. So I thought, ‘You know what, let’s do it.’ It’s growing out so it’s kind of silver now.”

Nas Zeruk Beauty advisor, Shoppers Drug Mart, Bloor St. W., Toronto HER STORY “I’ve

been at this location for four years.” WHAT SHE LOVES ABOUT THE JOB

Photos: Stephanie Hicks

Kerrigan Hoo-Fong

“Sometimes it’s magic what you can do. It’s so transforming. And everybody is different, every day is different. We have to do our tasks, but when I’m one-on-one with SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

the customers, I love it. You never know what look they’re going to want.”

Her Look: “For mascara I only use Marcelle because I have really sensitive eyes. I use Cover FX for makeup because it’s all vegan and mineral-based. I try not to put anything fragranced on my face.”

HER STORY

“I’ve been working in beauty for about five years but it’s only been my sole business since last year, when I joined the Bay.” WHAT SHE LOVES ABOUT THE JOB

“I love my associates — my team is the most amazing. Roaming this floor and seeing their passion and how they are with their customers is just great. That’s the best thing, I think.”

Her Look: “My lipstick is Chanel.”

35


mugler.ca


S A L U T, B E A U T É

1.

2.

3.

4.

INTRODUISANT

Vânia Aguiar

Notre rédactrice beauté partage les tendances de la nouvelle saison

Photos: Défilé Laura Biagiotti

<< Il est aussi important de soigner sa peau en choisissant des textures, des matières et des odeurs qui nous plaisent. >>

5.

Gestes et Soins Nouveaux L’industrie de la beauté est en perpétuelle évolution. Dans ses laboratoires, les scientifiques n’ont de cesse de faire évoluer les formules et d’innover année après année, avec un seul objectif : combler le désir des femmes d’être belles, peu importe leur âge ! C’est à coup de brevets déposés et de lancements de plus en plus innovants que les grands noms de la cosmétique se livrent une guerre

SPRING 2018 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

continue afin de se démarquer et, pour notre plus grand bonheur, de créer des soins super performants formulés avec les dernières innovations. Voici les derniers arrivés. À vos marques, mesdames ! On applique ! 1. DE BIOTHERM

Cure Blue Therapy Red Algae Uplift, 62 $ les 30 ml, disponible chez Jean-Coutu

2. D’EAU THERMALE AVÈNE Sérum lissant

en pharmacie

3. DE FILORGA

NCTF- Reverse crème régénérante suprême, 120 $ les 50 ml, disponible chez Pharmaprix 4. DE CLARINS

Crème régénérante Extra-Firming nuit, 93 $ les 50 ml, disponible dans les comptoirs Clarins 5. DE ELIZABETH ARDEN Superstart

nettoyant moussant probiotique à l’argile, 43 $ les 125 ml, disponible chez Pharmaprix

repulpant Physiolift, 37 $ les 30 ml, disponible 37


POLLUTION: INVISIBLE MAIS NÉFASTE.

Complexe GUARD Action globale

Les sources de pollution sont variées : les fines particules provenant des fumées industrielles, de cigarettes, de feux de foyer, de véhicules (smog) qui suite à leur exposition aux rayons UV deviennent encore plus nocives. Sans oublier la surexposition aux radiations : rayons UV, infrarouges et la lumière bleue émise par les appareils électroniques.

Extrait de kakadu plum (contient 100 fois plus de vitamine C qu’une orange)

COMPLEXE INNOVATEUR SURDOUÉ ■

Tous les jours, à l’extérieur comme à l’intérieur, notre peau est exposée à la pollution environnementale. La plupart du temps elle est invisible à nos yeux mais la pollution affecte la santé en général et celle de notre peau.

MD

Nettoie et détoxifie la peau. Protège la peau contre les effets néfastes des stress environnementaux et de la pollution. Empêche l’adhésion des polluants atmosphériques. Aide à renforcer les défenses naturelles de la peau. Aide à réparer les dommages causés par la pollution.

Polysaccharides

Extrait de marrubé blanc

VOS ALLIÉS Marcelle offre une solution globale qui cible tous les facteurs de stress environnementaux incluant la pollution. En 2 étapes simples, votre peau est nettoyée, protégée et radieuse.

NETTOYER + DÉTOXIFIER MOUSSE MICELLAIRE NETTOYANTE ANTI-POLLUTION ■ Nettoie

Les effets sur la peau sont multiples et progressifs dans le temps. La pollution fragilise la barrière protectrice naturelle de la peau et contribue à son vieillissement prématuré. ■

Désydratation de la peau.

Apparition prématurée de signes de vieillissement cutanés : rides, ridules, taches pigmentaires (taches brunes) et perte de fermeté.

Augmentation de la sensibilité de la peau.

La peau perd de sa luminosité.

Apparition de rougeurs et texture rugueuse.

Augmentation, dans certains cas, de l’acné et de l’apparition de points noirs.

en douceur et élimine toutes traces d’impuretés, de maquillage et de polluants. ■ Laisse un film protecteur anti-adhésion qui empêche les particules polluantes d’adhérer à la surface de la peau. Résultats : Une peau nette, fraîche, non asséchée et protégée contre les effets nocifs des facteurs environnementaux. HYPOALLERGÉNIQUE | SANS PARFUM | SANS PARABÈNE TESTÉ SOUS CONTRÔLE DERMATOLOGIQUE

RENFORCER + RÉPARER + PROTÉGER ÉMULSION HYDRATANTE JOUR ET NUIT ANTI-POLLUTION 24H SOIN JOUR HAUTE PROTECTION URBAINE 24H FPS30 – large spectre ■ Aide

à réparer les effects nocifs des polluants sur la peau. ■ Hydrate immédiatement et durablement (24 heures). ■ Ravive la luminosité du teint en améliorant visiblement l’apparence de la peau. ■ Aide à réduire l’apparence des points noirs et resserre les pores. Résultats : Protégée et renforcée la peau retrouve ses défenses naturelles pour un teint intensément radieux et resplendissant de fraîcheur. Tous types de peaux

marcelle.com

HYPOALLERGÉNIQUE | SANS PARFUM | SANS PARABÈNE SANS HUILE | TESTÉE SOUS CONTRÔLE DERMATOLOGIQUE SUR PEAUX SENSIBLES | NON COMÉDOGÈNE


S A L U T, B E A U T É

Comment lutter contre les disgracieuses taches brunes ?

Parce qu’elles sont l’une de nos plus grandes préoccupations après les rides et le relâchement cutané et parce qu’on se rend compte qu’il faut agir et tenter de les effacer efficacement; comprendre l’origine des taches pigmentaires permet de mieux les traiter. Les taches brunes sur notre peau résultent de plusieurs causes : l’exposition au soleil (lentigo solaire), certains produits œstrogéniques (contraceptifs, traitement de la ménopause), certains médicaments, une grossesse ou tout simplement le vieillissement cutané. Heureusement, il existe des produits de beauté dont les actifs ont la propriété d’estomper ou même d’enrayer ces taches indésirées. Leur choix est vaste et nous évite d’opter pour des traitements plus extrêmes comme le peeling chimique, le laser ou la cryothérapie. Une routine cosmétique adaptée est moins agressive et coûteuse et elle permet même de ralentir le processus de formation. Les crèmes éclaircissantes vendues sans ordonnance à cet effet contiennent généralement des dérivés des vitamines A et C, des alpha-hydroxyacides (AHA) et d’autres ingrédients d'origine naturelle. Leurs effets sont légers et progressifs et les résultats observables à long terme. Comment ça marche ? Les formules des crèmes

éclaircissantes sont conçues de manière à inhiber la formation de la tyrosine, un précurseur de mélanine. Elles favorisent également l’exfoliation des cellules mortes à la surface de la peau. Appliquées de façon continue dès l'apparition des premières taches brunes, matin et soir ou une fois par jour, elles les atténuent réellement. Le secret pour garder un épiderme sain et uniforme passe indéniablement par une bonne protection solaire et une bonne routine quotidienne de soins de la peau. Mais, une fois que les taches brunes commencent à s’installer, un petit tour au rayon des cosmétiques s’avère essentiel. Car se procurer les meilleurs outils pour lutter contre se disgracieux fléau c’est s’assurer de préserver plus longtemps son capital beauté ! DE LA PEAU Gel-Crème de

jour, 88 $ les 50 ml, disponible au www.lapeauskincare.com. DE GUERLAIN Essence in Lotion Anti-Taches Blanc de Perle, 160 $ les 30 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Guerlain. DE CHANEL Masque Créateur de Lumière Le Blanc, 115 $ les 50 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Chanel. DE LA ROCHE-POSAY Sérum anti-taches correcteur intensif Pigmentclar, 59 $ les 30 ml, disponible en pharmacie. DE VIVIER Sérum Radiance soin antivieillissement et éclaircissant, 134,50 $ les 30 ml, disponible au www. vivierskin.com.

39


S A L U T, B E A U T É

1. 2.

3.

BEAUTÉ P R I N TA N I È R E

4.

Pour le printemps 2018, les maisons de beauté ont imaginé des collections de maquillage aux accents chaleureux, riches et inattendus ou frais et juvéniles, mais surtout elles ont misé sur les jolis teints comme ceux vus dans les défilés. Le mot d’ordre de la saison : Lumière et éclat ! C’est un bonheur de partager avec vous mes coups de cœur. À adopter sans tarder ! 1. DE CHANEL Fards à joues, Joues

5.

7.

6. 40

Contraste nuance foschia rosa, 53 $, disponible aux comptoirs Chanel. 2. DE VKOSMETIK Brillant à lèvres nuance krisis, 17,50 $, disponible chez Jean Coutu. 3. DE ANNABELLE Perfect Corrector, 7,95 $, disponible en pharmacie. 4. D’YVES SAINT LAURENT Touche Éclat Blur Primer, 50 $ disponible au www.yslbeauty.ca. 5. DE LISE WATIER Traceur yeux Smokey Kohl Velours Urban Velocity, nuance rose velours, 23 $, disponible aux comptoirs Lise Watier. 6. DE GIORGIO ARMANI Illuminateur de teint Palette Chinese New Year, 118 $, disponible au www. armani-beauty.ca. 7. DE GIVENCHY Palette Couture Atelier, 82 $ en exclusivité au www.sephora.ca.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018


La fermeté de votre peau, le ressort de sa jeunesse. Extrait de fleur kangourou d’Australie au pouvoir régénérant intense.

Nouveau Extra-Firming Jour et Nuit Raffermit, lifte, réduit les rides. À 40 ans, donnez du ressort à votre peau. Innovation des Laboratoires Clarins, les nouveaux soins Extra-Firming réactivent la fermeté à sa source grâce à l’extrait de fleur kangourou. Votre peau trouve en elle-même le ressort de sa jeunesse ! Extra-Firming : plus de 8 extraits de plantes pour rendre votre peau • plus lisse • plus ferme • plus radieuse

89%

DES FEMMES TROUVENT LEUR PEAU PLUS FERME. *

*Test de satisfaction – Crèmes Jour et Nuit, toutes peaux – 107 femmes – 14 jours

Le plus Clarins La fermeté de la peau est depuis toujours au coeur de la Recherche Clarins. De notre démarche d’innovation permanente est née une nouvelle formule optimisée : Extra-Firming.

Votre boutique en ligne : www.clarins.com

Vous, avant tout.


S A L U T, B E A U T É

Q&R Maxime Poulin – Artiste Beauté International de Guerlain Q: Y a-t-il des visages qui se prêtent mieux que d’autres à la beauté selon Guerlain ?

Eau Monsieur! Quoi de plus attirant qu’un homme qui sent divinement bon. Choisir son effluve peut s’avérer compliqué, mais dites-vous qu’une simple session d’essai peut vous faire découvrir une fragrance qui se mariera parfaitement non seulement à votre épiderme mais aussi votre personnalité. Et vous pourriez dorénavant laisser une empreinte sublime dans la mémoire de vos admiratrices secrètes comme avouées ! DE CHANEL Eau de

Toilette Allure Sport Cologne vaporisateur de voyage rechargeable 20 ml x 3, 96 $ les 60 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Chanel. DE YVES SAINT LAURENT Eau de

Toilette L’Homme Cologne Bleue, 120 $ les 100 ml, disponible au www.yslbeauty.ca.

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DE JOHN VARVATOS

Eau de Toilette John Varvatos Artisan Pure, 110 $ les 125ml, disponible chez Pharmaprix. DE GIORGIO ARMANI

Eau de Parfum Acqua Di Gio Absolu 149 $ les 125 $, disponible au www.armani-beauty.ca. DE RALPH LAUREN

Eau de Toilette Polo Ultra Blue, 110 $ les 125 ml, disponible chez Pharmaprix.

R: Non. La beauté, ce n’est pas une seule forme de visage, un seul look, une unique couleur de rouge à lèvres. Il n’y a pas de mauvais visage, toutes les femmes sont sublimées par un bon maquillage. La beauté, selon Guerlain, c’est intuitif, instinctif : cela tient du même instinct que celui d’une jeune fille qui applique le rouge à lèvres de sa maman en cachette. Une femme heureuse et épanouie est toujours belle, peu importe ses traits. Selon Guerlain, le plus beau maquillage n’est pas celui qui transforme la femme, mais plutôt celui qui révèle les subtilités de sa beauté. Guerlain n’est pas une marque de mode, c’est une marque de beauté. Depuis 1828 qu’elle existe, elle n’a jamais imposé un style, une signature, mais a plutôt donné aux femmes la possibilité d’être d’éternelles jeunes filles, de jouer de leurs atouts, de s’amuser en y allant à l’intuition. Le produit symbolisant le mieux cet instinct est le rouge à lèvres, que Guerlain a inventé en 1870, révolutionnant ainsi le charme féminin ! Une magie qui opère toujours ! DE GUERLAIN rouge à lèvres KissKiss

Matte, nuance M330 Spicy Burgandy, 44 $, disponibles aux comptoirs Guerlain. COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018


USE YOUR SKILLS TO DO SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL FOR WOMEN WITH CANCER

VOLUNTEER

If you have a passion for beauty, become a volunteer and start helping women and teens with cancer feel like themselves again. Find out more at lgfb.ca. @LGFBCanada LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER® | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001


T W O TA K E S

COSA

Conversations

TAKE #1

“Be daring!” ROMAINE BOND, BEAUTY ADVISOR, CLINIQUE, HUDSON’S BAY, VERNON, B.C.

Winner of the 2017 Lifetime Achievement Award in a Department or Specialty Store

WHO REALLY NEEDS a hairbrush that

HOW DO YOU CREATE INNOVATION ON COUNTER?

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talks to you and tells you if your hair is damaged? What about a smart deodorant that knows when you need to reapply? (Really!) Or a beautiful cork bracelet that tells you if you are stressed? (As if we didn’t know already). My point is: These products are in the marketplace and selling, so someone wants them. But how did the customers find them? As Beauty Experts, our mission is to ensure our customers know about the amazing new products out there. The essence of our in-store experience is our ability to share our knowledge with our customers. To open their eyes to exciting possibilities and new favourites. Challenge yourself and pick a new product or ingredient that your customers may not have heard about and tell everyone about it. “Did you know our mascara contains mamey seed oil? It is a natural, holistic and nutrient-rich oil that helps your lashes grow stronger and longer.” How many times a day are you faced with questions like: “Why did they discontinue this product?” followed by, “It was my favourite!” Those words set a bell ringing in my head. Round One: Ding! “Are you up for some fun? I know we can find you a new favourite that you will love even more! Grab a seat.” Change is difficult, so offer your customers a week’s sample of the new product with their purchase. COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018


Here are some other staples I rely on: • Be daring — try a blindfold test with some new versus old products. • Pull inspiration for an event using a great advertisement. I held an event for Clinique Moisture Surge with an aloe vera plant (pictured in the ad), which customers could win, alongside a water station. A simple way to introduce a new product and spend time with your customers. • Call a co-worker (or any of the COSA winners) for ideas. • Never be afraid to try — I have enjoyed some amazing events, but had epic failures too! At a softball tournament one summer, all my lipstick samples melted in the 35°C heat. What did I learn? Cosmetics are not meant to be exposed to our extreme Canadian temperatures and to research the target market — this was a party atmosphere not a shopping environment. Find a way to get those customers to visit the store instead by partnering with the organizers. •G  et excited, get animated and have fun. We all like something new and are proud to share it with our friends when we discover something great. Our customers are our friends! • Use this issue of Cosmetics Magazine to inspire you every day and spread the word!

TAKE #2

“To fall in love with innovation, you have to touch it.” KATHLEEN TOOLE, BEAUTY ADVISOR, SHOPPERS DRUG MART, HALIFAX, N.S.

Winner of the 2017 Lifetime Achievement Award in a Drugstore INNOVATION is

the most important part of the cosmetics industry! We all love it and live for it. Newness is what keeps all of us cosmetics junkies coming back to the counters every day. Innovation is all around us and there are endless choices to learn about it online, but that does not put it on the

back of your hand or give any other personal touch or instruction. To fall in love with the innovation, you have to touch it, tap it, smell it, wear it. That is where the importance of the counter comes into play. I love helping my clients fall in love with the latest and greatest new products.

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cosmetics It’s the Canadian beauty industry’s biggest celebration of the year!

THE 17TH ANNUAL GALA

COSA

AWARDS 2018

2018 Awards Gala

THE COSMETICS OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS

Thursday, Nov. 15, 2018. Ritz Carlton hotel, Toronto, Ont. For event details, visit cosmeticsmag.com /cosas

Every year, Cosmetics honours the best customer service in Canadian beauty retail. If you know an exceptional cosmetician, beauty advisor, fragrance advisor, skincare therapist, demonstrator, trainer, vendor sales rep, drugstore team or department store team, visit cosmeticsmag.com/cosas to submit your nomination. Deadlines for nominations is June 15, 2018.

BECOME A 2018 SPONSOR To inquire about event sponsorship opportunities, please contact Jim Hicks at jhicks@cosmeticsalliance.ca

2018 COSA SPONSORS

TM|MC

PRINT SPONSOR

ENTERTAINMENT SPONSOR

SIMULCAST SPONSOR

RECEPTION SPONSOR

COSA PIN SPONSOR


AWARD CATEGORIES:

1 2 3

BEST SERVICE BY A DRUGSTORE TEAM

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE

11 12

ROOKIE OF THE YEAR BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

6

ROOKIE OF THE YEAR BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

7 8

BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Peer nominated

BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Peer nominated

9

BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Vendor nominated

BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Vendor nominated

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE

13

Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

5

BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE Retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE TEAM

Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

4

10

BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE Retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A DERMO-COSMETIC EXPERT IN A DRUGSTORE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

14 15 16 17 18 19

BEST SERVICE BY A PART-TIME ASSOCIATE Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A FRAGRANCE ADVISOR Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A SKINCARE THERAPIST Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A DEMONSTRATOR Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A TRAINER Peer, vendor or retailer nominated

BEST SERVICE BY A VENDOR SALES REPRESENTATIVE Cosmetician, beauty advisor or fragrance advisor nominated

For category details and nomination instructions, visit cosmeticsmag.com/cosas Entry deadline: Friday June 15, 2018


INGREDIENT 101

HUNTING FOR TRUFFLES

Underground Skin Savers

They’re not just the diamonds of fine dining; truffles are entering the beauty industry. But do they live up to the hype?

This shampoo moisturizes your locks with white truffle oil, delivering shine and softness without weight. PHILIP B

By Lora Grady

ous as a pile of earthy truffle shavings atop a bowl of pasta — except maybe a mask that contains the rare ingredient. Beauty companies are seizing the opportunity to make them a part of your daily routine. The claim? Truffles, a type of edible fungus that grows underground near roots of certain trees, contain antioxidants and fatty acids that increase skin’s moisture levels and even out tone. The most sought-after varieties are white (Tuber magnatum Pico) and black truffles (Tuber melanosporum Vittad). Because they’re so rare, and also highly perishable, they’re known for their price tag — large ones have sold for upwards of $400,000. While truffles have been on the menu for millennia (ancient Egyptians ate them with goose fat, while the Greeks and Romans believed they were an aphrodisiac), they’ve only recently made their way into the beauty world. Estée Lauder was among the first to feature truffles — specifically the rare black diamond truffle — as a key ingredient in skincare in 2016, for its 48

anti-aging effects. The truffles are transformed into a pure extract in a process that takes 10,000 hours, says Shawn Hlowatzki, Estée Lauder beauty expert. Philip Berkovitz, hair stylist and founder of the Philip B. product line, uses white truffle in a conditioning shampoo. “They contain conditioning fatty acids and SOD [the superoxide dismutase enzyme], which is packed with antioxidants and leads to smoother hair and skin over time,” he says. It may be too early to establish any concrete claims that the fungus may protect against free radicals, according to Toronto-based naturopath Dr. Ashley James. While she acknowledges truffles are indeed a source of SOD, she says, “There is no evidence to suggest that applying truffle to the skin will result in an antioxidant effect.” Still, it’s too appetizing an ingredient to pass up and beauty brands are getting on board, which means there’s hope for further research. Stay tuned to K Beauty brands like Neogen and U.S.-based Temple Spa for new releases containing the glamorous fungi.

With white truffle, this moisture stick for eyes and face hydrates and protects from environmental damage. NEOGEN DERMALOGY

White Truffle Laycure Oil Stick, $22, Amazon.ca.

The treatment contains Black Diamond Truffle extract for more evenly toned skin. ESTÉE LAUDER

Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpting/Refinishing Dual Infusion, $420, at Hudson’s Bay.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2018

Photo: Shutterstock (trufle).

FEW THINGS IN LIFE are as luxuri-

White Truffle Ultra-Rich Moisturizing Shampoo, $79, at Nordstrom.


#BEAUTYGRAM

The look: Golden Girl Date: Nov. 13, 2017 What we said: An out-there gold pout looks somehow down to earth with a blond shag and vintage Club Monaco tee. What she said: “Like my new look? ...played test subject on set with @sabrinarinaldimakeup for @ellecanada.”

MAGIC MANICURIST Toronto-based nail artist Rita Remark has painted the nails of Kate Moss and Serena Williams, but her Instagram shows she’s great in front of the camera, too. We steal four fave looks By Stephanie Hick s

The look: Working It Date: Feb. 16, 2018 What we said: She’s perfectly manicured business behind the scenes in this 80sinspired suit and a bold red lip. What she said: “Backstage at @alexanderwangny with my nudes ;)... photo: @ssam_kim”

RITA REMARK

Photos: Instagram

@ritaremark Manicurist. Spokesperson. Global Educator for @essiepolish and Lead Nail Artist for Essie Canada Followers: Over 9K

The look: Backseat Beauty Date: July 11, 2017 What we said: This subtle pink lip, nude mani and precise eyeliner = perfect fresh summer look. What she said: “I really really like my @hayleyelsaesser scarf (slash drink order?) • also traffic is bad and the lighting is good, so... ”

The look: Thelma & Louise Date: Sept. 14, 2017 What we said: Nude manis are all the makeup you need with big shades, silk

scarves and a convertible. What she said: “Two sisters, one yellow convertible: zero chill. #tbt #rideordie #roadtrip ”

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cosmetics T H E R E A R E S O M A N Y W AY S T O K E E P U P W I T H T H E L AT E S T N E W P R O D U C T LAUNCHES AND BEAUTY BUZZ... Sign up for our bi-weekly newsletter

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for behindthe-scenes action

COMING SOON

The Canadian Beauty Awards issue, packed with the best the industry has to offer, will be out June 6!

C O SMETIC SMA G. C OM

Spring 2018 Innovation Issue  

Dive into the Innovation issue to uncover your new favourite products. Each page is packed with the best new technologies bursting onto the...

Spring 2018 Innovation Issue  

Dive into the Innovation issue to uncover your new favourite products. Each page is packed with the best new technologies bursting onto the...