Cosmetics Magazine, The Skincare Issue, Spring 2021

cosmetics

THE SKINCARE ISSUE The innovation + the products + the looks

SPRING 2021

BEAUTY BUZZ 10 Pastel Play

A head-to-toe cotton candy palette offers the perfect antidote to a long winter

NEW IN STORES 14 Must-Have Makeup 16 Superstar Skincare 18 Hair Care Heroes

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INSPO 20 Blotted Out

Look no further than a stained lip to freshen up your look for spring

23 Hot Tips

Our mitts are getting a serious DIY upgrade with these innovative press-on nail designs

F E AT U R E 25 The Ultimate Guide To Your

Skin's Microbiome

Expert tips on striking the right balance between good and bad bacteria ADVISOR TOOLS 31 Salut, Beauté

In French, Vânia Aguiar gives the scoop on what’s hot in Quebec—and beyond!

Director, Beauty Publications & Awards James R. Hicks Creative Director Heather Marrin Sales & Production Director Stephanie Hicks Trends Editor & Features Editor Lora Grady Beauty Editor Mishal Cazmi French Beauty Editor Vânia Aguiar Editorial inquiries: shicks@cosmeticsmag.com Advertising & event inquiries: jhicks@cosmeticsalliance.ca

Vol. 51, No. 1 — Spring 2021

Cosmetics Alliance President and CEO Darren Praznik Director, Finance & Administration Michele Follows 41 A Close Look: Squalene

An interview with the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation on the oil derived from shark liver

43 Saftey 101

A guide to maintaining safe practices critical to reducing the spread of Covid-19

IN EVERY ISSUE 5

Publisher’s notes

7

Editor's letter

47

# ProWeLove

Top tips and our fave at-home mani inspo from nail tech & artist Naomi Misu

45 Ingredient 101

How to reap the benefits of the naturally occurring antioxidant astaxanthin

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Manager, Digital Media & Communications Amy Sutherland Director, Media & Communications Susan Nieuwhof Manager, Membership & Administration Michele Davis Manager, Beauty Specialist Certification Program Diane Kozak Cosmetics Alliance Canada, Suite 102, 420 Britannia Rd E, Mississauga, ON L4Z 3L5

3

IN YOUR OPINION, HOW SIMPLE OR HOW DELUXE DO YOU THINK YOUR CUSTOMERS SKINCARE REGIMES SHOULD BE TO GET THE BEST RESULTS?

B

C

osmeceutical Experts are among the best in their field.

Nominated by their Peers, Vendor or Retailer, they represent the highest standard in skincare consultation. NEOSTRATA∏, an expert in dermocosmetics, congratulates each winner for their outstanding customer service all year long.

efore I make any suggestions, I like to engage in a casual conversation and learn a bit about them, as I think it is really important to get an idea about their lifestyle. Simple information like: Do they spend a lot of time outdoors? Do they have children? Are they working from home? And, also, what is their skin care routine presently? By asking at least 3-5 good questions, I know I will really be able to help my customers to customize a great beauty regime. I also always tell my customers that I am only a phone call away, as they begin using their products.

A cleanser is a must for having all of your other products perform to their full capacity. I commonly introduce them to NEOSTRATA ® “PHA CLEANSER” from their RESTORE Collection, as it has 4% Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) to gently exfoliate and bring softness and hydration back to skin. As this cleanser is so gentle it is suitable for everyone and especially those skins that have been so stressed and fragile from both weather and lifestyle. It is also the perfect pH to set the skin up for active ingredients to follow.

CONGRATULATIONS ROSE BELLISARIO NEOSTRATA® Cosmeceutical Expert, Shoppers Drug Mart, Toronto, ON

AS WE ARE ALL STILL WEARING MASKS AND MOSTLY WORKING IN A “WORK FROM HOME” ENVIRONMENT, ARE CUSTOMERS SKIN CARE NEEDS ON THE RISE?

S

kin concerns are most definatley on the rise.

My customers have been far more open about their skin issues than they ever have, and are not happy about how their skin feels or looks.

I find that they are so relieved to be able to talk to us about their skin concerns. Though wearing a mask can be challenging on both sides of a consultation, it really does put our listening skills to good use. Of all of my team’s consultations, we all agree we have had more inquiries about the eye area: “I wake up with bags under my eyes”, “The skin under my eyes is rough and dry”, “My mask rubs against the skin under my eyes which creates roughness and lines”.

Working from home and with all the Zoom meetings, people are very conscious about their eyes, as they feel that is what is highlighted mostly on the screen. I’m very excited to be able to talk to them soon about NEOSTRATA ∏ new “HYDRA FILLING EYE GEL-CREAM” coming in April, as I really feel it will solve so many of their concerns.

As Hyaluronic Acid, acts as a moisture sponge, it will quench the dryness that they are experiencing and the PHA’s will smooth the eye contour and

“THE NEW Hydra Filling Eye Gel-Cream is simply delicious.”

- Rose Bellisario

bring back that suppleness we are missing. If winter is a “thief ” to hydration, I like to think of HAs and PHAs as the ingredients that police the skin protecting its most valuable players like moisture and smoothness.

NEW Hydra Filling Eye Gel-Cream This quenching gel-cream formulated with Hyaluronic Acid and Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) delivers plumping moisture to the eye contour area to visibly refill and smooth fine lines. Skin appears intensely hydrated and visibly firmer.

Fragrance-free & Ophthalmologist tested

For the stress of the times, I will commonly suggest we will follow up with the “HYDRA FILLING CREAM” from NEOSTRATA ∏ CORRECT Collection, as a daily moisturizer. This moisturizer will allow the skin to feel more plumped, hydrated and diminish fine lines and wrinkles as it is rich in LMW Hyaluronic Acid (HA) 0.5% that can really help quench a thirsty skin.

It also has peptides to help with those pesky wrinkles we are not fans about!

We are really excited to have “HYDRA FILLING EYE GEL-CREAM” launching in April, to match.

It’s a perfectly blended gel/cream that helps you feel immediate comfort and it makes the eye area visibly refilled and fine lines smoothed. With the perfect blend of ingredients, the tag team of Hyaluronic Acid which will hydrate the eye area, and 4% PHAs, which will gently exfoliate, making the skin around the eyes to look more supple and lines visibly smoother. Vitamins A, C and E antioxidants protect against damaging environmental aggressors. And what can I say about the feel?... It’s “simply delicious” is the only way I can describe it!

“EACH DAY we strive to COMMIT to FIND OUR WAY FORWARD. Our continued thanks to you and your teams for your perseverance to providing your customers with a comforting and safe shopping experience. Change is never easy, but it is necessary. Just remember, each time it pinches a bit… we need to “let go, to let grow!” We are proud of you and look forward to growing alongside of you, while discovering our exciting, new tomorrows!”

— Patricia Clare, NEOSTRATA National Training Manager

UP FRONT

PUBLISHER’S NOTE AND NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT... As I write this note in late January,

Photo: David Hawes

we remain in lockdown, both Ontario and Quebec, for the second time since this pandemic started one year ago. Most retailers remain closed along with restaurants, movie theatres and schools.

We have been through a lot over these 12 months, and now we are learning that vaccines won’t be getting to us as fast as we had hoped, but I do see a light at the end of this rather long tunnel—albeit a dim light at this point—but a light, nevertheless.

As all these restrictions have lasted for nearly a year and things have changed in our industry, our customers have changed dramatically, and they may never come back to their old ways. We have seen tremendous growth in online shopping, improved shipping and return policies, and customer service has become more focused—expectations are measured with each transaction.

This pandemic has given tech companies the time to further hone their offerings. It has also sped up their abilities to offer more sooner. We thought AI, VR and virtual stores were years away, but the process each of these game changers have made this past year is eye opening.

Dominated by Amazon, Google, Microsoft, Elon Musk and a few other primary players, these companies are changing the way we do things now rather than 10 years from now. Did you know flying cars exist today? And mass drone delivery is just around the corner. In as little as three to four years you will be able to shop for clothing virtually, where garmets will be 3-D printed on the spot, giving you the opportunity to shop 100’s of designers – right at your fingertips (all while talking into your watch!)

Much will change, that’s for sure, and the pandemic has only helped accelerate this technological world we are living in. It has forced many of our retailers to rethink how they will engage with their customers. I am not suggesting brick and mortar stores will not continue, but once we come out the other side of this, they each need to be prepared for something totally different. Embrace all this innovation coming your way and have fun!

Hoping retail opens back up again soon. Have a great spring selling season.

Jim Hicks, DIRECTOR, BEAUTY PUBLICATIONS AND AWARDS @JIMHICKSTWEETS

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

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I N N O V AT I O N

30

SECONDS

UP FRONT

EDITOR’S LET TER WHENEVER I THINK about

spring, I can’t help but think of reinvention. The tulips always rise again, vibrant and strong, after all the dark, frigid storms. They remind me that we’re also capable of blooming again after the tough (and possibly longest ever?) winter.

Flowers also act as a symbol of Mother Nature and her brilliance—we only have one Earth and it is such a beauty. So, it’s completely appropriate that this issue is all about innovation and care—inside and out.

This spring, aside from looking forward to some much-needed sunshine, I’m excited to try something new (like one of the mascaras on page 13). I’ve already ordered multiple pairs of press-on nails (page 23) and my collection of lip stains (page 20) is quickly growing.

I’m also pumped to revitalize my skincare routine after learning all about the skin’s fascinating microbiome and how to support it (page 25), as well as the brightening benefits of powerful antioxidant astaxanthin (page 45). My parched curls are also in for a nice spring refresh courtesy of the dynamic hair duos on page 18.

Whether you’re into spring cleaning your routine or just here for a fresh start, I hope this issue brings you all the joy and inspiration of a garden in bloom!

Lora Grady, TRENDS & FEATURES EDITOR @LORAGRADY @LORAKGRADY

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

7

The New Na tu ra l

The new beauty innovations from Burt’s Bees are easy to use, easy to tote and because they are true to nature, easy to feel good about NO MATTER THE OCCASION—coffee run, yoga sesh, picnic in the park—this spring, you’ll want Burt’s Bees’ latest beauty innovations on deck. Applied with your fingertips, they are fuss-free, designed to enhance your natural beauty and made from nature’s most nourishing ingredients. And because Burt’s Bees is committed to responsible sourcing, supporting the communities and environments where its ingredients originate, and recyclable packaging, you can feel good about looking your best. Through rain or shine, these multi-taskers are our favourite new must-have mainstays.

SHIMMER & SHINE Give lids a new look with a luxurious Cream Eye Shadow. It’s the perfect everyday texture—lightweight, easy to wear, blend and build. What’s more, it contains vitamin E and Berry Fruit Wax to nourish the delicate skin around the eyes. Available in three warm, shimmering neutrals (Caramel Buttercream, Rose Cream and Honey Caramel) the shadows are made with ingredients that are 99.7 percent natural origin and easily double as on-the-go highlighters.

LIP TREAT The hydrating Squeezy Tinted Lip Balm drenches lips with nourishing ingredients for a healthy-looking shine and just the right hint of colour. Made from ingredients of 100-percent natural origin, including responsibly sourced beeswax and moisturizing cocoa butter and coconut oil, it comes in four deliciously addictive flavours: Mandarin Granita, Sweet Peach, Watermelon Rush and Berry Sorbet.

It is natural lip care with the impact of a trending cosmetic.

DEWY CHEEKS For the perfect pop of colour that melts into the skin, meet this lightweight Cream Blush. It prolongs that sunny-afternoon flush well into the evening, 8

while coconut and jojoba moisturize and nourishing vitamin E and berry fruit wax work to enhance your skin, naturally (it’s made from ingredients of 99.7 percent natural origin, after all). Choose from three luxuriously smooth and easily blendable shades of Guava Meringue, Berry Whip and Strawberry Cream.

RADIANT FACE To boost any look—and the skin underneath—along comes the lightweight GOODNESS glows™ Face Primer Illuminating and Hydrating. An extra layer of hydration that adds illuminating radiance to the skin and staying power to a foundation or tinted moisturizer, it contains responsibly sourced moisturizing avocado oil from Kenya. Made with natural minerals and silicone-free, it’s perfect as temps rise because it won’t clog pores. Ingredients of 99 percent natural origin work to make skin look its best—naturally.

ALL-OVER GLOW The new makeup multitasking BFF, this Miracle Balm is a lightweight, non-greasy formula that gives the perfect dewy finish, as well as taming brows and flyaways. Easy to apply, it is instantly hydrating, moisturizing and softening. It’s made with natural plant-derived squalene from sustainably sourced Brazilian sugarcane that absorbs quickly wherever you need it—your face, lips, cuticles, elbows, even toes—while sunflower seed and coconut oil hydrate, and community-sourced beeswax locks all the goodness in.

BURT'S BEES brings you beauty that’s powered by the best of nature to bring out the best in you. Formulated without parabens, phthalates, petrolatum and SLS, it’s Leaping Bunny Certified and never animal tested. Get yours at drugstores and mass-market retailers and for more info visit www.burtsbees.ca

WE BELIEVE IN THE JOY OF DOING GOOD. AND YOU ARE DOING GOOD. YOU ARE MAKING A DIFFERENCE. ESPECIALLY NOW. WE ARE GRATEFUL FOR ALL YOU DO TO CONNECT WITH AND ADD JOY TO THE LIVES OF OTHERS.

thank you BEAUTY SPECIALISTS

BEAUTY BUZZ

PASTEL PLA Y

Clockwise from top right: Essie releases "in the time zone," a pretty pink with blue undertones; models rock head-to-toe shades of pastel at Versace's Resort SS/21 presentation; Lana Condor takes to the 'Gram with her freshly dyed locks; draped in Gucci for the Golden Globes, Elle Fanning strikes a pose; makeup artist Mary Philips shares a behind-the-scenes shot of Kim Kardashian for KKW Beauty; at Kenzo's SS/21, lilac comes in various textures and fabrics; a model dons a mint ensemble from Balmain's '90s pop-culture-inspired collection.

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@LANACONDOR

@BALMAIN @KENZO

LANA CONDOR IS JUST ONE of the many Hollywood starlets who opted to kick off 2021 with pretty pastel tresses— Demi Lovato, Cardi B and Kate Hudson were also among the list. The happy hues also found their way into SS/21 runways shows—most notably at the haute resort presentations—and the Golden Globes, and are now mainstays in our makeup bags.

Pretty pastels tailored into '90s-style silhouettes, reminiscent of Julia Roberts's wardrobe in Pretty Woman, dazzled at Balmain, and colour-blocking on dress shirts and playful pairings of socks and heels at Versace left us craving dessert.

Dressed up for a Golden Globes night in, Elle Fanning made a splash in an icyaqua Gucci gown, and Nicola Coughlan of the hit series Bridgerton donned a soft yellow by Molly Goddard, defined by an epic layering of tulle.

On our vanity: the latest offering of bubble-gum shades of nail polish currently sit next to soft lilac shadows to recreate looks inspired by makeup artists like Terry Baberon for Halpern's SS/21 lookbook and Mary Phillips for KKW Beauty. Next up, "Pass the pastel blue eyeshadow, please!" — Heather Marrin

@VERSACE

A head-to-toe cotton candy palette offers the perfect antidote to a long winter

@ELLEFANNING

@MARYPHILLIPS

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2021

***

NEW IN STORES MAKEUP | SKINCARE | HAIRCARE

Swipe Up

THE IDEAL MASCARA promises length, volume and a longwear formula that doesn’t smudge or budge. Luckily, there are a host of new mascaras making their debut this spring that offer just that. From Benefit Cosmetics’ wand with a magnetically charged core that pulls the mineral formula through the lashes, to Bite Beauty’s first-ever mascara, which uses tree berry wax to amp up your fringe, these one-of-a-kind mascaras were made to make your lashes pop from every angle. — Mishal Cazmi BENEFIT COSMETICS They’re Real! Extreme Lengthening Mascara, $36, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

BITE BEAUTY Upswing Full-Volume Mascara, $37, at Sephora.

SISLEY-PARIS So Stretch Mascara, $85, at Holt Renfrew.

MAYBELLINE New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara, $13, at mass-market retailers.

COVERGIRL Lash Blast Clean Volume Mascara Waterproof, $11, at mass-market retailers from April.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

13

Must-Have

MAKEUP Ace your base and freshen up your makeup routine with these spring favourites

By Mishal Cazmi

14

NEW IN STORES

1. Lip Service

Catrice’s latest lip gloss and balm hybrid stars a dream team of hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, shea butter, goji berry extract and green tea. It gives lips just the right amount of colour and shine while cushioning them in comfort. Available in eight shades.

CATRICE Powerfull 5 Liquid

Lip Balm, $8, at Shoppers Drug Mart, from April.

2. Finishing Touches

This multi-purpose powder dreamt up by Dior Make-up’s creative and image director Peter Philips does double duty as both a matte finishing powder and a bronzer.

It mattifies and blurs, evens the skin and gives it a soft, radiant glow.

DIOR Backstage Powder-

No-Powder, $50, at Sephora.

3. Ready, Set, Glow

Tatcha’s first-ever setting powder is inspired by oshiroi, the opaque makeup worn by geisha to protect their complexions. It combines

silk powder, Japanese pearl powder and the brand’s Hadasei-3 complex (made with double-fermented rice, green tea and algae) to give skin a soft filter effect and protect it against blue light.

per cent plant-based renewable sugarcane.

The sponge is part of the brand’s effort to reduce its carbon footprint. The foam is recyclable, and the canister is also made with recycled materials.

TATCHA The Silk Powder,

BEAUTYBLENDER Bio

$64, at Sephora.

4. Lights On

Touche Éclat’s recent makeover brings a formula upgrade with the addition of natural ingredients, most notably marigold and mallow extracts from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. For fans of the foundation, it still promises medium coverage with a glowy finish.

Pure Makeup Sponge, $20, at Sephora.

6. Springtime Bloom The new Black Cherry collection for spring is an instant mood boost with its sakura-inspired packaging. The matte lipstick in Dramarama —a bright pink coral— is a highlight, giving the perfect pop of colour to celebrate the arrival of the new season.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

MAC COSMETICS Matte

Touche Éclat Le Teint, $74, at yslbeauty.ca.

Lipstick in Dramarama, $25, at maccosmetics.ca.

5. Premium Blend

7. Colour Crush

This pink sponge was the first makeup applicator of its kind when it first launched. This year, BeautyBlender introduced an eco-friendly version made from 60

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

to choose from, including the brand’s cult favourite Orgasm, a universally flattering peachy golden pink hue.

NARS Air Matte Blush, $39,

at Hudson’s Bay.

8. Prime Time

Tapping into skincare ingredients like imperial peony to brighten, this primer feels like a serum but does the work of prepping the skin for makeup. The instant soft blurring effect also gives you the option of skipping makeup.

L’ORÉAL PARIS Blurring

Face Primer, $20, at drugstores and mass-market retailers from mid-April.

Perfect for putting together a low-key makeup look, this blush’s creamy mousse texture melts into the skin for a soft, diffused finish.

There are eight shades 15

Superstar

SKINCARE Your firming, smoothing and glow-boosting essentials for the season ahead

By Mishal Cazmi

16

NEW IN STORES

1. Blurred lines

This eye cream uses bakuchiol, lauded for its retinol-like prowess, and combines it with peptides, orchid stem cells, rice proteins and licorice root extract to help combat signs of aging like fine lines, puffiness and dark circles. The dual action formula ensures the formula stays potent by only mixing when you pump it out of the bottle.

OLE HENRIKSEN Wrinkle

Blur Bakuchiol Eye Gel Crème, $66, at Sephora.

2. Brighten Up!

3. True Essence

This unique essence uses a tri-phasic formula to prep and hydrate skin: immortelle essential oil (derived from the everlasting flower in Corsica) to strengthen, acmella oleracea (a plant known for its botox-like effect) to smooth, and prebiotics to balance skin. The booster can be applied AM or PM: simply shake to mix before gently patting into the skin.

L’OCCITANE Immortelle

Reset Tri-Phase Essence, $89, at L’Occitane boutiques across Canada.

5. Retinol Refresh

Last month, skincare brand RoC relaunched in Canada. Retinol is at the heart of this dermatologistrecommended brand, which returns with three collections: Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle to target deep wrinkles and firmness, Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing, which focuses on fine lines and pores, and the all-new Multi-Correxion Revive + Glow to help improve radiance.

ROC Multi Correxion Revive

+ Glow Gel Cream, $44, at Shoppers Drug Mart, Rexall and Walmart.

Brazil-inspired skincare brand Sol de Janeiro’s buttery body cream uses a blend of fruit AHAs derived from mango and banana, along with skin-brightening vitamin C to smooth bumpy and uneven skin. The cream also boasts a new Sol de Janeiro scent called Cheirosa ‘40, a gourmand blend of crushed black amber plum, crème de cassis, warm vanilla woods and jasmine.

4. Breakout Star

This revamped serum in La Roche-Posay’s Effaclar line (dedicated to oily and acne-prone skin) seeks to address both acne and the signs of aging as gently as possible. A high concentration of exfoliating acids like salicylic acid, glycolic acid and LHA get to work on pesky breakouts but your skin is cushioned by soothing niacinamide and thermal water.

6. Good, clean fun

SOL DE JANEIRO Bom Dia

LA ROCHE-POSAY Effaclar

ALYA SKIN Beauty Foaming

Bright Cream, $59 for 240 ml, at Sephora.

Ultra Concentrated Serum, $49, in all mass drugstores.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Australian skincare line Alya Beauty has finally landed in Canada with its best-selling Pink Clay Mask, alongside a lineup that includes a new micellar water cleanser.

The foaming cleanser brings together witch hazel, watermelon seed oil and rose seed oil to cleanse and refresh without stripping the skin of moisture.

7. Smooth Operator

NeoStrata’s eye cream is a boost for tired eyes with a gel-cream formula.

It uses a tag team of hyaluronic acid to hydrate and plump at the surface, and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) that go deeper for smoother, firmer skin.

NEOSTRATA Hydra Filling Eye

Gel-Cream, $48, at Shoppers Drug Mart from April.

8. C Patrol

Best known for C E Ferulic, a vitamin C serum beloved by skincare enthusiasts, Skinceuticals is introducing Silymarin CF, a serum created specially for oily and acne-prone skin. The oil-free formula’s key active ingredients—silymarin, derived from milk thistle, l-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid and salicylic acid—tackle excess oil, uneven skin tone and texture, and fine lines.

SKINCEUTICALS Silymarin

CF, $190, at skinceuticals.ca.

Micellar Cleanser, $20, at freshglow.ca.

17

NEW IN STORES

Hair Care

HEROES These shampoo and conditioner dynamic duos are here to help you raise your in-shower game

By Mishal Cazmi A WATERLESS FORMULA Everist is the brainchild of two Canadian beauty industry veterans who wanted to take sustainability to the next level. Clean and zero-waste, the brand’s patent-pending, waterless formula uses pure, active ingredients like aloe vera, amla and peppermint oil in its cream concentrate, which is activated with water.

The eco-friendly approach extends to the 100 ml aluminum tubes (the equivalent of a 300 ml shampoo bottle), which are recyclable.

EVERIST Waterless Shampoo Concentrate

and Conditioner Concentrate, $28 each, at helloeverist.com.

SALON-QUALITY HAIRCARE This New Zealand hair care brand is bringing its highly Instagrammable pink bottles and affordable haircare to Canada. The offering includes four ranges: Smooth, Volume, Gentle and Moisture, which are all formulated without SLS and parabens and are both recyclable and cruelty-free.

MONDAY HAIRCARE Volume Shampoo and

Conditioner, $10 each for 789 ml, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

HEALTHY, DEFINED CURLS The scientists at Nexxus discovered that curly and straight hair don’t just have a different structure, but the keratin proteins that make up the structures are different as well. These findings led them to create the Curl 18

Define line, made for curls and coils from 3A to 4C. The line strengthens the hair from within with the help of silk protein, along with moisturizing marula oil.

NEXXUS Curl Define Shampoo, $15, and

Conditioner, $17, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

SCALP BOOST Part of Tresemmé’s Pro Collection, this Scalp Detox shampoo and conditioner removes dirt, oil and excess build-up while also cooling and rebalancing sensitive scalps with its Hyaluronic Hydra Calm technology featuring hyaluronic acid. Micelle structures attract dirt and sebum, suspend it within the micelle and wash it away, leaving you with clean hair and a healthy scalp.

TRESEMMÉ Scalp Detox Shampoo and

Conditioner, $6 each, at Shoppers Drug Mart, Loblaws and Walmart.

HYDRATION BOOST The Hydrating Glow collection from Pantene’s Nutrient Blends line stars baobab essence, used to infuse hair with moisture. Not only does the baobab tree live and thrive in dry climates like Tanzania, it’s been used in beauty rituals by Tanzanian women to moisturize and protect the skin and hair.

PANTENE Nutrient Blends Hydrating Glow

Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner, $9 each, at drugstores.

“

Firmly radiant.”

Live beautifully

[GLOW PLUS COMPLEX] Acerola seed + organic goji berry + paprika extracts, and organic apricot oil.

86%

Monica Vaughan Business owner.

SKIN IS MORE TONED*

New Extra-Firming Energy Radiance-boosting, firmness, wrinkle-control All of Clarins Laboratories’ firming expertise. A new day cream, enriched with 12 plant extracts, including the [GLOW PLUS COMPLEX], a concentrate of glow-boosting superfruits for a double effect: energy and a healthy glow, instantly. Skin is visibly smoother and firmly radiant! *Consumer tests- 105 women - 28 days.

CLARINS.COM

@FEDNI

TREND TO TRY

Blotted Out

@ULLAJOHNSON

you’re in search of a fresh spring look: stained lips are making a comeback this season, as seen on Fendi’s Spring 2021 runway in Milan and at Ulla Johnson’s SS21 show. “At the beginning of the pandemic, a lot of women stopped wearing lipstick,” says Toronto-based makeup artist Sabrina Rinaldi.

“But we’re making a comeback to lip colour, and a stain is an effective but low-maintenance look.” She suggests choosing a lightweight formula that imparts a hint of colour. Apply it from the tube and blot with your finger to soften the edges—a stain looks best when it’s slightly imprecise, says Rinaldi. “I love a lip colour that gives a naturally enhanced, healthy look.” For a longerwearing, more mask-friendly application, go for a pigmented matte formula and blot your lips with a tissue to achieve the stained look.

— Lora Grady

S TA I N E D LI PS @LAURAHARRIER

WE’VE GOT GOOD NEWS if

Trend Nº 1

BEST FOR:

A low-maintenance errand run

Tool Kit

Photos: Instagram.

Clockwise from top left: Models

at Fendi’s Spring 2021 show in Milan wore a stained lip with a blurred effect; a coral stain was applied to the centre of models’ lips at Ulla Johnson’s SS21 show in New York; Laura Harrier rocked a glowy, berry pout on Insta.

20

ARMANI

Lip Maestro Liquid Lipstick in Sandstone, $49, at Armani-beauty.ca.

BITE BEAUTY

Outburst Longwear Lip Stain in Orange Fizz, $27, at Bitebeauty.com.

L’ORÉAL PARIS

Rouge Signature Matte Lip Stain in Empowered, $14, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2021

THE NEW EAU DE TOILETTE IT’S SO GOOD TO BE BAD

@TIPSNAILBAR

TREND TO TRY

Hot Tips ARE

getting a serious upgrade this year with more and more brands offering up innovative yet accessible press-on nail designs, including reusable ones. “Pressons are more on trend than ever before,” says Gina Edwards, celebrity nail artist and brand ambassador for Kiss. “People feel more comfortable managing their own nail care at home right now.” When it comes to achieving a flawless application, Edwards has a few tips. First, find the right size of press-on for each nail to ensure a snug, longer-lasting fit.

Before application, cleanse your nails and remove shine with a cotton bud soaked in rubbing alcohol. Tailor your nail shape with a file (make sure they won’t peek out from beneath the pressons). Edwards also recommends applying press-on nails in the evening beforebed, “so they can mould and shape to your nails without any wear or tear in the first 12 hours.”

— Lora Grady

@LIZZOBEEATING

MANICURES

PRESS-ON NAILS @TOMBACHIK

AT-HOME

Trend Nº 2

BEST FOR:

Virtual coffee dates

Tool Kit

Photos: Instagram.

Clockwise from top left: A fresh,

pretty design from Tips Nail Bar’s Press Refresh collection; Lizzo went for a glowing goddess look with these ethereal tips; celebrity manicurist Tom Bachik created this set of Versaceinspired nails for Jennifer Lopez.

TIPS NAIL BAR

Press Refresh in Relentless, $40, at TipsNailBar.shop.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

ESZAKKA

Holographic Rose Quartz Nails, $39, at Etsy.com.

KISS

Majestic Nails in My Crown, $20, at Walmart.

23

CLEANSES LIKE A SHAMPOO, CARES LIKE A MASK YOU’RE WORTH IT.

MORE THAN SHAMPOO 3X MORE SOFTNESS 2X MORE DETANGLING*

98

%

of Beauty Advisors recommend this product

“I like it’s creamy consistency without weighing my hair down and how soft my hair felt after rinsing the product out.”

- D. Cousins, SDM, Toronto ON I really liked the texture and scent.

Definitely a new favourite.”

- K.Kerr Rexall Hamilton ON

*Instrumental test vs non-conditioning shampoo.

F E AT U R E

T H E U LT I M AT E G U I D E TO YOUR SKIN’S MICROBIOME Expert tips on striking the right balance between good and bad bacteria for a glowing complexion

By Lora Grady SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

25

F E AT U R E

the term “microbiome” when it comes to gut health; pre- and probiotics have gained a lot of attention in the medical community for their ability to improve digestive health. Now, the skincare world is abuzz about how our skin microbiomes affect our complexions.

YOU’VE LIKELY HEARD

What is the skin microbiome? “‘Skin microbiome’ refers to the billions of microorganisms that live on the surface of the skin and its layers,” says Dr. Pari Oza, founder and CEO of Pari Aesthetics in Etobicoke, Ont. These microorganisms include bacteria, viruses, fungi and mites. Before you get icked out, know that these microbes are actually beneficial to us and serve many vital functions.

La Roche-Posay trainer Ariane Beaulieu Sirois says to think of the skin microbiome as the Amazon Rainforest, which needs a strong diversity of trees and plants in order to thrive. “The same is true for our skin: a balanced microbiome has its own ecosystem of bacteria which help protect our skin.”

26

What disrupts the skin microbiome?

Like our DNA, our skin microbiomes are super diverse.

Certain factors (age, sex, genes) are out of our control, but there’s still a lot we can do to avoid stressors. Be wary of antibacterial products; “because they don’t differentiate between good and bad bacteria, they can eliminate many of the beneficial bugs inhabiting our skin.” Frequent use of antibiotics can also cause an imbalance, resulting in moisture loss and increased penetration of environmental aggressors and allergens. This can show up on our skin in the form of visible redness, dryness, psoriasis, eczema and acne.

How to support the skin microbiome?

Here’s the good news: There’s a lot we can do in our daily lives to create a healthy skin microbiome. Firstly, says Dr. Oza, make sure you’re cleansing and drying your face correctly; too much friction can strip your skin of healthy microbes and create micro-tears in the skin, which can be a breeding ground for unhealthy pathogens. Gently pat your skin dry

rather than vigorously rubbing it with a towel.

There’s also growing evidence that prebiotics help maintain a balanced microbiome, since they help create a rich, diverse bacterial environment.

La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water has proven therapeutic properties as a prebiotic, says Sirois, “which acts as food for the microbiome’s bacteria, helping them flourish.” The brand also uses a naturally derived ingredient called Microresyl, which prevents “bad” bacteria (such as Staphylococcus) from multiplying too quickly and taking over the microbiome.

Other ingredients to look out for: Ceramides replenish the skin’s lipid barrier and provide a source of carbon for bacteria to feed on, while niacinamide encourages bacterial growth, thus helping maintain bacteria diversity.

Always read ingredient labels carefully before choosing a new skincare product, says Dr. Oza. “Synthetic dyes, parabens, alcohol, sulfates and artificial fragrances can be harmful to the skin’s microbiome.” When in doubt, go for dermatologist-recommended or hypoallergenic products.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2021

WITH

WATER CREAM Organic Cornflower

NATURALLY AWAKEN YOUR SKIN RESULTS Immediate hydration (1) +83%

24 H

Hydration (2) Skin is plumped

82% satisfaction (3)

Skin is brighter when you wake up

83% satisfaction AT

URA

98%

A

F

O

L

N

(3)

RMUL

+ Plant-based hyaluronic acid

(1) Hydration kinetics - 20 women - Result obtained after 1 hour of application. (2) 24h hydration kinetics - Single application - 20 women.

(3) Consumer usage test on 76 women aged 20 to 40 after 21 days using the Cornflower Water Gel-Cream. (4) Suggested average price based on collated data; the actual retail price is freely determined by approved distributors.

N AT U R A L C O S M E T I C I N N O VAT I O N

F E AT U R E

STRIKE THE RIGHT BALANCE WITH THESE MICROBIOMELO V I N G SKINCARE S U P E R S TA R S

Clinically proven to balance the skin’s microbiome, this mask contains a prebiotic from algae. It also has kaolin and bentonite clays to help leave skin radiant and clear.

ALGENIST Alive Prebiotic Balancing Mask,

$50, at Sephora.

This soothing balm rebalances the skin’s microbiome, banishing dry, itchy and eczema-prone skin and providing 48 hours of hydration. It can be used on the face and body, and it’s safe enough for babies, kids and adults.

LA ROCHE-POSAY Lipikar Balm AP+M, $25,

at Shoppers Drug Mart.

This formula is infused with prebiotics and probiotics to help brighten skin tone over time. It also helps protect against age-accelerating environmental stressors and is ideal for all skin types.

COVERFX Custom Blending Moisturizer, $55,

at Coverfx.com.

Made with amino and fatty acids, electrolytes and ceramides, this spray supports a healthy microbiome. It helps to reduce redness and promotes collagen production while keeping skin hydrated.

DRUNK ELEPHANT Sweet Biome Fermented

Sake Hydrating Spray, $55, at Sephora.

This mask contains probiotic-packed Greek yogurt to help strengthen the skin’s microbiome. Along with aloe juice and hyaluronic acid, it improves elasticity, radiance and texture.

KORRES Greek Yoghurt Probiotic SuperDose

Face Mask, $63, at Shoppers Drug Mart.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

29

OCT 28 2021

A n n o u n c i n g t h e N E W B e a u t y ’s B e s t A w a r d s celebrating the Best People & the Best Products!

We will be marrying the Canadian Beauty Awards with the COSA Awards to create one event: Beauty's Best Awards.

Visit COSMETICSMAG.COM to learn how to nominate a product or your favourite service provider.

Nomination Deadline: Friday June 11, 2021

LET'S CELEBRATE THE BEST OF THE BEST

To inquire about tickets and sponsorship opportunities, email Jim Hicks: jhicks@cosmeticsalliance.ca

H AA N N KK YYO OUU TTO O OOUURR SSPPOONNSSOORRSS TT H GGO S OLLD D SSPP O ON S O R S

VE ER S P O N S O SSIILLV O RRSS

NTT SSPP O ON N SS O OR RS EEVVEEN S

I OSN RG E S SE PNO T INNSGO R SPON O RS P O P P R O D U C TPI R OO NDSUPCOT N O RS P OPNRSEO SR E N TP IN P ISN NISNO SRP O NMSEODRI A S P O N S O R

INTRODUISANT

Vânia Aguiar

Notre rédactrice beauté partage les tendances de la nouvelle saison

<< Prendre soin de ses cheveux peut être un vrai casse tête mais pour arborer une belle chevelure l'étape soin est indispensable.

Beauté Capillaire L’ON SOIT blonde, brune, rousse… Que nos cheveux soient légèrement bouclés, lisses ou franchement frisés... Peu importe.

Après les rigueurs d’un hiver, toutes les tignasses ont besoin de magie. À nouvelle saison nouveaux produits les plus prometteurs ! On fait appel aux propositions innovantes : nettoyants, soins hydratants, masques enveloppants... Pandémie oblige, on transforme la salle de bains en salon de coiffure et on prend nos chevelures en main. Voici les incontournables de la saison.

QUE

DE KLORANE Baume après-shampooing

au beurre de Cupuaçu Bio Nutrition & Réparation, 12,60 $ les 200 ml, disponible en pharmacie DE DR HAUSCHKA Lotion pour cheveux, 32,50 $ les 100 ml, disponible sur Dr.Hauschka.ca DE FURTERER Sérum Concentré

de Jeunesse sans rinçage, 38 $ les 75 ml, disponible en salon DE ZOTOS PROFESSIONAL

>>

Traitement Divin Méga hydratation All About Curls, 16,79 $ les 236 ml, disponible en salon DE MONDAY Shampoing pour cheveux secs et abimés, 9,63 $ les 798 ml, disponible à Pharmaprix

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

31

“

Rayonnante de fermeté.” rendre la vie plus belle

[COMPLEXE ÉCLAT PLUS] Extraits de graines d’acérola, de baie de goji bio, de paprika et huile d’abricot bio.

86%

Monica Vaughan Cheffe d’entreprise.

PEAU PLUS TONIQUE*

Nouveau Extra-Firming Energy Éclat vitaminé, fermeté, anti-rides Toute l’expertise fermeté des laboratoires Clarins. Nouveau soin jour enrichi en 12 extraits de plantes, dont le [COMPLEXE ÉCLAT PLUS], un concentré de superfruits vitaminés au double effet énergie et bonne mine immédiat.

La peau est lissée et rayonne de fermeté ! *Tests consommateurs - 105 femmes - 28 jours.

CLARINS.COM

S A L U T, B E A U T É

Minois Lumineux SI VOUS VOUS apprêtez à rafraîchir votre trousse de maquillage pour la prochaine saison, sachez que le minimalisme sera le mot d’ordre au printemps.

L’effet « nude » sera en effet omniprésent, mais pas que ! Les teints se feront frais, lumineux, mais on pourra tout de même souligner notre regard et appliquer notre plus beau rouge à lèvres. Car les tendances beauté printanières vont couvrir un large spectre, se déclinant du fond de teint le plus discret jusqu’à l'ombre à paupières audacieuse des années 1980 et même jusqu’aux yeux bordés de khôl. Les minois vont donc se la jouer discrétion ou sur moi l’attention ! Au choix de l’artiste en vous !

DE CHANEL Illuminateur et

fards à joues Créations Exclusives Fleurs de Printemps, 90 $, disponible sur chanel.com DE NARS Fards à joues Air

Matte, nuance Orgasm, 39 $, disponible à La Baie

DE BITE Traceur liquide Upswing

Extreme longue tenue, 33 $, disponible sur bitebeauty.com

DE GUCCI Rouge à lèvres Glow &

Care Lip Colour, 55 $, disponible à Holt Renfrew Ogilvy D’OPI Vernis à ongles longue tenue

Infinite Shine 2, nuance Emmy have seen Oscar, 16,40 $, disponible amazon.ca D’YSL Fond de teint Touche Éclat

Le Teint, nuance Warm Almond, 74 $, disponible sur yslbeauty.ca DE BARE MINERALS Original

Correcteur Minéral Liquide, 33 $, disponible à Pharmaprix D’ESTÉE LAUDER Fond de teint

hydratant Futurist Hydra Rescue FPS 45, 57 $, disponible aux comptoirs Estée Lauder DE MOB BEAUTY Palette

Multi-fonctions Visage, Yeux et Joues, 175 $, disponible sur mobbeauty.com D’ESTÉE LAUDER Rouge à lèvres

Pure Color Illuminating Shine, nuance Unpredictable, 43 $, disponible à La Baie DE GUCCI Stylo Khol, nuance

Anthracite, 47 $, disponible à Holt Renfrew Ogilvy 33

S A L U T, B E A U T É

Éclosions Ensoleillées QUOI DE PLUS AGRÉABLE que de parer sa

peau des notes séduisantes d'un parfum inédit ? Quand le mercure remonte enfin petit à petit, quand la chaleur du soleil se fait de plus en plus sentir et qu’on anticipe avec excitation l’éclosion multicolore des bourgeons, c’est que le printemps se pointe enfin. Haro alors sur les lainages et autres camouflages, le temps est au changement ! Et un nouveau parfum est une formidable façon de combler ses envies de nouveauté. Voici pour vous ma sélection de concentrés olfactifs fraîchement distillés.

DE GUCCI Eau de Toilette

Gucci Guilty, 132 $ les 90 ml, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix DE ISSEY MIYAKE Eau de

Parfum A Drop d’Issey, 142 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie DE CHANEL Eau de Parfum

Le Lion Les Exclusifs de Chanel, 440 $ les 200 ml, disponible sur chanel.com

DE FERRAGAMO Eau de

Parfum Amo per lei, 145 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie DE MUGLER Eau de Parfum

Angel Nova, 115 $ les 50 ml, disponible à Sephora

DE NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Eau de Parfum For Her Musc Noir, 160 $ les 100 ml, disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix DE DOLCE & GABANNA

Eau de Parfum Dolce Rose, 130 $ les 100 ml, disponible à Sephora DE GIVENCHY Eau de

Parfum L’Interdit édition Millesime, 121 $ les 50 ml, disponible à La Baie 34

ESSENCES A U F É M ININ

DE VALENTINO Eau de

Parfum Born in Roma Yellow Dream Donna, 123 $ les 50 ml, disponible à La Baie DE VALENTINO Eau de

Parfum Born in Roma Yellow Dream Uomo, 92 $ les 50 ml, disponible à La Baie DE DOLCE & GABANNA

Eau de Parfum Light Blue Forever pour homme, 132 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie DE CALVIN KLEIN Eau de

Parfum Light Blue Forever pour homme, 132 $ les 100 ml, disponible à La Baie DE ATELIER COLOGNE

Eau de Parfum Lemon Island cologne absolue, 185 $ les 100 ml, disponible à Sephora DE CAROLINA HERRERA

Eau de Toilette Bad Boy, 124 $ les 100 ml, disponible à Sephora

ESSENCES AU MASCULIN

LA NOUVELLE EAU DE TOILETTE IT’S SO GOOD TO BE BAD

S A L U T, B E A U T É

é t u a e B La DE L’INNOVATION FIDÈLE COMPLICE DU GLAMOUR,

l’industrie de la parfumerie et de la cosmétique, si elle est florissante, est surtout très technique, voire technologique.

L’année dernière encore, elle a été riche en innovations.

La pandémie a bien sûr contribué grandement à la croissance de la beauté connectée, mais les innovations en matière de création et de marketing ont elles aussi été nombreuses. Les réglementations internationales sont de plus en plus strictes, l’interdiction de la vente de produits testés sur des animaux depuis 2013, par exemple, imposant aux intervenants concernés de plus en plus de rigueur. Cela concerne les composants des produits, mais également les méthodes de fabrication. Par ailleurs, la recherche ne prenant jamais de pause, les formulations et procédés progressent.

Résultat : de nombreux actifs sont découverts et proposés à travers de nouvelles marques ou de nouvelles gammes.

Prenons l’exemple de l’huile de cannabis sativa utilisée dans la création de produits cosmétiques véganes et d’origine 100 % naturelle. Les marques qui développent cette nouvelle formulation promettent

36

un ratio d’antioxydants et d’omégas-3 jusqu’à 40 fois plus élevé que celui de l’argan et de la noix de coco.

Autre innovation, le biocapteur, nouvel outil d’analyse qui permet aux professionnels le suivi de l’impact de l’environnement sur la peau.

Le marché du tatouage et du maquillage permanent a quant à lui bénéficié du développement d’encres sans métaux pouvant être rendues visibles et invisibles par l’application de crèmes dépigmentaires ou recolorantes. Un bouleversement bienvenu !

L’industrie de la beauté voit d’un bon œil toute nouvelle technologie sécuritaire qui lui permet d’innover dans ses façons de faire. Le Groupe L’Oréal, par exemple, travaille depuis quelques années sur l’intelligence artificielle pour conjuguer connaissances en dermatologie et mégadonnées.

La cosmétique tient une place majeure dans l’économie mondiale. Confrontées aux exigences sans cesse grandissantes des consommateurs friands de transparence, de personnalisation et de solutions, les marques n’ont d’autre choix que d’investir dans l’innovation tous azimuts.

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2021

QUE NOUS RÉSERVE 2021 EN MATIÈRE DE BEAUTÉ NOVATRICE ?

Les nouveaux soins devront livrer un maximum d’efficacité, de confort et de sensorialité, un combo digne de l’Eldorado. micellaire, lait, huile, lotions toniques purifiante, hydratante ou apaisante…) qui respectent la flore cutanée et excellent à la sublimer. Inspirée par la pureté et des bienfaits de plantes trouDE DERMALOGICA Sérum pour le cou, raffermissant vées dans les Alpes, la marque est fière et tonifiant matin et soir, 116 $ les 50 ml, disponible de lancer 10 produits dont la technologie sur dermalogica.ca tensio-active est habile à préserver CHANEL, quant à elle, innove par la voie l’équilibre du microbiote de la peau. de sa gamme Le Lift, dont le Complexe DE CLARINS Huile Très Démaquillante, 38 $ les d’eau magnétique composé d’éléments 150 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Clarins mimétiques de la peau a le pouvoir Réputée pour la concentration très d’organiser l’eau en couches concen- supérieure à la moyenne du marché triques pour améliorer son affinité et sa de ses ingrédients actifs, la marque disponibilité au cœur de la peau. québécoise IDC DERMO lance, dans sa DE CHANEL Le Lift Lotion, 100 $ les 150 ml, gamme GlōwFix issue du Complexe disponible sur chanel.com Radiance haute concentration, un Pour sa part, la technologie de la nouvelle exfoliant dont la formule combine Crème Riche et Le Super Potent Sérum un puissant mélange de multi-acides, Capture Totale de DIOR relance le d'enzymes de fruits et d'antioxydants. potentiel des cellules mères de la peau, D’IDC Disques Quotidiens Éclat Resurfaçant GlōwFix dont six fonctions sont réactivées : Peel, 51,99 $ les 60 unités, disponibles en pharmacie énergie, régénération, autoréparation, En se basant sur l’écobiologie, cicatrisation, production et renforce- ESTHEDERM innove avec sa Crème ment cellulaire. Un procédé novateur mains Excellage, dont la technologie aux résultats ultra efficaces.

Repair+ stimule la synthèse dermique DE DIOR Capture Totale C.E.L.L. Energy Super Potent et la cohésion dermoépidermique. Ce Rich Crème, 145 $ les 50 ml, disponible à La Baie soin est conçu expressément pour ESTÉE LAUDER est elle aussi en tête en renforcer l’armature de soutien de la proposant sa Sérum Yeux Révélateur peau des mains et on sait combien elle d’Énergie Ultimate Diamond, un soin en a plus que jamais besoin. de sa gamme Re-Nutriv qui stimule D’ESTHEDERM Excellage Crème mains, 45 $ les 50 ml, la production de collagène naturel en disponible sur esthederm.ca seulement 2 heures, menant celle-ci à FILORGA ajoute à sa gamme Globalun sommet de 215 % après 72 heures. Repair un Soin multi-revitalisant DE ESTÉE LAUDER Re-Nutriv Sérum Yeux contour yeux & lèvres qui, très Révélateur d’Énergie Ultimate Diamond, 230 $ les nourrissante et dotée d’un agent 15 ml, disponible à La Baie activeur de microcirculation, zappe Les chercheurs des laboratoires de sans effet gras tous les signes de l’âge la maison CLARINS, dont la passion en un seul geste. pour les plantes est depuis longtemps DE FILORGA Global-Repair Eyes & Lips Soin connue, ont choisi de plancher sur des multi-intensif contour yeux & lèvres, 119 $ les 15 ml, soins démaquillants et nettoyants (eau disponible à la Galerie Beauté de Pharmaprix Pour ce faire, DERMALOGICA s’attaque au vieillissement de la peau du cou avec sa technologie Flex lift contour qui raffermit et lifte cette zone du corps trop souvent oubliée.

Nos visages seront donc chouchoutés et sublimés par les meilleurs de l’industrie, non seulement parce qu’ils sont au service de notre beauté mais aussi parce qu’ils fondent cette mission essentielle sur les avancées vertigineuses de la technologie et de la science les plus rigoureuses.

C’est ainsi que, en 2021, l’innovation se fera fabuleusement beautiful !

37

D'autres produits innovants méritent de prendre place dans vos armoires aux trésors. Voici mes plus récents coups de coeur.

L ES CR È M E S D E LA CR È M E

LE S S U P E R S L O T IO NS

É C L AT L U M INE U X

DE JOUVIANCE Crème + Sérum booster 3 en 1 Duo Pro, 120 $ les 50 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE DR. HAUSCHKA Fluide de Jour Apaisant, 55 $ les 50 ml, disponible sur drhauschka.com

DE REVERSA Crème radiance-Glow 4% Acide Glycolique, 60 $ les 50 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE CLARINS Crème Jour Éclat Vitaminé Extra-Firming Energy, 92 $ les 50 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Clarins

DE L’EAU THERMALE AVÈNE Lotion nettoyante gélifiée Tolérance, 29,99 $ les 400 ml, disponible en pharmacie

D’ESTÉE LAUDER Crème douceur éclat Revitalizing Supreme+Bright, 113 $ les 50 ml, disponible à la Baie

TOP MASQUES

L E S NO U V E L L E S H U IL E S

L ES SÉR U M S AN T I - Â G E

DE CAUDALIE Sérum Liftant Fermeté Resveratrol-Lift, 95 $ les 30 ml, disponible à Sephora

DE DERMALOGICA Masque Melting Moisture, hydratation intense pour peau sèche, 92 $ les 50 ml, disponible sur dermalogica.ca

DE BURT’S BEES Truly Glowing rehausseur d’éclat avec des huiles riches en antioxydants, 19,99 $ les 15 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE VICHY Liftactiv Supreme H.A. Wrinkle Filler, 62,95 $ les 30 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE KLORANE Patchs Yeux Lissants & Défatigants au bleuet bio & acide hyaluronique, 34,99 $ les 7 patchs, disponible en pharmacie

DE GOOP Huile Goopgenes pour le visage super nutritive tout-en-un, 135 $ les 30 ml, disponible goop.com

D’OLAY Sérum Regenerist Tonifiant MAX, 44,99 $ les 40 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE SWISS LINE Masque pour les yeux Cell Shock, 160 $ les 20 ml, disponible sur swissline-cosmetics.com

38

COSMETICSMAG.COM | SPRING 2021

QUE DES BRUMES

N E T T O YA NT S INTELLIGENTS

DE L’EAU THERMALE AVÈNE Brume hydratante Hydrance, 25 $ les 100 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE CLARINS Eau Micellaire Démaquillante, 38 $ les 200 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Clarins

DE MALIN+GOETZ Déodorant à la Bergamote, 26 $ les 73 g, disponible à Sephora

D’WELEDA Brume Hydratante Diaphane 19,99 $ les 100 ml, disponible en pharmacie

DE QUO Baume Nettoyant à la banane, 20 $ les 50 ml, disponible à Pharmaprix

DE DRUNK ELEPHANT Vaporisateur au saké ferment, 55 $ les 100 ml, disponible à Sephora

DE FRESH Soin Nettoyant visage au Kombucha avec de l’Inuline Prébiotique, 58 $ les 200 ml, disponible Sephora

DE CHANEL Crème pour les corps Gabrielle, 105 $ les 150g, disponible sur chanel.com

LES RÉVÉLATEURS DE REGARD

DE GUERLAIN Sérum Eye R Repair pour les yeux Abeille Royale, 155 $ les 15 ml, disponible aux comptoirs Guerlain

S A U VE R SON COU

SENSORIALITÉ GLOBALE

D’AM Huile corporel, 38 $ les 50 ml, disponible sur ateliermajor.com DE DR RENAUD Lait pour le corps BioNutrition hydratation intense, 60 $ les 225 ml, disponible sur ldrenaud.com

DE BARE MINERALS Crème pour le cou Phyto-Rétinol Ageless, 68 4 les 50 ml, disponible à Pharmaprix

DE NEOSTRATA Correct Gel-crème Hydra-comblant Yeux, 48 $ les 15 ml, disponible en pharmacie

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

39

INTRODUCING

OCT 28, 2021 2021

An informative marketing driven conference to talk about the future of the retail beauty business in Canada. This full-day event will feature six dynamic speakers who will share their insights with attendees W H AT:

WHERE:

Royal York Hotel, Ontario Room, Toronto, Canada

Thursday October 28, 2021 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (Breakfast and lunch will be included.)

WHEN:

So beauty marketers, retailers and suppliers can talk about what effect online sales will have on our businesses, how advancements in Artificial Intelligence will effect our future, what’s next for our legacy retailers, new beauty trends and much more!

W H Y:

MEET TWO OF OUR CONFERENCE SPEAKERS:

is a world-renowned futurist, researcher, and media celebrity. He leads the team Exponential Minds, an expert advisory firm that helps trillion-dollar companies, progressive governments and media shift their mindset from “what is” to “WHAT IF…” NIKOLAS BADMINTON

Vice President, Industry Advisor, Beauty at The NPD Group, is an expert in the prestige skincare, makeup, fragrance, and hair categories.

LARISA JENSEN,

JOIN OUR SPONSORSHIP PROGRAM

For more information + sponsorship opportunities please email:

Jim Hicks at JHicks@CosmeticsAlliance.ca

ADVISORY TOOLS

A CLOSE LOOK: SQUALENE ABOUT ROB STEWART Cosmetics sits down with Sandy & Brian Stewart of the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation to discuss squalene, an oil derived from shark liver that’s endangering the deep sea species

By Kathy Winter C: HOW EXACTLY IS SQUALENE USED IN BEAUTY PRODUCTS? S&B: Squalene (also spelled squalane)

is used as a moisturizing ingredient in sunscreen, lipstick/lip balms, foundation, moisturizers, eye makeup and tanning oils.

Most squalene in cosmetics is shark liver oil.

C: ARE THERE ALTERNATIVES THAT CAN BE USED? S&B: Yes, readily available alternatives

are made from olive oil and synthetics from sugar cane. “Ninety per cent of shark squalene is sold to cosmetic producers. The use of endangered and threatened species is an issue for the industry.

C: ARE MOST BEAUTY COMPANIES AWARE OF THE USE OF SHARK SQUALENE IN THEIR PRODUCTS?

Photos: Adobe.

S&B: In 2008, consumer awareness cam-

paigns pressured the EU to shift to using plant-based squalene. Major brands L’Oréal, Unilever, Ponds and Beiersdorf phased out shark squalene from their product lines. In North America, there’s much less awareness for it.

C: SO WHAT TYPE OF AWARENESS CAMPAIGN WILL YOU LAUNCH ABOUT BRANDS USING SHARK SQUALENE? S&B: The foundation is partnering with

Cosmetics Alliance to develop a Shark Free certification program to launch in 2021. With Rob’s celebrity connections and millions of followers, we’ll be launching a wide consumer awareness campaign simultaneously.

C: HOW CAN COMPANIES ASSIST IN THIS MISSION? S&B: Join us and be leaders in the cosmetics

industry and assist in developing guidelines and standards that ensure products are shark free. Removing shark squalene from products and supply chains will instantly reduce the number of sharks fished. Twentysix of the 60 shark species fished for their livers are threatened with extinction.

Rob Stewart was an award-winning biologist, Activist and filmmaker, and more than 135 million people worldwide have seen his films (Sharkwater, Revolution & Sharkwater Extinction).

He made it his life’s mission to save sharks and the oceans. Millions of sharks are hunted and killed each year for their fins and their livers.

Shark livers contain an oil known as squalene, manufactured into Squalene/Squalane.

To learn more about the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation visit: RobStewartSharkWaterFoundation.org

C: WILL THIS BE DIFFICULT? S&B: Cosmetics Alliance and our foun-

dation are committed to assist. Squalene product labelling stays the same whether it comes from shark or a vegetable source.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

There’s a Shark in My Lipstick!

Shark squalene in cosmetics

41

Calling all Beauty Advisors!

Cast your vote for the 2021"I Recommend" Beauty Awards

Got a cleanser you covet, a face cream you fan girl over or a mascara you worship?

Now’s the time to tell the world about it.

We need you, the front line of the beauty business to cast your vote for this year’s “I Recommend” awards.

Just tell us which products you recommend day after day — and why they are the best.

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Voting closes Friday April, 16th 2021

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ADVISORY TOOLS

NOW IS THE TIME TO REINFORCE THE NEED FOR

COMPULSORY MASK WEARING

No Time to Let Up on Safety in Cosmetics Retail, Maintaining Safe Practices Critical to Reducing Spread of Covid-19

for both customers and employees

SOCIAL DISTANCING

AS THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC CONTINUES ACROSS CANADA, it is

important to reinforce the need to have good practices in place for “in-person” cosmetics retail – both for those jurisdictions that remain open as well as those currently shut down but preparing to re-open. This is critical to help reduce the risk of spreading Covid-19 and protect our beauty advisors, direct sellers, and their customers/clients.

What do we know about Covid-19?

We know it can spread through respiratory droplets, personal contact, and touching a surface with the virus on it.

We know that it can survive on some surfaces and products but may also be inactivated by cleaning and disinfecting. And we know that it can result in devasting health consequences and even death.

While vaccines have been developed,

it will take many months or even longer to get enough Canadians vaccinated to slow the spread and stop the pandemic. Until this time, we all need to work together to reduce the risk of exposure to the virus.

Cosmetics Alliance Canada, with the help of subject experts and industry partners, has developed Guidance for Re-Opening In-Person Cosmetics Retail. It can be found HERE. The materials were developed to help industry understand and mitigate the risk of exposure to the coronavirus as well as assist in training and promoting the safety of beauty advisors and their customers.

The beauty industry must do its part at the beauty counter and in the cosmetics aisles to remain vigilant in protecting the health of employees and customers throughout the pandemic.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

and the use of plexi-glass shields

STRICT SAFETY/HYGIENE PROTOCOLS

for all customer interactions, product demonstrations, and makeup applications

ELIMINATE

customer access to product testers 43

INGREDIENT 101

BRIGHTEN UP! How to reap the illuminizing, smoothing benefits of the naturally occurring antioxidant astaxanthin

By Lora Grady

AMAZING ASTAXANTHIN

This handy stick, made with retinol, peptides and astaxanthin, helps improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles under eyes.

PEACE OUT

Retinol Eye Stick, $37, at Sephora.

Photos: Adobe.

IT’S NO SECRET that free-radical- with harsher ingredients like retinol.)

fighting antioxidants are key when it comes to reducing wrinkles and protecting our skin from environmental factors. That’s why we’re thrilled to see so many brands introducing new products with astaxanthin—a particularly potent antioxidant that’s way stronger than vitamins C and E but still gentle enough for all skin types.

“Astaxanthin is a carotenoid: a vibrant red-orange pigment that can be found in plants, vegetables, fruits and seafood such as salmon and lobster,” says Dr. Jane Wu, a dermatologist at Cleveland Clinic Canada. In a snap, astaxanthin is great for hydrating dry skin. Over time, says Dr. Wu, “it can help improve skin’s youthfulness by preventing sun-damage-related oxidative stress.” That means it can reduce hyperpigmentation while taking on fine lines and wrinkles. Dr. Wu points out that astaxanthin has also been shown to have some anti-inflammatory properties, which can help with skin sensitivity. (It even plays nice

Ryan Nelson, global director of education for Peace Out Skincare, says astaxanthin is indeed a superstar ingredient when it comes to defending against environmental stressors. In fact, one 2007 study found that astaxanthin is 6,000 times stronger than vitamin C. That’s why the brand used it as a key ingredient in its Retinol Eye Stick released earlier this year.

“Astaxanthin is great for all skin types but is especially good for sensitive, delicate skin—such as around the eyes—due to its soothing nature.”

Both Nelson and Dr. Wu recommend daily use. “In the form of serums and moisturizers, astaxanthin can be applied topically morning and evening,” says Dr. Wu. She suggests applying after cleansing and before sunscreen. The long-term benefits are what really make it worth adding to your routine: Astaxanthin helps improve everything from uneven tone and dark spots to texture and moisture.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

Formulated with antioxidants astaxanthin, grape juice and sunflower shoot extract, this daily sunscreen moisturizes and minimizes the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

DRUNK ELEPHANT

Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defense SPF 30, $45, at Sephora.

This hardworking serum hydrates, brightens and smooths stressed-out skin with astaxanthin, fullerene and zinc PCA. SKYN ICELAND

Icelandic Youth Serum with Red Algae, $56, at Sephora.

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Women facing cancer are often told losing their hair and changes to skin are “normal”. But there is nothing normal about cancer.

Join us online for our complimentary workshops for women and teens. Our warm and knowledgeable Look Good Feel Better® volunteers will help you feel more like yourself again.

Visit lgfb.ca for resources and to register.

Text

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER® | REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

#PROWELOVE

TOP TIPS The Look: Mat-Geo Adventures Why We Love It: The play on shapes and precise colour blocking work leave the eye mesmerized.

Also, who isn’t into a smooth matte finish?

Naomi Misu, from TIPS Nail Bar in Toronto, has spent nearly a decade perfecting her skills as a nail tech and artist—offering up a vast catalogue of stellar styles sought after not only at the salon but by fellow mags like Chatelaine. With COVID-19 keeping a long list of nail salons closed, look no further than these fave looks for at-home inspo until you can book an appointment and treat your tips to a long-overdue pampering session.

By Stephanie Hicks

THE TALENT:

NAOMI MISU @naomi_misu

Photos: Instagram.com/naomi_misu.

The Look: Snap, Crackle and Pop Why We Love It: These nearly there accents not only show her detail work but the manicure itself is worth celebrating.

The Look: Art Class Why We Love It: Paint splatter coupled with a tie dye-esque finish provides that extra flair we *need* coming out of this long winter.

The Look: Metallic Sorbet Why We Love It: We love her use of negative space and the different finishes in the polish.

No need to look further than this look for Easter brunch.

SPRING 2021 | COSMETICSMAG.COM

The Look: Neon Nightlife Why We Love It: We love the extra pop the black outline gives on the neon, and the white stars sparkle on the glossy midnight shade. Who’s ready for a night out?

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for behindthe-scenes action

COMING SOON The “I Recommend” Awards issue—packed with the best recommendations from BAs across the country—is out on June 3!

C OS M E TI C SMA G. C OM