VINI FRANCHETTI
2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
“What I like about Franchetti (apart from the nerdy film star looks) is his contrariness. [At Tenuta di Trinoro,] he has deliberately concentrated on the often-overlooked Cabernet Franc vine because he likes it, and he thinks the Bordelais make too little of it.”
JANCIS ROBINSON
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
4
Andrea Franchetti
Looking at the principles which underpin Corney & Barrow: Excellence, Integrity, Independence, Spirit and Relationships, it is unsurprising that we forged a relationship with Andrea Franchetti as he ticks all of those boxes – in spades.
His spirit and independence are legendary – always in pursuit of excellence. In Andrea, spirit and independence combined make him something of a maverick, certainly a pioneer.
Barone Andrea Franchetti’s background, rich, varied and artistic, contributed to his extraordinarily complex character – a combination of genius, brilliance and cussed determination. The Franchetti family moved in exalted and enlightened circles over centuries. They have touched base, through marriage and friendships, with the Rothschilds, artist Cy Twombley and Ernest Hemingway. Their palazzo in Rome more than nod to their nobility.
Vini Franchetti comprises two very different estates, Trinoro in Southern Tuscany and Passopisciaro in Sicily, both conceived by Andrea.
In the beginning:
• In far flung rural Tuscany, the isolated Val d’Orcia, Andrea carved out his own access over a tree-covered hillside,
starting a vineyard from scratch, building terraces in a unique inland valley at between 450 and 600 meters above sea level.
• The soil was eroded rock in parts and in others limestone and clay – reminiscent, in Andrea’s eyes, of his beloved Bordeaux. This was one reason why he looked towards Bordeaux varietals rather than Tuscany’s ubiquitous Sangiovese.
•He sold one of his Uncle Cy’s paintings to buy Tenuta di Trinoro, which he refers to as “a godforsaken place… with an ex-volcano between it and the sea.” He has also said of his first visit “I went crazy for the place, I was mesmerised”.
What next?
•Andrea’s next vision was the renaissance of abandoned vineyards on grumbling, fiery Mount Etna. Six of the wines he produces there are from the indigenous varietal Nerello Mascalese, grown in separate plots, each of which offer a unique personality.
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INTRODUCTION
5
ALISON BUCHANAN September 2020
TUSCANY: TENUTA DI TRINORO
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
Tenuta di
6
Tenuta di Trinoro is the eponymous flag-bearer of the Trinoro estate.
Trinoro
That means something today but the wines and the estate were unknowns / non-existent only thirty years or so ago. We launched them in 1998 and sold out – more than extraordinary for a first vintage from a new vineyard but Andrea had pruned and preened his young vines almost to extinction so that the inaugural wines – just two then, Trinoro and Palazzi, were both fabulously intense and effortlessly balanced - a huge achievement. The Trinoro is vintage-dependent – which we like – bar having to mug up on the facts pre every tasting. Cabernet Franc and Merlot tend to dominate, with varying amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Andrea gets particularly excited by Cabernet Franc as it enjoys the conditions here and can ripen fully.
Later, Andrea added an elegant, seductively harmonious wine to the collection, which we call the “little brother of Trinoro”, Le Cupole di Trinoro – a great wine in its own right. Now, most recently, Andrea has given recognition to the individuality of three distinct vineyard sites within the estate, creating the three Campi, Campo di Magnacosta, Campo di Tenaglia and Campo di Camagi. These are single vineyards of Cabernet Franc, offering different expressions of the same variety.
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THE 2019 VINTAGE AT TENUTA DI TRINORO
2019 began with a cold spring and even a light frost during the night of the 7th May, during which the team lit some 9000 candles to help prevent damage – a rather spectacular sight. Cold weather continued, delaying flowering. From the sublime to the ridiculous, August was scorchingly hot, essentially arresting the growth cycle, before the temperature dropped down again at the end of the month. That stalled things even further. When harvest was finally achieved it was “our latest ripening vintage in ten years.” As ever here, harvest was protracted with many passages through the vines awaiting full phenolic ripening. The weather smiled on the team with a warm October so that Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot were picked rapidly on the 23rd and 24th of the month. The vintage is marked, positively, by the cool May and August conditions, contributing uplifting freshness.
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
“…cold temperatures in May and again at the end of August had a profound effect on the wines, leaving a trace of freshness, despite the steady heat of the summer and fall”
8
ANDREA FRANCHETTI, 2020
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VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR 10
BIANCO DI TRINORO
2019
This was a bit of a shocker when we heard about it, a white wine so far south in Tuscany a somewhat clandestine project produced by a man with proclivities towards fine German white. All cynicism was soon reversed however – what a surprise! Andrea elected to plant Semillon on a tiny (0.5ha) parcel of sand, in the highest reaches of the Trinoro Estate, some seventeen years ago. There has been a white produced there, on and off, since 2008 but the first public release was the 2017 vintage (which we did NOT see). The vines, 100% Semillon, are at 630m above sea level, planted Bordelais style at 10000 vines per hectare.
Broad stone fruit and pastry on the nose, with a hint of creamy density. The palate is fresh and buzzing with energy, zesty green citrus adding verve to the more seated peach and apricot flavours. A hint of honey and then a twist of grapefruit on the finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025
£245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
TENUTA DI TRINORO
2019
The blend is 50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot. An intense jet-plum in colour, this benefited enormously from the exceptional late season conditions. The nose has wonderful depth and exudes violets, seductive ripe fruit, tobacco, nutmeg spice and an intriguing hint of balsamic. Rich, with tight tannins, lively it warrants patience – truly noble wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034+
£775/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£785/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
PALAZZI, TENUTA DI TRINORO
2019
100% Merlot as always, this has a truly gorgeous “come hither” nose - red berry fruit salad, plum compote and complementary minerals, lifted with fresh herbs. The aromatics are reflected on the palate which is luscious and really rather lovely. Somehow, surprisingly, this retains balance between perfume, power, elegance, opulence and finesse.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2033+
£675/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£685/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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11
CAMPO DI MAGNACOSTA
2019
100% Cabernet Franc, Magnacosta is a 1.5 hectare gravelly site where an old stream eats (magna) into a hillside (costa). The Cabernet Franc, grown from Pomerol cuttings is, in Andrea’s mind, the “lightest of the campi.” It certainly tends to be the most accessible. The 2019 offers a rather high-toned, red fruit nose, focused, touched with mint, grape must and wild blackcurrant leaf. The palate reflects the aromatics presented on the nose whilst registering this is no pushover – a serious drop, with real drive and grip.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2030+
£315/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CAMPO DI TENAGLIA
2019
100% Cabernet Franc, Tenaglia, is sited at 520m altitude, west-facing. It is a mere 0.3 hectares in size, planted on friable limestone. A brilliant jet-plum in colour, this presents a compact, black-fruited nose, lifted by leafy, menthol notes. The palate is generous, with really beautiful balance. Opulence offset by ripe tannins and fresh acidity – upbeat and more gregarious than the nose suggests with dark cherry compote and grilled fennel, lightly spiced. an accessible, upbeat, fresh style, the abundant fruit complemented by light spice, all supported by a beautifully-integrated structure – velvettextured.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2031+
£310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CAMPO DI CAMAGI
2019
100% Cabernet Franc, Campo di Camagi comes from a 1.5 hectare plot planted in 1991-92 and is the oldest of the campi, the highest too at 600m. In the early days, fruit from this site would have been incorporated in Le Cupole. The nose offers profound, dark fruit, peppery and herbal. The palate is rich, complex and layered, rather decadent with its concentration of sweet dark cherry and, unusually delicate hints of citrus zest – appetising – yet best exercise a little patience. The tannins are ripe, but exceptionally present, promising good ageing potential.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2032+
£310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
12
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THE 2018 VINTAGE AT TENUTA DI TRINORO
“…2018 brought ripeness and complexity due to the long, dry autumn and the protracted hanging time…. wines of great beauty, balance and complexity”
ANDREA FRANCHETTI
The temperate conditions in 2018 were extremely welcome. In addition, spring rains allowed the vines to replenish reserves in readiness for the summer ahead.
Farmers are notoriously pessimistic, so concerns over drought and the paucity of the vintage were suddenly transported to fears of potential over abundance. Strict avoidance measures were deemed necessary – an expensive, painstaking debudding programme - to aid concentration.
Summer was relatively sanguine, with a blend of sun, rain and cool, breezy nights. September was lovely, sunny, warm, dry and with clear blue skies. September brought beautiful weather, warm and dry days. Harvest began with grapes which were low in alcohol, with fresh acidity and rich in flavour, reminiscent, in Andrea’s view of Saint-Émilion.
This was a year for beautiful, intense Merlot and rich, fragrant Cabernet Franc to form the core of the blend.
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
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LE CUPOLE, TENUTA DI TRINORO
2018
Le Cupole sprinkles something of the gold-dust of its superstar brother, the eponymous Tenuta di Trinoro, though to a much wider audience. It is positively decadent in its approachability, seductive, silken and layered year on year - heart on sleeve. This, the 2018 vintage, is true to type, a deep garnet in colour, offering an extraordinary, assertive nose. There is wonderfully overt cassis, herbs and flowers, allied to a decisive savoury layer and, more complex, a mocha backdrop. The palate echoing the aromatics of the nose, is beautifully textured, full and ripe – a real crowd-pleaser yet with a bearing which hints at the character of its venerated older brother. The blend as ever reflects the climate conditions and in 2018 is 40% Cabernet Franc, 37% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2029+
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OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £155/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK To Order LONDON
2430 EDINBURGH
321 921 HONG KONG
33
+65 6221 8530 EMAIL sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK. 15
£150/CASE
020 7265
01875
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SINGAPORE
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
16
Vineyards at Passopisciaro
ETNA, SICILY: TENUTA DI PASSOPISCIARO
Many years ago now, Adam Brett-Smith and I were fortunate enough to be staying at Trinoro when Andrea regaled us with news of his new project - based in Sicily –more specifically on the live volcano, Etna.
His aim was to restore ancient vineyards on the slopes of the mountain, vines abandoned by farmers upping sticks due to the sheer difficulty in making ends meet through phylloxera, war and the impossibly steep slopes. …or perhaps it was the lava-belching volcano which frightened them away. The after dinner entertainment found us treated to reel after reel of footage of flames, red and white hot flying rocks and rivers of apparent fire. It was not hard to see why the vineyards might have been abandoned – totally terrifying. Other than the sound of crashing rocks and falling trees, there was periodic insistence from Andrea that we must visit.
It took some time for us to get there but the experience was extraordinary.
• First sight: a molten metal ticket booth – looked like it had been set on fire several times and nothing to do with the volcano - Welcome to Sicily:
• We then had to pass the town of Corleone ensuring an earworm of a certain theme tune remained throughout the short trip.
• A trip part of the way up the mountain: Luscious verdant countryside and woodland gives way to what looks like a solid black river, devoid of life. Above, skiers enjoy a day’s sunshine near the top just as Etna makes her presence felt with the odd flame and constant plumes of smoke. Further down (far enough away) we are gradually bronzing as we take time to appreciate the drama. Further down the slope, at the end of the lava flow, a statue of the Madonna stands, hand reaching out in supplication – one of many we saw that morning each marking the end of what had once been a river of molten rock. We deliberated whether she was used to stay the flow (that would have involved much bravery) or, more likely, she was there in thanksgiving for saving the villages below.
That is the context in which Andrea embarked on his new dream, Tenuta di Passopisciaro. Established in 2000, it is seen as one of the region’s stars, producing very individualistic, characterful wines, with pronounced volcanic influence.
In this release we are offering the single crus “Contrade” 2018s and the extremely rare Franchetti 2019 en primeur as well as the bottled, read to drink, accessible Passobianco 2019 and Passorosso 2018.
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17
THE ETNA 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES AT TENUTA DI PASSOPISCIARO
2018
“varietally correct, linear, with fresh acidity”
Andrea Franchetti
2018 was unusual on Etna, extremely wet and tropical, particularly towards the end of the summer. A lot of extra work had to be done in the vineyard to mitigate the threat of disease, stripping leaves to allow better airflow. Cesanese d’Affile withstood the humid conditions well although harvest was earlier than usual. Petit Verdot came in healthy and ripe, rich and intense.
2019
“a late-ripening, high quality vintage”
Andrea Franchetti
Spring was cold – even a light frost in early May - remaining cool until the end of May so flowering was delayed. June was warmer at last and then ferociously hot at the end of the month. Heat spikes continued to the end of September allowing some catch up in the vines. In the end this is a harmonious vintage balancing ripe fruit and acidity.
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
18
PASSOBIANCO 2019
Instead of the indigenous Carricante, Andrea elected to plant 100% Chardonnay, 5 hectares of vines planted on steep terraces at between 850m and 1000m above sea level on loose, powdery lava soil, rich in minerals. This wine used to be called Guardiola, named after the contrada in which it resides – but the name had to be changed to comply with local laws. The vineyard is now 16 years old, densely planted at 12,300 vines per hectare. There is no new oak, just fermentation in stainless steel in ageing in old large oak, cement plus 6 months in bottle before release.
This offers crushed shell minerals on the nose, allied to flowers – Chablis-esque in style on the nose, The palate is richer than suggested by the nose – more tropical - with shades of lychee, apricot and peach. A hint of grapefruit, allied to mineral, lifts the finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17+
Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2025+
£145/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
PASSOROSSO 2018
100% Nerello Mascalese, from vines between 80 to 110 years old, planted on different lava flows and altitudes - complex. Pale, bright ruby in colour, this offers soft, gentle fruit on the nose and palate – vibrant with a characteristic volcanic minerality. This has elements reminiscent of Pinot Noir. More serious than it looks, this will hit the ground running, with food, but has the capacity to age.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17.25+
Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2027+
£150/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£155/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
FRANCHETTI 2019
The pinnacle of the Etna wines, Andrea has attached his own name. The blend in 2019, at the time of tasting, is 50% Petit Verdot, 50% Cesanese d’Affile. Deep jet-plum in colour, this has a rather youthful, vibrantly fruited nose, rich in red and black fruit, brightly and sweetly spiced. Intriguingly there is a hint of citrus. The palate is big and powerful, lifted by fresh herbs. As is often the case with this wine, the pretty seduction of the nose illprepares the taster for the grandeur of the palate and the significance of the structure. Very grown up, with intense dark fruit and subtle iodine notes, impressive through to a protracted, layered finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2029+
£375/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND
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UK
19
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR 20
THE PASSOPISCIARO CONTRADE
Having worked for several years on Etna, Andrea Franchetti observed that different districts on the mountain produced different styles of wines. So, from 2008, he started to keep the wines separate, as “crus” or “contrade”. Each of the five wines comes from a different altitude, vines of varying great age and different lava flows. Quite a tapestry of terroirs. Depending on one’s point of view this is either thought-provoking or mindboggling but, rest-assured, the finished wines are of more than academic interest. Added to the mix for the first time, a white, also developed by identifying varied expressions produced in different parcels. With a roll of drums… Contrada Passochianche “PC” is released. Here, for simplicity, we start with the launch of the new white before presenting the five Nerello Mascalese contrade in ascending order of altitude.
CONTRADA “PC”
2018
Contrada “PC” Passochianche is the result of several years of Andrea’s observing how, year after year, parcels of chardonnay displayed different levels of maturation – sufficiently different for separating out and tracking progress during harvest and vinification. In a sense it was nature which threw down the gauntlet, with Contrada “PC” being the result. It is a minute parcel, 0.5ha of Chardonnay, planted on small terraces at between 870m and 950m. The age of vines is 18 years. Vinified in large natural oak, key to the character of the wine is extended lees ageing – 6 months- and 12 months ageing in bottle. Rich gold in colour, this offers a floral, tropical fruit blend, fruit salad on both the nose and palate, allied to richer notes of butterscotch (lees, not oak) The latter is concentrated and intense, rather heady with flowers and, most important a strident mineral seam which really lifts the finish. This wears its heart on its sleeve and at 13% is a balanced, approachable glass of loveliness.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2025
£260/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CONTRADA “C”
2018
Contrada “C” Chiappemacine, 100% Nerello Mascalese, is planted at 550m altitude. This lies on the edge of a lava flow, on a rather thin lava layer over limestone. It tends to exhibit a more rounded, ebullient style so, when tasting, the question is - is that due to altitude or soil? The age of the vineyard is 90 years – also a factor. 2018 is extremely aromatic, floral, rich in sweet fruit, rich in fresh berries, cherries and also dried fruits, with slightly smoky savoury notes. The palate is equally aromatic, silky, very pretty with good refreshment - all supported by stony minerals – lovely.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027+
£240/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CONTRADA “P”
Contrada “P” Porcaria, 100% Nerello Mascalese, is sited at 650m altitude. Andrea tells us that this is Etna’s most sought-after contrada, recognised for its plush style. The vines here are 90 years old. The 2018 makes an entrance with flamboyant red berried fruit – full intense fruit with clear mineral intensity. The shape of the wine varies from “C” on the palate, making a rather shy entrance before blossoming out to reveal ebullient fruit, lovely weight and plummy depth yet, all the while, composed and controlled, with attractive freshness - very good.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028+
£295/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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2018
21
CONTRADA “G”
2018
Contrada “G” Guardiola, 100% Nerello Mascalese, is planted at 800m altitude, on a lava flow from an eruption in 1947. The age of the vines is 100 years. This is a rich ruby, with garnet tones. It presents a well-balanced redfruited nose, raspberries and crystallised roses, echoed on the palate, adding a rather serious, grippy structure –something of a force with which to be reckoned.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2030
£260/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CONTRADA “S”
2018
Contrada “S” Sciaranuova, 100% Nerello Mascalese, is planted at 850-900m altitude. The name (nuova) alludes to what Andrea calls a “relatively new” (200 year old!) lava flow upon which this contrade is sited. The vines are 90 years old and production ridiculously low. The nose combines sweetly-perfumed berries, saline, rocky minerals and a certain savoury character. The palate is a juicy presentation of cherries and strawberry, with a volcanic mineral backdrop. Structured, this is elegant and finishes with flair. Surprisingly for Sicily, perhaps, the alcohol level in this vintage sits at 12.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2029
£260/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CONTRADA “R”
2018
Contrada “R” Rampante, 100% Nerello Mascalese, is planted at 1000m altitude, the highest of the contrade Importantly, the ancient lava on which these vines are planted has developed a slightly porous, oxidative quality, ordinarily making for a rather ethereal, perfumed character. The vines are over 100 years of age and the production a heavily restricted 17.6hl/ha – making for enormous complexity. This 2018 is violet/ruby in colour. The nose is iodine-rich and savoury initially before floral notes break through, the most ethereal of the contrade in this vintage. The palate combines good texture and acidity, the finish lifted with fresh herbs – very fine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 to 18
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028+
£260/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
22
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com | INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780 To Order LONDON 020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH 01875 321 921 HONG KONG +852 36 94 33 33 SINGAPORE +65 6221 8530 EMAIL sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK. 23
VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR 24
SANCABA
“High up in the hills above the small town of San Casciano dei Bagni, at 650m of altitude, lies a place where climate and soil provide ideal conditions for growing pinot noir.“
CARLO FRANCHETTI
Not far from Trinoro, Andrea’s cousin, Carlo Franchetti, acquired a 45 hectare estate on the border of Umbria and Lazio. This area had been popular since Roman times, with its natural beauty and thermal baths. It had no real history of winemaking however and, surrounded by forest, was pretty inhospitable territory. Today it houses remarkable and surprising Pinot Noir vines, cooled by north easterly winds and enjoying surprising diurnal temperature differences. A significant difference between day and night temperatures increases intensity. Another particular feature of Sancaba is its rapidly in the midday sun. Most red grapes would struggle to ripen here but Pinot Noir seems to acclimatise well to these conditions.
Carlo is now planting even higher, on the north side of the estate and he is sure that this will prove to be even more interesting. Sitting down with paper, ink and academic know-how, this ought not to work but, my goodness, it does. Great chance to become part of anew and exciting enterprise
2018
100% Pinot Nero (Noir). Delicate rose petal perfume, with chalky mineral overtones. The palate is darker; its forest fruits are underpinned by that same mineral tension and delineated by a briny seam. Fine, friable texture, with very delicate supple tannins, coming to a precise finish.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026+
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SANCABA PINOT NERO
£245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
25
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VINI FRANCHETTI | 2018 & 2019 VINTAGES, EN PRIMEUR
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