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Tardieu-Laurent, 2018 vintage En primeur

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TARDIEU-LAURENT RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK AND HONG KONG


“Serene in the northern Rhône, 2018 was a tiny Grenache crop in the south, but a very beautiful one…” MICHEL TARDIEU, JULY 2019


TARDIEU-LAURENT

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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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INTRODUCTION Michel and Bastien Tardieu are négociants with a difference. Working only with tiny volumes and focused wholly on terroir, this is perhaps the broadest range of top quality wine in the Rhône.


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Geographically, Tardieu-Laurent’s line-up spans 300 kilometres, from Côte-Rôtie in the north to Bandol in the south. This intricate patchwork of longstanding relationships with small, family-run growers must be a nightmare to juggle. Yet somehow they manage it… and the results are stunning. Fermentation happens in the appellations of origin, as required by law, following which the wines are matured in Tardieu-Laurent’s impressive facility in Lourmarin (pictured left), which sits among the rolling hills of Provence. Even by the generally high standards of wine regions, it is a beautiful setting. Corney & Barrow has been Tardieu-Laurent’s exclusive UK agent since 2002, just six years after this family operation was established. We now also represent them exclusively in Hong Kong.

GUY SEDDON November 2019

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BASTIEN TARDIEU

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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR


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2018 VINTAGE NOTES “Although yields on Grenache are historically low, the high quality of the remaining grapes and their juice owes much to a brilliant month of September.” BASTIEN TARDIEU, JULY 2019

2018 is a vintage of fabulous quality yet also, in Michel Tardieu’s words, “strange and paradoxical – a year that threw up many surprises.” Not least of these was the high mildew pressure in the southern Rhône which culminated in a wet June. In a sense, this was the crux of the season in the south, resulting in the very low Grenache crop to which Bastien Tardieu refers above. The 2018 growing season was an early one, due to a combination of warm weather and plentiful rain. This can be a perilous combination, bringing with it a risk of rot and mildew. Anecdotally, not since the 1960s had there been such intense disease pressure in the southern Rhône. As fate would have it, several clearer spells of weather, when vineyard treatments could be applied, fell on weekends. Many estates, lacking access to vineyard labour outside the working week, struggled to fight back effectively. Fortunately for us, Tardieu-Laurent’s growers are small-scale, mostly family operations, who were ready to spring into action at a moment’s notice.

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Nonetheless, late spring and early summer was, in Michel’s words, “technically complicated, demanding meticulous, tedious, even relentless work in the vineyards.” And then came that glorious month of September, when a high pressure system installed itself over the Rhône and the vines were bathed in sunlight and warmth. Hearing of this, I was reminded of Édouard Moueix’s remarks, that some 600km to the west in Pomerol, August had been the key to the 2018 vintage. Here in the Rhône, the battle appears to have been won the following month. Harvest was carried out amid cool, sunny weather, which provided near-perfect conditions. Picking was mercifully unhurried, which is perhaps especially crucial here, given the Tardieus’ jigsaw of vineyards and the logistical organisation required to oversee fermentation in situ, followed by transportation of the wines to Lourmarin for ageing.

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As mentioned, the southern Rhône was marked by the very low yields from Grenache, particularly acute in old vine parcels, which prevail throughout the Tardieu range. It is in years like this that the longstanding relationships forged by Michel and Bastien become so important, allowing them continued access to top quality grapes. As Michel says in his vintage summary, “Let [our vigneron partners] be thanked warmly here for their constancy.” In the northern Rhône, the weather was less drastic, meaning yields were more generous. 2018 in the north is described by Michel as “a fourth beautiful vintage.”

OLD VINES Several of the Tardieu-Laurent wines are labelled as ‘Vieilles Vignes’, or ‘VV’. While there is no fixed definition of this, Michel and Bastien consider an average of 40 years to be the minimum for a wine to be designated as such.

RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR


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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

2018 TASTING NOTES

WHITE - SOUTHERN RHÔNE

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CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE BLANC, LES BECS FINS

VACQUEYRAS BLANC

30% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Roussanne, 15% Marsanne, 10% Clairette. Around a quarter of the blend this year came from a new supplier, on sandy soils near the Dentelles de Montmirail. Zippy green citrus fruit and fresh, clipped acidity make for a benchmark easy drinking white Rhône. It spent six months in concrete, with no oak, before being given a very light filtration, with no fining. 13.5% abv. Bottled April 2019.

A new wine to the line-up this year. White grapes represent less than 5% of the plantings in Vacqueyras, making this something of a rarity. It comes from Les Garrigues, a clay-heavy soil with limestone gravels. Substantially proportioned, with notes of fennel and anise, it comes to a precise finish, with a parched bite of chalky minerality. 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette (which brings a lightness of touch), 20% Roussanne, 10% Bourbolenc. 13.5% abv. 4,000 bottles produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026

£130/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £120/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE BLANC GUY LOUIS

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES

Guy Louis is a blend of the northern and southern Rhône, which is uncommon. This is a hommage to Bastien’s grandfather and great-uncle, Guy and Louis respectively. 35% Grenache Blanc (of 70 years old), 20% Roussanne, 20% Marsanne, 15% Clairette and 10% Viognier. The declassified cru grapes include a third from CrozesHermitage. This is a more food-worthy iteration of white Côtes-du-Rhône, substantial and brightly stone-fruited, with a pleasing grip to it. 100% barrel fermented, it is then aged for eight months in new, one- and two-year old barrels. 14% abv. 9,000 bottles produced.

This comes from three sites around Châteauneuf. 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, 20% Clairette and 10% Bourboulenc, the latter two varieties bringing freshness, with the added benefit of moderating the overall alcohol content. Spicy and with a note of fine pastry on the nose. The palate opens expansively, exhibiting a winning combination of white peach fruit and fine grip. There is a beautiful saline precision to the finish. It is fermented in barrel with eight months’ lees contact, half of the Roussanne being aged in new oak barrels. 13.5% abv. Only 1,800 bottles were produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026

£85/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£195/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK


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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR


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RED - SOUTHERN RHÔNE CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE VILLAGES, LES BECS FINS This comes from the big, rounded gallets pebbles of the Gard. It is all destemmed. 60% Grenache (60+ years old) and 40% Syrah (30+ years old). An intense raspberryfruited nose leads into a decadently ripe palate of bitter cherry and damson. This is all about the supple, joyous fruit, with a hint of spices – thyme and rosemary – on the finish. Aged for a year in concrete tanks, with no fining or filtration. 14% abv. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £130/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE, GUY LOUIS This is from various southern Rhône villages, including Rasteau, Vacqueras and Beaumes-de-Venise, with the majority from Lirac, on the western side of the Rhône. 60% Grenache (50+ years old), 25% Syrah (40+ years old, from Rasteau) and 15% Mourvèdre (30-40 years old), all farmed organically. One third whole bunches were used. Violets and red cherry, with a gentle sweet-fruited demerera pliancy. It is aged for 12 months in one and two year-old barrels, then for six months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv. Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2029 £85/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE CUVÉE SPÉCIALE Spéciale due to its 100% whole bunch vinification, this comes from 70 year-old vines planted on the border of the Châteauneuf appellation, towards Courthézon. It is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% “others”, referring to the old centre of this vineyard which is planted with assorted varieties, long since forgotten. The best value example of southern Rhône Grenache out there? Excellent density of red and blue fruits, with thyme and rosemary, all lifted by the sappy whole-bunch character. This is all bottled in magnums (just 150 of them), as a global exclusive for Corney & Barrow! It spends eight months in two and three year-old barrels, then ten months in foudres. 14.5% abv. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £115/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

RASTEAU VIEILLES VIGNES 70% Grenache (the vines of which are a magnificent 80 years old), 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre (both ‘only’ 40 years old). A third of the grapes were left undestemmed and fermented as whole bunches. Rasteau is the warmest place in the southern Rhône, explaining why fortified wines are also made here. This has a softness of fruit and a luminosity, with bitter chocolate, cacao and beautifully supple tannins. Part of this comes from a site called La Montagne, at 300 metres of elevation. Aged for 12 months in one and two year-old barrels, then for eight months in foudres. 14.5% abv. 7,000 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2031 £105/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

VACQUEYRAS VIEILLES VIGNES

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If Rasteau is flirtatious, Vacqueyras is usually earthier and more leathered – it is the driest part of the southern Rhône. Half of this wine comes from sandy soils which, in combination with cool aspects, lend a welcome silkiness to the tannins. 70% Grenache (over 60 years old), 20% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah (both 40 years old). 50% whole bunch fermented. This is a very elegant expression of Vacqueyras, virile and full of life, with none of the rusticity sometime found here. This always needs long élevage and bottle ageing. 14.5% abv. 7,000 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2033 £115/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GIGONDAS A new wine in 2018. Bastien considers Gigondas to be “magic – the most interesting appellation in the southern Rhône, perhaps even more so than Châteauneuf-duPape” (although he concedes the tannins in Gigondas are never quite as fine as those of Châteauneuf). This comes from four plots and is a half whole-bunch fermented. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, the vines ranging from 40 to over 100 years old. Dark red berry fruit, with a spicy menthol lift, Provençal herbs and bitter chocolate. The palate is gratifyingly dense and luxurious – a warming, cosseting wine. Aged for 10 months in one and two year-old barrels and then 10 months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv. 7,000 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2031 £115/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK


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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

GIGONDAS VIEILLES VIGNES

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE VIEILLES VIGNES

This is the Gigondas cuvée of old. It comes from five plots in the Dentelles foothills. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, 40 to 100+ years old. Two thirds wholebunch fermented. Brilliantly bright red cherry fruit on the nose, espresso, menthol, fresh mint, garrigue, citrus peel and orange blossom. On the palate, very supple, ripe tannin, with blueberry and wild blackcurrant fruit. Aged for 12 months in one and two year-old barrels and then 12 months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv. 6,000 bottles produced.

This comes from five old-vine plots. It is 80% Grenache (80-100 years old), 10% Syrah (50 years old) and 10% Mourvèdre (60 years old). A half whole-bunch vinified. This is a step up in precision, as well as in volume and power. It captures wonderfully the refined majesty of Châteauneuf, that sense of textural nuance alongside forthright muscle. Pure raspberry fruit with a garrigue herbal edge. Aged for 12 months in one year-old barrels, then for 12 months in foudres. 14.5% abv. 6,000 bottles produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2034

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037

£135/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£215/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£145/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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BANDOL

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CUVÉE SPÉCIALE

“The Bordeaux of the South”, as it is known in the Rhône, this comes from clay-limestone soils. 95% Mourvèdre and 5% Grenache, over 50 years old. This is the last wine tasted in the Tardieu-Laurent line-up – and there is a reason for that… Glass-staining ruby (almost black!) colour, this is always a big wine. The nose is something of a bruiser, but the palate is surprisingly deft, ingratiating and melded. This sits totally apart, exuding liquorice and herbal loveliness. Aged for 24 months in one and two year-old barrels. 14% abv. 3,000 bottles produced.

Made from century-old vines at the base of La Crau on sandy soils, this is effectively a Grenache-only Châteauneuf (it contains 1% “other varieties”). 100% whole-bunch fermented. Surprisingly deep ruby in colour, it has lifted bitter cherry fruit on the nose, untamed and excitingly wild, with blueberry, violet and garrigue. On the palate, there is a disarming softness of raspberry, with super-fine, detailed tannins and a fine grippy definition to the finish. Sweet redcurrant persists on the long, long finish. Very low yields thanks to that perilous spring – just 15 hl/ha. 14.5% abv. 5,000 bottles produced. Wonderful wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2032 £125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037 £235/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE This comes from four plots in Châteauneuf and is 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. The Grenache and Cinsault are 60 to 80 years old, the Syrah 40 years old. Half whole-bunch vinified. Violets and desiccated raspberry fruit on the nose, with sous-bois and wild strawberry. The palate is admirably fine and detailed, with fresh acidity. The difference here is the intricate quality of the tannins, which add a rather aristocratic finesse to the long, focussed finish. 14.5% abv. 8,000 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035 £175/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£245/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK


To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

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TARDIEU-LAURENT

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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR


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WHITE - NORTHERN RHÔNE CROZES-HERMITAGE VIEILLES VIGNES

CONDRIEU

100% Marsanne, from three different sites, with an average age of over 50 years. Honeysuckle and quince, with yellow flowers on the nose. The palate is gently honeyed and peachy, with a fleshy generosity and juicy acidity. A really welcome addition to the Tardieu family, which sits nicely alongside the meatier Saint-Péray. This spends 10 months in a combination of new and used barrels, then is very lightly filtered, with no fining. 14% abv. 3,000 bottles produced.

100% Viognier, from four plots in Condrieu: Paton, Chanson, La Bonnette and Malleval. Peachy and with a sheeny grapiness, this is brightly green-fruited and with pithy grapefruit and excellent freshness. Quite atypical this year but, according to Bastien “the best vintage for Condrieu”. He noted that with increasingly warm seasons, the best Condrieu sites are proving to be the north-facing ones, rather than the more renowned southern aspects. Aged for 10 months in new and one year-old barrels. 14% abv. The vibrant acidic backbone here is explained by the relatively late ripening, caused by higher yields than average. 6,000 bottles produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £135/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025

SAINT-PÉRAY VIEILLES VIGNES

£200/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Bastien Tardieu calls this “the little Hermitage Blanc”. 50% Marsanne (50-100 years old) and 50% Roussanne (over 40 years old). A wine brimming with personality, this has a smoky, sauvage nose and a meaty, smoky bacon streak on the palate. A rich, complex wine, this is an absolute standout in the Tardieu line-up. This is aged for 12 months in a mixture of new and one year old barrels. 13.5% abv. 3,500 bottles have been produced, more than average this year.

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Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £135/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

HERMITAGE BLANC 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne. The Marsanne is over 50 years old, whilst the Roussanne is over 40 years old. Pastry and hay on the nose, with bright citrussy green fruit and a phenomenal power and persitence on the palate, yet all couched in a delicate, nimble body. They say that the older white Hermitage gets, the younger it looks. Bastien calls this “our Montrachet”. This is now fermented in barrel, then transferred to Stockinger Austrian foudres, which have become one of the winemaking accessories du jour (rightly so, giving what Bastien terms “sharpness”). 14% abv. 4,000 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028 £250/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £260/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH

01875 321 921 HONG KONG

+852 36 94 33 33 SINGAPORE

+65 6221 8530 EMAIL

sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.


TARDIEU-LAURENT

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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

RED - NORTHERN RHÔNE

SAINT-JOSEPH VIEILLES VIGNES

CROZES-HERMITAGE VIEILLES VIGNES

100% Syrah and Serine, Serine being an ancient clone of Syrah, which is more oval-shaped and with lower anthocyanin (colour) content than Syrah. The former vines are over 60 years old, the latter 100-120 years old! A half whole bunch fermentation. Classic Saint-Joseph nose of pepper and violets. On the palate, this is pure, delicate, and ephemeral. The purple fruit of the palate is insinuatingly fine, with supple tannins. This is a musthave. Aged for a year in barrel, then eight months in foudres. 13.5% abv. 9,000 bottles produced.

100% Syrah, from 60 year-old vines. There is one third whole bunch fermentation here. This comes from four sites: Larnage, Battis, Gervans and Coteaux de Mercurol. Peppery and delicately uplifting on the nose, morphing into a fresh, spicy, moreishly juicy palate, with fine tannins and a hint of leather, the violet perfume coming back in on the finish. Following fermentation, it is aged for 12 months in new and one year-old barrels, then spends six months in foudres. 13.5% abv. 3,000 bottles produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2029 £145/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH

01875 321 921 HONG KONG

+852 36 94 33 33 SINGAPORE

+65 6221 8530 EMAIL

sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2029 £120/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £130/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK


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CORNAS COTEAUX

CÔTE-RÔTIE VIEILLES VIGNES

Cornas is known as the “vin noir”, and you can see why as soon as you pour it – inky and glass-staining, with a bright purple rim. 100% Syrah/Serine, 60 to 100 years old. A half whole bunch fermentation. Pure and red berried, this feels much more primary and in need of bottle age. Some smoky bacon and meaty notes. This is aged for 24 months in new and one year-old barrels. 13.5% abv. 3,000 bottles produced.

All from the Côte Brune, this was a new entrant last year to the Tardieu-Laurent line-up, due to a new supplier with vines in the prime vineyards of Landonne (in the oldest part!), Lancement and Chavaroche. The vines here are 60-70 years old on average. 100% whole bunch vinified. A drop-dead gorgeous nose of fine peppery spice and blackcurrant, I recommend this to everyone who loves either the Northern Rhône or top Burgundy. The palate is astonishingly light on its feet, with a building sense of power and clear ageing potential. Fine, grippy, muscular yet refined tannins and irony minerality. 4,500 bottles produced.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035 £170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2029 – 2041

CORNAS VIEILLES VIGNES

£285/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £295/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

If Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage are the go-to northern Rhône appellations, Cornas is the insider’s choice. 100% Serine/Syrah, ranging from 80 to over 100 years old. 50% whole bunch fermented. Very dense ruby colour. Peppery and easier to appreciate at this stage than the Coteaux (somewhat counter-intuitively!), this is a big wine which needs patience. Smoky bacon and freshly ground coffee, bitter chocolate and fresh mint. Complex wine, will be great! This comes from mid-slope plots of Les Eygats and Patou. Aged for 24 months in new and one year-old barrels. 1,200 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037 £280/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

HERMITAGE This comes from five plots, including Le Meal. 100% Serine and Syrah, from 60 year old vines. Two thirds whole bunch vinification. Black cherry, menthol and peppery spice, with bitter chocolate, this is immediately riper and more powerful than the Côte-Rôtie. On the palate, there is amplitude and flesh, cassis and very fine tannins, with a fruit coating. The wine is aged for a year in new and one year-old barrels, then spends another year in foudres. 14% abv. 4,000 bottles produced. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037 £285/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £295/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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RHÔNE VALLEY, 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

CONTACT US Our Locations

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LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com

NORTH OF ENGLAND Sedbury Stables, Sedbury Hall Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 5LQ T +44 (0)1748 828 640 sedburyorders@corneyandbarrow.com

EAST ANGLIA Belvoir House, High Street Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com

EDINBURGH Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland EH37 5UB T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com

AYR 8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com

HONG KONG Unit D, 6th Floor 9 Queen’s Road Central Hong Kong T +852 36 94 33 33 hongkong@corneyandbarrow.com SINGAPORE

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