THE WINES OF ROBERTO CONTERNO CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO & AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI THE 2026 RELEASES EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM & HONG KONG
ROBERTO CONTERNO TASTING GRAPES AHEAD OF HARVEST
GRAND DESIGNS? The above can be characterised as “a large, ambitious, and detailed plan or scheme for building, organising, or achieving something complex”. Well, I think that covers all that Roberto does. From the two leading estates to the two restaurants and all the while constructing a vineyard robot. Not to mention the ski he designed. As you can probably imagine, you come out of a day with Roberto feeling rather like an underachiever. Adam Brett-Smith and I tasted in a different format on this visit. We did both sets of wines in their respective regions. In both instances, over a meal at one of Roberto’s restaurants. This was an alternative approach, but given the wines were already bottled, it made some sense. It also offers the advantage of seeing the wine in its natural habitat, so to speak, and being able to revisit them over a period of time. As you may know, or will become obvious, I am a Nebbiolo obsessive. I feel Nebbiolo is one of the varieties that best copes with the changing climate, and there are a myriad of styles to enjoy. I would urge you to get involved with this joyous grape, and that means Piedmont, and Piedmont has to mean Conterno. Oh, and Roberto has become a grandfather — possibly the most energetic one I know! Enjoy the offer.
WILL HARGROVE, HEAD OF FINE WINE SEPTEMBER 2026
INTRODUCTION | 1
AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI “Simply put, Conterno has very few peers when it comes to exceptionally high quality and consistency.” ANTONIO GALLONI It was extremely exciting when we first heard that Roberto Conterno was buying Nervi in 2018. The estate had been on my radar before then because of previous tastings. I liked the wines very much and was sufficiently intrigued and impressed by them. However, that crucial, human link just wasn’t there yet. In 2008, Roberto expanded the great Cantina Giacomo Conterno estate by acquiring part of the Cerretta vineyard followed by Arione in 2015 — he had clearly been looking for opportunities. Those of you who know Roberto will understand that detail is his thing, whether in the vineyard, the winery, or adding to the family’s holdings. It is becoming more than something of a cliché these days to say that great wines are “grown and not made”, but it is very clearly the case here. The combination of the soil, aspect, light, and altitude is something of a perfect storm for the Nebbiolo grape. This offer features five wines, all made from Nebbiolo. Gattinara 2023 is joined by two 2022 single-vineyard bottlings — Valferana & Molsino.
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History Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi is Gattinara’s oldest operating winery. Luigi’s son, Italo, expanded the company by purchasing vineyards and increasing their cellar capacity. Italo died in 1975 with no direct heirs, leaving his shares in Nervi to other relatives. The company was then sold to Germano Bocciolone in 1991, a steel manufacturing entrepreneur, who embarked on a massive investment programme, including a stainless steel vinification plant, 40 new Slavonian oak barrels and the replanting of the Molsino vineyard. His sons sold the majority share to the Astrup family in 2011. Erling Astrup had asked Roberto Conterno for his opinion before buying, and after tasting older vintages, Conterno said it was wholly impossible not to produce great wine here. In April 2018, Roberto Conterno acquired 90% of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Between early 2019 and mid2021, Roberto embarked on and completed a brilliant re-organisation and rebuilding of all the winemaking, maturation and cellaring facilities, as well as the addition of a new restaurant. As you would expect, it is not just any restaurant — strongly recommended and under an hour from Milan Malpensa. The restaurant has a superb team and two wine lists (Contero wines and everything else — including a great range from far and wide).
NERVI HISTORY | 3
THE VINEYARDS A series of seismic events has given the Gattinara area a unique soil structure. 280 million years ago, the Valsesia supervolcano erupted, creating volcanic rocks. Then, when Africa collided with Europe to form Monte Rosa 220 million years later, these rocks were forced to the surface as gravel. Most of this was washed away over time, except for that of Gattinara’s higher slopes. This has created a unique mineral-rich terroir. The gravel is rich in iron, manganese, zinc and copper. In addition, the high clay content — paralleled by Serralunga d’Alba — and the absence of chalk, create acidic soil conditions, which are perfectly suited to Nebbiolo. Nestled in the foothills of Monte Rosa, the vineyards are protected from northerly winds. There are 28 hectares (ha) under vine: Molsino, at 12ha, is Alto Piemonte’s finest south-facing amphitheatre. 7-8ha would ordinarily be considered for the Vigna Molsino bottling. The altitude ranges from 350-420m. Valferana is 8ha in size and is particularly high in iron and manganese, up to six times that of other Nebbiolo-producing regions. Around 3-4ha would, at the moment, be considered for the Vigna Valferana bottling. The remainder is for the Gattinara. The altitude is 320m. Garavoglie is 7ha and was replanted in 2015 with 13 different Spanna clones, ensuring the original Nebbiolo clones of Alto Piemonte remain an integral part of Nervi vineyards. Casaccie is the last site, covering approximately 1ha. Pruning and harvesting at all sites are carried out by hand.
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THE VINEYARDS | 5
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THE WINERY The single-vineyard wines — Vigna Valferana and Vigna Molsino — are gently destemmed and crushed. Fermentation is in truncated conical oak vats with native yeasts. Maceration lasts three to four weeks, followed by ageing in old wood for at least 40 months. Cask sizes vary, with some up to 76hl. For the Gattinara, similarly, gentle destemming and crushing are followed by fermentation. The ageing process here lasts 30 months in large, old oak casks or botti. More than 100 years of wine production has shown that Nebbiolo tannins benefit from a long and controlled ageing process. For this reason, ageing is longer than required by the Gattinara DOCG. As Luigi Nervi said, “Nectar in tempore” — perfection with time. Two other wines are produced, the Rosato and a sparkling Nebbiolo called Jefferson, but do not be lulled into thinking these are in any way frivolous. As those of you who have drunk them will know, these are superb!
THE WINERY | 7
THE WINES Il ROSATO 2025
A small disclaimer here: I drink this more than any other rosé. Before mentioning the 2025 specifically, I thought it’d be interesting to report on a bottle of the 2020 that Adam (Brett-Smith) and I drank with Roberto and his assistants Stéphanie and Elisa. The 2020 was more copper than pink but had a lovely salty, tangy finish and a delicious savoury character. Although I don’t want to suggest this is a wine to tuck away, there is certainly no rush in enjoying it. I have had the 2022, 2023 and 2024 vintages recently and loved them all. So, to 2025; there is lusciousness to this, allied to a lovely acidity and that hallmark Nebbiolo texture. I repeat my suggestion to chill this, then let the bottle (for the brief time it lasts) come up in temperature a bit. When cool/cold, it is a cracking rosé; when at “Burgundy” temperature, it is a playful Nebbiolo. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026—2032 £95/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
JEFFERSON 2021 (DISGORGED APRIL 2026) VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITA, ROSATO, METODO CLASSICO
This is the sparkling wine of the Conterno line up. It is 100% Nebbiolo. 2021 is the third vintage in the new livery, with 2017 and 2018 being the first two releases under Roberto’s tenure. This has residual sugar of 2.5g/L and can therefore be classified as zéro dosage or dosaggio zero. The 2021 was disgorged in April this year (2026). The 2021 is a cracking wine with a wild, redfruited edge balanced by the salinity and briny character that Nebbiolo adds. I am loving the 2019 now and can’t wait to see how it ages in the short- to medium-term. Great on its own, or with food. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 – 18+ Recommended drinking from 2027—2035+ £300/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £130/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
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NERVI TASTING NOTES | 9
GATTINARA
GATTINARA VIGNA VALFERANA
2023
2022
A barrel sample, but only just, as this was due to be bottled a week after our visit. Roberto never likes to waffle when it comes to vintage reports, etc; he described the 2023 vintage as normal in Gattinara. The wine shows amazingly — pure red fruit with a grey pepper and slate-like background. The overriding impression is gorgeously voluptuous fruit, with structure to keep everything in check.
Hard to follow the Molsino; Roberto was very keen to know our opinion on the two crus. On the day, Adam and I were both in the Molsino camp. I could tell, although he was giving little away, that Roberto was somehow a Valferana voter. The purity of Nebbiolo here may be superior, but the outrageously plush Molsino was hard to see past. This Valferana, as is usual, is more about the soil and the texture. Whichever was better, you need to own both, but then being in sales, I would say that...
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2028—2035+
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2029—2036+
£259/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £668/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£450/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £1,075/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
GATTINARA VIGNA MOLSINO 2022
Note to the future — as an aside, we tasted the recently bottled 2023 crus and I can safely say the class and joy of the Gattinara 2023 shows through in spades.
Both the 2022 crus were bottled a year ago. There is nothing in wine law that means Roberto needs to release them later than the village Gattinara, he simply likes them with a little more age. This has both a depth and a really attractive, alluring, plushness to it. Silken, no, cashmere-like. This may well be the best yet from Nervi-Conterno. Bravo! Corney & Barrow Score 18 – 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2028—2036+ £450/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £1,075/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
TASTING GUIDE Our tasting notes provide full details, but at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown, it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Fiat with a Ferrari, other than that they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.
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AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE IN THE UK AND HONG KONG SENSORY WINE GLASS (PICTURED ABOVE)
£340.50 INC VAT PER 6 GLASSES
SYMPHONY SPARKLING WINE GLASS £363 INC VAT PER 6 GLASSES
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CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO History Representing the third generation, Roberto Conterno is very much at the helm of this legendary estate. Roberto has a palpable love and profound respect for his inherited terroir. In 1974, Giovanni Conterno, Roberto’s late father, undertook the fortuitous and massively courageous investment in the 14ha monopole of Cascina Francia, in the commune of Serralunga d’Alba. At 400 metres above sea level, it is planted with 4.6ha of seriously good Barbera and 9.4ha of Nebbiolo — an outstanding site. It is difficult to emphasise the foresight this required. The Barolo trade was far more orientated towards négociants than growers in those days. In 2008, Roberto stamped his mark on the family history by acquiring three hectares of Cerretta, one hectare of very lovely, forward Barbera, and two hectares of Nebbiolo, also in Serralunga d’Alba. A five-minute drive separates the two vineyards. Then, in 2015, he added the stunning, highly prized, nine-hectare vineyard of Arione, continuous with Cascina Francia, to the family holdings. Increasing and advancing the estate for the second time, under Roberto’s tenure, this exhibits tremendous commitment to the future by the Conterno family and is a major coup.
CONTERNO HISTORY | 13
BARBERA 2024 VINTAGE I feel that the best Barberas — and Roberto’s are definitively that — have a specific place in any genuine Piedmont wine lover’s heart. A little like Gamay to Pinot Noir, or Syrah to Grenache, they are the darker, juicier side of the coin. The 2024 vintage was, to quote Roberto, “less warm, fresher with a bit more rain”. The joy of this being (like in 2023) that the picking, typically 4-6 weeks before Nebbiolo, could be carried out as desired; there was no stress or rush.
BARBERA VIGNA CERRETTA 2024
Both Barberas were bottled at the end of May 2026. I am always so pleased and impressed that the difference between the two Barberas is every bit as transparent as the same sites planted in Nebbiolo. This Cerretta Barbera has a beautiful nose of cherry, two-thirds red to one-third black. The fruit’s vibrancy and lift make it especially enticing. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 – 18 Recommended drinking from 2027—2033+ £265/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BARBERA VIGNA FRANCIA 2024
In breaking news, next year’s 2025 Barbera Francia will be the last one for a little bit, probably until 2030 or so. This is due to the vast majority being replanted. This wine to me IS the greatest Barbera. As always, deeper and darker than the Cerretta, more iron, more salt, darker fruit character and a savage moreishness. There is more than a nod to the northern Rhône, but all with a classically Italian acidity. Buy it. Corney & Barrow Score 18 – 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2029—2036+ £265/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
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CONTERNO TASTING NOTES | 15
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NEBBIOLO 2023 VINTAGE NEBBIOLO D’ALBA VIGNA ARIONE 2023
Roberto’s holdings in Arione, which run contiguously to the south and east end of Francia, were purchased in 2015. The 5.8ha vineyard spans the boundary of the Barolo region. With 3.6ha designated as Barolo Arione (see the Barolo section) and 2.2ha designated as Nebbiolo d’Alba. The 2015 of this wine was only made in magnums, strictly for charity auctions. From 2019, it has been released for sale and goes from strength to strength. A recent bottle of the 2021 was a joy. So, to the 2023. This vintage feels faultless. Great open fruit, a backbone that is properly integrated and lovely freshness. This Arione is lifted and dances well. The sensual red fruit belies a serious core. Special. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2028—2036 £595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £730/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
CONTERNO TASTING NOTES | 17
BAROLO 2022 VINTAGE “At the other end of the spectrum, several growers turned out superb wines across their entire ranges. These include Giacomo Conterno (amongst others), who made some of the finest wines in recent memory.” ANTONIO GALLONI
The 2022 Growing Season I commented last year (when discussing the 2021 vintage) that there seemed to be a split across Europe between a cooler, wetter north and a warmer, sunnier south. Well, in 2022, there again appeared to be a difference. Not so much of cool and wet, but of excessive dryness. The Aubert de Villaine adage that “there is no such thing as greater and lesser vintages, just easier and more difficult vintages” would appear very apt. The season itself started early as the previous winter (‘21/’22) was both dry and devoid of snow. This became one of the season’s defining issues. The 2021 crop avoided stress because it followed a wet winter, unlike the 2022s. The vineyard work proved crucial. Cooler soils with more clay (Cerretta) and sites with older vines and more elevation (Francia and Arione) did better. Roberto’s fanaticism (and it is just that) over cleanliness, precision and selection all paid off to produce some of the best wines of the vintage.
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BAROLO CERRETTA 2022
I just wish there was so much more of this wine. Now into its 15th rendition (two as Langhe Nebbiolo — for the geeks out there). This has a plush cherry and cranberry-fruited nature. The tannins are gorgeous and present, always a different shape due to the clay influence. A lovely long, fresh finish. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2028—2038+ £800/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £310/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK £655/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BAROLO ARIONE 2022
I am starting to get a real “thing” about Arione. Can a wine be both refined and hedonistic? The refinement is from the chiselled nature of the fruit, so poised. The hedonistic element from the pure drinkability, even now. This is some wine. Corney & Barrow Score 18 – 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2029—2040+ £800/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £310/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK £655/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BAROLO FRANCIA 2022
And so to the “daddy” of the three. Francia 2022 is bold, pure, with great stuffing and texture. It has some of the comehither-ness of Arione, but with more backbone and broader shoulders. Quintessential Francia, not to be missed. Corney & Barrow Score 18 – 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2030—2042+ £800/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £310/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK £655/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
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BAROLO MONFORTINO 2020 I have looked back at what I wrote when we released the 2020 Barolos, and I believe that what was relayed then bears repeating: I asked Roberto for a comment on the trio of 2019, 2020 & 2021 from a Nebbiolo standpoint. His answer was an interesting one. He likened the trio to the 1999, 2000 & 2001 vintages. The thinking being: 1999/2019 — Structured — therefore more traditional. 2000/2020 — Elegance — more open earlier and a little plusher. 2001/2021 — A combination of the above. Monfortino is a wine only produced in the very best years. Rather tellingly, it was made in all of the above vintages.
BAROLO MONFORTINO 2020
Power and precision with no lack of charm. A real depth here with open fruit after a tight “clenched” beginning. The core of fruit is dense but not heavy; the structure is profound but worn lightly. The drinking window threatens to be vast. Monfortino is always one of the hardest wines to write about and describe. For a true standardbearer of a region to be this good is an achievement. Stellar. Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2030—2045+ £1,695/CASE OF 3 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £1,180/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK £2,470/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
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THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order. Due to the huge increase in demand for these wines over recent years, we will have to allocate all the wines in this offer. This will be done as quickly and as fairly as possible. We will do our best to accommodate newer customers, however, priority will be given to customers who have supported wines from Cantina Giacomo Conterno over time and Nervi more recently. • • •
Roberto Conterno and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator. The wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK or Hong Kong only. Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal, as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution.
May we please have your order by Tuesday 22nd September. Allocations will be completed by Monday 28th September. Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice, and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment. As already outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage or Hong Kong delivery only. May we please request that invoices be settled within the usual terms. In the interest of being fair, we reserve the right to reallocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help.
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