Issuu

CLOS DE TART 2018 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK

â€œPowerful, intense and fleshy, whilst remaining incredibly elegant with soft and silky tannins.â€? Alessandro Noli, on his 2018 Clos de Tart

Photo credit - S Chapuis

The on-the-ground team. From left to right, Vincent Gaujard, Claire Magne, Arthur Blanchot, Jean-Louis Charbonnier, Alessandro Noli

GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI PASCAL, CHARLES AND FLORENCE LACHAUX

OFF TO A FLYING START The first full vintage under the new ownership is an effortlessly stunning statement of intent... After joining the domaine in March 2019, winemaker Alessandro Noli immediately inherited the tasks of bottling the 2017 vintage, finishing élevage of the 2018 vintage and overseeing the construction of a new, state-of-the-art cuverie. The gleaming cuverie (vat room), with its sleek dark walls and polished chrome, has something of the Bond villain’s lair about it. As of the 2019 vintage, its fifteen bespoke oak vats and five stainless steel tanks have brought precision vinification to what was already a highly intricate vineyard approach (there were 27 separate plots at last count). Fortunately, Alessandro has the might of Artémis Domaines behind him. Run by Managing Director Frédéric Engerer, this French wine group’s enviable collection includes Château Latour, Domaine d’Eugénie and Château Grillet. Such backing must make Clos de Tart’s ambitious projects in both the vineyard and cellars feel reassuringly achievable, even at this time of global crisis. Clos de Tart, one of only five grands crus monopoles in Burgundy*, was acquired in 2017 by the wine arm of François Pinault’s Groupe Artémis, which became only the fourth owner since the estate belonged to the nuns of Nôtre-Dame de Tart in the 12th century. 2018 is the domaine’s first certified organic vintage. It has been incredible to see the upward quality trajectory of Clos de Tart since our first vintage as exclusive UK agent in 2007. We are more excited than ever about the wines coming from this supremely privileged vineyard and are proud to work with the impressive team of Frédéric Engerer and Sales and Marketing Director Jean Garandeau. Photo credit - B Braastad

GUY SEDDON June 2020 *Alongside Burgundy’s grands crus monopoles of Clos de Tart, Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, La Romanée and La Grande Rue, are France’s two great AOP monopoles, Coulée de Serrant in the Loire and the northern Rhône’s Château-Grillet. The latter, also owned by Artémis Domaines, was Alessandro Noli’s previous place of work.

Photo credit - S Chapuis

HISTORY Originally called La Forge, the vineyard was acquired in 1141 by the nuns of Nôtre-Dame de Tart. The perimeter wall was likely built in the 15th century, enabling the vineyard to be called a clos. Clos de Tart was confiscated from the Church following the 1789 French Revolution, then acquired uncontested at auction by local wine merchant Nicolas-Joseph Marey. At the same auction, the Marey family, later Marey-Monge, bought the entire Romanée-Saint-Vivant vineyard. The second change in ownership took place during the depression of the 1930s. The Marey-Monge family sold Clos de Tart at auction to the Mommessin family in 1932, for 400,000 francs. The Mommessins ran a successful négociant house in Mâcon, which was eventually sold to Boisset in the 1990s. Jules Lavalle’s 1855 Plan Topographique of the Côte d’Or named one Tête de Cuvée vineyard in Morey-Saint-Denis: Clos de Tart. In part thanks to this, Clos de Tart was bestowed with Burgundy’s highest status in the grand cru decree of 1939. Following its ascension to grand cru status in 1939, the Clos’ wall was extended to include some adjoining vines. In 1965-6, an additional 0.278 hectares was added from Bonnes-Mares: vines which, despite being in ChambolleMusigny, fell within the walls of the Clos.

THE VINEYARD Clos de Tart is the only grand cru monopole in Morey-Saint-Denis. Behind the white limestone walls of the domaine, sloping up and away from the Route des Grands Crus, are the 7.53 hectares of Clos de Tart. The gently sloping vineyard faces east, making it something of an anomaly in the village. The vines run north-south, perpendicular to the slope rather than up and down. As well as giving a unique sun exposure, this protects against erosion. Although this is one contiguous vineyard, the soil composition is sufficiently intricate to vinify eight separate cuvées, from no fewer than 27 different plots (and there will be even more from next year). These are blended around a month before bottling. The claylimestone soils come from three distinct geological eras.

The first soil type is calcaires à entroques, loose limestonerich fossilised marine animals. Second is white marl, a deep layer of which runs through the mid-slope section. Finally, there is a layer of very hard, compacted Prémeaux limestone. The cuvées change every year, but there is some correlation with these soil types.

The average vine age is over 60 years, with some vines being over 100 years old. The domaine has a nursery at the bottom of the village which provides new vines when replanting is necessary. There are 72 clonal lines at the Clos now (a lot!) Planting density is high: 11,000 vines per hectare on average, with the younger vines having been planted at 12,500. The resulting competition for nutrients encourages the roots to dig deeper. Only the five best bunches per vine are retained during green harvesting in August. The Clos has practised organic viticulture since 2015, with 2018 being the first organic certified vintage, ahead of biodynamic certification, which is expected later in 2020. Production tends to be 23 to 30 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha), although the last three vintages have been relatively plentiful following the smaller 2015. In 2016, the yield was 35 hl/ha – the domaine’s largest crop since 1999. In both 2017 and 2018, it was a similarly respectable 32 hl/ha. 2018 is the first certified organic vintage at Clos de Tart.

The domaine buildings and the church seen from the vineyard, looking south towards Bonnes Mares.

Photo credit - S Chapuis

The map below shows the eight cuvĂŠes of the 2018 Clos de Tart.

THE CELLAR 10

Although cellar work will always play second fiddle to the vineyard here, it has been overhauled impressively by the new team. As mentioned, the domaine has recently finished a complete renovation of the cuverie. The 2019 vintage (next year’s release) was the first to be housed in its fifteen wooden fermentation vats, made by Taransaud and five stainless steel tanks, used for blending and settling. The grapes receive one week of pre-fermentation maceration. Whole bunches are employed, the proportion varying in accordance with the vintage conditions – in 2018, 65% of the crop was vinified as whole bunches. A week of fermentation, by natural yeasts, is followed by a further week of post-fermentation maceration. Extraction is very gentle. Pigeage (punching-down) and remontage (pumping-over) are used sparingly to aerate the grape must and extract phenolic content. Foot treading was used in 2018 – the gentlest possible method of pigeage. The individual cuvées are aged separately for 19 months in oak, typically 80% new, with the remaining 20% being one year old. The majority of the wine is aged in 228 litre French oak pièces, although larger oak vessels have been introduced in recent years. Blending takes place one month before bottling, which is still done by hand.

Photo credit - B Braastad

THE 2018 GROWING SEASON THE YEAR IN NUMBERS Bud-burst 16th April --Flowering 1st June --Veraison 27th July

Aside from a very cold week in March when temperatures plunged to -9°C, winter and spring were very mild in 2018. That said, bud-burst occurred on 16th April, about 6-8 days later than normal. These warm temperatures were accompanied by significant rainfall: October to March saw 142mm more rainfall than average, culminating in 15 days of non-stop rain between mid-May and mid-June (164mm). The warm, wet weather encouraged very quick vegetative growth and required attentive work in the vineyard. Amazingly under such conditions, powdery mildew (oidium) was avoided, although downy mildew brought significant disease pressure. Flowering was early, quick and even, reaching mid-point on 30th May and finishing on 1st June. From mid-June onwards, it stopped raining and turned very dry, with temperatures remaining high. Only 47mm of rain fell in July and 13mm in August.

Harvest 30th August – 3rd September --32 hl/ha yield --65% whole bunches

Thanks to plentiful water reserves in the soil, vine growth continued and by 27th July, half of the berries had changed from green to black (véraison). Grape ripening concluded in August without hindrance, despite the hot and, indeed, often scorching weather. The harvest was early: picking started on a record-breaking 30th August and continued non-stop until 3rd September. Alessandro Noli spoke of the berries’ “beautiful aromas, thick skins and ripe tannins”. The final yield of 32 hl/ha was the same as in 2017, although lower than 2016 (35 hl/ ha) and higher than 2015 (22 hl/ha). Nine separate cuvées were vinified, spending an average of 18 days in vat. Only four punch-downs were carried out in 2018, all by traditional foot treading. Malolactic fermentation took place quicker than usual, in the two months following pressing. Normally this occurs between April and June in the year following the harvest. The wines were bottled in spring 2020.

TASTING NOTES CLOS DE TART, GRAND CRU MONOPOLE Clos de Tart’s average vine age is now over 60 years old, the most ancient vines being centenarians. Deep ruby colour in the glass, with rose petal and violet perfume on the nose and a hint of soy. The palate is wonderfully supple on the silky entry, with dense raspberry and blueberry fruit and then an exotic spice lift from the 60% whole bunch fermentation. The tannins are substantial yet intricate, lattice-like, building on the palate to exert a firm grip on the finish. The sweetness and amplitude of fruit is set off wonderfully by the crisp acidity. A deeply impressive, powerful Clos de Tart, draped in silken finery. 80% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2040+ £2,865/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £2,880/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK £2,120/Case of 1 jeroboam, in bond UK

LA FORGE DE TART, MOREY-SAINT-DENIS PREMIER CRU

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS DE CLOS DE TART

As always, this is made from the three plots planted in 1999, 2005 and 2011, making its oldest vines nearly 20 years old in 2018. From 2020, Alessandro Noli is going to vinify the 1999 plot separately, to see if it is ready for the grand vin. Sweet red cherry and confit raspberry on the nose, with dark peppery spice and a fresh mint lift. The palate is upbeat and red berried, with substantial matter, balanced by delightfully fresh acidity. This is more red fruited than usual, supple and playful. The new team seems to have brought a lightness of touch, without sacrificing any of its seriousness.

A new entrant for 2018 and the first time the domaine has made a village-level wine. This is made from a selection of young vines (four years old on average) across the Clos – typically where old vines have been replaced. As such, it provides an excellent cross-section of the Clos’ personality. Deep ruby colour. Impressively dense, violet flavours, with a rich sucrosity of fruit. An opulent style, really rather amazing for such young vines. Just 500 litres (700 bottles) have been made – future vintages will likely be reserved for restaurants so snap up this rarity now while you can!

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2030

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 - 2028

£1,025/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

£245/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK

ALLOCATION PROCESS To order, please call 020 7265 2430 (London) or 01875 321 921 (Edinburgh). Please bear in mind that: • Clos de Tart’s and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer as a consumer, rather than as a speculator. • The wines of Clos de Tart are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only. • Should you wish to sell the wines in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal. • Priority will be given to Clos de Tart’s and Corney & Barrow’s best, most loyal and most regular customers. May we please have your order by 18th June. Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be put into your reserves on payment. All orders are conditional upon UK storage only. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. Wines are scored out of 20. Customers seem to like it and it has the benefit of simplicity. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com

NORTH OF ENGLAND Sedbury Stables, Sedbury Hall Richmond, North Yorkshire DL10 5LQ T +44 (0)1748 828 640 sedburyorders@corneyandbarrow.com

EAST ANGLIA Belvoir House, High Street Newmarket, Suffolk CB8 8DH T +44 (0)1638 600 000 newmarket@corneyandbarrow.com

EDINBURGH Oxenfoord Castle by Pathhead Midlothian, Scotland EH37 5UB T +44 (0)1875 321 921 edinburgh@corneyandbarrow.com

AYR 8 Academy Street, Ayr Ayrshire, Scotland KA7 1HT T +44 (0)1292 267 000 ayr@corneyandbarrow.com

FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrow

TWITTER @corneyandbarrow

INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrow