2018 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
“Abondance de biens ne nuit jamais.” “You can’t have too much of a good thing.” FRANCK GRUX Technical Director | June 2019
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
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2018 VINTAGE
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INTRODUCTION 2019 marks 35 years since Olivier Leflaive set up his company in Puligny-Montrachet. In the decades since, this impressive Burgundian house has created a worldwide following for the style, quality and consistency of its wines.
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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Olivier Leflaive is a relatively small maison, however the range of wines produced is nothing short of remarkable for its breadth and depth. Spanning the region from Chablis in the north via the Côte de Beaune to the more southerly Côte Chalonnaise, it encompasses an almost psychedelic array of appellations and lieux-dits along the way. Despite this, or perhaps more a function of it in terms of accrued knowledge and understanding of the land, Olivier Leflaive has quietly forged a reputation for its wines as benchmarks of their origins, wines that express a ‘sense of place’. Nowhere is this notion more relevant or specific than in Burgundy, arguably the most fragmented of the world’s great wine regions in terms of its different terroirs and ownership. However, producing wines truly reflective of their site requires painstaking work at all stages of the winemaking process from the vineyard to the cellar. Olivier Leflaive owns 20 hectares of vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, including parcels in some of the world’s most
legendary premier cru vineyards. However, a significant proportion of grape supply comes from long-term partnerships with 120 or so family vignerons. Relationships with these small growers are managed by Olivier’s technical team, Franck Grux and Philippe Grillet, who work closely with them on an individual basis, in many cases effectively running the vineyards throughout the growing season. The quality of the grapes lies partly in the quality of these relationships, as well as a meticulous and unrelenting attention to detail in the vineyards, for which Franck and Philippe have acquired something of a reputation among growers on the Côte! For Olivier Leflaive, achieving a sense of place is predicated at least in part on fraîcheur, that all-important impression of freshness and purity on which the house style depends. This is also why Franck is particularly attentive to the grapes in the run-up to harvest, typically despatching the pickers to the vineyards early, in pursuit of vital acidities.
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
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Olivier Leflaive
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
The past few vintages have presented difficulties for growers across Burgundy, Olivier Leflaive included. Steering a wine business successfully when the ultimate boss is as capricious as Mother Nature requires significant skill and experience. Under the steady hand of CEO Jean Soubeyrand, the operation has not only weathered the challenges but continues to thrive, re-investing in the cellars and facilities while pushing boundaries in pursuit of quality. Meanwhile, on the hospitality front, Olivier’s award-winning hotel and restaurant on the Place du Monument continues to flourish in the hands of Olivier Leflaive’s daughter Julie. Autumn-Winter 2019 will see an exciting phase of development. Facilities are being expanded and beautiful new bedrooms added. 2018 surprised growers across the region in terms of its quality and quantity. Warm, sunny and dry, the weather reminded some of warmer vintages like 2003, 2006 and 2015, however sufficient water reserves mitigated conditions that would otherwise have caused serious hydric stress and ripening issues. Most astonishing perhaps, was the condition of the crop: the grapes were absolutely pristine, more so than in any vintage in recent memory. We are often asked to compare and contrast the vintage with others. For Franck Grux, whom I interrogated at length on this point, the wines will not be pigeon-holed! While they share a certain bright, ‘sunny’ quality common to 2006 and 2015 for example, they are less rich than the latter. Does the taut structure of some of the wines align them with 2010 or 2012? The wine enthusiasts among us could (and do) debate this sort of topic endlessly! Today, the wines are still young, so we must be patient. One thing is certain however: with their gentle, creamy approachability and sense of freshness, the 2018s are undeniably, assuredly Olivier Leflaive in style. For more information on the sub-regional vintage conditions and notes on the wines themselves, please read on.
REBECCA PALMER June 2019
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OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
CHABLIS Chablis’ iconic mineral profile and elegance are the embodiment of its cool climate and kimmeridgian clay-limestone soils.
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The ongoing challenge for vignerons with such an identifiable and idiosyncratic terroir, is how to capture its typicity, undeniably part of the wine’s perceived quality. For chablisiens - as with many growers at the margins of grape-growing feasibility – a huge part of the task means navigating the vagaries of climate, and doing so in such a way as to bring their vines not only to fruitfulness but to expression. Recent vintages have not been straightforward in this respect. After the violent rollercoaster conditions of 2016 and considerable demands of 2017, growers in Chablis as in all of Burgundy approached 2018 primed for another punchy round in the ring with Mother Nature. To great relief she was largely benevolent this year. While some vines started to suffer from drought in the warm summer months, restorative rains in early August meant that by early September, the grapes were beautifully balanced, yielding a full crop in perfect health. Critical to typicity and quality in this warm year, was the timing of harvest. As often Franck Grux and Philippe Grillet picked early, in pursuit of allimportant freshness.
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
CHABLIS LES DEUX RIVES Les Deux Rives (‘the two banks’) is a blend of grapes from vineyards on either side of the Serein, the small river that bisects Chablis. Olivier Leflaive has longstanding contracts with a handful of family growers here, including some renowned names. Les Deux Rives is a classic Chablis, pure and mineral, while displaying a certain approachability and easy charm – both hallmarks of Olivier Leflaive’s style. Initially supple, the palate of orchard fruit reveals a deceptively firm acid suspension. The finish lingers long, scented with mayblossom and wet stone. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2022 Estimated arrival UK: November 2019 £155/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS GRAND CRU VAUDÉSIR Grand Cru Chablis have a rightful place in the panoply of the world’s great fine white wines. For me, the best share a combination of qualities: a certain evocative scent, fruit expressive but never excessive, supported not smothered by oak. There should be a sense of weight and textural layers, wrapped around a firm, mineral core; ripeness craves tension. 2018 has yielded a fine Vaudésir, perhaps the most refined of all the grand cru vineyards. Its jasmine scent and savoury-ripe fruit has perfect tone, upright and yielding with silky layers held in place by the classic Chablis acids. Long and scented. One of the top wines of the vintage. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2025 Estimated arrival UK: November 2019 £245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EMAIL
sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
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OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
CÔTE DE BEAUNE Growers in the Côte de Beaune started the 2018 season on the front foot, thanks to fine flowering the previous year - a key factor in determining the potential of the harvest to follow.
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Spring and summer started warm, which can sometimes raise fears as early growth easily falls victim to frost – a huge scourge in recent years. To great relief, the critical phases passed without incident, however the region remained on high alert until the ‘saints de glace’, the saint days in mid-May traditionally marking the end of the frost season. Nobody expected such a warm, dry and sunny summer however; in fact for months, temperatures were higher in Beaune than in Marseille! This meant perfect conditions at flowering and beyond, with zero incidence of disease on the leaves or grapes. Not for many years had the crop looked so healthy! There were some drought issues at véraison, but these were solved by light rains bang on cue in mid-August, setting the grapes on the home straight. In this warm year, the team at Olivier Leflaive decided to harvest early to preserve acidities, starting on 27th August. The grapes arrived at the cellar in pristine condition, and in abundance. Retasting some of the wines in June 2018 confirmed earlier assessments: these are wines with an uplifting, radiant quality; reflective of the growing season perhaps. As can be expected, older vines and higher quality sites have more density, richer and deeper in their expression.
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ
PERNAND-VERGELESSES
An appealingly expressive Aligoté this year, thanks to warm summer conditions. Its gently ripe, sunny fruit is held in check by lovely fresh acids. Tarte au citron in a glass, with the customary twist of almond. Exceptional value.
One of my star wines of 2018. In this warm year Pernand is expressive yet refined, weaving magic with its alluring white flower scent and tangy thrill of fruit. True to its high, chalky terroir, the wine is precise and taut, an exercise in balance. Not to be missed.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2022 Estimated arrival UK: November 2019
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 Estimated arrival UK: December 2019
£105/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £135/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
AUXEY-DURESSES LA MACABRÉE
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU EN RÉMILLY
Auxey-Duresses is fast becoming the insider appellation and for good reason: those with an eye for the detail will know that some of its vineyard parcels are contiguous with Meursault. In fact, the parcel of La Macabrée lies just 3m from Meursault Les Luchets. La Macabrée is a special site, its wines a tantalising combination of soft creamy fruit and silken textures, with a distinctive tang on the finish. True panache.
While Saint-Aubin does not (yet) enjoy quite the renown of the triumvirate of Puligny-Chassagne-Meursault, its premier cru wines in particular can be stunning. Unsurprising perhaps given their location: the vineyard of En Rémilly lies just below the hallowed Montrachet, looking towards Chassagne-Montrachet. Elegant and uplifting, En Rémilly is taut and filigree, somehow reflective of its stony site. A lovely wine in 2018, its inviting fruit and chiselled, lacy textures tease the palate.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2023 Estimated arrival UK: December 2019
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Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023+ Estimated arrival UK: February 2020
£260/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £350/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £375/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK (limited availability)
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU DENTS DE CHIEN
A note on Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles Due to unexpected production issues at the time of writing, we are unable to offer Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles as part of the 2018 primeurs offer, but hope to make small quantities available sometime in 2020.
While En Rémilly faces Chassagne, the Dents de Chien vineyard faces towards Puligny and echoes its structure and class. A stunning Saint-Aubin, Dents de Chien this year is every inch its premier cru. Rich and taut, weighty yet ‘aérien’, in these opposing forces of light and dark the wine finds its balance. Silky, mineral, toasty, characterful, with a hint of exotic acacia; a classic of the vintage. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023+ Estimated arrival UK: February 2020 £350/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £375/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Also available in barrel at £7,765 in bond UK.
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
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2018 VINTAGE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES MEIX
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES REFERTS
Les Meix is a vineyard parcel just yards from premier cru Les Pucelles and in richer vintages, can yield wines of real exception. Ripe yet ballerina-fine this year, Les Meix offers lively, upbeat orchard fruit and gentle hazelnutcream layers, leaving a scent of white flowers in its wake.
Les Referts’s rocky mid-slope site and 45 year-old vines have offered up a stubbornly small crop of concentrated berries this year, in a vintage that surprised the Burgundians with its generous yields. Rich yet sleek, Referts is satin-fine, stylish to a fault. Reticent initially, its fruit unfurls in a wave on the mid-palate, unleashing only then its full mineral force, scenting the mouth and head with white flowers. The wine lingers on the finish, a sensation like the tide through toes, tingling as it goes.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2023 Estimated arrival UK: March 2020 £265/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £555/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Also available in barrel at £11,700 in bond UK.
Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025+ Estimated arrival UK: March 2021 £335/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £695/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES BLANCHOTS
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Blanchots has a refined bone structure and uptown allure, a reflection of its exceptional site – a continuation of Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet. Fine in texture, smooth as silk, this is a wine of grace and race, with toned orchard fruit, fresh macadamia nut layers and deceptively firm, stony acids to finish. One of our all-time favourites. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024 Estimated arrival UK: March 2020
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU ABBAYE DE MORGEOT ‘RÉCOLTE DU DOMAINE’ This wine comes from mature vineyards owned by Olivier Leflaive himself, two parcels on unusual blue clay soils. This is a particular terroir, giving wines somehow more masculine in shape and structure, requiring time to open up. Rich and smooth, with a savoury depth and latent scent, 2018 has yielded a suave, long-line Morgeot. Give it time, and you will be rewarded. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025+ Estimated arrival UK: March 2021
£225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £475/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
£330/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £685/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT CLOS DU CROMIN
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU PORUZOTS ‘RÉCOLTE DU DOMAINE’
Stylish yet discreet, Cromin is a neat, refined Meursault, tailored to a gentle curve. Instantly inviting, it offers deceptively rich, supple fruit, with hints of vanilla and verveine. Expressive without excess, a classic white Burgundy with quiet flair.
Les Poruzots was the first parcel that Olivier Leflaive bought, back in 1989. This narrow, sloping vineyard parcel yields a luxurious wine, concentrated and rich, its generous buttercream texture underscored by ripe acids. Classically structured and statuesque. There are just 8 barrels of this wine in 2018, maturing quietly in the cellars in Puligny.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024 Estimated arrival UK: March 2020 £225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025+ Estimated arrival UK: March 2021
£475/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £330/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £685/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
CÔTE CHALONNAISE The Côte Chalonnaise has long been the insider’s destination for stylish, affordable white Burgundies.
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The villages of Montagny and Rully boast exceptional premier cru sites whose wines are favourites with our staff and customers alike. We are very happy indeed with the quality and style of these wines this year. While the summer was warm, and some water stress on the slopes required the vines to dig deep for water, the resulting crops were exceptionally healthy and abundant. Again Olivier Leflaive’s team went into the vines early, to maintain fresh acidities. This year the wines are expressive and beautifullybalanced: sunny wines, reflective of the warm vintage. As always they represent very good value for money.
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
MONTAGNY 1ER CRU BONNEVEAUX Bonneveaux by name, bonny by nature, you could say the clue is in the name; it is certainly in the site: a sunny, bright, sloping vineyard. Year after year, it produces a remarkably consistent white Burgundy, unfailingly uplifting in spirit, and all too easy to drink. In fact, such is its popularity with staff and customers, that we buy every single bottle made. Its enticing jasmine scent, supple orchard fruit and lemon-cream layers are perfectly balanced, simply: satisfying and refreshing. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2021 Estimated arrival UK: November 2019 £220/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £245/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK (limited availability) Also available in barrel at £4,920 in bond UK.
RULLY 1ER CRU VAUVRY 15 The mid-slope site of Vauvry has deep clay-rich soils that hold onto moisture, coaxing its grapes gently to ripeness through the heat of summer. In pursuit of all-important freshness, Franck and Philippe picked early, and Vauvry 2018 sits serenely at 12.5%. Upright, delicate and toasty at a recent tasting in June 2018, it will develop its subtle, scented, creamy layers in the months to come. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2021 Estimated arrival UK: November 2019 £220 /CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To Order LONDON
020 7265 2430 EMAIL
sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.
OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
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2018 VINTAGE
YOUR OWN BARREL OF OLIVIER LEFLAIVE’S WINES! Olivier and his team have once again agreed to provide a trio of their favourite wines of the vintage, for you to purchase ‘en barrique’.
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This year the range comprises Montagny 1er Cru Bonneveaux, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Dents de Chien and the ever popular Puligny-Montrachet Les Meix. A barrel contains 225 litres of wine, equivalent to 25 cases of 12 bottles. The prices offered per barrel allow you to make significant savings on the standard case price. In addition, those of you taking advantage of this special offer will be treated by Olivier to an overnight stay at his awardwinning 4 star hotel La Maison d’Olivier, in the heart of the village of Puligny-Montrachet. Furthermore, during your stay you will have the rare opportunity of a private tasting with Olivier or the winemaker in the cellars, where you will be able to taste your own wine as it matures. Some of you have asked whether it might be possible to buy the barrel itself, once your wines have been bottled, and to have it shipped to you at the same time. We are pleased to say that this can be arranged, at a purchase price of approx. £125, excluding delivery costs – these will vary depending on delivery location.
MONTAGNY 1ER CRU BONNEVEAUX Barrel price*: £4,920 in bond UK Equivalent case price: £196.80/case of 12 bottles (from £220)
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU DENTS DE CHIEN Barrel price*: £7,765 in bond UK Equivalent case price: £310.60/case of 12 bottles (from £350)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES MEIX Barrel price*: £11,700 in bond UK Equivalent case price: £234/case of 6 bottles (from £265)
Olivier and team have selected the following wines for purchase by the barrel this year:
* Terms & Conditions: All prices are quoted in bond, UK. All barrel purchases are to be made to a single title-holder with a single invoice and single delivery address. The barrel price includes one night’s accommodation free of charge (double or twin room) at La Maison d’Olivier, Place du Monument, Puligny-Montrachet. www.maison-olivierleflaive.fr. Cost of transport to the hotel is not included. The visit and tasting should be completed before wines are bottled. You will be notified of intended bottling dates at purchase, so that they can plan your visit accordingly. Please note that La Maison d’Olivier will be closed for building work from 21st October 2019, reopening in mid-May 2020 (exact date to be confirmed closer to the time). While you will be unable to redeem their complimentary stay during this period, Olivier Leflaive will honour the offer for a further 6 months after the hotel reopens, to allow ample time to arrange their visit. Visits are non-transferable. You will also be notified when the wine is bottled and delivered to the UK. The price given equates to 25 cases of 12 bottles (75cl). If you would prefer bottling to take place in magnums, please contact your salesperson. Additional charges may apply. Please note, for production reasons, there are limited magnums available of Montagny 1er Cru Bonneveaux this year.
FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO ORDER PLEASE CALL 020 7265 2430
To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
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2018 VINTAGE
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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
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