Cantina Giacomo Conterno 2019 Releases

CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO THE 2019 RELEASES EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM & HONG KONG

CONTERNO As I write this I am on my way back from a visit to Cantina Giacomo Conterno with Adam Brett-Smith and Thibaut Mathieu, our MD in Hong Kong. The thing that struck me this morning, in a moment of reflection, was how incredibly driven and busy Roberto and his team have been in the last decade or so. If we look back to 2008, there is a whole string of achievements and landmarks.

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2008 – CERRETTA A new vineyard purchase. Planted with both Nebbiolo and Barbera. The first addition to the estate since the acquisition of Cascina Francia in 1974.

2015 – ARIONE Another new site, this time planted solely with Nebbiolo. Both Cerretta and Arione are of course in Serralunga so the addition is both logical and coherent. Arione is a Southern extension of Cascina Francia with a more Southern exposure. The first wine is Barolo Arione, featured in this offer.

2018 – AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI, GATTINARA The purchase of this estate in the North-East of Piedmont with a focus on Nebbiolo but on very different, volcanic, soils. The wines are offered separately.

2017-2019 – SENSORY GLASSES (see page 20) As if Roberto has the time! This is a joint project with Zwiesel Kristallglas and the results are staggering. We have done extensive tests and love this glass.

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FROM THE TOP OF THE FRANCIA VINEYARD Foot note

Roberto Conterno

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If one adds to this the incredible rigour with which Roberto has overhauled the inspection and treatment of corks and the development of the Cantina itself then it really has been an incredible run of projects. What is all the more amazing is that at no point has there been any compromise in the vineyard husbandry and winemaking.

The sense you get is of an estate at the very top of its game and only going upwards.

We are delighted to share one further piece of news that we have now been appointed to represent Cantina Giacomo Conterno in Hong Kong as well as the UK, exclusively in both markets. A source of great pride for our team and a further strengthening of a very special relationship for us.

Joe Muller joined Adam and me on a trip back in July and I am delighted that Joe has shared some of his thoughts in a section later in the offer.

WILL HARGROVE Head of Fine Wine October 2019

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CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO

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BARBERAS - 2017 “2017 – one of the best vintages for Barbera – warm and dry.”

ROBERTO CONTERNO

I am not alone in thinking that if the Barberas were the only wines that Roberto made they would be in receipt of a frenzy of demand. As those who know them are aware - they are great wines. I always remember Roberto’s comment that “they are Conterno first and Barbera second”. I love these wines, vibrant and hedonistic. The difference between the two sites – Francia and Cerretta - is always so clear here, every bit as defined as in the Nebbiolo.

As with all the tasting notes in this offer, the wines were tasted from bottle in July 2019 (with the exception of Monfortino, see below). In many cases I have tasted the wines from Botti (very large traditional barrels) before and I do look back at those tasting notes to follow the evolution of the wines.

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“2015, 2016 & 2017: all very good for Barbera.”

ROBERTO CONTERNO

BARBERA VIGNA CERRETTA 2017

If you’ll allow me the indulgence then I must just comment on my last bottle of the 2008 (the first vintage) of this wine. It was drunk with friends recently and was immaculate: youthful but not too vigorous.

There is something different about the character of Barbera here, more “crunch”. The 2017, to get back to the point, has a deeper core than usual but in contrast, the fruit is more red, even some strawberry and a definite tang of rhubarb. There is a lovely lift to this. A slightly raw energetic note gives this a real edge. The boldest Barbera yet from this site. I just wish there was so much more of it.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2028+ £475/Case of 12 bottles, in bond UK

BARBERA VIGNA FRANCIA 2017

Rich fruit of damsons, cranberry and then deeper darker fruits. A cool chalky structure with a lovely lively texture.

A very complete wine. There is real depth and a latent power also but there manages to be a lightness of touch.

Splendid. If you try a bottle of this fairly soon then good luck keeping your hands off the rest of the case.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2030+ £475/Case of 12 bottles, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system.

We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers.

Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

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BAROLOS - 2015 In terms of vintage, 2015 is regarded as a good one but not universally so.

I agree with Antonio Galloni’s observation that “2015 reminds me a bit of 2012, a year in which both the personality and quality of the wines are quite varied”. He is of course talking about the whole area.

To look at the growing season the winter of 2014-2015 had heavy rainfall and plenty of snow. The end of winter was certainly warmer than usual, this got things going nicely.

Budbreak and then flowering occurred within the normal ranges. There was more rain towards the end of May and into June which, added to the winter rain, meant the water table was in a good state for the warmth that was to be experienced from mid-June to mid-August. This warm period was not one in which there were substantial heat spikes so maturation occurred as hoped. September and early October were a little cooler than average but this worked well, a counter-balance to what had gone before.

This is the first year in which we have three Barolos from three separate sites. All notes are based on tasting from bottle, one month after bottling.

“Barolo Arione is a magnificent addition to the Conterno range.”

A.GALLONI, VINOUS

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Joe Muller, Fine Wine Sales Manager – Initial impressions “First impressions are rather important - when you visit a place, which you have read and heard so much about, your preconceptions often buffer any impact. I was well aware that words such as ‘clean’, ‘spotless’ and ‘neat’ are easily bandied about to describe Cantina Giacomo Conterno, but I wasn’t prepared for just how literal that was. It is without doubt the most immaculate winery I’ve had the fortune to tour, the botti (large barrel) room, cellar and bottling line feel and look almost untouched.

This certainly seems to stem from Roberto’s character, his desire for order and control when making wine. It is no coincidence that the purity Roberto achieves within his Nebbiolo and Barbera is also found in and around his cellar! Roberto has recently revamped his bottle cellar rather impressively too, an elegant setting that provides a wonderful homage to Piedmont’s finest!”

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The Pingus Vineyard

BAROLO CERRETTA 2015

Amazing fruit, precise and red-fruited though with some plum. There is a lovely herbal note as well. A good, quite bold, structure then comes in. This is followed by lovely notes of oriental tea. Quite a serious feel and when the mid palate fleshes out there will be more body. Very impressive.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18++ Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2032+ £950/case of 6 Bottles, in bond UK £355/case of 1 Magnum, in bond UK £745/case of 1 Double Magnum, in bond UK

BAROLO ARIONE 2015

To me it seems like only yesterday that Cerretta was added to the line up. Arione is now a third Barolo site and a very exciting one, being a continuation, to the south, of Francia.

There is a lovely pure nose here with terrific presence.

Red fruit as well as more elaborate and bold deeper aromas come to the fore. The “tea” signature of the three Barolos this year is still there. The finish is terrific with a bold feel and a great length. The overall impression is splendid with a sweet finish to match the bold but refined tannins. Crazy to think this is the first rendition from Roberto.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2033+ £950/case of 6 Bottles, in bond UK £355/case of 1 Magnum, in bond UK £745/case of 1 Double Magnum, in bond UK

BAROLO FRANCIA 2015

In many ways this wine is the cornerstone of the range.

It is strange therefore that there was no 2013 or 2014.

The deepest core of the three Barolos. Red fruit for sure but such amazing aromatics that are balanced by the trademark salinity, always present in Francia. The structure is bold but so dynamic that it is not heavy or drying. There is a delicacy to the fruit on the finish that I love but don’t understand – how can it be like this? A very lovely and very long wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2035+ £950/case of 6 Bottles, in bond UK £355/case of 1 Magnum, in bond UK £745/case of 1 Double Magnum, in bond UK

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“In 2013, a cool growing season and late harvest produced gorgeous Barolos with striking aromatics, silky tannins, sculpted, vibrant fruit and mid-weight structures. This produced a number of thrilling, utterly captivating wines that speak to the pedigree and class that are the signatures of the best Barolo vintages.�

A.GALLONI, Looking across at Arione with the Francia vineyard in the top left

VINOUS

MONFORTINO 2013 So with no Monfortino in 2011 or 2012, we finally have one again - and not just any Monfortino.

The 2013 is the first of two vintages in which there is no Barolo Francia at all, so happy is Roberto with the 2013 and 2014 that both wines will be “Monfortino only” from the Nebbiolo in the Francia vineyard. 2013 is only the second time this has happened, the first having been 2002. Both vintages, 2013 & 2014, were relatively cool with a classically traditional late harvest.

To the 2013 growing season more specifically – there was a wet spring that was followed by improved conditions as the summer started. The conditions were “nicely moderate” allowing a slow and even maturation, warm days and cool nights adding to the sense of complexity.

The proportions of the tannins are exactly as they should be and these wines will repay cellaring, as one would expect.

MONFORTINO 2013

The Monfortino 2013 was bottled in June 2018. One of the joys of visiting the estate each year, and the fact that the wines stay in barrel for some time, is that the same wine can be tasted several times, at least three in the case of Monfortino 2013. The nose has a superb saline attack (I can’t help but think of my favourite dish – Vitello Tonnato) then wave upon wave of fruit, herbs and leather or tobacco. It is a moveable object of a wine, almost impossible to pin down. With air it reveals itself more and more, the perfect wine to serve in one of Roberto’s glasses. The sense of drive and persistence is quite awesome.

Corney & Barrow Score 19 - 19.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2040++ £1650/case of 3 Bottles, in bond UK £1195/case of 1 Magnum, in bond UK £2695/case of 1 Double Magnum, in bond UK

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THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order. Due to the huge increase in demand for these wines over recent years, we will have to allocate all the wines in this offer.

This will be done as quickly and as fairly as possible.

We will do our best to accommodate newer customers, however priority will be given to customers who have supported wines from Cantina Giacomo Conterno over time.

1. Cantina Giacomo Conterno and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator.

2. The wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK or Hong Kong only.

3. Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal, as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution.

May we please have your order by 24th October. Allocations will be completed by 30th October. Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment.

As already outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage or Hong Kong delivery only. May we please request that invoices are settled within the usual terms.

In the interests of being fair, we reserve the right to reallocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.

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SENSORY GLASSES The Sensory glass project was first conceived in July 2017 as a result of a discussion between Roberto and Zwiesel Kristallglas.

As mentioned in the introduction, this is a project born of Roberto’s fanatical obsession with detail and the desire for his wines, and happily others, to be enjoyed to maximum effect. The glasses are NOT designed as purely a glass for Nebbiolo and/or Barbera but for all wines (with the exception of sparkling). They are designed to be very light but at the same time more sturdy than they may feel or look. They are available in both UK and Hong Kong.

ÂŁ293.70 inc vat per 6 glasses HK$2,600 per 6 glasses

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WHEN, HOW & WHAT TO DRINK NOW This is not me telling you what to do, it is my refined view on how you might approach drinking these wonderful wines.

BARBERA In most vintages the Barbera wines show best at 4-9 years of age. They become more savoury over time and continue to age (a 2001 Francia with Roberto was superb and a 2008 Cerretta recently was joyous) but, as you would expect, have a less defined character and energy.

The 2011, 2012 and 2013 vintages are very good now. As these are unfiltered and Barbera is a thick-skinned grape variety, I would recommend standing the wines up for a few hours and decanting 15-30 minutes before serving.

The perfect wine to have at home for when you just want something delicious without breaking the bank and knowing you’ll get a great wine.

BAROLO The warmer vintages drink very well when younger and served a shade cooler (13-15 degrees). The recent vintages in this bracket are 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2011. These will all improve but are ready to drink. I recommend continuing to cellar the 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010 & 2012 vintages. The wines from 2001 and before are ready to drink (according to your taste), though 2001 and 1999 continue to be youthful and are evolving gracefully. Sediment is less of an issue than with Barbera so I would either allow the wine to breathe standing up with half a glass removed (i.e. drunk!) or decant gently before serving. I far prefer the wine to warm gently and develop aromas in the glass so I, personally, do not advocate extended decanting, although some people do.

BAROLO RISERVA MONFORTINO This is a wine with a vast drinking window, one of the most long-lived of all wines. The youngest vintages that I feel are drinking well now are 1997, 1998 & 2000. I would never put someone off drinking a younger vintage as the enjoyment of watching a wine develop bottle by bottle from youth to full maturity is one of the real joys of wine.

Younger vintages will require more time in the decanter.

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