ETS. JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX, 2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

ETS. JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX 2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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Bélair-Monange carrières. Photo credit: DEEPIX

ETS. JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX

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2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

THE 2021 VINTAGE: WALK THE LINE “I hear the train a comin' It's rolling round the bend And I ain't seen the sunshine since I don't know when” Johnny Cash

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After the astonishing 2018-2020 trio of vintages, 2021 was in danger of being written off in public opinion while still in gestation. DOA, as the US Army says. By the law of averages, things cannot just keep going well…

Fortunately, armchair wine assessment is no substitute for actual tasting. Yes there was a fine line to walk in 2021 but over the course of eight days of tasting in Bordeaux, it became clear that those who managed it have excelled.

We tasted the 2021s in Libourne, at Moueix HQ, on the morning of Saturday 23rd April 2022, before re-tasting with an even larger team in London in early May. It was good to be back, after a Covid-enforced gap of two years (C&B covert ops aside – but that’s another story…)

Edouard Moueix described how the spring rain put the vines under “quite a bit of pressure” – it was crucial to be in the vineyard, “taking decisions by the minute, as nature messed up our plans every week.”

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The 2021 season opened with a rainy and mild winter, resulting in an early and uneven budbreak, between 24th and 27th March in the warm gravels of Pomerol. This early development put the young buds at great risk of a spring frost. This April danger period, resulting from earlier budbreak, has become the major (and majorly inconvenient) impact of climate change in the vineyards of Europe.

Frost duly materialised during the nights of 6th and 7th April, when temperatures dropped to -3 and -4°C. The 48-strong Moueix vineyard team swung into action in the vines of Pomerol between 3 and 8am. Candles and wind machines were deployed, raising temperatures by 2°C and thereby holding off the worst of the frost. Thankfully, the higher plateau of Saint-Émilion was less affected.

Flowering “unfolded very nicely” amid glorious weather at the end of May, although the variances in maturity from plot to plot resulting from the uneven budbreak persisted.

June and July were “mostly gloomy”, with a few gorgeous hot and sunny periods in the middle of each month. Under such conditions, véraison (colour change) occurred slowly.

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Bélair-Monange. Photo credit: Alain Benoit DEEPIX

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2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

C&B and Moueix Team. From left to right: Édouard Moueix, Paul Marus, Will Hargrove, Guy Seddon, Christian Moueix, Bryce Fraser, Stéphane Laborie, Adam Brett-Smith

Bélair-Monange. Photo credit: Alain Benoit DEEPIX

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August was dry and nearly made up for the previous lack of summer sunshine. Once véraison was complete, the team, now numbering 70 people, did their best to “compensate for nature's deficiencies”. As Édouard said, with some emphasis, when I asked how the Merlot had performed on the right bank of Bordeaux: “We have mainly Merlot, so we take care of our Merlot.”

To prove his point, the Moueix vintage report itemises a painstaking 14,000 hours of vineyard work, including secondary shoot removal (987 hours), leaf-plucking (4,023 hours on one side of the rows, then 2,333 hours on the other) and green harvesting (4,313 hours). Top terroir notwithstanding, this is how you make great wine.

The weather forecast, which had announced rain before harvest, fortunately was proved wrong, vindicating the team’s brave decision to wait for optimal ripeness. Picking was regimented, with one person per row, rather than the traditional two pickers facing each other. As Édouard explains it, “This resulted in quicker, more responsible work, while respecting the distancing necessary to prevent the spread of Covid.” Harvest took place from 23rd September to 6th October, under good conditions.

The Moueix 2021s are wines of light and aroma – elegantly red-fruited, with a serenely extracted tannic presence and a fresh core of acidity. Alcohols average 13.5% abv (with no chaptalisation). The yin to 2018’s yang, perhaps.

Given the early negative press around the growing season, the fate of the 2021s may be to spend the rest of their lives being called ‘surprisingly good’ or ‘underrated’.

The picks of the bunch are so much better than that, as is clear to see from our tastings. My advice? Read the detail, not the headlines. Buy these wines!

GUY SEDDON Fine Wine Buyer, June 2022

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2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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2021 TASTING NOTES

By Adam Brett-Smith

Château Peymouton

Clos Saint-Martin

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé

A brand new purchase in 2021, replacing our beloved Château Barrail du Blanc which suffered terribly from early frosts and will not therefore be offered this year.

Just 1.3 hectares (3.2 acres) in size, this tiny property is owned by our good friend Sophie Fourcade and beautifully sited on classic clay and limestone soils between first growths Beauséjour Becot and DuffauLagarrosse. We have bought this since the 1987 vintage and it is one of the jewels of Saint-Émilion. Deepest ruby colour. Profound rich black and red fruits on the nose.

The palate is powerfully extracted but beautifully cloaked in fruit, with fine density, purity and a lifted fresh finish of impressive length. A fine result.

Peymouton is, of course, part of the estate of the historic Château Laroque acquired by the Beaumartin family in 1935 and is neighbour to the celebrated Château Rocheyron of Peter Sisseck. Here, however, the soil is deep, thick red clay and with a further layer of rich clay over limestone giving this wine a lovely density. Firm ruby in colour with fresh red fruits on the nose. The palate is ripe and full, impressively rich, with well-extracted density and fine length. Bit of a find this one.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027 £135/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £150/CASE OF 24 HALVES, IN BOND UK £150/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £80/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 31 hectares (76 acres) Soil types: Thin layer of rich clay over limestone; deep red clay 2021 vintage blend: 82% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc 8% Cabernet Sauvignon

Exclusive to Corney & Barrow in the UK Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2032+ £425/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £435/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 1.3 hectares (3.2 acres) Soil types: Clay on limestone 2021 vintage blend: 80% Merlot 15% Cabernet Franc 5% Cabernet Sauvignon

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ETS. JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX

Château Lagrange Pomerol

Acquired in 1953, this nine hectare (22.2 acre) vineyard lies on the northern borders of the famous Pomerol plateau on gravel-clay soil. 100% Merlot, the 2021 has a deep, ruby colour and a winsome, pretty, red fruit nose. The palate is lightly but plumply extracted, freshly flavoured, medium weight and with a really nice chocolately finish.

Plays this vintage very well.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2028+ £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £265/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 9 hectares (22 acres) Soil types: Gravel on clay and old, deep, blue clay 2021 vintage blend: 100% Merlot

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Château Plince Pomerol

Neighbour to both Château Nenin and La Pointe and lying on dark, sandy soil, this is a delectable “heart on sleeve” Pomerol. Firm, ruby colour. Forward, bright, plump red fruit on the nose with a nicely earthy depth to the perfume. The palate has that typical Plince supple density, generous, sensitively extracted tannins and really nice length; a lovely wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2027+ £280/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £140/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £295/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 8.5 hectares (21 acres)) Soil types: Dark soil on iron pan 2021 vintage blend: 82% Merlot 18% Cabernet Franc

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2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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Château La Grave Pomerol

Acquired by Christian Moueix in 1971, this small eight hectare (19.8 acre) vineyard lies on pure gravel touched by fine clay, a soil that threads all the way through Cheval Blanc and ends at Figeac. Not a bad relationship then.

Essentially 100% Merlot in 2021 (4% of Cabernet Franc), La Grave always triumphs in more difficult vintages and does so beautifully here. Dense ruby colour. The nose offers strawberry red fruit and cream, with a hint of summer pudding. The palate is almost perfectly balanced between supple, medium density fruit and sensitively extracted tannins, with a lovely, juicy satisfying length. A giver of pleasure. What more could you really ask for?

Exclusive to Corney & Barrow in the UK Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17+ Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2030 £380/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £190/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £395//CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £197.50/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £175/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 8 hectares (19.8 acres) Soil types: Gravel and fine clay 2021 vintage blend: 96% Merlot 4% Cabernet Franc

Château Bourgneuf Pomerol

Planted on clay-rich gravel and with Château Trotanoy as a neighbour, it is hardly surprising that there are shades of that profoundly great wine in this vineyard, owned by the Vayron family since 1821 and managed by Frédérique Vayron since 2008. Dense, ruby colour. Deepest red fruit on the nose, richly perfumed. The palate is powerfully flavoured, finely extracted and well-cloaked in fruit with quite a big, chewy concentration and a gutsy, fresh finish.

The score may just be a little conservative…

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2033+ £420/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £435/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 9 hectares (22 acres) Soil types: Gravel and clay, iron-rich subsoil 2021 vintage blend: 85% Merlot 15% Cabernet Franc

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2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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Château Latour à Pomerol Pomerol

Château Certan de May Pomerol

This is one of the great “insiders’” Pomerols. Known simply as “Château Latour” in Pomerol, happily more drunk than traded, and farmed by the Moueix family since 1962. I love it. A beautiful 2021 offering with a firm ruby colour and a stylish, restrained, creamily red-fruit perfume on the nose (Aristo, I scribbled in the margin).

The palate is measured, silky dry, with an effortlessly well-extracted structure, medium concentration and a finish that balloons suavely across the palate. Quite lovely.

Beautifully sited on the central plateau of Pomerol and the immediate neighbour of Vieux Château Certan, this is unusual in featuring a relatively high proportion of Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%).

Another fine result from a property to watch very closely.

Deepest ruby colour. The nose shows that characteristic, cocktailed bright red fruit, touched by mint and leafy Cabernet Franc perfume. The palate is savoury and structured with a dry, rich medium concentration and density and fine length.

Exclusive to Corney & Barrow in the UK Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2032+

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2034 £485/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£350/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£495/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

£360/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £285/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK

Vineyard size: 5.5 hectares (13.5 acres)

Vineyard size:

Soil types:

8 hectares (19.5 acres)

Clay and deep gravel

Soil types:

2021 vintage blend:

Deep gravel and clay (2/3)

60% Merlot

Clay and loam (1/3)

30% Cabernet Franc

2021 vintage blend:

10% Cabernet Sauvignon

100% Merlot

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Château Hosanna

Château La Fleur-Pétrus

Pomerol

Pomerol

This is a jewel-like, 4.5 hectare (11.1 acre) vineyard, originally Château Certain Giraud, from which only the highest and best plateau parcels were used to create this literally exalted château with some very old Cabernet Franc vines dating back to 1956. Blue clay on red gravel, the 2021 is another great success with an opaque ruby colour and a pure red, plum-laden fruited nose with a touch of Cabernet Franc leaf. The palate is delectably fresh with a chewy, plump density, a well-cloaked structure and a savoury, harmonious finish. Very good indeed.

Culled from the very finest gravel and clay soils on the plateau of Pomerol on which predominantly Merlot is planted with a small proportion of Cabernet Franc (and a tiny bit of Petit Verdot), this has produced a really fine wine in 2021. Opaque, dense ruby colour. A beautifully perfumed, stylish red-fruit nose with flashes of mint and subtle spice. The palate is effortlessly supple, beautifully extracted with a silky, dry structure, a sweet but flavoury mid-palate and almost perfect balance. Fine length as well. Lovely wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2027 - 2033 £480/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £490/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £370/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 4.5 hectares (11 acres) Soil types: Blue clay on red gravel, iron-rich subsoil 2021 vintage blend: 75% Merlot 25% Cabernet Franc

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035+ £910/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £920/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK £655/CASE OF 1 DOUBLE MAGNUM, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 18.7 hectares (46 acres) Soil types: Deep gravel and clay on iron-rich subsoil 2021 vintage blend: 95% Merlot 4% Cabernet Franc 1% Petit Verdot

ETS. JEAN-PIERRE MOUEIX

2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

Château Bélair-Monange

Château Trotanoy

Saint-Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

Pomerol

In the mid-19th century, this was, without exception, Saint-Émilion’s greatest wine, a position which Christian and Édouard Moueix, after the château’s purchase in 2008, are eager to regain. 14 years on and they are well on the way… Classic limestone on the famous plateau of Saint-Émilion and dense blue clay on the slopes offers the key to Bélair-Monange’s style, restrained power with absolute silky finesse.

What I scribbled in the margin cannot, alas, be repeated in print. It was a somewhat Anglo-Saxon comment, brief, actually monosyllabic, to describe how Trotanoy shrugs off, imperiously and decisively, the difficulties of the growing season.

This is a lovely wine in 2021 with a dense ruby colour deep to the rim. The nose is elegantly perfumed with creamy, dark fruit, a sense of refined ripeness. The palate is subtly extracted with powder-fine tannins, a silky concentration and effortless lengthy. Lovely wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 18Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035 £675/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £685/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK Vineyard size: 23.5 hectares (57.5 acres) Soil types: Asteriated limestone on the plateau, blue clay on limestone in the slopes

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2021 vintage blend: 99% Merlot

This is, of course, a profoundly great vineyard, steeped in history and famous for its very dense mixture of clay and gravel soils which are very hard to work – “trop ennuie” – hence the rolling into the name Trotanoy. It is small in size – 7.20 hectares (17.8 acres), majestic in reputation and once again, in 2021 it is 100% Merlot. Opaque ruby colour. The nose is fathomlessly deep, subliminally earthy with elusive hints of plums, violets and old, old rich, red fruit. The palate has that characteristic dry-rich Trotanoy quality with a superbly extracted concentration and structure. The tannins are super-fine and cloaked in dark, svelte fruits with a burst of freshness to the impressively long finish. Measured, calm and authoritative, this is quite outside the context of the vintage as if to say, “I am Trotanoy”.

Exclusive to Corney & Barrow in the UK Corney & Barrow Score 18Recommended drinking from 2030 - 2040 To be released in a dedicated offer in early July Vineyard size:

1% Cabernet Franc

7.2 hectares (17.8 acres) Soil types: Gravel on clay and black clay on iron pan 2021 vintage blend: 100% Merlot

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH

01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

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2021 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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