THE WINES OF ROBERTO CONTERNO, 2021 RELEASES

THE WINES OF ROBERTO CONTERNO CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO & AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI THE 2021 RELEASES EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM & HONG KONG

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INTRODUCTION Finally, the easing of restrictions allowed for a bit of travel. It will come as no surprise to those that know me that the first place I wanted to be was Piedmont.

The glamour of a Sunday afternoon Ryanair flight from Stansted doing nothing to curb my enthusiasm. It was going to be something of a race against the harvest starting. As it turned out the timing was perfect.

On Monday morning I was in a gloriously bright and sunny Gattinara (only 50 minutes from Milan Malpensa). With an hour or so until I was due at Nervi I decided to try and locate the Molsino vineyard. Last time I had been there it was in a Land Rover and that was quite a wild ride, would the Fiat 500X be up to the task?

Thankfully it was and the view was worth it. It really is an idyllic spot, sunshine and brightness allied to a cooling breeze and a wonderful natural amphitheatre. I can see exactly why Nebbiolo is so happy there. Having taken pictures and a little video it was time to find the way back down and meet up with Roberto at Cantina Nervi.

When I last visited, two years ago, a total renovation was just starting. Only Roberto would actually have got it all done and finished including a new restaurant, Cucina Nervi, all during Covid. If you can get there you must – for the wines and the food.

The Gattinara 2018 wines were stunning - more about that later in the offer.

The next day I then met up with Roberto and team again in Monforte (about 1.5 hours drive) to taste the Giacomo Conterno releases, thankfully the full range this year, from bottle. They were stellar – a botti of Arione having been added to Monfortino for the first time in 2015 vintage. Sadly, still a very small production, smaller even that 2014. The trio of 2017 Barolos were all strutting their stuff, all different but all so harmonious. The 2019 Barberas proved again that Roberto is not just about Nebbiolo. I was so sorry to leave Piedmont.

What a couple of days it was – I hope you enjoy the offer.

WILL HARGROVE Head of Fine Wine October 2021

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THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order. Due to the huge increase in demand for these wines over recent years, we will have to allocate all the wines in this offer.

This will be done as quickly and as fairly as possible.

We will do our best to accommodate newer customers, however priority will be given to customers who have supported wines from Cantina Giacomo Conterno over time and Nervi more recently.

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1. Roberto Conterno and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator.

2. The wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK or Hong Kong only.

3. Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal, as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution.

May we please have your order by 21st October.

Allocations will be completed by 28th October.

Confirmation of your order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment. As already outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage or Hong Kong delivery only.

May we please request that invoices are settled within the usual terms.

In the interests of being fair, we reserve the right to reallocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time. Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.

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THE VALFERANA VINEYARD

AZIENDA VITIVINICOLA NERVI “Conterno has taken his maniacal attention to detail and the best practices he has developed at his Giacomo Conterno estate in Serralunga and applied them at Nervi. The results speak for themselves.“ ANTONIO GALLONI, VINOUS

It was so exciting when we first heard of Roberto Conterno buying Nervi. With Roberto having expanded the great Cantina Giacomo Conterno estate by acquiring a part of the Cerretta vineyard (in 2008) and then Arione (in 2015), he had clearly been on the lookout for opportunities.

Those of you who know Roberto will understand that detail is his thing whether it is in the vineyard, in the winery or adding to the family’s holdings. Back before 2018 Nervi was very much on my radar, from the two previous occasions I had tasted. Both times I was sufficiently intrigued and impressed to do a write-up on my own blog. I liked the wines very much but that crucial, human link just wasn’t there – YET. Adam and I then visited Gattinara back in May 2018 and again with Joe Muller in 2019 before I made this recent trip. It is becoming something of a cliché these days to say that great wines are “grown and not made” but it is very clearly the case here. The combination of the soils, the aspect, the light and the altitude is something of a perfect storm for the Nebbiolo grape. Ordinarily there will be three wines, all from Nebbiolo. Gattinara itself is joined by two single vineyard bottlings – Valferana & Molsino. Roberto, however, doesn’t really do “rules” as you may know so he had already made a bold decision in blending the single vineyards with the Gattinara for the 2015 vintage. This was repeated for the 2017. In 2018 the three wines were made but it is just the Gattinara 2018 that will be sold now as the single vineyards are cellared for one more year (but well worth waiting for).

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE GATTINARA REGION The history of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi dates back more than 100 years. The history of wine in the area goes back even further. The 10th century tower, Torre della Castelle, that still stands prominently above the town (at a similar height to the top of the Molsino vineyard) was built to guard the vineyards. The Valferana vineyard, more about which below, can be traced back to 1242.

In 1787, Thomas Jefferson (remember that name for a new wine mentioned later) stayed at the Hotel “Tre Re” in Vercelli and drank his first Gattinara. The wine made a lasting impression and was the beginning of his passion for Nebbiolo. From the evidence in his journals, it has been deciphered that this wine was most likely a sparking rosé: “There is a red wine of Nebiule made in this neighbourhood which is very singular. It is about as sweet as the silky Madeira, as astringent on the palate as Bordeaux, as brisk as Champagne. It is a pleasing wine”. Things have moved on since then!

Until the end of the 19th century, Gattinara was held in far higher regard than either Barolo or Barbaresco. Phylloxera ravaged the vineyards, reducing the area from over 600

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CANTINA NERVI

hectares to just over 100. In 1872, a relative of Luigi Nervi’s, Pietro Giovanni Nervi, helped establish Italy’s second oenological research station in Gattinara. The analysis performed at the centre resulted in the 1875 quality classification of North Piemonte’s terroirs. Gattinara was placed first, followed by Lessona, Grignasco, Ghemme, Cossato, Sizzano, Boca and Briona. The head of the research station, Giovanni Battista Cerletti commented: “The best wines of North Piemonte enter into the category of Grands Vins d’Italie and match the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, particularly the latter to which the North Piemontese wines are similar. This conclusion is supported by the prices obtained by a good Gattinara or Ghemme.”

Italo, the only son of Margherita and Luigi Nervi, was largely responsible for obtaining the official DOC classification for Gattinara in 1967, with the higher quality DOCG classification obtained in 1990. The wines must contain at least 90% Nebbiolo, known locally as Spanna, with up to 10% Bonarda di Gattinara and no more than 4% Vespolina. Ageing is in oak for a minimum of one year, two years for Riserva, plus two years in bottle.

NERVI THE HISTORY Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi is Gattinara’s oldest operating winery. Luigi’s son, Italo, grew the company by purchasing vineyards and expanding their cellars. Italo passed away in 1975 with no direct heirs and left his shares in Nervi to relatives. The company was then sold to Germano Bocciolone in 1991, a steel manufacturing entrepreneur, who embarked on a massive investment programme, including a stainless steel vinification plant, 40 new Slavonian oak barrels and the replanting of the Molsino vineyard. His sons sold the majority share to the Astrup family in 2011. Erling Astrup had asked Roberto Conterno for his opinion before buying, and after tasting older vintages, Conterno said it was “wholly impossible not to make great wine here.”

In April 2018, Roberto Conterno, acquired 90% of Azienda Vitivinicola Nervi. Between early 2019 and mid 2021 Roberto has embarked on and completed a brilliant re-organisation and rebuilding of all the wine making, maturation and cellaring facilities as well as the addition of a new restaurant.

As you would expect it is not just any restaurant – strongly recommended and one hour from Milan Malpensa. cucine.nerviconterno.com

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THE MOLSINO VINEYARD

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THE VINEYARDS A series of seismic events has given the area of Gattinara a unique soil structure. 280 million years ago, volcanic rocks were created when the Valsesia super-volcano erupted. Then, when Africa collided with Europe to form Monte Rosa 60 million years ago, these rocks were forced to the surface as gravel. Most of this was washed away over time except for that of Gattinara’s higher slopes.

This has created a unique mineral-rich terroir. The gravel is rich in iron, manganese, zinc and copper. In addition, the high clay content - paralleled by Serralunga d’Alba and an absence of chalk give rise to acidic soil conditions, perfectly suited to Nebbiolo. Nestled in the foothills of Monte Rosa, the vineyards are protected from northerly winds.

There are currently 28 hectares (ha) under vine: Molsino, at 12ha, is Alto Piedmont’s finest southfacing amphitheatre. 7-8ha would ordinarily be considered for the Vigna Molsino bottling. The altitude is 350-420m.

Valferana is 8ha in size and is particularly high in iron and manganese, up to six times that of other Nebbiolo producing regions. Around 3-4ha would, at the moment, be considered for the Vigna Valferana bottling. The remainder is for the Gattinara. The altitude is 320m.

Garavoglie is 7ha and was replanted in 2015 with thirteen different Spanna (local name for Nebbiolo) clones, ensuring the original Nebbiolo clones of Alto Piedmont remain an integral part of Nervi vineyards.

Casaccie is the last site, at a minute 1ha.

Pruning and harvesting at all sites is carried out by hand.

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THE WINERY Enrico Fileppo, now ably assisted

by Matteo Gioioso, is the chief oenologist and has been with the winery since 1983.

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In the cellar, native yeasts are used. Roberto is incredibly hands-on here, as one would expect. For the single vineyard wines - Vigna Valferana and Vigna Molsino there is gentle destemming and crushing. Fermentation is in truncated conical oak vats, at controlled temperatures.

Maceration lasts 3-4 weeks. The ageing that follows is for a minimum of 40 months in old wood. The sizes of that old wood varies up to 76hl; it is an extraordinary cellar.

For the Gattinara, similarly, destemming and crushing is very gentle, followed by fermentation, again at controlled temperatures. The ageing here is for 30 months in large old wood.

Large oak casks, or botti, are used for ageing. More than 100 years of wine production have shown that only through a long and controlled ageing process can the

high potential of Nebbiolo tannins be transformed into a well-balanced wine. For this reason, in the Nervi cellars, ageing time is lengthened to more than that required by the Gattinara DOCG. The minimum ageing required by the Gattinara DOCG is three years, two of which must be in cask. The wines of Nervi age, as above, for four years, at least 2.5 years of which are in oak. This explains Luigi Nervi’s motto: Nectar in tempore, which implies that patient ageing in the cellar transforming the Nebbiolo grapes into the precious elixir which made the Roman gods immortal - just in case you were in doubt.

One other wine is currently produced, the Rosato, with another to join. The other is a sparkling Nebbiolo called Jefferson. The first bottling will be the 2017 – miniscule quantities.

“Roberto Conterno’s acquisition of Nervi in 2018 made waves and has brought a whole new level of interest to Alto Piemonte. I visited just a few months after the purchase was complete and Conterno had already added temperature control to the cellar. Since then, Conterno has built a new winery and added the same state of the art bottling line he has at Giacomo Conterno. The range of wines is now streamlined to three Gattinaras; the straight Gattinara bottling plus the single vineyard Molsino and Valferrana.”

ANTONIO GALLONI, VINOUS

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CANTINA GIACOMO CONTERNO Whilst the acquisition of Nervi (not to mention the addition of the restaurant) means Roberto often needs to be in two places at once, there has not been even a moment’s rest at Conterno.

A brief recent history…

2008 – CERRETTA A new vineyard purchase. Planted with both Nebbiolo and Barbera.

The first addition to the estate since the acquisition of Cascina Francia in 1974.

2015 – ARIONE 14

Another new site, this time planted solely with Nebbiolo. Both Cerretta and Arione are of course in Serralunga so the addition is both logical and coherent. Arione is a south facing (and therefore earlier ripening) extension of Cascina Francia. The 2017 offered here is the third Barolo Arione. A small selection of Arione 2015 is also included in the Monfortino 2015.

2017-2019 – THE SENSORY GLASS (see pages 26-27) 2020-2022 - THE SYMPHONY GLASS – more to come soon but think “sparkling” If one adds to all this the incredible rigour with which Roberto has overhauled the inspection and treatment of corks (the same for both Nervi and Conterno) and the development of the Cantina itself then it really has been an incredible run of projects. He is not finished there either…

There are few places in the wine world where you feel you could literally eat off the floor of the winery. I can’t work out whether the facilities more resemble a car tuning workshop (think Alpina or AMG) or a monastery. Either way the tranquillity and calm is a wonderful contrast to Roberto’s energy and dynamism. Roberto himself loves an Oscar Wilde quote the best one about him might be:

“Everything in moderation, including moderation.”

OSCAR WILDE

LOOKING NORTH-WEST FROM CERRETTA

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INSIDE CANTINA NERVI

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THE WINES GATTINARA 2018

“One of the most beautiful vintages in Gattinara” said Roberto barely containing his excitement…

This is the first “All Conterno” vintage in Gattinara, the property having been bought in April 2018.

The nose literally jumps out of the glass. Explosive red fruits, pungent and concentrated but also fresh, so intense but at the same time somehow elegant. A layer of spice evolves with air. There is a good tannic structure which sits in total harmony with the beautiful fruit. I have never tasted a Gattinara like it. This is so exciting. A must have, if only there were more.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030+ £275/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £595/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK £235/Case of 1 double magnum, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score. Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels.

It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

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BARBERA - 2019 VINTAGE The Barbera was picked at the end of September in its regular window. Roberto likened the vintage to 2015 & 2016 for Barbera (and potentially similar to 2021 which was just about to be picked when I visited). The main characteristic being a fast end to the ripening season. I love Barbera in general, loving the fruit and the refreshing acidity – few would argue that Roberto’s are at the pinnacle of the variety.

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BARBERA VIGNA CERRETTA

BARBERA VIGNA FRANCIA

2019

2019

I never tire of the way Cerretta stamps its signature on both Barbera and Nebbiolo. The 2019 is bright, lively and fresh, with lots of red fruits all combined with a lovely mellow structure. The persistance sits very comfortably with the medium body of the wine. The length is superb, definitely worth having a bottle of this in its youth.

The site here, whilst in the same commune, has more clay than Francia, or Arione for that matter. The fruit feels more plush, more cherry with some rhubarb and cranberry notes. Lovely.

Francia in 2019 has wonderful arterial colour and that vibrancy flows over into the nose and palate. The trademark salinity is there but slides into the background as air brings the deep yet fresh fruit forward. There is an air of juicy lushness but don’t be fooled there is “stuffing” aplenty here. The weight is a shade richer than Cerretta as ever. This feels and tastes like a wine that is very comfortable in itself. Worth a couple of years patience then you have quite a treat in store.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028+ £285/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2030+ £285/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £310/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

NEBBIOLO 2017 VINTAGE A lot has been written about 2017 in Piedmont and it is not a simple vintage but saying that the great producers and the great sites always come to the fore when things are less straightforward. The vintage was a hot one after an early start and some crop loss due to the same frost as hit Bordeaux and Burgundy in mid April.

May through to August was both warmer and drier than average and whilst this can be a problem the night-time temperatures did drop (a crucial difference to a vintage like 2003). A small amount of rain in September was perfectly timed to enliven the Nebbiolo. Harvest started in September rather than October so was 2-3 weeks advanced. So a vintage where selection and a gentle hand in winemaking were essential. I tasted these Barolos (as with the Barberas) from bottle and a little later than I would usually. They were expressive and exciting. It is wonderful to have the three “siblings” now.

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BAROLO ARIONE 2017

South facing site and always picked the first. A plush nose for a Conterno, a lovely breadth and quite a heady extrovert character. I loved the way the red/black fruit and structure vie for your attention. This has a wonderful ease about it, this may be early showiness and it will tighten up. A wonderful wine that it will be exciting to follow if you can keep bottles – no easy task. Splendid.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035+ £1,095/ case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £400/ case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

BAROLO CERRETTA

BAROLO FRANCIA

A clay-heavy soil, different from that of Francia or Arione, which leads to a more lush, fruited style. A western exposure too.

Drop dead gorgeous on the nose, this is so juicy and vivacious. There is such life here. As ever the fruit is a redpurple in character – cherry and wild strawberries, so very refined. As you always get with this site the drinking window will be vast. The length is so fine… exciting.

Wonderful nose, somehow less overtly primary. Soy and salty fruits, a lovely air of sweetness about this. Then there is more structure on the palate as expected. I am reminded of anchovies for some reason, that tell-tale salinity no doubt. This is such an “early and late” wine – beautiful and so complex now but with a wonderful capacity for fascinating maturity later. Grip and charm in equal measure, fruit and savoury battling it out. Quite some wine this.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034+

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2037+

£1,095/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £400/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

£1,095/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £400/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

2017

2017

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MONFORTINO 2015 A little about 2015. Winter 2014/2015 was marked by high levels of rain and snow, not a bad thing as it turned out.

The growing season got off to a quick start as we saw above with 2017. Budbreak and flowering were timed as usual. May and June saw rain, before temperatures began to rise markedly. Temperatures were then above average until mid-August when spells of rain came. Thereafter things progressed well and harvest was just a little early.

TASTING NOTE2013 The 2015 Monfortino sees some grapes from Arione included for the first time. This means that Monfortino is not just from Francia, which it has been since 1978. I remember two years ago tasting the botti of Arione that was earmarked for inclusion and thinking it wonderful.

After the 2017s this is immediately tighter, more compressed. Such incredible harmony at the same time, muscular but so refined and attractive, maybe handsome is the word. The fruit is so hard to define, so multilayered, so complex. There is a little sweet tobacco, tea and old leather as well to make this complete. Roberto sees some parallels with the 2008 and I completely get where he is coming from. This is a confident rather than showy wine with everything in the right place. Glorious.

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2040+ £1,995/case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,425/case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

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WHEN, HOW & WHAT TO DRINK NOW BARBERA In most vintages the Barbera wines drink best at 4-9 years of age. They become more savoury over time and continue to age (a 2001 Francia with Roberto was superb and 2008 & 2012 Cerretta recently were both great) but, as you would expect, have a less defined character and energy. The 2013, 2014 and 2015 vintages are very good now. As these are unfiltered and Barbera is a thick-skinned grape variety, I would recommend standing the wines up for a few hours and decanting 15-30 minutes before serving. The perfect wine to have at home for when you just want something delicious without breaking the bank and knowing you’ll get a great experience.

BAROLO & NEBBIOLO IN GENERAL 24

The warmer vintages drink very well when younger and served a shade cooler (13-15 degrees). The recent vintages in this bracket are 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2011. These will all improve but are ready to drink. I recommend continuing to cellar the 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2013 & 2014.

This is not me telling you what to do. It is my view on how you might approach drinking these wonderful wines. The wines from 2001 and before are ready to drink (according to your taste), though 2001 and 1999 continue to be youthful and are evolving gracefully. The Gattinara 2015, which like the 2017 in this offer contains the single vineyard wines, is delicious now though will age very well.

Sediment is less of an issue than with Barbera so I would either allow the wine to breathe standing up with half a glass removed (drunk!) or decant gently before serving. I far prefer the wine to warm gently and develop aromas in the glass so I, personally, do not advocate extended decanting, although some people do.

BAROLO RISERVA MONFORTINO Some vintages that I feel are drinking well now are 1997, 1998 & 2000. I would never put someone off drinking a younger vintage (especially 2002 because of the link to the 2014) as the enjoyment of watching a wine develop bottle by bottle from youth to full maturity is one of the real joys of wine. Younger vintages will require more time in the decanter.

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THE SENSORY GLASS The Sensory glass project was first conceived in July 2017 as a result of a discussion between Roberto and Zwiesel Kristallglas. Roberto had been asked by them to design a glass.

27 This is a project born of Roberto’s fanatical obsession with detail and the desire for his wines, and happily others’ to be enjoyed to maximum effect. The glasses are NOT designed as purely a glass for Nebbiolo and/or Barbera but for all wines (with the exception of sparkling – a problem Roberto is currently addressing – “Symphony” will join “Sensory” before long). They are designed to be very light but at the same time more sturdy than they may feel or look. They are available in both UK and Hong Kong. I have been extensively trialling the glass over the past year and think it is exceptional. Do not take my word alone for it though – you can see the glass being used more and more around the world – Charles Lachaux, another “detail man” insisted on it for the launch of his 2018s. (We have some now and we will be shipping more glasses in the coming months, pre-order now).

£293.70 inc vat per 6 glasses HK$2,600 per 6 glasses

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