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OLIVIER LEFLAIVE 2019 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR

“On sent la puissance et le caillou” “You feel the power and the stone” Franck Grux Technical Director, Olivier Leflaive

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

2019 VINTAGE

INTRODUCTION Olivier Leflaive needs little introduction to those in the wine world â€“ neither the man himself nor the Burgundy house he founded in 1984.

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780

Scion of a great winemaking family, disrupter, Lord of Misrule never far from a quip, Olivier’s surface gaieté belies exacting standards – of himself and others. Now in its fourth decade, the business he created has quietly forged an enviable reputation for quality and excellence – values that run through every aspect of the business, founded on sheer hard graft. While Olivier is now retired, his unwavering work ethic is upheld today by talented CEO Jean Soubeyrand, and equally evident in the dedication of technical team Franck Grux and Philippe Grillet, part of the fabric for many years. They handle the entire process of wine production. This involves managing relationships with the many loyal, family vignerons who have supplied the company across the decades, as well as Olivier’s own vineyards, amounting to some twenty hectares across the Côte de Beaune. Their knowledge of the land and its potential are boundless, and their approach inspirational in the vineyards and cellar alike. This is a process of constant and ongoing reappraisal – a ‘remise en question’ to borrow the French term, somehow more dynamic. For Franck and Philippe, the vines and wines are only ever a work in progress requiring proactive shepherding to keep them on the path to quality: a tweak here, an adjustment there, in pursuit of incremental gains worthy of an F1 race mechanic and similarly crucial to the outcome – the difference between good and the podium.

Quality is about balance but also a sense of place. One of the signature highlights of all Olivier Leflaive wines is their appealing approachability, while remaining true to the structure and substance of their appellation. This is partly a factor of ‘fraicheur’ - that all-important freshness borne of preserving acidities, not only to make the mouth water, but to give the wines their structural backbone. This is the anchor of the Olivier Leflaive style, brought into sharp focus by the 2019 vintage. This was a year when the combined - and compounding - effect of climatic ‘events’ through the growing season brought many growers to a cross-roads, requiring nail-biting decisions that would also challenge the status quo. Please read on for more insights into this exceptional year. Our relationship with Olivier Leflaive dates back decades. As the years have gone by, wines from certain appellations and lieux-dits have become favourites, with staff and customers alike. These preferences have created a unique range of wines, made exclusively for us from ‘our’ vineyard parcels, by Franck Grux and his team. Each spring, we go down to Puligny to taste the young wines from barrel (though this year, for the first time ever, due to covid-19, samples had to be sent to London) and commit to allocations straightaway. This allows us to secure the quantities we need, and to benefit from preferential prices, which we are then able to pass onto you.

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

Vineyards

2019 VINTAGE

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780

VINTAGE INSIGHTS 2019 is an extraordinary vintage, an anomale borne of climatic vagaries, each with their own specific impacts, as well as compounding those that came before. Frost, poor weather at flowering, fierce summer heat, severe drought: these factors, and the subsequent decisions taken by Franck Grux and his team, have yielded a small crop of ultra-concentrated grapes, charged with sugars but also acids – vital. The resulting wines are powerful in style, with generous fruit; rich in extract but vinous, retaining elegance. For those of you interested in the detail behind, here is the lowdown on the 2019 growing season. The dry winter of 2018-19 set the scene and presaged the theme of the vintage, which saw so many villages stricken by drought. Water reserves were in deficit way before the 2019 growing season even got into its stride. The first week of April heralded the first climatic ‘event’ of significance, in the form of a brutal spring frost on 5th April. As night-time temperatures plummeted, so did the hopes of vignerons across the region. Some growers were to lose half their crops overnight, while the Côte Châlonnaise was cruelly savaged yet again in a second frost a week later. Erratic weather conditions at flowering did not improve matters, resulting in widespread coulure (berries failing to ‘set’, and falling off the vine) and millerandage (grapes of different sizes, typically smaller, and ripening at different rates) and further crop reductions as a result. There can be upsides to these twin phenomena, of course – as time would tell. If this were not enough for growers to contend with, high summer brought further challenges. July and August were torrid and rain a distant memory. Without even the lightest of showers to refresh and restore, the parched vines wilted in the heat, and started to shut down, delaying the ripening process. Despite all this, the mood was relatively buoyant - the future crop (or at least, what was left of it!) looked highly promising from a quality point of view: admittedly there were far fewer grapes, and those that had made it this far

were small. But they were rich with sugars, and drought conditions had also preserved all-important acidity levels. By 20th August, the grapes appeared to be ripe and almost ready for picking, but – a rather significant but - something was missing; Franck and Philippe knew it, there was no getting around it. Yes, the sugars were there, the acids in balance, but the pips were still unripe, the skins astringent. And most important of all, to quote Franck’s culinary metaphor, the « cœur de cuisson » - ‘the heart of the dish’ was missing. So what should they do, custodians of the Olivier Leflaive style, driven by ‘fraicheur’, that all-defining freshness and lightness of touch? What decision should they make, which direction should they take? ‘Damned if you do, damned if you don’t’ ? Or ‘who dares wins’ ? Harvest the grapes unripe, in favour of keeping alcohols in check? Or push back, pray for clear skies in a bid for that elusive ‘heart of the dish’ borne of ‘phenolic’ ripeness, but at the expense of...? ‘Je ne sais quoi!’ shrugged Franck, ‘it was a risk of sorts’, but a calculated risk: while the grapes were rich in sugar, acids were concentrated too. So, to cut a long story short, delay they did – sometimes by a few days, in other cases by over two weeks! The weather held, the grapes ripened obediently, and the pickers went into the vineyards finally on 11th September. The fruit was harvested in pristine condition. Of course, by this time the grapes had accumulated more sugars, which would nudge up alcohol levels. Crucially however, acids remained high also - essential for balance. We are often asked for comparisons with other vintages. This is always something of a challenge at this stage, when the wines are so young, and particularly in this year of anomalies. Franck Grux alludes to 2016, the recent frost vintage and similarly low-yielding, while the wines have the generosity of 2009 or 2015. But the structural backbone is quite different, recalling something of 2010. Perhaps the vintage is best expressed by Franck Grux, when he says ‘on sent la puissance et le caillou’ – ‘you feel the power and the stone’.

REBECCA PALMER August 2020

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

CHABLIS Chablis 2019 will deliver some exceptional wines – from the right hands. Skill and experience have produced expressive wines, concentrated but contained, with marked regional typicity.

Yields were down, due in some cases to spring frost (even if less disastrous here than in the Côte de Beaune), to poor weather at flowering, and to drought conditions through summer. While August was slightly cooler, bringing respite, September sent sugars soaring in a swell of heat. The fruit sped to ripeness, taking many by surprise. Harvest teams were swiftly scrambled, to ensure the grapes were picked at the right time, preserving the vital acidities at the core of all classic Chablis. While both Les Deux Rives and Vaudésir have a certain ‘gourmand’ quality this year, they remain resolutely Chablis in style; pure and mineral with the acid backbone of the appellation.

2019 VINTAGE

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CHABLIS LES DEUX RIVES Les Deux Rives is the fruit of six different vineyards on either side of the river Serein (hence its name, translating as The Two Banks). In the context of Chablis, Les Deux Rives is approachable in style, paying due attention to its origins while avoiding austerity. The 2019 vintage is beautifully balanced, immediately enticing with its white flower scent and silky texture, flooding the palate with minerals cut with incisive acids. As usual the vast majority of the grapes were fermented in stainless steel tanks at cool temperatures, underscoring the lithe chablisien profile, but Franck decided to ferment a small percentage in large old oak barrels, to enhance texture and complexity. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2024 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £155/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CHABLIS GRAND CRU VAUDÉSIR Vaudésir’s impressive amphitheatre vineyard curves around a steep slope, atop Grenouilles. Its unique topography shields the vines from northerly winds and promotes even ripening. The soils here are different to many other grands crus, richer in clay than limestone, and are key to Vaudésir’s profile, known for a certain femininity and mineral delicacy. This warmer year has yielded a seductive Vaudésir, but with the refinement of its climat. Immediately evocative with its light jasmine scent, the wine is generous but elegant, its baked pear fruit layered with light buttercream. Concentrated and poised with a long mineral finish. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5-19 Recommended drinking from 2021–2025 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £259/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EMAIL

sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

CÔTE DE BEAUNE While the Côte de Beaune spans a considerable distance and encompasses so many villages and sites, frost and flowering issues were a common theme this year, compounded by heat and drought. Yields are small: at best 50% of a ‘normal’ vintage and in most cases closer to 30-40%.

Meticulous vineyard management throughout the growing season - and the nerve-wracking decision to delay picking - were to pay dividends for the Olivier Leflaive team. The grapes were harvested in pristine condition, the skins and pips brought to perfect ripeness, while acidities were similarly concentrated, a factor of the drought. While alcohol levels are a little higher this year 13.5-14% - the fruit has the depth and structure to match, finely tuned by bright acids.

2019 VINTAGE

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BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ

PERNAND-VERGELESSES

Olivier Leflaive’s Aligoté is the fruit of seven vineyard parcels in Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Corpeau. The vintage delivered just half a ‘normal’ crop – a rather slight 30 hectolitres per hectare! Small and concentrated, the grapes have delivered a generous, sunny style. The wine is clean and uplifting, its supple, lemon-cream palate boosted this year by a judicious (delicious!) proportion of barrel fermentation (15%), finishing with a twist of almond.

‘Poor man’s Corton-Charlemagne’, goes the phrase, and in richer vintages, Pernand-Vergelesses comes into its own. Olivier Leflaive’s Pernand is a blend of four exceptional parcels, all on hallowed, sloping terrain. Concentrated naturally by frost, heat and drought, the fruit this year is powerful and expansive, scented and rich, but held in check as always by the site’s stony tension. The wine is an exercise in elegance, intriguingly androgynous and quite compelling.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2023 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2025 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021

£97/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £135/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

BOURGOGNE BLANC LES SÉTILLES

SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU EN RÉMILLY

A quintessential Bourgogne Blanc, Olivier Leflaive’s Sétilles is a classic - the Côte d’Or in a glass. The ‘secret recipe’, known only to a select few, is based on fruit from parcels across Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, with a dash of other exceptional sources (the exact proportions of which I am aware, and will consider divulging in exchange for a case or two...). One of the star wines of the vintage, the wine is expressive and rich, silky on the palate with fine, scintillating acids.

En Rémilly sits high on the plateau above PulignyMontrachet, exposed to the elements. The vineyard suffered catastrophic losses in 2019’s early April frosts, compounded by flowering difficulties, but this ‘natural pruning’ has created a delicious wine - richer this year but still utterly poised and precise. Supple pear fruit, fresh macadamia nuts and buttercream are held firm within the wine’s filigree structure, reflecting its exceptional, stony site.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2023 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2024+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021

£159/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£350/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

ALSO AVAILABLE IN BARREL: £3,500, IN BOND UK

AUXEY-DURESSES LA MACABRÉE

SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU DENTS DE CHIEN

One of the unexpected stars of this small, concentrated vintage, La Macabrée vineyard offers up a jewel akin to a village Meursault, with its classic structure, supple curve and mineral length. One of the charms of atypical vintages like 2019 is the spotlight they can shine on quieter sites, giving them a voice. Treat your inner geek to a viticultural map of Burgundy, a bird’s eye view of its appellations and ‘named’ vineyards - ‘lieux-dits’ as they are known in French. In this complex Burgundian patchwork, gems can be found in the seams between bright sites. Who knew La Macabrée lies so close to Meursault’s Vireuils and Meix Chavaux?

Dents de Chien is a fantastic vineyard parcel, giving wines with a certain darkness and mineral focus. The site fell victim to the frost this year - despite vignerons’ valiant attempts to protect the vines, smudgepots were no match for the severity of Mother Nature’s chill. The resulting crop was minuscule (half that of a ‘usual’ vintage), but exceptional in quality. One of the star wines of the vintage, Dents de Chien enthrals with its exotic scent, sensuous orchard fruit and dark mineral length.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2025 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £260/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2024+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £350/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

2019 VINTAGE

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES MEIX

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES REFERTS

Les Meix is an exceptional lieu-dit, its wines somehow a cut above its village status. In fact, the parcel lies a stone’s throw down the slope from Pucelles, their boundaries mere yards apart. Warmer years can blur such lines, and special sites yield wines that shine. Les Meix 2019 is certainly impressive, more powerful than any recent vintage, but no less elegant with its silky long-line fruit, stony minerals and iodine tang.

‘In this Referts we find the heart of Puligny, in all its power and stone’ exclaimed Franck Grux, of this wine. ‘Et voilà, this is why we had to wait [to pick]’. The decision to delay harvesting has paid off – this is a thrilling Referts, harmonious and ‘complete’. Emphatically Puligny this year in structure and substance, the wine is immediately expressive on entry, halting momentarily on the midpalate, tension gathering before the charge of minerals floods the mouth. Sophisticated and refined, everything in its place.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2025 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £265/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 19+ Recommended drinking from 2022–2025+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2022

ALSO AVAILABLE FOR BARREL PURCHASE AT £11,550, IN BOND UK. £335/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £695/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK ALSO AVAILABLE FOR BARREL PURCHASE AT £14,650, IN BOND UK

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET LES BLANCHOTS

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU ABBAYE DE MORGEOT

The Blanchots vineyard took just twenty minutes to pick this year, the crop was so pitifully small. In fact just two barrels were made! This is a vineyard with impeccable pedigree, an insider’s secret. Abutting Criots-BâtardMontrachet and a mere stone’s throw from Bâtard, Blanchots has something of its neighbours’ class and dimension, particularly in an exceptional year like 2019. Tantalising with its jasmine scent and silky smooth fruit, the wine is powerful, poised and lissom as a dancer.

The Abbaye de Morgeot is one of a handful of wines labelled Récolte du Domaine, from vineyards owned by Olivier himself. In 2019, this outstanding parcel was particularly hit by frost and flowering issues, giving fewer grapes and an unusually high incidence of millerandage. The tiny berries that made it this far, took their time to ripen, yielding just 23 hl/ha, enough for just a few barrels. Creamy, powerful and precise, Morgeot stands alone in this atypical vintage, timeless in its handsome structure. The epitome of a grand vin. Limited availabililty.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2025 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021

Corney & Barrow Score 19+ Recommended drinking from 2022–2025+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2022

£225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £330/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £685/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

MEURSAULT CLOS DU CROMIN

MEURSAULT 1ER CRU PORUZOTS

Clos du Cromin is in many ways an atypical Meursault - more elegant than opulent, its fruit-acid tension more akin in some ways to Puligny. In this low-yielding year, the wine is particularly stylish, immediately enticing with its white flower scent and core of firm pear fruit. The palate is silky and all-enveloping, refreshed with incisive acids, long on the finish.

This stunning wine is another Récolte du Domaine, in fact the Poruzots parcel was Olivier’s first ever vineyard acquisition, a strip of vines running down the mid-slope, outstanding in aspect. Farmed organically, the vineyard is naturally lower-yielding, even more so in this year of frost and millerandage. The minuscule crop of petite grapes produced just five barrels, fewer even than the legendary frost year of 2016. Poruzots 2019 is an extraordinary wine in depth and dimension; opulent and expressive, underpinned by rich, concentrated acidities. Just a few cases available.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020–2024 Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2022–2025+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2022 £330/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £685/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

CÔTE CHÂLONNAISE The Côte Châlonnaise was hit hard by 2019’s spring frosts, first on 5th April then again on 13th-14th, the wave that also struck Chablis, the Mâconnais and the Pinot Noirs of the southern Côte d’Or.

Cool, wet conditions in the immediate aftermath did not improve matters either, and it took the vines a while longer to rebound. As a result, yields are lower this year, as they are everywhere: growers lost between forty and sixty percent of their crops and had to work hard to preserve balance. Site and harvest date were both critical. Better sites with a favourable exposition have yielded delicious wines. We are longstanding followers of Olivier Leflaive’s Montagny and Rully premiers crus, excellent examples of ‘classical’ white Burgundy at a comparatively approachable pricepoint. The wines are a delight in this concentrated vintage: subtly scented, gently creamy with curve and tone, light on their feet nonetheless.

2019 VINTAGE

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MONTAGNY 1ER CRU BONNEVEAUX There is a certain sunny energy to wines from this special, south-facing slope. In fact, in many ways Bonneveaux is a perfect all-round white Burgundy, a ‘goldilocks’ of a wine, from every angle ‘just right’: the fruit just ripe and expressive enough, the palate creamy but lightly so; the oak in judicious measure. This year’s Bonneveaux turns the volume up a bit but retains its perfect proportion. Richer and more concentrated but no less dynamic, its refreshing acidities balance creamy comice pear. The finish lingers long, laced with jasmine scent. Goldilocks never had it so good. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2024+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £220/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK ALSO AVAILABLE IN BARREL AT £4,800 IN BOND UK.

RULLY 1ER CRU VAUVRY 15 In some years and skilled hands, Rully premier cru can remind of Puligny – there is something in the structure and profile: the creamy fruit and fresh acids, nutskin and minerals, the sense of direction. The 2019 is one such year, thanks no doubt to truly minuscule yields – just 15 hectolitres per hectare! Small is beautiful in this case. Instantly alluring with its white flower scent, Vauvry has appealing curves on the mid-palate, a texture smooth as satin and a long, mineral finish. Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021–2024+ Estimated arrival UK: Spring 2021 £198 /CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EMAIL

sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

2019 VINTAGE

YOUR OWN BARREL OF OLIVIER LEFLAIVE’S WINES Despite the challenges of the 2019 vintage and the smaller harvest that ensued, the team at Olivier Leflaive has agreed to allocate a few additional barriques, for us to be able to honour our ever-popular barrel offer. This means you can buy an entire barrel, and benefit from additional savings on standard offer prices per case. A barrel contains 228 litres of wine, equivalent to 25 cases of 12 bottles (and la part des anges – the angel’s share!).

In addition, those of you taking advantage of this special offer will be treated by Olivier to an overnight stay at his award-winning 4-star hotel in Puligny-Montrachet, La Maison d’Olivier. The hotel and restaurant look sumptuous now, having re-opened in the last few weeks after considerable renovations and a stunning extension. So you can look forward to lovely new guestrooms and additional facilities. Furthermore during your stay you will have the rare opportunity of a private tasting with Olivier or his specialist wine team, when you will be able to taste your own wine as it matures. This year the barrel offer comprises some of our all-time favourites: Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles, Montagny 1er Cru Les Bonneveaux, Puligny-Montrachet Les Meix and, exceptionally, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts. Some of you have asked whether it might be possible to buy the barrel itself, once your wines have been bottled and to have it shipped to you at the same time. We are pleased to confirm that this can be arranged at a purchase price of approx £130 including delivery costs – these will vary depending on delivery location.

Olivier and team have selected the following wines for purchase by the barrel this year.

BOURGOGNE BLANC LES SÉTILLES BARREL PRICE £3,500, IN BOND UK EQUIVALENT CASE PRICE: £140/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES (FROM £159)

MONTAGNY 1ER CRU LES BONNEVEAUX BARREL PRICE £4,800, IN BOND UK EQUIVALENT CASE PRICE: £180/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES (FROM £220)

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES MEIX BARREL PRICE £11,550, IN BOND UK EQUIVALENT CASE PRICE: £231/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES (FROM £265)

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES REFERTS BARREL PRICE £14,650, IN BOND UK EQUIVALENT CASE PRICE: £293/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES (FROM £335) IF YOU PREFER YOUR CASE OF LES REFERTS TO BE BOTTLED IN MAGNUM, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR SALESPERSON

Terms & Conditions: All prices are quoted in bond, UK. The barrel price equates to 25 cases of 12 bottles (75cl). All barrel purchases are to be made to a single title-older with a single invoice and single delivery address. The barrel price includes one night’s accommodation free of charge, off-season. Accommodation is a double or twin room at La Maison d’Olivier, Place du Monument, Puligny-Montrachet. www.maison-olivierleflaive.fr. Cost of transport to the hotel is not included. The visit and tasting should be completed within 18 months of purchase.

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO ORDER PLEASE CALL 020 7265 2430

To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com

INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780

OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

2019 VINTAGE

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