WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN, 2019 & 2017 EN PRIMEUR

WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017 EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UK

“I have rarely seen a vintage like 2019. After 15 years of biodynamic cultivation, the vines gave us the most wonderful grapes. Simply a great year for Riesling.”

STEFFEN CHRISTMANN, NOVEMBER 2020

WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

INTRODUCTION In the introduction to last year’s offer (see HERE) I told the full happy story of how we came to be representing Christmann.

It came about during a trip that was all about the fun of wine – the camaraderie of it all. Whilst getting together is something that is very restricted right now it is what wine should be all about. I say this because it feels like I have known Steffen and Sophie for ages and yet it is only 18 months or so.

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When you get on so well with the people behind a wine you wonder if your judgement is clouded, there’s a “Wine & Psychology” thesis right there. So, on each of the many times this last year that I have opened a bottle of Christmann – Riesling or Pinot – I have had a slight apprehension. Will it be as good as I think? As I want it to be? The thing is that every time I am relieved, reassured and excited – I love these wines and you will too. Maybe I should say “I-dig the wines” (sorry, couldn’t resist!).

Don’t just take my, or Guy who has done the real work here with the splendid notes, word for it as the estate has just won two of Germany’s very highest wine accolades: ‘Winemaker of the Year‘ in the Vinum Wine Guide 2021. Moreover, the 2019 Idig Riesling was awarded the ‘Best Riesling of the Year’- receiving the highest score ever awarded for a dry Riesling.

To get a real sense for the estate I thoroughly recommend a full read of the offer, following Steffen and Sophie on Instagram (easily found) and possibly a read of my write up of an Idig vertical (HERE).

I really can’t urge you strongly enough to get involved with these wines now – greatness is here, some people just don’t know yet!

WILL HARGROVE Head of Fine Wine, November 2020

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“This latest offering from the Pfalz based Christmann winery is spectacular, a hugely exciting line-up of wines opening with their outstanding, elegant and bone-dry Rieslings which display a striking purity of fruit. The Pinot Noirs that followed are glorious, nuanced wines with layers of red berry fruit and sweet spice complemented by ripe tannins and refreshing acidity; serious wines that undoubtedly rival Pinot Noirs from anywhere.”

GREG REID, ACCOUNT MANAGER, SCOTLAND

WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

A BRIEF HISTORY The estate of 20 hectares dates back to 1798. The recent history is one of grandfather, father and daughter.

Steffen (father and president of the VDP “on the side”) has 25 years of experience at the estate.

Sophie (daughter) has been with the estate for over a year now, having studied at Geisenheim and gained

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experience in wineries around the world. She is involved in all areas of the estate but it is fair to say she has a particular focus on the Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir).

Both Steffen and Sophie are still supported by Fritz (grandfather) who celebrates turning 90 this year.

These three winemaking generations are the family’s 7th, 8th and 9th.

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THE REGION The Upper Rhine Valley in southwestern Germany has an almost Mediterranean climate. The Palatinate region, within which Pfalz lies, is half an hour from Strasbourg and an hour from Frankfurt.

Legende VDP.ERSTE LAGE The ® Christmann winery is in the village of Gimmeldingen in the centre of the Mittelhaart VDP.GROSSE LAGE ® area, with the Haardt Mountains as a protective backdrop. It is a stunning part of the world with a patchwork of vineyards, akin to Burgundy in many ways.

Neues Projekt Vogelsang

Langenmorgen

Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Legende VDP.ERSTE LAGE ® VDP.GROSSE LAGE ® Neues Projekt Vogelsang

DEIDESHEIM

Reiterpfad-Hofstück

RUPPERTSBERG Ruppertsberger Spiess

Langenmorgen Deidesheimer Königsbacher Ölberg-Hart „Kapelle“ Paradiesgarten Ölberg

GIMMELDINGEN Ölberg-Hart „Kapelle“

RUPPERTSBERG Ruppertsberger

Gimmeldinger Spiess Kapellenberg

Königsbacher

Meerspinne Ölbergim Mandelgarten

Idig MUSSBACH Gimmeldinger VogelsangBiengarten

GIMMELDINGEN NEUSTADT

an der Weinstraße

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Reiterpfad-Hofstück

Idig Gimmeldinger Biengarten

DEIDESHEIM

Gimmeldinger Kapellenberg Meerspinne im Mandelgarten

WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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VINEYARDS AND CELLAR

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Guy has covered individual holdings in his excellent tasting notes below so I will not repeat this here. In the vineyards themselves the work is done in harmony with nature – no herbicides, insecticides or synthetic fungicides. The estate has been certified biodynamic since 2002.

In the cellar nothing is left to chance. The freshly squeezed juices run into the barrels without further intervention.

Once inside, the natural yeasts from the vineyard sites start the fermentation. There is no fining. Only a racking off the lees and a very gentle filtration are required at bottling time.

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

THE LEVELS As we are dealing exclusively with dry wines here, the hierarchy is more straightforward than it may sometimes appear with German wines. It may be lazy to draw parallels but there are many with Burgundy. This is both in terms of hierachy and the fact that wines can be declassified by a tier, should a producer so wish.

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A B C D A - VDP Grosse Lage (think grand cru – e.g. Chambertin) B - VDP Ertse Lage (think premier cru – e.g. Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru) C - VDP Ortswein (think village – e.g. Gevrey-Chambertin Villages) D - VDP Gutswein (think regional – e.g. Bourgogne Rouge)

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WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

THE WINES Notes by Guy Seddon In this year’s release, the Rieslings are from the 2019 vintage, whilst the Pinot Noirs, made by Sophie Christmann, are from the 2017 vintage.

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WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

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THE 2019 VINTAGE: RIESLING “The 2019 vintage will certainly be counted among the very great vintages for German wine. Just like the great years of 2001 or 1990, very promising.”

SOPHIE CHRISTMANN, OCTOBER 2020 15 The following is based on a vintage report sent to us by Sophie Christmann. 2019 was described by Sophie as “a year in which almost everything went perfectly, but also a year of many surprises, of new challenges and even more opportunities.”

The growing season opened without drama, with the awakening of the vines at the end of April. Periods of warm weather alternated with cooler, rainy ones, so that the estate’s soils were well supplied with water.

After more than 15 years of biodynamic cultivation, the soils here are very rich in humus and microorganisms and thus store enough water to supply the vines, even in drier years.

Flowering was rather late. Except for two or three short heat waves with temperatures exceeding 35°C, summer was fairly normal. The cool month of September, with its cold nights, made for what Sophie calls “exceptionally

tasty grapes, full of fruit and fine acidity.” The yields were below average, resulting in even greater concentration.

The goal here is to harvest naturally ripe grapes which still taste crisp. To be able to pick everything in this short, optimum ripening window, a big team is needed.

The Christmann harvest team is now one of the largest in Pfalz, much larger than the norm for a relatively small family operation.

Because of approaching rain, everything was harvested in just 15 days, all perfectly selected by hand. This is one of the keys to achieving the highest possible quality terroir wines, without fining or treatment, without compromise.

Sophie encapsulates the 2019s as “wines of fantastic freshness and minerality, spicy and playful – long, dense and yet dancing in perfect harmony.”

“German dry Riesling is one of the wine world’s undervalued treasures.”

JANCIS ROBINSON, THE FINANCIAL TIMES, OCTOBER 2020

WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

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Sophie and Steffen Christmann

GUTSWEIN

ORTSWEIN

PFALZ RIESLING 2019

RUPPERTSBERG RIESLING 2019

In Burgundian terms, this is the ‘Bourgogne Blanc’ of the line-up (if Steffen and Sophie will forgive us the Francophile C&B point of reference). Flinty and with a nice struck-rock line of minerality on the nose and an insistent white pear fruit ripeness behind. The palate is open and inviting, succulent pear and peach hinting at the warmth of the 2019 summer. Refreshingly low 11.5% abv.

The Ruppertsberg Riesling is classified as an Ortswein (the level below Erste Lage), although it comes from two higher-quality vineyards: Reiterpfad (Grosse Lage) and Ruppertsberger Nussbien (Erste Lage). A bit like making a village-level Burgundy by blending a premier and grand cru! The grapes here are picked slightly later, making for a riper style. Pleasingly plush and apricot-fruited on the nose, with a flinty crushed-rock mineral counterpoint.

The palate is juicy and ingratiating, really wrapping its arms around you, with orange zest and grapefruit on the finish. 12% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £85/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030+ £110/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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GIMMELDINGEN RIESLING 2019

KÖNIGSBACH RIESLING 2019

This is another Ortswein, again picked in the second and third passes through the vineyard, produced from two young sites in Gimmeldingen: Kapellenberg and Biengarten, both Erste Lagen. So again, in Burgundian terms we effectively have a village wine made from a blend of premiers crus. Wet-stone minerality and peachy fruit on the nose. The palate is finely chiselled on the entry, with a warming fruit apricot-fruited ripeness to the mid-palate, making for a friendly, cushioned wine which benefits from the rigour of a steely backbone of acidity. 12% abv.

This Königsbach Riesling Ortswein comes from the younger vines of Christmann’s Grosse Lage Monopole, Idig. The fruity ebullience of the previous wines is replaced by something altogether more serious here – flinty and citrus-fruited, clipped. The palate is broader and more giving, with a stone-fruited plushness and a ripe, pliant green melon cushioning. Finishes very dry and precise, with steely acidity, great. 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030+ £115/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030+ £125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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ERSTE LAGEN

RUPPERTSBERGER SPIESS RIESLING 2019 The Erste Lage Spiess lies on a hillside overlooking Deidesheim. The name comes from the vineyard’s shape, which resembles a spearhead, ‘Spiess’ meaning spear in German. White pepper and limey green citrus on the nose, very taut and with a little nutty richness. The palate is very precise, almost stark on the entry, with a phenomenal sense of dry extract but not much flesh on the bone as yet. Not a wine for the faint-hearted at this early stage – squirrel this away and enjoy it in 5+ years’ time. 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2036+ £160/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GIMMELDINGER KAPELLENBERG RIESLING 2019 18

Kapellenberg, in Gimmeldigen, forms the southeast slope of a vineyard situated high in the foothills of the Haardt mountain range. A chapel below the vineyard gives the site its name. Chalky and lemony on the nose, this 2019 is leaner and more sculpted than last year’s offering.

The palate is sherbety and with a starkly tensile line of acidity which skewers, rather savagely at present, the nascent taut citrus fruit. Clipped stony minerality adds complexity. Excellent – statuesque, with a long life ahead.

12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2036 £160/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

KÖNIGSBACHER OLBERG RIESLING 2019 Listed in the Royal Bavarian Soil Survey of 1828 as one of the top sites in Pfalz, the pedigree of this Erste Lage site is effortlessly apparent. As last year, this has a lovely flintymineral nose, immediately announcing it as Something Special… On the palate, wonderfully poised ripe citrus and apricot emerges, with a lemony core of acidity sustaining the fruit flavours without dominating. Zesty lime and saline mineral definition on the finish. This is a pick! 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034+ £170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

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Sophie, Steffen and Winemaker Oskar Micheletti

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

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GROSSE LAGEN – THE “GG”s Grosses Gewächs, or GG, is a German term for the highest quality tier of dry wines, which come from Grosse Lage sites (similar to Burgundy’s Grands Crus).

REITERPFAD HOFSTÜCK RIESLING GG 2019

IDIG KÖNIGSBACH RIESLING GG 2019

The Grosse Lage Hofstück im Reiterpfad site is situated on the hillside directly overlooking Deidesheim. The name Hofstück derives from the Prince Archbishop of Speyer, Lord of Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg, the former owner of the site. Now that we are in ‘GG territory’, there is a corresponding step up in richness and complexity. There is also a notch more colour saturation in the glass. The nose here is multi-faceted – steely citrus, orange blossom and rocky minerality. The palate has a greater depth of extract and sense of stony mineral presence, alongside the ripe lemon fruit and concentrated lime cordial. A young wine starting out on a long life. 12.5% abv.

The Grosse Lage Idig, a Christmann monopole, is one of the most highly-rated sites in the Pfalz. The aromas here make you sigh in disbelief – this combines the rigour of the previous wines with a loveliness and approachability which could win over the hardest of hearts. The palate simply brims with confidence and assertiveness – white peach, apricot and, once those recede, the finest mineral texture, all shot through with a steely core of acidity. A long, driving finish rounds off a wine which may be as close to a perfect dry Riesling as many of us are likely to get. 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2040

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2046 £330/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£280/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MEERSPINNE IM MANDELGARTEN RIESLING GG 2019 Meerspinne is a Grosse Lage sub-plot of Mandelgarten, dating back to 1456. In those days, this site was known for outstanding yield potential; today it is considered the best plot in Gimmeldingen. Compared to some of its 2019 stable-mates, this is quieter and more reticent on the nose. However, the palate delivers in spades, with an upfront rush of exuberant, concentrated tangy lemon and lime zest. Very much still in the citrus realm though, with the merest hint of stone-fruited breadth, which will no doubt emerge once the steely acidity relaxes its vicelike grip. Uncompromising and very, very impressive.

12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2040+ £310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

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WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

THE 2017 VINTAGE: PINOT NOIR

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2017 marks a beginning of sorts at the estate, being Sophie Christmann’s first vintage fully in charge of the Pinot Noir. It was, in her words, “the first year I put all my ideas for red winemaking into practice.”

Based on her experience in France and Baden, Germany, Sophie introduced some winemaking changes with this first vintage. These included larger fermentation tanks and a greater reliance on pumping over rather than punching down, as well as shorter post-fermentation maceration and less new oak. Or to put it another way, she modernised the estate’s winemaking, prioritising delicacy of fruit and aroma. In doing so, she has also allowed the terroir to shine.

Some 30% whole bunch fermentation was employed in 2017, resulting in an aromatically lifted, gently spiced character which is also on the rise in Burgundy – and which we love when done well, as here.

Sophie relates that “2017 yielded ripe but not overripe grapes – elegant, with fine acidity.” The warm summer was followed by a cool September, the latter ensuring presence and tannic structure, whilst the latter safeguarded the aromas.

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RIESLING 2019 WITH SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

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PFALZ SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

GIMMELDINGER BIENGARTEN SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

This comes from vineyards around Gimmeldingen. The grapes are destemmed and spend one year in barrel.

Cranberry and raspberry fruit on the nose, with a herby lift, a sense of wet earth and a touch of cedar. Very red fruited on the medium bodied palate, with marked undergrowth and a persistent fruit ripeness on the finish.

A great early drinker. 12.5% abv. The traditional fluteshaped bottle underscores the elegance rather perfectly.

This Erste Lage vineyard consists of steep terraces in the Haardt hills between Gimmeldingen and Königsbach. The site is protected from cold winds by a small hollow in the hillside. An expressive, raspberry-laden nose, with cedar and sweet spices. The palate is darker-fruited, winter berries, nuanced undergrowth and bitter chocolate. As I said last year, this is ‘more Côte-de-Nuits than Beaune’ – if that helps... 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2031

£105/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£235/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GIMMELDINGEN SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

KÖNIGSBACHER ÖLBERG SPÄTBURGUNDER 2017

This is voluntarily declassified as an Orstwein, although it comes from the earlier ripening grapes of an old-vined Erste Lage site in Kapellenberg. A step up in intensity and definition on the nose, firm raspberry fruit and cedary spice. The palate is both supple and substantial on the attack, with fine grippy tannins asserting themselves on the mid-palate. A refreshing 12.5% abv.

Ölberg is a high, sloping Erste Lage site in Königsbach, recognised as one of the best in Pfalz. It benefits from morning sun and late afternoon shade. As at IDIG (below), limestone marl and the brown earth known as ‘terra fusca’ predominate, with red sandstone. A very purefruited nose of raspberry and tomato leaf, then a little peppery spice. Succulent red berries on the palate, with a persistent fruit ripeness and rather beautiful fruit-coated tannins. This is the first time we have offered this wine and it’s something of a favourite already. 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £145/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2031 £210/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

IDIG SPÄTBURGUNDER GG 2017 The Grosse Lage Idig vineyard is one of the most highlyrated sites in the Palatine region and is a Christmann monopole, making this the flagship holding of the estate.

A multifaceted nose, of dried herbs, pulling towards the savoury end of the spectrum – thyme and rosemary – with some spicy tea-leaf lift. The palate is ethereally delicate on the entry, power and substance building through the raspberry-infused mid-palate, all held together with a sappy, saline tension. The tannins are remarkably resolved and fine, allowing for a long, nuanced finish. 12.5% abv.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2030+ £375/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

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