Domaine Trapet 2018 Vintage En Primeur

DOMAINE TR APET 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

“Jean-Louis Trapet has entered a purple patch in recent years, his wines better than ever.”

NEAL MARTIN, VINOUS

DOMAINE TRAPET

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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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Louis, Pierre, Jean and Jean-Louis Trapet. Credit BOURGOGNE AUJOURD’HUI - N°155

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

DOMAINE TR APET 2018 Jean-Louis Trapet has chosen to move to a late release format as of this year, meaning these are his 2018s.

Releasing wines for sale only once bottled is a qualityled decision, so far taken by relatively few top Burgundy domaines – among them in the ‘C&B stable’ are Domaine Roty and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. It means that the wines come to market at a stage of development which is much easier to assess. Good news for wine lovers.

the incentive to sell are greater than ever. All the more refreshing to see a redoubling of family involvement here, with Jean-Louis’s sons Pierre (born 1992) and Louis (1994) becoming more active. Whilst they have been focused on their mother Andrée’s Domaine Trapet in Alsace since 2017, they are very much the future of both estates.

Whilst the worlds of global commerce and wine are increasingly entwined in the Côte d’Or, there is a healthy independent streak at Domaine Trapet (which, as an independent wine merchant, we naturally applaud). Jean Trapet, patriarch of the domaine since 1950 and father to the incumbent, Jean-Louis, says he is “very worried by the arrival amongst our vines of magnates of industry and finance.”

The domaine’s holdings are pretty much as good as it gets in and around Gevrey-Chambertin. While the grands and premiers crus understandably grab the headlines, the quality and pure fruited drive of the wines from the village holdings, in both Gevrey and Marsannay, has never been better. To get a proper picture of the estate in all its crystalline biodynamic glory, you simply can’t miss these.

Although family domaines are thankfully not yet the exception in Burgundy, land values and consequently

We are proud to be the exclusive UK agent of Domaine Trapet.

GUY SEDDON November 2020

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DOMAINE TRAPET

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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

THE 2018 GROWING SEASON “The 2018 vintage is unique and will remain inscribed in the annals of winemaking as the forces that created it were so contrasting and extreme.”

JEAN-LOUIS TRAPET, JULY 2020

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This overview of the season is a synthesis of a supremely detailed report sent to us by Jean-Louis Trapet.

week ahead of 2003, which Jean-Louis calls “the absolute reference point in terms of precocity.”

Another early year...

The first flowers appeared from 20th May. Flowering was “dazzling, stimulated by a bright and radiant luminosity.”

Jean-Louis recalls the stories of his grandfather Louis who recounted that in 1893, his grandfather, another Louis, had started picking in Chambolle-Musigny on 25th August. More recently, 2003 gave Jean-Louis a taste of intense summer heat, resulting in a very early harvest.

By contrast, he describes 2018 as “infinitely more balanced”.

The conditions at the end of the 2017 harvest were idyllic: bright skies until November, when “continuous rain” started, which lasted until the end of March. During the winter, the estate received 500mm of water – over 140mm more than normal.

This rainfall sketched the first outline of what would turn out to be an exceptional vintage. These water reserves proved the making of the vintage during the summer heat.

Pruning, through to the end of March, was constantly disrupted by the humidity in the air. Application of the 500P biodynamic preparation allowed the growing season to begin calmly, but the soil was saturated with water. It was therefore necessary to wait until mid-April to carry out work on the soil.

By the end of April, the season was already more than a

Mildew was a threat, particularly at the end of May, when 130mm of water “submerged Gevrey”, but was fought off by meticulous vineyard work. Damage was limited, but volume was sacrificed. In Jean-Louis’ words, “The enemy is a very good teacher: nature compensates for the original fertility of 2018.” As always, the silver lining of crop loss is a natural concentration.

The weather improved from early June, with anticyclonic conditions finally settling permanently and a penetrating northern breeze chasing away the last clouds. From then on, until harvest, the Côte de Nuits was warm, on occasion intensely so. However, temperatures were not as high as in 2003, when grapes withered in July.

The risk now was that this lack of water would weaken the vines. Abandoning the idea of leaf thinning, the team turned its attention to “infinitely gentle care: herbal teas, soothing camomile treatments, biodynamic preparations, horn dung... nothing seemed too much to us for our vines.”

In mid-July, a few storms finally visited Gevrey. Just what was needed. Ripening progressed quickly. Picking started on 5th September, under excellent conditions.

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

7 Jean-Louis Trapet, ready to administer some biodynamic treatment. Credit Jon Wyand

THE HOLDINGS HECTARES

PLANTED

Chambertin

Grand Cru

1.90

1919*

Latricières-Chambertin

Grand Cru

0.75

1938*

Chapelle-Chambertin

Grand Cru

0.60

1945*

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur

Premier Cru

0.40

1965

Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Premier Cru

0.40

1965

Gevrey-Chambertin

Village

3.00

1913*

Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea

Village

2.50

1913*

Marsannay Rouge

Village

1.50

1979

Marsannay Blanc

Village

0.50

1979

Various

Bourgogne

3.85

Various

* Refers to original date of planting, although due to the age of these plots, a significant number of vines have been replanted.

DOMAINE TRAPET

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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

2018 TASTING NOTES

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

White Wines BOURGOGNE BLANC This comes from two limestone-rich parcels, one in Marsannay and the other in Couchey. The soils are easydraining and the slopes are well-exposed, with plenty of surface pebbles. Bright apricot and pear fruit, ripe and phenolic, with orange blossom and fresh balancing acidity. Aged in large Stockinger cuves, concrete eggs and barrels. Jean-Louis bottled his white wines just before the 2019 harvest, in autumn 2019.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024 £195/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY BLANC This comes from a lieu-dit called Grasses Têtes, towards the south of Marsannay, one of the contenders for premier cru status once this is introduced, supposedly from the 2020 vintage. 87% Chardonnay, 13% Pinot Beurot (the Burgundian name for Pinot Gris). This has a pretty aromatic expression, with white pepper complementing delicate yellow floral notes and tangerine zest.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH

01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

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DOMAINE TRAPET

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Credit Jon Wyand

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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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Red Wines BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAINS A MINIMA

CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES LES MEIX FRINGUET

This is from a vineyard just outside the GevreyChambertin boundary, a blend of 50% Gamay and 50% Pinot Noir. The vines were planted in 1965 as two separate parcels by Louis and Jean Trapet, Jean-Louis’ grandfather and father respectively, in the lieu-dit Grasses Têtes.

‘A minima’ aims at purity with minimal intervention.

Peppery and with red and bitter cherry fruit on the nose, leading into a very ripely red fruited, immediate palate, with a notch more density than last year. Excellent early drinking, approachable style.

This is a 0.35 hectare holding, literally just to the north of the Gevrey boundary, almost a monopole. Apparently, ‘Meix’ means a garden alongside a house. Raspberry, bitter cherry and fruits of the forest on the nose. The palate has a notch more density than the previous wines and a spicy, sous bois aspect, finishing quite stridently. A characterful wine. No new oak: this is aged in 2-4 year old barrels.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2030 £280/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£180/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

BOURGOGNE ROUGE

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VILLAGES

This comes from a selection of parcels, including one in Marsannay and another in Gilly-lès-Citeaux alongside a holding of Christophe Roumier, which gives very small millerand berries. 40% whole bunch fermented. A very fresh incarnation of this wine in 2018, upbeat and with crunchy red cherry fruit. Perfumed and really attractive.

The Trapet family’s Gevrey holdings cover three hectares, with eight individual parcels dotted across various terroirs. Sweet blackberry fruit with tea leaf spice and peppery aromas. The palate is insinuatingly fine on the attack, building nicely in the mouth as flavours of ripe raspberry and exotic spice emerge. A pure-fruited, elegant, mid-weight wine – in many ways, the perfect example of what the domaine does so well. As Jean-Louis said, the wonderful ripeness of the berries encouraged him to do 60% whole cluster fermentation.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024 £215/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2030 £525/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE OSTREA

This is from four parcels, with 60% being represented by what will inevitably be ascended to premier cru status. Marsannay has a little more clay than GevreyChambertin, in general making for a more assertive, broader-boned style. There is a fabulous density and brightness of red berry fruit, turning darker hued on the palate, with supple tannins. A little exotic spice on the finish adds complexity.

Ostrea comprises two hectares and 50 rows, spread over four parcels in the north of Gevrey, towards Brochon. The oldest vines, having been planted just before the First World War in 1913, contribute a core of intense Pinot fruit.

There is more complexity and tannic definition here than the villages Gevrey, heralding a more age-worthy wine, with quite beautiful poise. Intensely red fruit, raspberry and red cherry fruit. Violet perfume lingers on the finish.

70% whole bunch fermentation, a notch more than in the previous wine, as befits its greater power.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2027 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2035 £650/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £335/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection.

14 - 16 A VERY GOOD TO EXCELLENT WINE 16 - 18 AN EXCELLENT TO OUTSTANDING WINE 18 - 20 AN OUTSTANDING TO LEGENDARY WINE Wines are judged within their peer group, e.g. villages, premiers crus, grands crus. A definitive score of a young wine is almost impossible.

We usually offer a spread (e.g. 14-16) that relates to a potential to achieve a higher mark. A ‘+’adds further to that potential.

A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes.

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GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE

CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A floral, attractively lifted nose of sweet spices and exotic tea leaf, counterbalancing the ripeness of this naturally warm site. The inherent power of the palate is tempered by the sappy whole bunch character, 60-70% of the grapes here having been vinified as whole bunches. An aromatic delight, rose petals and violet. The palate has fine, grippy tannins, with a beautiful balance of red and black berries. So refined, albeit with seemingly more phenolic matter than last year, pointing to a wine of great ageing potential.

The replanted ‘1937 plot’ of Chapelle-Chambertin is still awaiting a return to active duty, meaning around a third of production is currently ‘off-stream’. Sweet spices on the nose, with a bright, dense palate, nicely cushioned and hinting at the layers of development to come. 80% whole-bunch vinification – a little more than last year, as has been the trend here, in line with global warming as Jean-Louis says, in order to give more freshness and lift.

It works, allowing the terroir to shine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2040 £1,475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS PRIEUR

LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

Clos Prieur is very stony vineyard, the continuation of Mazy-Chambertin. This holding was purchased by the domaine in 1977. A lot of tannin and structure here – intensely mineral and powerful – with a gratifying fruitcoating to the tannins keeping it refined, aided by the 6070% whole-bunch vinification. Very pure raspberry and blueberry fruit, which is more to the fore than in Petite Chapelle at this stage. Delicious.

Bought in 1904 by Jean-Louis’ great-grandfather, in the year of his son’s birth, this was the first of the domaine’s grands crus. Latricières is fabulously sited on gravelly soils, close to a side valley (the Combe Grisard) through which air currents flow. This makes for a longer growing season than elsewhere, and this, in turn, can enhance intensity and complexity. The signature fine perfume of Latricières is this year complemented by tea leaf spice and bright raspberry and blackberry fruit. An assertive fruit-coating lends plushness and polish to the tannins.

Two thirds whole bunch fermented.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2026 – 2036 £595/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2040 £1,475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CAPITA

CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A 100% whole-bunch super-cuvée, made from three premier cru parcels: Combottes (next to Latricitères), Les Corbeaux (just south of the town) and Hergots/Ergot (part of Petite Chapelle). This was first made in 2005 and appears only when conditions permit. The name Capita comes from the Latin for ‘head’. Darkly fruited, with bramble and undergrowth, and an incisive tannic presence, which is set off beautifully by a zesty bitter orange lift. Complex and age worthy.

Bought in 1919, this is an extraordinary holding, comprised of three parcels. Down deep, there is limestone and marl, then fine clay and higher up, white marl. Jean-Louis vinified almost the entirety of his Chambertin in whole bunches this year. It is fabulously open, showing supple, translucently pure raspberry fruit, with Chambertin’s powerful tannic chassis beneath. The acidity works effortlessly with the rich flavours to give a sense of delicacy, almost nonchalance. An extraordinary wine, destined to be one of the greats of the domaine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2038 £645/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2045 £2,280/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £2,300/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

CONTACT US Our Locations

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