Domaine Leflaive 2018 vintage en primeur release

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2018 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR

“Congratulations are due to Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent for boldly ushering in a new era in Puligny-Montrachet.”

WILLIAM KELLEY January 2019

INTRODUCTION “Sometimes, nature is very generous.”

Pierre Vincent, Régisseur

When we tasted the 2018s together for the first time in October 2019, Pierre Vincent was as relaxed as I have ever seen him, describing the 2018 crop as “of fantastic quality” and “the biggest since 1982”. Modest to the core, but acutely aware of the calibre of the wines surrounding him in the cellar…

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As Brice de La Morandière says, the 2018 vintage was “a pleasant surprise, for its abundant quantity as well as its exceptionally high quality.” Surprises, whether good or bad, require you to be on your toes. In 2018, it was crucial to be proactive.

For example, the entire domaine was green harvested this year. By contrast, in 2017, surplus bunches were only removed from vines in Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne and Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières.

A quick look at the growing season... The winter of 201718 was moderately cold, with occasional sub-zero morning temperatures. Accompanied by high humidity, this regularly dusted the vines with what Brice calls “a beautiful white coating of snow”.

March was also cool, nature struggling to awaken. It finally jolted into consciousness in the warmth of early April. Within three weeks, the Puligny vineyards were adorned with a light green veil of cotton-covered buds, from which the first leaves emerged.

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The rains were plentiful in May and June, although a temporary respite allowed flowering to go through quickly and unscathed in early June. The water table was full at this point and the heat of the day did not allow any moisture to settle, protecting the nascent berries.

Late June onwards was hot: between 26th June and the end of August, temperatures regularly exceeded 30°C. Rain on 13th August served to refresh the soil and fatten the berries. Harvest began on 26th August, amid bright and relatively cool weather. Brice said that once the juice was in tank, the yields “surprised us, considering the scorching summer”.

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One thing has become apparent since Brice de La Morandière took the reins: Domaine Leflaive is determined to keep innovating. Since the 2014 vintage – the first that Brice oversaw – Diam technical corks and eProvenance® technology have been used to safeguard the condition of the wine.

Vast building works have also been undertaken. The renovation of the old cellars beneath the domaine’s historic building was completed shortly before the 2019 harvest. This was a complex two year process that has retained the architectural charm of the building whilst insulating the walls and ceilings and installing stateof-the-art air conditioning (the need for which will nonetheless be minimal). These cellars will house the domaine’s library which stretches back to the 1970s.

In addition, a new, larger cuverie is planned. The greater tank space will enable picking to happen in four days rather than the current average of seven. This will require a small army of 140 pickers, compared to 70 at present.

There are also some new wines this year! Firstly, a Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru which comes from a 0.17 hectare mid-slope plot in La Maltroie, made by the domaine for the first time in 2018. Indeed, this is so new that we will be offering it at a later date. Last year’s two new single-vineyard Mâcon-Verzé cuvées, Le Monté and Les Chênes, are this year joined by Mâcon-Igé, the village to the immediate north. This is a 0.8 hectare holding, from which around 6,000 bottles have been produced.

Another step towards the well-deserved recognition of the intricacies of the Mâconnais.

It is tempting to jump to conclusions about ‘warm’ vintages – the abundance of fruit hiding the terroir and so on – but nothing could be further from the case here. Alcohol levels are modest and acids are fresh and precise. Over the course of two extensive tastings at the domaine, in October and November 2019, I was won over by the mineral tension and finesse of these 2018s. Even that biggest of beasts, clay-heavy Bâtard-Montrachet, displayed an astonishing intricacy of structure and translucency of fruit. A vintage which speaks to the heart and the head: so easy to love, but made with the utmost care and attention. A new benchmark for Domaine Leflaive.

GUY SEDDON DECEMBER 2019

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Brice de La Morandière

VINEYARD HOLDINGS

MÂCONNAIS

Hectares

Years Planted

Mâcon-Verzé (Les Cassons, En Perret, Escolles, Les Muse)

12.05

1930 - 2010

Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes

3.43

1935 (0.45 ha); 1973 - 2002 (2.98 ha)

Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté

0.94

1964 - 1965

Mâcon-Igé

0.82

1986 - 1989

Bourgogne Blanc (Les Parties, Les Houlières and La Plante des Champs)

4.31

1979 - 2003

Puligny-Montrachet

4.70

1955 - 2003

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

0.17

2005 - 2006

Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d’Âne

1.26

1995 - 2004

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon

4.79

1959 - 1988

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières

1.60

1962 - 1999

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes

0.73

1963 - 1972

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

2.75

1957 - 1985

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

1.15

1958 - 1959

Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

1.72

1962 - 1989

Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

1.79

1955 - 1980

Le Montrachet Grand Cru

0.08

1960

VILLAGE & REGIONAL WINES

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PREMIER CRU VINEYARDS

GRAND CRU VINEYARDS

Please Note Please note these wines are sold on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only. Due to high demand outstripping available quantities, many of these wines are on allocation. We ask for a balanced order as it is simply not possible nor fair to other customers to give an allocation of just the grands crus for example. For further advice please speak to your usual salesperson or ring our Fine Wine Sales Team on 020 7265 2430.

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2018 TASTING NOTES Tasting notes by Adam Brett-Smith

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MÂCON-VERZÉ

MÂCON-VERZÉ LES CHÊNES

Last year we noted that this, ‘the least expensive fine wine in the world’ had gone plural with two – and now three – tiny plots – now being offered separately. This is helping to redefine both the specificity and quality of a massively underestimated part of Burgundy and also sadly means that an already small production of this ‘village’ wine now becomes even rarer despite the domaine’s judicious purchase of another few hectares. We will be doing a vertical tasting of each vintage going back to 2004 later next year to show just how good this wine is.

Just three hectares in size and lying about half a mile north-northwest of Le Monté, this has what I can only describe as a more Puligny (rather than Meursault-rich) quality and refinement. The nose is tightly perfumed, with shades of gold and white fruit, a drier more mineral palate than the Verzé but with a subtly rich concentration to the finish. Really stylish this wine.

Full yellow green colour. The nose is floral, with a zesty, lemony perfume and a latent buttery richness. The palate is delectably fresh, subtly rich, with clean, pure flavours and a supple, easy finish. A lovely Verzé.

£310/Case of 12 bottles, in bond UK £340/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2022/23 £275/Case of 12 bottles, in bond UK £305/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023

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MÂCON-VERZÉ LE MONTÉ

MÂCON-IGÉ

One hectare. The rarest of the single vineyards and the southernmost plot in Verzé. The nose is consequently weightier, with a floral rich perfume which reminded me (absurdly perhaps) of Puligny-Montrachet’s Clavoillon.

The palate is creamier than Les Chênes, with a sweet, supple half-richness but a balancing, light minerality to the finish.

This is offered for the very first time. Lying to the north of Verzé, it is the polar opposite of Le Monté in taste and offers a delectable contrast between the nose and the palate. The nose is Folatières-like, with sexy, silken fruit. The palate is perhaps the driest of the four wines, elegantly concentrated, beautifully fresh and full with an insinuating and surprising length. Quite a debut.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023

£320/Case of 12 bottles, in bond UK £350/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

£275/Case of 12 bottles, in bond UK £305/Case of 6 magnums, in bond UK

BOURGOGNE BLANC

MEURSAULT 1ER CRU SOUS LE DOS D’ÂNE

The smart buy, the pocket battleship of the domaine, about as far removed from a generic super tanker blend as you could imagine and at a modest price for an insider’s jewel of a wine…

This is another perfect wine to serve blind, a little like the Blagny Rouge was all those years ago. For the same reason – and perhaps not a great reflection on Corney & Barrow! – customers do not immediately associate the domaine with Meursault, so inextricably is it associated with Puligny…

Three very small plots, Les Houlières, Les Parties and La Plante des Champs, just over the Chagny/Beaune road (see map) form this micro-blend and do so rather beautifully in 2018. Full, yellow and white fruit nose. This is deceptive as the palate is deliciously taut with a lovely dry grip, a kick of acidity, perfect balance and a tender, sustained finish. Perfect to serve blind to fool your friends and confound your enemies.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2022 £255/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £285/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

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Planted to Chardonnay from Pinot Noir in 1995 and in a plot that is perfect for great Chardonnay – and imperfect for Pinot Noir – the vines are now a very nice age indeed.

The 2018 is a thinking hedonist’s delight with a buttery but refined fruit nose, racy even, with a supple, silken palate, a creamy minerality and an almost sensual finish.

“So Meursault, so Leflaive”, I scribbled in the margin. I liked this a lot.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £600/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £630/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU CLAVOILLON

Planted between 1955 and 2003, there are six small plots, totalling just 4.6 hectares that make up this ‘village’ wine and this is one of the loveliest I have tasted. The nose is super-refined and elegant, so Puligny, with hints of hazelnut and mineral light richness. The palate has just enough weight to seduce and balancing acidity to lift that weight beautifully, with fine length and elegance on the finish. A marker for a village wine.

The domaine owns 85% (but just five hectares) of this vineyard and the vines date back to 1959 with the younger ones planted in 1988. So, the vines are old, and under the tutelage of Brice de La Morandière and Pierre Vincent this vineyard, white fruited but hitherto black sheep has come of age as it were. The 2018 is really good, shrugging off the weight of the vintage to offer, yes, that hallmark white fruited perfume but with a super refined palate, creamy but taut with layered, supple flavours that roll across the mouth. There is a remarkable intricacy of insinuating elegance to the finish. The best Clavoillon to date.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £445/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £475/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023 £625/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £655/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU FOLATIÈRES

Ordering Whilst we do include an order form with this offer it is strongly advised, to avoid disappointment, that you call or email your order in. All contact details are at the end of the offer.

Pierre Vincent has fashioned a beautifully refined wine in 2018 to cloak the naturally seductive, flamboyantly silken quality of this vineyard in a nicely wound structure. The nose is characteristically sexy, with a nougat, hazelnut, biscuity perfume which is so attractive. The palate however dances very elegantly indeed and lifts this debauchery into something that is tensely structured, very pure and sustained to the finish. A sensual and intellectual Folatières. Rather rare really.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023 £1,065/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,095/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

“Through the plant, the whole organism is invigorated, as much by deep rooting as by the leaves that capture solar energy.”

FRANÇOIS BOUCHET, biodynamic advisor to Domaine Lef laive since 1989

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PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES COMBETTES

BIENVENUES-BÂTARDMONTRACHET GRAND CRU

The sword of Damocles that hangs over this beautiful, anciently vined plot – the oldest of the premiers crus and second oldest of all the domaine’s holdings – is, for another year, withheld. The wine produced in such tiny quantities is so good that each year the economic imperative to grub up these vines is rejected. And, once again, in 2018 you can see why.

“This is a big step up”, I wrote in the margin and so it is – not always apparent when making the transition from premier cru to grand cru in extreme youth. I also wrote that this was like a grownup Combettes – as much a reflection on the beauty of Combettes as the quality of this Bienvenues. The vines are also very old, which perhaps gives this wine so relaxed a style. The nose is creamily fruited, buttery yet restrained and subtle in perfume. The fruit is powerfully rich but effortlessly controlled in extraction, with dry, firm structure and a claw of minerality to match the concentration. The finish is profound and long.

Richly perfumed, almost honeyed, white fruit on the nose with a thread of high tensile austerity. The palate has a delectable silken weight and density, so calm and relaxed, but with a lightness of structure and super refinement (that word again) to match the concentration. Loved this wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024

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Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026

£1,215/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,245/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

£1,185/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £810/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK £1,690/Case of 1 jeroboam, in bond UK

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES PUCELLES

BÂTARD-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU

This vineyard, the apogee of the domaine’s premiers crus lies so close to the grands crus (immediately to the right of Bâtard and Bienvenues-Bâtard) that you would think, by some sort of osmotic process it would leach out a similar style. It doesn’t. Here is found a super taut and in youth, tight minerality. But this is more feminine to the masculinity of say Chevalier – well, it is called Pucelles after all. The 2018 harnesses the natural richness of the vintage quite effortlessly with what I can only describe as an ‘aerienne’, atmospheric perfume on the nose of super refined yellow and white fruit. The palate is literally mouthwatering, mineral-rich, subtly spicy, piercingly pure and with the merest nod at the delicate richness and concentration that will be so effortlessly deployed in a few years. A lovely Pucelles.

I call this wine the spiritual mate of Richebourg for its heart-on-sleeve flamboyance – all colour and flair and so it is in 2018. The wine is apparently simpler than Bienvenues but this is deceptive, it is merely more hedonistic, more giving. Biscuity, golden sweet fruit on the nose, richly perfumed but tense with it. That richness is more subtly deployed on the palate, due to the very fine tension and acidity of the structure. It is a marvel that Pierre Vincent teased out a thread of mineral austerity in this most seductive of vintages but it’s there and will carry the concentration – and this wine – into a lovely future. A fine, fine Bâtard.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2025

£1,295/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £885/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK £1,835/Case of 1 jeroboam, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026

£1,280/Case of 6 bottles, in bond UK £1,310/Case of 3 magnums, in bond UK £965/Case of 1 jeroboam, in bond UK

Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g.

16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU This tiny, 1.79 hectare plot lies just above Le Montrachet (see map). Here the soil is meaner, thinner and gives Chevalier a more masculine austerity, a perfect foil for the natural sweetness of 2018. You have to work hard on the nose because it is tightly wound, carapaced, with only flashes of golden fruit perfume. The palate is more relaxed, silken rich at first and then, fascinatingly, its latent mineral presence asserts itself in a flare of intricate acidity and tension on the finish which is extraordinarily long. A beautiful Chevalier.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £1,600/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,090/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK £2,245/Case of 1 jeroboam, in bond UK

MAP OF DOMAINE LEFLAIVE VINEYARD HOLDINGS Plan du Domaine

M C B B

Plan du Domaine 15

L L L L L L

G R ANDS CRUS 4 , 8 HA

Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet PREMIERS CRUS 10, 8 HA

Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières Puligny-Montrachet Le Clavoillon Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie Meursault Sous le Dos d’Âne G R ANDS CRUS 4 ,R8ANDS HA G CRUS 4 , 8 HA Montrachet

Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet PREMIERS CRUS 10, 8 HA PREMIERS CRUS 10, 8 HA Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles

Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles Combettes Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes Folatières Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières Le Clavoillon Puligny-Montrachet LeLa Clavoillon Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie Chassagne-Montrachet Meursault Sous le Dos d’La ÂneMaltroie Meursault Sous le Dos d’Âne PU LIG NY- MONTR ACHET VILL AG E 4 ,6LIG HANY- MONTR ACHET VILL AG E PU novembre 2016 4 ,6 HA Les Tremblots

Les Tremblots La Rue aux Vaches

L L L

novembre 2016

PU LIG NY- MONTR ACH E T VILL AG E 4 ,6 HA

Les Tremblots La Rue aux Vaches Les Brelances Les Grands Champs Les Nosroyes Les Reuchaux BOURGOGNE BLANC 4 HA

Les Parties Les Houlières La Plante des Champs

P P P P C M

RECOMMENDED DRINKING DATES We are regularly asked for more specific drinking dates for white Burgundies, in particular the great domaines.

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REVISED DRINKING DATES

2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

Chevalier-Montrachet

2010

2009

2012

2013

2012

2014

2017

Bâtard-Montrachet

2010

2009

2012

2011

2012

2013

2016

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

2010

2009

2012

2012

2012

2013

2016

Pucelles

2009

2009

2010

2011

2010

2012

2015

Folatières

2009

2009

2010

2010

2010

2011

2015

Combettes

2009

2009

2010

2010

2010

2012

2015

Clavoillon

2009

2007

2010

2009

2010

2011

2015

Puligny-Montrachet

2009

2006

2009

2009

2009

2010

2013

Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Âne

2009

2009

2010

2009

2009

2011

2013

Bourgogne Blanc

2007

2006

2009

2008

2008

2010

2013

For your interest and reference we have included our original recommendations made at the launch of the new vintages below.

ORIGINAL DRINKING DATES

2002

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

Chevalier-Montrachet

From 2008

From 2008

From 2011

2013-2019

2012-2016

2014-2017

2015-2018

Bâtard-Montrachet

From 2008

From 2007

From 2010

2012-2018

2012-2015

2013-2016

2013-2016

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet

From 2008

From 2008

From 2010

2012-2017

2012-2014

2012-2016

2013-2016

Pucelles

From 2007

From 2007

From 2009

2010-2015

2011-2013

2011-2015

2012-2015

Folatières

From 2005

From 2006

From 2008

2008-2013

2010-2011

2010-2013

2011-2013

Combettes

From 2006

From 2006

From 2008

2010-2015

2010-2012

2011-2014

2012-2014

Clavoillon

From 2005

From 2006

From 2007

2008-2012

2010-2011

2010-2012

2011-2014

Puligny-Montrachet

From 2005

From 2005

From 2007

2009-2012

2009-2010

2009-2012

2011-2013

Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Âne

From 2005

From 2005

From 2007

2009-2012

2009-2011

2010-2012

2011-2013

Bourgogne Blanc

From 2004

From 2005

From 2006

2007-2010

2008-2009

2009-2011

2010-2013

* Too early for revision

Here therefore, are specific recommendations of drinking dates for every recent vintage. Of course taste is an extremely personal thing and these dates are conservative, but having tasted and analysed these wines extensively over the last few years, we absolutely believe that opening these wines at the dates indicated will ensure maximum enjoyment.

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014*

2015*

2016*

2017*

2017

2018 - 2020

2019 - 2022

2019 - 2021

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2017

2018 - 2020

2019 - 2022

2019 - 2021

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2017

2018 - 2020

2019 - 2022

2019 - 2021

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2016

2015 - 2020

2019 - 2022

2019 - 2021

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2012-2016

2018

2018

2018

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2015

2019 - 2021

2018

2019 - 2020

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2015

2018 - 2019

2017

2017

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2013

2018

2017

2017

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2013

2018

2017

2018

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2011

2017

2016

2017

2018 - 2019

See below

See below

See below

See below

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

2016

2017

2013-2017

2017-2020

2018-2022

2017-2021

2019-2023

2018-2022

2019-2029

2020-2029

2021-2028

2013-2018

2016-2019

2017-2021

2017-2020

2018-2022

2016-2022

2017-2023

2018-2024

2019-2025

2013-2018

2016-2019

2017-2021

2017-2020

2018-2022

2018-2022

2019-2023

2020-2024

2020-2025

2013-2017

2015-2020

2016-2020

2016-2019

2017-2021

2017-2022

2018-2023

2019-2023

2021-2024

2012-2015

2015-2017

2014-2017

2016-2018

2016-2020

2017-2021

2017-2022

2018-2022

2019-2023

2013-2016

2013-2019

2015-2018

2016-2019

2017-2020

2017-2020+

2018-2023

2019-2023

2020-2024

2012-2016

2013-2017

2014-2016

2015-2017

2015-2019

2016-2021

2017-2022

2018-2022

2019-2023

2012-2016

2013-2017

2014-2016

2014-2017

2016-2019

2016-2021

2017-2022

2018-2022

2019-2022

2012-2016

2013-2016

2014-2016

2015-2018

2015-2019

2016-2021

2017-2022

2018-2022

2019-2022

2011-2014

2012-2015

2013-2015

2014-2017

2015-2018

2016-2020

2017-2021

2018-2020

2019-2021

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