Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé En Primeur

DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ 2018 VINTAGE EXCLUSIVE TO CORNEY & BARROW IN THE UNITED KINGDOM

“The 2018 vintage in four words?

Huge structure, but caring.”

FRANÇOIS MILLET, FEBRUARY 2020

DOMAINE COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ 4

As well as choice holdings in Bonnes-Mares and Les Amoureuses, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé owns around two thirds of the Musigny vineyard.

Jean-Luc Pépin and François Millet, October 2019

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You might say the names Musigny and Comte Georges de Vogüé are synonymous in the minds of Burgundy lovers.

Although the domaine is by no means the only producer of Musigny, it can reasonably claim to make the most complete representation of this cherished grand cru, by virtue of the sheer dominance of its holdings (it owns 7.12 hectares of the total 10.85).

Established in 1450, the domaine’s current owners are sisters Comtesse Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette. Their highly respected team comprises François Millet (Technical Director), Eric Bourgogne (Vineyard Manager) and Jean-Luc Pépin (Sales and Marketing Director). This impressive trio has a combined 90 years’ experience at the domaine.

The notes in this offer are based on two tastings from barrel at the domaine, in October 2019 and February 2020. When Graham Moss (C&B sales) and I visited last October, we had an enjoyable lunch with Jean-Luc Pépin, who we entertained with our attempts to blindtaste what proved to be a magnificent 1993 ChambolleMusigny. Firmly in the mature stage of development, it retained a core of sweet red berry fruit, showing how well even the ‘humblest’ bottling of the domaine ages.

Corney & Barrow has been the exclusive UK agent of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé since 2003. Of our 16 vintages, these 2018s are, quite simply, up there with the best.

GUY SEDDON March 2020

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THE LAST 570 YEARS Around 1450, the ancestor of Comte Georges de Vogüé, Jean Moisson, was first mentioned in the village of Chambolle-Musigny.

A wealthy Burgundian, Jean Moisson acquired vineyards and built the core of the current estate buildings, as well as the village’s church, just opposite the domaine. Several artworks in the church depict members of the Moisson family (pictured left).

18TH CENTURY: THE VOGÜÉ NAME APPEARS The Vogüé name was first recorded in Burgundy in 1766, when Catherine Bouhier de Versalieu married the fabulously named Cerice François Melchior de Vogüé, originally from the Ardèche (where there is still a commune named Vogüé).

Keeping the domaine in family ownership through the French Revolution of 1789 cannot have been easy. Certainly the domaine stands out as one of the few which managed this.

20TH CENTURY: COMTE GEORGES DE VOGÜÉ In 1925, Comte Georges de Vogüé inherited the vineyards from his father Comte Arthur de Vogüé, since when the domaine has been known as Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.

Comte Georges’ daughter, Elizabeth de Vogüé, married Baron Bertrand de Ladoucette. The couple had two daughters, Claire and Marie de Ladoucette, the current owners of the domaine.

Comte Georges de Vogüé died in 1987. In 2002, Claire and Marie de Ladoucette, following the death of their mother, inherited the estate and became co-managers of the domaine.

Winemaker François Millet has worked at the domaine since 1986. He was joined two years later by Commercial Director Jean-Luc Pépin and in 1996 by Vineyard Manager Eric Bourgogne.

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2018 VINTAGE NOTES Many thanks to Jean-Luc Pépin for this detailed overview of the 2018 growing season at the domaine.

January was mild and very humid, with temperatures 5°C above normal. By contrast, February was cold, with temperatures 3-7°C below normal. Spring showed its face in early March, before heavy rains, followed by a return to winter, with snow showers from the 18th.

bunches. Véraison (colour change) began on 11th July, two days ahead of 2017, confirming the precocity of the vintage.

The mid-point of véraison was reached on 27th July. As JeanLuc Pépin says, “You have to go back to 2006 and then to 1983 to experience such a hot July”.

April brought milder temperatures, although by this stage the growing season was late. Alongside the full water reserves, this briefly prompted comparisons with 2013.

However, temperatures then rose quickly, by the second half of the month reaching 8-10°C above average.

High temperatures came to an end on 8th August, with two stormy days. At this point the colour of the grape pips was observed to turn from green to brown; this took around one week. There were three episodes of rain showers during August, bringing the total precipitation to just 30mm; too low to make much difference to the parched soils.

In May, summer temperatures quickly set in, 7-9°C above seasonal norms. The first flowers appeared on 24th May and, as Jean-Luc Pépin writes, “We could smell the flowers on 26th May”. Flowering reached its mid-point on 28th29th May. From first flowers to first fruit set on the 29th, flowering happened in five days.

Unusually, June began with rain showers, the first 11 days seeing 108mm of precipitation. Weather conditions improved from the 13th with the return of high pressure. As in 2017, from the start of flowering to bunch closure took just three weeks. June ended with scorching heat, due to high pressure and a north-east wind.

Summer conditions continued in July, with a few scattered storms bringing total rainfall to 60mm for the month and ferocious heat at month-end causing sunburn on a few

By late August, the vineyards were in an excellent state of health: the sugars were rich and the pulp separated easily from the skin, releasing juices readily. A perfect time to begin picking!

Harvest started on 30th August and finished on 5th September, mid-morning. It took place under excellent conditions, with no rain and moderate warmth. Any substandard berries – those affected by downy mildew in early July or by sunburn in late July – were meticulously removed.

Jean-Luc Pépin summed 2018 up as an “atypical growing season” and a year in which “supporting natural acidity [was] preserved because of early picking”. Thanks to this, the domaine’s terroirs have been given the best possible chance to express their true character.

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2018 VINTAGE TASTING NOTES

MUSIGNY BLANC GRAND CRU

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU

Due to the Musigny Blanc being at a rather tricky stage of élevage during both of our visits, we did not actually get to taste it. Here, therefore, is Jean-Luc Pépin’s tasting note which he kindly emailed to us…

If the previous wine is almost a premier cru, this is a grand cru. However, being made from the young (1025 year-old) vines of Musigny, the domaine voluntarily declassifies it to premier cru status. There is a similar sucrosity of fruit here, but with a fine, flinty minerality, charged and salty, working in tandem with very fine, firm tannins. Summer red roses, pomegranate and raspberry on the palate provide a delightful counterpoint to the chiselled structure. A wine of clarity and definition, or “showing the naturalness of skin ripeness on its own”, as M. Millet put it. As the vines slowly mature, proportionally more are used for the Musigny, sadly leaving less and less of this much-loved wine.

Very nice freshness and minerality despite the dry and hot conditions of the vintage. A combination of sweet pear fruit and citrus and peach. Floral with white flowers, acacia and hawthorn. Nice concentration and balance, reflecting a terroir-driven vintage.

Recommended drinking from 2021 - 2031 £650/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 - 2032+ £650/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £445/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1ER CRU LES AMOUREUSES

This comes from two premiers crus vineyards – Les Baudes (0.13ha) and Les Fuées (0.15ha) – as well as from 1.8ha of villages vines, in Les Porlottes, Les Jutruots and La Taupe. These last three are clustered together, to the south of the village. Very deep ruby colour. Ripe, juicy, densely concentrated red berry fruit, the densest I can recall in this wine. Lots of matter, the very fine tannins nonetheless adding up to a substantial weight. François Millet mused, “The skin ripeness is enormous in this vintage.” In addition, 2018’s small millerand berries meant that the skin-to-juice ratio was very high. A premier cru in all but name…

What makes Les Amoureuses special? Aside from its unassailable status, primus inter pares of Chambolle premiers crus, it is nearly 100% limestone. Almost all of the domaine’s 0.56 hectares are in one parcel at the southern end of the vineyard (planted 1964), with a smaller plot to the north (planted 1974).

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 - 2032 £450/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £310/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

Beautifully open and aromatic. Soaring violet and rose petal perfume, black pepper, and beneath it all, pure raspberry fruit and struck-rock minerality. The palate is surprisingly dense, with a svelte sucrosity (Amoureuses can be weightless, but in 2018 its feet are planted firmly on the ground). Very fine, detailed tannins, but not without a certain refined muscularity.

Corney & Barrow Score 19 Recommended drinking from 2028 - 2035+ £535/Case of 1 bottle, in bond UK

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BONNES-MARES GRAND CRU

MUSIGNY VIEILLES VIGNES GRAND CRU

In the words of François Millet, “This takes you to the woods, the mountains.” I know exactly what he means (phew) – this is a wine of forest fruits, brambly and intense. The colour is deep, deep purple, in contrast to the ruby hue of the others. Violets, peonies and red cherries on the nose, more voluptuous. The palate is starker and more overtly grippy. This is a big wine (at the risk of sounding simplistic), whose tannins are beautifully extracted but which will nonetheless need patience. A teenager, with excess energy at the moment.

Interestingly, while most Burgundian winemakers stress their hands-off approach, M. Millet states, “This wine needs contact [i.e. punch-downs]… Were you to give this less contact, you would have a type of sadness, a lack of joy.”

As François Millet poured his 2018 Musigny from a pipette into our glasses, he remarked, “Nature is nature; you can’t choose what you see in the mountains, but I think it is much more interesting to see the peaks.” I couldn't think of a response, so I wrote this down.

Here, we are back to a deep ruby colour, not purple as in the Bonnes-Mares. A frisson of stony minerality on the nose. On the palate, the sweet raspberry fruit is translucent, allowing an immediate communion with the mineral bedrock beneath. Startling clarity of expression, with very fine, yet muscular tannins. This longest-lived of the domaine’s wines allows a glimpse of its future character at this very early stage. What a wine!

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+ Recommended drinking from 2032 - 2042+

Corney & Barrow Score 18++ Recommended drinking from 2026 - 2036+

£1,875/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £1,260/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

£1,250/Case of 3 bottles, in bond UK £845/Case of 1 magnum, in bond UK

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Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

cr u s

To Morey-Saint-Denis

LES BONNES MARES

Rou te d e

s gra nds

N

LES VÉROILLES

LES DRAZEY

LES LAVROTTES

LES FUÉES

LES FREMIÊRES

LES NOIROTS

LES FUÉES

LES GAMAIRES

LES BUSSIÈRES

LES BAUDES

2018

LES CRAS

To Dijon RN74

LES SENTIERS

LES HERBUES

LES CHARDANNES

AUX BEAUX LES BRUNS GROSEILLES

LES CRAS

LES ATHETS

AUX ECHANGES

LES CHATELOTS

AUX COMBOTTES

AUX CROIX LES MALADIÈRES

LES PLANTES LES CLOS

LES FEUSELOTTES DERNERES LE FOUR LES ECHÉZEAUX

LES JUTRUOTS

LES GOÉRIPPES

LES PORLOTTES LA TAUPE

LES CREUXBAISSANTS

LES DANGUERRINS

LES PAS DE CHAT LES CHARMES LES FOUCHÈRES

LES ARGILLERES

LES MOMBIERS

LES CLOS DE I’OME

LES CHARMES

LES BORNIQUES

LES MAI CARRÉES

LES SORDES

LES BARBILLÈRES LES CONDEMENNES LES NAZOIRES

LES CHABIOTS LES AMOUREUSES

LES MUSIGNY

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To Citeaux

2018 To Beaune LES PETITS MUSIGNY

LA TAUPE

To N uits-Saint-Georges

2018

LA COMBE D’ORVEAU

LA COMBE D’ORVEAU 500m

0

Vineyard Holdings 2018 Vintage

Average Age of Vines

Average Production (doz)

2018 Production (doz)

Yield (hectolitres per hectare)

Vineyard Holdings (hectares) 2018

Musigny Blanc Grand Cru

25 years

180

210

29.08

0.65

Chambolle-Musigny

40 years

500

505

21.75

2.09

including Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

62/53 years (Les Baudes/Les Fuées)

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

17 years

800

354

42.48

0.75

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

40 years

200

138

22.18

0.56

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

43 years

600

732

24.77

2.66

Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

46 years

850

1625

25.57

5.72

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THE ALLOCATION PROCESS We are often asked by customers for guidance on the quantities they should order.

All of the domaine’s wines are allocated. Our suggestion is that you simply order what you would ideally like to receive. To order, please use the form provided or call 020 7265 2430 (London) or 01875 321 921 (Edinburgh).

• The domaine’s and Corney & Barrow’s focus is on the private customer and as a consumer rather than a speculator.

• The domaine’s wines are bought on the clear understanding that they will be stored and delivered in the UK only.

• Should you wish to sell the wine in the future, do please offer Corney & Barrow first refusal as this will ensure the integrity of secondary market distribution, something which is of great concern to the domaine.

• Priority will be given to the domaine’s and Corney & Barrow’s best, most loyal and most regular customers.

• We will do our best to accommodate newer customers. To help in this, we have a range of older vintages in stock to help begin a collection.

• May we please have your order by Friday 3rd April.

• Allocations will be completed by Thursday 9th April. Confirmation of order will be through receipt of invoice and the wines will be delivered or put into your reserve on payment.

• As outlined, all orders are conditional upon UK storage only.

• May we please request that invoices are paid in full by Monday 11th May. In all fairness, we reserve the right to re-allocate your order to other customers on the waiting list if payment is not received by this time.

• Do please speak to our sales team, who will be delighted to help you further.

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RECOMMENDED DRINKING DATES We are regularly asked for more specific drinking dates for Burgundies, in particular from the great domaines.

Here, therefore, are specific recommendations on every vintage since and including 2003 when we took on UK representation for Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. For your interest and reference we have included our original recommendations made at the launch of the new vintages. Of course taste is an extremely personal thing, but having tasted and analysed these wines extensively over the last few years, we believe that opening them at the dates indicated will ensure maximum enjoyment.

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REVISED DRINKING DATES

* Musigny Blanc

ChambolleMusigny

ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru

ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

2003

Now

Now

Now

Now

Now

Now

2004

Now

Now

Now

Now

Now - 2021

See below

2005

Now

Now

Now

Now

Now - 2022

See below

2006

Now

Now

Now

See below

Now - 2022

See below

2007

Now

Now

Now

See below

See below

See below

2008

Now

Now

Now

Now - 2022

See below

See below

2009

Now

Now

See below

See below

See below

See below

2010

Now

Now - 2025

See below

See below

See below

See below

2011

Now - 2022

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2012

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2013

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2014

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2015

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2016

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

2017

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

See below

ORIGINAL DRINKING DATES

* Musigny Blanc

ChambolleMusigny

ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru

ChambolleMusigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses

Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru

Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

2003

From 2008

From 2009

Now - 2009

From 2010

From 2014

Now - 2015

2004

2010 - 2013

2009 - 2011

2011 - 2015

2013 - 2016

2015 - 2020

2017 - 2021

2005

2009 - 2015

2012 - 2015+

2012 - 2017+

2013 - 2018+

2015 - 2020+

2018 - 2025

2006

2009 - 2014

2011 - 2014

2011 - 2017

2013 - 2020

2015 - 2020+

2017 - 2025

2007

2011 - 2015

2010 - 2012

2013 - 2016+

2016 - 2025

2015 - 2025

2015 - 2025

2008

2012 - 2016

2014 - 2018

2016 - 2020

2018 - 2020

2017 - 2022

2020 - 2030

2009

2013 - 2020

2014 - 2020

2018 - 2025

2019 - 2025+

2022 - 2025

2022 - 2030+

2010

2015 - 2020+

2016 - 2024

2015 - 2028

2020 - 2025

2022 - 2030

2022 - 2032+

2011

2016 - 2021+

2017 - 2025

2016 - 2030

2020 - 2026

2023 - 2030+

2022 - 2033

2012

2017 - 2022

2018 - 2026

2018 - 2030

2021 - 2030

2020 - 2035

2024 - 2040

2013

2017 - 2021

2017 - 2025

2017 - 2027

2019 - 2028+

2020 - 2030+

2025 - 2035

2014

2017 - 2023

2018 - 2026

2018 - 2030

2019 - 2028+

2025 - 2035+

2016 - 2035+

2015

2018 - 2024

2019 - 2027+

2019 - 2030+

2020 - 2030+

2020 - 2036+

2027 - 2037+

2016

2018 - 2024

2021 - 2030

2022 - 2030+

2027 - 2035+

2030 - 2040

2030 - 2040+

2017

2019 - 2025

2022 - 2030

2023 - 2030+

2027 - 2034+

2025 - 2035+

2030 - 2040+

* Bourgogne Blanc pre 2015

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CONTACT US

LONDON 1 Thomas More Street London E1W 1YZ T +44 (0)20 7265 2400 sales@corneyandbarrow.com

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