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DOMAINE FR ANÃ‡OIS CARILLON 2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

"I was deeply struck by the attention to detail, especially in the vineyards." ANTONIO GALLONI

FRANÇOIS CARILLON

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

DOMAINE FR ANÇOIS CARILLON Although the world is temporarily on hold, these wonderful wines are a reminder of 2018’s vitality and the enjoyment which is waiting for us beyond this difficult time.

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

I was going to say that writing an introduction is not easy at the moment. In many ways though, at a time when deliveries are under threat and the clampdown becomes more intense, planning for future enjoyment is more comforting than ever. If squirrelling away a few cases of these brilliant wines for happier days eases the isolation, so much the better. White Burgundy does not come more classically delightful than this. As I write, Franรงois and his team are, thanks to special French government permits, working in the vines in an effort to maintain these high standards in the 2020 vintage. Corney & Barrow has supported these wines since their first vintage, in 2010. The show must go on.

GUY SEDDON April 2020

FRANÇOIS CARILLON

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

DOMAINE FR ANÇOIS CARILLON: THE ESSENTIALS François is the 16th generation of Carillons in Puligny-Montrachet. 6

The family has made wine in Puligny since the 16th century. Domaine François Carillon was established in the 2010 vintage, after François’ father retired and Domaine Louis Carillon was split between François and his brother Jacques. François started working with his father in 1988 (he was responsible for the vineyards). 2018 is the domaine’s 9th vintage – and our 9th year as appointed Hong Kong & Singapore agents. C&B is proud to have been Domaine François Carillon’s Hong Kong & Singapore agents since the beginning.

To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.hk

INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

Franรงois Carillon

FRANÇOIS CARILLON

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

THE VINEYARD Can you judge a winemaker by their car? If so, François’ choice of a Land Rover Defender gives him away as a vineyard man who is not afraid of getting his hands dirty. François’ experience with his father was gained in the vineyard. The domaine owns 6.5 hectares of vines and has access to more via long-term leases. These are managed in accordance with lutte intégrée principles – as naturally as possible, but with the option to treat the vines if

required. No weed-killers are used, just ploughing, either by horse or tractor. Production is controlled by a strict pruning regime, followed by de-budding, the aim being to have no more than eight bunches per vine.

VINEYARD HOLDINGS Bourgogne Chardonnay

VINE AGE IN 2018 (years)

SOIL

34 - 60

Clay

Bourgogne Aligoté

60+

Clay

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois

Pebbles

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien

Limestone, stony

Puligny-Montrachet

20 - 50

Clay-limestone

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains

Clay-limestone-pebbles

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières

Clay-limestone-pebbles

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes

Clay-limestone-pebbles

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières

Clay-limestone-pebbles

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean

Clay-limestone

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles

15 - 50+

Clay-limestone

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

THE CELLARS Find the church of Puligny-Montrachet and you will have found Domaine François Carillon. This handsome domaine and its cellars lie at the heart of the village of Puligny-Montrachet. François is so focused on the vineyard that he dismisses his work in the cellar as “traditional”, but there has been no lack of construction work in these cellars over the past several years and there are plans for more.

All wines undergo alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, where they remain for one year, followed by six months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling. The percentage of new oak, from the Tronçais and Alliers forests, is decreasing at the domaine and is now around 10% for villages wines and 15% for premiers crus. Bottling takes place during a favourable period in the lunar cycle.

FRANÃ‡OIS CARILLON

Adam Brett-Smith and Percy Weatherall inspect the domaine's vines.

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

THE 2018 VINTAGE The notes on the following page are based on an extensive tasting last October with Thomas Pascale, Chef de Cave since the 2011 vintage. The winter of 2017-18 was moderately cold, occasionally dipping below zero in the mornings. March was cool and started slowly. It awoke properly in the warmth of early April. Within three weeks, the Puligny vineyards were covered in a light green coating of cottoncovered buds, from which the first leaves emerged. Rain in May and June helpfully paused to allow a rapid flowering in early June. The water table was full at this point and the heat of the day did not allow any moisture to settle, protecting the nascent berries. Late June onwards was hot: between 26th June and the end of August, temperatures regularly exceeded 30°C. Rain on 13th August refreshed the soil and fattened the berries. Harvest took place under bright skies, with relatively cool temperatures. François’ description of harvest reveals what a busy, zig-zagging time of year this is... Picking started on 28th August with the warm Clos du Vieux Chateau. The team then moved on to three Puligny premiers crus - Perrièrres, Combettes and Folatières. Next, Chassagne-Montrachet, then back to Puligny villages, before Champs Gains and then up to St Aubin. After that, Enseignères, Chassagne villages and then the Bourgogne Chardonnay. Harvest finally finished on 9th September with Bourgogne Aliogté. Phew!

FRANÃ‡OIS CARILLON

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

2018 TASTING NOTES

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ

SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU LES PITANGERETS

This comes from Puligny-Montrachet and Corpeau, to the south. It is made from the superior clone Aligoté doré. Bright golden colour, with a vibrant nose of green apple and a seam of matchstick reduction. The palate has crisp acidity, with excellent definition and citric freshness. All vinified in barrel, for 11 months, with just 3% new oak this year. Tasted from tank, around a month before bottling.

Pitangerets is a lieu-dit in the south of the appellation, bordering Chassagne-Montrachet. The vines here are young: 12 years old. Really finely textured, with yellow fruit and notes of honeycomb and acacia, this is a nuanced, tactile wine, which is shot through with a citric tension. A handsomely mineral-driven chassis, an impressive wine in the making. No new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025

£145/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£415/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY

SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU MURGERS DES DENTS DE CHIEN

François’ Bourgogne Blanc comes from five hectares in total: 90% comes from two plots in Puligny-Montrachet and 10% is from near Mercurey. A very inviting nose, of broad stone-fruit, leading into a rich palate with perfectly judged toasty amplitude and a seam of salty minerality, very Puligny in character. All vinified in oak, of varying sizes, 10% of which is new oak. Of the two Bourgogne Chardonnays (see below), this is the more classical.

This vineyard overlooks the great Puligny grands crus and is just across the road from Les Champs Gains. The name refers to the vineyard’s stones being as sharp as dogs’ teeth. 2013 was Francois’ first vintage from this 0.67 hectare parcel. This has similarities to Champs Gains (see below), but it is riper and more fruit-driven, with less of the finely nuanced minerality. Lovely fleshy early drinking.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025

£195/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£445/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £455/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY LE VIEUX CLOS

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET

The first vintage of this was 2014. It is a selection of the best barrels of the regular Bourgogne Chardonnay above, plus the fruit of a new vineyard in Puligny-Montrachet. The nose is elegant, very pretty white flowers. Denser on the palate, with more assertive, ripe stone-fruit – white peach, with flashes of grapefruit. More flamboyant than the regular bottling above – don’t be afraid to drink this early. 15% new oak, all vinified in 228L barrels.

You could call this the flagship of the domaine. It is made from four hectares of vines, spread over eight lieux-dits: Derrière la Velle, Reuchaux, Corvée des Vignes, Levrons, Aubues, Tremblots, les Noyer Bret and les Rousselles. A fine, classically proportioned nose of clipped green citrus, white peach and a line of struck match flintiness. The palate is taut and nervy, very finely chiselled, with a bite of salinity on the finish adding definition, all lifted by fresh acidity. As classical as it gets, shapely and brilliant. 15% new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2025 £285/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £495/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £505/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

FRANÇOIS CARILLON

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET CLOS DU VIEUX CHÂTEAU MONOPOLE

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES FOLATIÈRES

Just behind the village of Puligny, this small monopole of 0.8 hectares is a warm site with deep clay-limestone soils. A ripe nose of white peach and struck match minerality, with a little cedary spice. The palate is open and inviting – this is all about the fruit, making for an attractively juicy, earlier drinking style. All vinified in 300L barrels, which is important for the freshness, according to Chef de Cave Thomas Pascale.

François has 0.4 hectares of Folatières, the most flamboyant of the Puligny premiers crus, planted with 45 year old vines. As Thomas said when we tasted in October, “the wine is sleeping”. It is true, only a glimpse of its potential was available at this early stage, but if you look closely, the intricate floral notes, yellow flowers and white pepper spice is all there, waiting to unfurl. This will be bottled in April, at the same time as the other Puligny premiers crus.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2025

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5++ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2029+

£525/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £825/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £290/CASE OF 1 JEROBOAM, IN BOND UK

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LES ENSEGNIÈRES

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES COMBETTES

Beneath Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Ensegnières is a village vineyard which can equal François’ premiers crus. Bright golden in colour, the nose is pure-fruited and immediate. Deceptively simple on the entry, the palate has lovely zesty citrus fruit, but with time in the mouth revealing a fine mineral layering. A lot of power beneath the surface, pointing to a long-lived wine. As usual, there was a lot of millerandage here (in part due to the 55 year old vines), making for a powerful, intense style of wine which will age fabulously.

The domaine’s 0.5 hectare Combettes holding was planted in 1992. This is a wine of restrained power, all existing beneath the surface at present, couched in a cool, poised citric framework, with flashes of quince, green melon and yellow fruits. All vinified in 350L barrels, with 20% new oak, which is totally integrated. Patience required, but this will be excellent. The finish is long and tapering.

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028+

£895/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2030

£905/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

£555/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES CHAMPS GAINS

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES PERRIÈRES

This is a steeply sloping two hectare plot, planted with 45 year old vines, from which around 12,000 bottles are made. Open and inviting already, showing ripe lemon and lime, white peach fruit and pink grapefruit, combined with a strong sense of stony mineral texture and fine definition. A honeyed intensity on the back-palate. Vinified half in large 300L barrels and half in standard 228L pièce. 20% new oak.

François has 0.5 hectares of Perrières, in two plots, one over 50 years old and the other planted in 1973. This tends to be a very taut, mineral-driven wine and this year is no exception. Fine oyster shell minerality on the nose, enhanced by restrained struck match reduction. The palate is wonderfully fine and linear, with intricate saline detailing. There is a layer of riper stone-fruit which just needs time to integrate 25% new oak. This also has a high proportion of small millerand berries, giving natural concentration.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2029 £695/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2030 £875/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £885/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES MACHERELLES

This comes from a 0.7 hectare parcel in Les Voillenots, on the Puligny side of the village. Ripe citrus, with yellow flower perfume on the nose. The palate is taut on the entry, with honeysuckle and acacia perfume. A nice textural bite to the mid-palate, whose tight citrus and pear fruit and fresh acidity point to good ageing potential. 15% new oak, which is very well integrated.

Another plot on the northern (Puligny) side of the village, from a similar terroir to Perrières in Puligny, according to François, at a similar position on the slope, close to the bedrock. In the words of Thomas Pascale, this is “the very best of the Chassagnes”. A very complete wine, of ripe yellow fruits, a touch of honey, yellow flowers and fine sea shell minerality. You can see that this comes from the same school as Perrières, but there is more fruit density here. Which you prefer is down to the individual but this is highly accomplished.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024+ £425/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028+ £680/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES CHENEVOTTES

BOURGOGNE ROUGE

This comes from a tiny 0.2 hectare parcel, planted in 2008, beside Macherelles, in the north of the appellation, near both Puligny and Saint-Aubin. The soil here is white rock, described by François as a little like Champs Gains. This is much more powerful than the Chassagne villages, with a strong sense of salty minerality, coming to a finely defined point. Picked 29th August (a whole week before the 2019). No new oak.

This comes from old vines located in Puligny-Montrachet, although being red, they come under the generic Bourgogne Rouge appellation. Firm ruby colour, with crunchy raspberry fruit on the nose and a sweet-fruited, pliant palate of pleasing density. 2018 is the second vintage of this wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027

Corney & Barrow Score 16+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024 £175/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£635/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU CLOS SAINT-JEAN

SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU ROUGE LES PITANGERETS

Clos Saint-Jean lies high on the slope, just beneath Chassagne’s barren Grande Montagne. This vineyard has the poorest soil of the three Chassagne-Montrachets. A little riper on the nose, with – by contrast – a very fine, driven palate of stony minerality and taut citrus fruit, with a high line of acidity. One for the longer term, impressive. No new oak this year.

Pitangerets sits opposite En Remilly, on the other side of the side valley which runs up into the hills above SaintAubin. A spicy, darkly berried nose, somewhere between raspberry and blackberry fruit. On the palate, firm, fruitcoated tannins provide structure, supporting without detracting from the juicy drinkability and fleshy berry fruit which is the essence of this wine. Hugely enjoyable early drinking.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £645/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £315/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

FRANÇOIS CARILLON

2018 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

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hongkong@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.