BURGUNDY 2018 VINTAGE, EN PRIMEUR
BURGUNDY
2
CHABLIS
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
THE C&B BURGUNDY FAMILY
CHABLIS 12 DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT 13
CÔTE DE NUITS 16 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 17 DOMAINE DES VAROILLES 18 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 20 DOMAINE STÉPHANE MAGNIEN 20 VOUGEOT 23 CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR 23 NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 24 DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN 25
CÔTE DE BEAUNE 28 BEAUNE 29 DOMAINE PIERRE LABET 29 POMMARD 30 DOMAINE COMTE ARMAND 30 DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU 31 VOLNAY 32 DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE 32 MEURSAULT 34 DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY 35 DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER 36 DOMAINE MATROT 38 DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT 40 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 42 DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 42 DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON 43 SAINT AUBIN 44 DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY 44 SANTENAY 48 DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN 48 MÂCONNAIS 50 DOMAINES LEFLAIVE 51
3
BURGUNDY
4
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
WELCOME ‌to our 2018 Burgundy release. An exciting time of year, coming hot on the heels of Christmas festivities and reminding us that even in these dark winter months, there is an abundance of vinous enjoyment to be planned. If you have rashly committed to dry January and are in need of some vicarious enjoyment, read on – this is a wonderful vintage, one of light and warmth, which we will get to know and no doubt love over the years to come.
5
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
VINTAGE OVERVIEW “The 2018 weather was perfect. The vines were splendid, with healthy foliage, no water stress and beautiful grapes.” Frédéric Lafarge, Domaine Michel Lafarge
Following a parched 2017 summer, autumn was very wet. As Olivier Lamy said, “it rained almost one day in two – we had our feet in water!” Unsurprisingly, this fully replenished the soil water reserves. January 2018 was mild; winter ‘proper’ started late, culminating in a cold snap in February.
6
Spring: The cool weather lasted until late March, meaning vine growth was slow. Early April sunshine finally ushered in spring and budbreak. Mid-April onwards was dry and increasingly warm, heralding a surge in vine growth. Very little frost damage, phew! Early May has become the danger zone for this (2016 and 2017 were badly hit) but 2018 largely escaped unscathed. However, the mildew pressure caused by warm, moist weather demanded vigilance and anti-fungal sprays (many of which are now organic, thankfully). Hail in Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet on 8th May fortunately did little damage. This was followed by several late spring thunderstorms. The first flowers appeared in mid-May on the Chardonnay. By month-end, flowering was already well underway and it generally went smoothly. Summer: Just after the grape bunches closed, two violent localised hailstorms struck southern NuitsSaint-Georges, on 3rd and 15th July.
Véraison (colour change) started in early July and lasted for nearly six weeks in places where temperatures were unusually high or water scarce, such as the Mâconnais and Chablis. From this point onwards, the character of the vintage began to reveal itself… 2018 was sunny: Depending on where the readings were taken, summer saw between 150 and 260 more sunshine hours than average. 2018 was warm: Temperatures were almost 2°C above average – warm but not scorching. The winter and spring water reserves tempered this, although younger vines with shallower roots suffered. 2018 was dry: August had just 20-30mm of rainfall, versus an average of 60mm. This made for thick skins and many small millerand berries, ensuring 2018 would be rich in polyphenols. April to September saw 285mm of rain, versus an average of 403mm. 2018 was (mostly) early: Potential alcohol levels were approaching desired levels by late August, but conditions were so good that some waited for greater phenolic maturity. As Vincent Dampt put it, “the crucial question was when to attack”. Some light rain and morning dews in early September loosened any lingering blockages in maturity.
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
7
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
8
For most, harvest took place in the first week of September, although some started in August, such as Domaine Matrot (24th – the earliest ever here), Domaine Leflaive (26th) and Domaine Javillier (30th).
the season is that, just for fun, Domaine Pierre Morey made a late harvest (sweet) Chardonnay from its Bourgogne Blanc parcels, picked on 25th October with no botrytis!
2018 was healthy: Many growers, such as Volnay’s Guillaume d’Angerville, commented that there was barely any need for grape selection on the sorting tables. The health of the berries meant that anything sub-standard could quite easily be eliminated in the vineyard. Perhaps the best example of the health of
A word on acidity: We assume warmer vintages will be lower in acidity. While this is true to an extent, it is not the whole picture. The heat of August did burn off some precious malic acid, especially where leaf cover was sparse. However, the spring rains had brought reserves of tartaric acid. The best 2018s also
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
9
BOURGOGNE
have a mineral tension which brings its own freshness to the party. Olivier Lamy also pointed out that white Chardonnay skins absorb less UV radiation than black Pinot Noir ones. The wines: The whites are juicy and, for the most part, with excellent definition and freshness. The reds are beautifully, richly pigmented, with expressive red berry aromas and succulent midpalates, without the excesses of fruit density seen in more prosaically “warm vintages�. 2018 is a
beguiling meeting of ripeness and precision, which deserves a place in every Burgundy collection.
GUY SEDDON January 2020
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
WINES OFFERED IN THIS RELEASE CHABLIS
See Page
Case size
£/Offer IB price per case
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT Chablis
14
12
£145
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
14
12
£225
Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys
14
12
£225
Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet
15
12
£225
Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet '350'
15
12
£310
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches Monopole
18
6
£255
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champonnet
18
6
£310
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Romanée Monopole
18
6
£365
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles Monopole
19
6
£350
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
19
6
£545
Bourgogne Chardonnay
26
12
£160
Côte de Nuits-Villages Blanc
26
12
£230
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Vieilles Vignes
26
12
£165
Côte de Nuits-Villages
26
12
£230
Côte de Nuits-Villages La Robignotte Monopole
26
12
£275
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
31
12
£120
Maranges 1er Cru Les Clos Roussots
31
12
£225
Volnay
31
12
£295
Pommard
31
12
£295
Pommard 1er Cru Les Arvelets
31
12
£445
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Cuvée des Forgets
36
6
£95
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Cuvée Oligocène
36
6
£125
Meursault Les Tillets
37
6
£235
Meursault Les Clousots
37
6
£275
Meursault Cuvée Tête de Murger
37
6
£365
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières
37
6
£170
CÔTE DE NUITS DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
10
DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN
CÔTE DE BEAUNE DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU
DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
CÔTE DE BEAUNE CONTINUED...
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
See Page
Case size
£/Offer IB price per case
DOMAINE MATROT Saint-Romain
38
12
£250
Meursault 1er Cru Blagny
38
12
£575
Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes
38
12
£625
Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
38
12
£775
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
38
12
£775
Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière
39
12
£250
Auxey-Duresses
39
12
£265
Meursault Rouge
39
12
£275
Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce sous le Bois
39
12
£525
Meursault Clos du Domaine
40
12
£315
Meursault 1er Cru Clos Richemont Monopole
40
12
£515
Saint-Aubin La Princée
46
6
£170
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Édouard
46
6
£225
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru en Rémilly
46
6
£295
Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge La Goujonne Vieilles Vignes
46
6
£195
Santenay 1er Cru Beauregard
49
6
£140
Santenay 1er Cru La Maladière
49
6
£130
Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau
49
6
£130
Pommard
49
6
£190
Mâcon-Verzé
51
12
£275
Mâcon-Verzé Les Chênes
51
12
£310
Mâcon-Verzé Le Monté
51
12
£320
Mâcon-Igé
51
12
£275
DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT
DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY
DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN
MÂCONNAIS DOMAINES LEFLAIVE
11
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
N
CHABLIS Located some 100 miles north of the Côte d’Or, Chablis sits apart from the rest of Burgundy, separated from the Côte d’Or by the Morvan Mountains. Geologically, it shares characteristics with the Loire and Champagne.
N
YONNE Chablis Auxerre
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT
CHABLIS & AUXERRE YONNE CÔTE D’ OR Chablis
12
Tonnerre
Auxerre
Historically, the region benefited from its proximity to Paris and being able to transport these popular wines by river to the capital. The advent of the railways had the opposite effect as more regions, with cheaper wines, became accessible.
Tonnerre
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT CÔTE DE NUITS
Nuits-Saint-Georges
CHABLIS & AUXERRE
CÔTE DE BEAUNE Beaune
CÔTE D’ OR
RN74
Dijon
A6
CÔTE CHALONNAISE
Châlon-sur-Saône
Nuits-Saint-Georges Saône-et-Loire
CÔTE DE NUITS
CÔTE DE BEAUNE Beaune
MÂCONNAIS
A6
Mâcon
CÔTE CHALONNAISE
Châlon-sur-Saône
Beaujeu Saône-et-Loire
BEAUJOLAIS
Today, being so far north, the main adversary is the climate, yet it is in fact this marginal location, along with the famous fossil-rich soils, which lie at the heart of Chablis’ quintessential flinty mineral style.
RN74
Dijon
A6
Villefranche-sur-Saône 0
50 km
MÂCONNAIS
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
A6
Mâcon
LYON
Beaujeu
BEAUJOLAIS Villefranche-sur-Saône 0
50 km
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
LYON
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT These 2018s are Vincent Dampt’s fourteenth vintage. We have represented the domaine as exclusive UK agent since Vincent established it, in the 2005 vintage. We are also now agents in Singapore. Chablis’ famous Kimmeridgian soils consist of calcareous clay, limestone and marlstone, with embedded marine fossils. Many attribute Chablis’ hallmark minerality to this link with the sea. The village and premiers crus bottlings see no oak, with the exception of 1er Cru Côte de Léchet ‘350’, named after the 350 litre barrels in which the wine is aged. Half of the barrels come from the François Frères cooperage and half from Seguin Moreau. Vincent’s wines will drink early but also repay cellaring brilliantly, with age becoming more silky in texture, with a caramelised, golden edge to the fruit.
13
VINCENT DAMPT
BURGUNDY
DOMAINE VINCENT DAMPT CONTINUED... CHABLIS This was the first wine we tasted at this domaine, on our very first visit of the 2005 vintage. A glimmer of hope of a new relationship dramatically lit up the faces of the assembled tasters. We left with a new exclusivity. Since then, if anything, the wines have simply gone from strength to strength and this 2018 vintage is exemplary, a tremendous ambassador for the region and for the domaine. The nose and palate show effortless poise, a balance of ripe orchard and stone fruit, fine acidity and seashell minerality – so lovely. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2026 £145/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS 1ER CRU VAILLONS
14
Vaillons is known for its generous fruit, power and poise, due to its favourable south-eastern aspect, as well as its Kimmeridgian soils. The vineyard lies southwest of Chablis, to the west of the Serein river. Vincent’s parcel is particularly rich in clay, with vines averaging over 35 years old. Pale white-gold, this is rounded and opulent, rich and ripe, with a profusion of orchard fruit, buttered, honeyed toast and compote of apples. This has a tension and an elegance, with a long, layered, floral finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2026 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS 1ER CRU LES LYS Les Lys is a small climat within Vaillons, planted around 60 years ago by Vincent’s grandfather. It faces northeast, towards the grands crus across the valley. Yields are very low and, with less afternoon sunlight, the grapes take longer to ripen. Often more reticent than Les Vaillons, this 2018 bucks the trend with an ebullient nose of rich apple compote, lemon drizzle cake and cream. A complex wine, with an even greater depth to come, combining underlying richness with a bracing mineral reserve. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2019-2025 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
CHABLIS 1ER CRU CÔTE DE LÉCHET This is a special site, again on the western side of the Serein river, just above the village of Milly. With its 38% gradient and 40 year old vines, the yields here are small. Exposure to morning sunshine allows the vines to benefit from luminosity, rather than heat, making for heightened mineral precision. This presents a very fine, noble nose of orchard fruits, white-fleshed stone fruits and melon, complemented by flashes of citrus zest and a taut mineral focus. Driven and focused, it is nonetheless a perfect charmer – bring on the seafood. Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2026 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CHABLIS 1ER CRU CÔTE DE LÉCHET ‘350’ A selection from the best vines of this vineyard, planted in 1964 by Vincent’s grandfather. Just as he separates Les Lys from the rest of Vaillons, of which it forms part, Vincent recognises that there are certain site-specific attributes here to be celebrated. Vincent produces two 350 litre barrels of this wine. Côte de Léchet’s precision and focus is retained, within a more exotic frame. Green apples and pears have given way to pineapple, papaya and melon, Danish pastries and vanilla – quite hedonistic, yet that Côte de Léchet focus prevails. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2019 – 2026 £310/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
15
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
CÔTE DE NUITS N
The Côte de Nuits forms the northern half of the Côte d’Or, running from the outskirts of Dijon to the villages of Prémeaux and Corgoloin, south of NuitsSaint-Georges.
16
The region is around 20 kilometres long and between 200 and 800 metres wide. It covers 3,600 hectares. Driving south from Dijon, looking to the right, you will see slopes adorned with vineyards, broken up periodically by barren, rocky outcrops. Brilliant green in summer, intense gold in autumn and starkly barren in winter. The Côte de Nuits, with few exceptions, is red wine country. It is, quite simply, home to some of the greatest Pinot Noirs in the world.
To Dijon
MARSANNAY-LA-CÔTE
MARSANNAY COUCHEY FIXIN
RN74
BROCHON
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN DOMAINE DES VAROILLES MOREY-SAINT-DENIS DOMAINE STÉPHANE MAGNIEN CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR
VOUGEOT FLAGEY-ÉCHÉZEAUX
VOSNE-ROMANÉE
RN74
CHAUX
VILLERS-LA-FAYE
NUITS-SAINT GEORGES
PRÉMEAUX
COMBLANCHIEN MAGNY-LES-VILLERS CORGOLOIN DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN To Beaune
0
1 km
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Gevrey-Chambertin is a large commune comprising 410 hectares, stretching from Brochon in the north, to Morey-Saint-Denis in the south. A mix of terroirs, with patches of limestone contributing to the complexity of the best Gevreys and to the great variety of styles. Only red wines may be labelled Gevrey-Chambertin.
17
DOMAINE VAROILLES
BURGUNDY | 2018 BURGUNDY | 2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE DES VAROILLES Domaine des Varoilles combines a number of spectacular vineyards from village to grand cru level. The arrival of Gilbert Hammel in 1990 marked a turning point for the domaine. Gilbert, of Swiss descent, has made Domaine des Varoilles a go-to producer of a succulent, rounded and supremely approachable style of Gevrey-Chambertin. The Varoilles holdings include two very special premiers crus monopoles, La Romanée and Clos des Varoilles. The 2018 harvest here started on 8th September, finishing on the 16th. Gilbert Hammel commented, “The sanitary state was perfect and the potential alcohol excellent, which allowed us to vinify the wines in optimal conditions.”
18
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET This is a 0.7 hectare plot which is even more stony than neighbouring Clos du Meix des Ouches. Tender and supple, this is brightly, sweetly fruited, showing dark berries and a nicely sculpted tannic chassis. There is 15% new oak here. Good wine, good value. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2029 £310/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS DU MEIX DES OUCHES, MONOPOLE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU LA ROMANÉE MONOPOLE
This small parcel, just one hectare of ‘village’ wine, is a monopole, solely owned by the domaine. The soil here resembles 1er Cru Champonnet, its neighbour, from which it is separated by a narrow road. Bright, dark fruits of the forest and a lovely dense structure, without being overbearing. Finishes briny and precise. There is 10% new oak here, as usual.
This, the highest of the domaine’s vineyards, just above the Clos des Varoilles, comprises one hectare of vines, with an average age of over 60 years. The soil is very shallow here – just 50cm – over a gravel and limestone bedrock, naturally low-yielding. As darkly-fruited as usual, this is redolent of winter berries and has a driving power, length and an elegant briny finish. 20% new oak in 2018.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026+ £255/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2032 £365/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS DES VAROILLES MONOPOLE
CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU
Just down the slope from La Romanée and neighbouring Lavaux St-Jacques, this six hectare vineyard of 45-50 year old vines produces a more red-fruited, aromatic style of wine. Upliftingly, ripely red-berried, with a backbone of crisp acidity, all framed by firmly sculpted tannins. The richness of the vintage really works here – as good as we had hoped. 25% new oak.
The domaine’s holding in Charmes is a single 0.8 hectare parcel, opposite Latricières-Chambertin, on a gentle slope. This delivers the upfront pleasure of Charmes, the dense blackberry fruit showing itself to excellent effect against the palate’s firm tannic chassis. A wine with long cellaring potential, although the loveliness of the fruit surely means this will drink early enough to satisfy the impatient. 50% new oak, from the Rousseau cooperage.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034+ £350/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037+ £545/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
19
GILBERT HAMMEL AND HARVESTERS, DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
BURGUNDY | 2018 BURGUNDY | 2018 VINTAGE
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS After Vougeot, Morey-Saint-Denis is the smallest village of the Côte de Nuits, with just 150 hectares of vines. Perhaps less well known than its neighbours, GevreyChambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, it displays some of the power of Gevrey, as well as a kinship with Bonnes-Mares, which starts just beyond the southern wall of Clos de Tart. The grands crus here are Clos des Lambrays, Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis and Clos de Tart. The abundance of walled vineyards echoes the self-contained nature of this alluring but enigmatic village.
DOMAINE STÉPHANE MAGNIEN
20
Located in Morey-Saint-Denis, the domaine produces village and premier cru wines in Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny as well as 2 grand crus wines, a Clos Saint-Denis and a Charmes-Chambertin. From the 4.5ha of own vineyard, Stéphane vinifies as well some Bourgogne Pinot Noir and a Passetoutgrain, with a good proportion of old clone Pinot Tordu. Stéphane is the 4th generation to run the domaine, fully biodynamic. It is a new exclusivity in Hong Kong & Singapore for Corney and Barrow and the wines will be released in a separate offer.
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
21
STÉPHANE MAGNIEN GILBERT HAMMEL AND HARVESTERS, DOMAINE DES VAROILLES
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
22
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR JEAN-LUC PÉPIN & FRANÇOIS MILLET
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
VOUGEOT Located in the village of Vougeot, the Clos de Vougeot is a historically important 50 hectare plot, which is also home to the famous Château du Clos de Vougeot. The Clos is bestowed with grand cru status in its entirety. Beneath this rather broad-brush approach to classification lie nuances of quality, meaning here even more than elsewhere in Burgundy, ‘grower is everything’.
FRANÇOIS AND ÉDOUARD LABET
23
CHÂTEAU DE LA TOUR
Château de la Tour, established in 1890, is the largest proprietor of the Clos de Vougeot. Family owned, it boasts six hectares of vines, some 12% of the appellation. The vines are in two parcels, close to the château building, which is one of only three buildings in the Clos de Vougeot. Average vine age is 50 years. Château de la Tour is run by François Labet, who, as of last year, has been joined by his son Edouard. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent for Château de la Tour in the UK and Singapore. The wines were released in December. Click here to see the offer.
EDOUARD LABET
BURGUNDY
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Nuits-Saint-Georges is the most southerly of the famous CĂ´te de Nuits appellations. It is also the town from which the CĂ´te de Nuits takes its name. As is the way in Burgundy, the town of Nuits appended the name of the best-known local vineyard, the premier cru Les SaintGeorges. Nuits-Saint-Georges has extremely varied soils and aspects, comprising a substantial 300 hectares of vines, 142 of which are premiers crus. This is an appellation without grands crus, perhaps surprisingly. Known for red wines, there are in fact seven hectares dedicated to white wine production.
24
GILLES JOURDAN
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN Gilles Jourdan established his eponymous domaine in 1998, having looked after the family holdings since 1970, whilst making wine at Bichot in Beaune. The domaine’s cellar is located in the quiet village of Corgoloin, on the eastern side of the Route Nationale. There are just five hectares, including a monopole, La Robignotte, which is a blue marl slope, adjacent to the small track which winds its way up into the Hautes-Côtes. Gilles’ chai is tiny. A central garage-like space is crammed with bottling equipment and a small tasting table, with a bottle cellar to one side and a barrel cellar to the other. Gilles has 40 pickers to call upon at harvest. He tends to harvest later than his neighbours, as demanded by his older, low production vines.
THE 2018 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE GILLES JOURDAN As mentioned, the domaine’s holdings were sadly hit by the July hail, although La Robignotte, Gilles’ top wine and a perennial C&B favourite, fortunately escaped. Harvest here was late, 25th September, growth having been slowed down as a result of the hail. Average yields were a low 27hl/ha in the regional wines and a better 35hl/ha on the hillside villages crus, which were less affected. The grapes were given a cool pre-fermentation maceration for the week of harvest.
25
BURGUNDY
BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY Gilles’ Bourgogne Chardonnay is an attractive meeting of ripe stone-fruit and fresh acidity, with a nicely textured mid-palate and a hint of flinty struck-match definition. At this price, it’s a no-brainer for straightforward early drinking. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2022 £160/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
|
2018 VINTAGE
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES LA ROBIGNOTTE MONOPOLE Gilles Jourdan is the sole owner of this jewel-like 0.96 hectare holding of blue marl. His first vintage of this wine was 1999. There are two parcels here, one over 70 years old, the other over 40. Very happily, this was one of the few of the domaine’s holdings which was not hit by the hail. Firm tannins and a dense coating of fruit make for a powerful, age-worthy wine this year. Kirsch, dark forest fruits and grippy tannins. This is a longstanding C&B favourite and a wine which consistently punches above its level. 25% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022-2030 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES BLANC This is a young vineyard – just over a decade old – planted mid-slope on limestone, with a little clay in the mix. A year maturing in oak (around a third new) gives a touch of richness to the ripe white peach fruit. The most assertive vintage I have seen of this wine, impressive. Corney & Barrow Score 16+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2022
26
£230/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES This is a blend of three sites, making for a good overview of Gilles’ style. There is a pleasing sucrosity of fruit here, dense forest fruits, with a fresh backbone of acidity and a raspberried richness lingering on the finish. This speaks of the ripeness of the 2018 summer and will make a joyous earlier drinker. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2021-2025 £230/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR VIEILLES VIGNES This is the second vintage that this wine has been made under the new Côte d’Or appellation (it was previously called Bourgogne Pinot Noir). It comes from a 2.5 hectare parcel of around 70 year old vines and is 10% wholebunch vinified in 2018, with ageing in two year old barrels. Crunchy red berry fruit, with a nice precision and fruitcoated tannins. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2024+ £165/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
27
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
CÔTE DE BEAUNE
28
The Côte de Beaune is almost twice the size of the Côte de Nuits, with around 6,000 hectares under vine. Whereas the Côte de Nuits is an elongated strip of east-facing slopes, the gradient rising steeply into the hills above, the Côte de Beaune has several side valleys, making for a broader shape on a map opposite.
To Nuits-Saint-Georges
PERNAND-VERGELESSES LADOIX ALOXE-CORTON
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE
CHOREYLÈS-BEAUNE
RN74
DOMAINE PIERRE LABET BEAUNE
DOMAINE COMTE ARMAND DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU POMMARD DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE SAINTROMAIN
VOLNAY
MONTHÉLIE AUXEY-DURESSES
Travelling north to south, the Côte de Beaune starts just before the city of Beaune itself, in the shape of the iconic Hill of Corton. This southern region is the more rugged and picturesque half of the Côte d’Or. Whilst the Côte de Nuits encroaches on suburbia at its northern extreme and marble quarries in the south, the Côte de Beaune feels like proper countryside. The appellation covers both white and red wines.
DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY
DOMAINE MATROT DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT MEURSAULT DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET LA ROCHEPOT SAINT-AUBIN DOMAINE LEFLAIVE DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY
RN74
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET CORPEAU DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN DEZIZE-LÈSMARANGES
CHAGNY SANTENAY REMIGNY
SAMPIGNYLÈS-MARANGES CHEILLY-LÈS-MARANGES
N
0
5 km
GRANDS CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
BEAUNE Beaune is a large appellation and, sharing its name with the Côte d’Or’s main city, tends to confuse people. Add to that the nearby appellations of Savigny-lès-Beaune and Chorey-lès-Beaune (the ‘lès’ signifying ‘close to’) and you can see Beaune’s unfortunate image problem. Luckily for us, however, this means that there are still some relative bargains here.
DOMAINE PIERRE LABET
29
DOMAINE PIERRE LABET In addition to overseeing Château de La Tour in the Clos de Vougeot, François Labet owns holdings in Beaune, Meursault and Gevrey-Chambertin. These wines are produced organically and although François has an operational base in Beaune, élevage takes place in Château de la Tour’s cellars in the Clos de Vougeot. Corney & Barrow represents these wines exclusively in the UK and Singapore. They were released in December – click here to see the offer.
FRANÇOIS LABET THIBAULT JACQUET
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
POMMARD Pommard used to be the fashionable sibling of nearby Volnay, its clay soils making for a more corporeal, muscular style than Volnay’s delicate, ephemeral wines. Changing tastes meant the tables have turned somewhat, but a handful of quality producers are making exciting wines. As a red wine enclave in white wine country, Pommard is underrated and well worth exploring.
30
DOMAINE DU COMTE ARMAND Domaine du Comte Armand had a line-up of prestigious winemakers in its history, to farm its Clos des Épeneaux, a walled premier cru monopole in Pommard of 5.3ha. Paul Zinetti follows after Benjamin Leroux and Pascal Marchand. The domaine is fully biodynamic and produces elegant and long lasting wines. In the last decade, the domaine purchased vineyards in Volnay and Auxey-Duresses where Paul is making some of the finest representation of these appellations. We will release the wines later in the campaign, to Hong Kong and Singapore market.
CLOS DES ÉPENOTS
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU
VOLNAY
Marc-Emmanuel and Olivier Cyrot are the fourth winemaking generation of this family domaine. They own six hectares of vines across Pommard, Volnay, Santenay and Maranges. The cellars of Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau are dug into the side of a rocky escarpment, beside Pommard 1er Cru les Arvelets, the final wine below. The wines are harvested by hand, de-stemmed and cold-macerated before fermentation.
This wine comes from four plots, two of which were purchased in 1995, sited in the middle of the appellation: Les Lurets and Les Famines. In 2010, two further plots were added, another in Les Lurets – this is a parcel divided into village and premier cru – and one in Les Paux Bois. Ripe, candied red berries, with supple tannins and a gentle grip. 100% destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £295/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
POMMARD
MARC-EMMANUEL CYROT
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
The domaine owns 3.5 hectares of Pommard in total. This village cuvée is a blend of 15 parcels on the Volnay side of Pommard. Very attractive raspberry perfume, with some good characterful Pommard tannic bite and structure. 25% new oak barrels. There is no punching-down here, to keep the tannin extraction gentle. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028 £295/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
31 This comes from five plots, which before the 1937 reclassification of Pommard lay within the appellation. This is vinified half in stainless steel, half in old oak barrels. Lush, very ripe raspberry fruit, juicy and bright. 100% destemmed. Bottled at the end of August 2019. Good value. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £120/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MARANGES 1ER CRU LES CLOS ROUSSOTS This half-hectare holding was inherited from MarcEmmanuel and Olivier’s mother. It is just over the border with Santenay – indeed, this plot is split between the two appellations. Ripe, sweet dark berries, with lots of matter. The skins were particularly thick this year, Marc reminded us. This was cold macerated, with very gentle punching down. 25% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 16 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £225/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
POMMARD 1ER CRU LES ARVELETS Les Arvelets is a 0.5 hectare south-facing sloping vineyard beside the domaine’s cuverie, whose red clay soils give high ripeness levels. Dense blackberry and forest fruits, rich in phenolics. The tannins are nicely fruit-coated, with a broad grip on the finish. Honest and immediate, this is the pinnacle of the line-up. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2030 £445/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
VOLNAY Silky, seductive, beguiling and ethereal. Volnay can be all of these things. Despite being surrounded by Chardonnay, this outpost of Pinot Noir has many parallels with the perfumed elegance of Chambolle-Musigny. A relatively small commune, Volnay lies between Pommard and Meursault. The vineyard slopes, facing east and south, descend steeply, before inclining more gently towards the road below - the photo opposite, of Marquis d’Angerville’s holdings, illustrates this well. The soils are marls, with a bedrock of limestone.
DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE This domaine, once part-owned by the Dukes of Burgundy, lies at the very heart of Volnay, both geographically and emotionally. Guillaume d’Angerville, the current Marquis, took over the domaine upon the death of his father Jacques in 2003. The d’Angerville Pinot Noir clones are unique, producing particularly small grapes. These are long-lived Volnays, of the very highest quality. The 2018s will be released in March 2020.
32
GUILLAUME D’ANGERVILLE
DOMAINE MARQUIS D’ANGERVILLE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
33
BURGUNDY
MEURSAULT The largest village of the Côte de Beaune, Meursault sits in the centre of the appellation, with Volnay to the north and Puligny-Montrachet to the south. Although we have come to expect volume and ‘butteriness’ from Meursault, there is in fact a lot of limestone in the soil and corresponding nervy tension in the wines. The best Meursaults need little makeup. Meursault is primarily Chardonnay country but there are islands of Pinot Noir, notably Les Santenots, which sits on the boundary with Volnay and can be labelled VolnaySantenots. As with Nuits-Saint-Georges, it is surprising that a village of this renown has no grands crus. Meursault has perhaps suffered historically by comparison with Puligny and Chassagne from not having ‘Montrachet’ appended to its name. Whatever the reason, the best Meursault premiers crus approach grand cru calibre.
34
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINE PIERRE MOREY We knew Pierre Morey during his two decades as Régisseur of Domaine Leflaive, from 1988 to 2008. He combined this high profile position with running the eponymous family domaine in Meursault. We have long wanted to work with these fabulous wines and finally secured our first allocation in the 2017 vintage. This was swiftly followed by our appointment as exclusive UK and Singapore agent from the 2018 vintage. Pierre remains a constant presence here but it is now his daughter, Anne Morey, who runs the domaine and its associated négociant operation, Morey-Blanc. The latter is only distinguishable in that these vines are not owned by the family – handling and ageing are identical, taking place in the domaine’s cellars. Winemaking is protective, with 100% destemming of the reds. The wines have an astonishing sense of purity and hit that sweet spot of fruit expression and terroir nuance. We are hugely proud of this newest addition to our Burgundy family. We will do a combined launch of the 2017s and 2018s shortly.
35
MEURSAULT TOWN HALL
BURGUNDY
DOMAINE PATRICK JAVILLIER Another domaine in the process of a generational handover, the face here is increasingly Patrick’s daughter Marion. Patrick took over from his father in 1974. He expanded the domaine’s holdings to today’s ten hectares. Marion is now responsible for vinifying the red wines and for the commercial aspects of the domaine, whilst her brother-in-law Pierre-Emmanuel has made the whites alongside Patrick since 2011. 80% of the domaine’s production is white wine and 20% red wine. Marion carried out a green harvest on the Pinot Noir in 2018. The white wine harvest stared on 30th August – relatively early, but then this is always among the first domaines to pick.
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR CUVÉE DES FORGETS Named after the Rue des Forges, where the domaine is based, this comes from a number of parcels on the Volnay side of Meursault, on clay-rich soil which delivers density. This is nicely textured, with bright orchard fruit and a gentle phenolic grip. Vibrant and juicy, a good early drinker and fantastic value. 22% new oak.
36
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £95/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR CUVÉE OLIGOCÈNE This is named after the Oligocène geological epoch, from which these limestone-rich plots date. The vines are on the Puligny (southern) side of the village, below Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Dessous. There is an additional level of tension and limestone nerviness here, which comes out in a flinty minerality and a hint of matchstick reduction. As always, excellent value. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024 £125/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
MEURSAULT LES TILLETS Les Tillets is a large vineyard, high on the slope, southwest of the village. The domaine has almost two hectares here. The rocky limestone soils are very poor, making for a mineral style of wine. A lick of new oak rounds out the white peach fruit nicely. Fine grip on the finish and a sense of dry extract. Lovely wine, proper traditional Meursault. 30% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £235/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT LES CLOUSOTS This comes from two sites: the deep clay soils of Les Clous and the limestone-rich Crotots. The latter, south of the village, is just beneath 1er Cru Les Poruzots. This is possibly a more complete wine than Tillets, having both the clay and limestone elements. Very nicely poised between power and nervy tension, with white peach fruit and a little pithy grapefruit. It is vinified in one year old oak – no need for makeup here. Around 2,400 bottles were made. Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2027 £275/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
37
MEURSAULT CUVÉE TÊTE DE MURGER This is another blend of two sites, vinified separately, Murger de Monthélie and Les Casse-Tête (literally “broken heads” [of the stones], limestone-rich). There is a real juiciness and electric energy here, white peach, grapefruit, pithy orange zest. All vinified in 1-2 year old oak. This will be even longer lived than Clousots, fabulous. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028+ £365/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 1ER CRU LES SERPENTIÈRES Serpentières is located at the beginning of the village of Savigny as you approach it from Beaune. The lieu-dit is rather unique in that it contains the village’s cemetery. There is more limestone than clay here, underscoring the tension of this wine. This has the plush raspberry fruit of Savigny in 2018, with an additional element of nervy tension. 30% new oak, 100% destemmed. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 MEURSAULT LES TILLETS
£170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE MATROT
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU CHARMES
Adèle and Elsa Matrot are now at the helm of this family owned estate, having taken over from their highly respected father Thierry Matrot, who had made the wines here for over three decades. Thierry is still very much present at the domaine, further evidence that Burgundian vignerons never actually retire… 2018 is Adèle and Elsa’s third vintage in charge.
This comes from four sites, totalling just over a hectare. 80% Charmes du Dessus (more mineral in style) and 20% Charmes du Dessous (broader in style). Tasted after the Blagny, this is more opulent on the nose, whilst the palate is steely and beautifully sculpted, with apple and quince. A rich, focused style. This spends 12 months in old oak and then 6 months in tank.
The domaine has been totally organic since 2000, making both reds and whites. In recent vintages it has been hit particularly hard by hail and frost, which makes the more normal yields this year particularly gratifyin. We tasted with Gaёl Fouré, chef de cave. The 2018s were Gaёl’s 25th vintage here – quite an achievement! He described the wines as having similarities with the warm vintages of 2003 and 1999. The domaine started picking on the 24th of August, the earliest ever!
Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £625/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU PERRIÈRES SAINT-ROMAIN
38
This comes from two plots in Saint-Romain and has been made by the Matrot family since the early 2000s. A nice coming-together of citric fruit, stony minerality and coffeed oak spice. The 25% new oak gives a broad, toasty aspect to the elemental mineral character of Saint-Romain.
This has the chiselled mineral structure of Perrières – quite bracing at present. That trademark textural finesse appears on the attack and then again on the finish, whilst the mid-palate is fleshed out with weightier apple, lime and pear fruit. This needs some cellaring to find its feet but will be really good. No new oak. Tasted from tonneau. Corney & Barrow Score 17++ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £775/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025 £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU BLAGNY The white soils here – limestone and light clay – contribute to a fine chalky texture. The attack is very fresh, with green citrus and white flowers, enhanced by crisp acidity. More flesh on the mid-palate, which reveals more generous pear fruit and a creamy weight. Tasted from tonneau. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £575/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES COMBETTES This is the smallest holding of the domaine: only five or six barrels are made. It was the first site to be harvested in 2018. Very open on the nose, it has the elegance and power of Combettes. The palate is taut and textured, white flowers, quince and a more exotic grapefruited element, with that innate power beneath the surface. Hazelnuts and delicate perfume on the finish. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2027 £775/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
MARANGES 1ER CRU LA FUSSIÈRE
MEURSAULT ROUGE
This consists of nearly two hectares of vines. Very bright, almost candied raspberry fruit here, with a touch of milk chocolate and coffee beans. Blackberry compote and figs on the palate, quite rich but framed by welldefined tannins, finishing crunchy and precise. 10 barrels were made.
Deep ruby colour, surprisingly intense. Dark, bitter cherries, kirsch, some cedar and peppery spice. On the palate, it is gratifyingly dense and immediate, with a touch of leather countering the admirable purity of strawberry and raspberry fruit. This is not a wine we buy every year, but when Joe Muller and I tasted it at the domaine, we were so impressed we decided to make an exception. Great surprise here, an over-performer.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2023 – 2028 £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
AUXEY-DURESSES This comes from one parcel near Les Meix Chaveaux and one higher up the steeply sloping side-valley, on the border with Saint-Romain. Again, this is a wine which really benefits from the 2018 fruit weight, which puts flesh on its bones. The tannins are muscular, but nicely extracted, making for a wine which will repay a few years’ cellaring. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5-17 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2026 £265/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
BLAGNY 1ER CRU LA PIÈCE SOUS LE BOIS From a plot just above Sous le Dos d’Âne (as cultivated most notably by Domaine Leflaive) and directly beneath the wood of Blagny, hence the name. This has intense forest fruits and dark cherries, with a touch of undergrowth and nutmeg – complex and spicy. The tannins are firm but fine and nicely fruit-coated, lending a suppleness which works well with the sucrosity. It bears the mark of the fleshy 2018 fruit, in a good way. 20% new oak. Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2031 £525/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
CELLARS AT DOMAINE MATROT
39
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT
MEURSAULT CLOS DU DOMAINE
Henri Darnat’s aim is to make wines which are both drinkable in youth and age-worthy. He is inquisitive and hugely energetic, always striving to innovate. Henri’s relationship with oak is illustrative of this studied avoidance of fashion. Having eliminated new oak barrels from his wines at the same time as he received organic certification over a decade ago, he is now experimenting once more. These wines will drink relatively early and will repay medium-term cellaring.
This is a blend of five parcels in Meursault. Expressive citrus fruit, with good salty mineral Meursault character, rocky limestone tension and a little phenolic crunch on the finish. Fermented and aged in around a third new oak, in 600 litre demi-muids. Bottled September 2019. Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2021-2025 £315/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU CLOS RICHEMONT MONOPOLE Located just above Santenots, on the border of Meursault and Volnay, in that curious zone of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Its neighbour to the north is Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets. This is a monopole, Henri being the only producer of Clos Richemont. Surprisingly linear and stonily mineral-driven, the 100% new large oak demimuids integrating very nicely. A full bodied wine, with a hint of oak tannin, great for food pairing. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2022-2027
40
£515/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
HENRI DARNAT
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
41
DOMAINE HENRI DARNAT
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET
DOMAINE LEFLAIVE
For many the pinnacle of white Burgundy, the name Puligny-Montrachet is universally recognised and a stamp of quality. Laser-like, linear, precise, steely, floral – these are the adjectives we hope to write when we taste the wines of Puligny. The village shares the Montrachet vineyard with its neighbour, Chassagne, entitling it to its cherished suffix. We work with three Puligny growers, who between them cover a broad spectrum of styles and sites.
Among the most famous white wine domaines of Burgundy, Domaine Leflaive is now run by Brice de La Morandière. The domaine dates back to 1717, with Joseph Leflaive (1870-1953) bringing the wines to the world’s attention. Following his death, his two sons Vincent and Jo took over, followed by Anne-Claude Leflaive, who assumed sole control in 1994, until her death in 2015. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent of Domaine Leflaive in the UK and Singapore. The Domaine Leflaive 2018s were among the first wines released, in December 2019. Click here to see the offer. Please also see Domaines Leflaive on page 75.
42
DOMAINE LEFLAIVE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
43
DOMAINE FRANÇOIS CARILLON François Carillon is the sixteenth generation of a winemaking family which traces its Burgundian roots back to 1520. Despite this rich heritage, the domaine in its current form was established in 2010, following the retirement of François’ father Louis Carillon. François and his brother Jacques decided to go their separate ways, as is so often the case due to the Napoleonic succession laws which divide inherited estates between siblings. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive UK agent of Domaine François Carillon. The 2018s will be released shortly.
FRANÇOIS CARILLON
BURGUNDY
SAINT-AUBIN Saint-Aubin lies in a side-valley in the hills to the west of Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, at over 300 metres above sea level. The road to Saint-Aubin is flanked by forest; the air feels fresher. The appellation dates from 1937. The soils are clay-heavy; white wines tend to come from the lighter clays, with high limestone content, with the reds thriving on the heavier brown clay soils. Previously seen as a source of value relative to adjoining Puligny and Chassagne, the best wines from Saint-Aubin now rival those from its more famous neighbours.
DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY It is not too much to say that Domaine Hubert Lamy put Saint-Aubin on the map and, in doing so, established itself among the top echelon of white wine domaines in Burgundy. We were delighted to add these brilliant wines to our roster in the small 2016 vintage, making the 2018s our third vintage release.
44
The domaine has 18.5 hectares of vines, 80% of which are planted to Chardonnay and 20% to Pinot Noir. Although the domaine is based in Saint-Aubin, it also has holdings in Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay. There are 20 appellations in total and around 110,000 bottles per year are produced. The Lamy family has been making wine in Saint-Aubin since 1640. However, it was not until 1973 that Hubert Lamy established the domaine. At the time of its founding, the estate consisted of around eight hectares of vines. The domaine blossomed during the 1990s, acquiring several new plots. Olivier Lamy, son of Hubert, joined the domaine in 1995. With understated assuredness, he has taken these wines to a new level and is without a doubt one of the leading winemakers of his generation.
|
2018 VINTAGE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
THE 2018 VINTAGE, IN THE WORDS OF OLIVIER LAMY
OLIVIER LAMY
Olivier Lamy described 2018 as a “really complex vintage”, backing this up with an impressive array of meteorological data. One fact which stuck in my mind was that there was 30% more light than normal in 2018, with the same amount of water. More than a warm vintage, 2018 was a vintage of light. Harvest started with the young vines on 22nd August and finished on 12th September. Some plots were harvested in 2, 3 or even 5 passages for maximum precision and depending on the age of the vine, soil type, rootstock and massal selection. The whites, with a beautiful level of maturity, have retained impressive acidity and balance for a ‘solar vintage’. There is between zero and 5% new oak. The reds are more influenced by the sun, with black fruits, high concentration and substantial tannins. 50% of whole bunches has brought finesse to the reds, as well as a floral side. The yields are at the level of 2013 or 2014 – relatively low, due to the low moisture levels.
CELLARS AT DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY
45
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY CONTINUED...
46
SAINT-AUBIN LA PRINCÉE
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU EN REMILLY
This is a “sous-lieu-dit”, in Olivier Lamy’s words. La Princée is in fact the domaine’s name for this blend of ten different plots covering three hectares around SaintAubin. The vines here were planted in 1985 and 2000. This has a flintier nose, with a touch of grapefruit, really precise and currently quite stark, as is the way with Olivier’s wines when tasted young. Given a chance to flesh out, this will be fabulous.
This is a blend of two parcels within En Remilly, one of the top sites in Saint-Aubin, located just above ChevalierMontrachet, where Puligny meets Chassagne. The vines here were planted by Hubert Lamy in the 1990s. Flinty, struck rock minerality to the fore, with a beguiling amplitude of citrus and stone-fruit on the mid-palate, before finishing super clipped and precise, leaving a sense of grippy dry extract. Great wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2025
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026
£170/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£295/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU DERRIÈRE CHEZ EDOUARD
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET ROUGE LA GOUJONNE VIEILLES VIGNES
This is a 1.68 hectare lieu-dit planted in 2000 at a density of 14,000 vines per hectare (the so-called Haute Densité cuvée is from a plot planted at 30,000 vines per hectare). Always the most linear of his whites, according to Olivier, this is quite beautifully textured, with Chablis-esque oyster shell minerality complementing the cool white peach and pear fruit. Excellent intensity on the palate, driving through to a long, delineated finish. So much energy here.
Red Chassagne-Montrachet harks back to the origins of the village. This comes from a 1.05 hectare holding in the centre of the appellation. Very bright, dense red cherry fruit, with a pleasing crunchiness of texture. 50% whole bunch vinification accentuates the freshness and brings a touch of exotic spice. Olivier produced 20% less red wine overall in 2018 than 2017, due to the dryness of the season.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2026 £225/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
Corney & Barrow Score 17+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2028 £195/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
47
SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
SANTENAY
DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN
Sitting at the southernmost tip of the Côte d’Or, Santenay’s plantings consist of around 90% black grapes and just 10% white. Its history dates back to pre-Roman times, when it was prized for its thermal waters, rich in mineral salts.
Domaine Justin Girardin is a 17 hectare estate, based in Santenay, with holdings stretching north to Pommard and Savigny.
The vineyards are marked out by the windmill which sits in the premier cru Beauregard vineyard. The village itself, home to little more than 1,000 inhabitants, has a pretty central square which always seems strangely deserted. With the steady march of prices further north in the Côte, this is an appellation which is fast establishing roots in the minds of Burgundy lovers.
For the fourth year now, we are very pleased to include these wines in this offer. We started working with Justin in the 2015 vintage, his inaugural solo year at the helm of this family domaine and the first vintage labelled under Justin’s own name. The Girardin family traces its Burgundian roots back to 1570, with Justin Girardin being the 13th generation. Following studies in Beaune and Bordeaux, plus a vintage in Tasmania, Justin returned to the domaine in 2010. He worked alongside his parents, Valérie and Jacques, who had bought the domaine from his uncle, Vincent Girardin, at the same time as Vincent shifted his focus to Meursault. We are offering our usual three premiers crus Santenays and a village Pommard. The latter is juicy and delectable, from an appellation that doesn’t usually abound in these traits – highly recommended. How to choose between the Santenays though? The two extremes are Clos Rousseau, for age-worthiness and substance, and Beauregard, for delicacy and approachability, with Maladière sitting between the two stylistically. The wines are 100% destemmed.
48
Justin said that 2018 was a dream vintage to make, which comes through in these wines’ absolute ease.
JUSTIN GIRARDIN
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
SANTENAY 1ER CRU BEAUREGARD
SANTENAY 1ER CRU CLOS ROUSSEAU
Beauregard, with its distinctive windmill (the Moulin de Santenay) in the vineyard, is the highest-lying of Justin Girardin’s Santenay holdings, around 50 metres above the others, on the Chassagne side of the appellation. The soils here are the poorest of the three sites. This tends to be the most immediately attractive, suited to earlier drinking. A deep ruby colour, with a very bright, attractive nose of forest fruits, leading into a pretty red berried palate. 22% new oak adds a little body. 13% abv.
Clos Rousseau has deeper, heavier clay soils and its vines’ roots have dug further, which seems to confer a greater profundity, concentration and age-worthiness on the resulting wine. Justin has almost one hectare here. The nose combines some of the pretty perfume of Beauregard with the weight and flinty minerality of Maladière. There is an additional layer of sucrosity and sweetly berried forest fruits on the palate, with fine grippy tannins. This needs some time to meld but will be fantastic. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022-2028
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2023-2030
£140/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£130/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SANTENAY 1ER CRU MALADIÈRE
POMMARD
The name Maladière derives from the nearby Maladière of Chagny, a hospital. This is a sunny, warm site and this tends to be spicier, with darker berries than Beauregard. It is a south-east facing vineyard, with deeper soils, located in the centre of the appellation. Justin has 0.7 hectares here. Great sucrosity of fruit, with an extra layer of power. The 2018 fruit weight suits Maladière’s dark fruited character down to the ground. 20% new oak. 13% abv.
The domaine’s Pommard is made from four parcels, two in Les Vignots, one in Les Cras and another in Les Combes. Surprisingly, gratifyingly red berried, with a delicious lift of cherry fruit and firm yet fine tannins. 25% new oak. Of his approach here, Justin says “There is great terroir here for sure – I don’t want to make a big, masculine style of Pommard”. To this end, this gets no pigeage, just regular pumping over, three times a day at the beginning of vinification. Really good wine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2023-2029
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2022-2028+
£130/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£190/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
49
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
N
MÂCONNAIS
50
Mâcon lies 45 minutes by autoroute to the south of Châlonsur-Saône. It is closer to Lyon than Beaune. For a style of white wine sometimes confused with Chablis, it is worth noting that there are 219 kilometres between the two cities, making for real differences in climate. In simple terms, there is greater fruit ripeness here and less piercing acidity.
N
CHÂLON-SUR-SAÔNE MÂCONNAIS
A6
DOMAINES LEFLAIVE MÂCON
Beaujeu
DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL BEAUJOLAIS
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE
Villefranche-sur-Saône
LYON CHÂLON-SUR-SAÔNE
The quality hierarchy in the Mâconnais starts with generic Mâcon, which may be red or white. Mâcon-Villages is a step up, applying to white wines only.
MÂCONNAIS 0
A6
DOMAINES LEFLAIVE
50 km
MÂCON
GRAND CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES Beaujeu DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL BEAUJOLAIS
DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE
Villefranche-sur-Saône
LYON
The top status, again for white wines only, is conferred on the 26 communes who may use their village name after Mâcon.
0
50 km
GRAND CRUS, PREMIERS CRUS, VILLAGES
BRICE DE LA MORANDIÈRE
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
DOMAINES LEFLAIVE
MÂCON-VERZÉ LES CHÊNES
Domaines Leflaive (note the ‘s’) is Domaine Leflaive’s operation in the Mâconnais. The domaine’s first vintage here, of Mâcon-Verzé, was in 2004.
Just three hectares in size and lying about half a mile north-northwest of Le Monté, this has what I can only describe as a more Puligny (rather than Meursault-rich) quality and refinement. The nose is tightly perfumed, with shades of gold and white fruit, a drier more mineral palate than the Verzé but with a subtly rich concentration to the finish. Really stylish this wine.
The original holdings totalled 9.3 hectares, consisting of five plots: Les Chênes, En Perret, Le Monté, Escolles and Les Muses. Last year saw two of these plots – Les Chênes and Le Monté – produced as single vineyard cuvées and this year, a new wine was introduced, from Mâcon-Igé, the village to the immediate north. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent for these wines in the UK and Singapore. The 2018 was released in the main Domaine Leflaive offer in December. Click here to see the offer.
Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023 £310/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £340/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
MÂCON-VERZÉ LE MONTÉ MÂCON-VERZÉ Last year we noted that this, ‘the least expensive fine wine in the world’ had gone plural with two – and now three – tiny plots – now being offered separately. This is helping to redefine both the specificity and quality of a massively underestimated part of Burgundy and also sadly means that an already small production of this ‘village’ wine now becomes even rarer despite the domaine’s judicious purchase of another few hectares. We will be doing a vertical tasting of each vintage going back to 2004 later next year to show just how good this wine is. Full yellow green colour. The nose is floral, with a zesty, lemony perfume and a latent buttery richness. The palate is delectably fresh, subtly rich, with clean, pure flavours and a supple, easy finish. A lovely Verzé. Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £305/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
One hectare. The rarest of the single vineyards and the southernmost plot in Verzé. The nose is consequently weightier, with a floral rich perfume which reminded me (absurdly perhaps) of Puligny-Montrachet’s Clavoillon. The palate is creamier than Les Chênes, with a sweet, supple half-richness but a balancing, light minerality to the finish. Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2023 £320/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £350/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
MÂCON-IGÉ This is offered for the very first time. Lying to the north of Verzé, it is the polar opposite of Le Monté in taste and offers a delectable contrast between the nose and the palate. The nose is Folatières-like, with sexy, silken fruit. The palate is perhaps the driest of the four wines, elegantly concentrated, beautifully fresh and full with an insinuating and surprising length. Quite a debut. Corney & Barrow Score 17-18 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £305/CASE OF 6 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
51
BURGUNDY
|
2018 VINTAGE
CONTACT US
Our Locations
SINGAPORE 101 Cecil Street, #16-07 Tong Eng Building Singapore, 069533 T +65 6221 8530 singapore@corneyandbarrow.com
Online
52
FACEBOOK @corneyandbarrowsg
INSTAGRAM @corneyandbarrowsg
www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg
To find out more visit www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg |
INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANTS SINCE 1780
www.corneyandbarrow.com.sg