Domaine Trapet

DOMAINE TR APET 2017 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

“Wine is one of the most civilised things in existence.”

JEAN-LOUIS TRAPET

DOMAINE TRAPET

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2017 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

DOMAINE TR APET Bringing Burgundy season to a close are the brilliant 2017s of Jean-Louis Trapet. These wines are more than worth the wait...

4 One of the many things I like about tasting with Jean-Louis is that he is always ready with Google Maps on his phone, showing you satellite images of each parcel of vines as you taste. The vines are everything and he knows them intimately.

Based in Gevrey-Chambertin, this is a domaine of the northern CĂ´te de Nuits. Aside from the famous grands and premiers crus, the domaine has some choice holdings towards Brochon and in Marsannay, which are well worth exploring (see in particular the excellent CĂ´te de Nuits-Villages, Les Meix Fringuet and the Marsannay Rouge). Across the range, these are beautifully, classically proportioned wines, majoring on sensitive texture, structure and longevity.

Corney & Barrow is the exclusive UK agent of Domaine Trapet, having imported the wines since the 1960s.

GUY SEDDON May 2019

To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

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DOMAINE TRAPET

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THE CELLARS AT DOMAINE TRAPET

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2017 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

THE 2017 GROWING SEASON The winter of 2016-17 was cool and sunny, with less rainfall than average. By the third week of March, buds were swollen throughout the Côte d’Or, heralding a rapid and early budbreak from 20th March, amid warm temperatures.

The first fortnight of April saw temperatures exceed 25°C, further hastening the development of the vines.

However, the weather changed dramatically at mid-month, temperatures dipping below zero.

Freezing temperatures visited the Côte d’Or on the nights of 27th and 29th April, although frost damage was avoided thanks to a remarkably coordinated effort, in which bales of hay were set alight by vignerons along the length of the Côte. The resulting haze of smoke prevented a repeat of 2016’s frost damage, whereby the sun’s rays had ‘burnt’ the frozen grapes as they lay encased in ice on the vine.

More clement weather returned in May and by month-end, leaves were unfurling and flowering was underway, lasting almost a week. June continued warm, with the first bunches achieving closure around the 20th, putting the season on a similar trajectory to 2009.

APPELLATION

Some much-needed rain fell in July, alleviating the hydric stress that was beginning to tighten its grip on some vines.

By mid-August, véraison (when black grapes acquire their colour, signalling the beginning of ripeness) was almost finished in the Côte d’Or, at which point temperatures decreased a notch, allowing for a smooth controlled descent into harvest during the final weeks of the season.

Finally, after short Burgundy vintages since 2009, and just as we were beginning to search for a new concept of ‘normal’, volumes produced are back to the ‘old normal’ in the Côte d’Or. 2017 looks set to be a good to very good year, in which it was key to have tempered the natural exuberance of the vines, following the short crop in 2016.

The whites have a particular verve and energy, not unlike 2014 or even 2010, whilst the reds have a sweet-fruited clarity and perfume which makes them a joy to taste young. We may end up drinking the reds from 2017 before those from 2015 and 2016, but this is by no means a quality assessment: there is ample ageing potential here and a lot of enjoyment for the years to come.

HECTARES

PLANTED

Chambertin

Grand Cru

1.90

1919*

Latricières-Chambertin

Grand Cru

0.75

1938*

Chapelle-Chambertin

Grand Cru

0.60

1945*

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur

Premier Cru

0.40

1965

Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Premier Cru

0.40

1965

Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea

Village

2.50

1913*

Gevrey-Chambertin

Village

3.00

1913*

Marsannay Rouge

Village

1.50

1979

Marsannay Blanc

Village

0.50

1979

Various

Bourgogne

3.85

Various

* Refers to original date of planting, although due to the age of these plots, a significant number of vines have been replanted.

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DOMAINE TRAPET

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2017 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

2017 TASTING NOTES

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White Wines BOURGOGNE BLANC This comes from two limestone-rich parcels, one in Marsannay and the other in Couchey. The soils are easydraining and the slopes are well-exposed, with plenty of surface pebbles. The whites were bottled just after the 2018 vintage, in autumn 2018. Gently pastried on the nose, with a fleshy, ripe palate and green melon notes.

Vinified in large Stockinger cuves.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2023 £195/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY BLANC This comes from a lieu-dit called Grasses Têtes – or “fatheads”, as Jean-Louis likes to call it – towards the south of the appellation. Sweet white peach and a real opulence of fruit, which took me aback. 85% Chardonnay, with 15% Pinot Beurot (the Burgundian name for Pinot Gris). This may well be classed as a premier cru from the 2020 vintage.

Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024+ £250/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

To Order LONDON

020 7265 2430 EDINBURGH

01875 321 921 sales@corneyandbarrow.com PLEASE NOTE These wines are released en primeur. Delivery dates to be confirmed. All prices are quoted in bond UK.

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2017 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

To find out more about Corney & Barrow visit www.corneyandbarrow.com

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

Red Wines

BOURGOGNE PASSETOUTGRAINS A MINIMA

CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES LES MEIX FRINGUET

This is from a vineyard just outside the Gevrey-Chambertin boundary, a blend of 50% Gamay and 50% Pinot Noir. The vines were planted in 1965, as two separate parcels, by Louis and Jean Trapet, Jean-Louis’ grandfather and father respectively, in the lieu-dit Grasses Têtes. ‘A minima’ aims at purity with minimal intervention. Peppery and with bitter cherry on the nose, leading into a ripely red fruited, crunchy, immediate palate. Excellent early drinking, approachable style.

This is a 0.35 hectare holding, just to the north of the Gevrey boundary, almost a monopole. Apparently, ‘Meix’ means a garden alongside a house. An attractive nose, with red and black cherries, fruits of the forest and crème de cassis. The palate has excellent richness and extract, with a saline seam. No new oak: this is aged in 2-4 year old barrels.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2028 £275/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£175/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

BOURGOGNE ROUGE

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN VILLAGES

This comes from a selection of parcels, including one in Marsannay and another in Gilly-lès-Citeaux alongside a holding of Christophe Roumier, which produces very small millerand berries. In Jean-Louis’ words, this is “un vin plus sérieux”. Absolutely – excellent density and structure, with a fabulous darkly berried ripeness – a Bourgogne Rouge with guts.

The Trapet family’s Gevrey holdings cover three hectares, with eight individual parcels dotted across various terroirs. This was still in barrel on its fine lees when tasted in November. Sweet blackberry fruit with a touch of rounded vanilla spice and a pleasing amplitude. A happy wine, which will benefit from a couple of years in bottle and will then shine.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2024

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2021 – 2030

£195/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£525/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

MARSANNAY ROUGE

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CUVÉE OSTREA

This is from four parcels, with 60% being represented by what will likely by upgraded to premier cru status in 2020. Marsannay has a little more clay than GevreyChambertin, in general making for a more assertive, broader-boned style. Here, that character mingles with a wonderful plumpness and brightness of red berry fruit.

Ostrea comprises two hectares and 50 rows, spread over four parcels in the north of Gevrey, towards Brochon. The oldest vines, having been planted just before the First World War in 1913, contribute really attractive intensity.

More complexity and tannic bite here than the villages Gevrey, perhaps at the cost of a little upfront prettiness, but it will be more than worth it in the long run.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2020 – 2026 £265/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2031 £625/CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK £325/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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Tasting Guide Our tasting notes provide full details but, at your request, we have also introduced a clear and simple marking system. We hope these guidelines assist you in your selection. For the benefit of simplicity, wines are scored out of 20. We will often use a range of scores (e.g. 16.5 to 17) to indicate the potential to achieve a higher mark. When a ‘+’ is shown it adds further to that potential. Wines from lesser vintages will, inevitably, show a lower overall score.

Wines are judged, in a very broad sense, against their peers. Why? Well, you cannot easily compare a Ford with an Aston Martin, other than they are both cars and have wheels. It is not that different with wine. A score is a summary only. The devil is in the detail, so please focus on the tasting notes and, as always, speak to our sales team.

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GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU PETITE CHAPELLE

CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A floral, attractively lifted nose of sweet spices and exotic tea leaf, counterbalancing the ripeness of this naturally warm site. The inherent power of the palate is tempered by the sappy whole-bunch character, half of the grapes here having been vinified as whole clusters. A deft juxtaposition of red and black berries, grip and pliancy.

The replanted 1937 plot of Chapelle-Chambertin is still awaiting a return to active duty, meaning around a third of production is currently ‘off-stream’. Sweet spices on the nose, with a bright, dense palate, nicely cushioned and hinting at the layers of development to come. 70% whole-bunch vinification – the proportion of this is increasing at the domaine, as Jean-Louis describes it, in line with global warming, in order to give more freshness and lift. Whatever the reason, it works – beautiful wine, with a long life ahead.

Corney & Barrow Score 17 Recommended drinking from 2024 – 2034 £575/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 18 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2038+ £1,345/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CLOS PRIEUR

LATRICIÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A very stony vineyard, the continuation of MazyChambertin. There is a lot of tannin and structure here – intensely mineral and powerful, with an expansive mid-palate and a long, long finish. The tannins are nicely fruit-coated, adding a touch of volume and suppleness to the structure. This was bottled early in 2019. It was approximately 50% whole-bunch vinified.

Bought in 1904 by Jean-Louis’ great-grandfather, in the year of his son’s birth, this was the first of the domaine’s grands crus. Latricières is fabulously sited on gravelly soils, close to a side valley (the Combe Grisard) through which air currents flow. This makes for a longer growing season than elsewhere, and this, in turn, can enhance intensity and complexity. Beautifully precise and finely delineated, with a wilder side this year – “a bit Wagner”, as Jean-Louis said when we tasted! 50% whole-bunch fermented in 2017.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2035 £575/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18+ Recommended drinking from 2025 – 2040 £1,345/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CAPITA

CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU

A 100% whole-bunch super-cuvée, made from three premier cru, parcels: Combottes (next to Latricières), Les Corbeaux (just south of the town) and Hergots/Ergot (part of Petite Chapelle). This was first made in 2005 and appears only when conditions permit. The name Capita comes from the Latin for ‘head’. As Jean-Louis has said, “when you do 100% whole bunch, that is a different world – more aérien”. Darkly fruited and upbeat, taking place in the air – hence “aérien” – this is a joyous wine, with ample gravitas at its core.

Bought in 1919, this is an extraordinary site. Down deep, there is limestone and marl, then fine clay and higher up, white marl. It is nearly 100% whole-bunch this year. This combines brilliantly the supple, approachable juicy fruit of the 2017 vintage, underpinned by a majestic tannic chassis. As ever, Chambertin effortlessly marries ripeness of fruit with powerful structure. This is still a baby, the malolactic fermentation having finished late this year, which Jean-Louis says is indicative of a long-ageing wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ Recommended drinking from 2022 – 2032

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18 Recommended drinking from 2027 – 2037+ £2,150/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£625/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK

£2,170/CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK

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2017 VINTAGE EN PRIMEUR

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INDEPENDENT WINE MERCHANT SINCE 1780

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